University of Virginia Library

CHAP. X.

Monday 15th. After a night of heavy rain, we
had a pleasant morning, and loaded the canoes.
About 11 o'clock we set out from this place, which
we had called Canoe camp; had fine still water, and
passed some handsome small bottoms on both sides
of the river. We also passed a handsome river on
the south side about 100 yards wide, which seemed
to have its source in a large mountain on the same
side. The snow appears to have melted from all the
mountains in view. The country around is composed
of dry plains, with short grass. We passed two small
creeks, one on each side of the river; made 26 miles;
and encamped on the north side.

Tuesday 16th. We embarked early and had a fine
morning. Captain Lewis and two men went on ahead
to the mountain to take an observation. We
passed the channel of a river on the south side without
water, about 60 yards wide. We had fine water
until about 1 o'clock, when we came within about two
miles of the mountain; when the water became more
rapid; but the current not so swift as below the falls.
At this place there are a number of small islands.
One of our men has been taken unwell. In the afternoon
we continued our voyage, and the water continued
very rapid. We got about three miles into the
first range of the Rock mountains, and encamped on
the north side of the river on a sand beach. There
is some fine timber on the mountains, but not much
in this part. There are great hills of solid rock of
a dark colour. This day we went about 20 miles.

Wednesday 17th. We set out early, and the morning
was fine and pleasant. At 8 o'clock we came to

Captain Lewis's camp, at a very rapid place of the
river, and took breakfast. We had here to join the
crews of two canoes together, to go up the rapids
which were about half a mile long. The Missouri
at this place is very narrow. At the head of these
rapids a fine spring comes in one the south side, which
rises about a quarter of a mile from the river; and
has a good deal of small cotton-wood and willows on
its banks. There is also another spring below the
rapids, but it sinks before it reaches the river. We
proceeded on through the mountains, a very desert
looking part of the country. Some of the knobs or
peaks of these mountains are 700 (perhaps some
nearly 1200) feet high, all rock; and though they
are almost perpendicular, we saw mountain sheep
on the very tops of them. We saw few other animals
to day. The general breadth of the river is 100
yards. We went 11 miles and encamped in a small
bottom on the north side.

Thursday 18th. The morning was fair and we
proceeded on early: passed Clear-water river on the
north side about 50 yards wide, rapid and shallow.
There are a great quantity of currants all along the
river on both sides in the small bottoms. At breakfast
time Captain Clarke with three men went on ahead.
About 11 we got through the higher part of
the mountains, and to where there is less timber and
the rocks not so large. In the forenoon we passed
two small creeks on the north side, and in the afternoon
a small river on the same side; above the mouth
of which we got a deer skin, that Captain Clarke's
man had hung up. The country continues much
the same. We made 20 miles this day.

Friday 19th. A fine morning. At 9 we came to
high parts of the mountains, which had a good deal
of pine, spruce and cedar on them, and where there
were not so many rocks; but no timber in the bottoms
except some small willows. About 1 o'clock

we had thunder, lightning and rain, which continued
an hour or two, and then the weather became
clear. This afternoon we passed parts of the mountains,
that were very high, and mostly of solid rock
of a light colour. The mountains are so close on
the river on both sides that we scarcely could find
room to encamp. We went 20 miles and encamped
on the south side. After night some rain fell.

Saturday 20th. We had a fine morning, and embarked
early. About 8 we got out of the high part
of the mountains and came to where they are lower
and not so rocky; and where there are the finest
currants I ever saw of different kinds, red, yellow
and black: the black are the most pleasant and palatable.
There is also a good portion of timber on
the mountains all along this part. We killed an elk
in our way, and found the skin of one which Captain
Clarke had left on the bank with a note, informing us
he would pass the mountain he was then on, and wait
for the canoes. We passed a small creek on the
south side, and about 2 o'clock came to a level plain
on the north side, from which we saw a strong smoke
rising, and supposed it was from a fire made by Capt.
Clarke. The river is very crooked in general, and
here is a great bend to the southeast; and in the afternoon
it turned so far that our course was north
of east. We proceeded on through a valley between
two mountains, one of which we passed, and the
other is in view ahead. We went 15 miles and encamped
at the mouth of a small run on the south
side.

Sunday 21st. We set out at sunrise and had a
pleasant morning; passed some middling high hills
on the river, and rocks of a red purple colour; also
two small creeks one on each side. There are a few
pines on the hills. At noon our course began to
change more to the southwest again; the wind blow
very hard and some drops of rain fell. In the afternoon

we passed through a ridge, where the river is
very narrow; and close above a large cluster of small
islands, where we had some difficulty to get along,
the water being so much separated. We went 15
miles and an half and encamped on the south side,
on a beautiful prairie bottom. One of our hunters
killed a fine deer.

Monday 22nd. We embarked early, the weather
being pleasant: passed some fine springs on the
southern shore, and a large island near the northern:
On the south side the country is level to a good distance,
but on the north the hills come close to the
river. At breakfast our squaw informed us she had
been at this place before when small. Here we got
a quantity of wild onions. At half past 9, we proceeded
on again; passed a large island at noon; and
in the afternoon, more islands; and came to a place
where Captain Clarke and his party were encamped.
They told us they had seen the same smoke, which
we had discovered a few days ago, and found it had
been made by the natives, who they supposed had
seen some of us, and had fled, taking us for enemies.
We went 17 miles and an half and encamped on an
island; where we found the musquitoes very bad.
We saw to day several banks of snow on a mountain
west of us.

Tuesday 23rd. A cloudy morning. We embarked
early, and at the same time Captain Clarke and four
men went on again to endeavour to meet with some
of the natives. We had rapid water, and passed a
great number of islands. Capt. Clarke and his men
killed four deer and a cabre, and left the skins and
meat on the shore, where we could easily find them.
The course of the river all day was nearly from the
south, through a valley of 10 or 12 miles wide. The
mountains are not so high nor so rocky, as those we
passed. Large timber is not plenty, but there are a
great quantity of small shrubs and willows. We

passed a small river on the south side, and some
banks of very white clay. We encamped on an island
having made 24 miles.

Wednesday 24th. The morning was fine, and we
early prosecuted our voyage; passed a bank of very
red earth, which our squaw told us the natives use
for paint. Deer are plenty among the bushes, and
one of our men killed one on the bank. We continued
through the valley all day: Went 19 miles and
encamped on the north side.

Thursday 25th. We embarked and proceeded on
at the usual time, in a fine morning: we passed a
beautiful plain on the north side, and at 2 o'clock we
came to the entrance of another chain of mountains;
where we took dinner and again went on. Passing
through this chain we found some difficult rapids, but
good water between them. This chain of mountains
are not so high, nor so rocky as those we passed before.
Six very fine springs rise on the southern
shore, about four miles above the entrance of this
range. We went 16 miles and encamped on the
north side.

Friday 26th. The morning was fine and we continued
our course through the mountains. There are
some cedar and spruce trees on the shores; but very
little of any kind on the mountains. About 11 o'clock
we got through this range into a valley: About 2
came to a large island and halted on it for dinner.
A rattle-snake came among our canoes in the water,
of a kind different from any I had seen. It was about
two feet long, of a light colour, with small spots all
over. One of our hunters went on ahead in the
morning; and at this place killed 4 deer. While we
remained here it became cloudy and some rain fell.
At 4 o'clock we proceeded on through the valley;
passed a creek on the south side, and having gone
18 miles and an half encamped on the same side,
where a small mountain comes in to the river.

Saturday 27th. We continued our voyage early,
and had a pleasant morning; proceeded on, and at
9 o'clock got through the small mountain. At the
entrance of the valley, a branch of the Missouri
comes in on the south side, about 60 yards wide;
the current rapid but not very deep. Here we took
breakfast, and having proceeded on a mile, came to
another branch of the same size. There is very little
difference in the size of the 3 branches. On the
bank of the north branch we found a note Captain
Clarke had left informing us, he was ahead and had
gone up that branch. We went on to the point, and,
as the men were much fatigued, encamped in order
to rest a day or two. After we halted here, it began
to rain and continued three hours. About 12 o'clock
Capt. Clarke and his men came to our encampment,
and told us they had been up both branches a considerable
distance, but could discover none of the natives.
There is a beautiful valley at these forks;
and a good deal of timber on the branches, chiefly
cotton-wood. Also currants, goose and service berries,
and choak-cherries on the banks. The deer
are plenty too; some of the men went out and
killed several to-day. Capt. Clarke was very unwell
and had been so all last night. In the evening the
weather became clear and we had a fine night.

Sunday 28th. As this was a fine day, the men were
employed in airing the baggage, dressing skins and
hunting. Capt. Clarke still continued unwell. Our
squaw informed us, that it was at this place she had
been taken prisoner by the Grossventers 4 or 5 years
ago. From this valley we can discover a large mountain
with snow on it, towards the southwest; and expect
to pass by the northwest end of it. Capt. Lewis
had a meridian altitude here, which gave 45 22
34 .5 north latitude. We also remained here the
29th, which was a fine day, and the men chiefly

employed in the same way. Capt. Clarke is getting
better.

Tuesday 30th. We left our encampment at the
forks, and proceeded on about 7 o'clock A. M. up
the north branch. This branch is about 60 yards
wide and 6 feet deep, with a rapid current. We
passed a number of islands. The valley continued
on the south side all this day; but the spur of a
mountain, about 5 or 6 miles from the forks came in
close on the north side with very high cliffs of rocks.
We encamped where it terminated, having made 13
miles and an half.

Wednesday 31st. We set out early, and had a fine
cool morning with dew. Last night Capt. Lewis
went on ahead, and the canoes being unable to get
on to him, he was obliged to encamp out alone in
this howling wilderness. We passed a small creek
this morning on the south side, which empties into
the river, through 2 or 3 mouths, on account of its
being much dammed up by the beaver, which are
very plenty. At breakfast time we came up to Capt.
Lewis; and having made 17 miles and three quarters,
encamped on an island.

Thursday 1st August, 1805. We set out early in
a fine morning and proceeded on till breakfast time;
when Capt. Lewis, myself and the two interpreters
went on ahead to look for some of the Snake Indians.
Our course lay across a large mountain on the north
side, over which we had a very fatigueing trip of about
11 miles. We then came to the river again, and
found it ran through a handsome valley of from 6 to
8 miles wide. At the entrance of this valley, which
is covered with small bushes, but has very little timber,
we killed two elk and left the meat for the canoes
to take up, as the men stood much in need of it, having
no fresh provisions on hand. We crossed a
small creek on the north shore, and encamped on
the same side.

Friday 2nd. The morning was fine and we went
on at sunrise, proceeded 4 or 5 miles and crossed
the river. In the middle of the day it was very
warm in the valley, and at night very cold; so much
so that two blankets were scarce a sufficient covering.
On each side of the valley there is a high
range of mountains, which run nearly parallel, with
some spots of snow on their tops. We killed a
deer; went about 24 miles and encamped on the
south side.

Saturday 3rd. A fine cool morning. We left a
note for Capt. Clarke, continued our route along the
valley: and passed several fine springs that issue
from the mountains. Currants and service berries
are in abundance along this valley, and we regaled
ourselves with some of the best I had ever seen. We
went about 22 miles and encamped. The night was
disagreeably cold.

Sunday 4th. At sun rise we continued our march,
in a fine morning; went about 6 miles when we
came to a fork of the river; crossed the south branch
and from a high knob discovered that the river had
forked below us, as we could see the timber on the
north branch about 6 or 7 miles from the south and
west branches. We therefore crossed to the north
branch, and finding it not navigable for our canoes,
went down to the confluence and left a note for Capt.
Clarke directing him to take the left hand branch.
We then went up the north branch about 10 miles
and encamped on it.

Monday 5th. This morning Capt. Lewis thought
it would be best for me and one of the interpreters
to go over to the west branch, and remain there, until
he and the other should go higher up the north,
cross over in search of Indians and then go down
and join us. At night they came to our camp, but
had not seen any of the natives, nor any fresh
signs.

Tuesday 6th. We started early to go down to the
point to see if the canoes had come up that far, and
came upon the north branch about 2 miles above it.
Here we discovered that the people in the canoes
had not found the note, and with great difficulty, had
proceeded 5 or 6 miles up the north branch. In their
return down one of the canoes was overturned; a
knapsack, shot-pouch and powder-horn lost, and all
the rest of the loading wet. We got down to the
forks about 12 o'clock, put all our baggage out to
dry, and encamped for the night. Some hunters
went out and killed 3 deer.

Wednesday 7th. We remained here during the
forenoon, which was fair and clear, and where Capt.
Lewis took a meridian altitude, which made the latitude
of this place 45 2 53 north. At 3 o'clock in
the afternoon, we were ready to continue our voyage.
In the evening a heavy cloud came up, and we had
hard thunder with lightning and rain. We went on
7 miles and encamped on the north side, when the
weather cleared, and we had a fine night. The
canoes came 62 miles and three quarters while we
were out.

Thursday 8th. We proceeded on early and had a
pleasant morning. The west branch which we went
up is about 30 yards wide, and the south, which we
passed, about 15 yards. Three hunters went by land
to day, and at noon had killed 2 deer and a goat or
cabre. The river is very crooked in this valley. The
hunters again went out in the afternoon and killed 2
deer more. There are no buffaloe in this part of the
country, and other game is not plenty. We went this
day 19 miles.

We found out the reason why Capt. Clarke did not
get the note left at the point, which was that a beaver
had cut down and dragged off the pole, on which I
had fixed it.

Friday 9th. We set out at sunrise, and had a fine
morning with some dew; proceeded on till 9 o'clock
when we halted for breakfast. Here one of the hunters
came to us who had been out since the morning
the canoes went up the north branch by mistake, and
who had that morning preceded them by land. Here
also Captain Lewis and three men started to go on ahead;
and at 10 we proceeded on with the canoes.
The river is narrow and very crooked, and the valley
continues about the same breadth. There is some
timber on the mountain on the south side, and white
earth or rocks appearing through the pines. At noon
we halted for dinner, and hauled out one of the canoes,
which had sprung a leak and caulked her.

This morning our commanding officers thought
proper that the Missouri should lose its name at the
confluence of the three branches we had left on the
30th ultimo. The north branch, which we went up,
they called Jefferson; the west or middle branch,
Madison; the south branch, about 2 miles up which
a beautiful spring comes in, Gallatin! and a small
river above the forks they called Philosophy. Of the
3 branches we had just left, they called the north
Wisdom, the south Philanthrophy, and the west or middle
fork, which we continued our voyage along, retained
the name of Jefferson. We went 14 miles
and encamped on the south side. Our two hunters
killed but one goat.