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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
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Saturday April 13th..
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Saturday April 13th..

Being disappointed in my observations of yesterday for
Longitude, I was unwilling to remain at the entrance of the
river another day for that purpose, and therefore determined
to set out early this morning; which we did accordingly; the
wind was in our favour after 9 A.M. and continued favourable
untill three 3. P. M. we therefore hoisted both the sails in the
White Perogue, consisting of a small squar sail, and spritsail,
which carried her at a pretty good gate, untill about 2 in the
afternoon when a suddon squall of wind struck us and turned
the perogue so much on the side as to allarm Sharbono who
was steering at the time, in this state of alarm he threw the
perogue with her side to the wind, when the spritsail gibing
was as near overseting the perogue as it was possible to have
missed. the wind however abating for an instant I ordered
Drewyer to the helm and the sails to be taken in, which was
instant[ly] executed and the perogue being steered before the
wind was agin plased in a state of security. this accedent was
very near costing us dearly. beleiving this vessell to be the
most steady and safe, we had embarked on board of it our
instruments, Papers, medicine and the most valuable part of
the merchandize which we had still in reserve as presents for
the Indians. we had also embarked on board ourselves, with
three men who could not swim and the squaw with the young
child, all of whom, had the perogue overset, would most probably
have perished, as the waves were high, and the perogue
upwards of 200 yards from the nearest shore; however we
fortunately escaped and pursued our journey under the square
sail, which shortly after the accident I directed to be again
hoisted. our party caught three beaver last evening; and the
French hunters 7. as there was much appearance of beaver
just above the entrance of the little Missouri these hunters
concluded to remain some days, we therefore left them without
the expectation of seeing them again. just above the entrance
of the little Missouri the great Missouri is upwards of a mile
in width, tho' immediately at the entrance of the former it is
not more than 200 yards wide and so shallow that the canoes
passed it with seting poles. at the distance of nine miles passed


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the mouth of a creek on the Stard. side which we called onion
creek from the quantity of wild onions which grow in the plains
on it's borders. Capt. Clark who was on shore informed me
that this creek was 16 yards wide a mile & a half above it's
entrance, discharges more water than creeks of it's size usually
do in this open country, and that there was not a stick of
timber of any discription to be seen on it's borders, or the
level plain country through which it passes. at the distance
of 10 Miles further we passed the mouth of a large creek, discharging
itself in the center of a deep bend. of this creek and
the neighbouring country, Capt. Clark who was on shore gave
me the following discription. "This creek I took to be a
small river from it's size, and the quantity of water which it
discharged; I ascended it 1 1/2 miles, and found it the discharge
of a pond or small lake, which had the appearance of having
formerly been the bed of the Missouri. several small streams
discharge themselves into this lake. the country on both sides
consists of beautifull level and elivated plains; asscending as
they recede from the Missouri; there were a great number
of Swan and gees in this lake and near it's borders I saw the
remains of 43, temperary Indian lodges, which I presume were
those of the Assinniboins who are now in the neighbourhood
of the British establishments on the Assinniboin river" This
lake and it's discharge we call goos Egg from the circumstance
of Capt. Clark shooting a goose while on her nest in the top
of a lofty cotton wood tree, from which we afterwards took one
egg. the wild gees frequently build their nests in this manner,
at least we have already found several in trees, nor have we as
yet seen any on the ground, or sand bars where I had supposed
from previous information that they most commonly deposited
their eggs. saw some Buffaloe and Elk at a distance to-day
but killed none of them. we found a number of carcases of
the Buffaloe lying along shore, which had been drowned by
falling through the ice in winter and lodged on shore by the
high water when the river broke up about the first of this
month. we saw also many tracks of the white bear of enormous
size, along the river shore and about the carcases of
the Buffaloe, on which I presume they feed. we have not

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as yet seen one of these anamals, tho' their tracks are so
abundant and recent. the men as well as ourselves are
anxious to meet with some of these bear. the Indians give a
very formidable account of the streng[t]h and ferocity of this
anamal, which they never dare to attack but in parties of six
eight or ten persons; and are even then frequently defeated
with the loss of one or more of their party. the savages attack
this anamal with their bows and arrows and the indifferent guns
with which the traders furnish them, with these they shoot
with such uncertainty and at so short a distance, that (unless
shot thro' head or heart wound not mortal
) they frequently mis
their aim & fall a sacrefice to the bear. two Minetaries were
killed during the last winter in an attack on a white bear. this
anamall is said more frequently to attack a man on meeting
with him, than to flee from him. When the Indians are about
to go in quest of the white bear, previous to their departure,
they paint themselves and perform all those supersticious rights
commonly observed when they are about to make war uppon
a neighbouring nation. O[b]served more bald eagles on this
part of the Missouri than we have previously seen. saw the
small hawk, frequently called the sparrow hawk, which is
common to most parts of the U. States. great quantities of
gees are seen feeding in the praries. saw a large flock of white
brant or gees with black wings pass up the river; there were
a number of gray brant with them; from their flight I presume
they proceed much further still to the N.W. we have
never been enabled yet to shoot one of these birds, and cannot
therefore determine whether the gray brant found with the
white, are their brude of the last year or whether they are the
same with the grey brant common to the Mississippi and lower
part of the Missouri. we killed 2 antelopes to-day which we
found swiming from the S. to the N. side of the river; they
were very poor. We encamped this evening on the Stard. shore
in a beautifull plain, elivated about 30 feet above the river.


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The courses and distances of this day are as follow.

             
miles. 
N . 18° W.  to a point of wood on the L. side, point on the Lard.
at 1 1/2 miles 
7 1/2 
N. 10. W.  to the upper point of a Low bluff on the Stad. pass a
creek on Stard. side. 
N. 45. W.  to a point of Woodland on Lard. side  4. 
N. 28. W.  to a point of Woodland Stard. side  3. 
S. 35. W.  to a point of Woodland on Std. side, passed a creek on
Stard. side near the commencement of this course
also, two points on the Lard. side, the one at a mile,
and the other 1/2 a mile further, also a large sand
bar in the river above the entrance of the creek 
4. 
23 1/2 

Note our encampment was one mile short of the extremity of the last
course.—