University of Virginia Library

CHAP. XIII.

Sunday 15th. Having breakfasted on colt, we
moved on down the river 6 miles, and again took the
mountains. In going up, one of the horses fell, and
required 8 or 10 men to assist him in getting up
again. We continued our march to 2 o'clock when
we halted at a spring and dined on portable soup and
a handful of parched corn. We then proceeded on
our journey over the mountains to a high point, where,
it being dark, we were obliged to encamp. There was
here no water; but a bank of snow answered as a
substitute; and we supped upon soup.

Monday 16th. Last night about 12 o'clock it began
to snow. We renewed our march early, though the
morning was very disagreeable, and proceeded over
the most terrible mountains I ever beheld. It continued
snowing until 3 o'clock P. M. when we halted,
took some more soup, and went on till we came to a
small stream where we encamped for the night.
Here we killed another colt and supped on it. The
show fell so thick, and the day was so dark, that a
person could not see to a distance of 200 yards. In
the night and during the day the snow fell about 10
inches deep.

Tuesday 17th. Our horses scattered so much last
night, that they were not collected until noon, at
which time we began our march again. It was a
fine day with warm sunshine, which melted the snow
very fast on the south sides of the hills, and made
the travelling very fatiguing and uncomfortable. We
continued over high desert mountains, where our
hunters could find no game, nor signs of any except
a bear's tract which they observed to day.—

At dark we halted at a spring on the top of a mountain;
killed another colt, and encamped there all
night.

Wednesday 18th. This was a clear cold frosty
morning. All our horses except one were collected
early: Six hunters went on ahead; one man to look
for the horse; and all the rest of us proceeded on our
journey over the mountains, which are very high and
rough. About 12 we passed a part where the snow
was off, and no appearance that much had lately fallen.
At 3 we came to snow again, and halted to take
some soup, which we made with snow water, as no
other could be found. Here the man, who had been
sent for the horse came up, but had not found him.
Except on the sides of hills where it has fallen, the
country is closely timbered with pitch and spruce
pine, and what some call balsam-fir. We can see
no prospect of getting off these desert mountains
yet, except the appearance of a deep cove on each
side of the ridge we are passing along. We remained
here an hour and an half, and then proceeded
on down a steep mountain, and encamped after
travelling 18 miles. We had great difficulty in
getting water, being obliged to go half a mile for it
down a very steep precipice.

Thursday 19th. Our hunters did not join us last
night, which was disagreeably cold. About 8 this
morning we set out, and proceeded on in our way
over the mountains; the sun shining warm and
pleasant. We travelled a west course, and about
12 o'clock halted at a spring to take a little more
soup. The snow is chiefly gone except on the north
points of the high mountains. At 2 P. M. we again
went on, and descended a steep mountain into a cove
on our left hand, where there is a large creek, which
here runs towards the east. The hills on each side,
along which the trail or path passes, are very steep.
One of our horses fell down the precipice about 100

feet, and was not killed, nor much hurt: the reason
was, that there is no bottom below, and the precipice,
the only bank, which the creek has; therefore the
horse pitched into the water, without meeting with
any intervening object, which could materially injure
him. We made 17 miles this day and encamped on
a small branch of the creek. Having heard nothing
from our hunters, we again supped upon some of
our portable soup. The men are becoming lean and
debilitated, on account of the scarcity and poor quality
of the provisions on which we subsist: our
horses' feet are also becoming very sore. We have
however, some hopes of getting soon out of this horrible
mountainous desert, as we have discovered the
appearance of a valley or level part of the country
about 40 miles ahead. When this discovery was
made there was as much joy and rejoicing among
the corps, as happens among passengers at sea, who
have experienced a dangerous and protracted voyage,
when they first discover land on the long looked for
coast.

Friday 20th. It was late before our horses were
collected, but the day was fine; and at 9 o'clock we
continued our march. Having proceeded about a
mile, we came to a small glade, where our hunters
had found a horse, and had killed, dressed and hung
him up. Capt. Clarke, who had gone forward with
the hunters, left a note informing us that he and
they intended to go on to the valley or level country
ahead, as there was no chance of killing any
game in these desert mountains. We loaded the
meat and proceeded along the mountains. At noon
we stopped and dined, on our horse flesh: here we
discovered that a horse, having Capt. Lewis's clothes
and baggage on him, had got into the bushes while
we were loading the meat, and was left behind. One
of the men therefore was sent back, but returned
without finding him. Two other men with a horse

were then sent back, and we continued our march
along the ridge, where there are rocks, that appear
to be well calculated for making millstones; and
some beautiful tall cedars among the spruce pine.
Night came on before we got-off this ridge, and we
had much difficulty in finding water. The soil on
the western side of the mountains appears much better
than on the east; and not so rocky. We can see
the valley ahead, but a great way off.

Saturday 21st. The morning was pleasant; but it
was late before we got our horses collected. About
10 o'clock we were ready to start; and passed along
the ridge with a great deal of difficulty and fatigue,
our march being much impeded by the fallen timber.
A great portion of the timber through which we
passed along this ridge is dead, and a considerable
part fallen; and our horses are weak and much jaded.
One of them get into a small swamp, and wet a bale
of merchandize. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon
we got down the mountain to a creek, which runs
nearly southwest. This course we suppose is a very
good one for us. We went down this creek about a
mile, and encamped on it for the night in a small rich
bottom. Here we killed a duck and two or three
pheasants; and supped upon them and the last of
our horse meat. We also killed a wolf and eat it.
The hunters did not join us this evening, nor the two
men who went to look for the horse.

Sunday 22nd. This was a fine warm day. About
9 o'clock we continued our rout over a ridge about a
west course, upon the top of which there is a handsome
small prairie: where we met one of our hunters
with a supply of roots, berries and some fish,
which he procured from another band of the Flathead
nation of Indians. Captain Clarke and the hunters
had arrived on the 20th at the encampment or lodges
of these Indians which are in a beautiful prairie,
about 8 or 9 miles from this place. The roots they

use are made into a kind of bread; which is good and
nourishing, and tastes like that sometimes made of
pumpkins. We remained here about an hour and
then proceeded on again, down the ridge along a very
rough way: and in the evening arrived in a fine large
valley, clear of these dismal and horrible mountains.
Here our two men overtook us; who had found the
lost horse and clothing, but on their way to us lost
both the horses. The Indians belonging to this
band, received us kindly, appeared pleased to see us,
and gave us such provisions as they had. We were
at a loss for an interpreter, none of our interpreters
being able to understand them. Capt. Clarke met
us here: he had been over at the river, and found
the distance 18 miles and a good road from this place.
He thinks we will be able to take the water again at
the place he had been at; and where he left 5 hunters,
as there was some game about the river in that quarter.

Monday 23rd. The morning was warm and pleasant.
We staid here some time to procure provisions
from the natives, for which we gave them in
exchange a number of small articles. The provisions
which we got consisted of roots, bread and fish.
Their bread is made of roots which they call comas,
and which resemble onions in shape, but are of a
sweet taste. This bread is manufactured by steaming,
pounding and baking the roots on a kiln they
have for the purpose. About 4 o'clock we renewed
our journey, and went 2 miles to another small village,
through a beautiful rich plain, in which these
roots grow in abundance. We halted at the second
village all night and got some more provisions. About
dark a shower of rain fell.

Tuesday 24th. The morning was fine, and about
nine o'clock we set forward on our march towards
the river, all but one man who had gone back to look
for the horses and another that had remained at the
first village. The men are generally unwell, owing

to the change of diet. The valley is level and lightly
timbered with pine and spruce trees. The soil is
thin except in some small plains, where it is of the
first quality. The adjacent country appears much
the same; except that on the river it is broken with
hills and some rocks. In the valley there are great
quantities of service-berry bushes. In the evening
we arrived at the camp of our hunters on a river
about 100 yards broad, a branch of the Columbia.
The natives say it is two days march to the great
river. We encamped on a small island with our
hunters who had killed 5 deer, which was a very
pleasing circumstance to us; as the Indian provisions
did not agree with us. Captain Clarke gave all
the sick a dose of Rush's Pills, to see what effect
that would have. We found some of the natives
here upon the river fishing.

Wednesday 25th. A fine, pleasant, warm morning.
The hunters went out early and Capt. Clarke
rode out to see if there were any trees to be found
large enough for canoes. The men in general appear
to be getting much better; but Captain Lewis is
very sick and taking medicine; and myself and two
or three of the men are yet very unwell. The climate
here is warm; and the heat to-day was as great
as we had experienced at any time during the summer.
The water also is soft and warm, and perhaps
causes our indisposition more than any thing else.
In the evening Captain Clarke returned to camp, having
discovered a place about 5 or 6 miles down the
river, where a large branch comes in on the north
side that will furnish timber large enough for our
purpose. Our hunters also came in, and had killed
nothing but a small panther and a pheasant. The
man who had remained at the first village came up.

Thursday 26th. The morning was fine; and at 9
o'clock we left our camp; proceeded down the river
about 5 miles to the forks; and pitched our camp in

a handsome small bottom opposite the point. A
number of the natives came down in small canoes,
and encamped close to us, for the purpose of fishing;
and while we were encamping we saw a small raft
coming down the north fork loaded with fish. There
appears to be a kind of sheep in this country, besides
the Ibex or mountain sheep, and which have wool on.
I saw some of the skins, which the natives had,
with wool four inches long, and as fine, white and
soft as any I had ever seen. I also saw a buffaloe
robe with its wool or fur on as fine and soft as that of
beaver. Captain Lewis procured this, which we
considered a curiosity, in exchange for another buffaloe
robe.

This band of the Flatheads have a great many
beads and other articles, which they say they got
from white men at the mouth of this river; or where
the salt water is. They have a large stock of horses.
Their buffaloe robes and other skins they chiefly procure
on the Missouri, when they go over to hunt, as
there are no buffaloe in this part of the country and
very little other game. The most of the men of this
band are at present on a war expedition against some
nation to the northwest, that had killed some of their
people; as we understood in our imperfect communications
with them We arranged our camp and
made preparations for making canoes.

Friday 27th. A fine warm morning. All the men
who were able were employed in making canoes.
About 10 o'clock the man came in who had gone to
look for the horses, he had found one of them and
killed a deer. I feel much relieved from my indisposition.

In the evening the greater part of the war party
came in, and some of the principal men came down
to our camp. We could not understand what they
had done, as we could only converse by signs. Me-dalu
were given by the Commanding Officers to 3 or

4 of them as leading men of their nation; and they
remained about our camp. The river below the fork
is about 200 yards wide; the water is clear as chrystal,
from 2 to 5 feet deep, and abounding with salmon
of an excellent quality. The bottom of the river is
stony and the banks chiefly composed of a round
hard species of stone.

Saturday 28th. We had a pleasant morning and all
hands, that were able, employed at the canoes.—
Game is very scarce, and our hunters unable to kill
any meat. We are therefore obliged to live on fish
and roots, that we procure from the natives; and
which do not appear a suitable diet for us. Salt also
is scarce without which fish is but poor and insipid.
Our hunters killed nothing to day.

Sunday 29th. A fine day; all our hunters went out,
and all the men able to work, were employed at the
Canoes. At noon two of our hunters came in with 3
deer; a very welcome sight to the most of us. Five
or six of the men continue unwell.

Monday 30th. The weather continued pleasant;
and our hunters killed a deer.

Tuesday 1st. Oct. 1805. This was a fine pleasant
warm day. All the men are now able to work; but
the greater number are very weak. To save them
from hard labour, we have adopted the Indian method
of burning out the canoes.

Wednesday 2nd. Two men were sent to the Indian
village to purchase some provisions, as our hunters
do not kill enough for us to subsist on. And least
the Indian provisions should not agree with us, we
killed one of our horses.

On the third, the men were employed as
usual; on the morning of the fourth there was a
white frost, after it a fine day. In the evening our
two men returned, with a good supply of such provisions
as the natives have.

Saturday 5th. Having got pretty well forward in
our canoe making, we collected all our horses and
branded them, in order to leave them with the Indians,
the old chief having promised that they should
be well taken care of. In the evening we got two
of our canoes into the water.

During the sixth most of the hands were engaged
at the other canoes; and we buried our saddles and
some ammunition. The morning of the seventh was
pleasant, and we put the last of our canoes into the
water; loaded them, and found that they carried all
our baggage with convenience. We had four large
ones; and one small one, to look ahead. About 3
o'clock in the afternoon we began our voyage down
the river, and found the rapids in some places very
dangerous. One of our canoes sprung a leak. We
therefore halted and mended her, after going twenty
miles. The hills come close on the river on both
sides; where there are a few pine trees. Back from
the river the tops of the hills, to a great distance are
prairie land; and the country level.

Tuesday 8th. At 9 o'clock in a fine morning we
continued our voyage down the river: passed three
islands and several rapid; and at noon stopped at
some Indian lodges, of which there are a great many
along the river. At 2 we proceeded on again. In
the evening, in passing through a rapid, I had my
canoe stove, and she sunk. Fortunately the water
was not more than waist deep, so our lives and baggage
were saved, though the latter was wet. We
halted and encamped here to repair the canoe, after
coming 18 miles. At this place there are some lodges
of the natives on both sides of the river; a number
of whom keep about us, and we get some fish from
them. Two chiefs of the upper village joined us
here, and proposed to go on with us, until we should
meet with white people: which they say will be at
no great distance.

Wednesday 9th. We staid here during the whole
of this day, which was very pleasant, and repaired
our canoe. In the evening we got her completed
and all the baggage dry. Here our old Snake guide
deserted and took his son with him. I suspect he
was afraid of being cast away passing the rapids. At
dark one of the squaws, who keep about us, took a
crazy fit, and cut her arms from the wrists to the
shoulders, with a flint; and the natives had great
trouble and difficulty in getting her pacified. We
have some Frenchmen, who prefer dog-flesh to
fish; and they here got two or three dogs from the
Indians. All the country around is high prairie, or
open plains.

Thursday 10th. We had a fine morning; embarked
early, and passed over some very bad rapids. In
passing over one a canoe sprung a leak, but did not
sink; though the greater part of the loading was
wet; and we had to halt and dry it. We stopped a
short distance above the junction of this with another
large river. The natives call this eastern branch
Koos-koos-ke, and the western Ki-mo-ee-nem. Yesterday
evening I had a fit of the ague, and have been
very unwell to day; so much so that I am unable to
steer my canoe. In about 2 hours we continued our
voyage again: we found the southwest branch very
large, and of a goslin-green colour. About a mile
below the confluence we halted on the north side
and encamped for the night, as the wind blew so
hard we could not proceed. We came 20 miles
to day.

Friday 11th. We set out early in a fine morning;
proceeded on about 6 miles, and halted at some lodges
of the natives, where we got fish and several dogs.
We continued here about an hour and then went on.
No accident happened to day though we passed some
bad rapids. In the evening we stopped at some Indian
camps and remained all night, having come 30

miles. Here we get more fish and dogs. Most of
our people having been accustomed to meat, do not
relish the fish, but prefer dog meat; which, when
well cooked, tastes very well. Here we met an Indian
of another nation, who informed us we could
get to the falls in 4 days: which I presume are not
very high as the salmon come above them in abundance.
The country on both sides is high dry prairie
plains without a stick of timber. There is no wood
of any kind to be seen except a few small willows
along the shore; so that it is with difficulty we can
get enough to cook with. The hills on the river are
not very high, but rocky; the rocks of a dark colour.
The bed and shores of the river are very stony; and
the stones of a round smooth kind.

Saturday 12th. We had a fine morning and proceeded
on early. Two of the Flathead chiefs remained
on board with us, and two of their men went
with the stranger in a small canoe, and acted as pilots
or guides. We saw some ducks and a few geese, but
did not kill any of them. There is no four-footed
game of any kind near this part of the river, that
we could discover; and we saw no birds of any kind,
but a few hawks, eagles and crows. At noon we halted,
cooked and eat some fish and then proceeded on.
The country and river this day is much the same in
appearance as what we passed yesterday. A little
before sunset we came to a bad rapid, which we did
not wish to pass at night, so we encamped above on
the north side, having made 30 miles.

Some of the Flathead nation of Indians live all
along the river this far down. There are not more
than 4 lodges in a place or village, and these small
camps or villages are 8 or 10 miles apart: at each
camp there are 5 or 6 small canoes. Their summer
lodges are made of willows and flags, and their winter
lodges of split pine, almost like rails, which they

bring down on rafts to this part of the river where
there is no timber.

Sunday 13th. This was a cloudy wet morning, and
we did not set out till 11 o'clock: we then proceeded
with two canoes at a time over the rapids, which
are about 2 miles in length; and in about two hours
got all over safe. We then went on again and passed
more bad rapids, but got through safe. In the afternoon
the weather cleared and we had a fine evening.
Having gone 23 miles we encamped on the north side.
The country continues much the same, all high dry
prairie. One handsome creek comes in on the south
side.

Monday 14th. We embarked early in a fine clear
cool morning; passed some rapids; and at 11 came
to one very bad, but we got over without injury. We
saw some geese and ducks this forenoon and killed
some of the ducks. About 1 o'clock a canoe hit a
rock, and part of her sunk, and a number of the
things floated out. With the assistance of the other
canoes all the men got safe to shore; but the baggage
was wet, and some articles were lost. We halted
on an island to dry the baggage, having come 14
miles.