University of Virginia Library

CHAP. XXIII.

Thursday 3rd. We had again a fine morning;
collected our herses and set out. Captain Lewis and
his party went down Clarke's river, and Captain
Clarke with the rest of the party went up it. All the
natives accompanied Captain Lewis. We proceeded
on down Clarke's river about 12 miles, when we
came to the forks; and made three rafts to carry
ourselves and baggage over. The river here is about
150 yards wide, and very beautiful. We had to make
three trips with our rafts, and in the evening got all
over safe; when we moved on up the north branch,
which is our way over to the falls of the Missouri,
and after travelling a mile and an half encamped
for the night. Two hunters went out and killed
three deer. The musketoes are worse here than I
have known them at any place, since we left the old
Maha village on the Missouri. This north branch
of the river is called by the natives Isquet-co-qual-la,
which means the road to the buffaloe.[1]

Friday 4th. We had a beautiful morning and
waited here some time in order to have a morning
hunt, as our guides intend to return, and we wish to
give them a plentiful supply of provisions to carry
them back over the mountains. While our hunters

were out a young Indian came to our camp, who had
crossed the mountains after us. At 10 o'clock our
hunters came in, but had not killed any thing. We
were, however, able to furnish them with two deer
and an half, from those that were killed yesterday.
We then gave them some presents and took a friendly
leave of them: and it is but justice to say, that
the whole nation to which they belong, are the most
friendly, honest and ingenious people that we have
seen in the course of our voyage and travels. After
taking our farewell of these good hearted, hospitable
and obliging sons of the west, we proceeded on up
Isquet-co-qual-la through a handsome prairie of about
10 miles, after which the hills come close on the river,
on both sides, and we had a rough road to pass.
Having made 18 miles we encamped for the night;
where the country is very mountainous on both
sides of the river, which runs nearly east and west,
and is a deep rapid stream about 80 yards wide.

Saturday 5th. We had another beautiful morning,
set out early and proceeded on the same course as
yesterday through a rough country, with a number of
branches or small streams flowing from the hills. We
killed one deer, and about 11 o'clock came to a valley
three quarters of a mile wide, all plains, where we
halted to dine and to let our horses feed. The hills
upon each side are handsomely covered with timber of
the fir kind. While we rested here one of our hunters
killed a cabre or antelope. At 1 o'clock we proceeded
on again up the valley. When we had gone
about nine miles we came to and crossed a river,
about 35 yards wide, which flows in with a rapid current
from some snow topped mountains on the north,
where the valley is two or three miles wide. Having
gone about four miles further we came to the head
of the valley, where the hills come close upon the
river for two miles. After we had passed these narrows
we came to another large and beautiful valley

four or five miles wide, and all plains, except some
timber on the river banks. In the evening we encamped
on the bank of a handsome creek which
comes in from the north, a bold stream of 15 yards
wide.

Sunday 6th. We had a fine clear morning with
some white frost, and renewed our journey early;
saw a great many service berries, not yet ripe, and
some flax which grows on these plains. Having
gone about seven miles we crossed a north branch of
the Co-qual-la-isquet, which is 40 yards wide and was
mid-rib deep on our horses, with a rapid current.
About seven miles up the valley we passed a beautiful
small lake; where the river and road leaves the
valley, and bears towards the northeast between two
hills not very large. We kept up the river, through
a small brushy valley about the eighth of a mile wide,
for a mile and an half, and then halted for dinner.
Here our two hunters came to us, and had killed a
deer. We keep two men out every day hunting.
In this small valley there is a considerable quantity
of cotton wood timber; and the musketoes are very
troublesome. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on, passed
a number of handsome streams which fall into the
river, and a number of old Indian lodges. As we
advance the valley becomes more extensive, and is
all plain. At night we encamped on a beautiful
creek, having travelled twenty five miles. Our hunters
killed four deer to-day.

Monday 7th. We had a wet night, and a cloudy
morning Continued our journey early along the
valley, which is very beautiful with a great deal of
clover in its plains. Having gone about five miles, we
crossed the main branch of the river, which comes
in from the north; and up which the road goes
about five miles further and then takes over a hill towards
the east. On the top of this hill there are two
beautiful ponds, of about three acres in size. We

passed over the ridge and struck a small stream,
which we at first thought was of the head waters of
the Missouri, but found it was not. Here we halted
for dinner, and after staying three hours, proceeded,
on four miles up the branch, when we came to the
dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri
and Columbia; passed over the ridge and came to a
fine spring the waters of which run into the Missouri.
We then kept down this stream or branch about a
mile; then turned a north course along the side of
the dividing ridge for eight miles, passing a number
of small streams or branches, and at 9 o'clock at
night encamped after coming 32 miles.

Tuesday 8th. The morning was pleasant with
some white frost. We started early and proceeded
on nearly north; saw several deer, cabre and wolves
in the plains, and after going three miles and an half
passed Torrent creek, a large creek that runs into
Medicine river. Shortly after we passed this creek
we went off the path or trail, travelled straight across
the plains, and in about fifteen miles struck Medicine
river, close above the forks where we halted for dinner;
and one of our hunters killed a deer and a
eabre. In the afternoon we proceeded down Medicine
liver nine miles; and having come in the whole
to-day twenty-eight miles encamped for the night;
and found the musketoes very troublesome

Wednesday 9th. A cloudy morning. We set out
early to go down the river; but had not proceeded
far until it began to rain, and we halted at some old
Indian lodges, where we took shelter. In an hour's
time the rain slackened, and we proceeded on; but
had not gone far before it began to rain again, and
the weather was very cold for the season. At noon
we came up with our hunters, who had killed a large
buffaloe; so we halted and some of us went and
dressed it, and brought in the best of the meat
which was very good. We encamped here and lay

by during the afternoon as the rain continued during
the whole of it.

Thursday 10th. At dark last evening the weather
cleared up, and was cold all night. This morning
was clear and cold, and all the mountains in sight
were covered with snow, which fell yesterday and
last night.[2] At 8 o'clock we started down the river,
and in the course of the day our hunters killed five
deer, two elk and a bear. The road was very muddy
after the rain. The country on both sides is composed
of beautiful plains; the river about 80 yards
wide and tolerably straight, with some cotton wood
timber on its banks; and plenty of game of different
kinds ranging through the plains. Having made 24
miles we encamped for the night.

Friday 11th. This was a fine morning and we set
out early to cross the point, and having gone eight
miles, came to the Missouri at the Bear islands,
nearly opposite our old encampment. Here our
hunters, in a short time, killed five buffaloe; and we
saved the best of the meat; and of the skins made two
canoes to transport ourselves and baggage across the
river. The buffaloe are in large droves about this place

Saturday 12th. Again a fine morning. We went
out to collect our horses and found that ten of them
were missing. I then set out to look for them, went
seven miles up Medicine river, where I found three
of them and returned to camp. Two more went to
hunt for them, and the rest of us crossed the river in
our new craft which we find answer the purpose very

[ILLUSTRATION]

An American having struck a Bear but not killed him, escapesinto a Tree.

Page 239.

well. At night one of the men returned without
finding the lost horses.

Sunday 13th. The morning was pleasant, and we
moved about a mile up to our old encampment;
opened a deposit we had made here and found some
things spoiled; and the other man that went to look for
the horses not being returned we remained here all
day airing and sunning the baggage and stores. The
musketoes torment us very much, and the welves continually
howl night and day around our camp.

Monday 14th. There was a pleasant morning.—
We staid here also to day; and the musketoes continued
to torment us until about noon, when a fine
breeze of wind arose and drove them, for a while
away. We deposited the most valuable part of our
baggage and stores on a large island so that if the
Indians came they would not get it.

Tuesday 15th. We had pleasant weather. One
of our men started to go down to the other end of
the portage, to see if the periogue was safe, which
we had left there; and in the afternoon the man who
had gone after the horses returned unsuccessful;
but as he saw some fresh Indian signs he supposes
they were stolen and taken back over the dividing
ridge. Capt. Lewis therefore concluded to take fewer
men and horses with him than he had intended on
his excursion up Maria's river. In the evening the
man who had started to go to the other end of the
portage, returned without being there. A white bear
met him at Willow creek, that so frightened his
horse, that he threw him off among the feet of the
animal; but he fortunately (being too near to shoot)
had sufficient presence of mind to hit the bear on the
head with his gun; and the stroke so stunned it, that
it gave him time to get up a tree close by before it
could seize him. The blow, however, broke the gun
and rendered it useless; and the bear watched him
about three hours and went away; when he came

down, caught his horse about two miles distant and
returned to camp. These bears are very numerous
in this part of the country and very dangerous, as they
will attack a man every opportunity.

Wednesday 16th. There was a fine morning. We
collected our horses, of which Capt. Lewis took six
and left four to haul the canoes and baggage over the
portage, and then started to go up Maria's river with
only three hunters. We continued here to repair our
waggons or truckles to transport the baggage and canoes
on when the men with them should arrive.—
The musquitoes are still very troublesome.

When Capt. Lewis left us, he gave orders that we
should wait at the mouth of Maria's river to the 1st
of Sept. at which time should he not arrive, we were
to proceed on and join Capt. Clarke at the mouth of
the Yellow-stone river, and then to return home: but
informed us, that should his life and health be preserved
he would meet us at the mouth of Maria's river
on the 5th of August.

Thursday 17th. We had a pleasant day, and high
wind; which drives away the musquitoes and relieves
us from those tormenting insects.

Friday, 18th. There was another pleasant day, and
I went down with three of the men to the lower end
of the portage to examine the periogue and deposit
there, and found all safe. We took some tobacco out
of the deposit, covered up all again, until the party
should arrive with the canoes, and returned to camp.

Saturday 19th. The weather continues pleasant and
most of the men are employed in dressing skins, as
we have got all ready for crossing the portage as
soon as the canoes arrive. The musquitoes were
very troublesome to day. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon
a sergeant and nine men arrived at our camp
with the canoes and some baggage. They informed
me that they had a good passage over the mountains
to the Missouri; and on their way saw a boiling-hot

spring, which in twenty-five minutes would
boil meat put into it quite well and fit for eating.
This spring is on the head waters of Wisdom river.
They had got to the canoe-deposit on the 8th instant
and found every thing safe: the whole party then
came down to the forks at the mouth of Jefferson
river; where Capt. Clarke with ten men and the interpreter
left them and went up Gallatin's river in
order to cross over to the Jaune, or Yellow-stone river.
They had plenty of provisions all the way. In
the evening we hauled the canoes out to dry.

Sunday 20th. We had a fine day; but the musquitoes
were very bad. We concluded to stay here
all day, as the men, who had come with the canoes
were fatigued; and in the evening tried our horses
in harness and found they would draw very well.

Monday 21st. A pleasant morning. One of the
men went out for the horses; and the rest of us put
two canoes on the waggons, and moved them forward
by hand some distance, when the man returned without
finding-the horses. Two more men went out to
look for them, and at noon came back without finding
them. In the afternoon some more men went to look
for them, who at night returned also without seeing
any thing of them; and we lay where the canoes
were all night.

Tuesday 22nd. We had a fine morning. Eight of
us started in various directions to look for the horses,
and in a short time two of the men found them;
harnessed them in the waggons and moved on about
four miles, when one of the axletrees broke; and
they returned to the river to mend it. Myself and
one of the men did not return till dark, and then came
to the place where the canoes were upon the plains,
with some of the men. Here a heavy shower of rain
came on with thunder and lightning; and we remained
at this place all night.

Wednesday 23rd. There was a pleasant morning
after the rain; and I went with the man who came
with me last night, and joined the party at the river.
They had repaired the waggons and put on two more
canoes; one of which was very large and gave us a
great deal of trouble, as we could not make axletrees
out of the willow that would stand more than six on
eight miles. At five o'clock we got to willow creek,
and encamped for the night; and made a new axletree.
In our way to-day one of our men cut his leg
very bad with a knife, which so lamed him that he
had to ride in one of the canoes.

Thursday 24th. This was a cloudy morning. I
was very much indisposed last night and am yet very
unwell. I therefore staid at this camp, and the party
went back for two more canoes. About 3 o'clock
one of the waggons with a canoe arrived; and the
party with it; having let the horses feed a while,
and taken dinner, they proceeded on to Portage river.
About an hour after they started a very heavy shower
of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning,
came on, and lasted about an hour and an half. After
this we had a fine evening, and a little before
sunset the other waggon with a canoe arrived; when
we encamped for the night. The man who cut his
leg is still very lame and continues at this camp.

Friday 25th. This was a fine moring with a very
heavy dew. The party set out early to Portage
river with the canoe; and in a short time the men
with the other waggon came back; I was by this
time so much recovered as to be able to return with
the party for another canoe; which is all we will
bring over, as the other is very heavy and injured;
and we expect that the five small ones with the periegues
will be sufficient to carry ourselves and baggage
down the Missouri. About 2 o'clock the waggons
met at Willow creek, when we had another very
Leavy shower of rain accompanied with thunder and

lightning. At 3 o'clock we set out with both the
waggons and 2 canoes to Portage river; it rained
on us hard all the way, and the road was so muddy
that the horses were not able to haul the loads,
without the assistance of every man at the waggons.
At night we arrived at Portage river, and then had
four canoes there safe.

Saturday 26th. The morning was cloudy. Eight
of us went back to Willow creek for the other canoe,
and the rest of the party were employed in taking
down the canoes and baggage to the lower end of the
portage, where the periogue had been left. It rained
very hard all night, which has made the plains
so muddy, that it is with the greatest difficulty we
can get along with the canoe; though in the evening,
after a hard day's labour, we got her safe to
Portage river, and the men run her down to the lower
landing place, where we encamped. A few drops
of rain fell in the course of the day.