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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
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Saturday May 4th. 1805.
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Saturday May 4th. 1805.

We were detained this morning untill about 9 OCk. in order
to repare the rudder irons of the red perogue which were
broken last evening in landing; we then set out, the wind
hard against us. I walked on shore this morning, the weather
was more plesant, the snow has disappeared; the frost seems
to have effected the vegetation much less than could have been


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expected the leaves of the cottonwood the grass the box alder
willow and the yellow flowering pea seem to be scarcely
touched; the rosebushes and honeysuckle seem to have sustaned
the most considerable injury. The country on both
sides of the Missouri continues to be open level fertile and
beautifull as far as the eye can reach which from some of the
eminences is not short of 30 Miles. the river bottoms are
very extensive and contain a much greater proportion of timber
than usual; the fore part of this day the river was bordered
with timber on both sides, a circumstance which is extreemly
rare and the first which has occurred of any thing like the same
extent since we left the Mandans. in the after part of the day
we passed an extensive beautifull plain on the Stard. side which
gradually ascended from the river. I saw immence quantities
of buffaloe in every direction, also some Elk deer and goats;
having an abundance of meat on hand I passed them without
firing on them; they are extreemly gentle the bull buffaloe
particularly will scarcely give way to you. I passed several in
the open plain within fifty paces, they viewed me for a moment
as something novel and then very unconcernedly continued to
feed. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening and did not
rejoin us untill after dark, he struck the river several miles
above our camp and came down to us. we saw many beaver
some [of] which the party shot, we also killed two deer today.
much sign of the brown bear. passed several old Indian hunting
camps in the course of the day one of them contained
two large lodges which were fortifyed with old driftwood and
fallen timber; this fortification consisted of a circular fence of
timber lade horizontally laping on and over laying each other
to the hight of 5 feet. these pounds are sometimes built from
20 to 30 feet in diameter and covered over with the trunks
and limbs of old timber. the usual construction of the lodges
we have lately passed is as follows. three or more strong sticks
the thickness of a man's leg or arm and about 12 feet long are
attatched together at one end by a with of small willows, these
are then set on end and spread at the base, forming a circle of
ten twelve or 14 feet in diameter; sticks of driftwood and
fallen timber of convenient size are now placed with one end

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on the ground and the other resting against those which are
secured together at top by the with and which support and
give the form to the whole, thus the sticks are laid on untill
they make it as thick as they design, usually about three
ranges, each piece breaking or filling up the interstice of the
two beneath it, the whole forming a connic figure about 10 feet
high with a small apperture in one side which answers as a
door. leaves bark and straw are sometimes thrown over the
work to make it more complete, but at best it affords a very
imperfect shelter particularly without straw which is the state
in which we have most usually found them.

Courses and distances of the 4th. of May

             
S. 80°. W.  to a point of timber on the Stard. side  3. 
S. 72°. W.  to a point of woodland on the Stard. side river wide
and filled with sandbars
 
5. 
S. 50°. W.  to the mouth of a small creek in a deep bend on Lard.
side, a sand Island opposite
 
1 1/2 
N. 10°. W.  to a point of woodland on the Lard. side passing a
Stard. point at 1 1/4 miles
 
3. 
S. 45°. W.  to a willow point on the Stard. side, the river making
a considerable bend to the N. an open plain on
the Stard.
 
S. 70°. W.  to a point of timbered land on the Stard. where we
encamped.
 
1 1/2 
Miles  18. 

At noon the sun was so much obscured that I could not
obtain his maridian Altitude which I much wished in order to
fix the latitude of the entrance of Porcupine river. Joseph
Fields was very sick today with the disentary had a high fever
I gave him a doze of Glauber salts, which operated very well,
in the evening his fever abated and I gave him 30 drops of
laudnum.