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The Plan of St. Gall

a study of the architecture & economy of & life in a paradigmatic Carolingian monastery
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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DESIGN OF COOKING RANGE
  
  
  
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DESIGN OF COOKING RANGE

Völcker's reconstruction of a kitchen stove as an open
fireplace surmounted by an arched canopy with a pyramidal
smoke shaft overhead (fig. 217) is untenable.[191] The stove

p. 269

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[ILLUSTRATION]

234. BAYEUX TAPESTRY (1073-1083). LADING OF WILLIAM'S SHIPS

BAYEUX, CALVADOS, FRANCE. MUSÉE DE LA REINE MATHILDE

The episode is the embarkation of the Conqueror's army, after the construction of his invasion fleet in or near Dives-sur-Mer, a Norman
boat-building center some fourteen miles east of Caen. The scene is of supplies and arms being taken down to the ships and, in the detail shown
above, a cart with a great barrel of wine is portrayed, as well as a shipment of helmets and lances that are being drawn to the beach by
horsemen. The barrel is of the same shape, and appears to approximate the length of the
TUNNAE MINORES in the Monks' Cellar (Fig. 225).
Behind the cart walk two soldiers (not shown here), one carrying a huge animal skin and the other a small barrel; each a vessel for wine. The
inscription above the cart translates:

THESE MEN CARRY ARMS TO THE SHIPS, AND HERE THEY PULL A CART WITH WINE AND ARMS.
The tapestry, a long stretch of bleached linen embroidered in colored wools
(l. 231 feet, h. 20 inches, or 70.34 × 0.50 m.) was almost certainly
commissioned by William's half-brother Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, and Earl of Kent after 1067; he may have made a gift of it to Queen
Mathilde. It is a tendentious apologia of William's conquest of England justified in terms of feudal promise, perjury, and retribution. Its style
and the English spelling of place names disclose that it was made in England. For more detail see Gibbs-Smith, 1973, 4.


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[ILLUSTRATION]

PLAN OF ST. GALL: MONKS' CELLAR

COMPARATIVE DIAGRAMS

235.A

For the small barrels, with an average diameter of about 4.4 feet[193] and
an average length of about 11.5 feet, as scaled from the Plan, the volume
per barrel computes to about 175 cubic feet or about 4960 liters, rounded
off at 5000 liters.

For the large barrels, with an average diameter of about 9.6 feet[194] and
an average length of about 14.5 feet, as scaled from the Plan, the volume
per barrel computes to about 1060 cubic feet or about 30,000 liters.
The contents of one large barrel could be drained into, and exactly fill,
six of the nine small barrels.

It is interesting that for a monastery population of 300, consuming one
hemina of 0.2736 liters per day for 365 days, the total annual consumption
computes at 29,920 liters, rounded off at 30,000 liters, identical with
the contents of one large barrel.

235.B

Cellar practice requires draining the entire content of one large barrel
into smaller containers at the same time, since small daily withdrawals
from a large barrel would shortly cause acetification of its remaining
content.

The six small barrels would contain wine used during the year, each
small barrel holding two months' supply, a period that would not cause
serious deterioration of the contents.

If the vintage of any one year were held to mature for two subsequent
years, three large barrels would have been required of the five shown
on the Plan. The supply of wine to constantly top up these three, to
offset considerable loss by evaporation, could be provided by the
three remaining small barrels, after six of them had been filled by one
large barrel.

This would leave two large barrels for extra wine or beer storage.

235.C

If the wine allowance per person were doubled, it must be assumed that
the wine would be allowed to mature for only one year after the initial
vintage year.

Four large barrels would be required, since two barrels a year would be
consumed instead of one per year
(as in 235.B).

Two large barrels would be drained off during the year with six small
barrels filled every six months. This would leave two small barrels
to supply losses by evaporation, and one large and one small barrel
for beer storage.

CONCLUSION

The maximum capacity of the cellar of the Plan of St. Gall appears
to have been 0.54 liters, or two heminae of wine per day per person
with not more than one year of maturing after the year of vintage,
since two years of maturation would have required six large barrels.
The scheme shown in 235.C
(requiring four barrels for a production
cycle
) leaves two barrels for beer, or one barrel for beer and one for
a special reserve of wine.

The analysis given here, certainly conjectural, fits together with an
ease and flexibility not reconcilable with the notion that the drawing
on the Plan of the barrels was a draftsman's whimsical symbol for
"Here is the cellar."

See pages 292 through 305 for discussion of the cellar.

E.B.


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of the Kitchen of the Plan of St. Gall was supported, not
surmounted, by arches, as its explanatory title discloses in
unmistakable terms (fornax super arcus). Square arch-supported
stoves for cooking or firing are pictured on
fifteenth- and sixteenth-century woodcuts, such as the
"Kitchen with Cook and Maid" in the Kuchemaistrey,
published in Augsburg in 1507 (fig. 218),[195] or the "Alchemist's
Workshop" in Cajus Agricola's De re metallica,
published in Basel in 1556 (fig. 219).[196] The arches that
support the cooking range release sufficient space beneath
for the storage of wood and kindling. The heat is produced
in firing chambers built into the body of the stove.

Cooking ranges of this type were in use in Mediterranean
countries at very early times. Figure 220[197] reproduces a
sketch of a kitchen stove in the palace of Mari, Mesopotamia
(excavated in 1935-38), from the beginning of the
second millennium B.C. It was built of unbaked bricks and
consisted of five firing holes and five cooking units set up in
a single range. A square hearth on arches stood in the kitchen
of the House of the Vettii in Pompeii, but does not
appear to have been furnished with any firing chambers
(fig. 221).[198] In Roman family life much of the cooking could
of course be done on top of the stove over open charcoal
fires; in a monastic kitchen, which had to serve 120 monks
each session, this method would have been impracticable.

 
[191]

Völckers, 1949, 27.

[193]

Respectively about five feet and ten feet at the greatest diameter.

[194]

Respectively about five feet and ten feet at the greatest diameter.

[195]

After Schiedlausky, 1956, 22.

[196]

After Schmithals and Klemm, 1958, 21.

[197]

After Parrot, 1958, fig. 21.

[198]

After Mau, 1908, 274.