University of Virginia Library

CHAP. XVI.

We are now at the end of our voyage, which
has been completely accomplished according to the
intention of the expedition, the object of which was
to discover a passage by the way of the Missouri and
Columbia rivers to the Pacific ocean; notwithstanding
the difficulties, privations and dangers, which we
had to encounter, endure and surmount.

This morning 6 of the men went out to hunt; and
about 3 o'clock all came in but one. They had killed
2 deer, 9 brants, 2 geese, 1 crane, and 3 ducks. The
day being clear we got all our baggage dried, and in
good order; and quietly rested until Capt. Lewis and
his party should return.

Sunday 17th. We had a fine pleasant clear morning,
and 6 hunters went out. About noon they all
came in: but the hunter who remained out last night
did not return. He had killed 2 deer and the other
men brought them in with some brants and a deer
they had killed. About the same time Capt. Lewis,
and his party returned They had been round the bay
and seen where white people had been in the course
of the summer: but they had all sailed away. Capt.
Lewis and his party killed a deer and some brants.
In the evening the remaining hunter came in and had
killed another deer.

There are but few Indians settled down about the
seashore; their dress is similar to that of some of
those above. The women have a kind of fringe petticoats,
made of filaments or tassels of the white cedar
bark wrought with a string at the upper part,
which is tied round the waist. These tassels or
fringe are of some use as a covering, while the ladies

are standing erect and the weather calm; but in any
other position, or when the wind blows, their charms
have but a precarious defence.

A number of both sexes keep about our camp;
some have robes made of muskrat skins sewed
together, and I saw some of loon-skins. Their diet
is chiefly fish and roots.

MEMORANDUM

                                                           

Of the computed distance in miles to the furthest point of discovery on the Pacific ocean, from the place where the canoes were deposited near the head of the Missouri, which from its mouth is	3096
From place of deposit to head spring	24
To first fork of the Sho-sho-ne river	14
To first large fork down the river	18
To forks of the road at mouth of Tour creek	14
To fishing creek, after leaving the river	23
To Flathead, or Clarke's river at Fish camp	41
To the mouth of Travellers-rest creek	76
To the foot of the great range of Mountains, east side	12
To ditto ditto ditto west side	130
To the Flathead village in a plain	3
To the Koos-koos-ke river	18
To the Canoe camp, at the forks	6
To the Ki-moo-ee-nem	60
To the Great Columbia, by Lewis's river	140
To the mouth of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake river	162
To the Great Falls of Columbia	6
To the Short Narrows	3
To the Long ditto.	3
To the mouth of Catarack river, north side	23
To the Grand Shoot, or Rapids	42
To the Last Rapids, or Strawberry island	6
To the mouth of Quicksand river, south side	26
To Shallow Bay, at salt water	136
To Blustry Point, on north side	13
To Point Open-slope, below encampment	3
To Chin-Ook river at the bottom of Haley's Bay	12
To Cape Disappointment on Western ocean	13
To Capt. Clarke's tour N. W. along coast	10
miles	4133

Monday 18th. The morning was cloudy. Capt.
Clarke and 10 men went down to Cape Disappointment,
to get a more full view of the ocean; and 3
went out to hunt. In the course of the day we got
some dried salmon and roots from the natives. In
the evening our hunters came in with a deer, 2 brants,
a squirrel, a hawk, and a flounder, which the tide had
thrown on a sand-bar. The Indians still remained with
us and Capt. Lewis got a specimen of their language.
Those, who live about the seashore, and on Rogue's-harbour
creek, a large creek that comes in on the
north side of the bay, call themselves the Chin-Ook
nation.

Tuesday 19th. We had a cloudy, rainy morning;
but some of the hunters went out. About 1 o'clock
the natives, who, had been with us some time, went
away; and at 4 another party of the same nation
came, and encamped close by us. They consisted of
15 men and one squaw. The dress of the squaw was
the same with those of the others. Several of the
men have robes made of brant skins: one of them
had a hat made of the bark of white cedar and bear-grass,
very handsomely wrought and water proof.—
One of our party purchased it for an old razor. Our
hunters killed 3 deer to day.

Wednesday 20th. We had a fine clear morning;
the Indians remained at our camp; and Capt. Lewis
gave one of them a medal, as he ranked as a chief in
the nation. One of the men went out to hunt in the

morning, and in a short time killed 2 deer. This day
continued clear and pleasant throughout. At 4 o'clock
in the afternoon Capt Clarke and his party returned
to camp, and had killed a deer and some brants.
They had been about 10 miles north of the cape, and
found the country along the seashore level, with
spruce-pine timber, and some prairies and ponds of
water. They killed a remarkably large buzzard, of a
species different from any I had seen. It was 9 feet
across the wings, and 3 feet 10 inches from the bill to
the tail. They found some pumice stones, which had
been thrown out by the waves, of a quality superior
to those on the Missouri; also a number of shells of
different kinds.

Thursday 21st. A cloudy morning. About 8 o'clock
all the natives left us. The wind blew so violent to day,
and the waves ran so high, that we could not set out
on our return, which is our intention to do as soon as
the weather and water will permit. The season being
so far advanced, we wish to establish our winter
quarters as soon as possible. One of the natives here
had a robe of sea-otter skins, of the finest fur I ever
saw; which the Commanding Officers wanted very
much, and offered two blankets for it, which the
owner refused, and said he would not take five. He
wanted beads of a blue colour, of which we had none,
but some that were on a belt belonging to our interpreter's
squaw; so they gave him the belt for the
skins. In the evening more of the natives came to
our camp, and the night was very wet and disagreeable.

Friday 22nd. This was a rainy and stormy morning;
and we were not yet able to set out: the wind
blew very hard from the south, and the river was
rougher than it has been since we came here. At
noon the tide was higher than common, and one
of our canoes got among some logs, and was split
The rain and wind continued all day violent.

Saturday 23rd. The weather was somewhat cloudy
but more calm. Some of the men went out to hunt
and some to mend the canoe which had been split in
the storm yesterday. The natives still stay with us,
and have a few roots and berries to subsist on at present;
but I cannot conjecture how they live during
the winter. They have no mockasons or leggins of
any kind; and scarce any other covering than the
small robes, which were mentioned before.

In the afternoon 10 of the Clat-sop nation, that
live on the south side of the river came over to our
camp. These are also naked, except the small robes
which hardly cover their shoulders. One of these
men had the reddest hair I ever saw, and a fair skin
much freckled. In the evening our hunters came
in, and had killed 3 deer, 8 brants and 12 ducks.—
In the evening the weather cleared and we had a fine
night.

Sunday 24th. The morning was fine with some
white frost. As this was a fine clear day, it was
thought proper to remain here in order to take some
observations, which the bad weather had before rendered
impossible. The latitude of this bay was found
to be 46° 19 11 .7 north;[1] and at our camp at the
head of the bay the river is 3 miles and 660 yards
wide. The natives staid with us all day. At night
the party were consulted by the Commanding Officers,

as to the place most proper for winter quarters;
and the most of them were of opinion, that it
would be best, in the first place, to go over to the
south side of the river, and ascertain whether good
hunting ground could be found there. Should that
be the case, it would be a more eligible place than
higher up the river, on account of getting salt, as
that is a very scarce article with us.

Monday 25th. The morning was pleasant, though
cloudy, with a white frost. We loaded our canoes
and proceeded on: went about 9 miles and made an
attempt to cross the river, but failed; we therefore
kept up the north side, round Shallow-bay, and encamped
about 4 miles above it.

Tuesday 26th. The morning of this day was cloudy
and wet; but we set out early, went about a mile and
then crossed the river; passing in our way several
islands. Immediately after we crossed we came to a
small village of the natives, and procured a few roots,
called Wapto, from them, and then proceeded on,
coasting down the bay on the south side. The whole
of the day was wet and unpleasant, and in the evening
we encamped for the night.

Wednesday 27th. We set out early in a wet morning;
coasted-round, and turned a sharp cape about a
mile; when we found the swells running so high that
we had to halt, unload our canoes and haul them out
on the shore. Here we remained the afternoon and
had a very wet night.

Thursday 28th. We had a wet windy morning;
some of the hunters went out, but had no luck. It
rained all day; and we had here no fresh water,
but what was taken out of the canoes as the rain fell.

Friday 29th. The weather continues cloudy and
wet. Capt. Lewis with 4 men started, to go down
and examine whether there is good hunting and whether
we can winter near the salt water. Some of the
hunters went out and in the evening returned without

killing any game, which appears scarce. The
hunting is also difficult, the country being full of
thickets and fallen timber. There were some showers
of rain and hail during the day.

Saturday 30th. This was a fair day; and some
hunters went round the cape and killed two or three
ducks. This is all the supply of fresh provisions
that we have had since we have been at this camp.
We live almost altogether on pounded salmon. The
whole of the day was fair, pleasant and warm for the
season.

Sunday 1st December 1805. The whole of this day
was cloudy. Some of the hunters went out but had
not the fortune to kill any thing, not even a duck.

Monday 2nd. The day was again cloudy and wet.
Some of the hunters went out in the morning; and
in the afternoon one of them came in, after killing a
fine elk. A party of the men went out to bring in the
meat, which is a very seasonable supply, a number
complaining of the bad effects of the fish diet. Neither
the hunters nor the men, who went for the meat
returned. In the evening the weather became clear,
and we had a fine night.

Tuesday 3rd. The morning was foggy. About 9
o'clock the men came in with the meat of the elk.
They had a disagreeable trip, it being dark before
they arrived at the place where the elk had been
killed; and the darkness, fallen timber and underbrush
prevented their return; so that they had to
encamp out all night. Six of the natives came to our
camp, the first who had appeared since our arrival,
and after staying an hour proceeded down the river.
The greater part of the day was fair, but in the evening
it clouded over and rained again. At dark our
other two hunters came in, and had killed 6 elk some
distance from the river.

Wednesday 4th. We had a cloudy rainy morning.
The river was so rough, we could not set out with

the canoes, and six or seven men were sent to dress
the elk that had been killed and take care of the
meat. The rain continued all day.

Thursday 5th. Again we had a wet stormy day, so
that the men were unable to proceed with the canoes.
About 11 o'clock Capt. Lewis and three of his party
came back to camp; the other two were left to take
care of some meat they had killed. They have found
a place about 15 miles from this camp, up a small
river which puts into a large bay on the south side of
the Columbia, that will answer very well for winter
quarters, as game is very plenty, which is the main
object with us; and we intend to move there as soon
as circumstances will admit. There is more wet
weather on this coast, than I ever knew in any other
place; during a month we have had but 3 fair days;
and there is no prospect of a change.

Friday 6th. We had another wet morning, and
were not able to set out. At noon it rained very hard,
and the tide flowed so high, that in some part of our
camp the water was a foot deep: we had therefore
to remove to higher ground. In the afternoon it still
continued to rain hard.

Saturday 7th. About 12 last night the rain ceased
and we had a fine clear morning. We put our canoes
into the water, loaded them, and started for our
intended wintering place. We coasted down the
south side about a mile, and then met with the six
men, who had gone for meat. They had brought 4
of the skins but no meat, the distance being great and
the weather very bad. The swells being too high
here to land we went two miles further and took the
men in. We then proceeded round the bay until we
came to the mouth of a river about 100 yards broad,
which we went up about 2 miles to the place fixed
upon for winter quarters, unloaded our canoes, and
carried our baggage about 200 yards to a spring,
where we encamped.

Sunday 8th. We had a fine fair morning with some
white frost. Capt. Clarke with 5 men set out to go
to the ocean, and myself with 11 more to bring in
the meat, which the two men left by Captain Lewis
were taking care of. We went up the small river
in our canoes about two miles, then up a branch of
it on the west side two miles, then by land about two
miles more, where we found the men and the meat,
of which we all carried two large loads to our canoes,
and proceeded down to camp. In the evening it began
to rain again. The country towards the south
is mountainous at some distance off; and there is
some snow on the mountains. Near our camp,
the country is closely timbered with spruce-pine, the
soil rich, but not deep; and there are numerous
springs of running water.

Monday 9th. The morning was cloudy and wet. A
serjeant and 8 men were sent to bring in the remainder
of the meat we left yesterday; some were employed
in making our camp comfortable, and others
in clearing a place for huts and a small fort. In the
evening some of the natives came to our camp, the
first we have seen for some days. It continued cloudy
and wet all day.

Tuesday 10th. We had another wet cloudy morning;
and all hands were employed at work notwithstanding
the rain. About 2 o'clock Capt. Clarke and
3 of his party returned to camp; the other two remained
out to hunt. They found the ocean to be
about 7 miles from our camp; for 4 miles the land
high and closely timbered: the remainder prairie
cut with some streams of water. They killed an elk
and saw about 50 in one gang. They also saw three
lodges of Indians on the seashore. The natives which
were at our camp, went away this morning after receiving
some presents. In the evening we laid the
foundation of our huts.

Wednesday 11th. This day was also cloudy and
wet; but we continued at our hut-building.

Thursday 12th. This morning was cloudy without
rain. In the forenoon we finished 3 rooms of our
cabins, all but the covering; which I expect will be
a difficult part of the business, as we have not yet
found any timber which splits well; two men went
out to make some boards, if possible, for our roofs.
About 3 o'clock in the afternoon a number of the natives
from the seashore came to our camp, and remained
all night. Some rain fell in the evening.

Friday 13th. We had a cloudy, but fine morning;
and all hands were engaged at work. The party of
Indians who came yesterday went away, and another
party came about the middle of the day. Two hunters
came in, and had killed 18 elk, not more than 4
miles distant. The day continued cloudy and some
rain fell in the evening.

Saturday 14th. The two hunters that had killed the
elk, went back with two other men to take care of the
meat. In the course of the day a good deal of rain
fell; the weather here still continues warm, and
there has been no freezing except a little white frost.
In the afternoon the savages all went away. We completed
the building of our huts, 7 in number, all but
the covering, which I now find will not be so difficult
as I expected; as we have found a kind of timber
in plenty, which splits freely and makes the finest
puncheons I have ever seen. They can be split 10
feet long and 2 broad, not more than an inch and an
half thick.

Sunday 15th. The morning was cloudy. Captain
Clarke with 16 of the party started to bring in the
meat the 4 men were taking care of; myself and 2
others were employed in fixing and finishing the
quarters of the Commanding Officers, and 2 more
preparing puncheons for covering the huts. Some
light showers fell during the day; and at night 3 Indians

came to our camp, and brought us two large
salmon.

Monday 16th. This was a wet morning with high
wind. About 8 Capt. Clarke and 15 men came in
loaded with meat; they left a canoe with 7 men to
bring in the remainder. They had a very bad night,
as the weather was stormy and a great deal of rain
fell. Notwithstanding this, a serjeant and four men,
who had got lost, lay out all night without fire. As
soon as they arrived all hands were set to carrying up
the meat, and putting it in a house we had prepared
for the purpose. The whole of the day was stormy
and wet.

Tuesday 17th. This was another cloudy day, with
some light showers of rain and hail. About 11
o'clock the 7 men came with the canoe and the remainder
of the meat. We still continued working
at our huts.

Wednesday 18th. Snow fell last night about an
inch deep, and the morning was stormy. In the
middle of the day the weather became clear, and we
had a fine afternoon.

Thursday 19th. This was a fine clear cool morning,
and we expected to have some fair pleasant
weather, but at noon it became cloudy again and began
to rain.

Friday 20th. The morning was cloudy and wet.
We collected all the puncheons or slabs we had made,
and some which we got from some Indian huts up the
bay, but found we had not enough to cover all our
huts. About 10 o'clock the weather became clear;
but before night it rained as fast as before. From this
day to the 25th we had occasionally rain and high
winds, but the weather still continued warm. On the
evening of the 24th we got all our huts covered and
daubed.

Wednesday 25th. Was another cloudy wet day.
This morning we left our camp and moved into our

huts. At daybreak all the men paraded and fired a
round of small arms, wishing the Commanding Officers
a merry Christmas. In the course of the day
Capt. Lewis and Capt. Clarke collected what tobacco
remained and divided if among those who used tobacco
as a Christmas-gift; to the others they gave
handkerchiefs in lieu of it. We had no spirituous
liquors to elevate our spirits this Christmas; but of
this we had but little need, as we were all in very
good health. Our living is not very good; meat is
plenty, but of an ordinary quality, as the elk are poor
in this part of the country. We have no kind of
provisions but meat, and we are without salt to season
that.

The 26th, 27th and 28th, were cloudy with rain.
We found our huts smoked; there being no chimnies
in them except in the officers' rooms. The men
were therefore employed, except some hunters who
went out, in making chimnies to the huts. In the
evening of the 27th we were informed that a large
fish, answering to the description of a whale, was
driven upon shore. In the forenoon of the 28th six
men started for the seashore to make salt, as we have
none in the fort. Two hunters returned, having
killed a deer, and three went out to hunt.

Sunday 29th. This was a cloudy morning; but a
fair day succeeded; and three more hunters went out.
In the afternoon several of the Chin-ook nation came
to our fort with Wapto roots and dried salmon to
trade. We purchased some from them and found the
supply seasonable as our meat on hand is somewhat
spoiled. The men about the fort are engaged in
finishing our small fortification.

Monday 30th. Heavy showers of rain fell last
night, but the morning was fair, and we had some
sunshine, which happens very seldom; light showers
of rain fell during the day. About 2 o'clock the 3
hunters that first went out came in; and had killed

four elk. Seven men went out immediately and
brought them into the fort safe, which was a pleasing
sight, the meat we had on hand being spoiled. This
evening we completely finished our fortification.

Tuesday 31st. Another cloudy morning. Some
more of the natives came to trade with Wapto roots
and salmon: the first party had gone off in the
morning.