University of Virginia Library

CHAP. IV.

Saturday 29th. We set sail early and had fair
weather; passed a handsome bottom covered with
timber on the north side, and bluffs on the south.
We saw several Indians on the south side walking
up the shore; spoke to them and found they were
some of those we left yesterday. There were one or
two of the chiefs with them. They requested us to
give them a carrot of tobacco for the chiefs of the
other band to smoke. We sent them two carrots to
a sand bar, where they could get it; but told them
we should not go on shore again, until we came to
the nation of the Aricaris, commonly called Rickarees,
Rickrees or Rees. The Missouri is very shallow
at this time and full of sand bars. We passed an
old village on the south side, where the Rickarees
lived five years ago, and raised corn in the bottom,
around the village. We encamped on a sand beach
on the south side of the river.

Sunday 30th. We set out early in a cloudy morning;
passed black bluffs on the south side, and handsome
bottom prairie on the north; saw an Indian on
the shore, and the chief we had on board spoke to
him. He said he wished to come on board and go
with us to the Rees; but we did not take him. The
wind was fair and we made 9 miles by 10 o'clock.
We saw a great number of Indians coming down to
the river on the south side. We stopt for breakfast
about 200 yards from the shore: then proceeded about
a mile; near to the place where the Indians
were encamped on the south side; we halted and
spoke to them and then went on under a fine breeze
of wind.

A short time before night, the waves ran very

high and the boat rocked a great deal, which so alarmed
our old chief, that he would not go any further.
We encamped on the north side.

Monday 1st Oct. 1804. We early continued our
voyage, the morning was cloudy but the wind fair
and we sailed rapidly. At 9 we passed the river De
Chien, or Dog river; a large river that comes in on
the south side. A short distance above this river,
the sand bars are so numerous, that we had great
difficulty to get along; and encamped on one in the
middle of the river. There were some French traders
on the other bank of the river, and one of them
came over and remained with us all night.

Tuesday 2nd. We set sail before day light. A
Frenchman came on board, who could speak English.
He mentioned it as his opinion, that we should see no
more Indians, until we should arrive at the nation
of Rees. We passed a range of black bluffs on the
north side and a large bottom on the south, where
there was some timber on the bank of the river.
About 2 o'clock we discovered some Indians on the
hills on the north side, and one of them came down
to the bank and fired a gun; the object or intention
we did not well understand, but were ready to meet
an attack. We passed black bluffs on the south
side, an island covered with timber, and a handsome
bottom on the north side. We halted and spoke to
the Indian, who said he belonged to the Jonkta or
Barbarole band, and that there were 20 lodges of
them. We told him we had seen two of their chiefs,
and given them a flag and medal. We passed a
creek on the south side, and encamped on a sand bar
in the middle of the river.

Wednesday 3rd. The morning was cloudy, and
some rain fell. The land is high on both sides of
the river. About 12 o'clock the wind began to blow
so hard down the strean, that we were unable to proceed,
and we halted under some high bluffs, where

drift wood was plenty. At 3 we continued our voyage;
passed a long range of dark coloured bluffs on
the south side and bottom, with some timber, on the
north. We encamped on the south side.

Thursday 4th. We set out early; but were obliged
to return to the place where we halted yesterday at
12 and to take the other side of the river; the water
was so shallow and sand bars so numerous. At 9
o'clock an Indian swam across the river to see us,
when we stopped for breakfast. We informed him
that we were not traders, that we had seen his chief
and told him all we had to say. We proceeded on,
passed a creek on the south side, called Teel creek,
and encamped on the upper part of an island.

Friday 5th. This morning there was a white frost;
the day clear and pleasant. About 11 we saw some
goats swimming the river, when one of our hunters
ran up the shore and killed four of them, and we
took them into the boat and periogues as they floated
down. We passed a creek on the north side, called
Hidden creek, and high black bluffs on the south side.[1]
Some of our hunters having gone on an island to hunt
scared a prairie wolf into the river, which we killed.
We passed a creek on the south side called White
Goat creek and encamped on the north side.

Saturday 6th. We continued our voyage early, and
had a clear day; passed bluffs on the south side and
a bottom covered with timber on the north. About
11 we passed a handsome bottom, where a band of
the Rees lived last winter. They had left a number
of round huts covered with earth, some of their water

craft made of buffaloe hides, and some garden truck,
such as squashes. We proceeded on and passed a
small creek on the south side; a handsome bottom
on the north; and encamped on a sand beach on the
north side.

Sunday 7th. We set forward early and had a clear
day: passed a willow bottom on the south side; and
a creek on the north. At the beginning of some timber
land we passed a small river on the south side,
called Cer-wer-cer-na, about 90 yards wide. It is
not so sandy as the Missouri, and the water is clear,
with a deep channel. At the mouth of this river is a
wintering camp of the Rickarees of 60 lodges. We
saw two Sioux Indians on the north side, gave them
some meat and proceeded on. We passed an island,
on which Captain Clarke and one of the men went to
hunt and killed a deer and a prarow. We encamped
on the north side opposite the head of the island.

Monday 8th. The morning was pleasant and we
set out early: passed high land on the south side and
bottom on the north. The river here is very shallow
and full of sand bars. We passed a run on the
south side called slate run. Two of our hunters went
out to some timber land on the north side to look for
game. At 12 we came to a river on the south side,
120 yards wide, called the Marapa, where we halted
for dinner. The hunters came up, but had killed nothing.
We passed a long range of hills on the north
side; about two miles from the Marapa we passed
a creek 25 yards wide; and about four miles further
came to an island, where one band of the Rickarees
live, and encamped at the upper end.

Tuesday 9th. The day was stormy, and we remained
here preparing to hold a Council with the
nation. Captain Lewis with some of the men went
down to their lodges, and were used very kindly and
friendly. Two Frenchmen live with them, one to
trade and the other to interpret.

Wednesday 10th. This day I went with some of
the men to the lodges, about 60 in number. The
following is a description of the form of these lodges
and the manner of building them.

In a circle of a size suited to the dimensions of the
intended lodge, they set up 16 forked posts five or six
feet high, and lay poles from one fork to another.
Against these poles they lean other poles, slanting
from the ground, and extending about four inches
above the cross poles: these are to receive the ends
of the upper poles, that support the roof. They next
set up four large forks, fifteen feet high, and about
ten feet apart, in the middle of the area; and poles
or beams between these. The roof poles are then
laid on extending from the lower poles across the
beams which rest on the middle forks, of such a
length as to leave a hole at the top for a chimney.
The whole is then covered with willow branches, except
the chimney and a hole below to pass through.
On the willow branches they lay grass and lastly clay.
At the hole below they build a pen about four feet
wide and projecting ten feet from the hut; and hang
a buffaloe skin at the entrance of the hut for a door.
This labour like every other kind is chiefly performed
by the squaws. They raise corn, beans and tobacco.
Their tobacco is different from any I had before
seen: it answers for smoking, but not for chewing.
On our return, I crossed from the island to the boat,
with two squaws in a buffaloe skin stretched on a
frame made of boughs, wove together like a crate or
basket for that purpose. Captain Lewis and Captain
Clarke held a Council with the Indians, and gave
them some presents.

Thursday 11th. A clear day. We waited for an
answer from the Indians. About 12 o'clock, they
came, and brought some corn, beans and squashes,
which they presented to us. The chief said he was
glad to see us, and wished our commanding officers

would speak a good word for them to the Mandans;
for they wanted to be at peace with them. These are
the best looking Indians I have ever seen. At 1
o'clock P. M. we proceeded on our voyage; passed
a creek on the south side 20 yards wide and a handsome
bottom covered with timber. Having made
about four miles, we came to the second Village of
the Rickarees, situated in a prairie on the south side.
They had the American flag hoisted which Captain
Lewis gave them yesterday. Their lodges are similar
to those in the first village, and the same, or perhaps
more, in number. They are the most cleanly Indians
I have ever seen on the voyage; as well as the most
friendly and industrious. We anchored about 50
yards from shore, and sent a periogue over the river
for wood. We all slept on board except the cooks who
went on shore to prepare provisions for the next day.

Friday 12th. We had a pleasant morning, and remained
here the forenoon to hear the chief of this
village speak. Last night the Indians stole an axe
from our cook, which of course in some degree diminished
our confidence, and lessened the amicalble
character we had conceived of them. At 9 o'clock
Captain Lewis, Captain. Clarke and myself went to
the 2nd Village, and talked with its chief: then to
the third Village, about half a mile beyond a small
creek, and talked with the chief of that Village; and
got some corn and beans from them. The third village
is nearly of the same size of the second, and has
in it a great number of handsome and smart women
and children: the men are mostly out hunting. About
12 we left the village and proceeded on our voyage.
One of the natives agreed to go with us as far
as the Mandans. We encamped on the north side.
After dark we heard some person hallooing on the
opposite shore; and a periogue went over and
brought an Indian and two squaws, who remained
with us all night.

Saturday 13th. We proceeded on early and had a
cloudy day; passed Pond river on the north side,
about 50 yards wide. One of the squaws went on
with us. At 12 it rained some, and we halted to
hold a court martial. At 2 continued our voyage,
and did not get landing until after dark, the bank
was so high and steep on one side and the water so
shallow on the other. We encamped on the north side.

Sunday 14th. We had a cloudy morning and some
rain. We proceeded early on our voyage; passed a
bottom covered with timber on the south side and
low ground covered with willows on the north; passed
a creek and black bluffs on the south side and encamped
on the north. It rained slowly during the
whole of the day.

Monday 15th. It rained all last night, and we set
out early in a cloudy morning. At 7 we saw a hunting
party of the Rickarees, on their way down to the
villages. They had 12 buffaloe-skin canoes or boats
laden with meat and skins; besides some horses that
were going down the bank by land. They gave us a
part of their meat. The party consisted of men, women
and children. At 8 we went on again; passed
a fine bottom covered with cotton wood on the north
side, and naked hills on the south. About 10, we
saw another party of hunters, who asked us to eat
and gave us some meat. One of these requested to
speak with our young squaw, who for some time hid
herself, but at last came out and spoke with him.
She then went on shore and talked with him, and
gave him a pair of ear-rings and drops for leave to
come with us; and when the horn blew for all hands
to come on board, she left them and came to the boat.
We passed a creek on the south side, and encamped
at dusk on the north; where there was a party of Indians
about 30 in number. Our squaw remained
with this party: They gave us some meat and appeared
very glad to see us.

Tuesday 16th. We early renewed our voyage; and
had a clear morning, passed a creek on the south side.
The timber is more plenty than it has been for a
considerable distance down the river. The sand bars,
gave us a great deal of trouble, and much retarded
our progress. In the evening a short time before we
encamped, we met with another hunting party of
the Rickarees. They had a flock of goats, or antelopes,
in the river, and killed upwards of forty of
them. Captain Lewis, and one of our hunters went
out and killed three of the same flock. We encamped
on the south side. This day we saw more than
an hundred goats.

Wednesday 17th. We renewed our voyage early,
and had a clear morning. Last night eight of the
Indians came over to see us, brought us some meat
and remained all night. Captain Lewis, gave them
some presents this morning. At half past ten the
wind blew so hard down the river that we were obliged
to halt. At four we proceeded on with the assistance
of the tow line, though the wind still continued against
us, and having made about two miles, encamped on
the south side. Several hunters went out this day
and killed six deer: one of them did not join us at
night.

Thursday 18th. We had a clear pleasant morning
with some frost. We set sail early, and a hunter went
up each shore. Having proceeded two miles we met
a couple of Frenchmen in a canoe, who had been
up at the Mandan nation hunting, and met with a
party of that nation, who robbed them of their arms,
ammunition and some fur which they had; and therefore
they had to return down the river; but, meeting
us, went back in hopes of recovering their property.
We passed a small river, on the south side
called Cannon-ball river. Several hunters went out
here. We passed a creek on the north side, called
Fish creek, on which I killed a deer. At night we encamped

on the south side, and all the hunters came
in having killed six deer, four goats and a pelican.

Friday 19th. Early this morning we renewed
our voyage, having a clear day and a fair wind: passed
a creek on the south side. While out hunting
yesterday I saw about three hundred goats, and some
buffaloe. Deer are not so plenty here as lower
down the river, but elk, buffaloe and goats, are very
numerous. Four hunters went out to day and in the
evening returned with 7 deer and three elk. We encamped
on the north side.

Saturday 20th. We were early under way this
morning, which was very pleasant. Two hunters
went out and at breakfast time brought a deer to
the boat; when four more went out. We passed a
creek on the north side, about 20 yards wide; bottom
covered with timber on both sides, and a small
river on the south side opposite the lower point of an
island. At the upper end we passed bluffs on the
south side and bottom on the north. We this day,
saw a number of buffaloe, and goats on the sides of
the hills. We encamped on the south side, and our
hunters came in having killed 14 deer, a goat and a
wolf; and one of them wounded a large white bear.

Sunday 21st. We had a disagreeable night of sleet
and hail. It snowed during the forenoon, but we
proceeded early on our voyage, passed bottom on
the south side and hills on the north. We also passed
a small river on the south side called Chischeet river;
and encamped on the south side. Two of our hunters,
who had gone out in the morning came in, and
had killed a buffaloe and an otter.

Monday 22nd. Some snow fell last night, and the
morning was cloudy and cold. We embarked early
and went on. At 9 we saw 11 Indians of the Sioux
nation coming down from the Mandans, who, notwithstanding
the coldness of the weather, had not an
article of clothing except their breech-clouts. At L.

o'clock the day became clear and pleasant and we
encamped at night on the south side.

Tuesday 23rd. Some snow again fell last night,
and the morning was cloudy. At 6 it began to snow,
and continued snowing to 11, when it eeased. We
passed the place where the Frenchmen had been
robbed but no Indians could be seen. The hills here
aré further from the river than they are for some
distance down it; and there are fine large bottoms
on both sides covered with cotton wood. We encamped
on the south side where we found a great
quantity of rabbit berries. Three hunters were out
to day, but killed nothing.