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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
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[Lewis:]
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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[Lewis:]

Monday September 17th. 1804.

Having for many days past confined myself to the boat, I
determined to devote this day to amuse myself on shore with
my gun and view the interior of the country lying between the
river and the Corvus Creek, accordingly before sunrise I set
out with six of my best hunters, two of whom I dispatched to
the lower side of Corvus creek, two with orders to hunt the
bottums and woodland on the river, while I retained two
others to acompany me in the intermediate country. one
quarter of a mile in rear of our camp which was situated in a
fine open grove of cotton wood passed a grove of plumb trees
loaded with fruit and now ripe, observed but little difference
betwen this fruit and that of a similar kind common to the
Atlantic States. the trees are smaller and more thickly set.
this forrest of plumb trees garnish a plain about 20 feet more
elivated than that on which we were encamped; this plain
extends back about a mile to the foot of the hills one mile
distant and to which it is gradually ascending this plane
extends with the same bredth from the creek below to the
distance of near three miles above parrallel with the river,
and it is intirely occupyed by the burrows of the barking
squiril hertefore described; this anamal appears here in infinite
numbers and the shortness and virdu[r]e of grass gave the


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plain the appearance throughout it's whole extent of beatifull
bowling-green in fine order. it's aspect is S. E. a great
number of wolves of the small kind, halks [hawks—Ed.] and
some pole-cats were to be seen. I presume that those anamals
feed on this squirril. found the country in every direction for
about three miles intersected with deep revenes and steep
irregular hills of 100 to 200 feet high; at the tops of these
hills the country breakes of[f] as usual into a fine leavel plain
extending as far as the eye can reach. from this plane I had
an extensive view of the river below, and the irregular hills
which border the opposite sides of the river and creek. the
surrounding country had been birnt about a month before and
young grass had now sprung up to hight of 4 Inches presenting
the live green of the spring to the West a high range of
hills, strech across the country from N. to S. and appeared
distant about 20 miles; they are not very extensive as I could
plainly observe their rise and termination no rock appeared
on them and the sides were covered with virdu[r]e similar to
that of the plains this senery already rich pleasing and beatiful
was still farther hightened by immence herds of Buffaloe,
deer Elk and Antelopes which we saw in every direction feeding
on the hills and plains. I do not think I exagerate when
I estimate the number of Buffaloe which could be compre[hend]ed
at one view to amount to 3000. my object was
if possible to kill a female Antelope having already procured a
male; I pursued my rout on this plain to the west flanked by
my two hunters untill eight in the morning when I made the
signal for them to come to me which they did shortly after.
we rested our selves about half an hour, and regailed ourselves
on half a bisquit each and some jirks of Elk which we had
taken the precaution to put in our pouches in the morning
before we set out, and drank of the water of a small pool
which had collected on this plain from the rains which had
fallen some days before. we had now after various windings
in pursuit of several herds of antelopes which we had seen on
our way made the distance of about eight miles from our camp.
we found the Antelope extreemly shye and watchfull insomuch
that we had been unable to get a shot at them; when at rest

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they generally seelect the most elivated point in the neighbourhood,
and as they are watchfull and extreemly quick of sight
and their sense of smelling very accute it is almost impossible
to approach them within gunshot; in short they will frequently
discover and flee from you at the distance of three
miles. I had this day an opportunity of witnessing the agility
and the superior fleetness of this anamal which was to me
really astonishing. I had pursued and twice surprised a small
herd of seven, in the first instance they did not discover me
distinctly and therefore did not run at full speed, tho' they
took care before they rested to gain an elivated point where it
was impossible to approach them under cover, except in one
direction and that happened to be in the direction from which
the wind blew towards them; bad as the chance to approch
them was, I made the best of my way towards them, freqeuntly
peeping over the ridge with which I took care to
conceal myself from their view the male, of which there was
but one, frequently incircled the summit of the hill on which
the females stood in a group, as if to look out for the approach
of danger. I got within about 200 paces of them when they
smelt me and fled; I gained the top of the eminence on which
they stood, as soon as possible from whence I had an extensive
view of the country the antilopes which had disappeared
in a steep reveene now appeared at the distance of about three
miles on the side of a ridge which passed obliquely across me
and extended about four miles, so soon had these antelopes
gained the distance at which they had again appeared to my
view I doubted at ferst that they were the same that I had just
surprised, but my doubts soon vanished when I beheld the
rapidity of their flight along the ridge before me it appeared
reather the rappid flight of birds than the motion of quadrupeds.
I think I can safely venture the asscertion that the
speed of this anamal is equal if not superior to that of the
finest blooded courser. this morning I saw[30]


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Course Distance & refference 18th. Septr.

           
N. 45. E.  M. to the lower pt. of an Island (1) 
N. 25°. E.  Miles to a pt. on the L. S. passed the Isld. at one mile
and some Sand bars making from it, a Creek on
the S. S. opsd. the upper point. 
N. 14°. E.  1 1/2  Mls. to a pt. of Willows on the L. Side. 
N. 10. W.  1 1/2  Mls. to a point of wood on the L. S. 
N. 22. W.  Mile to a pt. on the L. S. and the upper part of the
timber. 
 
[30]

The sentence remains unfinished. At the bottom of the page is a memorandum:
"This a part of No. 2"—Ed.

September 18th. Tuesday 1804—

Wind from the N W. we Set out early the boat much
lightened, the wind a head proceed on verry Slowly (1)
Passed an Island about the middle of the river at 1 Mile this
Island is about a Mile long, and has a great perpotion of red
Ceder on it,[31] a Small Creek comes in on the S. S. opposit the
head of the Island, proceeded on passed many Sand bars and
Camped on the L. S. before night the wind being verry hard
& a head all Day. the hunters Killed 10 Deer to day and a
Prarie wolf, had it all jurked & Skins Stretchd. after Camping.

I walked on Shore Saw Goats, Elk, Buffalow, Black tail
Deer, & the Common Deer, I Killed a Prarie Wollf, about
the Size of a gray fox bushey tail head & ears like a Wolf,
Some fur Burrows in the ground and barks like a Small Dog.

What has been taken heretofore for the Fox was those
Wolves, and no Foxes has been Seen; The large Wolves
are verry numourous, they are of a light colr. large & has long
hair with Coarse fur.[32]

Some Goats of a Different Kind wer Seen yesterday great
many Porcupin rabits & Barking Squirils in this quarter.
Plumbs & grapes.


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Course Distance & refferences Sept. 19th.

                 
N. 50° W.  Miles to a pt. of wood on the S. S. opposit is a Bluff
on L. S. (1) 
North  Miles to the Lower pt. of prospect Island opsd. the 3
rivers on the S. S. (2) 
N. 30° W.  2 1/2  Miles to the Upper pt. of the Island psd. the 3
rivers. (2) 
N. 43°. W.  Miles on the L. S. passd. a Creek (3) 
N. 54°. W.  Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. 
N. 70°. W.  Mls to a Bluff on the L. S. passed a Creek (4) 
West -  3 1/2  Mls. to a timber on the L. S. passed a Creek (5) 
N. 50°. W.  3 1/4  Mls. to the Upper pt. of an Island at the Commencemt of
the Big bend. (6) 
26 1/4 
 
[31]

On this island was the old site of Fort Recovery; on the west bank of the river
was Fort Cedar (aux Cèdres), a post of the Missouri Fur Company.—Coues (L.
and C
., i, p. 122).

[32]

The prairie wolf, or coyote (Canis latrans), and the great gray Western wolf
(C. lupus occidentalis); the latter was wont to prowl about buffalo herds.—Ed.

19th. of September Wednesday 1804—

Set out early, a cool morning verry clear the wind from the
S. E. a Bluff on the L. S. here commences a Butifull Countrey
on both Sides of the Missourie. (2) passed a large Island
called Prospect Island opposit this Isd. the 3 rivers Coms in,
passing thro a butifull Plain, here I walked on Shore &
Killed a fat Cow & Sent her to the boat and proceeded on to
the first of the 3 rivers, this river is about 35 yards wide contains
a good deel of water, I walked up this river 2 miles &
cross, the bottom is high and rich Some timber, I crossed &
returned to the mouth, & proceeded up one mile to the 2d. river
which is Small 12 yards wide, and on it but little timber, on
this Creek the Sioux has frequently Camped, as appears by
the Signs. the lands between those two Creeks is a purpendicular
bluff of about 80 feet with a butifull Plain & gentle
assent back. a Short distance above the 2nd. a 3rd. Creek Comes
into the river in 3 places scattering its waters over the large
timbered bottom, this Creek is near the Size of the Middle
Creek Containing a greater quantity of water, those rivers is
the place that all nations who meet are at peace with each other,
called the Seoux pass of the 3 rivers.[33]


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The boat proceeded on passd. the Island (3) passed a Creek
15 yds. Wide on the L. Side (4) passed a Creek on the L.
S. 20 yards wide which I call Elm Creek passing thro' a high
Plain (5) passed a Creek on the L. S. 18 yds. above which the
boat Came too, I joined them late at night, and Call this
Creek Night Creek the wind favourable all Day, I killed
a fat buck Elk late and could only get his Skin and a Small
part of his flesh to Camp. My Servent Killed a Buck, the
Crew in the boat Killed 2 buffalow in the river. The Hunters
on Shore Killed 4 Deer with black tails one of which was a
Buck with two main Prongs on each Side forked equally,
which I never before Seen. I saw Several large gangs of
Buffalow 2 large Herds of Elk & goats &c. (6) pass a Small
Island on the S. S. opposit to this Island on the L. S. a
Creek of about 10 yards wide Coms in passing thro a plain in
which great quantites of the Prickley Pear grows, I call this
Creek Prickley Pear Creek, this Isld. is called the lower Island
it is Situated at the Commencement of what is Called &
Known by the Grand de Tortu [Detour] or Big Bend of the
Missourie.

Course Distance and refferences—20th. Sept. (Big Bend)
From the lower Islands upper pt.

                     
North  Mls. to a pt. on the L. S. Passed one on the S. S. above
the Island about one & 1/2 Mls
N. 10°. W.  1 1/2  Mls. on the L. Side 
N. 22°. W.  Mls. on the L. Side pd. a sd. br
N. 60°. W  Mls. on the L. Side. 
West  Mls. on the L. S. 
S. 73° W.  3 1/2  Mls. on the L. Side 
South  Mls. on the L. S. passed a Small Island on the L. S. a
Small run opsd. S. S. (1) 
S. 74°. E.  3 1/2  Mls. to a pt. of wood on the L. S. Camped (2) 
S. 56°. E.  3 1/2  Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. opsd. a high hill (3) 
S. 28°. E.  Mls. to a Ceder Valey in a bend on the L. S. at this
place the gorge is 2000 yds
30 
 
[33]

Thus named, "as the Sioux generally cross the Missouri at this place. These
streams have the same right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone Creek
already mentioned."—Biddle (i, p. 76).

The present names of these streams are (in ascending order) Crow, Wolf, and
Campbell creeks. The first named is the location of Crow Creek Indian Agency and
Fort Thompson.—Ed.


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20th. of September, Thursday 1804—

a fair morning wind from the S. E. detached 2 men to the
1st. Creek above the big bend with the horse to hunt and wait
our arrival proceeded on passed the lower Island opposit
which the Sand bars are very thick & the water Shoal. I
walked on Shore with a view of examening this bend crossed
at the Narost part which is a high irregular hills of about 180
or 190 feet, this place the gouge of the bend is 1 Mile & a
quarter (from river to river or across,) from this high land
which is only in the Gouge, the bend is a Butifull Plain thro
which I walked, Saw numbers of Buffalow & Goats, I saw
a Hare & believe he run into a hole in the Side of a hill, he
run up this hill which is Small & has several holes on the Side
& I could not see him after, I joined the boat in the evening.
passed a Small Island on the L. S. in the N. W. extremity of
the bend Called Solitary Island, and Camped late on a Sand
Bar near the S. S. R. Fields Killed 1 Deer & 2 Goats one
of them a female She Differs from the Mail as to Size being
Smaller, with Small Horns, Streght with a Small Prong without
any black about the Neck. None of those Goats has any
Beard, they are all Keenly made [delicately formed.— Biddle],
and is butifull.

Course Distance and reffrs.—21st. Sept.

       
S. 70°. W.  4 1/2  Miles to the Upper part of a Ceder bottom on the L. S.
passed Several Sand bars on both Sides. 
N. 50°. W.  2 1/2  Miles to a tree on the S. S. passing over a Willow
Island & a Creek on the L. S. (1) 
West  4 1/2  Miles to a point of Timber on the L. S. Passed Sand
bars the river here is verry Shoal and about a Mile
Wide. (2) Passed large hard Stone on the Shore
on each Side, a Mock Island on the S. S. 
11 1/2 

21st. of September Friday 1804—

at half past one o'clock this morning the Sand bar on which
we Camped began to under mind and give way which allarmed
the Serjeant on Guard, the motion of the boat awakened me;
I got up & by the light of the moon observed that the Sand


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had given away both above and below our Camp & was falling
in fast. I ordered all hands on as quick as possible & pushed
off, we had pushed off but a few minits before the bank under
which the Boat & perogus lay give way, which would Certainly
have Sunk both Perogues, by the time we made the opsd. Shore
our Camp fell in, we made a 2d. Camp for the remainder of the
night. & at Daylight proceeded on to the Gouge of this Great
bend and Brackfast, we Sent a man to Measure (step off) the
Distance across the gouge, he made it 2,000 yds., The distance
arround is 30 Mls. The hills extend thro: the Gouge and is about
200 foot above the water. in the bend as also the opposit Sides
both above and below the bend is a butifull inclined Plain, in
which there is great numbers of Buffalow, Elk & Goats in
view feeding & scipping on those Plains Grouse, Larks &
the Prarie bird is Common in those Plains.

We proceeded on passed a (1) Willow Island below the
mouth of a Small river called Tylors R about 35 Yds. wide
which Coms in on the L. S. 6 Miles above the Gouge of the
bend, at the Mouth of this river the two hunters a head left
a Deer & its Skin also the Skin of a White wolf. We observe
an emence number of Plover of Different kind collecting and
takeing their flight Southerly, also Brants, which appear to
move in the Same Direction. The Cat fish is Small and not
so plenty as below.

(2) The Shore on each Side is lined with hard rough Gulley
Stone of different Sises, which has roled from the hills & out
of Small brooks, Ceder is Common here, This day is warm,
the wind which is not hard blows from the S. E., we Camped
at the lower point of the Mock Island on the S. S. this now
Connected with the main land, it has the appearance of once
being an Island detached from the main land Covered with tall
Cotton Wood. We Saw Some Camps and tracks of the Seaux
which appears to be old, three or four weeks ago, one frenchman
I fear has got an abscess on his they [thigh—Ed.], he
Complains verry much we are makeing every exertion to
reliev him

The Praries in this quarter Contains great qts. of Prickley
Pear.


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Course Distance & refferences—22nd

           
S. 72°. W.  Miles to a point on the S. S. Passing under a high
bluff on the L. Side (1) 
West  Mile on the S. S. a bottom commencing on the L. S.
at the end of this Course 
N. 38°. W.  4 1/2  Miles to a pt. of timber on the S. S. opposit the Lower
pt. of Ceder Island passed two Islands on the L. S.
one 1/2 a Mile & the other 3 Miles long called the
3 Sisters opsd. a large Creek coms in (2) 
N. 30°. W.  Miles to a pt. on S. S. passed Ceeder Island Situated
nearest the S. S. a trading house (3) 
N. 22°. E.  2 1/2  Miles to a timber opposit the Lower (L. S.) pt. of a
Small Island called Goat Island. (4) 
16 

22nd. of September Satturday 1804—

a thick fog this morning detained us untill 7 oClock passed
a butifull inclined Prarie on both Sides in which we See great
numbers of Buffalow feeding. (1) took the Meridean altitude
of the Suns Upper Limb 92°. 50′ 00″. [with] the Sextent the
Latd. produced from this Obsevation is 44° 11′ 33″ 3/10 North.

(2) passed a Small Island on the L. S. imediately above
passed a Island Situated nearest the L. S. abt. 3 Miles long,
behind this Isd. on the L. S. a Creek Comes in about 15 yards
wide, this Creek and Island are Called the 3 Sisters, a butifull
Plain on both Sides of the river.

(3) passed a Island Situated nearest the S. S. imediately
above the last Called Ceder Island this Island is about 1 1/2
miles long & nearly as wide Covered with Ceder, on the
South Side of this Island Mr. Louiselle a trader from St. Louis
built a fort of Ceder[34] & a good house to trade with the Seaux
& Wintered last winter; about this fort I observed a number
of Indian Camps in a Conecal form. they fed their horses on
Cotton limbs as appears. here our hunters us joined haveing


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killed 2 Deer & a Beaver, they Complain much of the Mineral
Substances in the barren hills over which they passed
Distroying their mockessons.

(4) we proceeded on and Campd. late on the S. Side below a
Small Island in the bend S. S. Called Goat Island, The large
Stones which lay on the Sides of the banks in Several places
lay some distance in the river, under the water and is dangerous.
&c.

I walked out this evening and killed a fine Deer the Musquiters
is verry troublesom in the bottoms.

Course Distance & refferencies.—23rd. Septr.

           
N. 46°. W.  3 3/4  Miles to the Mouth of a Creek in the bend to the
S. S. passed an Isld. on the S. S. (1) & Sands. 
S. 46°. W.  1 3/4  Miles to a Coaps of Wood at a Spring in a bend to
the L. S. 
N. 80°. W.  4 1/2  Miles to the lower pt. of a large Island (2) passed 2
Willow Islands & Several Bars. 
N. 85°. W.  Miles to a pt. on the L. S. pass upper p. of Elk
Island at 2 1/2 Miles. Several Sands 
West  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. below a Creek on the L. S.
passed a Creek on the S. S. (3) 
20 
 
[34]

Gass (p. 58) thus describes this post: "The space picketed in is about 65 or
70 feet square, with sentry-boxes in two of the angles. The pickets are 13 1/2 feet
above ground. In this square he built a house 45 1/2 by 32 1/2 feet, and divided it into
four equal parts, one for goods, one to trade in, one to be used as a common hall, and
the other for a family-house."—Ed.

23rd. of September Sunday 1804—

Set out under a gentle breeze from the S. E. (1) passed a
Small Island Situated in a bend to the L. S. Called Goat
Island, a Short distance above the upper point a Creek of 12
yards wide Coms in on the S. S. we observed a great Smoke
to the S. W. I walked on Shore & observed Buffalow in great
Herds at a distance

(2) passed two Small Willow Islands with large Sand bars
makeing out from them, passed (2) Elk Island about 2 1/2
Miles long & 3/4 Mile Wide Situated near the L. S. Covered
with Cotton Wood the read Currents Called by the french
Gres de Beuff.[35] & grapes &c. &c.


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the river is nearly Streight for a great distance wide and
Shoal (4) passed a Creek on the S. S. 16 yards wide we Call
Reuben Creek,[36] as R. Fields found it. Camped on the S. S.
below the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. three Souex boys
Came to us Swam the river and informd that the Band of
Seauex called the Tetongues (Tetons) of 80 Lodges were Camped
at the next Creek above, & 60 Lodges more a Short distance
above, we gave those boys two Carrots of Tobacco to Carry
to their Chiefs, with directions to tell them that we would Speek
to them tomorrow

Capt. Lewis walked on Shore this evening, R. F. Killed a
Doe Goat,

Course Distance & reffurence—24th.. Septr

         
N. 80 W.  Miles a pt. on the S. S. 
West  2 1/2  Miles to the S. S. right of a Isld. Situated on the
L. S. (1) 
West  Miles to a Point on the S. S. passed the Island on
the L. S. 
S. 85° W.  Miles to the Mouth of a River Called by Evens[37] Little
Missourie I call it the Teton river as the
Teton Bands of the Soux reside on it (2) 
13 
 
[35]

[Memoranda by Clark on the inside of front cover and fly-leaf of Codex C:]
The Mandans call a red berry common to the upper part of the Missouri ăs-sáy.
The red Berry is called by the Rees Nar-nis the engages call the same Berry Grease
de Buff—grows in great abundance & makes a Delightfull Tart.

[36]

Now East Medicine Knoll River (a translation of its Indian name); across the
Missouri here was the site of old Fort George.—Coues (L. and C., i, p. 127).

[37]

Probably referring to a map cited by Coues (L. and C., i, p. xxiii), as made by
one Evans in 1804, showing the Missouri River to the Mandans. See our atlas volume,
for maps which Lewis and Clark both took with them and made upon the
Expedition; one of the former was probably a copy of the Evans map.—Ed.

24th. September Monday 1804—

Set out early a fair day the wind from the E. pass the
mouth of Creek on the L. S. Called Creek on high Water,
(High Water) passed (1) a large Island on the L. S. about 2
Miles & 1/2 long on which Colter had Camped & Killed 4
Elk, the wind fair from the S. E. we prepared Some Clothes
and a fiew Meadels for the Chiefs of the Teton's bands of
Seoux which we expect to See to day at the next river, observe
a great Deel of Stone on the Sides of the hills on the
S. S. we Saw one Hare, to day, prepared all things for


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Action in Case of necessity, our Perogus went to the Island
for the Meet, Soon after the man on Shore run up the bank
and reported that the Indians had Stolen the horse We Soon
after Met 5 Inds. and ankered out Som distance & Spoke to
them informed them we were friends, & Wished to Continue
So but were not afraid of any Indians, Some of their young
men had taken the horse Sent by their Great father for their
Cheif and we would not Speek to them untill the horse was
returned to us again.

passed (2) a Island on the S. S. on which we Saw Several
Elk, about 1 1/2 Miles long Called Good humered [humoured]
Isld. Came to about 1 1/2 Miles above off the Mouth of a
Small river about 70 yards wide Called by Mr. Evens the
Little Mississou [Missouri] River, The Tribes of the Seauex
Called the Teton, is Camped about 2 Miles up on the N. W.
Side, and we Shall Call the River after that Nation, Teton[38]
This river is 70 yards wide at the mouth of Water, and has a
considerable Current we anchored off the mouth

the french Perogue Come up early in the day, the other did
not Get up untill in the evening Soon after we had Come too.
I went & Smoked with the Chiefs who came to See us here
all well, we prepare to Speek with the Indians tomorrow at
which time we are informed the Indians will be here, the
French Man who had for Some time been Sick, began to
blead which allarmed him 2/3 of our party Camped on board
the remainder with the Guard on Shore.

 
[38]

Also known as Bad River. Near its mouth was Fort Pierre (begun in 1831),
named for Pierre Chouteau. —Ed.