University of Virginia Library

I. JOURNAL.

CHAP. I.

ON Monday the 14th of May 1804, we left
our establishment at the mouth of the river de Bois
or Wood river, a small river which falls into the
Mississippi, on the east side, a mile below the Missouri,
and having crossed the Mississippi proceeded
up the Missouri on our intended voyage of discovery,
under the command of Captain Clarke. Captain
Lewis was to join us in two or three days on our
passage.[1]

The corps consisted of forty-three men (including
Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, who were to command
the expedition) part of the regular troops of
the United States, and part engaged for this particular
enterprize. The expedition was embarked on
board a batteau and two periogues. The day was
showery, and in the evening we encamped on the
north bank six miles up the river. Here we had leisure
to reflect on our situation, and the nature of our
engagements: and, as we had all entered this service
as volunteers, to consider how far we stood pledged
for the success of an expedition, which the government
had projected; and which had been undertaken
for the benefit and at the expence of the Union: of
course of much interest and high expectation.

The best authenticated accounts informed us, that
we were to pass through a country possessed by numerous,
powerful and warlike nations of savages, of
gigantic stature, fierce, treacherous and cruel; and
particularly hostile to white men. And fame had united
with tradition in opposing mountains to our
course, which human enterprize and exertion would
attempt in vain to pass. The determined and resolute
character, however, of the corps, and the confidence
which pervaded all ranks, dispelled every emotion of
fear, and anxiety for the present; while a sense of
duty, and of the honour which would attend the completion
of the object of the expedition; a wish to gratify
the expectations of the government, and of our
fellow citizens, with the feelings which novelty and
discovery invariably inspire, seemed to insure to us
ample support in our future toils, sufferings and dangers.

On the 15th we continued our voyage. It rained
in the morning; but in the afternoon we had clear
weather, and encamped at night on the north side of
the river.

Wednesday 16th. We had a fine pleasant morning;
embarked early, and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon
arrived at St. Charles, and fired a gun. A
number of the inhabitants came to see us. This is
an old French village; in the country around which,
a number of Americans have settled.

We remained at St. Charles until the 21st, where
Captain Lewis arrived from St. Louis and joined us.
At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we left this place under
a salute of three cheers from the inhabitants, which
we returned with three more and a discharge of three
guns. This evening was showery, and we again
encamped on the north side of the river.

Tuesday 22nd. We continued our voyage; passed
Bonum creek on the south side, and having made
fifteen miles, encamped at the Cliffs on the north
side of the river. Here we were visited by some
Indians.

Wednesday 23rd. At 6 o'clock in the morning we
proceeded on our voyage with pleasant weather.
Passed the mouth of the Osage[2] river on the south
side, about a mile and an half below the Tavern Cove,
a noted place among the French traders. One mile
above this is the Tavern Creek. We encamped this
evening on the south side of the river, and had our
arms and ammunition inspected.

Thursday 24th. We continued our voyage, and
encamped at night on the south side. This day our
boat turned in a ripple, and nearly upset.

Friday 25th. We proceeded three miles and
passed a creek on the south side, called Wood river;
the banks of the river are here high and the land
rich: arrived at St. Johns, a small French village
situated on the north side, and encamped a quarter
of a mile above it. This is the last settlement of
white people on the river.

Saturday 26th. This morning two of our people
set out by land with a couple of horses. At seven
we embarked and had Joud thunder and heavy rain;
passed Otter creek on the north side, and encamped
near its mouth.

Sunday 27th. We passed Ash creek where there
are high cliffs on the south side, and at five in the
afternoon arrived at the mouth of Gaskenade river.
On the south side one of our party killed a deer.
We encamped for the night on an island opposite the
mouth of Gaskenade river. This is a very handsome
place,—a rich soil and pleasant country.

Monday 28th. Our provisions and stores were put
out to air and dry, and several of our men sent out to
hunt. One of them killed a deer. The mouth of
the Gaskenade riyer is 157 yards wide.

Tuesday 29th. Seven men were sent out to hunt;
six of whom returned. We waited here until 6 o'clock
P. M. for the man who had not come in, and then
proceeded three miles, passed Deer Creek on the
south side, and encamped a short distance above it
on the same side. A periogue and eight men had
been left for the hunter who had not returned.

Wednesday 30th. After experiencing a very disagreeable
night, on account of the rain, we continued
our voyage at seven o'clock A. M. and passed a cove
where there were high cliffs on the north side opposite
an island, called Mombran's tavern. At twelve
we had a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with
bail; passed a creek called Rush creek, on the north
side; and four miles further, Mud creek on the same
side. Here the soil is good, with cotton wood, sycamore,
oak, hickory, and white walnut: with some
grape vines, and an abundance of rushes. We halted
and encamped at Grindstone creek on the south
side of the river.

Thurday 31st. We were obliged to remain at this
encampment all day, on account of a strong wind

from the west. An Indian man and a squaw came
down the river with two canoes, loaded with fur and
peltry, and remained with us all night. Some of
our hunters went out and killed a deer.

Friday 1st June, 1804. Before daylight we embarked
and proceeded on our voyage; passed Big
Muddy creek on the north side; and on the opposide
side saw high banks. Two and an half miles
higher up, we passed Bear creek; and at 4 o'clock
P. M. arrived at the Osage river: where we remained
during the evening and the next day. The Osage
river is 197 yards wide at its confluence with the
Missouri, which, at this place, is 875 yards broad.
The country on the south side is broken, but rich:
and the land on the other of a most excellent quality.
The two men who went by land with the horses came
to us here: they represented the land they had passed
through as the best they had ever seen, and the
timber good, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, hickory
and black walnut. They had killed in their way five
deer. The periogue left at the mouth of Gaskenade
river came up with the man, who had been lost.
Here our hunters went out and killed three deer.
The Osage nation of Indians live about two hundred
miles up this river. They are of a large size and
well proportioned, and a very warlike people. Our
arms and ammunition were all inspected here and
found in good order.

Sunday 3rd. Captain Lewis, with one of the men
went out and killed a deer. At five in the afternoon
we embarked, and having proceeded six miles, encamped
at the mouth of Marrow creek on the south
side.

Monday 4th. Three hunters went out this morning.
We continued our voyage, and during the day
broke our mast by steering too close to the shore.
In the evening we encamped on the south side, near

lead mines; when our hunters came in with seven
deer.

Tuesday 5th. We passed Mine creek on the south
side, and Little Goodwoman creek on the north:
also the creek of the Big Rock. We met two
Frenchmen in two canoes laden with peltry; passed
a high cliff of rocks on the south side, and encamped
on the north side. The land about this place is good
and well timbered.

On the 6th we passed Saline creek on the south
side; and on the 7th the river of the Big Devil on
the north; and Big Goodwoman's creek on the same
side, where we encamped.

Friday 8th. We embarked and proceeded five
miles, when we met four canoes loaded with fur and
pletry: and passed the Mine river on the south side,
which is 150 yards wide. The land here is also good
and well timbered.

Saturday 9th. We passed the Prairie of Arrows
and Arrow creek on the south side.[3] This is a
beautiful country and the land excallent. The Missouri
here is only 300 yards wide, and the current
very strong. Three miles further we passed Blackbird
creek on the north side, and encamped. This
day going round some drift wood, the stern of the
boat became fast, when she immediately swung
round, and was in great danger; but we got her off
without much injury.

Sunday 10th. We proceeded five miles and passed
a creek called Deer-lick creek on the north side;
and three miles further the Two Charlottes on the
same side. The mouths of these two rivers are very
near each other: the first 70 and the other 100 yards
wide. We encamped on the south side of the river

at a prairie, and remained there the whole of the next
day, the wind I lowing too violent for us to proceed.

Tuesday 12th. We set out early, and proceeded
until five o'clock in the afternoon, when we met five
periogues loaded with fur and peltry from the Sioux
nation of Indians. We remained with the people
to whom these periogues belonged all night; and
got from them an old Frenchman, who could speak
the languages of the different nations of Indians up
the Missouri, and who agreed to go with us as an
interpreter.

Wednesday 13th. We proceeded early on our voyage;
passed a small creek on the north side in a
long bend of the river, and encamped at the mouth
of Grand river on the north side. This is as handsome
a place as I ever saw in an uncultivated state.

Thursday 14th. At five o'clock in the morning we
continued our voyage. The river having risen during
the night was difficult to ascend:- At noon we
passed some Frenchmen from the Poenese or Ponis
nation of Indians, where they spent the last winter.
In the evening we passed Snake creek on the north
side and encamped on the same.

Friday 15th. We renewed our voyage at five in
the morning, and had very rapid water. There is a
beautiful Prairie on the south side and the land high.
Mulberries are in great abundance almost all along
the river. We encamped on the north side, opposite
an old Indian village.

Saturday 16th. Three men went out this morning
to look for timber to make oars, but could find none
suitable. On their return we continued our voyage;
had cloudy weather and rapid water all day and encamped
on the north side.

Sunday 17th. This morning was clear and at five
we renewed our voyage. Having proceeded about a
mile we halted to get timber for oars: and while we
remained here to make them our hunters came in

and brought with them a handsome horse, which
they had found astray. They also brought a bear,
which they had killed.

Monday 18th. We remained here all day; and
our hunters killed five deer and a bear. On the south
side there is high land and a long prairie; on the
north the land is level and well timbered, with ash,
sugar tree, black wainut, buck-eye, cotton wood and
some other timber.

Tuesday 19th. We passed Tabo creek on the
south side, and a small creek on the north; and encamped
on the south side opposite a small lake about
two miles distant.

Wednesday 20th. At five in the morning we continued
our voyage, passed Tiger creek, a large creek
that flows in from the north, and encamped on an
island. The land along here is good on both sides of
the river.

On the 21st we had rapid water, and for about a
mile had to warp up our boat by a rope. A creek
called Du Beau or Du Bois, falls in on the south
side behind an island. We encamped in the evening
on the south side.

Friday 22nd. It rained hard from four to seven in
the morning, when we continued our voyage. About
12, one of our men went out and killed a large bear.
We encamped at a handsome prairie on the south
side opposite a large creek, called the Fire-prairie,
and which is 60 yards wide.

Saturday 23rd. We set out at five in the morning;
at 12 the wind blew so strong down the river that we
were unable to proceed, and we encamped on an
island and inspected the arms and ammunition.—
Captain Clarke went out with one of the men and did
not return this evening.

Sunday 21th. We had a fine morning, embarked
at five and pursued our voyage: at nine Captain
Clarke came to us and brought with him two deer

and a bear. We passed a creek on the south side
called Depie. At 12 we stopped to jirk our meat,
and again proceeded at two; passed a creek on the
north side and encamped on the south bank of the
river.[4]

Monday 25th. The morning was foggy and at seven
o'clock we pursued our voyage. The river here
is narrow with high land on the south side. We passed
a creek on the south side called Labenile, and encamped
on an island.

Tuesday 26th. We embarked and set out at five-o'clock
in the morning; passed a creek on the south
side, called Blue-water. This afternoon we had some
difficulty in passing a sandbar, the tow-rope having
broke; but by the exertions of those on board, the
boat was brought to shore without injury. We encamped
on the south side on a point at the confluence
of the Canzan, or Kanzas river with the Missouri.
It was agreed to remain here during the 27th and
28th where we pitched our tents and built bowers
in front of them. Canzan or Kanzas, is 230 yards
and a quarter wide, and navigable to a great distance.
Our hunters killed 4 deer, and a young wolf, and
caught another alive. In the afternoon of the 29th
we again proceeded on our voyage, and encamped on
the north side of the river.

Saturday 30th. The day was clear and we continued
our voyage; found high land on both sides of
the river; and passed a large creek on the north
side, called Platt, fifty yards wide. We broke our
mast and encamped on the south side, where there
were the most signs of game I ever saw.

Sunday 1st July, 1804. We set out at five in the
morning, and having advanced 12 miles, encamped on

an islnad opposite a prairie on the south side of the
river.

Monday 2nd. At sunrise we continued our voyage,
and met a quantity of drift wood which was
carried down the stream; this morning we passed a
creek on the south side and encamped on the north
opposite and old French village and fort, but all vacant.

Tuesday 3d. We proceeded again at five, and
continued our voyage until 12, when we stopt at an
old trading place on the south side of the river.—
There we found a grey horse; but saw no appearance
of any persons having lately encamped at that place.

Wednesday 4th. We fired a swivel at sunrise in
honour of the day, and continued our voyage; passed
a creek on the north side, called Pond Creek, and at
one o'clock stopt to dine. One of our people got
snake bitten but not dangerously. After dinner we
renewed our voyage, passed a creek on the north
side, which we called Independence, encamped on
the north side at an old Indian village situated in a
handsome prairie, and saluted the departing day with
another gun.

Thur. 5th. We proceeded on our voyage at five
in the morning; and found the land high on the south
side. We went through a large bend full of sand
bars where we had some difficulty in passing; and
encamped on the south side at high prairie land.

Friday 6th. We set out early this morning; had
a fine day, and made a good day's voyage: and encamped
on the south side at Whipperwell creek.

Saturday 7th. At an early hour we proceeded on
our voyage; passed a high handsome prairie on the
north side, and killed a wolf and a large wood rat on
the bank. The principal difference between it and
the common rat is, its having hair on its tail.

Sunday 8th. We were under way this morning
before day hight. The river here is crooked and narrow.
At one we came to a large island, with only a

small stream on the north side which we went up. A
large creek called Nadowa flows in from the north;
and on this side we encamped.

Monday 9th. Early this morning we continued
our voyage. It rained hard till 12 o'clock. We
passed a creek on the south side, called Wolf creek.
The man that was snake bitten is become well. We
encamped on the south side.

Tuesday 10th. We set out early this morning and
had a fair day and fair wind. There is a handsome
prairie on the south side opposite an island. We
encamped on the north side.

Wed. 11th. We also embarked early this morning;
passed a creek on the north side, called Tarico,
and halted at an island, opposite a creek called Moha
on the south side of the river. Seven hunters went
out to day and two of them brought in five deer.—
Here we found another horse on the bank of the river,
supposed to have been left by a hunting party last
winter. Two of our men, who had gone to hunt on
the south side of the river, did not return at night.

Thursday 12th. We remained here this day, that
the men, who were much fatigued, might take some
rest. The hunters, who had remained on the south
side of the river all night, came in, but had killed
nothing. Two more went to hunt on the north side
and killed two deer.

Friday 13th. We were early under way this morning
with a fair wind. The day was fine. We passed
a creek on the north side, and having made 20 miles
and an half, encamped on a large sand bar.

Saturday 14th. At day break it began to rain and
continued until seven when it abated, and we set forward
: but in a short time a gust of wind and rain
came on so violent, that all hands had to leap into the
water to save the boat. Fortunately this storm did
not last long, and we went on to a convenient place
and landed. Here we continued two hours and then

proceeded. We saw some elk, but could not kill any
of them; passed a river on the north side, called
Wash-ba-to-nan, and encamped on the south side.

Sunday 15th. We got under way at six o'clock;
passed a creek on the sonth side; and gathered some
ripe grapes. There is high land and prairies on this
side. Captain Clarke and two men went by land.
At the head of an island, called Elk island, we found
some pummice stone among the drift wood. We
passed a creek on the south side, called Na-ma-ha,
and encamped on the same.

Monday 16th. Early in the morning we proceeded
on our voyage opposite a prairie; had a fine day
and fair wind, and passed a long island, above which
is a place where the bank has slipped into the river.
There are high rocky cliffs on the south side, and
hills and prairies on the north: on which side we
encamped. The river here is two miles wide with
rapid water. Two of our hunters met us here with
two deer.

Tuesday 17th. We remained here all day; and
one of our hunters killed three deer.

Wednesday 18th. Early this morning we prosecuted
our voyage with a fair wind and pleasant weather.
This is the most open country I ever beheld,
almost one continued prairie. Two of our hunters
went by land with the horses as usual. On the south
side we passed high handsome banks or bluffs of red
and blue strata;[5] found some iron ore here, and encamped
on the south side, where one of the hunters
brought us two deer,

Thursday 19th. At sun rise we renewed our voyage,
and passed a number of sand bars, and high land,
on the south side. Where we halted for dinner we

found a great quantity of cherries, called by some
choak-cherries. We encamped for the night on an
island of Willows.

Friday 20th. We embarked early; passed high
yellow banks on the south side and a creek, called
the Water-which-cries, or the Weeping stream, opposite
a willow island, and encamped on a prairie on
the south side.

Saturday 21st. We set out early. It rained this
morning but we had a fine breeze of wind. There
are a great many willow islands and sand-bars in this
part of the river. At nine the wind fell, and at one
we came to the great river Platte, or shallow river,
which comes in on the south side, and at the mouth
is three quarters of a mile broad. The land is flat
about the confiuence. Up this river live three nations
of Indians, the Otos, Panis and Loos, or Wolf
Indians. On the south side there is also a creek,
called Butterfly creek.

Sunday 22nd. We left the river Platte and proceeded
early on our voyage, with fair weather.—
There is high prairie land on the south side, with
some timber on the northern parts of the hills. We
came nine miles from the mouth of Platte river, and
landed on a willow bank. The hunters killed five
deer and caught two beaver.

Monday 23rd. Six men were sent out to make
oars; and two to a nation of Indians up the Platte
river, to inform them of the change of government
in this country, and that we were here ready to
treat with them. We hoisted a flag, and sent them
another.

Our people were all busily engaged in hunting,
making oars, dressing skins, and airing our stores,
provisions and baggage. We killed two deer and
caught two beaver. Beaver appear plenty in this
part of the country.

We continued here to the 27th. On the 24th
there were some showers; but during the remainder
of the time there was clear weather. Our people
were generally employed as before. The hunters
killed five more deer; and the two men returned
from the Indian village, without finding any of the
natives.