University of Virginia Library

[Clark:]

July 13th.. Friday 1804—

Set out at Sun rise, and prosd. on under a gentle Breeze, at
two Miles passed the mouth of a Small river on the S. S.
called by the Indians Tar-ki-o,[68] a channel running out of the
river three miles above (which is now filled up with Sand)
runs into this Creek and formed a Island Called Sd. Josephs
Several Sand bars parralel to each other above. In the first
bend to the left is Situated a Butifull & extensive plain, cover'd
with Grass resembling Timothy except the Seed which resembles
Flax Seed, this plain also abounds in Grapes of
defferent kinds Some nearly ripe, I Killed two Goslings
nearly Grown, Several others Killed and cought on Shore,
also one old Goose, with pin fethers, she Could not fly. at
about 12 Miles passd. a Island Situated in a bend on the S. S.
above this Island is a large Sand bar Covered with willows,
The wind from the South, Camped on a large Sand Bar
makeing out from the L. Sd. opposit a high handsom Prarie,
the hills about 4 or 5 Miles on S. S. this plain appeard extensive,
the Clouds appear to geather to the N. W. a most
agreeable Breeze from the South (I walked on Shore on the
S. S. the lands are low Subject to overflow)

Last night at about 10 oQock a Violent Storm of wind
from the N. N. E which lasted with Great violence for about
one hour, at which time a Shower of rain Succeeded.

Course Distance & Reffrs.. July 13th

                 

N. 8° E. 1	Ml. to pt. on S. S. psd. Sd. Isld.
N. 28° E 3 1/2	Ms. to pt. on L. S. psd. Riv. & Isd. (1)
S 70° W 3	Ms. to pt. on S. S. opsd. a prarie (2)
N. 46° W. 1 1/2	Ml. on S. S. opsd. the Prarie & a Hill
N. 30° W. 1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S.
N. 45° W. 4 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. an Isd. (3)
N. 66° W. 3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
N. 8° W. 2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. a Sand Isd.
20 1/2 Miles

The men on Shore did not join us this after noon. The
river nearly on a Stand the high lands on the S. S. has only
been seen at a Distance above the Nordaway River, those on
the L. S. approaching the river at every bend, on the Side
next to the river well timbered, the opsd. Side open & the
Commencmt. of Plains.

July 14th Satturday 1804—

Some hard Showers of rain this morning prevented our
Setting out untill 7 oClock, at half past Seven, the atmispr.
became Sudenly darkened by a black and dismal looking
Cloud, at the time we were in a Situation (not to be bettered,)
near the upper point of the Sand Island, on which we lay, and
the opposit Shore, the bank was falling in and lined with snags
as far as we could See down, in this Situation the Storm
which passd. over an open Plain from the N. E. Struck the our
boat on the Starbd. quarter, and would have thrown her up on
the Sand Island dashed to pices in an Instant, had not the
party leeped out on the Leward Side and kept her off with
the assistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the Storm was
over, the waves washed over her windward Side and she
must have filled with water if the Lockers which is [had not
been—Ed.] covered with Tarpoling & threw of the Water &
prevented any quantity getting into Bilge of the Boat In this
Situation we Continued about 40 Minits. when the Storm
Sudenly Seased and the river become Instancetaniously as
Smoth as Glass.

The two perogu[e]s dureing this Storm was in a Similar
situation with the boat about half a mile above. The wind
shifted to the S. E. & we Sailed up passed a Small (1) Isld
Situated on the S. S. and Dined & continued two hours, men
examine their arms about a Mile above this Island, passed a
Small Tradeing fort on the S. S. where, Mr. Bennet of St. Louis
Traded with the Otteaus & Panis two years. I went on
Shore to Shoot Some Elk on a Sand bar to the L. S. I fired
at one but did not get him, Went out into a large extensive
bottom the greater part of which over flows, the part that
dose not over flow, is rich and well timbered, Some Small

open Praries near the hills, the Boat passed the lower part
of a large Island Situated on the S. S. above the Lower
point of this Island on the S. S. a (2) large Creek Coms into
the river called by the Maha's [Mahar] Indians Neesh-nah-ba-to-na
(Neĕsh-năh-bă-to-na) 50 yds. this is a Considerable
Creek, nearly as large as the Mine River, and runs parrilel
with the Missouri, the Greater part of its course. In those
small Praries or Glades I saw wild Timothy, lambs-quarter,
Cuckle burs,[69] & rich weed. on the edges Grows Sumr. Grapes,
Plum's, & Goose berries. I Joined the boat which had Came
to and Camped[70] in a bend opposd. the large Island before mentioned
on the L. S. Several men unwell with Boils, Felons,
&c. The river falls a little.

Course Distance & Reffers. July 14th

           

N. 70°. W.	2	Ms. to a point on S. S. a Sml. Isd. S. S. (1)
N. 22°. W	2	Ms. to a pt. L. S. wind Shift N. W. by N.
N. 30° W.	1	Ml. on the L. S.
N. 50 W	2 1/2	Ms. to Lowr. pt. of an Isd. S. S.
N. 87 W	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. Side of Isd. psd. a Creek (2)
	9

July 15th.. Sunday—

a heavy Fog this morning prevented our Setting out before
7 oClock, at nine I took two men and walked on the L. S.
I crossed three butifull Streems of running water heading in
the Praries on those Streem the lands verry fine covered with
pea vine & rich weed the high Praries are also good land
Covered with Grass entirely void of timber, except what grows
on the water, I proceeded on thro those praries Several
Miles to the Mouth of a large Creek on the L. S. called (?)
[Little] Nema har this is a Small river, about 100 yds.. above
the Mouth it is 40 yards wide, at the mouth (as all other
Creeks & rivers falling into the Missourie are) much narrower
than a little distance up. after continueing at the mouth of

this Creek about an hour, I swam across and proceeded on
about 3 miles and halted to waite for the boat, which was some
distance below. In all this days march thro woods & Praries,
I only Saw three Deer & 3 fawns. I had at one part of the
Prarie a verry extensive view of all the Countrey around up
and down the river a Considerable distance, on the Larbd. Sd.
one continued Plain, on the S. S. Some timber on the bank of
the river, for a Short distance back of this timber is a bottom
Plain of four or five miles back to the hills and under the
hills between them & the river this plain appeared to extend
20 or 30 miles, those Hills have but little timber, and the
Plain appears to Continue back of them. I saw Great quantities
of Grapes, Plums of 2 kinds, Wild Cherries of 2 Kinds,
Hazelnuts, and Goosberries.

We Camped in a point of woods on the Larboard S. opsd. a
large Island.

Course Dists. & refrs.. July 15th 1804

                 

N. 30° W	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on a Willow Isd. on the L. S. passed the head of the large Isd. on S. S. (1)
N. 70° W	1/4	of a Ml. to L. pt. on Sd. Isd. the boat Passed to the L. S. Hills projects to river
N. 89 W.	1/4	of a ml. to a pt. of Sd. Isld.. the Hills here leave the river.
N. 88° W.	1/4	of a Mile to a pt. on main Shore L. S. opposit a Sand bar. took Medn. altd. ☉ L. L.
West	1 1/4	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opposit to which the hills again touch the river.
N 45° W.	1 1/2	Ms. to the Mouth of Ne-ma-har creek in a bend to L. S. (2) opsd. Low pt. of Sd. bar.
N. 30° E	2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. a Deep bend to the right below the pt.
N. 15° E.	3/4	Ml. to the lower pt. of a Isd east of this Isd. is Said to be a Pond.
	9 3/4

July 16th.. Monday 1804—

Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on under
a gentle breeze from the S passed the upper point of the
Island, an extensive Prarie on the L. S. passed a large (1)

Island Called Fair Sun Isd. a Small Willow Isld. at the lower
point on the L. S., the boat passd. on the L. S. of those
Islands Several Small Sand Islands in the Channel, the Boat
run on the point of a Snag, (2) passed a place above the
Island, L. S. where about 20 acres of the hill has latterly
Sliped into the river, above a clift of Sand Stone for about two
miles, the resort of burds of Different kinds to reare their
young. (5) Passed a Willow Island in a Deep bend to the
S. S. opposit the river is about two miles wide, and not verry
Deep as the Snags may be Seen across, scattering, passed
the Lower point of an Island called by F, Chauvin [Chauve
Island][71] Situated off the L. Point opposit an extensive Prarie
on the S. S. This Prarie I call Ball [Bald—Ed.] pated
Prarie, from a range of Ball Hills parrelel to the river & at
from 3 to 6 miles distant from it, and extends as far up &
Down as I can See. We Camped in a point of Woods on
the S. S. above the Lower point of the Island, river falling.

Course Distance & refr. July 16th..

                                 

N. 70°. W.	1/2	a Ml. to a pt. on the left of the Isd. opposd.
N. 35°. W.	1 1/2	Ms. to a bend L. S. in Prarie opsd. hd. of Isd.
N. 30°. E.	1	Ml. to to the Lowr. pt. of Wil: Isd. off L. pt. (1)
N. 40°. W	1/4	Ml. to pt. on sad. Island
N. 30°. W.	2	Ms. to a pt. S. of a Sm. Isd. on S. S. psd. pt. L. S.
N. 15°. E.	1 1/2	Ml. to pt. of Good Sun Isd. psd. W Isd. (2)
N. 35°. W.	1/2	Ml. to L. S. Sm: W: Isd. psd. a Sm. W: Isd. (3)
N. 15°. W	3/4	Ml. on L. S. High Land Ner. Shore
N. 38°. W	3/4	Ml. to pt. Left of Isd. psd. Sm. W: Isd. L. S.
N. 54°. W	3/4	Ml. to pt. Sm. W. Isd. on the Sd. of the Isd.
N. 38°. W	3/4	Ml. to pt. L. S. took Mdn. altd. Lat. 40°: 20′- 12".
N. 52°. W	1/2	Ml. to pt. of the Isd. opsd. High Land.
N. 50°. W.	1 1/4	Ms. to pt. on L. S. above hd. of Isd. (4)
N. 58°. W.	2	Ms. to pt. on S. S. psd. Sand Stone Clifts
North.	1/4	Ml. on the S. point
N. 40° E.	6	Ms. to the upr. pt. of a wood in the bend to the S. S. above the Lowr. Point of a Isld. L. S. a prarie. above & Som ball Hills at abt. 4 Ms. (I calld. Ball Hill Prarie)
	20 1/4

July 17th.. Tuesday 1804 Bald pated Prarie—

We concluded [to] lay by at this place to day to fix the
Lattitude & Longitude of this place (to Correct the cronometer
run down Sunday) Several men out by day light hunting,
Capt. Lewis concld. to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na
Creek which passes under the ball hills near this place and at
one place a little above this Camp is within 300 yards of
the Missourie on this Creek grows Some few trees of oake
Walnut & Mulberry.

I took Meridean altitude of ☉ L. L. (43° 27") which made
the Lattitude 40°–27′– 5″–4/10 North. Wind from the South
E. Several of the party much inflicted with tumers of different
kinds, Som of which is verry troublesom, and dificcelt to cure.
Capt. Lewis returned in the evening, he Saw Som handsom
Countrey, & Says that the aforesaid Creek is rapid muddy and
running. This Creek which [where he saw it] is at 10 or 12
from its mouth, within 300 yds. of the river [Missi.] is at least
25 [16] foot Lower than the river.[72] The high Lands from
our Camp in this Bald Pated Prarie bears N 25° W. up the R.

Took equal altitudes

     

A. M. 7 h - 10 m - 8s	P. M. 4 h - 4 m - 38
" - 15 - 28	" - 6 - 3
" -52 -55	" - 7 - 24

Altitude 69° - 36′ - 00″
Took Suns Azmoth, with Comps. & Sextent & Time

         

		Ist.. Set
Comps.		altid.		Time
N. 85° W.	=	28° . 51′ . 45″.	=	h5. m23. s10
		2d. Set.
N. 84° W.	=	26° - 35′ - 30″	=	5 - 59 . 20

observed the Moon ☾ & Spica * Star West

                 

Made	Time			distance
	8 - 53 - 11	.	.	41° - 50′ - 00″
	" - 59 - 0	.	.	" - 53 - 15
	9 - 2 - 58	.	.	" - 54 - 0
	" - 5 - 49	.	.	" - 55 - "
	" - 8 - 2	.	.	" - 56 - "
	" - 15 - 24	.	.	" - 57 - "
	" - 21 - 10	.	.	" - 58 - "
	" - 25 - 18	.	.	42 - 0 - 0

The Common Current taken with a Log runs 50 fathem in
40"—Some places much Swifter, in 30" and even 20 Seconds
of time, five Deer Killed to day

July 18th.. Wednesday 1804—

a fair morning the river falling fast. Set out this morning
at Sun rise under a Gentle Breeze from the S E. by S passing
over the Prarie, at about 3 Miles we passed the head of the
Island L. S. called by the French Chauve or Bald pate opposit
the middle of (1) this Island the creek on the S. S. is nearest
the river. In high water an Island is formed in the bend
above the last (2). Measured the Current and found that in
forty one Seconds it run 50 fathom but little timber is to be
Seen except in the Low points on Islands & on creeks, the
Groth of timber is generally Cotton Mulberry Elm Sycomore
&c. &c. passed a Island on the 2d. point to the S. S. opposit
the water (3) when high passes out in the Plain, oppsed this
Island on the L. S. the hills jut to the river (4) this Hill has
Sliped from the top which forms a Bluff above & 200 foot
above the water, about 3/4 of a mile in length & about 200
feet in Depth, has Sliped into the river, it is Composed of
Sand Stone intermixed with an indiffert. Iron ore near the
bottom or next to the water is a Soft Slate Stone, Some
pebble is also intirmixt. We passed a verry bad Sand bar and
incamped on the L. S. at the lower point of the Oven Islands
& opposit the Prarie, Calld. by the french Four le tourtere
[Baker's Oven]. Saw a Dog nearly Starved on the bank, gave
him som meet, he would not follow, our hunters killed 2
Deer to day.

Course distance & reffers. July 18th

                   

N. 28°. W.	3 3/4	Ms. to a Curve in the bank passed a bend of the Isd. (& Several Sand bars (1)
S 28°. W	3 3/4	Ms. to pt. on S. S. psd. the head of the Isd. on L. S. (one back in bend (2)
S. 32°. W.	1/2	Ml. on S. pt. psd. a Sand bar
S. 88°. W	1/4	Ml. on S. S. Wind S. W.
N 55°. W	1/4	Ml. on S. S.
N. 48°. W	2 1/2	Mls.. to a pt. on L. S. ps4. a Sand bar L. S.
N 64°. W	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. low banks on L. S. (2) an Isd. S. S. (3)
N 50°. W	3	Ms.. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a red bank on L. S. Some Iron (4)
N. 8°. E	1 1/2	Mls. to pt. on L. S. opsd. a Small Isld. in the river one (above (5)
	18

The Creummoter too Slow 6 minits 51 seconds & 6/10 altitude of
the North Star * last night at 10 h - 23 m - 18 s was 81° - 9′ - 15″.

July 19th Thursday 1804—

Set out early passed between two small Islands, one in the
Middle of the river, the other close on the L. S. opposit a
prarie S. S. called (1) by the french Four le tourtre. The Bakers
oven Islands, passed (2) Some high clift 4 1/2 Miles above
the Islands on the L. S. of yellow earth passed Several Sand
bars, that [were] wide and at one place verry Shallow (two
Small butifull runs falls into the river near each other at this
Clift, a Deer Lick 200 yards up the Lowest of those runs
head at no great distance in the plains and pass thro: Scirts
[skirts] of timber to the river. In my walk on Shore I found
Some ore in the bank above those runs which I take to be
Iron ore. (3) at this place the Side of the hills has sliped
about half way into [the river for 3/4 of a Mile forming a Clift
from the top of the hill above. In the first bend to the right
passed a Small Island a Sand bar opposit, worthey of remark
as We approach this great River Platt the Sand bars much
more numerous and the quick or moveing Sands much worst
than they were below at the places where Praries approach the
river, it is verry wide those places being much easier to wash
& under mine than the Wood Land's'. (4) passed a Willow

Isd. situated near the middle of the river, and a large Sand
makeing out from the S. S. a Deep bend to the L. S. we
camped at the head of this Island on the Starboard Side of it,[73]
Hunters Killed Two Deer. Saw great numbers of young
Gees, River falling a little.

Course Distance & refrs. July 19th

               

North	1/4	of a Ml to Lowr. pt. of a Isd. L. S. (I)
N 10° W	1 1/4	Ms. to pt. on L. S. sand bar psd. Isd. (1)
N. 45° W	1	Ml. on the L. S. a sand bar on S. S.
N 85° W.	2	Ms. to pt. on S. S. opsd. High land (2)
N 82° W.	3/4	Ml. to the Mo: of a run in bend L. S. (3)
N 13° W.	2 1/2	Ms to pt. L. S. psd. sliped bank (3) (a Island on S. S. a run L S.
N 54° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. Some Clifts passd. a Wil° Isd. in a Deep bend on the L. S. a Sand bar S. S. (4)
	10 3/4

July 20th. Friday 1804—

a cool morning passed a large Willow Island (1) on the S.
S. and the mouth of Creek about 25 yds wide on the L. S.
called by the french l'Eue que [L'Eau qui] pleure, or the Water
which cry's [weeping water], this Creek falls into the river
above a Clift of brown Clay opposit the Willow Island, I
went out above the mouth of this Creek and walked the
greater part of the day thro: Plains interspersed with small
Groves of Timber on the branches, and some scattering trees
about the heads of the runs, I Killed a verry large yellow
Wolf, The Soil of those Praries appears rich but much
Parched with the frequent fires, after I returned to the Boat
we proceeded around a large Sand bar makeing out from
the L. S. opsd. a fountain of water comeing out of a hill L. S.
and affording water Sufficent to turn a mill. The Praries as
far as I was out appeared to be well watered, with small Streems
of running water Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two
Deer this evening. a verry Pleasent Breeze from the N. W
all night, river falling a little. It is worthey of observation
to mention that our Party has been much healthier on the

Voyage than parties of the same number is in any other Situation.
Tumers have been troublesom to them all.

Course distance & refrs.. July 20th..

           

N. 18°. E.	3	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. a Wil: Isd. on S. S. a Creek on L. S. (1)
N. 48°. E	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. of an Isld. opsd. the upr pt. on 2d. Isd. which is divided from it by a narrow Chanl a Deep bend to S. S.
N. 5°. W	3	Ms. to a Lbd. pt. of an Island
North	6	Ms to the pt. of an Isd. on L. S. of sm.
N 18°. W	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L S. high Land psd. the head of an Isd. above is a large Sand bar on L. S. (2)
	18

From this evenings encampment a man may walk to the
Pani [Pawnee] Village on the S bank of the Platt River in two
days, and to the Otteaus in one day,[74] all those Indians are
Situated on the South bank of the Platt River, as those Indians
are now out in the Praries following & Hunting the buffalow,
I fear we will not see them.

July 21st. Satturday 1804—

Set out early under a gentle breeze from the S. E. proceeded
on verry well, passed (1) a willow Island on the L. S. opposit
a bad Sand bar, Some high lands covered with timber L. S.
in this hill is limestone and semented rock of shels &c (2) in
high water the opposit Side is cut thro: by several Small
channels, forming Small Islands, a large Sand bar opposit the
Hill, at 7 oClock the wind luled and it Commns'd raining,
arrived at the lower Mouth of the Great River Platt at 10
oClock, (about 3 Ms. above the Hill of wood land) the Same
range of High land continus within 3/4 of a mile of the Mouth
below This Great river being much more rapid than the
Missourie forces its Current against the opposit Shore. The
Current of this river comes with great velosity roleing its Sands
into the Missouri, filling up its Bead & Compelling it to incroach
on the S [Nortti] Shore, we found great dificuelty in

passing around the Sand at the Mouth of this River. Capt.
Lewis and Myself with 6 men in a perogue went up this Great
river Platt about 2 [one] Miles, found the Current verry
rapid roleing over Sands, passing through different Channels
none of them more than five or Six feet deep, about 900 [600]
yards Wide at the Mouth, I am told by one of our Party
who wintered two winters on this river, that "it is much wider
above, and does not rise more than five or six feet" Spreds
verry wide [with many small islands scattered thro' it,] and from
its rapidity & roleing Sands Cannot be navagated with Boats
or Perogues. The Indians pass this river in Skin Boats which
is flat and will not turn over. The Otteaus a Small nation
reside on the South Side 10 Leagues up, the Panies on the
Same Side 5 Leagues higher up. about 10 Leagues up this
river on the S. Side a Small river Comes into the Platt Called
Salt River, "the water So brackish that it Can't be Drank at
Some Seasons, above this river & on the North Side a Small
river falls into the platt Called Elk (Horn) River this river
runs Parralal withe the Missouri, at 3 miles passed a Small
river on the L. S. Called Papillion or Butterfly C: 18 yds wide
a large Sand bar off the mouth, we proceeded on to get to a
good place to Camp and Delay a fiew days, passed around this
Sand bar: and Came. for the night on the L. S. a verry hard
wind from the N. W. I went on Shore S. S. and proceeded
up one mile thro: high Bottom land open a great number
of wolves about us this evening

Course Distance & Refrs. July 21st.

         

N. 22°. W.	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. opposit a pt. of High land on the L. S.
N. 28°. W.	6 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. a Naked pt. & Wilw. Isl'd (1) on the L. S. & a high p on L S. (2)
N. 39°. W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. just below the Platt river passd a pt. of High Land covd. with wood L S. a Sd bar near the S. S.
N. 8°. W	2	Ms. to a point in the junction of the Platt & Missouri a verry extensive [view— Ed.] up the Platt West & Missourie North Passed many Sand bars in the Mouth Platt river
	15	Ms. to Platt.

July 22nd.. Sunday 1804.—

Set out verry early with a view of Getting Some Situation
above in time to take equal altitudes and take observations, as
well as one Calculated to make our party Comfortable in a
Situation where they Could receve the benefit of a Shade.
passed a large Sand bar opposit a Small river on the L. S. at
3 miles above Platt Called Papillion, or Butterfly Creek a
Sand bar & a Willow Island opposit a Creek 9 Ms. above the
Platt on the S. S. Called Morqueton Creek Prarie on both
Sides of the river, Came too and formed a Camp on the S. S.
above a Small Willow Island, and opposit the first Hill which
aproach the river on the L. S. and covered with timber of Oake
Walnut Elm &c. &c.

This being a good Situation and much nearer the Otteaus
town than the Mouth of the Platt, we Concluded to delay at
this place a fiew days and Send for Some of the Chiefs of that
nation, to let them know of the Change of Government the
wishes of our government to Cultivate friendship with them,
the Objects of our journy and to present them with a flag and
Some Small presents.

Some of our Provisions in the French Perogue being wet it
became necessary to Dry them a fiew days. wind hard from
N W. five Deer Killed to day. the river rise a little.

The Course & Distance from the Plate river to Camp N. 15°. W.
10 Miles, psd. 3 pts. L S. & 2 pts. S. S.