University of Virginia Library

CHAP. XXIV.

Sunday 27th. In a fine clear pleasant morning,
myself and one of the men crossed the river with the
horses, in order to go by land to the mouth of Maria's
river: the rest of the party here are to go by water.
We proceeded on through the plains about twenty
miles, and in our way saw a great many buffaloe.
We then struck Tansy or Rose river, which we kept
down about ten miles and encamped. The land along
this river is handsomely covered with Cotton wood
timber and there is an abundance of game of different
kinds. In our way we killed a buffaloe and a
goat. The wolves in packs occasionally hunt these
goats, which are too swift to be run down and taken
by a single wolf. The wolves having fixed upon
their intended prey and taken their stations, a part
of the pack commence the chase, and running it in a
circle, are at certain intervals relieved by others. In
this manner they are able to run a goat down. At
the falls where the wolves are plenty, I had an opportunity
of seeing one of these hunts.

Monday 28th. The morning was fine and pleasant,
and at an early hour we proceeded down the river. In
our way we killed six goats or antelopes and seven
buffaloe; and about one o'clock came to the point at
the mouth of Maria's river, where we met with the
party who had come down from the falls by water,
and who had just arrived; and also unexpectedly with
Captain Lewis and the three men who had gone with
him. They had joined the party descending the
river this forenoon, after riding one hundred and
twenty miles since yesterday morning, when
they had a skirmish with a party of the Prairie

[ILLUSTRATION]

Captain Lewis shooting an Indian.

Page.245.

Grossventres, or Bigbellied Indians who inhabit
the plains up Maria's river; of which they
gave the following account. On the evening of the
26th Captain Lewis and his party met with eight of
those Indians, who seemed very friendly and gave
them two robes. In return Captain Lewis gave one
of them, who was a chief, a medal: and they all continued
together during the night; but after break
of day the next morning, the Indians snatched up
three of our men's guns and ran off with them. One
Indian had the guns of two men, who pursued and
caught him, and one of them killed him with his
knife; and they got back the guns. Another had
Captain Lewis's gun, but immediately gave it up.
The party then went to catch their horses, and found
the Indians driving them off; when Captain Lewis
shot one of them, and gave him a mortal wound;
who notwithstanding returned the fire, but without
hurting the Captain. So our men got all their own
horses, but one, and a number of those belonging to
the Indians, as they ran off in confusion and left every
thing they had. Our men then saddled their horses,
and made towards the Missouri as fast as possible;
after Captain Lewis had satisfied himself with respect
to the geography of the country up Maria's
river.

We this day took the articles out of the place of
deposit, and examined the large red periogue we left
here, and found it too rotten to take down the river.
We therefore took what nails out of it we could, left
our horses on the plains and proceeded down the
river. About the time we started, a heavy gust of
rain and hail accompanied with thunder and lightning
came on and lasted about an hour, after which
we had a cloudy wet afternoon, and in the evening we
encamped about twenty five miles below the forks.

Tuesday 29th. Early in a cloudy morning we commenced
our voyage from the mouth of Maria's river;

and the current of the Missouri being very swift, we
went down rapidly. At noon we saw some Ibex or
Bighorns at the entrance of a range of high rough
hills; and we halted and killed two of them. Having
dined we proceeded on again, and in our way, during
the afternoon, killed seven more of these mountain
sheep. There are few other animals in this range
of high country. In the evening we encamped
opposite the mouth of Slaughter river, and Captain
Lewis had four of these animals skeletonized, to take
with him to the seat of Government of the United
States. A considerable quantity of rain fell in the
course of the day.

Wednesday 30th. We embarked early in a cloudy
morning with some rain. In our way through this
high range of mountains, we killed four more of the
large horned animals, two buffaloe, two beaver and a
bear.

The water of the river is very thick and muddy,
on account of the late falls of rain, which wash those
clay hills very much. We went down the river upwards
of 70 miles to day, and encamped on a prairie
island. Heavy rain fell at intervals during the day.

Thursday 31st. We set out early, though it continued
at intervals to rain hard; about 10 o'clock we
saw a great gang of elk on a small island, where we
halted and in a short time killed fifteen of them. We
took the skins and the best parts of the meat, and proceeded.
At noon we halted to dine, and had then a
very heavy shower of rain. We also killed another
of the large horned animals or mountain sheep.—
We remained here about an hour, then proceeded on,
and will soon be clear of this range of high rough
country. In our way this afternoon, we killed two
mule and twelve other deer, and two beaver. Though
the afternoon was wet and disagreeable, we came 70
miles to day.

Friday 1st Aug. 1806. We embarked early in a

wet and disagreeable morning, and in a short time
saw a large brown or grizly bear swimming in the
river, which we killed, and took on board; pased
the mouth of Muscle shoal river; and at noon halted
to dine at some old Indian lodges. Captain Lewis
being afraid, from the dampness of the weather, that
the skins he had procured of these big-horned animals
would spoil, thought it adviseable to stay here
this afternoon and dry them by a fire in these old
lodges: and some of the men went out to hunt. About
an hour after we landed here, a large bear came
so close to our camp, that one of the men shot and
killed it from our fire. In the evening our hunters
came in and had killed several deer. The afternoon
was cloudy with some rain; and having made a fire
and put the skins to dry with two men to attend
them, made our arrangements for the night.

Saturday 2nd. This was a fine clear morning, and
Captain Lewis thought it best to stay here to-day also
and dry all our baggage, as it was become damp and
wet. Two hunters were sent on in a canoe to hunt;
and in the course of the day we got every thing dry
and ready to set out the next morning.

Sunday 3rd. We had a fine morning, and at 6
o'clock got under way and proceeded on. Having
gone ten miles we came up with the hunters who
had killed twenty-four deer. We went on very rapidly
and saw great gangs of elk feeding on the shores,
but few buffaloe. At sunset we encamped having
gone 73 miles.

Monday 4th. This was another pleasant day and we
proceeded on early. One of the small canoes with
two hunters did not come up last night. We left
another small canoe with some hunters behind and
proceeded on. We went very rapidly, and in our
way killed a buffaloe, an elk and some deer. At five
o'clock we passed the mouth of Milk river, which
was very high and the current strong. Having proceeded
88 miles we encamped for the night.

Tuesday 5th. Last night was cloudy and thunder
was heard at a distance. About midnight the small
canoe we left yesterday came floating down with the
current, and would have passed us if our centinel had
not hailed it: the hunters in it killed a bear and two
deer. This morning was also cloudy, and we halted
here till noon in expectation that the other canoe
would come down; but there was then no appearance
of it; and we began to suspect it had passed in the
night. The forenoon had become clear and pleasant,
and at noon we got under way. As we went on we
killed a very fat buffaloe and some deer; and two
hunters who went on ahead in the morning killed two
very large brown bears. At sunset we encamped
and at dark a violent gust of wind and rain came on
with thunder and lightning, which lasted about an
hour; after which we had a fine clear night.

Wednesday 6th. We embarked early, and had a
fine morning, but high wind. At 12 o'clock the
wind blew so violent that it became dangerous to go
on, and we halted; and some of the men went out
and shot a large buck, but not dead and he got into
the river; when two of them pursued in a canoe and
caught him. Having remained here three hours,
we again went on until night and encamped. We
have yet seen nothing of the two hunters who had
been left behind in the small canoe.

Thursday 7th. The morning was cloudy and we
set out early, after a very heavy shower of rain which
fell before day light. We proceeded on very well,
and about 4 o'clock arrived at the mouth of the
Yellow Stone river. We found that Captain Clarke
had been encamped on the point some time ago, and
had left it. We discovered nothing to inform us
where he was gone, except a few words written or
traced in the sand, which were "W. C. a few miles
further down on the right hand side." Captain Lewis
having left a few lines for the two men in the canoe,

to inform them, if they are still behind, where we
were gone, we continued our voyage. At night we
encamped after coming above 100 miles; and though
dark, killed a fat buffaloe at the place of our encampment.

Friday 8th. We had a fine clear cool morning
with some white frost; proceeded on early and in a
short time past one of Captain Clarke's camps. At
nine o'clock we halted to repair the periogue, and to
dress some skins to make ourselves clothing. The
musquetoes are more troublesome here than at any
place since we left the falls of the Missouri. A party
of men went out to hunt and killed some elk and
deer; the rest were employed in dressing deer and
cabre skins.

Saturday 9th. This was another fine day; and
most of the men were employed as yesterday; and
in making small oars for our canoes. Two of them
went over the river and killed an elk and a deer.

Sunday 10th. We had a fine morning and were
employed in repairing the periogue and dressing
skins, until 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when we got
the periogue completed, loaded our craft, and at four
o'clock proceeded on to the mouth of White-earth
river, and encamped opposite it on the same bottom,
where we encamped on the 21st April 1805. In the
afternoon some drops of rain fell; and the musquitoes
here were very bad indeed.

Monday 11th. The morning was pleasant; and
we set out early; passed Captain Clarke's encampment
of the night of the 8th instant, and proceeded
on to the burnt bluffs, where we saw a gang of elk
feeding. The canoes were then sent to shore with
a party of men to endeavour to kill some of them;
and we proceeded on with the periogue. In about
half a mile further we saw another gang; when we
halted and Captain Lewis and one of the men went
out after them. In a short time Captain Lewis returned

wounded and very much alarmed; and ordered
us to our arms, supposing he had been shot at by
Indians. Having prepared for an attack, I went out
with three men to reconnoitre and examine the bushes,
which are very thick at this place, and could see
no Indians; but after some time met with the man
who went out with Captain Lewis, and found on inquiry
that he had shot him by accident through the
hips, and without knowing it pursued the game.
Having made this discovery we returned to the periogue;
examined and dressed Captain Lewis's wound;
and found the ball, which had lodged in his overalls.
The canoes having come down, we proceeded on,
after dressing two elk that had been killed at this
place, and passed an encampment which Captain
Clarke had left in the morning. We found a note
here informing us, that the Indians had stolen all the
horses which he had sent with a serjeant and party,
from Yellow Stone river, and that the serjeant with
the party came down in skin canoes and met him at
this place. We then proceeded on some distance
and encamped.

Tuesday 12th. The morning was pleasant and we
proceeded on. Captain Lewis is in good spirits; but
his wound stiff and sore. Having gone about nine
miles we met with two men on the river trapping and
hunting. Captain Lewis gave them some ammunition,
and directions with respect to the river above.
They informed us that Captain Clarke and party had
passed them yesterday at noon. We proceeded on
and at 10 o'clock overtook Captain Clarke and his
party, all in good health. The two men with the
small canoe, who had been sometime absent, came
down and joined us at the place where we met with
the two strangers: and now, (thanks to God) we are
all together again in good health, except Capt. Lewis,
and his wound is not dangerous.

After the Corps were separated among the mountains,

as before mentioned. Captain Clarke's party
proceeded on to the Canos deposit, near the head of
the main branch of the Missouri (called Jefferson's
river) and having descended with the canoes to the
mouth of the branch, which they called Gallatin, Captain
Clarke with ten men left those, who were to take
down the canoes to the falls; travelled three days up
Gall tin's river towards the south, when they crossed
a ridge and came upon the waters of the Jaune or
Yellow-stone river. Having gone about 100 miles
down this river by land they made two canoes, and
Captain Clarke having sent off a sergeant and three
men with the horses to the Mandan villages, went
down himself with six other men by water. On the
second day after the sergeant and his party had started
for the Mandan villages, the Indians stole the whole
of the horses, and the party were obliged to descend
the river in skin canoes. Captain Clarke's party in
their rout had found game plenty of different kinds,
buffaloe, elk, deer, beaver, otter and some other animals.
They also found the Yellow-Stone river a
pleasant and navigable stream, with a rich soil along
it; but timber scarce.

We here took the men on board, and left the buffaloe
canoes. At night we encamped on a sand
beach, as the musketoes are not so bad there as in
the woods.

Wednesday 13th. After a stormy night of wind and
rain we set out early in a fine morning; about nine
o'clock passed the Little Missouri and went on very
well during the whole of the day. In the evening
those in some of the small canoes, which were ahead,
saw Indians, who fied before they could speak to
them. At night we encamped opposite an old wintering
village of the Grossventres, which had been
deserted some time ago.

Thursday 14th. The morning of this day was pleasant,
and we embarked early. In a short time we

arrived near to our old friends the Grossventres and
Mandans; and fixed our encampment in a central
position, so as to be most convenient to the different
villages. The inhabitants of all the villages appeared
very glad to see us, and sent us presents of
corn, beans and squashes.

Friday 15th. We had a fine clear pleasant morning,
and continued here all day, to ascertain whether
any of the chiefs would go down with us or not.—
They had to hold councils among themselves, and we
had to wait for their answers. The two hunters we
left up the river came down, staid with us here, and
got one of our party to join in partnership with them,
and to return up the rivers Missouri and Jaune to
hunt.

Saturday 16th. There was a fine cool day; and we
yet remained here, waiting an answer from the natives.
Some of these Indians are very kind and obliging;
furnishing us with corn, beans and squashes;
but there are others very troublesome, and steal
whenever they have an opportunity. Yesterday and
to-day, they stole several knives and spoons; and
three powder horns, and too pouches, filled with
ammunition.

In the afternoon the chief, called the Big-White
concluded to go down with us, and we agreed to stay
until 12 o'clock to-morrow; that he might have an
opportunity to get ready for his voyage and mission.
The Commanding Officers gave discharges to the
man who agreed to return with the hunters up the
river, and the interpreter; who intends settling
among these Indians, and to whom they gave the
blacksmith's tools supposing they might be useful
to the nation. They also gave a small piece of ordnance
to the Grossventers, which they appeared very
fond of.

Sunday 17th. There were some flying clouds this
morning, and the weather was cold for the season.

The two strange hunters, with the man who had received
his discharge and was to go up the river with
them, went on early. We lashed our small canoes
together, two and two, as we expect they will be
more steady this way and carry larger loads. At
noon we dropped down to the village of the Big-White;
and he, his wife and a child, with Geesem the
interpreter for the Big-White, his wife and two children
embarked in two of our canoes to go to the
United States. We proceeded on at 2 o'clock; the
wind was high, and river rough; and in the evening
we encamped having descended about twenty miles.

Monday 18th. We set out early in a cloudy morning,
and the wind high. At 10 o'clock we killed two
deer, when we halted for an hour and cooked some
venison. In the evening we encamped, and some of
the men went out and killed five or six more deer.

Tuesday 19th. This was a cloudy windy morning;
and the water so rough, that our small canoes could
not safely ride the waves: so we remained here and
several of the men went out to hunt. We do not go
on so rapidly as we did higher up the river: but
having lashed our small canoes together, we go on
very safe and can make fifty or sixty miles a day.
Captain Lewis is getting much better and we are all
in good spirits. At 8 o'clock in the afternoon the
wind ceased, and we proceeded on, and met with our
hunters on the bank, who had killed six elk and
eleven deer. We took the meat on board, proceeded
on, and encamped on a sand-beach.

Wednesday 20th. We embarked early after a heavy
gust of wind and rain, and proceeded on very well.
The forenoon was cloudy, without rain; and in the
afternoon the weather became clear and pleasant.
We went about seventy miles, and encamped; where
we found the musketoes very troublesome.

Thursday 21st. We proceeded on early and had a
fine morning. At 10 o'clock we arrived at the first

village of the Rickarees, and halted. In our way
here we met three Frenchmen in a canoe; one of
them a young man, who formerly belonged to the
North West Company of traders, wished to go with
us to the United States; which our Commanding
Officers-consented to and he was taken on board one
of our canoes. When we halted and landed at the
villages, the natives generally assembled, and Captain
Clarke held a council with them; when they declared
they would live in peace with all nations; but
that their chiefs and warriors would not go to the
United States at present, as they had sent one chief
already, and he had not returned. There are also a
great many of the Chien, or Dog nation encamped
here, in large handsome leather lodges; and who
have come to trade with the Rickarees for corn and
beans, for which they give in exchange buffaloe meat
and robes. They are a very silly superstitious people.
Captain Clarke gave one of their chiefs a medal,
which he gave back with a buffaloe robe, and said he
was afraid of white people, and did not like to take
any thing from them; but after some persuasion he
accepted the medal, and we left them.[1] Here a
Frenchman joined us to go to St. Louis, who was in
the service of the Commanding Officers; and we
dropped down to the village on an island, and encamped
for the night.