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The Plan of St. Gall

a study of the architecture & economy of & life in a paradigmatic Carolingian monastery
  
  
  
  
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Layout and equipment
  
  
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Layout and equipment

The principal piece of equipment in the Bake House is
the large oven (caminus) which is installed in the southern
aisle of the house directly opposite the entrance. The oven
has a diameter of 10 feet, and is serviced from the main
room of the bakery. This room is furnished with a continuous
course of tables or shelves running in a U-formation
around three of its four walls. The total linear length of
this shelf is 62½ feet. Its depth is 2½ feet. Thus it provides
an ample general work space that could have been used
variously for any number of purposes in the course of
breadmaking.

Next to the oven and in the same aisle with it there is
a trough (alueolus) 12½ feet long and 2½ feet wide. The
space under the lean-to at the east end of the house serves
as a "storage bin for flour" (repositio farinae); this area is
7½ feet wide and 30 feet long. The Plan shows no doors
giving access either to the flour bin or to the room with the
kneading trough—one of the few genuine oversights on
the Plan.[557]

In the axis of the center space, and almost equidistant
from their edges to the shelves that line the room on three
sides, are two rectangles that together form an area 6¼ feet
wide and 10 feet long. A similar but smaller object is found
in the corresponding space in the bakery of the House for
Distinguished Guests. In the bakery of the Hospice for
Pilgrims and Paupers, however, this space is occupied by
the kitchen stove[558] that seemingly displaces to the brew
house an oblong surface that probably corresponds to the
same pieces found in the center of the bakeries of the other
two houses. Unfortunately the Plan does not provide any
explanatory titles that would enable us to identify the
nature, construction, or function of the objects designated
by these rectangles. This is somewhat surprising because
similar objects situated in the outer aisles are clearly identified
with titles that not only explain their shape or form
(alueolus, trough) but also their function (locus conspergendi,
the place where the dough is mixed; and ineruendae
pastae locus,
the place where flour is mingled [with water].)

There is no doubt that the large rectangles in the side
aisles of the bake house were the troughs in which the
dough was first mixed. Good baking practice would require
that the yeast sponge be added to the dough at this beginning
stage, and it is quite possible that after being vigorously
mixed, it was likewise here that the dough was allowed to
enter its first stage of rising. The warmth of the enclosure
near the oven, already fired by a considerable heat, would
significantly aid the rising process in the large mass of
dough.

To convert the bulk of dough into a multitude of loaves
required a different setting: large surfaces sprinkled with
flour where the mass could be broken up, kneaded, divided
and weighed into uniform batches, and shaped into loaves.
All these purposes could have been served by the large
rectangular surfaces in the center of the bakery, or, if these
rectangles were actually troughs, the work could have been
done on the shelves that lined the central space on three
sides. After the loaves were shaped and before they were
placed in the oven for baking, they probably went through
a second stage of rising.[559]

The reconstruction of the equipment used in baking
poses no problem. We have already discussed the oven
together with other heating units shown on the Plan.[560]
Their form was established early and until very recent times
did not undergo any significant changes. The same can
also probably be said about bakers' troughs, a good medieval
example of which is shown in figure 388.

I am inclined to believe that in medieval ovens, the
firing and baking chamber were one and the same unit—as
they were still in the earlier decades of this century in the
bakeries of the German village where I spent my childhood.
There the ovens were heated by wood, as was done
in the Middle Ages. When the right temperature was
reached, the coals were raked out to make room for the
loaves, and the bread was baked as the oven temperature
entered its descending cycle.

 
[557]

Cf. our chapter on "Omissions and Oversights," I, 68.

[558]

See above, pp. 151-53.

[559]

While it may not be possible to reconstruct exactly the techniques
the monks used in baking, their methods can have varied but slightly
from those still in use today. For instance, bread baked in small batches
is commonly kneaded after the dough is mixed, but a vigorous mixing
can replace that initial kneading. It is not even necessary that vigorously
mixed dough rise twice, although allowing it to do so assures a finertextured
bread. Any basic variations in the monks' baking methods
probably arose from considerations due to the quantity of bread they
made, rather than from any special mysteries inherent in breadmaking.

[560]

See above, pp. 138-39.