Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents |
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Chapter XIII Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | ||
[Lewis—apparently the second draft:]
Friday August 2ed. 1805.
We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the [day]
was fair and wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar
to the South I determined to pass it if possible in order to
shorten our rout; this we effected by wading the river about
5 miles above our encampment of the last evening. we found
the current very rapid waist deep and about 90 yds. wide. bottom
smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. this
is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho' there
are many places between this and the forks where I presume it
might be attempted with equal success. The valley along
which we passed today, and through which the river winds it's
meandering course is from 6 to 8 miles wide and consists of a
bea[u]tifull level plain with but little timber and that confined
to the verge of the river; the land is tolerably fertile, and is
either black or a dark yellow loam, covered with grass from 9
inches to 2 feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either
side of the river to the bases of two ranges of high mountains,
which lye parallel to the river and prescribe the limits of the
plains. the tops of these mountains are yet covered partially
with snow, while we in the valley are nearly suffocated with the
intense heat of the mid-day sun; the nights are so cold that
two blankets are not more than sufficient covering. soon after
passing the river this morning Sergt. Gass lost my tommahawk
in the thick brush and we were unable to find it, I regret the
loss of this usefull implement, however accedents will happen
that it was not the only one we had with us. the bones of the
buffaloe and their excrement of an old date are to be met with
in every part of this valley but we have long since lost all hope
of meeting with that animal in these mountains. we met with
great quantities of currants today, two species of which were
red, others yellow, deep perple and black; also black goosberries
and serviceberries now ripe and in great perfection. we
feasted sumptuously on our wild fruits, particularly the yellow
currant and the deep perple serviceberries, which I found to
be excellent. the serviceberry grows on a small bush and
differs from ours only in colour size and superior excellence of
it's flavour. it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way we
saw an abundance of deer [and] Antelopes, of the former we
killed 2. we also saw many tracks of the Elk and bear.
no recent appearance of Indians. the Indians in this part of
the country appear to construct their lodges with the willow
boughs and brush; they are small of a conic figure and have
a small aperture on one side through which they enter. we
continued our rout up this valley on the Lard. side of the river
untill sunset, at which time we encamped on the Lard. bank of
the river having traveled 24 miles. we had brought with us a
good stock of venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I feel
myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition, and do not
doubt being able to pursue my rout tomorrow with the same
comfort I have done today. we saw some very large beaver
dams today in the bottoms of the river several of which wer
five feet high and overflowed several acres of land; these dams
are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so closely
interwoven that they resist the water perfectly. the base of
this work is thick and rises nearly perpendicularly on the lower
side while the upper side or that within the dam is gently
sloped. the brush appear to be laid in no regular order yet
acquires a strength by the irregularity with which they are
placed by the beaver that it would puzzle the engenuity of
man to give them.
Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity
of the current was such that his progress was slow, in short
they resist this current by any other means than that of the
cord and pole. in the course of the day they passed some
villages of burrowing squirrels, saw a number of beaver dams
and the inhabitants of them, many young ducks both of the
Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing duck, gees, several
rattle snakes, black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk;
they found the river much crouded with island[s] both large
and small and passed a small creek on Stard. side which we called
birth Creek.[7] Capt. Clark discovers a tumor rising on the inner
side of his ankle this evening which was painfull to him
(boils). they incamped in a level bottom on the Lard. side.
S. 80°. W. | 3/4 | to a Stard. bend |
S. 30°. W. | 1/4 | to a Lard. bend |
West. | 1/4 | to a bayou in the Lard. bend |
North | 1/2 | to a Stard. bend passing a riffle and 2 small Islds. |
S. 30°. W. | 3/4 | to a Lard. bend passing an Island |
N. 45°. W. | 1/2 | to a Stard. bend passing a Ba[y] ou Lard. side |
West | 2. | to an Island, passing two points on the Lard. side. 2 Islands and several bayous on Lard. the valley from 6 to 10 Mls.. wide |
South– | 1 1/8 | to a Lard. bend |
N. 45°. W. | 1/4 | to a Stard. bend being the Lard. side of an Isld. |
S. 40°. W. | 1/8 | along the Stard. bend of the Island. |
S. 60°. E. | 1/4 | to a Lard. bend passing the upper point of the Island. on the Stard. side. |
S. 45°. W. | 1/2 | in the Lard. bend |
N. 10°. W. | 3/4 | in the Stard. bend passing a bayou |
N. 80°. W. | 1/4 | to a Stard. bend, being the Lard. side of an Island |
S. 30°. W. | 3/4 | to a Lard. bend passing the Island. |
North | 1/4 | to a Stard. bend. |
S. 45°. W. | 1 | to the mouths of three bayous in a Stard. bend |
S. 30°. E. | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend |
S. 50°. W. | 1/8 | in the Lard. bend. |
N. 20°. W. | 1/2 | to a bayou in a Stard. bend. |
S. 20°. W. | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend |
N. 45°. W. | 1/4 | to a low bluff in a Stard. bend. |
S. 45°. W | 1/8 | along the Lard. bend passing a bayou on Stard. side |
S. 20°. E. | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend |
S. 50°. W. | 1/4 | to the lower point of an Island |
West | 1/4 | to a Lard. bend at a bayou, passing a bayou on the Stard. side and the Island. |
S. 60°. E. | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend passing an Island. |
S. 45°. W. | 1/4 | to a bayou on the Stard. side in a bend. |
South | 1/4 | to a lard. bend. |
S. 60°. W. | 1/2 | to a Stard. bend, at the entrance of a bayou, [Birth Cr.] which is rapid and 30 yds. wide |
S. 45°. E. | 1/8 | along the Stard. bend |
East. | 1/8 | to a Lard. bend |
South | 1/2 | to the mouth of a bayou in a Stard. bend |
S. 70°. W. | 3/4 | to a Stard. bend |
South | 1/4 | to a high bottom in a Stard. bend |
S. 70°. E. | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend, where they encamped for the night in a smooth plain. |
Miles | 17 |
Chapter XIII Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | ||