University of Virginia Library

Search this document 
Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

collapse sectionI. 
collapse section 
  
  
  
collapse section 
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
collapse section 
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse sectionII. 
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse sectionIII. 
collapse section 
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse sectionIV. 
collapse section 
[Clark:]
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse sectionV. 
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse sectionVI. 
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
collapse sectionVII. 
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse sectionVIII. 
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  
collapse section 
  

[Clark:]

25th. Sept.—

A FAIR Morning the Wind from the S. E. all well,
raised a Flag Staff & made a orning or Shade on a
Sand bar in the mouth of Teton River, for the purpose
of Speeking with the Indians under, the Boat Crew on
board at 70 yards Distance from the bar The 5 Indians
which we met last night Continued, about 11 OClock the
1t. & 2d. Chief Came we gave them Some of our Provisions to
eat, they gave us great Quantitis of Meet Some of which was
Spoiled we feel much at a loss for the want of an interpeter
the one we have can Speek but little.

Met in Council at 12 oClock and after Smokeing, agreeable
to the useal Custom, Cap. Lewis proceeded to Deliver a
Speech which we [were—Ed.] oblige[d] to Curtail for want
of a good interpeter all our party paraded. gave a Medal to
the Grand Chief Calld. in Indian Un ton gar Sar bar in French
Beeffe nure [Beuffle noir] Black Buffalow. Said to be a good
Man, 2[nd] Chief Torto hon gar or the Parti sin or Partizan
bad the 3rd. is the Beffe De Medison [Beuffe de Medecine]
his name is Tar ton gar Wa ker 1[st]. Considerable Man,
War zing go. 2[nd]. Considerable Man Second Bear—Mato
co que par
.

Envited those Cheifs on board to Show them our boat and
such Curiossities as was Strange to them, we gave them 1/4 a
glass of whiskey which they appeared to be verry fond of,
Sucked the bottle after it was out & Soon began to be troublesom,
one the 2d. Cheif assumeing Drunkness, as a Cloake for
his rascally intentions I went with those Cheifs (in one of the


165

Page 165
Perogues with 5 men3 & 2 Inds.) (which left the boat with
great reluctiance) to Shore with a view of reconsileing those
men to us, as Soon as I landed the Perogue three of their
young Men Seased the Cable of the Perogue, (in which we had
pressents
&c) the Chiefs Soldr. [each Chief has a soldier] Huged
the mast, and the 2d. Chief was verry insolent both in words &
justures (pretended Drunkenness & staggered up against me) declareing
I should not go on, Stateing he had not receved
presents sufficent from us, his justures were of Such a personal
nature I felt My self Compeled to Draw my Sword (and
Made a Signal to the boat to prepare for action
) at this Motion
Capt. Lewis ordered all under arms in the boat, those with
me also Showed a Disposition to Defend themselves and me,
the grand Chief then took hold of the roap & ordered the
young Warrers away, I felt My Self warm & Spoke in verry
positive terms.

Most of the Warriers appeared to have ther Bows strung
and took out their arrows from the quiver. as I (being surrounded)
was not permited (by them) to return, I Sent all the
men except 2 Inps. [Interpreters] to the boat, the perogue
Soon returned with about 12 of our determined men ready for
any event. this movement caused a no: of the Indians to withdraw
at a distance, (leaving their chiefs & soldiers alone with me).
Their treatment to me was verry rough & I think justified
roughness on my part, they all lift my Perogue, and Councild.
with themselves the result I could not lern and nearly all
went off after remaining in this Situation Some time I offered my
hand to the 1. & 2. Chiefs who refusd. to receve it. I turned off
& went with my men on board the perogue, I had not prosd.
more the [than] 10 paces before the 1st. Cheif 3rd. & 2 Brave
Men Waded in after me. I took them in & went on board[1]

We proceeded on about 1 Mile & anchored out off a
Willow Island placed a guard on Shore to protect the Cooks
& a guard in the boat, fastened the Perogues to the boat, I
call this Island bad humered Island as we were in a bad humer.


166

Page 166

Course Distance & reffurences—26th. Sept. 1804 badhd. Isd.

 
N. 28° W.  4 1/2  Miles to a p t.on the L. S. passing a Small Willow
Island at 1 1/2 Miles & Several Sand bars the
Water Shallow came too (1)
 
 
[1]

This paragraph is misplaced in the MS.; it is written on the next page after that
containing the first part of this council with the Indians. We have placed it in
proper position.—Ed.

26th. of September Wednesday 1804—

Set out early proceeded on and Came to by the Wish of
the Chiefs for to let their Squars [squaws] & boys see the
Boat and Suffer them to treat us well great numbers of men
womin & children on the banks viewing us, these people
Shew great anxiety, they appear Spritely, Generally ill looking
& not well made their legs [& arms] Small generally, [high
cheek bones, prominent eyes
] they Grese & Black [paint]
themselves [with coal] when they dress [the distingd. men]
make use of a hawks feathers [Calumet feather adorned with
porcupine quills & fastened to the top of the head & falls backwards
]
about their heads. the men [wear] a robe & each a
polecats Skin, for to hold ther Bawe roley [Bois roule] for
Smoking,[2] fond of Dress & Show badly armed with fusees,
&c. The Squaws are Chearfull fine look'g womin not handsom,
High Cheeks Dressed in Skins a Peticoat and roab
which foldes back over ther Sholder, with long wool, do all
their laborious work & I may Say perfect Slaves to the Men,
as all Squars of Nations much at War, or where the Womin
are more noumerous than the men[3] after Comeing too Capt.
Lewis & 5 men went on Shore with the Cheifs, who appeared
disposed to make up & be friendly, after Captain Lewis had
been on Shore about 3 hours I became uneasy for fear of
Deception & Sent a Serjeant to See him and know his treatment
which he reported was friendly, & they were prepareing
for a Dance this evening The[y] made frequent Selicitiations
for us to remain one night only and let them Show their good


167

Page 167
disposition towards us, we deturmined to remain, after the
return of Capt. Lewis, I went on Shore on landing I was
receved on a elegent painted B.[uffalo] Robe & taken to the
Village by 6 Men & was not permited to touch the ground
untill I was put down in the grand Concill house on a White
dressed Robe. I saw Several Maha Prissners and Spoke to
the Chiefs [telling them that—Ed.] it was necessary to give
those prisoners up & become good friends with the Mahas if
they wished to follow the advice of their great father I was
in Several Lodges neetly formed as before mentioned as to
the Baureily (Bois brulé—Yankton) Tribe. I was met (on
landing from the boat
) by about 10 Well Dressd. young Men
who took me up in a roabe Highly adecreated and Set me
Down by the Side of their Chief on a Dressed Robe in a large
Council House, this house formed a 3/4 Circle of Skins Well
Dressed and Sown together under this Shelter about 70 Men
Set forming a Circle in front of the Cheifs a plac of 6 feet
Diameter was Clear and the pipe of peace raised on (forked)
Sticks (about 6 or 8 inches from the ground) under which there
was swans down scattered, on each Side of this Circle two
Pipes, the (two) flags of Spain 2 & the Flag we gave them
in front of the Grand Chief a large fire was near in which
provisions were Cooking, in the Center about 400lbs. of excellent
Buffalo Beef as a present for us. Soon after they Set me
Down, the Men went for Capt. Lewis brought him in the
same way and placed him also by the Chief in a fiew minits
an old man rose & Spoke aproveing what we had done &
informing us of their situation requesting us to take pity on
them & which was answered. The great Chief then rose with
great State [speaking—Ed.] to the Same purpote as far as
we Could learn & then with Great Solemnity took up the pipe
of Peace & after pointing it to the heavins the 4 quarters of
the Globe & the earth, he made Some disertation, (then made a
Speech
) lit it and presented the Stem to us to Smoke, when
the Principal Chief Spoke with the Pipe of Peace he took in
one hand some of the most Delicate parts of the Dog which
was prepared for the fiest & made a Sacrefise to the flag. [this
sentence misplaced in MS., but properly placed by us.—Ed.]

168

Page 168
after A Smoke had taken place, & a Short Harange to his
people, we were requested to take the Meal (& then put before
us the dog which they had been cooking, & Pemitigon
[4] & ground
potatoe in Several platters Pemn. is Buffa meat dried or jerked
pounded & mixed with grease raw. Dog Sioux think great dish
used on festivals eat little of dog—pemn. & pote good
.) We
Smoked for an hour (till) Dark & all was Cleared away a
large fire made in the Center, about 10 Musitions playing on
tambereens (made of hoops & Skin stretched), long Sticks with
Deer & Goats Hoofs tied so as to make a gingling noise, and
many others of a Similer Kind, those Men began to Sing, &
Beet on the Tamboren, the Women Came foward highly
Deckerated in their Way, with the Scalps and Tropies of War
of their fathers Husbands Brothers or near Connections &
proceeded to Dance the War Dance (Women only dance jump
up & down—five or six young men selected accompanied with
songs the tamborin making the song extempore words & music
every now & then one of the com' come out & repeat some exploit
in a sort of song—this taken up by the young men and the women
dance to it
) which they done with great Chearfullness untill
about 12 oClock when we informed the Cheifs that they were
[must be] fatigued [amusing us] &c. they then retired & we
Accompd. by 4 Cheifs returned to our boat, they Stayed with
us all night. Those people have Some brave men which they
make use of as Soldiers those men attend to the police of the
Village Correct all errors I saw one of them to day whip
2 Squars, who appeared to have fallen out, when he approachd.
all about appeared to flee with great turrow [terror].
at night they keep two 3,4 5 men at different Distances walking
around Camp Singing the accurrunces of the night

All the Men on board 100 paces from Shore Wind from
the S. E. moderate one man verry sick on board with a
Dangerass Abscess on his Hip. All in Spirits this evening.

In this Tribe I saw 25 Squars and Boys taken 13 days ago
in a battle with the Mahars in this battle they Destroyd 40
Lodges, Killed 75 Men, & som boys & Children, & took 48


169

Page 169

Prisoners Womin & boys which they promis both Capt. Lewis
and my self Shall be Delivered up to Mr. Durion at the Bous
rulie (Bois brulé) Tribe,[5] those are a retched and Dejected
looking people the Squars appear low & Corse but this is an
unfavourable time to judge of them

We gave our Mahar inteptr. some fiew articles to give those
Squars in his name Such as Alls, needles &c. &c.

I saw & eat Pemitigon the Dog, Groud. potatoe made into a
Kind of homney, which I thought but little inferior. I also
Saw a Spoon Made of a horn of an Animell of the Sheep
Kind (the mountain ram of Argalia[6] ) the Spoon will hold 2
quarts.

 
[2]

Bais roulé, litenily "rolled wood,"—better known by its Algonkin name,
Kinikinik (Kinnikinnic),—a mixture of tobacco with scrapings or shavings from
warious, woods, especialy that of sumac, red osier, and other dogwoods, and bearberry.
Ed

[3]

Biddle describes in much greater detail (i, pp. 84–90) the costumes and mode
of life of these Teton Indians.—Ed.

[4]

Better known as "pemmican,"—Ed.

[5]

One of the bands of the Teton Sioux.—Ed.

[6]

The Rocky Mountain sheep or argal (Ovis montana.)—Ed.

27th. of Sept. Thursday 1804.—

I rose early after a bad nights Sleep found the Chief [s]
all up, and the bank as useal lined with Spectators we gave
the 2 great Cheifs a Blanket a peace, or rether they took off
agreeable to their Custom the one they lay on and each one
Peck of corn. after Brackfast Capt. Lewis & the Cheifs went
on Shore, as a verry large part of their nation was comeing in,
the Disposition of whome I did not know one of us being
sufficent on Shore, I wrote a letter to Mr. P. Durion & prepared
a meadel & Some Comsns. (Certificates) & Sent to Cap
Lewis at 2 oClock Capt. Lewis Returned with 4 Chiefs & a
Brave Man (Consids Man) named War cha pa or on his Guard
when the friends of those people [the Scioux] die they run
arrows through their flesh above and below their elbows as a
testimony of their Greaf.

after Staying about half an hour, I went with them on Shore,
Those men left the boat with reluctience, I went first to the
2d. Cheifs Lodge, where a croud came around after Speeking
on various Subjects I went to a princpal mans lodge from
them to the grand Chiefs lodge, after a fiew minits he invited
me to a Lodge within the Circle in which I Stayed with all
their principal Men untill the Dance began, which was Similer
to the one of last night performed by their women with poles


170

Page 170
(in their hands) on which Scalps of their enemies were hung,
Some with the Guns Spears & War empliments of (taken by)
their husbands [&c.] in their hands.

Capt. Lewis Came on Shore and we Continued untill we were
Sleepy & returned to our boat, the 2nd. Chief & one principal
Man accompanied us, Those two Indians accompanied me
on board in the Small Perogue; Capt. Lewis with a guard Still
on Shore, the man who Steered not being much acustomed to
Steer, passed the bow of the boat & the peroge Came broad
Side against the Cable & broke it which obliged me to order
in a loud voice all hands up & at their ores, my preemptry
order to the men and the bustle of their getting to their ores
allarmd. the Cheifs, together with the appearance of the Men
on Shore, as the boat turnd. The Cheif hollowaed & allarmed
the Camp or Town informing them that the Mahars was about
attacking us (them). In about 10 minits the bank was lined
with men armed the 1st. Cheif at their head, about 200 men
appeared and after about 1/2 hour returned all but about 60
men who continued on the bank all night, the Cheifs Contd.
all night with us. This allarm I as well as Capt. Lewis Considered
as the Signal of their intentions (which was to Stop our
proceeding on our journey and if Possible rob us) we were
on our Guard all night, the misfortune of the loss of our
Anchor obliged us to Lay under a falling bank much exposd.
to the accomplishment of their hostile intentions. P. C. our
Bowman who cd. Speek Mahar informed us in the night that
the Maha Prisoners informed him we were to be Stoped. we
Shew as little Sighns of a Knowledge of their intentions as
possible all prepared on board for any thing which might
hapen, we kept a Strong guard all night in the boat, no Sleep

28th. of September 1804. Friday

Made many attemps in different ways to find our anchor,
but Could not, the Sand had Covered it, from the Misfortune
of last night our boat was laying at Shore in a verry unfavourable
Situation, after finding that the anchor Could not be
found we deturmined to proceed on, with great difficuelty got


171

Page 171
the Chiefs out of our boat, and when we was about Setting out
the Class Called the Soldiers took possession of the Cable
the 1st. Cheif which was Still on board, & intended to go a
Short distance up with us. I told him the men of his nation
Set on the Cable, he went out & told Capt. Lewis who was
at the bow the men Who Set on the roap was Soldiers, and
wanted Tobacco Capt. L. [said] would not agree to be forced
into any thing, the 2d. Chief Demanded a flag & Tobacco
which we refusd. to Give Stateing proper reasons to them for
it after much Dificuelty—which had nearly reduced us to
necessity to hostilites I threw a Carrot of Tobacco to 1st.
Chief took the port fire from the gunner. Spoke so as to
touch his pride The Chief gave the Tobacco to his Soldiers
& he jurked the rope from them and handed it to the bowsman
we then Set out under a Breeze from the S. E. about 2 miles
up we observed the 3rd. Chief on Shore beckining to us we
took him on board he informed us the roap was held by the
order of the 2d. Chief who was a Double Spoken man, Soon
after we Saw a man Comeing full Speed, thro: the plains left
his horse & proceeded across a Sand bar near the Shore we
took him on board & observed that he was the Son of the
Chief we had on board we Sent by him a talk to the nation
Stateint [stating] the cause of our hoisting the red flag undr. the
white, if they were for peace Stay at home & do as we
had Directed them, if the[y] were for war or were Deturmined
to stop us we were ready to defend our Selves, we halted one
houre & 1/2 on the S. S. & made a Substitute of Stones for
a ancher, refreshed our men and proceeded on about 2 Miles
higher up & Came to a verry Small Sand bar in the middle
of the river & Stayed all night, I am verry unwell for want
of Sleep Deturmined to Sleep to night if possible, the Men
Cooked & we rested well.

Course Distance & reffs.

     
N. 33 W.  Miles to the extmty of a Sand bar on the L. S. passed
a Willow Isld. on the L. S. at the Comse. of the Course.
 
S. 80° W.  Mls. to an object on the bank in a bend to the S. S. at
Some woods, opsd. the High land on the L. S. Camped.
 

172

Page 172

29th. of Septr. Satturday 1804.—

Set out early Some bad Sand bars, proceeded on at 9
oClock we observed the 2d. Chief & 2 principal Men one Man
& a Squar on Shore, they wished to go up with us as far as
the other part of their band, which they Said was on the river
a head not far Distant we refused Stateing verry Sufficint
reasons and was Plain with them on the Subject, they were
not pleased observed that they would walk on Shore to the Place
we intended to Camp to night, we observed it was not our wish
that they Should for if they did we Could not take them or
any other Tetons on board except the one we had now with us
who might go on Shore whenever he pleased. they proceeded
on, the Chief on board askd. for a twist[7] of Tobacco for those
men we gave him 1/2 of a twist, and Sent one by them for
that part of their band which we did not See, & Continued on
Saw great numbers of Elk at the mouth of a Small Creek
Called No timber C—as no timber appeared to be on it
above the mouth of this Creek (a Ricara band of) the Panies
had a Village 5 years ago, (no remains but the mound which surrounded
the town
.) The 2d. Cheif came on the Sand bar &
requested we would put him across the river, I Sent a Perogue
& Crossed him & one Man to the S. S. and proceeded on &
Came too on a Sand bar on about 1/2 Mile from the main Shore
& put on it 2 Sentinals Continud all night at anchor (we
Substitute large Stones for anchors in place of the one we lost
all in high Spirits &c.

Course Distance & refference—29 Septr.

             
S. 60°. W.  Mls. to a pt. on S. S. Passing Several Sand bars. 
N. 80° W.  1 1/4  to a tree on L. S. 
N. 16°. E.  2 1/2  to a pt. on S. S. 
N. 8° W.  1 3/4  to the Mouth of a Creek on the L. S. Where the Panias
had a Town.
 
N. 45°. E.  M1s. to a pt. on the L. Side 
N. 25°. E.  1 1/2  Miles to the Lower pt. of a Willow Island[8] in the
middle of the river.
 
11 

173

Page 173

Course Distance & refferrence—30th. Sept.

                 
N. 30° W.  Miles to a tree at the upper pt. of some woods on the
S. S.
 
N. 80°. W.  1 1/2  Miles on the S. S. 
N. 64°. W.  Mls. to a Bush on L. S. 
N. 46°. W.  1 1/2  Mls. on the L. S. 
N. 10. W.  Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. passed Several Sand bars &
the Camp of a Band of Tetons (1)
 
North  Miles to a tree on the S. S. 
N. 24°. W.  Mls. to a pt. on the L. S. 
N. 50° W.  2 1/2  Mls. to the Lower pt. of Pania Island[9] situated in the
midl. of the river (2) 
20 1/2 
 
[7]

The same as the "carrot" mentioned elsewhere.—Ed.

[8]

Now Okobjou.—Ed.

[9]

Now Cheyenne.—Ed.

30th. of Sept. Sunday 1804—

Set out this morning early had not proceeded on far before
we discovered an Indn. running after us, he came up with us
at 7 oClock & requested to come on bord and go up to the
Recorees[10] we refused to take any of that band on board if
he chose to proceed on Shore it was verry Well Soon after
I descovered on the hills at a great distance great numbers of
Indians which appeared to be makeing to the river above us,
we proceeded on under a Double reafed Sail, & some rain at
9 oClock observed a large band of Indians the Same which I
had before seen on the hills incamping on the bank the L. S.
we Came too on a Sand bar Brackfast & proceeded on & Cast
the anchor opposit their Lodge at about 100 yards distant, and
informed the Indians which we found to be a part of the Band
we had before Seen, that (we) took them by the hand and Sent
to each Chief a Carrot of tobacco, as we had been treated
badly by some of the band below, after Staying 2 days for
them, we Could not delay any time, & referred them to Mr.
Durion for a full account of us and to here our Talk Sent by
him to the Tetons, those were verry selicitious for us to land
and eate with them, that they were friendly &c. &c. we appoligised


174

Page 174
& proceeded on,[11] Sent the Peroge to Shore above
with the Tobacco & Delivd. it to a Soldr. of the Chief with us
Several of them ran up the river, the Chfs. on board threw
them out a Small twist of Tobacco & told them to go back &
open ther ears. they rec[e]ved the Tobacco & returned to
their lodges. we saw great numbers of white Guls This day
is Cloudy & rainey. refresh the men with a glass of whisky
after Brackfast.

We Saw about 6 Miles above 2 Indians who Came to the
bank and looked at us about 1/2 an hour & went over the hills
to the S. W. we proceeded on under a verry Stiff Breeze
from the S. E., the Stern of the boat got fast on a log and
the boat turned & was verry near filling before we got her
righted, the waves being verry high, The Chief on board was
So fritened at the Motion of the boat which in its rocking
Caused Several loose articles to fall on the Deck from the
lockers, he ran off and hid himself, we landed, he got his gun
and informed us he wished to return, that all things were
cleare for us to go on, we would not see any more Tetons &c.
we repeated to him what had been Said before, and advised
him to keep his men away, gave him a blanket a Knife & some
Tobacco, Smokd. a pipe & he Set out. We also Set Sale and
Came to at a Sand bar, & Camped, a verry Cold evening, all
on guard.

Course Distance & reffurence—1st. October

           
N. 80° W.  Mls. to the upper pt. of a large Island in the River. (1)[12]  
N. 70° W.  Mls. to the Mouth of Chien or Dog River[13] on the
L.S. (2)[12].
 
N. 16°. W.  2 1/2  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. Passed verry bad Sand
bars
 
N. 50° E.  Mile to Some Willows on the L. S. passed 2 Creeks
on the L. S. the upper Small.
 
S. 53° E.  4 1/2  Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. passing a Bluff on the L.S. 
16 

175

Page 175

Sand bars are So noumerous, that it is impossible to describe
them, & think it unnecessary to mention them.

 
[10]

Otherwise called Ricaree, Ree, or, more correctly, Arikara; Lewis says
("Statistical View," p. 23) that they are "the remains of ten large tribes of Panias
(Pawnees);" and estimates that they then (1806) numbered 500 warriors, or 2,000
souls. Cf. Biddle's account of their migrations (1, 104).—Ed.

[11]

Passed 60 Lodges of Tetons, the remainder of the band.— Clark (memorandum
on p. 225 of Codex C).

[12]

In MS., these figures are misplaced.—Ed.

[13]

Erroneously thus named, from the resemblance of the French word chien (dog) to the tribal name Cheyenne.—Ed.

1st. of October Monday 1804—

The wind blew hard all last night from the S. E. verry cold
Set out early the wind Still hard, passed a large Island in the
middle of the river (1) opsd. the lower point of this Island the
Recrerees formerly lived in a large Town on the L. S. (remains
only a mound circular walls 3 or 4 feet high
) above the head of
the Island about 2 miles we passed the (2) River Chien (or
Dog River) (Chayenne) L. S. this river Comes in from the
S. W. and is about 400 yards wide, the Current appears gentle
throwing out but little Sands, and appears to throw out but
little water the heads of this River is not known (in the second
range of the Côte Noir its course generally about East. So
called from the Chayenne Indians who live on the heads of it
)
a part of the nation of Dog Indians live some distance up this
river, the precise distance I cant learn, above the mouth of
this river the Sand bars are thick and the water Shoal the
river Still verry wide and falling a little we are obliged to
haul the boat over a Sand bar, after makeing Several attempts
to pass. the wind So hard we Came too & Stayed 3 hours
after it Slackened a little we proceeded on round a bend, the
wind in the after part of the Day a head. (2) passed a Creek
on the L. S. which we Call the Sentinal, this part of the river
has but little timber, the hills not so high, the Sand bars more
noumerous, & river more than one mile Wide including the
Sand bars. (2) pass a Small Creek above the latter which we
Call lookout C. Continued on with the wind imediately a head,
and Came too on a large Sand bar in the middle of the river,
we Saw a man opposit to our Camp on the L. S. which we
discovd. to be a Frenchman, a little of [f] (from Shore among)
the Willows we observed a house, we Call to them to come
over, a boy came in a canoe & informed that 2 frenchmen
were at the house with good[s] to trade with the Seauex which
he expected down from the rickerrees everry day, Sever'l
large parties of Seauex Set out from the rees for this place to
trade with those men.


176

Page 176

This Mr. Jon Vallie[14] informs us that he wintered last winter
300 Leagues up the Chien River under the Black mountains,
he informs that this river is verry rapid and dificuelt even for
Perogues [Canoos] to assend and when riseing the Swels is
verry high, one hundred Leagues up it forks one fork
Comes from the S. the other at 40 Leagues above the forks
enters the black Mountain. The Countrey from the Missourie
to the black mountains is much like the Countrey on the
Missourie, less timber. & a great perpotion of Ceder.

The black mountains he Says is verry high, and Some parts
of it has Snow on it in the Summer great quantities of Pine
Grow on the Mountains, a great Noise is heard frequently
on those Mountains". No beever on Dog river, on the
Mountains great numbers of goat, and a kind of anamale
with large circular horns, this animale is nearly the Size of an
[Small] Elk. [Argalea] White bears is also plenty The
Chien (Chayenne) Inds. are about 300 Lodges[15] they inhabit this
river principally, and Steel horses from the Spanish Settlements,
to the S W. this excurtion they make in one month
the bottoms & Sides of R Chien is corse gravel. This frenchman
gives an account of a white booted turkey an inhabitent
of the Cout Noir (Prairie Cock)

 
[14]

Evidently meant for Jean Vallé—probably a relative of the François Vallé who
was commandant at Ste. Genevieve at the time when that post was delivered by the
Spaniards to the United States authorities.—Ed.

[15]

The Cheyenne tribe is (like the Arapaho) of Algonquian stock. Powell thinks
that these savages, having early separated from their kindred at the North, forced their
way through hostile tribes, across the Missouri, into the Black Hills country—thus
locating between the Siouan and the Shoshonean tribes. See Mooney's account of
this tribe, in U. S. Bur. Ethnol. Rep., 1892–93, pp. 1023–1027. —Ed.

1st. of October Monday 1804 at the Mouth of River Chien or Dog R[16]

We proceeded now from the mouth of this river 11 miles
and camped on a Sand bar in the river opposit to a Tradeing
house verry windy & cold. 11 miles above —Chien R[16]


177

Page 177

Course Distance and refferrens.—2nd. of Octr.

         
S. 70°. E.  2 1/2  Miles to a wood on the L. Side pass a large Sand bar
in the middle & a Willow Isd. close under the L. S.
 
S. 80° E.  1 1/2  Mls. on the L. S. 
N. 62. E.  Miles on the L. S. a Willow bottom opposit on the S. S. 
N. 15° E.  Miles to the L. Side of an Island Situated near the S. S.
& 1 Ml. above the lower point of the Sd. Island (1)
 
N. 28°. E.  Miles to the pt. of a Sand bar Makeing from the head
12 of the Island & Camped (2)
 
 
[16]

This paragraph is found on p. 2 of Codex C.—Ed.

2nd of October Tuesday 1804—

a Violent wind all night from the S. E. Slackened a little and
we proceeded on Mr. Jon Vallie Came on board and proceeded
on 2 Miles with us, a verry Cold morning Some black Clouds
flying took a Meridian altitude & made the Lattitude 44°
19′ 36″. North this was taken at the upper part of the gouge
of the Lookout bend, the Sentinal heard a Shot over the
hills to the L. S. dureing the time we were Dineing on a large
Sand bar. the after part of this day is pleasant, at 2 oClock
opposit a Wood on the L. S. we observed Some Indians on a
hill on the S. S. one Came down to the river opposit to us
and fired off his gun, & beckend. to us to Come too, we
payed no attention to him he followed on Some distance,
we Spoke a few words to him, he wished us to go a Shore
and to his Camp which was over the hill and Consisted of 20
Lodges,[17] we excused our Selves advised him to go and here
our talk of Mr. Durion, he enquired for traders we informed
him one was in the next bend below. & parted, he returned,
& we proceeded on (1) passed a large Island, on the S.S.
here we expected the Tetons would attempt to Stop us and
under that idear we prepared our selves for action which we
expected every moment. opsd. this Island on the L. S. a Small
Creek Coms in, This Island we call Isd. of Caution[18] we took
in Some wood on a favourable Situation where we Could


178

Page 178
defend our Men on Shore & (2) Camped on a Sand bar 1/2 a
Mile from the main Shore the Wind changed to the N. W.
& rose verry high and Cold which Continud. The Current
of the Missourie is less rapid & Contains much less sediment,
of the Same Colour.

 
[17]

Gass says (p. 68) : "He said he belonged to the Jonkta or Babarole band,"
probably referring to the Yankton.—Ed.

[18]

Now Plum Island.—Ed.

2nd. of October Tuesday 1804[19]

Proceeded on as mentioned in Journal No. 2 twelve miles
camped above a large Island on a Sand bar, verry windy and
cold the after part of this day, the mid day verry warm. The
Lattitude as taken to day is 44° 19′ 36″ observe great caution
this day expecting the Seaux intentions some what hostile
towards our progression, The river not so rapid as below the
Chien, its width nearly the same. 12 miles

3rd of October Wednesday 1804.—Wind blew hard all night from
the N. W. Some rain and verry Cold we Set out at 7 oClock &
proceeded on

         
N. 50° E.  2 1/2  M1s to a pt. of Wood on the L. S. 
N. 54 E  Miles to a tree in a bend S. S. 
North  Miles to a pt. High Land on L. S. wind hard a head
Came too & Dined.
 
N. 22°. W.  4 1/2  Miles to the head of good hope Island. 2 Indians
Came to the mouth of a Creek on the S. S.
 
11  Shields 
 
[19]

This entry is found on p. 2 of Codex C.—Ed.

3rd.. of October Wednesday 1804[20]

The N. W. wind blew verry hard all night with Some rain
a cold morning, we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on
at 12 oclock landed on a Bare L. S. examined the Perogus
& focatle (forecastle) of the (boat) to See if the mice had done
any damage, Several bags cut by them corn scattered &c
Some of our clothes also spoiled by them, and papers &c, &c.
at 1 oClock an Indian came to the bank S. S. with a turkey
on his back, four others Soon joined him, we attempted
several chanels and could not find water to assend, landed on


179

Page 179
a Sand bar & concluded to Stay all night, & Send out and
hunt a chanell, some rain this afternoon. Saw Brant and
white gulls flying Southerly in large flocks.

Course Distance & reffurences. 3 rd

         
N. 50°. E  2 1/2  miles to a point of wood on the Larboard Side. 
N. 54°. E  miles to a tree in the bend to the Larboard Side. 
North  miles to a point of high Land on the Larboard Side. 
N. 22°. W.  1 1/2  miles on the L. Side under a Bluff. 
8 miles 
 
[20]

At this point the journal is continued in Codex C, the last entry therein being
dated April 7, 1805.—Ed.

4th.. of October Thursday 1804—

the wind blew all night from the NW. some rain, we were
obliged to Drop down 3 miles to get the Chanel Suft. deep to
pass up, Several Indians on the Shore viewing of us called
to us to land one of them gave 3 yels & Sciped [skipped] a
all before us, we payed no attention to him, proceeded on
and came too on the L. S. to brackf't one of those Indians
swam across to us beged for Powder, we gave him a piece of
Tobacco & Set him over on a Sand bar, and set out,. the
wind hard ahead (1) passed a Island in the middle of the river
about 3 miles in length, we call Good hope Island, (2) at 4
miles passed a (2) Creek on the L. S. about 12 yards wide
Capt. Lewis and 3 men walked on Shore & crossed over to an
(3) Island situated on the S. S. of the current & near the center
of the river this Isld. is about 1 1/2 miles long & nearly 1/2 as
wide, in the Center of this Island was an old village of the
rickeries called La hoo catt it was circular and walled containing
17 lodges and it appears to have been deserted about five
years, the Island contains but little timber. we camped on
the Sand bar makeing from this Island, the day verry cool

Course Distance & reffurences, 4th.. Octr.

       
N. 18°. W.  8 1/2  miles to a pt. on the S. S. passed an Island Goodhope
in the middle of the river (1)
 
N. 12°. E.  1 1/2  miles on the S. S. passed a creek on the L. S. (2) 
N. 45°. E.  miles on the S. pt. passed an Island on which there
was a Village (3) of Ricreries in the year 1797.
La hoo-catt
 
12 

180

Page 180

5th.. of October, Friday 1804—

Frost this morning, we Set out early and proceeded on
(1) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. at 7 oClock heard
some yels proceeded on Saw 3 Indians of the Teton band,
they called to us to come on Shore, beged Some Tobacco, we
answd. them as useal and proceeded on, passed (2) a Creek on
the S. S. at 3 mls. above the mouth we saw one white Brant
in a gang of about 30, the others all as dark as usial, a Discription
of this kind of Gees or Brant shall be given here after
Saw a gang of Goats Swiming across the river out of which we
killed four they were not fatt. in the evening passed a Small
(3) Island Situated close to the L. Side, at the head of this
Isd. a large Creek coms in on the L. S. saw white Brants, we
call this Creek white Brant Creek. I walked on the Isd. found
it Covered with wild Rye, I Shot a Buck, Saw a large gang
of Goat on the hills opposit, one Buck killed, also a Prarie
wolf this evening. The high Land not so high as below, river
about the Same width, the Sand bars as noumerous, the earth
Black and many of the Bluffs have the Appearance of being
on fire. We came too and camped on a mud bar makeing
from the S. S. the evening is calm and pleasent, refreshed
the men with a glass of whiskey.

Course Distance & reffurences.—5th.. October

               
N. 63°. E.  1 1/2  under Some high land on the S. S. 
East.  miles to a point of Timber on the L. S. passed a
creek on the L. S. (I) high land on the S. S.
 
N. 80 E  1 1/2 mls to a Tree in the bend to the S. S. 
N. 36°. W.  2 mls to a pt. of high land on the L. S. passd a creek on
the S. S. (2) 
N. 50°. W.  miles to a Point to the S. S. 
N. 17°. W.  3 mls to a tree on the S. S. passd. a Small Island close
on the L. S. above the Sd. Island a Creek comes
in on the L. S. 
N. 16°. E.  mls. to a pt. on the L. Side opposit a Willow Island
Situated near the S. Shore 
20 

181

Page 181

6th.. October Satturday 1804.—

a cool morning wind from the North Set out early passed
a willow Island (1) Situated near the S. Shore at the upper
point of Som timber on the S. S. many large round Stones
near the middle of the river, those Stones appear to have been
washed from the hills (2) passed a Village of about 80 neet
Lodges covered with earth and picketed around, those loges
are Spicious [spacious—Ed.] of an Octagon form as close
together as they can possibly be placed and appear to have
been inhabited last Spring, from the Canoes of Skins Mats
buckits &c. found in the lodges, we are of oppinion they were
the recrereis We found Squashes of 3 Different Kinds growing
in the Village, one of our men Killed an Elk close by
this Village, I saw 2 wolves in persute of another which
appeared to be wounded and nearly tired, we proceeded on
found the river Shole we made Several attempts to find the
main Channel between the Sand bars, and was obliged at length
to Drag the boat over to Save a league which we must return
to get into the deepest Channel, we have been obgd. to hunt a
Chanl. for Some time past the river being devided in many
places in a great number of Chanels, Saw Gees, Swan, Brants,
& Ducks of Different Kinds on the Sand bars to day, Capt.
Lewis walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Prarie hens, I
observe but fiew Gulls or Pleover in this part of the river,
The Corvos or Magpye is verry Common in this quarter.
We camped on a large Sand bar off the mouth of Beaver or
Otter Creek, on the S.S. this creek is about 22 yards wide
at the mouth and contains a greater perpotion of Water than
common for creeks of its Sise[21]

Course Distance and Reffurences— 6th Octr.

         
N. 4°. E  miles to a point of woodland on the L. S. passed a
willow Isd. S. S. 
N. 8°. W.  Ml. on the L. Side. 
N. 32°. W.  Ms. to a point on the S. S. Passed an old Village of
the Rickorrees at the Comst. of this Course (2) 
N. 40°. W.  2 1/2  Miles the Mouth of Beaver (otter Creek) on the S.S. 
14 1/2  a large Sand bar opposit 
 
[21]

Now Swan Creek, in Walworth C.—Coues (L. and C., i, p. 155).


182

Page 182

7th of October Sunday 1804—

a Cloudy morning, Some little rain frost last night, we
Set out early proceeded on 2 miles to the mouth of a (1)
River on the L.S. and brackfast this river when full is 90
yards wide the water is at this time Confined within 20 yards,
the Current appears jentle, this river throws out but little
Sand. at the mouth of this river we Saw the Tracks of white
bear which was verry large, I walked up this river a mile.
below the (2) mouth of this river is the remains of a Rickorree
Village or Wintering Camp fortified in a circular form of about
60 Lodges, built in the Same form of those passed yesterday
This Camp appears to have been inhabited last winter, many
of their willow and Straw mats, Baskets & Buffalow Skin
Canoes remain intire within the Camp, the Ricaries call this
river Sur-war-kar-na or Park[22] . [R?]

Course Distance & Reffurences—7th October

                 
N. 42° W.  Miles to the Mouth of a River Caled Sur war car na
in a bend to the L. S. (I) a village at Mo: (2)
 
N. 30° E.  3 1/2  Mls. to a Clump of bushes in a bend to the S. S. passing
for 3/4 mile on the L. S.
 
N. 30° W.  miles to a pt of high land on the L. Side,
passed a willow Island (3)
 
N. 35° W.  on the L. Side passed a Sand bar on the S. S.
(4) 
N. 10° W.  mile on the L. S. to a pt. 
N. 80° W.  miles to the left Side of an Island (5) in the mid river 
N. 45° W.  Mile to the head of the Willows at the head of the S.
Grouse Isld.
 
West  2 1/2  miles to a point on the main S. S. a large Sand bar
from the upper point of the Island high land on
both Sides opposit this Island.
 
22 

from this river (which heads in the 1st. black mountains) we
proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S.W. at
10 oClock we Saw 2 Indians on the S.S. they asked for something
to eat, & informed us they were part of the Beiffs De
Medesons
(Beuffles de Medecines) Lodge on their way to the


183

Page 183
Rickerrees passed (3) a Willow Island in a bend to the S.S.
(4) at 5 Miles passd. a willow Island on the S.S. Wind hard
from the South in the evening I walked on an (5) Island
nearly the middle of the river Called Grous Island, (the walls
of a village on this island
) one of the men killed a Shee
Brarow,[23] another man Killed a Black tail Deer, the largest
Doe I ever Saw, (Black under her breast) this Island is
nearly 1 1/4 mls. Squar no timber high and Covered with grass
wild rye and contains Great Numbers of Grouse, we proceeded
on a Short distance above the Island and Camped on
the S.S. a fine evening.

 
[22]

Now Owl, or Moreau, River.—Ed.

[23]

Corrupt form of blaireau (the badger).—Ed.

8th.. of October Monday 1804.—

a cool morning Set out early the wind from the N.W.
proceeded on, passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L.S.
about 2 1/2 miles above Grouse Island, (3) passed a Willow
Island which divides the Current equilly. (2) passed the
mouth of a River called by the Ricares We tar hoo[24] on the
L.S. this river is 120 yards wide, the water of which at this
time is Confined within 20 yards, dischargeing but a Small
quantity, throwing out mud with Small propotion of Sand,
great quantities of the red Berries, ressembling Currents, are
on the river in every bend. 77° 33′. 00″ Lattitude from the
obsevation of to day at the mouth of this river (heads in the
Black mount'n
) is 45° 39′.5″North. proceeded on passed a
(3) Small river of 25 yards wide Called (4) Rear par or Beaver
Dam R: this river [Ma ro pa][25] is entirely chocked up with
mud, with a Streem of 1 Inch Diamiter passing through, descharging
no Sand, at 1 (5) mile passed the lower pint of
an Island close on the L.S. 2 of our men discovered the
ricckerree village, about the Center of the Island on the L
Side on the main Shore. this Island is about 3 miles long,
Seperated from the L.S. by a Channel of about 60 yards wide
verry Deep, The Isld. is covered with fields, where those
People raise their Corn Tobacco Beens &c. &c. Great numbers


184

Page 184
of those people came on the Island to See us pass, we
passed above the head of the Island & Capt. Lewis with 2
interpeters & 2 men went to the Village I formed a Camp of
the french & the guard on Shore, with one Sentinal on board
of the boat at anchor, a pleasent evening all things arranged
both for Peace or War, This Village (6) is Situated about
the center of a large Island near the L. Side & near the foot
of Some high bald uneaven hills, Several french men Came
up with Capt. Lewis in a Perogue, one of which is a Mr. Gravellin[26]
a man well versed in the language of this nation and gave
us some information relitive to the Countrey nat[i]on &c.

Courses Distance and reffurences.—8th.. Octr

               
N. 70°. W  Miles to a tree in the bend to the L. Side, passed a
small Creek L. S. (I) 
N. 10°. W.  miles to the pt. on the S. S. 
N. 15°. E.  2 1/2  to the mo: of a River [We ter hoo 120 yds wide] in
the bend to the L. S. (2) passing over a willow
Island (3) 
N. 40°. E.  mile on the L. Side 
N. 30° E  mile on the L. S. to the Mouth of a Small river [Ma-ro-pa]
(4) 
N. 15°. E  mile to the lower pt. of an Isd. (5) 
North  3 1/2  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. passd. the head of the Isd. and
the 1st. rickorries Village (6) oppsd a Creek we
Call after the 1st. Chief Ka kaw iss assa Creek. L. S. 
12 
 
[24]

Now Grand River; an Indian agency of the same name at its mouth.—Ed.

[25]

Known as Rampart Creek, and Oak Creek.—Ed.

[26]

Joseph Gravelines, a trader residing among the Anrikara tribe, in company with
Antoine Tabeau (Tabo), who is mentioned below.—Ed.