University of Virginia Library

Search this document 
A journal of the voyages and travels of a corps of discovery, under the command of Capt. Lewis and Capt. Clarke, of the Army of the United States, from the mouth of the river Missouri through the interior parts of North America to the Pacific Ocean, during the years 1804, 1805 and 1806.

Containing an authentic relation of the most interesting transactions during the expedition, a description of the country, and an account of its inhabitants, soil, climate, curiosities and vegetable and animal productions.
  
  
  
  
PREFACE
  

 I. 
 II. 
 III. 
 IV. 
 V. 
 VI. 
 VII. 
 VIII. 
 IX. 
 X. 
 XI. 
 XII. 
 XIII. 
 XIV. 
 XV. 
 XVI. 
 XVII. 
 XVIII. 
 XIX. 
 XX. 
 XXI. 
 XXII. 
 XXIII. 
 XXIV. 
 XXV. 



No Page Number

PREFACE

BY THE PUBLISHER OF THE FIRST EDITION.

OF the various publications which unite amusement
and information, few can be justly held in
higher estimation than the Journals and Narratives
of Travellers and Voyagers: and in our own highly
favoured country, the diffusion of general knowledge,
the enterprizing spirit of the people, their commercial
pursuits and habits of emigration, render such
works particularly valuable and interesting; while
the vigorous and unrestrained mind of the free American,
by amplifying and embellishing the scenes
presented to his view, enjoys the choicest luxuries
of the entertainment they are calculated to afford.
If it is conceded that discoveries made in North
America are more important to the people of the
United States than those made elsewhere, it will not
be difficult to shew that none could have been made
of so much importance to them in any part of the
world as in the large tracts of country through which
the late expedition, under the command of Captain
Lewis and Captain Clarke, passed. For if we take a
view of the different discoveries and settlements previously
made, we will find that those tracts through
which the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and their
branches flow, commonly called unknown regions,
were the only parts remaining unexplored, which
could be considered valuable.


iv

Page iv

The first discovery of the Western World by
Europeans, of which we have any authentic accounts,
being near the southern extremity of North-America,
drew, as might be expected, their attention
to that quarter; and the rage which this grand
discovery excited for other enterprizes of the same
nature; the avidity, with which avarice was stimulated
to seize the precious metals, known to exist in
those parts; the means held out for gratifying ambition;
and the prospects of a lucrative commerce,
with many other objects and considerations tended
largely to extend them; while the diminution of the
Northern Continent to a narrow isthmus, and its
large gulphs, bays and rivers, furnished and facilitated
the means of exploring it. The spirit of enterprize,
however, was not confined to the southern
extremity; but extending itself to the climates congenial
with those which it had left, and connecting
with its researches the planting of colonies, important
discoveries were made along the Atlantic coast.
In the mean time the project of discovering a northwest
passage to the East Indies led the boldest naval
commanders of Europe through the inland seas, bays
and straights of the north; and at length produced
surveys of the shores of the Pacific. To these discoveries,
and those occasionally made during the settlement
of the country within the limits of the United
States, and in Canada, the Hudson's Bay company,
though not famed for enterprize, added something
to the stock of general information, and by
their establishments aided others in their enterprizes.
Mr. Hearne under the direction of this company, in
an expedition, which lasted from the 7th of December
1770 to the 30th of June 1772, proceeded from
Prince of Wales's Fort, on the Churchill river in
latitude 58d. 47 1-2m. north, and longitude 94d.
711-2m. west of Greenwich, or 19d. west of Philadelphia,
to the mouth of the Coppermine river,



No Page Number
which according to some accounts is in latitude 72d.
north and longitude 119d. west from Greenwich, or
44d. west of Philadelphia; but is laid down by others
to be in latitude about 69d. north, and longitude
112d. west from Greenwich or 37d. west from Philadelphia.
Whatever the confined views and contracted
policy of the Hudson's Bay Company may,
however, have ommitted in the way of discovery, the
enterprize and perseverance of the Canadian traders,
sometime since united under the name of the North
West Company, have amply supplied. Prior to the
year 1789 they had extended their discoveries and
establishments along the numerous lakes and rivers
situated north of that high tract of country which
divides the Mississippi and Missouri waters from
those which run towards the north and east, to within
a short distance of the Rocky Mountains. In the
summer of this year Mr. M'Kenzie made a voyage
from Fort Chepewyan on the lake of the Hills in latitude
58d. 40m. north, and longitude 110d. 30m.
west from Greenwich or 35d. 22m. west from Philadelphia,
by the way of the Slave river, Slave lake,
and a river by which this lake discharges its waters
(since called M'Kenzie's river) to the mouth of that
river, where it falls into the North sea, in latitude
69d. 14m. north and longitude 135d. west from
Greenwich, or 59d. 52m. west from Philadelphia.
He again in the year 1793 penetrated from an establishment
on the Peace river in latitude 56d. 9m.
north, and longitude 117d. 35m. west from Greenwich,
or 41d. 27m. west from Philadelphia, to the
Pacific ocean in latitude 52d. 54m. north, and longitude
128d. 2m. west from Greenwich, or 52d. 54m.
west from Philadelphia.

By the discoveries alluded to, and those occasionally
made during the rapid settlement of the country
and the progress of enterprize, the principal divisions
of this Northern Continent have been explored and become


vi

Page vi
known. The line separating these from the
part which remained unexplored and unknown, may
be considered as commencing at the Pacific ocean in
latitude about 38d north, and running along the high
lands and mountains between the waters which fall
into the gulphs of California and Mexico and those
which fall into the Missouri river, and continuing in
that direction to the Mississippi; thence up that river
to the source of its highest north western branch:
thence along the high tract of country which divides
the waters of the Missouri from those which fall into
Hudson's Bay and the North sea: from whence it
will continue across the Rocky Mountains to the
Pacific ocean in latitude about 52d. north. To the
south of this general division line, the known countries
will be Old and New Mexico and a part of
Louisiana; to the southeast, West and East Florida;
to the east, the United States; to the northeast, Canada,
the Labrador country, part of New South Wales
and of other countries round Hudson's Bay and to
the north, part of New South Wales, New North
Wales, the Athabasca and other countries containing
the establishments of the Hudson's Bay and North
West Companies, and those explored by Hearne
and M'Kenzie: leaving unknown and unexplored
(except so far as the surveys made by navigators
of the coast of the Pacific, and the imperfect accounts
of traders who have ascended the Missouri
have furnished information) all that large intermediate
tract, containing in breadth about 1000 miles;
and in length in a direct line, about 1800 miles, and
by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers
nearly twice that distance. This tract from its situation
may be supposed to contain the chief part of
those lands in the great western part of the continent
of North America fit for tillage: and this circumstance
will therefore in a special manner claim
the attention of an agricultural people, render more

vii

Page vii
interesting a description of them, and attach additional
value to the history of the country. It will not
be forgotten that an immense sum of treasure has
been expended in the purchase of this country, and
that it is now considered as belonging to the United
States. Here at no distant period settlements may
be formed; and in a much shorter term than has
elapsed since the first were made in America, from
which hath arisen a great, powerful and independant
nation, the posterity of the present inhabitants of the
Union may unfurl the standard of independence on
the plains of the Missouri and Columbia.

With respect to the accuracy of the relations given
in the following pages, it may be necessary to inform
those readers not acquainted with the fact, that the
principal object in sending out the expedition was to
gain some correct account of the country: and that
this might be done more effectually, and the information
collected, preserved with more certainty, it
was enjoined upon the several persons belonging to
the corps, who were considered capable, to keep
journals, and every necessary information and assistance
was given them for that purpose: these journals
were also from time to time compared, corrected, and
any blanks, which had been left, filled up, and unavoidable
omissions supplied. By thus multiplying
the journals, revising and correcting them, the chances
of securing to the country a true account of
the progress of the expedition and of the discoveries
which should be made, especially should the
party be attacked and defeated by the savages or meet
with any other disasters in their hazardous enterprize,
were also multiplied.

The following is an extract of a certificate delivered
by Captain Lewis to Mr. Gass, dated St. Louis,
10th Oct. 1806.

"As a tribute justly due to the merits of the said
"Patrick Gass, I with cheerfulness declare, that the


viii

Page viii
"ample support, which he gave me, under every
"difficulty; the manly firmness, which he evinced
"on every necessary occasion; and the fortitude with
"which he bore the fatigues and painful sufferings
"incident to that long voyage, intitles him to my
"highest confidence and sincere thanks, while it
"eminently recommends him to the consideration
"and respect of his fellow citizens."

In determining the form in which the work should
appear, the publisher had some difficulty. Two plans
presented themselves. The one was to preserve the
form of a daily journal (in which the original had
been kept) and give a plain description of the country
and a simple relation of occurrences equally intelligible
to all readers; leaving to every person an
opportunity of embellishing the scenes presented to
him in his own way. The other plan was to more
fully digest the subject, make the narrative more
general, and assuming less of the journal form and
style, describe and clothe the principal parts of it
as his fancy might suggest. However far the latter
might have been proper, had a foreign country
been the subject, and the principal object of the
publication, mere amusement, many objections occurred
to it in the present case; and rendered the
former the most eligible, especially as by it the
climate and face of the country will be more satisfactorily
described. And Mr. Gass having declared
that the beauties and deformities of its grandest
scenes were equally beyond the power of description,
no attempts have been made either by him or the
publisher to give adequate representations of them.

The publisher hopes that the curiosity of the
reader will be in some degree gratified; that the
information furnished will not be uninteresting; and
that some aid will be furnished those who wish to
acquire a Geographical knowledge of their country.