University of Virginia Library

[Clark:]

May 27th. Sunday 1804—

as we were pushing off this morning two Canoos Loaded
with fur &c came to from the Mahas [Mahar; Omaha—
Ed.] nation, [living 730 miles above on the Missouri] which
place they had left two months, at about 10 oClock 4 Cajaux[25]
or rafts loaded with furs and peltries came too, one from the
Paunees, [Paunees on the river Platt] the others from Grand
Osage, they informed nothing of Consequence, passed a
creek on the Lbd. Side called ash Creek 20 yds. Wide, passed
the upper point of a large Island on the Sbd. Side back of which
comes in three creeks one Called Otter Creek, her[e] the
man we left hunting came in we camped on a Willow Island
in the mouth of Gasconnade River George Shannon killed
a Deer this evening.

Course & Distance 27th. May.

         

N 71°. W.	3	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. an Isd.
S 82° W.	6	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. 2 Isd. a Creek
N 74° W.	1 1/2	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. up pt. big Isd. & 2 Creeks
S 70° W.	5	Ms. to pt. opsd. the Gasconnade R
	15 1/2

May 28th Munday 1804
Gasconnade

Rained hard all last night some thunder & lightning hard
Wind in the forepart of the night from the S W. Ruben Fields
killed a Deer Several hunters out to day. I measured the
river found the Gasconnade to be 157 yds. Wide and 19 foot
Deep the Course of this R. is S. 29° W, one of the hunters
fell in with 6 Inds. hunting, onloaded the large Perogue on
board of which was 8 french hands found many things wet
by their cearlessessness, put all the articles which was wet out
to Dry. this day so Cloudy that no observations could be
taken, the river begins to rise, examine the mens arms and
equapage, all in order

May 29th. Tuesday—

Rained last night, Cloudy morning 4 hunters sent out with
orders to return at 12 oClock

Took equal altitudes of Suns Lower limb found it 105° - 31′ - 45″

     

A M.	9 h - 25′ - 24″	P M	2 h - 35′ - 31″
	9 - 26 - 3		2 - 37 - 20
	9 - 27 - 27		2 - 38 - 52

Error of Sextion 8′. 45″ -

☉s Magnetic Azzamuth S. 83° W.

Time at place of obsvn. by bromtr. P. M. 4 h - 4 m - 44 s

Double altitude of ☉ L Limb—71° - 24′ - 00″

Cap Lewis observed Meridean altitude of ☉ U L. back observation
with the octant & artificeal horozen—gave for altitude on the
Limb 38°. 44′ - 00″.

octant error—2 - 0 - 0 +

had the Perogues loaded and all perpared to Set out at 4
oClock after finishing the observations & all things necessary
found that one of the hunters had not returned, we determined
to proceed on & leave one perogue to wate for him,
accordingly at half past four we set out and came on 4 miles
& camped on the Lbd. Side above a small Creek called Deer
Creek, Soon after we came too we heard several guns fire
down the river, we answered them by a Discharge of a Swivell
on the Bow.

Course to day & Distance 29th May

     

N. 54° W,	2	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd.
N. 78° W	2	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. Deer Creek
	4

May 30th Wednesday 1804

Rained all last night. Set out at 6 oClock after a heavy
shower, and proceeded on, passed a large Island a Creek
opposit on the St. Side, Just above a Cave Called Monbrun
[Montbrun's] Tavern & River, passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side
call Rush Creek at 4 miles several Showers of rain, the Currents
verry Swift, river rising fast. Passed Big Miry [Muddy]
River at 11 miles on the Starboard Side, at the lower point of
a Island, this River is about 50 yards Wide, Camped at the
mouth of a Creek on Lbd. Sd. of abt. 15 yds.. Wide Called Grinestone
Creek, opposit the head of a Isd. and the mouth of Little
Mirey [Muddy] River, on the St. Side, a heavy wind accompanied
with rain & hail we made 14 miles to day, the river
Continud to rise, the Country on each Side appear full of
Water.

Course & Distance of May 30th..

             

West	2	M s. to a pt. L. Sd. opsd. a Cave & pt. Isd.
S 80° W.	2	Ms. to a pt. on L. Sd. psd. Isd. & rush Creek
S 78° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on L. Sd. psd. a Wil. Isd.
S 66° W	4	Ms. to a pt. on Lbd. Sd. opsd. Miry R: & Isd.
S 48° W	6	Ms. to a pt. on St. Sd. opsd. som sm: Isds.. Psd.
		a creek 2 ms. Swift
	17	say 17 mile

May 31st Thursday 1804—

rained the greater part of last night, the wind from the West
raised and blew with great force untill 5 oClock p. m. which
obliged us to lay by a cajaux of Bear Skins and pelteries came
down from the Grand Osarge, one french man, one Indian,
and a squaw, they had letters from the man Mr. Choteau Sent
to that part of the Osarge nation settled on Arkansa River

mentioning that his letter[26] was commited to the flaims, the
Inds. not believing that the Americans had possession of the
Countrey they disregard'ed St. Louis & their Supplies &c.
Several rats of Considerable Size was Caught in the woods to
day. Capt Lewis went out to the woods & found many curious
Plant & Srubs, one Deer killed this evening.

June 1st 1804 Friday—

Set out early a fair morning Passed the mouth Bear Creek
25 yds. Wide at 6 Miles, Several Small Islands in the river
the wind a head from the West the current exceedingly rapid
Came to at the point of the Osarges River on the Labd Side
of Missouris this Osages river verry high, [we] falled all
the Trees in the point to make observations Set up untill
12 oClock taken observation this night—

Course & Distance June 1st

       

S. 49° W -	4	ms. to pt. Isd. psd. Little Muddy river on Lbd. Sd. 30 yds. wid
S 45° W -	6	ms. to Isd. psd. Bear Creek L. Sd. 20 yd. Wid.
S. 39 W.	3	ms. to Pt. of Osage River
	13

June 2nd Satturday

Cap Lewis Took the Time & Distance of ☉s & Moons
nearest limbs, the Sun East—and Meridean altitude of Suns
U. L. with Octant, back observation gave for altitude 37°—
28′–00″.

Errors of Octant 2°–00′–00″ +. made Several other
observations. I made an angle for the Wedth of the two
rivers. The Missourie from the Point to the N. Side is 875
yards wide the Osage River from the point to the S. E.
Side is 397 yards Wide, the destance between the two rivers
at the pt. of high Land (100 foot above the bottom) and 80
poles up the Missouris from the point is 40 poles, on the
top of this high land under which is a limestone rock two
mouns or graves are raised. from this pt. which comds (commands)

both rivers I had a delightfull prospect of the Missouris
up and down, also the Osage R. up.[27]

George Drewyer & John Shields who we had sent with the
horses by Land on the N. Side joined us this evening much
worsted, they being absent Seven Days depending on their
gun, the greater part of the time rain, they were obliged
to raft or Swim many Creeks, those men gave a flattering
account of of the Countrey Commencing below the first hill
on the N Side and extend'g Parrelal with the river for 30 or
40 Ms. The Two Muddy rivers passing thro. & som fine
Springs & Streems our hunters kill several Deer to day,
Some Small licks on the SE of the Osage River.

June 3rd Sunday 1804—

The forepart of the day fair Took Meridional altitude of
☉s U. L. with the Octant and glass Horreson adjusted back
observation. The instrement gave 38°–2′–00″ it was Cloudy
and the Suns disk much obscured and cannot be Depended on.

We made other Observations in the evening after the return
of Capt. Lewis from a walk of three or four ms. round. We
Set out at 5 oClock P. M. proceeded on five miles to the
mouth of a Creek on the L. S. 20 yds.. wide Called Murow,[28]
passed a Creek at 3 ms. which I call Cupbord Creek as it
mouths above a rock of that appearance. Several Deer killed
to day. at the mouth of the Murow Creek I saw much sign
of War parties of Inds. haveing crossed from the mouth of this
Creek. I have a bad cold with a Sore throat. near West
5 Miles

June 4th Monday 1804—

a fair day three men out on the right flank passed a large
Island on the.St. Side called Seeder Island, this Isd. has a great
Deel of Ceeder on it, passed a Small Creek at 1 ml. 15 yd.
Wide which we named Nightingale Creek from a Bird of that
discription which Sang for us all last night, and is the first

of the Kind I ever heard.[29] passed the mouth of Seeder Creek
at 7 Ms. on the S. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide above Some Small
Isds passed a Creek on the L. S. abt. 15 yds. wide, Mast [Mast]
Creek, here the Serjt. at the helm run under a bending Tree
& broke the Mast, Some delightfull Land, with a jentle
assent about this Creek, well timbered, Oake, Ash, Walnut
&c. &c. passed, wind N W. by W. passed a small creek
called Zancare C on the L. S: at this last point I got out
and walked on the L. S.d thro a rush bottom for 1 Mile & a
Short Distance thro: Nettles as high as my brest assended a
hill of about 170 foot to a place where the french report that
Lead ore has been found, I saw no Mineral of that description.
Cap Lewis camped imediately under this hill,[30] to wate which
gave me Some time to examine the hill, on the top is a
mound of about 6 foot high, and about 100 acres of land which
the large timber is Dead in Decending about 50 foot a projecting
lime stone rock under Which is a Cave at one place
in this projecting rocks I went on one which spured up and
hung over the water from the top of this rock I had a prospect
of the river for 20 or 30 ms. up, from the Cave which
incumpased the hill I decended by a Steep decent to the foot,
a verry bad part of the river opposit this hill, the river continus
to fall Slowly, our hunters killed 7 Deer to day The
land our hunters passed thro: to day on the S. S. was verry
fine the latter part of to day. the high land on the S. S. is
about 2d. rate

Course & Distance 4th.. June

         

N. 30° - W.	4	Ms. to a pt. on S. Sd. psd. a C. & 2 Isd.
N. 25° - W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. Sd. psd. Seeder C.
N. 58 W.	7 1/2	M.s. to pt. on L. S. a Creek on L. S.
N. 75. W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. Sd. opsd. Mine Hill
	17 1/2

June 5th Tuesday 1804—

after Jurking[31] the meet killed yesterday and Crossing the
hunting party we Set out at 6 oClock, from the last Course &
distance, N 51° W. 5 M. to a pt. on the St. Sd. passed a
small creek on the L. S: I call Lead C. passed a creek on
the S. S. of 20 yds. Wide Cal.d Lit: [Little] Good-Womans
C. on the L. S. a Prarie extends from Lead C. parrelel with
the river to Mine river, at 4 Ms. Passed the Creek of
the big rock about 15 yds. wide on the L. S.d at 11 oClock
brought too a small Caissee [raft made of two canoes tied
together] in which was two french men, from 80 Leagues up
the Kansias [Kanzas] R. where they wintered, and Cought a
great quantity of Beaver, the greater part of which they lost
by fire from the Praries, those men inform [us] that the
Kansas Nation are now out in the plains hunting Buffalow,
they hunted last winter on this river Passed a projecting
rock on which was painted a figure [ILLUSTRATION] and a Creek at
2 ms. above Called Little Manitou[32] Creek, from the
Painted rock this Creek 20 yds. wide on the L.
Sd. passed a Small Creek on L. S. opposit a verry bad Sand
bar of Several Ms. in extent, which we named Sand C, here
my Servent York Swam to the Sand bar to geather Greens
for our Dinner, and returned with a Sufficent quantity wild
Creases [Cresses] or Tung [Tongue] grass, we passed up for
2 ms. on the L. S. of this Sand and was obliged to return, the
watr. uncertain the quick Sand moveing we had a fine wind,
but could not make use of it, our Mast being broke, we passed
between 2 Small Islands in the Middle of the Current, &
round the head of three a rapid Current for one mile and
Camped on the S. S. opsd. a large Island in the middle of the
river, one Perogue did not get up for two hours, our Scout
discovd. the fresh sign of about 10 Inds. I expect that those

Indians are on their way to war, against the Osages nation
probably they are the Saukees.[33]

Course & Destance June 5th

     

N. 51°, W.	5	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. ps.d. 3 C, 1 S. 2 L. S.
N 23° W	7 1/2	Ms. a t. L. S. psd. Mon. [Manitou—Ed.] Creek
	12 1/2

June 6th.. Wednesday 1804

Mended our Mast this morning & Set out at 7 oClock under
a jentle breese from S. E. by S passed the large Island, and a
Creek Called Split rock Creek[34] at 5 Ms. on the S. S. psd.
a place to the rock from which this Creek 20 yds. wd. takes
its name, a projecting rock with a hole thro: a point of the
rock, at 8 Ms. passed the Mouth of a Creek Called Saline or
Salt R. on the L. Sd. this River is about 30 yds.. wide, and has
So many Licks and Salt Springs on its banks that the water of
the Creek is Brackish, one verry large Lick is 9 ms. up on the
left Side the water of the Spring in this Lick is Strong as one
bushel of the Water is said to make 7lb. of good Salt passed a
large Isd. & several Small ones, the water excessivly Strong,
so much so that we Camped Sooner than the usual time to
waite for the perogue, The banks are falling in verry much
to day river rose last night a foot.

Capt. Lewis took Meridean altd. of Sun U. L. with the Octant
above Split Rock C. made the altitude 37° 6′-00″ error of
oct. as usual 2° 0′ 0″ + The Country for Several miles below
is good, on the top of the high land back is also tolerble land
Some buffalow Sign to day[35]

I am Still verry unwell with a Sore throat & head ake

Course & Distance June 6th

           

N. 28° W.	3 1/2	Ms. to a Hill on S. S. pd. N. Bilg: of Isd.
N 49° W	1 1/2	Ms. to a creek Split rock
West -	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a Clift
N 31° W.	4 1/2	Ms. 2. to a pt. on L. S. psd. Saline C. L. S.
N. 51° W	3	Ms. to a bilg of an Isd to lift pd. Sm. Isd.
	14

June, 7th.. Thursday 1804

Set out early passed the head of the Island opposit which
we Camped last night, and braekfast at the Mouth of a large
Creek on the S. S. of 30 yds wide called big Monetou,[36] from the
pt. of the Isd. o[u]r Course of last night to the mouth of this
Creek is N 61° W 4 1/2 Ms. a Short distance above the mouth
of this Creek, is Several Courious paintings and carving on the
projecting rock of Limestone inlade with white red & blue flint,
of a verry good quallity, the Indians have taken of this flint
great quantities. We landed at this Inscription and found it a
Den of Rattle Snakes, we had not landed 3 Minites before
three verry large Snakes was observed in the Crevises of the
rocks & killed. at the mouth of the last mentioned Creek
Capt. Lewis took four or five men & went to Some Licks or
Springs of Salt Water from two to four miles up the Creek,
on Rt. Side the water of those Springs are not Strong, say
from 4 to 600 gc. of water for a Bushel of Salt passed some
Small willow Islands and camped at the mouth of a small river
Called Good Womans River[37] this river is about 35 yards Wide
and said to be navagable for Perogues Several Leagues. Capt.
Lewis with 2 men went up the Creek a short distance. our
Hunters brought in three Bear this evening, and informs that
the Countrey thro: which they passed from the last Creek is
fine, rich land, & well watered.

Course & Distance June 7th

         

N 61° W,	4 1/2	Ms. to Mo. of Manitou on S. S.
S 88° W,	2	Ms. to pt. on Lbd. Side
S 81° W	4	Ms. to pt. S. S. psd. an Island
S 87° W	3 1/2	Ms. to pt. of High Land on L. S. psd. W. Isd.
	14 Ms.	Passed the Mo. of Good Womans R.

8th.. of June, Friday 1804—

Set out this morning at Daylight proceeded on the Course
of last night Passed two Willow Islands & a Small Creek
above a Rock point on the L. S. at 6 miles on which there is
a number of Deer Licks, passed the Mine River at 9 ms. this
river is about 70 yards wide at its mouth and is Said to be navagable
for Perogues 80 or 90 ms. the Main [West] branch[38]
passes near the place where the Little Osage village formerly
stood on the Missouries, & heads between the Osarge & Kansias
Rivers, the left hand fork heads with nearer Branches of
the Osage River, The french informd that Lead Ore has been
found in defferent parts of this river, I took Sjt. Floyd and
went out 4 Ms. below this river, I found the land verry good
for a mile or 1 1/2 Ms. back, and Sufficiently watered with Small
Streems which lost themselves in the Missouries bottom, the
Land rose graduelly from the river to the Summit of the high
Countrey, which is not more than 120 foot above High Water
Mark, we joined the Boat & Dined in the point above the
mouth of this River, Capt. Lewis went out above the river &
proceeded on one mile, finding the countrey rich, the wedes
& vines So thick & high he came to the Boat. proceeded on
passed an Island and Camped at the lower point of an Island
on the L. S. Called the Island of Mills about 4 Ms. above Mine
River at this place I found Kanteens, axs, Pumey Stone &
peltry hid and buried (I suppose by some hunters) none of
them (except the pumey Stone) was teched by one of our
party, our hunters Killed 5 Deer to day, commenced raining
Soon after we came too which prevented the party cooking

their provisions. our Spies inform that the Countrey they
passed thro: on S. S is a fine high bottom, no water.

Course & Distance 8th June.

           

S. 81° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. Deer L. Creek L. S.
N 88° W,	3	Ms. to a pt. on L Side
N. 83° W.	2	Ms. to Mouth of Mine Riv. L. S.
N 64° W.	1	Ml. to a pt. on S. S.
N 80° W.	3	Ms. to the Lower pt. of Isd. of Mills
	12

This day we met 3 men on a Cajaux from the River of the
Soux above the Mahar Nation those men had been hunting
12 Mo: & made about 900$ in pelts. & furs they were out
of Provisions and out of Powder. rained this night.

9th of June 1804 Satturday—

a fair morning, the River rise a little we got fast on a Snag
Soon after we Set out which detained us a Short time passed
the upper Point of the Island, Several Small Chanels running
out of the River below a Bluff [Cliff of rocks called the arrow
rock[39] ] & Prarie (Called the Prarie of Arrows) where the river
is confined within the width of 300 [200] yds. Passed a Creek
of 8 yds. wide Called Creek of Arrows, this Creek is Short and
heads in the Praries on the L. S. passed a Small Creek called
Blackbird Creek S.S. and an Island below & a Prarie above on
the L. S. a small Lake above the Prarie. opposit the Lower
point of the 2d. Island on the S. S. we had like to have Stove
our boat, in going round a Snag her Stern Struck a log under
water & She Swung round on the Snag, with her broad Side
to the Current expd. to the Drifting timber, by the active
exertions of our party we got her off in a fiew Mints. without
engerey [injury] and Crossed to the Island where we Campd.[40]
our hunters lay on the S. S. the Perogue crossed without
Seeing them and the banks too uncertain to Send her over.
Some wind from the S accompanied with rain this evening.

The Lands on the S. S. is a high rich bottom the L. S.
appears even and of a good quallity riseing gradually to from
fifty to 100 foot.

Course & Distance June 9th

           

N. 39° W,	4	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a Prarie
N. 34° E.	2	Ms. to pt. of an Isd. L. S.
N. 83′ W,	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. opsd. B. Bs Cr.
N. 39. W.	2	Ms. to a pt. of High Ld. on L. S.
N. 32. E	3 1/2	Ms. to a Pt. on L. S. psd. an Isld.
	13

10th of June1804—

A hard rain last night, We set out this morning verry
early passed Some bad placies in the river, Saw a number
of Goslings [this] morning pass near a Bank which was falling
in at the time we passed, passed two Rivers of Charletons
which mouth together, above some high land which has a great
quantity of Stone Calculated for whetstons the first of those
rivers is about 30 yds. Wide & the other is 70 yds. wd. and heads
Close to the R. Dumons [des Moines] The Aieways [Ayauway]
Nation have a Village on the head of these Rivers.[41]
they run through an even Countrey [a broken rich thickly timbered
country] and is navagable for Perogues Cap Lewis took
Medn. altd. of ☉ U. L. with Octant, back obsvn. made it 37° 12′
—00″ delayed 1 1/2 hours.

Cap. Lewis Killed a large Buck, passed a large Isd. call'd
Shecco[42] and camped in a Prarie on the L. S. I walked out
three miles, found the prarie composed of good Land and
plenty of water roleing & interspursed with points of timber
land. Those Praries are not like those, or a number of those

E. of the Mississippi void of every thing except grass, they
abound with Hasel Grapes & a wild plumb of a Superior [size
&] quallity, Called the Osages Plumb Grows on a bush the
hight of a Hasel (and is three times the sise of other Plumbs,)
and hang in great quantities on the bushes I saw great numbers
of Deer in the Praries, the evening is Cloudy, our party
in high Spirits.

Course & Distance June 10th..

             

N. 8° E	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S.
North	1	Ml. along the L. Side
N. 40° W	1	Ml. do do do
N. 70° W.	0 1/2	(ops.d. the Mos. of Charltons R.
N. 60° W	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
N 80 W	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a Pln.
	10

11th.. June 1804 Monday—

The N W. wind blew hard & cold as this wind was imediately
a head, we could not proceed we took the advantage of
this Delay and Dried our wet articles, examin'd Provisions &c.
&c. the river begining to fall, the hunters killed two Deer
G: Drewyer killed two Bear in the Prarie, they were not fat.
we had the meat Jurked and also the venison, which is a constant
Practice to have all the fresh meat not used, Dried in
this way.

12th.. of June. Tuesday 1804

Set out early passed Some bad Placies, and a Small Creek
on the L. S. called plumb Creek at abt. 1 Ml. at 1 oClock we
brought too [to,] two Chaussies one loaded with furs & Pelteries,
the other with Greece [buffalow grease & tallow] we
purchased 300lbs of Greese, and finding that old Mr. Durioun
was of the party we questioned him untill it was too late to Go
further, and Concluded to Camp for the night, those people
inform nothing of much information.

Concluded to take old durioun [who went acc'] back as fur
as the Soux nation with a view to get some of their Cheifs to
visit the Presdt. of the United S. (This man being a verry

confidential friend of those people, he haveing resided with
the Nation 20 odd years) and to accompany them on[43] [Sentence
incomplete.—Ed.]

Course & Distance June 12th

       

N. 25° W.	3 1/2	Ms. to L. S. passed Plumb C.
N 70 W	2 1/2	Ms. to pt. on S. S.
N. 60° W	3	Ms. to pt. on S. S.
	9

13th.. June Wednesday 1804—

We Set out early passed a round bend to the S. S. and
two Creeks Called the round bend Creeks between those two
Creeks and behind a Small Willow Island in the bend is a
Prarie in which the Missouries Indians once lived and the
Spot where 300 [200] of them fell a sacrifise to the fury of
the Saukees, this nation (Missouries) once the most noumerous
nation in this part of the Continent now reduced to about
30 fes [fires, i. e., families —Ed.] and that fiew under the
protection of the Otteaus[44] [Ottoes] on R Platt who themselves
are declining, passed some willow Isds. and bad Sand bars,
Took Medn. Altitude with Octent back observation it gave
for altd. on its Low L. 36° 58′ 0″ the E [Error] Enstrement
2° 00′ - 00″ +. the Hills or high land for Several days past or
above the 2 Charletons does not exceed 100 foot, passed a
Batteau on Sand rolling where the Boat was nearly turning
over by her Strikeing & turning on the Sand. we came too
in the mouth of Grand River on S. S. and Camped for the
night, this River is from 80 to 100 yards wide at its mouth
and navagable for Perogues a great distance, this river heads
with the R. Dumoine, below its mouth is a butifull Plain of
bottom land, the hills rise at 1/2 a mile back, the lands
about this place is either Plain or over flown bottom. Capt
Lewis and myself walked to the hill, from the top of which we
had a butifull prospect of Serounding countrey, in the open

Prarie we caught a racoon, our hunter brought in a Bear &
Deer, we took some Lunar observations this evening.

Course & Distance 13th. June 1804

         

N. 40° W	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. L. S.
S. 39 W.	3	Ms. to a pt. S. S. psd. 2 Creeks
N. 28, W	1 1/2	Ms. to a Pt. Stbd. S.
N. 30 W	2	Ms. to a pt. L. S. opsd. Gd. R
	9 Ms.

14th. June Thursday—

We Set out at 6 oClock, after a thick fog passed thro: a
narrow pass on the S. S. which forms a large Isd. opposit the
upper point of this Island on the L. S. is one of the worst
quick or moveing sand bars Which I have Seen, notwithstanding
all our precaustons to Clear the Sands and pass
between them (which was the way we were compd. to pass, from
the immence Current & falling banks on the S. S.) the Boat
Struck the point of one from the active exertions of the
men, prevented her turning, if She had turned she must have
overset. We met a Causseu [Cajaux, or raft—Ed.] from the
Pania [Paunee] on the River Platt, we detained 2 hours with
a view of engageing one of the hands to go to the Pania nation
with a view to get those people to meet us on the river, (I
went out & Shot a Deer) We passed a high land, & clay
bluff on the S. S. Called the Snake bluff from the number of
Snakes about this place, we passed a Creek above the Bluff
about 18 yds. wide, this Creek is Called Snake Creek,[45] a bad
Sand bar just below, which we found Dificullty in passing &
Campd. above, our Hunters came in. George Drewyer, gives
the following act. of a Pond, & at abt. 5 Miles below here S. S.
Passed a Small Lake in which there was many Deer feeding.
he heard in this Pond a Snake makeing goubleing noises like
a turkey. he fired his gun & the noise was increased, he
has heard the indians mention this Species of Snake, one
Frenchman gives a Similar account

Course & Distance June 14th..

         

S. 33° W	2	Ms. to Lowr. pt. on an Isd. S. S.
S. 60° W	1	Ml. thro: a chanil on S. S.
S. 70° W	2	Ms. to pt. L. S. passed a bad Sand
S. 5 E	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. passed a Creek S. S.
	8

15th June, Friday 1804—

Set out early and had not proceeded far e'er we wheeled on
a Sawyer which was near injuring us verry much, passed a
plain on the L. S. a Small Isd. in the midle, the river riseing,
water verry swift Passed a Creek on the L. S. passed between
two Islands, a verry bad place, moveing Sands, we were
nearly being swallowed up by the rolling Sands over which the
Current was so Strong that we could not Stem it with our
Sales under a Stiff breese in addition to our ores, we were
compelled to pass under a bank which was falling in, and use
the Toe rope occasionally, Continued up pass two other
Small Islands and Camped on the S. S. nearly opposit the
antient Village of the Little Osarges and below the antt. Village
of the Missouries both Situations in view and within three
Ms. of each other,[46] the Osage were Settled at the foot [of]
a hill in a butifull Plain, which extends back quite to the
Osage River, in front of the Vilg: next to the river is an
ellegent bottom Plain which extends several miles in length on
the river in this low Prarie the Missouries lived after they
were reduced by the Saukees at their Town Some Diste. below.
The little osage finding themselves much oppressed by the
Saukees & other nations, left this place & built a village 5
Ms. from the Grand Osarge Town, about years ago a
fiew of the Missouries accompanied them, the remainder of
that Nation went to the Otteaus on the River Platt. The
River at this place is about 3 [one] Ms. wide. our hunters did
not come in this evening the river beginning to fall

Course & Distance June 15th

               

S. 35° W.	2	Ms. along S. S.
S. 50° W.	1 1/2	Ms. a pt. L. S. passed a pra: & Creek L. S.
S. 51° W.	2 1/2	Ms. pt. S. S. psd. a Willow Isd.
S. 8° W.	3/4	Ms. to a pt. L. S. passd. Low pt/2 Isds.
S. 80° W.	2	Ms. to upr. Pt. Isd. S. S. psd. bad place
S. 5° W.	2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. passed bad place
S. 12° W.	1 1/2	Ms. to a pd. S. S. psd. a Isd. in Midl opsd. old village
	12 1/4	Lit: Osage.

16th June Satturday 1804—

Set out at 7 oClock at about a mile 1/2 we came to the
Camp of our hunters, they had two Bear & two Deer, proceeded
on pass a Island on the S. S. a heavy rain came on &
lasted a Short time, we came to on the S. S. in a Prarie at the
place where Mr. Mackey lais down a old french fort,[47] I could
See no traces of a Settlement of any kind, in the plain I discovered
a kind of Grass resembling Timothey which appeared
well Calculated for Hay. this Plain is verry extensive in the
evening I walked on the S. S. to see if any timber was convt.
to make Oars, which we were much in want of, I found some
indifferent timber and Struck the river above the Boat at a
bad Sand bar, the worst I had Seen which the boat must pass
or Drop back Several Miles & Stem a Swift Current on the

opsd. Side of an Isd. the Boat however assended the middle of
the Streem which was difficult Dangerious We came to above
this place at Dark and Camped in a bad place, the Mosquitoes
and Ticks are noumerous & bad.

Course & Distance June 16th..

             

N. 68.° W.	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. L. S. pass Isd. S. S.
West	2	Ms. to a blg. in Snag Isd. L. S.
S. 85 W.	1	Ml. on L. S. a bad Sand Mid.
S. 61 W.	1	Ml. on L. S. do do and 2 sm. Isds..
S. 30 W.	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. passed upr Sd. Isd.
S. 40 W	1	Ml. alg. S. S. an Isd. Mdl. & bad ps
	10

June 17th. Sunday 1804 (S. 65° W. 1 Ml. S. Side.)—

Cloudy morning wind from the S. E we Set out early and
proceeded on one mile & came too to make oars, & repair our
cable & toe rope &c. &c. which was necessary for the Boat &
Perogues, Sent out Sjt. Pryor and Some men to get ash timber
for ores, and Set some men to make a Toe Rope out of the
Cords of a Cable which had been provided by Capt. Lewis at
Pittsburg for the Cable of the boat. George Drewyer our
hunter and one man came in with 2 Deer & a Bear, also a
young Horse, they had found in the Prarie, this horse has
been in the Prarie a long time and is fat, I Suppose, he has
been left by Some war party against the Osage, This is a
Crossing place for the war parties against that nation from the
Saukees, Aiaouez, [Ayauways] & Souix. The party is much
aflicted with Boils, and Several have the Deassentary, which I
contribute to the water [which is muddy.] The Countrey
about this place is butifull on the river rich & well timbered
on the S. S. about two miles back a Prarie coms. [commences]
which is rich and interspursed with groves of timber, the
county rises at 7 or 8 miles Still further back and is rolling.
on the L. S. the high lands & Prarie coms. in the bank of the
river and and continus back, well watered and abounds in Deer
Elk & Bear The Ticks & Musquiters are verry troublesome.

June 18th.. Monday

Some rain last night, and Some hard Showers this morning
which delay our work verry much, Send out Six hunters in
the Prairie on the L. S. they kill 5 Deer & Coht [caught] a
Bear, which verry large & fat, the party to wok at the oars,
make rope, & jurk their meat all Day Dry our wet Sales &c.
in the evening, The Musquiters verry bad

June 19th.. Tuesday

rain last night after fixing the new oars and makeing all
necessary arrangements, we set out under a jentle breese from
the S. E. and proceeded on passed two large Islands on the
S. S. leaving J. Shields and one man to go by land with the
horses Some verry hard water, passed Several Islands &
Sand bars to day at the head of one we were obliged to cleare
away Driftwood to pass, passed a Creek on the L. Side Called
Tabboe [Tabo] 15 yds. Wide passed a large Creek at the head
of an Island Called Tiger River 25 yds. on the S. S. the
Island below this Isd. is large and called the Isle of Pant[h]ers,
formed on the S. S. by a narrow Channel, I observed on the
Shore Goose & Rasp berries in abundance in passing Some
hard water round a Point of rocks on the L. S. we were obliged
to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we
came too on the L. S. near a Lake of the Sircumfrance of
Several miles, Situated on the L. S. about two miles from the
river[48] this Lake is Said to abound in all kinds of fowls, Great
numbers of Deer frequent this Lake dureing Summer Season,
and feed on the hows [haws] &c. &c. they find on the edgers
the Land on the North Side of the river is rich and Sufficiently
high to afford Settlements, the Lds. on the South Side assends
Gradually from the River not So rich, but of a good quallity
and appear well watered

Course & Distance June 19th

             

N 87° W.	3	Ms. to upr. pt. of an Island.
S 80° W	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. L. Side psd. 4 wil. Isds..
S. 70° W	1 1/2	Ms. along the L. S.
S 58° W	4 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. psd. a Isd. S. S.
S. 68 W	3	Ms. to pt. S. S. psd. Tabbo Creek
S. 83 W	4	Ms. to pt. L. S. Campd. 1 Ml.[49]
	17 1/2

June 10th Wednesday—

Set out after a heavy Shower of rain and proceeded on the
Same Course of last night passede a large butifull Prarie on
the S. S. opposit a large Island, called Saukee Prarie, a jentle
breese from the S. W. Some butifull high lands on the L. S.
passed Som verry Swift water to day, I saw Pelicans to day on
a Sand bar, My Servent York nearly loseing an Eye by a
man throwing Sand into it, we came too at the lower Point
of a Small Island, the party on Shore we have not Seen Since
we passed Tiger R. The Land appear'd verry good on each
Side of the river to day and well timbered, We took Some
Loner observations, which detaind. us untill 1 oClock a butifull
night but the air exceedingly Damp, & the Mosquiters
verry troublesome

Course & Deistances June 20th.

           

S. 42° W.	1	Ml. along L. S.
S. 46°. W	2	Ml. to pt. S. S. psd. an Isd.
S. 51°. W	1 1/2	Ms. to pt. L. S. opsd. Isd. & Saukee Prarie on S. S.
S. 70°. W	3/4	Ml. along L. S. water bad
S. 25°. W	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. psd. Isd. & bad Sand
	6 3/4

21st.. June Thursday—

The river rose 3 Inches last night after the Bows man
Peter Crousat viewed the water on each Side of the Island
which presented a most unfavourable prospect of Swift water

over rolling Sands which rored like an immense falls, we concluded
to assend on the right Side, and with much dificuelty,
with the assistance of a long Cord or Tow rope, & the anchors,
we got the Boat up without any further dang. than Braking
a Cabbin window & loseing Some oars which were Swong
under the windows, passed four Isds.. to day two large & two
Small, behind the first large Island two Creeks mouth, called
Eue-bert [Hubert][50] Creek & River & Isd. the upper of those
Creeks head against the Mine River & is large, passed a
verry remarkable bend in the River to the S. forming an
accute angle, the high lands come to the river on the S. S.
opposit the upper large Island, this Isd. is formed by a narrow
chanel thro. the Pt. of the remarkable bend just mentiond. below
this Isd. on the L. S. is a Counter Current of about a
mile. passed between several Small Islands Situated near the
L. Side and camped above on the Same Side. Two men Sent
out to hunt this evening brought in a Buck & a pore Turkey.

at Sunset the atmespier presented every appearance of wind,
Blue & White Streeks centiring at the Sun as She disappeared
and the Clouds Situated to the S. W. Guilded in the most
butifull manner.

The Countrey and Lands on each Side of the river is
various as useal, and may be classed as follows, viz: the low
or overflown points or bottom land, of the groth of Cotton
& Willow, the 2nd.. or high bottom of rich furtile Soile of the
groth of Cotton, Walnut, Som ash, Hackberry, Mulberry,
Lynn [Linden] & Sycamore. the third or high Lands rises
gradually from the 2nd.. bottom (except whin it Coms to the
river then from the river) about 80 or 100 foot roleing back
Supplied with water (the small rivers of which loses themselves
in the bottom land) and are covered with a variety of timber
Such as Oake of different Kinds Blue ash, Walnut &c. &c. as
far as the Praries, which I am informed lie back from the river,
at Some places near & others a great Distance

Course & Distance June 21st.. 1804

               

S. 77° W.	2 1/2	Ms. along S. S. psd. the hd. of a lg Isd. L. S.
N. 30° E,	1 1/2	Ms. pt. L. S. psd. a cl. Low pt. Isd. on L. S. (1)
North,	1	Ml. along the Larboard Side
N 18° W	1/2	Ml. do do do
N 84° W	1/2	Ml. do do do
S. 80° W,	3/4	Ml. do do  psd. Sevl. Sm. Isds. L. S.
S. 35 W	3/4	Ml. do do psd. do do do
	7 1/2

22nd.. June Friday—

river rose 4 Inch last night I was waken'd before daylight
this morning by the guard, prepareing the Boat to receve
an apparent Storm which threttened violence from the West
at daylight a violent wind accompanied with rain cam[e] from
the W. and lasted about one hour, it Cleared away, and we
Set out and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from the
N. W. passed Some verry Swift water, crouded with Snags,
pass two large Island opposit each other, and immediately
opposit a large & extensive Prarie on the Labd. Side, This
Prarie is butifull a high bottom for 1 1/2 mile back and rises
to the Common leavell of of the Countrey (about 70 or 80
feet) and extends back out of view. Capt. L walked on Shore
a fiew miles this after noon (at 3 oClock P. M. Farents. Thermometer
Stood at 87° = to 11° above Summer heat) We
came too on the L. Side opposit the mouth of a large Creek
called the River of the Fire Prarie,[51] at the mouth of this
Creek, the Party on Shore were waiting our arrival, they
informed that the Lands thro: which they passed was fine &
well watered

Course & Distance June 22nd

         

S. 14° W.	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on the S. S.
S. 25° W	3	Ms. to a pt. on the S. S. bad wat.
S. 66° W.	1/2	Ml. on S. Side
N. 60° W	4 1/2	Mls to a pt. on the L. S. psd. 2 Isds and a Prarie
	10 1/2

23rd.. June Satturday—

Some wind this morning from the N. W. we set out at
7 oClock, and proceeded on to the head of a Island on the
S. S. the wind blew hard and down the river which prevented
the P'ty moveing [proceding] from this Island the whole
day,[52] Capt. Lewis had the arms examined &c. at the lower
end of this Island I got out of the boat to walk on Shore, &
expected the party on Shore would overtake me, at the head
of the Island, they did not & I proceeded on round a round
and extensive bend in the river, I Killed a Deer & made a
fire, expecting the boat would come up in the evening. the
wind continueing to blow prevented their moveing, as the
distance by land was too great for me to return by night I
concluded to Camp, Peeled Some bark to lay on, and
geathered wood to make fires to keep off the musquitrs &
knats, Heard the party on Shore fire, at Dark Drewyer
came to me with the horses, one fat bear & a Deer, river fell
8 Inches last night

Course & Distance June 23rd..

     

N 70° W	2	Ms. to an Isd. on S. S. (I went out)
N 75° E	1 1/2	Ms. psd. the head of the Isd. to pt. L. S.
	3 1/2

24th June Sunday—

Set out at half after Six. I joined the boat this morng at
8 oClock (I will only remark that dureing the time I lay on
the sand waiting for the boat, a large Snake Swam to the bank
imediately under the Deer which was hanging over the water,
and no great distance from it, I threw chunks and drove this
snake off Several times. I found that he was so determined
on getting to the meet, I was compelld. to kill him, the part

of the Deer which attracted this Snake I think was the Milk
from the bag of the Doe.) I observed great quts. of Bear
Signs, where the had passed in all Directions thro the bottoms
in Serch of Mulberries, which were in great numbers.
in all the bottoms thro which our party passed)

Passed the mouth of a Creek 20 yds. wide name [named]
Hay Cabbin Creek[53] from Camps of Straw built on it

came to about 1/2 Ml. above this creek & jurked, the meet
killed yesterday and this morning Lattitude of this place
38°–37′–5″ N. Capt. Lewis walked on Shore & killed a Deer,
pass a bad part of the river, on the S. S. the rocks projected
into the river Some distance, a creek above called Sharriton
Carta,[54] in the evening we Passed thro: between two Sand
bars at the head we had to raise the Boat 8 Inches to get
her over, Camped near the lower point of an Island on the
on the L. Side, party in high Sperrits. The Countrey on each
side of the river is fine interspursed with Praries, in which
immence herds of Deer is Seen,[55] on the banks of the river
we observe numbers of Deer watering and feeding on the
young willow, Several killed to day

Course & Distance June 24th

             

N 80. E	1/4	Ml. on the Larboard Side
N 55. E	1/4	Ml. on other
West	3	Ms. to a point on S. S.
N 80. W.	4 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. passd. Hay Cab. Is.
West	1/2	Ml. on L. Side
S 21°. W	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. a rock & Creek L. S.
	11 1/2

25th.. June Monday

a thick fog detained us untill 8 oClock, passed a Island,
at 3 Miles passed a Coal-Mine, or Bank of stone Coal, on
the South Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity
of fine Coal, the river being high, prevented our Seeing
that contained in the cliffs of the best quallity, a Small Creek
mouths below this bank call'd after the bank Chabonea [Charbon]
Creek the Wind from the N. W. passed a Small Creek
on the L. Side at 12 oClock, called Bennet's Creek The Praries
come within a Short distance of the river on each Side which
Contains in addition to Plumbs Raspberries &c. vast quantities
of wild apples, great numbs. of Deer are seen feeding on
the young willows & earbage in the Banks and on the Sand
bars in the river, our party on Shore did not join in this
evening we camped on an Island Situated on the S. Side,
opposit some hills higher than Common, say 160 or 180 feet
above the Bottom. The river is Still falling last night it fell
8 Inches

Course & Distance June 25th..

                   

S. 49° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
S 55 W	1/2	Ml. on the S. S. psd. a Coal Mine
N. 50° W	3 1/2	Ms. to Pt. on L. S. psd. a Creek L. S.
N. 70° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S. pass Willow Isd.
S. 80° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S. ditto
S 55° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S. ditto
S 15° W	1/2	Ml. on L. S. ditto & round Pt.
S 2° E	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
S 48 W	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. a Isd.
	13

June 26th.. Tuesday 1804—

We Set out early, the river falling a little, the wind from
the S. W. Passed the mouth of a Small river on the L. Side
above the upper point of a Small Island, called Blue Water
River,[56] this river heads in Praries back with the Mine River

about 30 yds. wide Lattitude of a pt. 4 Ms. above this river is
38° 32°′–15″ North, the high lands which is on the North
Side does not exceed 80 feet high, at this Place the river
appears to be confd. in a verry narrow channel, and the current
Still more so by Counter Current or Whirl on one Side
& high bank on the other, passed a Small Isd. in the bend
to the L. Side We Killed a large rattle Snake, Sunning himself
in the bank, passed a bad Sand bar, where our tow rope
broke twice, & with great exertions, we rowed round it and
came to & camped, in the Point above the Kansas [Kanzas]
River I observed a great number of Parrot queets [Parroquets]
this evening, our Party killed Several [7] Deer to day

Course & Distance June 26th

                 

S 62° W.	1/2	Ml. on the S. S. Isd. on L. S.
S 80° W.	1/2	Ml. on the S. S. psd. Blue Water R. L. S.
N 87° W.	1	Ml. on the S. S.
N. 85° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on the L. S. Midl. abt.
S. 80° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S.
S. 37° W.	2 1/2	Mls to a pt. on S. S. psd. Lit. Cr.
S. 58° W	1	Ml. on S. S. psd. a bad place
S. 78° W.	3/4	Ml. to the up. pt. of Kansas R.
	9 3/4	= 366 & 3/4 Ms. to mouth of Missourie

June 27th.. Wednesday—

a fair warm morning, the river rose a little last night, we
determine to delay at this Place three or four Days to make
observations & recruit the party, Several men out Hunting,
onloaded our Perogue, and turned her up to Dry with a view
of repairing her after completing a Strong redoubt or brest
work from [one] river to the other, of logs & Bushes Six feet
high, The Countrey about the mouth of this river is verry
fine on each Side as well as North of the Missourie the
bottom, in the Point is low & overflows for 250 yards. it
rises a little above high water mark and continus of that hight
of good quallity back to the hills A high Clift, on the upper
Side of the Kanses 1/2 a mile up below the Kanses the hills
is about 1 1/2 Miles from the point on the North Side of the

Missourie the Hils or high lands is Several Miles back, we
compared the instrumts Took equal altitudes, and the Meridian
altitude of the Suns L. L. to day Latitude 38° 31′–13″
Longitude [Blank space in MS.] measured the width of the
Kansas River by an angle and made it 230 yds. 1/4 wide,[57] it is
wider above the mouth the Missourie at this place is about
500 yards wide, The Course from the Point down the Midl.
of the Missourie is S. 32° E, & turns to the North. up Do:
is N 21° W. & do do [i. e. turns to the North—Ed.] Do.
up the right side of the Kansas is S. 54° E., & the river turns
to the left, Several Deer killed to day.

28 June Thursday—

took equal altitudes &c. &c. &c. & varaition of the Compass
repaired the Perogue cleaned out the Boat suned our Powder
[and] wollen articles examined every thing 8 or 10 huntrs
out to day in different directions, in examining our Private
Store of Provisions we found Several articles Spoiled from the
wet or dampness they had received, a verry warm day, the
wind from the South, The river Missourie has raised yesterday
last night & to day about 2 foot. this evening it is on a
Stand, Captt. Lewis weighed the water of the Two rivers
The Missourie 78° the Kansais 72°. (the weight is)[58]

To Describe the most probable of the various accounts of
this great river of the Kansas, would be too lengthy & uncertain
to insert here, it heads with the river Del Noird in the
black Mountain or ridge which Divides the Waters of the
Kansas Del Nord, & Callarado & [a word almost illegible;
possibly "offshoots."—Ed.] from those of the Missourie
(and not well assertaind.) This river receves its name from a
Nation which dwells at this time on its banks & [has] 2
villages one about 20 leagues & the other 40 Leagues up,
those Indians are not verry noumerous at this time, reduced
by war with their neighbours, &c, they formerly lived on
the South banks of the Missourie 24 Leagues above this river
in a open & butifull plain, and were verry noumerous at the

time the french first Settled the Illinois, I am told they are
a fierce & warlike people, being badly Supplied with fire arms,
become easily conquered by the Aiauway & Saukees who are
better furnished with those materials of War, This Nation is
now out in the Plains hunting the Buffalow [They consist of
about 300 men] our hunters killed Several Deer and Saw
Buffalow, Men impd. [employed] Dressing Skins & makeing
themselves comfortable, the high lands come to the river
Kansas on the upper Side at about a mile, full in view, and a
butifull place for a fort, good landing-place, the waters of the
Kansas is verry disigreeably tasted to me.

29th.. June Friday

obsvd. the distance of ☉ & ☾, took Equal & maridional
Altd. and after makeing Some arrangements, and inflicting a
little punishment to two men we Set out at 1/2 past 4 oClock,
and proceeded on. (I) passed a large Island on the S. Side,
opposit a large Sand bar, the Boat turned, and was within Six
Inches of Strikeing the rapidity with which the Boat turned
was so great that if her bow had Struck the Snag, She must
have either turned over or the bow nocked off, S W wind

Course Distance and refferences June 29th.

       

N. 21. W.	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. pt. Isd. S. S. (I)
N. 1.8° W.	3/4	Ml. on the L. S. psd. Hd. of the Isd.
S. 79. W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on the S. S.
	7 1/4