University of Virginia Library

CHAP. XIX.

Wednesday 9th. The morning was pleasant; we
therefore loaded our canoes and proceeded on till 11
o'clock when we stopped at a large Indian village on
the north side; but a number of the huts were unoccupied.
They are of the Al-e-is nation. At the
time we halted 3 canoe loads of them were setting
out for the falls to fish. We took breakfast here
and bought 5 dogs from them. The women all wear
the small leather bandage, but are quite naked otherwise,
except what is covered by the small robe they
wear round their shoulders. In the afternoon the
weather became cloudy and some rain fell. In the
evening we came to a large rapid at the lower end of
Strawberry island; where there are a number of the
natives about settling on the north side. Here we
crossed over, after buying two dogs from them, and
encamped behind the island. Some rain continued
falling.

Thursday 10th. A party of men went out to collect
pitch to repair one of our canoes, which was spilt;
and the rest went round the point of the island, and
took the canoes over the rapid, one at a time, with
the assistance of a line. When we got over the rapids
we crossed to another village of the natives on
the north side, where I saw the skin of a wild sheep,
which had fine beautiful wool on it. Here we took
breakfast and waited the arrival of the other canoe,
which in about an hour came up; and the men when
out for pitch killed 3 deer. We proceeded on, and
the water was so rapid, that we had to tow the canoes
up by the line almost all the way to the landing at
the lower end of the portage, a distance of about six

miles. In passing a bad place the tow-line of the small
canoe, which the hunters had on ahead, broke; but
fortunately there was nothing in her, as the three
hunters were on shore dragging her up, and had
taken out all the loading. As she passed by us Capt.
Lewis got some of the natives to bring her to shore.
In the evening we got to the end of the portage,
which is about two miles. We took our baggage to
the top of the hill and remained with it all night;
during which some showers of rain fell.

Friday 11th. We had a cloudy morning. All our
men, who were able set out to take the canoes
through the grand shoot. About 1 o'clock we got
two over; and then proceeded to take two more,
which we succeeded in after great toil and danger;
and 3 hunters went on ahead in the least.

Saturday 12th. This morning was wet. We all
set out to take the other canoe over; but after we
had fastened the rope to her she swung out into the
current, which was so strong, that it pulled the rope
out of the men's hands and went down the river.—
We then went to carry our baggage across the portage,
which was a very fatiguing business; but about
sunset we got all over. It rained at intervals all day;
and upon the very high mountains on the south side
of the river, snow fell and continued on the trees and
rocks during the whole of the day. We had a number
of the natives about us in the day time; but they
left us at night. We encamped, all excessively
fatigued, at the upper end of the portage.

Sunday 13th. There was a cloudy morning. Having
divided the load of the lost canoe among the 4
that were left, we renewed our voyage and passed a
large deserted village on the north side. Captain
Lewis with the two small canoes, crossed to the south
side, where there is a large village inhabited, to endeavour
to purchase a small canoe or two, as we were
very much crowded in the four we had. Capt. Clarke

with the two large canoes continued on along the
northern shore, till we passed Crusatte's river, when
the wind rose so high we could not go on, so we halted
and waited for Capt. Lewis. Two hunters went
out about 3 hours, but killed nothing. By this time
the wind fell and we went on 3 miles to a better harbour,
where we halted on the north side of the river.
Capt. Clarke and 3 men went out to hunt; and Capt.
Lewis having come up and crossed over to us, we
fixed our camp for the night. He got 2 canoes and
3 dogs from the inhabitants of the large village.
They are of the Wey-eh-hoo nation and have twelve
lodges here. At dark Capt. Clarke and party returned
and had killed two deer.

Monday 14th. The morning was fine with some
fog. About 9 o'clock our 3 hunters, who had gone
ahead and proceeded up Crusatte's river some distance
returned, having killed 4 deer. At 10 o'clock
we continued our voyage, and at I came to a new
settlement of the natives on the north side, where we
saw some horses, the first we have seen since October
last. These horses appeared in good case. The
wind blew hard from the southwest and the weather
was clear and cool, but there has been no frost lately,
except on the tops of the high hills. We staid
here three hours and then proceeded on; passed
several Indian camps, and halted at a small creek on
the north side, where there are a number of Indian
lodges.

Tuesday 15th. The morning was fair. The Commanding
Officers attempted to purchase some horses,
but could not agree with the Indians on the price; so
we proceeded on about 4 miles to another village, at
the mouth of Catarack river. Here we got some
Shap-e-leel, a kind of bread the natives make of roots,
and bake in the sun; and which is strong and palatable.
Here another trial was made to get some horses, but
without success; and we again proceeded on; passed

a place where there was a village in good order last
fall when we went down; but has been lately torn
down, and again erected at a short distance from the
old ground where it formerly stood. The reason of
this removal I cannot conjecture, unless to avoid the
fieas, which are more numerous in this country than
any insects I ever saw.[1] About three o'clock in the
afternoon we came to Rock Camp, where we staid
two days as we went down. Some hunters went out
in the evening and killed a deer.

Wednesday 16th. This was a pleasant day. As we
did not expect to be able to navigate the Columbia
river much farther, Captain Clarke, with some of the
men and some goods went over the river to endeavour
to procure some horses. I was out hunting
this morning and killed a rattlesnake among the
rocks. Some hunters that went out in the morning
returned in the evening and had killed two deer, some
ducks and four squirrels, three of a beautiful speckled
kind, and as large as a common grey squirrel, but
the tail not so bushy.

Thursday 17th. This was a fine morning. Some
hunters went out and we remained at this camp all
day; in the evening our hunters came in and had
killed a deer. We made 12 packsaddles. Captain
Clarke still remains over the river.

Friday 18th. We had fine weather and all set out
from this place, and proceeded on with great difficulty
and danger to the foot of the long narrows; and
expect to be able to take the canoes no further.

Here we met one of the men from Captain Clarke
with 4 horses. In coming up, one of our small
canoes got split so that we were obliged to carry the
load two miles by land to this place. Wood here is
very scarce, as the Columbia plains have commenced.
Several of the men went up to the village with their
buffaloe robes, to dispose of them for horses. Could
we get about 12 horses we would be able to go by
land.

Saturday 19th. The morning was cloudy and all
hands were engaged in carrying the baggage and canoes
over the portage, which is two miles in length.
Five more horses were got in the course of the day.
Some light showers of rain fell in the afternoon, and
about 4 o'clock, we got all our baggage and canoes
across except the two large ones, of which we made
firewood. At the same time Captain Clarke and
four men went on ahead to the village at the great
falls to endeavour to get some more horses, by the
time we arrive there, a distance of about 8 miles
from this village. In the evening the weather cleared
up and we had a fine night.

Sunday 20th. This was a pleasant morning with
some white frost. We got two more horses and lost
one; remained here all day and had a great deal of
trouble with our horses, as they are all studs, and
break almost every rope we can raise. We had to
tie them up at night, and one broke away notwithstanding
all our care and attention. We have also
much trouble with the Indians as they are disposed
to steal whenever they have an opportunity. With
all our care they stole 4 or 5 tomahawks.

Monday 21st. This was another pleasant morning
with some white frost. We found the horse, which
had broke away last night, and made preparations
for setting out from this place. While we were
making preparations to start, an Indian stole some
iron articles from among the men's hands; which so

irritated Captain Lewis, that he struck him; which
was the first act of the kind, that had happened during
the expedition. The Indians however did not
resent it, otherwise it is probable we would have had
a skirmish with them. This morning we disposed
of two canoes and used another for firewood. At
10 o'clock we set out from the first narrows with 9
horses of our own and one we borrowed, and 2 canoes
all loaded heavy. I went with three other men in
the canoes, and had some difficulty in passing the
short narrows. About 3 in the afternoon we arrived
at the great falls of Columbia, where we met with
Captain Clarke and the men that were with him.
Here we got another horse; carried our canoes and
baggage round the falls and halted for dinner. We
also got some dogs here and shapaleel, which we
subsist on chiefly at present. We halted here two
hours and then proceeded on again. The party that
went by land had to leave the river, and take out to
the hill a part of the way. I crossed with my canoe
to the south side where there is the best water, and
passed a large rock island, opposite to which the
Sho-sho-ne river flows in from the south. We went
on till dark, and then run our small canoe among
some willows, and laid down to sleep. We did not
make any fire for fear the savages, who are very numerous
along this part of the river, might come and
rob us.

Tuesday 22nd. This was a pleasant morning and
high wind. We proceeded on about 3 miles, when
the wind became so violent, that we could not proceed
any further, and halted and unloaded our canoes.
Having remained here two hours, the other canoe
came up, and we proceeded on though the wind was
high and river rough. At sunset I crossed over,
where the party going by land came in sight, and
halted at a small village on the north side; but the
other canoe kept on along the southern shore. In

the course of this day two more horses were procured,
and at this small village we got some more dogs and
shapaleel.

Wednesday 23rd. We had a cloudy morning. I
went also by water to day, and we had very laborious
work in getting along. In the evening we met the
party at a large village of the Wal-la-waltz nation on
the north side of the river; where the other canoe
had also arrived. Here we halted, unloaded the
canoes and encamped. A horse had got away last
night and could not be found.

Thursday 24th. The weather was pleasant. We
lost another horse last night, and were detained here
this morning, looking for him. We got six horses
at this place, three of which were borrowed from an
Indian who was going with his family along with us.
We sold our two small canoes; and at noon an Indian
who had gone to look for the lost horse returned
with him. At 2 o'clock we all started by land on
the north side of the river, accompanied by several
of the natives with their families and horses. We
entered the low country, the great and beautiful plains
of Columbia, and proceeded on till evening when we
encamped at two mat-lodges of the natives, and got
two dogs and some shapaleel. The natives who
were travelling in our party encamped with us.

Friday 25th. The morning was pleasant, and we
set out early. At 10 o'clock we met a great many
of the natives on horseback, who turned back with us.
At noon we came to a very large band of the Wal-a-waltz
nation, the most numerous we had seen on the
Columbia; I suppose it consisted of 500 persons,
men, women and children; and all of them tolerably
well clothed with robes of the skins of the deer, the
ibex or big horned animal and buffaloe. They have
a great many horses and lately came to the river to
fish for salmon. We halted here two hours and then
went on. The men in general complain of their feet,

being sore; and the officers have to go on foot to
permit some of them to ride. We went 13 miles
and encamped at a small grove of willows. There
being no other wood for a considerable distance.

Saturday 26th. Last night Capt. Lewis and Capt.
Clarke got each a horse, and we set out early, had a
fine morning, and proceeded on very well, most
of the men having their knapsacks carried on the
horses. At noon we halted and took a little of our
dried meat, which is the only food we have. At 2
o'clock we continued our journey, and the officers
were obliged to go on foot again, to let some of the
men ride whose feet were very sore. The country is
level and has a most beautiful appearance. On these
plains there is a species of clover, as large as any I
have seen, and has a large red handsome blossom.
The leaves are not quite so large as those of the red
clover cultivated in the Atlantic States, but has seven
and eight leaves on a branch. We were overtaken and
passed by a great number of the natives, with large
droves of horses, that look well and are in good order.
We travelled about 25 miles and encamped at a small
grove of willows.

Sunday 27th. The morning was cloudy with some
light showers of rain; and about 9 o'clock we proceeded
on through the plains, accompanied by a great
many of the natives. Some light showers of rain fell
at intervals during the day; and after halting about
2 hours we continued our journey to sunset, when we
came to a large village of mat-lodges, belonging to a
band of the Wal-la-wal-las, who have encamped here
on the north side of the river. Here we remained all
night, and the natives were good enough to supply us
with some faggots of brush, they had gathered in
the plains from the sage bushes, which grow in great
abundance on some parts of these plains and are very
large.

Monday 28th. The morning was pleasant, and we

spent it with the Indians, and got dogs, fish, shap-a-leel
and roots from them. At 10 o'clock we began to
take our horses over the river at this place, as we can
lessen our journey considerably by crossing: We
borrowed canoes from the natives, and swam the
horses along side, and at two o'clock in the afternoon
had them all landed safe, after a good deal of trouble.
From this place we can discover a range of mountains
covered with snow, in a south east direction and about
fifty miles distant. In the evening the weather was
cloudy, and it thundered and threatened rain, a few
drops of which fell. We remained here all night,
and about dark above an hundred of the natives
came down from the forks to see us. They joined
with those at this place and performed a great dance.
We were a very interesting sight to the surrounding
crowd, as nine-tenths of them had never before seen a
white man.

Tuesday 29th. The natives remained about our
camp all night; and we bought some dogs and a
horse from them. The day was fair, and we got
all our baggage transported to the south side of the
river. Here are a great many of the natives encamped
on a large creek, which comes in from the south,
and those on the north side are moving over as fast as
they can. We encamped on a creek, and got three
horses, some dogs, shap-a-leel, some roots called
com-mas and other small roots, which were good to
eat and nourishing.

Wednesday 30th. This was a cloudy morning, and
we staid here till about 11 o'clock to collect our horses,
got two more; and have now altogether twenty-three
horses. We then set out from Wal-la-wal-la
river and nation; proceeded on about fourteen miles
through an extensive plain, when we struck a branch
of the Wal-la-wal-la river, and halted for the night.
We saw no animals or birds of any kind, except two
pheasants, one of which Capt. Clarke killed. The

whole of this plain is of a sandy surface and affords
but thin grass, with some branches of shrubs which
resemble sage or hyssop. On the south side of this
branch the soil is of earth and rich, covered with
grass, and very handsome. We are still accompanied
by several of the natives.

Thursday 1st May, 1806. Some rain fell during
the night and the morning continues cloudy. We set
out early and travelled up the branch, which is a fine
stream about twenty yards wide, with some cottonwood,
birch and willows on its banks. One of four
hunters, who went forward very early this morning,
returned at noon with a beaver he had killed; other
game is scarce. We then halted to dine, where the
road forks, one going up the branch an east course,
and the other north towards the large river. Here
our Indians differed in opinion with respect to the
best road to be taken. The man with the family
and gang of horses said he would go across to the
Great river to-morrow; but we followed the opinion
of the young man our guide, and proceeded on up
the creek. We travelled about twenty-five miles,
and encamped without any of the natives, except
our guide, who generally keeps with the hunters,
one of whom killed a deer this evening. The higher
we go up the creek the cotton-wood is more large and
plenty; and the plains beautiful.

Friday 2nd. A fine morning. Last night about 9
o'clock, three of the Wal-la-wal-las came up with us,
and brought a steel trap that had been left at our camp
on the north side of the Columbia, opposite the mouth
of Wal-la-wal-la river; perhaps one of the greatest
instances of honesty ever known among Indians.
Some hunters went on ahead, and having collected
our horses, we found one missing; some of the men
went to look for him, and brought him back. We
then continued our journey up this branch; and saw
to our right a range of high hills covered with timber

and snow, not more than ten miles distant. We
went fifteen miles and encamped on the north fork,
the creek having forked about two miles below our
encampment. The south fork is the largest, and
from its course is supposed to issue from those snow-topped
hills on our right. In the evening our hunters
joined us, and had killed only one beaver and an
otter. The three Indians remained with us all day;
and at night we see three steel traps, there being a
great many beaver signs on this branch.

Saturday 3rd. We had a wet uncomfortable morning,
and when the horses were collected one was
found missing, and one of our hunters went back after
him, while the rest of us continued our journey.
This morning our guide and the three other Indians
went on ahead. We continued our route about ten
miles, when we struck a creek, having left the other
entirely to our right and halted. Our hunter came
up with the horse. The wind was very high this
forenoon, and rather cold for the season; with some
rain. We continued about two hours and eat the
last of our dried meat; and are altogether without
other provisions, as our stock of dogs is exhausted,
and we can kill no game in these plains. In the
evening we met a chief and nine of his men, who
appeared glad to see us. We encamped on a small
branch or spring, as it was too far to go over the hills.
The Indians say we can get over to-morrow by noon.
The wind continued to blow hard and some snow
showers fell in the afternoon.

Sunday 4th. We had a severe frost last night; and
the morning was cold and clear. We were early on
our march over a handsome plain; and came to another
creek, which we kept down until we came to
Lewis's river, some distance below the forks of Koos-koos-ke;
where we halted at an Indian lodge, and
could get nothing to eat, except some bread made
of a kind of roots I was unacquainted with. We had

however, a dog, which we bought from the Indians,
who met us last night; but this was a scanty allowance
for thirty odd hungry men. We remained here
about two hours, got a dog, and proceeded up the
south side of Lewis's river, about three miles, when
we met with one of our old chiefs, who had come
down with us last fall; and who advised us to cross
the river, as the best road is on the north side. We
therefore were occupied in crossing, during the remainder
of the day as we could raise but four small
canoes from the natives at this place. We however,
by dark got all safe over, and encamped on the north
side, accompanied by a great many of the natives,
who appear a friendly and well disposed people.