University of Virginia Library

CHAP. VIII.

Wednesday 1st May, 1805. We set out early in a
cool morning; and went on till 12 o'clock, when the
wind rose so high, that our small canoes could not
stand the waves. We made only ten miles this day.

Thursday 2d. At day break it began to snow; and
the wind continued so high, we could not proceed
until the afternoon. While we lay here our hunters
went out and killed some buffaloe and deer. They
found some red cloth at an old Indian camp, which
we suppose had been offered and left as a sacrifice;
the Indians having some knowledge of a supreme being
and this their mode of worship. The snow did
not fall more than an inch deep. At four we set
out, went six miles, and encamped on the north side
in a beautiful bottom.

Friday 3rd. We proceeded on our voyage this
morning, though very cold and disagreeable, and a
severe frost. The snow and green grass on the prairies
exhibited an appearance somewhat uncommon.
The cotton wood leaves are as large as dollars, notwithstanding
the snow and such hard frost. We
passed a small river on the north side called the 2000
mile river. About a mile above we passed a large
creek on the south side, called Porcupine creek.—
We came this day about 20 miles and encamped on
the north side.

Saturday 4th. This day was more pleasant: in
the forenoon we passed a creek on the south side,
about 40 yards wide. The river has been more
straight for two or three days than it was before;
the bottoms larger and more timber on them. We
went about eighteen miles and encamped on the
north side. One of the men became sick this morning
and has remained so all day.

Sunday 5th. The morning was fine with some
white frost. During this day the country appeared
beautiful on both sides of the river. We went sixteen
miles and encamped on the north side. The
sick man has become better. Here we killed a very
large brown bear, which measured three feet five
inches round the head; three feet eleven inches
round the neck; round the breast five feet 10 1-2
inches; the length eight feet 7 1-2 inches; round
the middle of the fore leg 23 inches; and his talons
four inches and three eights of an inch.

Monday 6th. We set sail with a fair wind and
pleasant weather. At 12 a few drops of rain fell, but
it soon cleared up. We passed a river on the south
side about 200 yards wide; but the water of this
river sinks in the sand on the side of the Missouri.
We went twenty-six miles and encamped on the
south side.

Tuesday 7th. We again set out early and went
on very well till 12 when it began to blow hard, and
being all under sail one of our canoes turned over.
Fortunately the accident happened near the shore;
and after halting three hours we were able to go on
again. Having this day made sixteen miles we encamped
on the south side.

Wednesday 8th. We were again very early under
way in a cloudy morning: about 12 some rain fell:
at 2 we passed a handsome river on the north side
about 200 yards wide called Milk river. There is a
good deal of water in this river which is clear, and
its banks beautiful. Our distance this day was about
twenty-seven miles, and we encamped in a beautiful
bottom on the south side.

Thursday 9th. We proceeded on early and had a
fine day. The country on both sides begins to be
more broken, and the river more crooked. At 1, we
passed a creek on the south side, and having made
about 25 miles we encamped at the mouth of a creek

on the north side, called by the name of Warner's
creek.

Friday 10th. We set out early in a fair morning;
but having gone five miles were obliged to halt and
lie by during the day, on account of hard wind.
Some small showers of rain occasionally fell. Here
we killed some deer and buffaloe and took some
beaver.

Saturday 11th. The morning was fine, we started
at the usual hour: at 1 passed a small creek on the
South side. This day we saw several great gangs of
buffaloe, and other game in plenty. One of the men
killed another large brown bear, about the size of
the one lately killed. We came seventeen miles and
encamped on the South side.

Sunday 12th. We early renewed our voyage and
had a pleasant morning; passed some hills on the
North side, covered with pine and cedar, the first
timber of any kind we have seen on the hills for a
long time. At 1 we halted for dinner and a violent
storm of wind then arose, which continued until
night when some rain fell. Our distance this day
only 13 1-2 miles.

Monday 13th. The weather continued stormy,
and some few drops of rain fell. At 1 P. M. we
embarked; passed three creeks, one on the North
side and two on the South; went seven miles and
encamped in a large bottom.

Tuesday 14th. There was some white frost in
the morning, we proceeded on early; passed black
hills close to the river on the South side and some
covered with pine timber at a distance. About 12
the day became warm. Banks of snow were seen
lying on the hills on the North side. This forenoon
we passed a large creek on the North side and a
small river on the South. About 4 in the afternoon
we passed another small river on the South side near
the mouth of which some of the men discovered a

large brown bear, and six of them went out to kill
it. They fired at it; but having only wounded it,
it made battle and was near seizing some of them,
but they all fortunately escaped, and at length succeeded
in dispatching it. These bears are very bold
and ferocious; and very large and powerful. The
natives say they have killed a number of their brave
men. The periogues having gone ahead, while the
people belonging to the canoes were dressing the
bear, a sudden gust of wind arose, which overset
one of the periogues before the sail could be got
down. The men who had been on board, turned it
again and got it to shore, full of water. It was immediately
unloaded and the cargo opened, when
we found a great part of the medicine, and other
articles spoiled. Here we encamped, having come
to day 18 1-2 miles.

Wednesday 15th. We remained here all day to
dry our baggage that had got wet. It was cloudy
and unfavourable for the purpose, and some rain
fell.

Thursday 16th. This was a fine day, and by 4
o'clock in the afternoon we had all our articles dry
and on board again. At that time we proceeded on
our voyage; passed high barren hills on both sides
of the river, with only a few pine trees on them.
We advanced seven miles and encamped in a handsome
bottom on the South side where there are a
number of old Indian huts.

Friday 17th. The morning was fine and we embarked
early. The hills here come very close to the
river on both sides, and have very little timber on
them. They are very high and much washed.
There are some of them which at a distance resemble
ancient steeples. We passed two rivers one on
each side. During the whole of this day's voyage
the Missouri was very handsome, and about 300
yards wide. We made 20 1-4 miles and encamped
on the South side.

Saturday 18th. A cloudy morning. We proceeded
as usual. The country much the same as yesterday;
until about 12 o'clock, when the bottoms became
more extensive on both sides of the river. There
is still a small quantity of pine timber on the hills.
We had some showers of rain in the forenoon; hail
in the afternoon; and a fine clear evening. We went
nineteen miles and encamped on the South side opposite
an island.

Sunday 19th. The morning was foggy and there
was some dew. The river is handsome and the
country mountainous. We made 20 1-4 miles and
encamped on the North side in a small bottom.

Monday 20th. We set sail early and had a fine
morning. Passed a creek on the south side and
about 11 came to the mouth of the Muscle-shell river,
a handsome river that comes in on the South side.
The water of the Missouri is becoming more clear.
We here spent the remainder of the day, having come
seven miles. Captain Lewis had an observation here,
which gave 47. 00. 24. North latitude: and Captain
Clarke measured the rivers. The Missouri
here is 222 yards wide, and the Muscle-shell
110 yards. The water of the latter is of a pale
colour, and the current is not rapid; its mouth is
660 miles above Fort Mandan.

Tuesday 21st. We proceeded on early and had
a fine morning; towards the middle of the day the
wind blew hard; but we went on very well for 20
miles, and encamped on a sand-beach on the North
side.

Wednesday 22nd. A cloudy morning. The wind
blew so hard this morning, we did not get under way
until 9 o'clock. The forenoon was cold and disagreeable,
but the afternoon became more pleasant.
We killed a brown bear and some other game on
our way. Having gone 16 1-2 miles we encamped
on the North side.

Thursday 23rd. The morning was clear with a
white frost, and ice as thick as window glass. We
passed two creeks, one on each side of the river:
and two islands which are not common. There are
very few between these and fort Mandan, not more
than six or eight. In the evening we killed a large
bear in the river; but he sunk and we did not get
him.[1] We went 28 1-2 miles and encamped.

Friday 24th. There was again some white frost
this morning. We embarked early; passed a large
creek on the North side and a beautiful island close
on the southern shore. At the head of the island,
came in another creek on the South side. The bottom
of the river, and sand-bars have become much
more gravelly than we found them at any place lower
down. The water is high, rapid and more clear.
At dinner time a party was sent out to bring the
meat of some animals that had been killed at a distance.
Here we left two canoes to wait for them
and proceeded on. We passed a creek on the North
side, and having made 24 1-4 miles encamped on the
South side. The hills are near, on both sides of the
river, and very high.

Saturday 25th. We waited here in the morning
until the canoes came up; and about 7 proceeded
on our voyage. The forenoon was pleasant. We
passed two creeks opposite to each other on the opposite
sides of the river. About 12 we passed a bottom
on the North side with one solitary tree on it,
upon which there was an eagle's nest. The bottoms
here are very small. As we went on this afternoon
some of the party killed three of what the
French and natives call mountain sheep; but they
very little resemble sheep, except in the head, horns
and feet. They are of a dun colour except on the

belly and round the rump, where they are white.
The horns of the male are very large; those of the
female small. They have a fine soft hair. Captain
Clarke calls them the Ibex, and says they resemble
that animal more than any other. They are in size
somewhat larger than a deer. The hills here are
very high and steep. One of our men in an attempt
to climb one had his shoulder dislocated; it was
however replaced without much difficulty. These
hills are very much washed in general: they appear
like great heaps of clay, washing away with every
shower; with scarcely any herbs or grass on any of
them. This evening we passed an island all prairie
except a few trees on the upper end of it. We went
18 miles and encamped on the South side.

Sunday 26th. We set out early in a fine morning,
and passed through a desert country; in which there
is no timber on any part, except a few scattered pines
on the hills. We saw few animals of any kind, but
the Ibex or mountain sheep. One of our men killed
a male, which had horns two feet long and four
inches diameter at the root.[2] We passed two creeks

this forenoon on the North side; and in the evening
one of the men killed a buffaloe. At dark we came
to large rapids, where we had to unite the crews of
two or three canoes to force them through. It was
sometime after night before we could encamp. We
at length, after having gone twenty-one miles, encamped
on the South side in a small grove of timber,
the first we had seen during the day.

Monday 27th. We have now got into a country
which presents little to our view, but scenes of barrenness
and desolation; and see no encouraging prospects
that it will terminate. Having proceeded (by
the course of this river) about two thousand three
hundred miles, it may therefore not be improper to
make two or three general observations respecting
the country we have passed.

From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the
river Platte, a distance of more than six hundred
miles, the land is generally of a good quality, with
a sufficient quantity of timber; in many places very
rich, and the country pleasant and beautiful.

From the confluence of the river Platte with the
Missouri to the Sterile desert we lately entered, a
distance of upwards of fifteen hundred miles the
soil is less rich, and except in the bottoms, the land
of an inferior quality; but may in general be called
good second rate land. The country is rather hilly
than level, though not mountainous, rocky or stony.
The hills in their unsheltered state, are much exposed
to be washed by heavy rains. This kind of country
and soil which has fallen under our observation in
our progress up the Missouri, extends it is understood,
to a great distance on both sides of the river.
Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into
it, cotton wood and willows are frequent in the bottoms
and islands; but the upland is almost entirely
without timber, and consists of large prairies or plains
the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The
grass is generally short on these immense natural
pastures, which in the proper seasons are decorated
with blossoms and flowers of various colours. The
views from the hilis are interesting and grand. Wide
extended plains with their hills and vales, stretching
away in lessening wavy ridges, until by their distance
they fade from the sight; large rivers and
streams in their rapid course, winding in various

meanders; groves of cotton wood and willow along
the waters intersecting the landscapes in different
directions, dividing them into various forms, at
length appearing like dark clouds and sinking in the
horizon; these enlivened with the buffaloe, elk, deer,
and other animals which in vast numbers feed upon
the plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent
objects, which compose the extensive prospects
presented to the view and strike the attention of the
beholder.

The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes;
in general not large and during high water mostly
overflowed.

There are Indian paths along the Missouri and
some in other parts of the country. Those along
that river do not generally follow its windings but
cut off points of land and pursue a direct course.
There are also roads and paths made by the buffaloe
and other animals; some of the buffaloe roads
are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark this
morning until 8 o'clock. The day was fine, but
the wind ahead. We had difficult water, and passed
through the most dismal country I ever beheld; nothing
but barren mountains on both sides of the river,
as far as our view could extend. The bed of the
river is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some
places; but these are chiefly of earth. We went
thirteen miles and encamped in a bottom, just large
enough for the purpose, and made out to get enough
of drift wood to cook with.

Tuesday 28th. We set sail early, had a fine morning,
and proceeded on through this desert country until
about 4 o'clock P. M. when we came to a more
pleasant part. We made twenty-one miles and encamped
on the North side.

Wednesday 29th. We proceeded on early and had
a fine morning; passed two rivers, one on each side.
At 12 it became cloudy and began to rain. We

went about eighteen miles and halted at a handsome
grove of timber on the South side. It rained a little
all the afternoon. Some of the men went out to
hunt and killed an elk. Last night about 12 o'clock
a buffaloe swimming the river happened to land at
one of the periogues, crossed over it and broke two
guns, but not so as to render them useless. He
then went straight on through the men where they
were sleeping, but hurt none of them. As we came
along to-day we passed a place where the Indians had
driven above an hundred head of buffaloe down a precipice
and killed them.

Thursday 30th. The forenoon was cloudy, with
some rain. We did not set out till late in the day.
The hills came in close on the river again, but are
not so high. Some of them are as black as coal
and some white as chalk. We see a great many fresh
Indian tracks or signs as we pass along. It rained
a little all day; we went on slow and encamped early
on the North side, in a small bottom with some
cotton wood, having proceeded on eight miles.
There are no pines to be seen on the hills.

Friday 31st. We embarked early in a cloudy
morning; passed through a mountainous country
but the game is more plenty, and we killed some buffaloe
in our way. About 11 o'clock it began to rain
slowly, and continued raining two hours, when it
cleared up. We passed some very curious cliffs and
rocky peaks, in a long range. Some of them 200
feet high and not more than eight feet thick. They
seem as if built by the hand of man, and are so
numerous that they appear like the ruins of an antient
city. We went 17 1-2 miles and encamped at
the mouth of a handsome creek on the North side.

Saturday 1st June, 1805. We embarked early.
The morning was cloudy, but without rain. We
passed through a more handsome country, than for
some days past. It appears more level and there are

some good bottoms on both sides of the river, but
not large; also a number of beautiful small islands
covered with cotton wood. We saw a number of
mountain sheep. Yesterday our men killed three
of them, that had remarkable large horns; one pair
weighed 25 pounds. We passed a small river on
the North side about 11 o'clock. The water is not
so rapid to-day as usual, but continues high. In the
afternoon we passed a creek about 30 yards wide,
and several small islands. We went 24 miles and
encamped on a small island.

Sunday 2nd. We embarked early in a fine morning.
The hills come close on the river, but are not
so high nor so broken, as we found them a short distance
lower down. This forenoon we passed two
creeks, one on each side, and several islands covered
with cotton wood; but there is not a stick of timber
to be seen any where upon the hills. Some of
the hunters killed a brown bear in a small bottom on
the south side, and having come 18 miles we encamped
just above the bottom on the same side, at the
mouth of a large river.

Monday 3rd. We crossed over to the point between
the two rivers and encamped there. The commanding
officers could not determine which of these
rivers or branches, it was proper to take; and therefore
concluded to send a small party up each of them.
Myself and two men went up the south branch, and
a serjeant and two more up the north. The parties
went up the two branches about 15 miles. We
found the South branch rapid with a great many
islands and the general course South West. The
other party reported the North branch as less rapid,
and not so deep as the other. The North branch is
186 yards wide and the South 372 yards. The
water of the South branch is clear, and that of the
North muddy. About a mile and an half up the
point from the confluence, a handsome small river

[ILLUSTRATION]

Captain Clark and his men shooting Bears.

Page.95.

falls into the North branch, called Rose river. Its
water is muddy, and the current rapid. Captain
Lewis took a meridian altitude at the point, which
gave 47. 24. 12. North atitude. Captain Lewis
and Captain Clarke were not yet satisfied with respect
to the proper river to ascend.

Tuesday 4th. Captain Lewis with six men went
up the North Branch, to see if they could find any
certain marks to determine whether that was the
Missouri or not; and Captain Clarke myself and four
others went up the South branch, for the same purpose
with regard to that branch. About eight miles
above the confluence, the South branch and the small
river which falls into the North branch, are not
more than 200 yards apart. Near this place and
close on the bank of the South branch is a beautiful
spring where we refreshed ourselves with a good
drink of grog; and proceeded on through the high
plains. Here nothing grows but prickly pears, which
are in abundance, and some short grass. We went
on about thirty miles and found the river still extending
in a South West direction. We saw a mountain
to the South about 20 miles off, which appeared
to run East and West, and some spots on it resembling
snow. In the evening we went towards the
river to encamp, where one of the men having got
down to a small point of woods on the bank, before
the rest of the party, was attacked by a huge he-bear,
and his gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards
from him, but the bank there was so steep we could
not get down to his assistance: we, however, fired
at the animal from the place where we stood and he
went off without injuring the man. Having got
down we all encamped in an old Indian lodge for the
night.

Wednesday 5th. Some light showers of rain fell
in the night, and the morning was cloudy. When
preparing to set out we discovered three bears coming

up the river towards us; we therefore halted
a while and killed the whole of them. About 7 we
set out along the plains again, and discovered the
mountain South of us covered with snow, that had
fallen last night. When we had gone about 11 miles
we saw a large mountain to the West of us also covered
with snow. This mountain appeared to run
from North to South, and to be very high. The bearing
of the river is still South West. Captain Clarke
thought this a good course for us to proceed on our
voyage, and we turned back towards the camp again.
We went about 15 miles and struck the small river
about 20 miles from its mouth. Here we killed some
elk and deer and encamped all night. There is a
great deal of timber in the bottoms of this little river,
and plenty of different kinds of game. In these
bottoms I saw the stalks of a plant resembling flax
in every particular.

Thursday 6th. We proceeded down the small
river and killed some deer. About 1 o'clock we
went on the plains again, which we kept on till we
came to the point in the evening. Captain Lewis
and his party had not returned. Some light rain fell
this afternoon

Friday 7th. It rained all day: Captain Lewis and
party did not return.

Saturday 8th. A fine cool morning. About 10
o'clock A. M. the water of the South river, or branch,
became almost of the colour of claret, and remained
so all day. The water of the other branch has the
appearance of milk when contrasted with the water
of this branch in its present state. About 4 in the
afternoon Captain Lewis and his party came to camp.
They had been up the North branch about 60 miles,
and found it navigable that distance; not so full of
islands as the other branch and a greater quantity of
timber near it and plenty of game, which is not the
case on the South branch. Its bearing something

north of west a considerable distance, and then to
the south of west. The party while out killed 18
deer and some elk. From the appearance of the
river where they left it to return, they supposed it
might be navigable a considerable distance further.
They saw no mountains ahead, but one off towards
the north: It was not covered with snow like those
we had seen. Both these rivers abound in fish; and
we caught some of different kinds, but not large.
About five o'clock in the afternoon the weather became
cloudy and cold, and it began to rain. The
officers concluded that the south branch was the most
proper to ascend, which they think is the Missouri.
The other they called Maria's river. At dark the
rain ceased.

Sunday 9th. A fine morning. It was thought
adviseable to leave the large periogue here and part
of the stores and baggage, and some of the men were
engaged in digging a cave to bury them in. The
water of the Missouri changed this morning to its
former colour. The day was fine, but the wind blew
hard from the northwest. One of the men killed an
excellent fat buffaloe. There is a quantity of gooseberry
and choak-cherry bushes on the point, and also
some rabbit berries.

Monday 10th. We hauled our large periogue on
an island in the mouth of Maria's river, and covered
it over with brush. We then began to examine and
assort our effects to see what would be the least
wanted and most proper to leave; but about two it
began to rain and blow so hard, we were obliged to
desist. The rain continued only an hour, and in the
evening we loaded the rest of the craft, and left the
remainder of our stores and baggage to be buried,
consisting of corn, pork, flour, some powder and
lead, and other articles amounting to about one thousand
pounds weight.

Tuesday 11th. A fine day. Captain Lewis and
four men set out this morning to go to the mountains,
which we had discovered towards the west.
The rest of the party were engaged in burying the
baggage and goods which had been left, and preparing
to start the following morning.