University of Virginia Library

VIII. The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK

Chapter VIII
PART II

FROM THE YELLOWSTONE TO THE MUSSELSHELL

VIII. Lewis's Journal, May 6–22, 1805
Clark's Journal, May 6–22

[Lewis:]

Monday May 6th. 1805.

THE morning being fair and pleasant and wind favourable
we set sale at an early hour, and proceeded on
very well the greater part of the day; the country
still continues level fertile and beautifull, the bottoms wide and
well timbered comparitively speaking with other parts of the
river; no appearance of birnt hills pumice stone or coal,
the salts of tartar or vegitable salts continues to appear on the
river banks, sand bars and in many parts of the plains most
generally in the little revines at the base of the low hills.
passed three streames today which discharged themselves on
the Lard. side; the first of these we call little dry creek it contained
some water in standing pools but discharged none, the
2ed. 50 yards wide no Water, we called it Big dry Creek, the
3rd. is [the] bed of a conspicuous river 200 yards wide which
we called little dry river; the banks of these streams are low
and bottoms wide with but little timber, their beds are almost
entirely formed of a fine brown sand intermixed with a small
proportion of little pebbles, which were either transparent,
white, green, red, yellow or brown. these streams appeared
to continue their width without diminution as far as we could
perceive them, which with rispect to the river, was many miles,

they had recenly discharged their waters. from the appearance
of these streams, and the country through which they
passed, we concluded that they had their sou[r]ces in level
low dry plains, which probably is the character of the country
for a great distance west of this, or to the vicinity of the black
hills, that the country being low on the same leve[1] nearly
and in the same parallel of latitude, that the rains in the spring
of the year suddonly melts the snow at the same time and
causes for a few days a vast quantity of water which finds it's
way to the Missouri through those channels; by reference to
the diary of the weather &c it will be percieved that there is
scarcely any rain during the summer Autumn and winter in
this open country distant from the mountains. Fields still
continues unwell. saw a brown bear swim the river above us,
he disappeared before we can get in reach of him; I find that
the curiossity of our party is pretty well satisfyed with rispect
to this anamal, the formidable appearance of the male bear
killed on the 5th. added to the difficulty with which they die
when even shot through the vital parts, has staggered the
resolution [of] several of them, others however seem keen
for action with the bear; I expect these gentlemen will give
us some amusement sho[r]tly as they [the bears—Ed.] soon
begin now to coppolate [copulate]. saw a great quantity of
game of every species common here. Capt Clark walked on
shore and killed two Elk, they were not in very good order,
we therefore took a part of the meat only; it is now only
amusement for Capt. C. and myself to kill as much meat as the
party can consum; I hope it may continue thus through our
whole rout, but this I do not much expect. two beaver were
taken in traps this mo[r]ning and one since shot by one of
the party. saw numbers of these anamals peeping at us as
we passed out of their wholes which they form of a cilindric
shape, by burrowing in the face of the abbrupt banks of the
river.

Courses and distances May 6th. 1805.

                         

		miles
S. 30°. W.	to a Stard. point opposite a low bluf, just above which little dry creek falls in on Lard.	1 1/2
N. 45°. W.	to a point of high timber in a bend on Stard. side at the mouth of Lackwater creek 25 yds. wide.	1 1/2
N. 40°. W.	to a point of high timber on Stard. side.	3.
S. 55°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side	3.
S. 70°. W.	to a point of woodland Stard. side, passing Big dry Creek at 1/2 M. on Lard.	2 1/2
S. 55°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. the river making a deep bend to N.W.	2
S. 50°. W.	to a point of woodland Stard. side opposite a low bluff on Lard. side	1 1/4
S. 60°. W.	to the entrance of a river 200 Yds. wide on Lard. side in a bend, this we called little dry river it having no water	3/4
North	to an object in center of a Stard. bend, a large sand Island on Lard. side	2 1/2
S. 40°. W.	to a willow point on the Stard. side opposite to a bluff on the Lard. side	4
S. 80°. W.	to a clump of high trees on the Stard. side passing a point on Lard. at 2 M. on which we encamped for the night	3
	Miles.	25.

May 6th. 1805. Point of observation N°. 10.

On the Stard. side, at the extremity of the 3rd. course of this day observed

       

	h m s
Equal altitudes of ☉ with Sextant. A. M.	8.59.57	lost by	Altd. by sext.
	9. 1.35	Clouds	71° 16′ 15″
	". 3.15

At noon the sun being obscured by clouds I was unable to observe his
Altitude; it continued cloudy the ballance of the day and prevented all
further observation.

[Clark:]

May 6th Monday 1805

a fine morning wind from the N.E. we set out early and
proceeded on verry well under sail the greater part of the day,
passed two creeks & a River to day on the Lard Side, neither
of them discharged any water into the Missouri, they were
wide and continued their width for Some distance, the little

water of those creeks & the little river must wash the low
country, I believe those Streams to be the conveyance of the
water of the heavy rains & melting Snows in the countrey
back &c. &c. I walked on shore and Killed two Elk neither of
which was fat, we saved the best of the meat, one beaver shot
to day. the countrey on both sides butifull no appearances
of either coal or pumice stone & burnt hills, The Salts of
Tarter or white aprs. of Salts are yet to be seen.

Course & Distance 6th of May

                         

	miles
S. 30°. W.	1 1/2	to the Std Side, at a point opsd a low bluff just above which on Lard. Little dry creek falls in 25.
N. 45°. W.	1 1/2	to a point of high timber in a bend to the Std. Side, at the mo: of a Creek 25 yd.
N. 40°. W.	3.	to a point of high timber on the Std. Side
S. 55°. W.	3.	to a point of woodland on the Lad4. Side
S. 70°. W	2 1/2	to a point of woodLand on the Std. Side passing a large creek on L.S. at 1/2 a mile containing but little water
S. 55°. W.	2.	to a point of wood land on the Lard. Side the river makeing a Deep bend to the N W.
S. 50°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land on the Std. Side opposit a bluff on the Lard Side
S. 60°. W.	3/4	to the mouth of a river 200 yds. wide in a bend to the Lard. Side, no water running in it at present
North	2 1/2	to an object in the center of a Stard. bend, a large Sand Island on Ld pt.
S. 40°. W.	4.	to a willow point on the Std. Side opposit to a bluff on the Lard Side
S. 80°. W.	3.	to a clump of high trees on the Stard. Side, passing a point on the Lard Side at 2 miles on which we encamped
miles	25

[Lewis:]

Tuesday May 7th. 1805.

A fine morning, set out at an early hour; the drift wood
begins to come down in consequence of the river's rising; the
water is somewhat clearer than usual, a circumstance I did not
expect on it's rise. at II. A. M. the wind became so hard that
we were compelled to ly by for several hours, one of the

small canoes by the bad management of the steersman filled
with water and had very nearly sunk; we unloaded her and
dryed the baggage; at one we proceed on the wind having in
some measure abated. the country we passed today on the
North side of the river is one of the most beautifull plains we
have yet seen, it rises gradually from the river bottom to the
hight of 50 or 60 feet, then becoming level as a bowling green,
extends back as far as the eye can reach; on the S. side the
river hills are more broken and much higher tho' some little
destance back the country becomes level and fertile. no appearance
of birnt hills coal or pumicestone, that of salts still
continue. vegitation appears to have advanced very little since
the 28th. Ult°. we continue to see a great number of bald
Eagles, I presume they must feed on the carcases of dead
anamals, for I see no fishing hawks to supp[l]y them with
their favorite food. the water of the river is so terbid that no
bird wich feeds exclusively on fish can subsist on it; from it's
mouth to this place I have neither seen the blue crested fisher
nor a fishing hawk. this day we killed 3 Buffaloe I Elk & 8
beaver; two of the Buffaloe killed by Capt Clark near our
encampment of this evening wer in good order dressed them
and saved the meat, the Elk I killed this morning, thought
it fat, but on examination found it so lean that we took the
tongue marrowbones and Skin only.

Courses and distances May 7th. 1805.

                 

		Miles
South.	to the point of a sand bar on Stard. side.	1 1/2
North	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side opposite a low bluff on Stard. side	2.
S. 75°. W.	to some high timber in the center of a Std. bend.	2
S. 10°. W.	to the upper point of a sandbar Stard. side	2 1/4
S. 40°. W.	to the upper point of the high timber in the center of a Lard. bend.	1 3/4
N. 45°. W.	to the point of a sandbar Lard. side	2 1/2
S. 15°. W.	to the upper part of the high timber near the center of a Lard. bend, passed the upper part of a large sandbar on Stard. and encamped on Lard. near the extremity of this course.[1]	3
	Mls.	15

May 7th. 1805 Point of Observation N°. II.

On the Lard. shore near the extremity of the 2ed. course of this day
observed Equal altitudes with Sextant.

       

	h m s		h m s
A.M.	8. 57. 48.5	P.M.	4. 23. 2.5.	Altitd by Sext.
	". 58.27		" .24.40.	° ′ ″
	9.☉–6		".25.21.	70.28.15.

Point of Observation N°. 12.

On the Lard. shore at the extremity of the 5th. course of this day
Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉'s. L. L. with Octant by the back observation
67° 16′.

Latitude deduced from this observation N 47°34′.11″.6

This observation was very satisfactory and may be depended on as
accurate.

May 7th. 1805. Point of Observation N° 13.

At our encampement of this evening observed time and distance of
Ds. Western limb from Spica η χ with Sextant.

Mean of a set of ten Observations.

     

	Time	Distance
	h m ″	° ′ ″
P.M.	10. 33. 47.5	36. 59. 52.5

I could not observe Pollux in consequence of the clouds.

[Clark:]

May 7th Tuesday, 1805

A fine morning. river rose 1 1/2 Inches last night, the drift
wood beginning to run, the water something clearer than
usial, the wind became verry hard, and at II oClock one
canoe by bad Stearing filled with water, which detained is
about 3 hours, had a Meridian altitude, the Latd. from which
is 47° 36′. II″. 6/16 The countrey on the North Side of the
Missouri is one of the handsomest plains we have yet seen on
the river the plain rises from the river bottom gradually. The
Hills on the South Side is high & uneavin. no appearance
of coal or burnt hills, that of Salts still appear. vegetation
appears to be Slow. I walked on the bank to day and shot

2 beaver, in the evening Killed two Buffalow in tolerable
order which we saved and camped on the Lard Side 8 beaver,
3 buffalow & an Elk killed to day

Course & Distance the 7th. of May

                 

	miles
South	1 ½	to the point of a Sand bar from the Starboard Side
North	2	to a point of wood land on the L.S. opposit a low bluff on the Std. Side
S. 75°. W.	2	to Some high timber in the center of the bend to the Std. Side
S. 10°.	2 1/4	to the upper point of a Sand bar Std. Sd.
S. 40° W.	1 3/4	to the upper point of a high timber in a bend to the Lard Side
N. 45° W.	2 ½	to the point of a Sand bar Lard Side
S. 15° W.	3	to the upper part of a high timber in a bend to the Lard. Side. pa[s]sed the upper part of a large Sand bar
miles	15

[Lewis:]

Wednesday May 8th. 1805.

Set out at an early hour, under a gentle brieze from the
East. a black cloud which suddonly sprung up at S.E. soon
over shaddowed the horizon; at 8 A. M. it gave us a slight
sprink[l]e of rain, the wind became much stronger but not
so much so as to detain us. we nooned it just above the entrance
of a large river which disimbogues on the Lard. [Starbd]
side; I took the advantage of this leasure moment and
examined the river about 3 miles; I found it generally 150
yards wide, and in some places 200. it is deep, gentle in it's
courant and affords a large boddy of water; it's banks which
are formed of a dark rich loam and blue clay are abbrupt and
about 12 feet high. it's bed is principally mud. I have no
doubt but it is navigable for boats perogues and canoes, for
the latter probably a great distance. the bottoms of this
stream ar wide, level, fertile and possess a considerable proportion
of timber, principally Cottonwood. from the quantity
of water furnished by this river it must water a large extent
of country; perhaps this river also might furnish a practicable
and advantageous communication with the Saskashiwan river;
it is sufficiently large to justify a belief that it might reach to

that river if it's direction be such. the water of this river
possesses a peculiar whiteness, being about the colour of a cup
of tea with the admixture of a tablespoonfull of milk. from the
colour of it's water we called it Milk river.[2] we think it possible
that this may be the river called by the Minitares the
river which scoalds at all others or [blank space in MS.] (This
is Maria's river see aftd.) Capt Clark who walked this morning
on the Lard. shore ascended a very high point opposite to
the mouth of this river; he informed me that he had a perfect
view of this river and the country through which it passed for
a great distance probably 50 or 60 Miles,[3] that the country
was level and beautifull on both sides of the river, with large
herds of Buffaloe distributed throughout: that the river from
it's mouth bore N.W. for 12 or 15 Miles when it forked, the
one taking a direction nearly North, and the other to the West
of N. West. from the appearance of the Vallies and the timber
on each of these streams Capt. C. supposed that they were
about the same size. great appearance of beaver on this river,
and I have no doubt but what they continue abundant, there
being plenty of cottonwood and willow, the timber on which
they subsist. The country on the Lard. side of the river is
generally high broken hills, with much broken, grey black and
brown grannite scattered on the surface of the earth in a confused
manner. The wild Licquorice is found on the sides of
these hills, in great abundance. at a little distance from the
river there is no timber to be seen on either side; the bottom
lands are not more than one fifth covered with timber; the
timber as below is confined to the borders of the river. in
future it will be understood that there is no timber of any
discription on the upland unless particularly mentioned; and
also that one fifth of the bottom lands being covered with
timber is considered a large proportion. The white apple is
found in great abundance in this neighbourhood; it is confined
to the highlands principally. The whiteapple,[4] so called
by the French Engages, is a plant which rises to the hight of
6 or 9 Inhs. rarely exceeding a foot; it puts forth from one
to four and sometimes more stalks from the same root, but is
most generally found with one only, which is branched but
not defusely, is cylindric and villose; the leafstalks, cylindric,
villose and very long compared with the hight of the plant,
tho' gradually diminish in length as they ascend, and are irregular
in point of position; the leaf, digitate, from three to
five in number, oval 1 Inch long, absolutely entire and cottony:
the whole plant of a pale green, except the under disk
of the leaf which is of a white colour from the cottony substance
with which it is covered. the radix a tuberous bulb;
generally ova formed [oviform], sometimes longer and more
rarely partially divided or branc[h]ing; always attended with
one or more radicles at it's lower extremity which sink from
4 to 6 inches deep. the bulb covered with a rough black,
tough, thin rind which easily seperates from the bulb which
is a fine white substance, somewhat porus, spungy and moist,
and reather tough before it is dressed; the center of the bulb
is penitrated with a small tough string or liga-ment, which
passing from the bottom of the stem terminates in the extremity
of the radicle, which last is also covered by a prolongation
of the rind which invellopes the bulb: The bulb is
usually found at the debth of 4 inches and frequently much
deeper. This root forms a considerable article of food with
the Indians of the Missouri, who for this purpose prepare
them in several ways. they are esteemed good at all seasons
of the year, but are best from the middle of July to the latter
end of Autumn when they are sought and gathered by the
provident part of the natives for their winter store. when
collected they are striped of their rhind and strung on small
throngs or chords and exposed to the sun or plased in the
smoke of their fires to dry; when well dryed they will keep
for several years, provided they are not permitted to become
moist or damp; in this situation they usually pound them
between two stones placed on a piece of parchment, untill they
reduce it to a fine powder, thus prepared they thicken their
soope with it; sometimes they also boil these dryed roots with
their meat without breaking them; when green they are generally
boiled with their meat, sometimes mashing them or otherwise
as they think proper. they also prepare an agrèeable
dish with them by boiling and mashing them and adding the
marrow grease of the buffaloe and some buries, untill the whole
be of the consistency of a haisty pudding. they also eat this
root roasted and frequently make hearty meals of it raw without
sustaining any inconvenience or injury therefrom. The
White or brown bear feed very much on this root, which their
tallons assist them to procure very readily. the white apple
appears to me to be a tastless insippid food of itself, tho' I
have no doubt but it is a very healthy and moderately nutricious
food. I have no doubt but our epicures would admire
this root very much, it would serve them in their ragouts and
gravies in stead of the truffles morella.

We saw a great number of buffaloe, Elk, common and Black
taled deer, goats beaver and wolves. Capt C. killed a beaver
and a wolf, the party killed 3 beaver and a deer. we can
send out at any time and obtain whatever species of meat the
country affords in as large quantity as we wish. we saw where
an Indian had recently grained, or taken the hair off of a
goatskin; we do not wish to see those gentlemen just now as
we presume they would most probably be the Assinniboins
and might be troublesome to us. Capt C. could not be certain
but thought he saw the smoke and some Indian lodges at a
considrable distance up Milk river.

Courses and distances of May 8th. 1805.

                         

S. 88°. W.	to a point of timbered land on the Stard. side opposite to a bluff of black earth	1. 1/2
N. 60°. W.	on the Stard. side.	1/4
North.	to some high timber on the Lard. side	2.
East.	to the extremity of a sandbar from a Lard. point; passed a gulf on Stard.	1. 1/4
N. 70°. W.	to a point of timber Lard. side	2.
S. 65°. W.	to a point of timber on the Stard. side	2.
S. 55°. W.	to a point on the Stard. side	2. 1/4
S. 85°. W.	to a point of timbered land on the Lard. side, passing a projecting point in a bend on Stard. side at 3 1/2 miles	5. 3/4
S. 74°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side, passing a large river on the Stard side at 1/2 a mile we call this Milk river.	4.
N. 5°. W.	to a sand point on the Lard. side	2. 1/2
N. 70°. W.	to some high timber on the Lard. side opposite to a low bluff on Stard.	1. 1/2
S. 18°. W.	to a point of high timber on the Stard. side opposite to a bluff on the Lard. side, short of which one mile, we encamped on the Lard. side	3.
	Miles.	28

[Clark:]

May the 8th: Wednesday 1805

a verry black cloud to the S W. we set out under a gentle
breeze from the N.E. about 8 oClock began to rain, but
not sufficent to wet, we passed the mouth of a large river
on the Starboard Side 150 yards wide and appears to be navagable.
the countrey thro which it passes as far as could be
seen from the top of a verry high hill on which I was, is a
butifull leavil plain this river forks about N W from its
mouth 12 or 15 miles one fork runs from the North & the
other to the West of N W. the water of this river will justify
a belief that it has its source at a considerable distance, and
waters a great extent of countrey. We are willing to believe
that this is the River the Minitarres call the river which
Scolds at all others the countrey on the Lard. Side is high
& broken with much stone scattered on the hills, In walking
on Shore with the Interpreter & his wife, the Squar Geathered
on the sides of the hills wild Lickerish, & the white apple as
called by the angegees [engagés] and gave me to eat, the
Indians of the Missouri make Great use of the white apple
dressed in different ways. Saw great numbers of Buffalow,
Elk, Antelope & Deer, also black tale deer beaver & wolves,
I killed a beaver which I found on the bank, & a wolf. The
party killed 3 Beaver 1 Deer I saw where an Indian had
taken the hair off a goat skin a fiew days past. Camped early

on the Lard. Side. The river we passed today we call Milk
river from the peculiar whiteness of it's water, which precisely
resembles tea with a considerable mixture of milk.[5]

Course and Distance the 8th. of May.

                           

	miles
S. 88°. W,	1 1/2	to a point of timbered land on the Std. Side opsd. a bluff of black earth L.
N. 60°. W	1/4	on the Starboard Side
North	2	to the high timber on the Lard. Side
East	1 1/4	to the extremity of a Sand bar from the Lard point passed a Gulf
N. 70°. W.	2	to a point of timber on Lard. Side
S. 65°. W.	2	to a point of timber on the Stard. Side
S. 55°. W.	2 1/4	to a point on the Stard. Side
S. 85°. W	5 3/4	to a point of timbered land on the Lard Side, passing a projected point in a bend to Stard Side at 3 1/2 miles
S. 74°. W	4	to a point of wood land on the Stard Side passed a large river on the Std. Side at 1/2 a mile
N. 5°. W.	2 1/2	to a sand point on the Lard Side
N. 70°. W.	1 1/2	to some high timber on the Ld. Side opposit a low bluff on the S.S.
S. 18°. W.	3,	to a point of high trees on the Starbord Side opposit a bluff on the Lard Side, we camped one mile Short on the L. Side
miles	28

[Lewis:]

Thursday May 9th 1805.

Set out at an early hour; the wind being favourable we
used our sails and proceeded very well; the country in appearance
is much as yester[day], with this difference that the land
appears more fertile particularly of the Lard. hills which are
not so stoney and less broken; the timber has also in some
measure declined in quantity. today we passed the bed of
the most extraordinary river that I ever beheld. it is as wide
as the Missouri is at this place or 1/2 a mile wide and not containing
a single drop of runing water; some small standing
pools being all the water that could be perceived. it falls in

on the Lard. side. I walked up this river about three miles
and ascended an eminence from which I could perceive it
many miles; it's course about South for 10 or 12 Miles,
when it veered around to the E of S.E. as far as I could see.
the valley of this river is wide and possesses but a scanty proportion
of timber; the hills which border it are not very high
nor is the country very broken; it is what may properly be
designated a wavy or roling country intersperced with some
handsom level plains. the bank[s] are low and abbrupt, seldom
more than 6 or eight feet above the level of the bed, yet
show but little appearance of being overflown; they are of
black or yellow clay or a rich sandy loam. the bed is entirely
composed of a light brown sand the particles of which as well
as that of the Missoury are remarkably fine. this river I presume
must extend back as far as the black hills and probably
is the channel through which a great extent of plain country
discharge their superfluous waters in the spring season. it
had the appearance of having recently discharged it's waters;
and from the watermark, it did not appear that it had been
more than 2 feet deep at it's greatest hight. This stream (if
such it can properly be termed) we called Big dry river. about
a mile below this river on the same side a large creek falls in
also dry at present. The mineral salts and quarts [quartz]
appear in large quantities in this neighbourhood. the sand
of the Missouri from it's mouth to this place has always
possessed a mixture of granulated talk [talc] or I now think
most probably that it[6] is this quarts. Capt C. killed 2 bucks
and 2 buffaloe, I also killed one buffaloe which proved to be
the best meat, it was in tolerable order; we saved the best
of the meat, and from the cow I killed we saved the necessary
materials for making what our wrighthand cook Charbono
calls the boudin (poudingue) blanc, and immediately set him
about preparing them for supper; this white pudding we all
esteem one of the greatest del[ic]acies of the forrest, it may
not be amiss therefore to give it a place. About 6 feet of the
lower extremity of the large gut of the Buffaloe is the first
mo[r]sel that the cook makes love to, this he holds fast at
one end with the right hand, while with the forefinger and
thumb of the left he gently compresses it, and discharges what
he says is not good to eat, but of which in the s[e]quel we
get a moderate portion; the mustle lying underneath the
shoulder blade next to the back, and fillets are next saught,
these are needed up very fine with a good portion of kidney
suit [suet]; to this composition is then added a just proportion
of pepper and salt and a small quantity of flour; thus
far advanced, our skilfull opporater C—o seizes his recepticle,
which has never once touched the water, for that would
intirely distroy the regular order of the whole procedure;
you will not forget that the side you now see is that covered
with a good coat of fat provided the anamal be in good order;
the operator sceizes the recepticle I say, and tying it fast at
one end turns it inward and begins now with repeated evolutions
of the hand and arm, and a brisk motion of the finger
and thumb to put in what he says is bon pour manger; thus
by stuffing and compressing he soon distends the recepticle
to the utmost limmits of it's power of expansion,[7] and in the
course of it's longtudinal progress it drives from the other
end of the recepticle a much larger portion of the [blank space
in MS.] than was prev[i]ously discharged by the finger and
thumb of the left hand in a former part of the operation;
thus when the sides of the recepticle are skilfully exchanged
the outer for the iner, and all is compleatly filled with something
good to eat, it is tyed at the other end, but not any
cut off, for that would make the pattern too scant; it is then
baptised in the missouri with two dips and a flirt, and bobbed
into the kettle; from whence, after it be well boiled it is
taken and fryed with bears oil untill it becomes brown, when
it is ready to esswage the pangs of a keen appetite or such
as travelers in the wilderness are seldom at a loss for.

we saw a great quantity of game today particularly of Elk
and Buffaloe, the latter are now so gentle that the men frequently
throw sticks and stones at them in order to drive them
out of the way. we also saw this evening emence quantities
of timber cut by the beaver which appeared to have been done
the preceeding year, in [one] place particularly they had cut
all the timber down for three acres in front and on nearly one
back from the river and had removed a considerable proportion
of it, the timber grew very thick and some of it was as large
as a man's body. the river for several days has been as wide
as it is generally near it's mouth, tho' it is much shallower or
I should begin to dispair of ever reaching it's source; it has
been crouded today with many sandbars; the water also appears
to become clearer, it has changed it's complexin very considerably.
I begin to feel extreemly anxious to get in view of
the rocky mountains.

I killed four plover this evening of a different species from
any I have yet seen; it resembles the grey or whistling plover
more than any other of this family of birds; it is about the
size of the yellow legged or large grey plover common to the
lower part of this river as well as most parts of the Atlantic
States where they are sometimes called the Jack curloo; the
eye is moderately large, are black with a narrow ring of dark
yellowish brown; the head, neck, upper part of the body and
coverts of the wings are of a dove coloured brown, which when
the bird is at rest is the predominant colour; the brest and
belley are of a brownish white; the tail is composed of 12
feathers of 3 Ins. being of equal length, of these the two in the
center are black, with traverse bars of yellowish brown; the
others are a brownish white. the large feathers of the wings
are white tiped with blacked. the beak is black, 2 ½ inches
in length, slightly tapering, streight, of a cilindric form and
blontly or roundly pointed; the chaps are of equal length, and
nostrils narrow. longitudional and connected; the feet and legs
are smoth and of a greenish brown; has three long toes and a
sho[r]t one on each foot, the long toes are unconnected with a
web, and the short one is placed very high up the leg behind,
insomuch that it dose not touch the ground when the bird

stands erect. the notes of this bird are louder and more
various than any other of this family that I have seen[8] .

Courses and distances of May 9thth. 1805.

                     

		Miles
N. 30°. W.	to a clump of high trees on the Stard. side in a bend	2 ½
S. 15°. W.	to the upper part of the Lard. point, passing over a large sand bar, at the upper point of a large Island in a deep bend to the N.	2 ½
S. 5°. W.	to a point of high timber on the Stard. side, opposite to a bluff point on Lard. side	3.
S. 20°. E.	to a willow point on the Stard. side	6.
S. 10°. E.	to the entrance of big Dry river on Lard. side.	1 1/4
S. 85°. W.	to a bluff point on the Lard. side	1 1/2
N. 60. W.	to a tree in the center of a bend on stard. passing over a sand point from Lard. side	3.
South.	to the upper part of a timbered bottom in a bend on Lard. side.	1 3/4
S. 60. W.	to the entrance of a small creek, in a bend on Stard. side called Werner's C[9] . where we encamped for the night (the water this Creek contained was principally backwater)	3
	Miles—	24 1/2

Point of Observation N°. 14.

At our encampment of this evening, observed time and distance of
☽'s Western limb from Regulus, * West. with Sextant.

The mean result of a set of 10. obsertns.

     

	Time	Distance
	h. m. s.	° ′ ″
P.M.	10. 6. 13. 4.	43. 30. 15.

☞ It clouded up suddonly and prevented my takeing any observations
with Antares.

[Clark:]

May 9th" Thursday 1805

a fine Day wind from the East we proceeded on verry well
the countrey much the appearance which it had yesterday the
bottom & high land rich black earth, Timber not so abondant
as below, we passed the mouth of a river (or the appearance
of a river) on the Lard. Side the bend of which as far as we

Went up it or could See from a high hill is as large as that of
the Missouri at this place which is near half a mile this river
did not contain one drop of running water, about a mile
below this river a large creeke joins the river L.S. which is also
Dry. Those dry Streams which are also verry wide, I think
is the conveyance of the melted Snow, & heavy rains which
[it] is Probable fall in from the high mountainous Countrey
which is said to be between this river & the Yellow Stone
river. I walked on shore the fore part of this day, & observed
Great quantities of the Shining Stone which we view as quarts.
I killed 2 Bucks & a Buffalow, Capt Lewis also killed one
which verry good meat, I saw enumerable herds of buffalow,
& goats to day in every direction. The Missouri keeps its
width which is nearly as wide as near its mouth, great number
of sand bars, the water not so muddy & sand finer & in smaller
perpotion. Capt. Lewis killed 4 pleaver different from any I
have ever before seen, larger & have white breast & the underfeathers
of the wings are white &c.

Course & Distance 9th. of May

                     

	miles
N. 30°. W.	2 ½	to a clump of high trees on the Stard Side in a bend
S. 15°. W.	2 ½	to the upper part of the Lard point, passing over a large sand bar at the upper pt. of a willow Island in a deep bend to the N.
S. 5°. W.	3	to a point of high timber on the Std Side opsd. a bluff pt. on the Ld Side
S. 20°. E.	6	to a willow point on the Std. Side
S. 10°. E	1 1/4	to the enterance of a Great Dry river on the Lard. Side
S. 85°. W.	1 ½	to a bluff point on the Lard. Side
N. 60°. W.	3	to a tree in a bend to the Std. Side passing over a sand pt. from L.S.
South	1 3/4	to the upper part of the timbered bottom on the Lad Side in a bend
S 60°. W	3m	to the mouth of a small creek in a bend to the Stad Side in the mouth of which we came too for the night and called this creek Verner's Creek, the water it contained was principally backwater[10]
m	24 ½

[Lewis:]

Friday May 10th. 1805.

Set out at sunrise and proceeded but a short distance ere the
wind became so violent that we were obliged to come too,
which we did on the Lard. side in a suddon or short bend of
the river where we were in a great measure sheltered from the
effects of the wind. the wind continued violent all day, the
clouds were thick and black, had a slight sprinkle of rain
several times in the course of the day. we sent out several
hunters to scower the country, to this we were induced not so
much from the want of provision as to discover the Indians
whome we had reasons to believe were in the neighbourhood,
from the circumstance of one of their dogs comeing to us this
morning shortly after we landed; we still beleive ourselves in
the country usually hunted by the Assinniboins, and as they
are a vicious illy disposed nation we think it best to be on our
guard; accordingly we inspected the arms and accoutrements
of the party and found them all in good order. The hunters
returned this evening having seen no tents or Indians nor any
fresh sign of them; they killed two Mule deer, one common
fallow or longtailed deer, 2 Buffaloe and 5 beaver, and saw
several deer of the Mule kind of immence size, and also three
of the Bighorned anamals. from the appearance of the Mule
deer and the bighorned anamals we beleive ourselves fast approaching
a hilly or mountainous country; we have rarely
found the mule deer in any except a rough country; they
prefer the open grounds and are seldom found in the woodlands
near the river; when they are met with in the woodlands
or river bottoms and are pursued, the[y] invariably run to the
hills or open country as the Elk do. the contrary happens
with the common deer. ther are several esscential differences
between the Mule and common deer as well in form as in
habits. they are fully a third larger in general, and the male
is particularly large; I think there is somewhat greater disparity
of size between the male and female of this species than
there is between the male and female fallow deer; I am convinced
I have seen a buck of this spcies twice the volume of
a buck of any other species. the ears are peculiarly large, I
measured those of a large buck which I found to be eleven

inches long and 3½ in width at the widest part; they are not
so delicately formed, their hair in winter is thicker longer and
of a much darker grey, in summer the hair is still coarser
longer and of a paleer red, more like that of the Elk; in winter
they also have a considerable quantity of a very fine wool intermixed
with the hair and lying next to the skin as the Antelope
has. the long hair which grows on the outer sides of
the 1st. joint of the hinder legs, and which in the common deer
do not usually occupy more than 2 inches in them occupys
from 6 to eight; their horns also differ, these in the common
deer consist of two main beams from which one or more points
project the beam graduly deminishing as the points procede
from it, with the mule deer the horns consist of two beams
which at the distance of 4 or 6 inches from the head divide themselves
each into two equal branches which again either divide
into two other equal branches or terminate in a smaller, and two
equal ones; having either 2. 4 or 6 points on a beam; the horn
is not so rough about the base as the common deer and are
invariably of a much darker colour. the most striking difference
of all, is the white rump and tale. from the root of the
tail as a center there is a circular spot perfectly white of abot
3 inches radius, which occupys a part of the rump and extremitys
of the buttocks and joins the white of the belley under
neath; the tail which is usually from 8 to 9 inches long, for
the first 4 or 5 inches from it's upper extremity is covered
with sho[r]t white hairs, much shorter indeed than the hairs
of the body; from hence for about one inch further the
hair is still white but gradually becomes longer, the tail then
terminates in a tissue of black hair of about 3 Inches long.
from this black hair of the tail they have obtained among the
French engages the appelation of the black taled deer, but this
I conceive by no means characteristic of the anamal as much
the larger portion of the tail is white. the year and the tail of
this anamal when compared with those of the common deer, so
well comported with those of the mule when compared with
the horse, that we have by way of distinction adapted the appellation
of the mule deer which I think much more appropriate.
on the inner corner of each eye there is a drane or
large recepicle which seems to answer as a drane to the eye
which gives it the appearance of weeping, this in the common
deer of the atlantic states is scarcely perceptable but becomes
more conspicuous in the fallow deer, and still more so in the
Elk; this recepticle in the Elk is larger than in any of the
pecora order with which I am acquainted.

Boils and imposthumes [i. e., abscesses] have been very common
with the party Bratton is now unable to work with one
on his hand; soar eyes continue also to be common to all of
us in a greater or less degree. for the imposthume I use emmolient
poltices, and for soar eyes a solution of white vitriol
and the sugar of lead in the proportion of 2 grs. of the former
and one of the latter to each ounce of water.

Courses and distances May 10th. 1805.

       

South	to a naked point on the Stard. side	1 1/4
S. 10°. W.	to a point on the Lard. side opposite to a bluff on Lard. water strong	1 3/4
N. 45°. E.	to the upper part of some timber in a bend on lard. side, where we encamped	1 1/4
	Miles	4 1/4

Point of Observation N°. 15.

On the Lard. shore about the middle of the 3rd. course of this day. took
Equal altitudes of ☉ with sextant.

       

	h m s
A.M.	8.58.14	P.M. lost by	Altd. of Sext.
	".59.48
	9.1.31	the clouds	72. 12. 45.

[Clark:]

May the 10th Friday 1805

river fell 3/4 of an inch last night, wind from the N.W., we
proceeded on but a short distance e're the wind became so violent
we could not proceed came to on the Lard. Side in a short
bend, the wind continued all day Several times in the course
of the day we had some fiew drops of rain from verry black
clouds, no thunder or lightning latterly, Soon after we landed
a Dog came to us from the opposit Side, which induced a belief
that we had not passed the Assinniboin Indians, parties wer

sent on the hills in different derections to examine but saw no
tents or fresh Sign. examined the arms &c. of the party found
all in good order. Three mule deer, two Buffalow & 5 beaver
killed, 3 of the mountain ram Seen.

Cours & Distance the 10th of May 1805

       

South.	1 1/4	miles to a naked point on the Stard. Side
S. 10°. W.	1 3/4	miles to a point on the Lard Side opposit to a Bluff on the Stard. Side water Strong
N. 45°. E.	1 1/4	to the upper part of some timber in a bend to the Lard Side, at which place we camped
	4 1/4

The mule Deer Described in Book No. 8.

[Lewis:]

Saturday May 11th. 1805.

Set out this morning at an early hour, the courant strong;
and river very crooked; the banks are falling in very fast; I
sometimes wonder that some of our canoes or perogues are
not swallowed up by means of these immence masses of earth
which are eternally precipitating themselves into the river; we
have had many hairbreadth escapes from them but providence
seems so to have ordered it that we have as yet sustained no
loss in consequence of them. The wind blue very hard the
forepart of last night but abated toward morning; it again
arose in the after part of this day and retarded our progress
very much. the high lands are broken, the hills higher and approach
nearer the river, tho' the soil of both hills and bottoms
appear equally as furtile as below; it consists of a black looking
lome with a moderate portion of sand; the hills and
bluffs to the debth of 20 or thirty feet, seemed to be composed
entirely of this loam; when thrown in the water it
desolves as readily as loaf sugar and effervesses like marle.
great appearance of quarts and mineral salts, the latter appears
both on the hills and bottoms, in the bottoms of the gullies
which make down from the hills it lies incrusting the earth to
the debth of 2 or 3 inches, and may with a fether be swept up
and collected in large quantities, I preserved several specimines
of this salts. the quarts appears most commonly in the faces

of the bluffs. no coal, burnt hills, or pumice stone. saw
today some high hills on the Stard. whose summits were covered
with pine. Capt Clark went on shore and visited them;
he brought with him on his return som of the boughs of this
pine it is of the pitch kind but I think the leaves somewhat
longer than ours in Virginia. Capt C. also in his walk killed
2 Mule deer a beaver and two buffaloe; these last he killed
about 3 miles above where we encamped this evening in the
expectation that we would reach that place, but we were unable
to do so from the adverse winds and other occurrences, and he
came down and joined us about dark. there is a dwarf cedar
growing among the pine on the hills; it rises to the hight [of]
thre[e] sometimes 4 feet, but most generally spreads itself like
a vine along the surface of the earth, which it covers very
closely, puting out roots from the underside of the limbs; the
leaf is finer and more delicate than the common red ceader,
it's fruit and smell are the same with the red ceader. the tops
of these hills which produce the pine and cedar is of a different
soil from that just described; it is a light coloured poor
sterile sandy soil, the base usually a yellow or white clay; it
produces scarcely any grass, some scattering tuffts of sedge
constitutes the greater part of it's grass. About 5. P. M. my
attention was struck by one of the Party runing at a distance
towards us and making signs and hollowing as if in distress,
I ordered the perogues to put too, and waited untill he
arrived; I now found that it was Bratton the man with the
soar hand whom I had permitted to walk on shore, he
arrived so much out of breath that it was several minutes
before he could tell what had happened; at length he informed
me that in the woody bottom on the Lard. side about 1 1/2
[miles] below us he had shot a brown bear which immediately
turned on him and pursued him a considerable distance but he
had wounded it so badly that it could not overtake him; I
immediately turned out with seven of the party in quest of
this monster, we at length found his trale and persued him
about a mile by the blood through very thick brush of rosbushes
and the large leafed willow; we finally found him concealed
in some very thick brush and shot him through the
skull with two balls; we proceeded [to] dress him as soon as
possible, we found him in good order; it was a monstrous
beast, not quite so large as that we killed a few days past but
in all other rispects much the same the hair is remarkably
long fine and rich tho' he appears parshally to have discharged
his winter coat; we now found that Bratton had shot him
through the center of the lungs, notwithstanding which he had
pursued him near half a mile and had returned more than
double that distance and with his tallons had prepared himself
a bed in the earth of about 2 feet deep and five long and was
perfectly alive when we found him which could not have been
less than 2 hours after he received the wound; these bear
being so hard to die reather intimedates us all; I must confess
that I do not like the gentlemen and had reather fight two
Indians than one bear; there is no other chance to conquer
them by a single shot but by shooting them through the
brains, and this becomes difficult in consequence of two large
muscles which cover the sides of the forehead and the sharp
projection of the center of the frontal bone, which is also of a
pretty good thickness. the flece and skin were as much as
two men could possibly carry. by the time we returned the
sun had set and I determined to remain here all night, and
directed the cooks to render the bear's oil and put it in the
kegs which was done. there was about eight gallons of it.

the wild Hysop grows here and in all the country through
which we have passed for many days past; tho' from big Dry
river to this place it has been more abundant than below, and
a smaller variety of it grows on the hills, the leaves of which
differ considerably being more deeply indented near it's extremity.
the buffaloe deer and Elk feed on this herb in the winter
season as they do also on the small willow of the sandbars.
there is another growth that begins now to make it's appearance
in the bottom lands and is becoming extreemly troublesome;
it is a shrub which rises to the hight of from two to
four feet, much branched, the bark of the trunk somewhat
rough hard and of light grey colour; the wood is firm and
stif, the branches beset with a great number of long, sha[r]p,
strong, woody looking thorns; the leaf is about 3/4 or an inch

long, and one 1/8 of an inch wide, it is obtuse, absolutely
entire, veinless fleshy and gibbose; has no perceptable taste or
smell, and no anamal appears to eat it by way of designating
when I mention it hereafter I shall call it the fleshey leafed
thorn.[11]

Courses and distances May 11th. 1805.

                       

South—	to the upper part of some high timber on the Lard. side passing over a sand po[i]nt Lard.	1 1/2
S. 50°. W.	to the upper part of the timber in a bend on Stard. side	1 1/2
South.	to the commencement of a wood on Stard. side, opposite to a Lard. point	3/4
S. 68°. E.	to the upper part of the timber in a bend on Lard. side, passing over a sand-bar from a Stard. point	1 3/4
S. 10°. E.	to the upper part of a sand-bar on the Stard. opposite to a bluff	1 1/2
S. 85°. W.	to some timber in the center of a bend on Stard. side, passing a sand point on Lard. at 3/4	2.
S. 10°. E.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side.	1.
S. 40°. E.	to the point of a sand-bar on Stard. oposite to a low bluf.	2 1/2
S. 80°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side, passing a point of woodland on Std. side at 1/2 a mile, a deep bend to the N.W.	1 1/4
S. 75°. W.	to a high bluff point in a bend on Stard. (S.W. from hence distant 3 Miles is a ridge of high lands covered with pine which is the first we have yet seen on the Missouri)	1.
S. 25°. E.	to the point of a sand-bar on the Stard. 1/2 below which we encamped on the Lard.	2 1/4
	Miles	17.

Point of Observation No. 16.

On the Lard. shore about the middle of the 4th. course of this day
observed equal altitudes of ☉ with Sext.

     

A. M.	8. 15. 33—	P. M. lost in con-	Altd. by
	″. 17. 7.5	sequence of the	Sextant
	″. 18. 43	intervention of clouds	58°. 41′. 30″.

Point of Observation No. 17.

On the Lard. shore at the middle of the 8th. course
of this day, observed Meridian altd. of ☉.

L. L. with Octant by the back observation 64°. 51′.

Latitude deduced from this observtn. [blank space in MS.]

[Clark:]

May the 11th. Saturday 1805

Wind hard fore part of last night the latter part verry cold
a white frost this morning, the river riseing a little and verry
crooked the high land is rugged and approaches nearer than
below, the hills and bluff[s] exhibit more mineral qua[r]ts
& salts than below, the gullies in maney places are white, and
their bottoms one, two & 3 Inches deep of this mineral, no
appearance of either burnt pumice stone or coal, the countrey
hilley on both sides, of a rich black earth, which disolves in
water. This kind of countrey continues of the Same quallity
for maney miles on either Side, we observed some hills which
appeared to be timbered, I walked to this timber and found
it to [be] pitch pine & Dwarf cedar. we observe in every
derection Buffalow, Elk, Antelopes & Mule Deer inumerable
and so jintle that we could approach near them with great ease,
I killed 2 Mule Deer for the benifit of their Skins for the
party, and about the place I expected the party would get to
camp I killed 2 fat Bulls for theire use, in my absence they
had killed a fine fat yellow bear below which detained them
and they did not reach the place I expected, but had camped
on the Lard Side about 2 miles below on my return to the
party I killed a fat Beaver the wind blew verry hard from the
S. W. all the after part of this day which retarded our progress
verry much. river rose 2 In.

Course & Distance the 11th. of May

                         

	miles
South	1 1/2	to the upper part of a high timber on the Stard Side passing over a sand point from the Ld Side
S. 50°. W.	1 1/2	to the upper part of the timber'd in a bend to the Stard Side.
South	3/4	to the Commencement of a wood on the Std. Side opsd. a point on L.S.
S. 68°. E.	1 3/4	to the uppar part of the timber in a bend on the Lard Side passing over a sand bar from Stard point
S. 10°. E.	1 1/2	to the upper part of a sand bar on the Stard Side opposit a Bluff
S. 85°. W.	2	to some timber in the center of a bend on the Stard Side passing a sand point on the Lard at 3/4 of a mile
S. 10°. E.	1	to a point of wood land on the Lard Side
S. 40° E.	2 1/2	to the point of a Sand bar on the Stard Side opposit a low bluff
S. 86° W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land on the Lard Side passing a pt of wood land on S. S. at 1/2 m. a Deep bend to N. W.
S. 75° W.	1	to a high bluff point in a bend to the Std Side S W 3 miles is a ridge of high land covered with pins which is the first we have seen on Missouri
S 25° E.	2 1/4	to the pt of a sand bar on the Stard 1/2 a mile below which, we encamped
miles	17

[Lewis:]

Sunday May 12th 1805.

Set out at an early hour, the weather clear and Calm: I
walked on shore this morning for the benefit of exersize which
I much wanted, and also to examine the country and it's productions,
in these excurtions I most generally went alone
armed with my rifle and espontoon; thus equiped I feel myself
more than an equal match for a brown bear provided I get him
in open woods or near the water, but feel myself a little diffident
with respect to an attack in the open plains, I have
therefore come to a resolution to act on the defencive only,
should I meet these gentlemen in the open country. I ascended
the hills and had a view of a rough and broken country on both
sides of the river; on the North side the summits of the hills
exhibit some scattering pine and cedar, on the South-side the
pine has not yet commenced tho' there is some cedar on the
face of the hills and in the little ravines. the choke cherry
also grows here in the hollows at the heads of the gullies;
the choke Cherry has been in blume since the ninth inst. this
growth has freequently made it's appearance on the Missouri

from the neighbourhood of the Bald pated Prarie, to this place.
in the form of it's leaf, colour and appearance of it's bark, and
general figure of it's growth it resembles much the Marillar
[Morello] cherry, tho' much smaller not generally rising to
a greater hight than from 6 to 10 feet and ascociating in thick
clusters on clumps in their favorit situations which is usually
the head of small ravines or along the sides of small brooks
which flow from the hills. the flowers which are small and
white are supported by a common footstalk as those of the
common wild cherry are, the corolla consists of five oval
petals, five stamen and one pistillum, and of course of the
Class and order Pentandria Monogynia. it bears a fruit which
much resembles the wild cherry in form and colour tho' larger
and better flavoured; it's fruit ripens about the begining of
July and continues on the trees untill the latter end of September.
The Indians of the Missouri make great uce of this
cherry which they prepare for food in various ways, sometimes
eating when first plucked from the trees or in that state pounding
them mashing the seed boiling them with roots or meat, or
with the prarie beans and white apple; again for their winter
store they geather them and lay them on skins to dry in the
sun, and frequently pound them and make them up in small
roles or cakes and dry them in the sun; when thus dryed they
fold them in skins or put them in bags of parchment and keep
them through the winter either eating them in this state or
boiling them as before mentioned. the bear and many birds
also feed on these burries. the wild hysop sage, fleshey leaf
thorn, and some other herbs also grow in the plains and hills,
particularly the arromatic herb on which the Antelope and
large hare feed. The soil has now changed it's texture considerably;
the base of the hills and river bottoms continue the
same and are composed of a rich black loam while the summits
of the hills and about half their hight downwards are of a light
brown colour, poor sterile and intermixed with a coarse white
sand. about 12 OClock the wind veered about to the N.W.
and blew so hard that we were obliged to Ly by the ballance
of the day. we saw great quantities of game as usual. the
bottom lands still becomeing narrower.

Courses and distances May 12th. 1805.

                         

S. 45° W.	to a point of high wood on the Stard. side passing a bluff on Lard. just above which a creek 20 yards wide falls in on Lard. Sd.	1.
S. 70°. W.	to a point of cottonwood on the Lard. Sd.	2 1/2
S. 30°. W.	to the upper part of a point on the Lard. Sd. opposite to a bluf on Stard. side	1/2
S. 22°. E.	to a white tree in a bend on Lard. side	2
S. 40°. W.	to a point on Stard. opposite to a bluff on Lard.	1 1/2
S. 60°. W.	to the upper part of a timbered bottom in a bend on Stard. side	2 1/2
S. 40°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side, opposite to which pine Creek falls in on Stard. side 20 Yds. wide, little water	1 3/4
S. 10°. E.	to a willow point on the Stard. side	1 1/2
S. 45°. W.	Along the Stard. side opposite to a bluff	1.
N. 54° W.	to some timber in the center of a bend Std.	1 1/2
S. 15°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side opposite to a bluff on Stard.	1.
S. 10°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side opposite to a high bluff, the river making a deep bend to the S. E. in which there is a willow Island, opposite to the lower point of which we encamped on the Lard. side	2.
	Miles—	18 3/4

About sunset it began to rain, and continued to fall a few
drops at a time untill midnight; the wind blew violently all
night.

[Clark:]

May 12th Sunday 1805

Set out at an early hour, the morning clear and calm, Capt
Lewis walked on Shore this morning about 12 oClock the
wind became strong from the E. about half past one oClock
the wind Shifted round to the N.W. and blew verry hard all
the latter part of the day, which obliged us to Lay by. The
countrey is hilley & rugged and the earth of a lightish brown
and but indifferent, some small cedar is scattered on the Sides
of the hils & in the hollars, some pine ridges is also to be seen

on the North Side, we observe great quantities of game as
usial. I killed a beaver on the water, Saw Several Sitting on
the bank near the waters edge

Course & Distance 12th. of May

                           

	mile
S. 45°. W.	1	to a point of high wood on the Stard Side passing a Bluff on the Ld Side above which a Creek 20 yds wide falls in L.S.
S. 70°. W.	2 1/2	to a point of cotton wood on the Lard Side
S. 30°. W.	1/2	to the upper part of the point on the Lard Side opposit a bluff S.S.
S. 22°. E.	2	to a white tree in a bend to the Ld. S.
S. 40°. W.	1 1/2	to the point on the Stard. Side opposit a Bluff on the L.S.
S. 60°. W.	2 1/2	to the upper part of a timberd bottom in a bend to the Std. Side
S. 40°. W.	1 3/4	to a point of wood land on the Lard Side, opposit to which Pine Creek falls in on the Stard Side 20 yards wide
S. 10°. E.	1 1/2	to a willow point on the Stad Side
S. 45°. W.	1	on the Stard Side opposit a Bluff
N. 54°. W.	1 1/2	to some timber in the center of the Stard Bend
S. 15°. W.	1	to a point of wood land on the Lard Side opposit a Bluff.
S. 10° W.	2	to a point of wood land on the Stard Side opposit a high Bluff on the Lard Side, the river makeing a deep bend to the S E in which there is a Willow Island, opposit the lower point of which we camped on the Lard Side
	18 3/4

about sunset it began to rain, and rained very moderately
only a fiew drops at a time for about half the night, wind
continued violent all night.

[Lewis:]

Monday May 13th 1805.

The wind continued to blow so violently this morning that
we did not think it prudent to set out. sent out some hunters.
At 1 P.M. the wind abated, and altho' the hunters had not all
returned we set out; the courant reather stronger than usual

and the water continues to become reather clearer, from both
which I anticipate a change of Country shortly. the country
much the same as yesterday; but little timber in the bottoms
and a scant proportion of pine an cedar crown the Stard. hills.
Capt C. who was on shore the greater part of the day killed a
mule and a Common deer, the party killed several deer and
some Elk principally for the benefit of their skins which are
necessary to them for cloathing, the Elk skins I now begin to
reserve for making the leather boat at the falls. the hunters
joined us this evening; Gibson had wounded a very large
brown bear but it was too late in the evening to pursue him.

Courses and distances May 13th. 1805.

         

S. 35°. W.	along the Stard. shore to a point of high timber opposite to a bluff, passing the entrance of two Creeks on Lard., 1st. 18. 2nd. 30 yards wide neither discharging any water at present	1 1/2
S. 50°. W.	Along the Stard. point opposite to a high blf.	1.
N. 75°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side	2
S. 80°. W.	Along the Lard. shore to a point of wood land near which we encamped on Lard. shore	2 1/2
	Miles.	7.

Point of Observation No. 18.

At our encampment of this evening on Lard. side Observed time and
distance of D's Western limb from Antares; *. East; with Sextant.

Mean of sundry Observations.

     

Time	Distance
h m s	° ′ ″
P.M. 11. 51. 18.4	39. 10. 30.

[Clark:]

13th of May Monday 1805.

The wind continued to blow hard untill one oClock P M. to
day at which time it fell a little and we set out and proceeded
on verry well about 9 miles and camped on the Lard Side. the
countrey much the same appearance as yesterday but little
timber in the bottoms, some Pine in places on the Stard. Hills.

I killed two deer this evening one a mule deer & the other a
common Deer, the party killed several this morning all for
the use of their Skins which are now good, one man Gibson
wounded a verry large brown bear, too late this evening to
prosue him. We passed two creeks in a bend to the Lard Side
neither [of] them had any water,

Course & Distance 13th. of May 1805

           

	miles
S. 35°. W.	1 1/2	along the Std. Shore to a point of high timber opposit a bluff, passing the enterence of two creeks on the L.S. neither of which discharge any water at this time. 1st. 18. 2d. 30 yds wide
S. 50°. W.	1	along the Std. point oppsd. a high bluff
N. 75°. W.	2	to a point of wood land on the Lard. Side
S. 80°. W	2 1/2	along the Lard Shore to a point of wood land near which we incamped on the Lard Side
miles	7

[Lewis:]

Tuesday May 14th. 1805.

Some fog on the river this morning, which is a very rare
occurrence; the country much as it was yesterday with this
difference that the bottoms are somewhat wider; passed some
high black bluffs. saw immence herds of buffaloe today also
Elk deer wolves and Antelopes. passed three large creeks one
on the Stard. and two others on the Lard. side, neither of which
had any runing water. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed
a very fine buffaloe cow. I felt an inclination to eat some
veal and walked on shore and killed a very fine buffaloe calf
and a large woolf, much the whitest I had seen, it was quite as
white as the wool of the common sheep. one of the party
wounded a brown bear very badly, but being alone did not
think proper to pursue him. In the evening the men in two
of the rear canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the
open grounds about 300 paces from the river, and six of them
went out to attack him, all good hunters; they took the advantage
of a small eminence which concealed them and got
within 40 paces of him unperceived, two of them reserved
their fires as had been previously conscerted, the four others

fired nearly at the same time and put each his bullet through
him, two of the balls passed through the bulk of both lobes of
his lungs, in an instant this monster ran at them with open
mouth, the two who had reserved their fir[e]s discharged their
pieces at him as he came towards them, boath of them struck
him, one only slightly and the other fortunately broke his
shoulder, this however only retarded his motion for a moment
only, the men unable to reload their guns took to flight, the
bear pursued and had very nearly overtaken them before they
reached the river; two of the party betook themselves to a
canoe and the others seperated an[d] concealed themselves
among the willows, reloaded their pieces, each discharged his
piece at him as they had an opportunity they struck him
several times again but the guns served only to direct the bear
to them, in this manner he pursued two of them seperately
so close that they were obliged to throw aside their guns and
pouches and throw themselves into the river altho' the bank
was nearly twenty feet perpendicular; so enraged was this
anamal that he plunged into the river only a few feet behind
the second man he had compelled [to] take refuge in the
water, when one of those who still remained on shore shot him
through the head and finally killed him; they then took him
on shore and butch[er]ed him when they found eight balls
had passed through him in different directions; the bear
being old the flesh was indifferent, they therefore only took
the skin and fleece, the latter made us several gallons of oil;
it was after the sun had set before these men come up with
us, where we had been halted by an occurrence, which I have
now to recappitulate, and which altho' happily passed without
ruinous injury, I cannot recollect but with the utmost trepidation
and horror; this is the upseting and narrow escape of the
white perogue. It happened unfortunately for us this evening
that Charbono was at the helm of this Perogue, in stead of
Drewyer, who had previously steered her; Charbono cannot
swim and is perhaps the most timid waterman in the world;
perhaps it was equally unluckey that Capt. C. and myself were
both on shore at that moment, a circumstance which rarely
happened; and tho' we were on the shore opposite to the
perogue, were too far distant to be heard or to do more than
remain spectators of her fate; in this perogue were embarked,
our papers, Instruments, books medicine, a great part of our
merchandize and in short almost every article indispensibly
necessary to further the views, or insure the success of the
enterprize in which we are now launched to the distance of
2200 miles. surfice it to say, that the Perogue was under sail
when a sudon squawl of wind struck her obliquely, and turned
her considerably, the steersman allarmed, in stead of puting,
her before the wind, lufted her up into it, the wind was so
violent that it drew the brace of the squarsail out of the hand
of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the
perogue and would have turned her completely topsaturva,
had it not have been from the resistance mad[e] by the oarning
[awning] against the water; in this situation Capt. C. and
myself both fired our guns to attract the attention if possible
of the crew and ordered the halyards to be cut and the sail
hawled in, but they did not hear us; such was their confusion
and consternation at this moment, that they suffered the
perogue to lye on her side for half a minute before they took
the sail in, the perogue then wrighted but had filled within an
inch of the gunwals; Charbono still crying to his god for
mercy, had not yet recollected the rudder, nor could the repeated
orders of the Bowsman, Cruzat, bring him to his recollection
untill he threatend to shoot him instantly if he did not
take hold of the rudder and do his duty, the waves by this
time were runing very high, but the fortitude resolution and
good conduct of Cruzat saved her; he ordered 2 of the men
to throw out the water with some kettles that fortunately were
convenient, while himself and two others rowed her as[h]ore,
where she arrived scarcely above the water; we now took
every article out of her and lay them to drane as well as we
could for the evening, baled out the canoe and secured her.
there were two other men beside Charbono on board who
could not swim, and who of course must also have perished
had the perogue gone to the bottom. while the perogue lay
on her side, finding I could not be heard, I for a moment forgot
my own situation, and involluntarily droped my gun, threw
aside my shot pouch and was in the act of unbuttoning my
coat, before I recollected the folly of the attempt I was about
to make; which was to throw myself into the river and inde[a]vour
to swim to the perogue; the perogue was three
hundred yards distant the waves so high that a perogue could
scarcely live in any situation, the water excessively could, and
the stream rappid; had I undertaken this project therefore,
there was a hundred to one but what I should have paid the
forfit of my life for the madness of my project, but this had
the perogue been lost, I should have valued but little. After
having all matters arranged for the evening as well as the
nature of circumstances would permit, we thought it a proper
occasion to console ourselves and cheer the sperits of our men
and accordingly took a drink of grog and gave each man a gill
of sperits.

Courses and distances of May 14th. 1805.

                 

S. 55°. W.	Along the Stard. side, water swift	1.
S. 35°. W.	Along the Lard. side, opposite the lower point of an Island in a bend on Stard.	½
S. 20°. W.	Along the Lard. side passing the head of an Island opposite to which a large creek falls in on the Stard. side, or Gibson's Creek.	½
S. 12°. E.	to a point of timber on the Stard. side opposite to a high hill on Lard.	3.
S. 20°. W.	to a point of timbered land on the Stard. side, a bluff point of rocks on Lard. passing a creek on Lard. called Stick Lodge C.	2 ½
S. 80°. W.	to a point of timbered land on the Lard. passing a point of woodland Stard. at 1. M.	3
S. 85°. W.	to a point of timbered land on the Lard. passing a large dry creek Lard. the Brown bear defeat.	2 ½
S. 62°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side at which place our perogue had very nearly been lost	3 ½
	Miles	16 ½

[Clark:]

14th. of May Tuesday 1805

A verry clear cold morning a white frost & some fog on the
river the Thermomt. stood at 32 above 0, wind from the

S.W. we proceeded on verry well untill about 6 oClock a
squawl of wind Struck our Sale broad side and turned the
perogue nearly over, and in this Situation the Perogue remained
untill the Sale was cut down in which time she nearly
filed with water. the articles which floated out was nearly all
caught by the Squar who was in the rear. This accident had
like to have cost us deerly; for in this perogue were embarked
our papers, Instruments, books, medicine, a great proportion
of our merchandize, and in short almost every article indispensibly
necessary to further the views, an insure the success
of the enterprize in which, we are now launched to the distance
of 2,200 miles. it happened unfortunately that Capt. Lewis
and myself were both on shore at the time of this occurrence,
a circumstance which seldom took place; and tho' we were on
the shore opposit to the perogue were too far distant to be
heard or do more than remain spectators of her fate; we discharged
our guns with the hope of attracting the attention of
the crew and ordered the sail to be taken in but such was their
consternation and confusion at the instant that they did not
hear us. when however they at length took in the sail and
the perogue wrighted; the boatman Cruzatte by repeated
threats so far brought Charbono the stersman to his recollection
that he did his duty while two hands bailed the perogue
and Cruzatte and two others rowed her on shore were she
arrived scarcely above the water. we owe the preservation of
the perogue to the resolution and fortitude of Cruzatte.[12]
the countrey like that of yesterday, passed a Small Island
and the enterence of 3 large Creeks, one on the Stard. & the
other 2 on the Lard Side, nether of them had any running
water at this time. Six good hunters of the party fired at a
Brown or Yellow Bear several times before they killed him, &
indeed he had like to have defeated the whole party, he pursued
them seperately as they fired on him, and was near catching
several of them one he pursued into the river, this bear
was large & fat would way about 500lbs; I killed a Buffalow,
& Capt Lewis a Calf & a wolf this evening

Course & Distance May 14th. 1805

                   

	mile
S. 55°. W.	1	on the Lard Side swift water
S. 35°. W	1/2	allong the Lard Side opsd. the lower point of an 1sd. in a bind to Std. Side.
S. 20°. W.	1/2	allong the Lard Side passed the hd of the 1sd. opsd. to which a large creek falls in on the Std Side. Gibson Creek
S. 12°. E.	3	to a point of timber on the Std. Side high hills on the Lard Side
S. 20°. W	2 1/2	to a point of timbered land on the Std Side, a bluff on Lard Side
S. 80°. W	3	to a point of timbered land on the Lard. Side, passd. a point of wood land on the Std Side at 1 mile
S. 85°. W	2 1/2	to a point of timbered land on Lard. sd Passd. Yellow Bear Defeat creek 40 yds wide
S. 62°. W	3 1/2	to a point of wood land on the Stard Side, at which place one perogue like to have been lost & we camped
	16 1/2

[Lewis:]

Wednesday May 15th.

as soon as a slight shower of rain passed over this morning,
we spread the articles to dry which had got wet yesterday in
the white perogue; tho' the day proved so cloudy and damp
that they received but little benifit from the sun or air; we
were inabled to put them in such a state as to prevent their
sustaining further injury. our hunters killed several deer, and
saw three bear one of which they wounded.

[Clark:]

May 15th. Wednesday 1805

Our medisons, Instruments, merchandize, clothes provisions
&c. &c. which was nearly all wet we had put out to air and dry,
the day being cloudy & rainey those articles dried but little to
day. our hunters killed several deer &c. and saw three Bear
one of which they wounded &c.

We see Buffalow on the banks dead, others floating down
dead, and others mired every day, those buffalow either
drown in swiming the river or brake thro' the ice

[Lewis:]

Thursday May 16th.

The morning was fair and the day proved favorable to our
operations; by 4 oClock in the evening our Instruments,
Medicine, merchandize provision &c, were perfectly dryed,
repacked and put on board the perogue. the loss we sustained
was not so great as we had at first apprehended; our medicine
sustained the greatest injury, several articles of which were
intirely spoiled, and many others considerably injured, the
ballance of our losses consisted of some gardin seeds, a small
quantity of gunpowder, and a few culinary articles which fell
overboard and sunk. the Indian woman to whom I ascribe
equal fortitude and resolution, with any person onboard at the
time of the accedent, caught and preserved most of the light
articles which were washed overboard. all matters being now
arranged for our departure we lost no time in seting out; proceeded
on tolerably well about seven miles and encamped on
the Stard. side. in the early part of the day two of our men
fired on a panther, a little below our encampment, and wounded
it; they informed us that it was very large, had just killed a
deer partly devoured it, and in the act of concealing the ballance
as they discovered him. we caught two Antelopes at our
encampment in attempting to swim the river; these anamals
are but lean as yet, and of course not very pleasant food. I
walked on shore this evening and killed a buffaloe cow and
calf, we found the calf most excellent veal. the country on
either side of the river is broken and hills much higher than
usual; the bottoms now become narrow and the timber more
scant; some scattering pine and cedar on the steep declivities
of the hills. this morning a white bear toar Labuiche's coat
which he had left in the plains.

Courses and distances May 16th.

     

S. 80°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side passing a low bluff on Stard	2 1/2
S. 70°. W.	to a point of woodland on Stard. near which we encamped for the night	4 1/2
	Miles.	7.

Point of observation No. 19.  May 16th 1805.

at our encampment of this morning on the Star.d side
which we called Panther camp observed Meridian Altitude
of ☉'s. L. L. with Octant by the back observation 62 3—

Latitude deduced from this observation.  [blank space in MS.]

[Clark:]

May 16th. Thursday 1805

a fair morning our articles all out to Dry at 4 oClock we
had every thing that was saved dry and on bord, our loss is
some medison, Powder, Seeds, & Several articles which sunk,
and maney Spoiled had a medn. altitude which gave for
Latd ° ′ ″ ″ N.[13] two of our men fired at a panther a little
below our camp, this animale they say was large, had caught
a Deer & eate it half & buried the ballance. a fine antilope
Swam the river near our camp two of them were cought by
the party in the river. at half past 4 oClock we set out and
proceeded on verry well [blank space in MS.] miles and
incamped on the Std. Side the countrey as before hilley &
broken verry small proportion of timber in the points, some
little pine & Ceader in the hills

Course and distance May 16th.

     

S. 80°. W	2 1/2	miles to a point of wood land on the Lard Side passing a low bluff on the Std Side
S. 70°. W	4 1/2	miles to a wood point on the Stard Side
	7

Buffalow & Deer is yet plenty on the river in the small
timbered bottoms Capt Lewis walked out on the Std Side and
killed a cow & calf the calf was verry fine

[Lewis:]

Friday May 17th.

Set out at an early hour, and proceeded on very well; we
employed the toe line the greater part of the day; the banks
were firm and shore boald which favoured the uce of the cord.

I find this method of asscending the river, when the shore is
such as will permit it, the safest and most expeditious mode of
traveling, except with sails in a steady and favourable breze.
The country rugged, the hills high, their summits and sides
partially covered with pine and cedar, and the river on either
side washing their bases.[14] it is somewhat singular that the
lower part of these hills appear to be formed of a dark rich
loam while the upper region about 150 feet is formed of a
whiteish brown sand, so hard in many parts as to resemble
stone; but little rock or stone of any kind to be seen in these
hills. the river is much narrower than usual, the bed from
200 to 300 yards only and possessing a much larger proportion
of gravel than usual. a few scattering cottonwood trees are
the only timber near the river; the sandbars, and with them
the willow points have almost entirely disappeared. greater
appearance than usual of the saline incrustations of the banks
and river hills. we passed two creeks, the one on Stard. side,
and the other just below our camp on the Lard. side; each
of these creeks afford a small quantity of runing water, of a
brackish tast[e]. the great number of large beds of streams
perfectly dry which we daily pass indicate a country but badly
watered, which I fear is the case with the country through
which we have been passing for the last fifteen or twenty days.
Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening and killed an Elk;
buffaloe are not so abundant as they were some days past.
the party with me killed a female brown bear, she was but
meagre, and appeared to have suckled young very recently.
Capt. Clark narrowly escaped being bitten by a rattlesnake in
the course of his walk, the party killed one this evening at our
encampment, which he informed me was similar to that he had
seen; this snake is smaller than those common to the middle
Atlantic States, being about 2 feet 6 inches long;[15] it is of a
yellowish brown colour on the back and sides, variagated with
one row of oval spots of a dark brown colour lying transversely
over the back from the neck to the tail, and two other
rows of small circular spots of the same colour which garnis
the sides along the edge of the scuta. it's bely contains 176
[s]cuta on the belly and 17 on the tale. Capt Clark informed
me that he saw some coal which had been brought down by
the water of the last creek we passed; this creek also throws
out considerable quantities of Drift-wood, though there is no
timber on it which can be perceived from the Missouri; we
called this stream rattlesnake creek. Capt Clark saw an
Indian fortifyed camp this evening, which appeared to have
been recently occupyed, from which we concluded it was probable
that it had been formed by a war party of the Menetares
who left their vilage in March last with a view to attack the
blackfoot Indians in consequence of their having killed some
of their principal warriors the previous autumn. we were
roused late at night by the Sergt. of the guard, and warned
of the danger we were in from a large tree that had taken
fire and which leant immediately over our lodge. we had the
loge removed, and a few minutes after a large proportion of
the top of the tree fell on the place the lodge had stood; had
we been a few minutes later we should have been crushed to
attoms. the wind blew so hard, that notwithstanding the
lodge was fifty paces distant from the fire it sustained considerable
injury from the burning coals which were thrown on it;
the party were much harrassed also by this fire which communicated
to a collection of fallen timber, and could not be
extinguished.

Cou[r]ses and distances, May 17th.

                                             

		Miles
S. 70°. W.	to a point of woodland on Stard. side.	1. 1/2
S. 75°. W.	to a point of woods on Stard. side	2.
W.	along the Stard. point.	1. 1/2
N. 70. W.	to a point of woods on the Lard. side the hills approach the river on each side	2.
S. 80. W.	to a point of timber on the Stard. side oppoite the entrance of a small creek	3. 1/2
N. 82. W.	to a clump of trees on the Lard. side	2.
West.	along the Lard. side to a point opposite to the entrance of a large creek.	1.
S. 70. W.	along the highland on the Lard. side	1. 1/2
S. 50. W.	along the Lard. side	1/4
S. 30. W.	along the Lard. side	1/4
S. 10. W.	along the Lard. side	1/4
South.	along the Lard. side	1/4
S. 15. E.	along the Lard. side	1/4
S. 30. E.	along the Lard. side	1/2
S. 35. E.	along the Lard. side, to the commencement of a bluff in a Lard. bend.	1/4
S. 2. W.	to a point of timber on the Stard. side, opposite to a bluff	1/2
S. 45. W.	to a point of timber on the Lard. side.	1/2
S. 20. E.	to a point of timber on the Stard. side.	1/4
South.	along the Stard. point	3/4
S. 15. W.	along the Stard. point, passing the entrance of a large creek on Lard. side.	1/4
S. 80. W.	to a point of woodland on Lard. side, passing a bluff on Lard. side; here we encamped	1. 1/4
	Miles	20 1/2

[Clark:]

May 17th. Friday 1805

a fine morning wind from the N W. mercury at 60° a 0.
river falling a little. We set out at an early hour and proceeded
on verry well by the assistance of the Toe rope principally,
the countrey verry rugged & hills high and the river washing
the bace on each side, great appearances of the Salt substance.
a fiew cotton trees is the only timber which is scattered in the
bottom & the hills contain a fiew Pine & cedar, which is scattered,
river much narrower than below from 2 to 300 yards
wide, the bottoms muddey & hills rich earth except near their
tops. We passed 2 large creeks to day one on the Starbd Side
and the other just below our camp on the Lard Side each of
those creeks has a little running water near their mouthes which
has a brackish taste, I was nearly treading on a small fierce
rattle snake different from any I had ever seen &c. one man [of]
the party killed another of the same kind. I walked on Shore
after dinner & killed an Elk. the party in my absence killed
a female Brown or Yellow Bear which was meagre the appearances
of the Hills & countrey is as before mentioned except a
greater appearance of the white appearances of salts or tarter

and some coal which has been thrown out by the floods in the
last creek. Buffalow & Deer is not plenty to day. Elk is yet
to be seen in abundance we camped in the upper part of a
small timbered bottom on the Lard. Side in which I saw a fortified
Indian camp, which I suppose is one of the camps of a
Minetarre war party of about 15 men, that set out from their
village in March last to war against the Blackfoot Indians.

We were roused late at night and warned of the danger of
fire from a tree which had cought and leaned over our Lodge,
we had the lodge moved soon after the Dry limbs & top of the
tree fell in the place the lodge stood, the wind blew hard and
the dry wood cought & fire flew in every direction, burnt our
Lodge verry much from the coals which fell on it altho at some
distance in the plain, the whole party were much disturbed by
this fire which could not be extinguished &c

Course & Distance May 17th. 1805

                                           

S. 70°. W	1 ½	miles to a wooded point on the Std. Side
S. 75°. W	2	miles to a wood on the Stard. Side
West	1 1/2	miles allong the Stard point
N. 70°. W.	2	miles to a point of wood on the Lard. Side the hills approach the river on each side
S. 80°. W	3 1/2	to a point of timber on the Stard Side opposit the enterence of a small creek on the Lard Side Brattens Creek
N. 82°. W.	2	miles to a fiew trees on the Lard pt.
West	1	mile along the Lard Side to a point opposit the enterence of a large creek on the Stard. Side, but fiew cotton trees in the small bottoms and a fiew scattering pine & cedar on the tops & sides of the hills &c. I saw a Morking bird
S 70°. W.	1 ½	under the high land on the Lard Side
S. 50°. W.	1/4	allong the Larboard Side
S. 30°. W.	1/4	allong the Lard. Side
S. 10°. W.	1/4	allong the Lard. Side
South	1/4	allong the Lard. Side
S. 15°. E.	1/4	allong the Lard. Side
S. 30°. E.	1/2	allong the Lard. Side
S. 35°. E.	1/4	allong the Lard. Side to the commencement of a Bluff in a Lard. bend
S. 2°. W	1/2	to a point of timber on the Stard. Side opposit to a Bluff on the Lard Side
S. 45°. W	1/2	to a point of timber on the Lard. Side
S. 20°. E.	1/4	to a point of timber on the Stard. Side
South	3/4	allong the Stard. point
S. 15°. W.	1/4	allong the Stard. point passed the enterence of a large creek on the Lard Side
S. 80°. W	1 1/4	to a point of wood land on the Lard. Side passing a bluff on the Lard Side here we incamped for the night
	20 1/2

[Lewis:]

Saturday May 18th. 1805.

The wind blew hard this morning from the West. we were
enabled to employ our toe line the greater part of the day and
therefore proceeded on tolerably well. there are now but few
sandbars, the river is narrow and current gentle. the timber
consists of a few cottonwood trees along the verge of the river;
the willow has in a great measure disappeared. in the latter
part of the day the hills widened, the bottoms became larger,
and contained more timber. we passed a [Wisers—inserted
in pencil] creek on the Stard. side about three oclock, which
afforded no water;[16] came too and encamped on the Lard. side
opposite to the lower point of a small Island, two miles short
of the extremity of the last course of this day. Capt Clark in
the course of his walk this evening killed four deer, two of
which were the black tailed or mule deer; the skins are now
good, they have not yet produced their young. we saw a
number of buffaloe, Elk, deer and Antelopes. the saline substance
frequently mentioned continues to appear as usual.

Courses and distances 18th. of May.

                                     

		Miles.
S. 66° W.	to a point of wood on the Stard. side, opposite to a high irregular hill on Lard. side	.3/4
N. 80. W.	along the Stard. side oposite a bluff	.1/2
N. 45. W.	to a clump of trees on a Lard. point, opposite a high rugged bluff	1.1/2
S. 80. W.	to a point of timber on the Lard. side	1.1/2
S. 60. W.	to a point of timber on the Stard. side oposite a bluff	.1/2
S. 85°. W.	to a point on Lard. side	2.
S. 60. W.	along the Lard. shore.	.1/2
South.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side oposite a bluff	1.1/4
S. 45. W.	along the Stard. point, to the extremity of a sandbar, oposite a bluff.	.1/2
N. 20. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side the river making a deep bend to the N.	2.
N. 55. W.	to a large tree in the center of a Stard. bend.	1.
S. 70. W.	to the point of a sandbar on the Lard. side, passing the entrance of a Creek on Stard. at 1/2 a mile	1.1/4
S. 20. W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side	1.1/2
S. 35. W.	along the Stard. side opposite a bluff	1/2
N. 85. W.	to a point of woodland Lard. side the river making a deep bend to N. under a bluff.	2 1/4
S. 60. W.	along the Lard. point	1/2
S. 5. W.	to a timbered point on Stard. side, passing a small Island, 3/4 of a mile in length, commencing at 1. mile. oposite to the lower point of this island on the Lard. side we encamped.	3.
	Miles	21.

[Clark:]

May 18th. Satturday 1805

A windey morning wind from the West we proceeded
on verry well with the assistance of the Toe Coard, river
narrow but fiew Sand bars, & current jentle, but a few cotton
Trees contained in the bottoms willow is not common on
the bears [bars] as usial some little on the sides of the river
is yet to be seen, the after part of the day was cloudy & at
about 12 oClock it began to rain and continued moderately
for about 1 1/2 hours, not sufficient to wet a man thro' his
clothes, this is the first rain since we set out this spring
The hills widen and the bottoms contain more timber than
for Several days past, we passed a creek (Wisers) on the
Std. Side about 3 oClock and camped on the Lard Side opposit
the lower point of a handsom little Island near the middle
of the river. I walked on shore and killed four Deer, 2 common
& 2 mule deer, one of which had 3 fauns, 2 others had

2 each, those deer are fat, & their skins tolerable good, which
are now in demand with us for clothes Such as Legins &
Mockersons, I saw great numbers of Buffalows & Elk, some
of the party shoot & catch beaver every day & night

Course & Distance 18th. of May

                                     

	miles
S. 66°. W.	3/4	to a point of wood on the Stard. Side opposit a high uneavin hill L.S.
N. 80°. W.	1/2	allong the Stard. Side opposit a bluff
N. 45°. W.	1 1/2	to a fiew trees on a point on the Lard. Side opposit a rugged bluff
S. 80°. W.	1 1/2	to a point of timber on the Lard. Side
S. 60°. W.	1/2	to a point of timber on the Stard Side oppisit to a Bluff on the L.S.
S. 85°. W.	2	to a point on the Lard Side
S. 60°. W	1/2	allong the Lard Shore
South	1 1/4	to a point of wood land on the Std. Side opposit a Bluff
S. 45°. W.	1/2	allong the Stard point to the extremity of a sand bar, opposit a low bluff
N. 20°. W.	2	to a point of wood land on the Lard Side the river makeing a deep bend to the North
N. 55°. W.	1	to a large tree in the center of the bend on the Stard. Side
S. 70°. W.	1 1/4	to the point of a sand bar on the Lard Side passing the enterence of a Creek Wisers on S.S. at 1/2 m.
S. 20°. W	1 1/2	to a point of wood land on the Stard. Side
S. 35°. W.	1/2	allong the Stard. point opposit a bluff L.S.
N. 85°. W	2 1/4	to a point of wood land Lard Side the river makeing a deep bend to the N. undr a bluff
S. 60°. W	1/2	allong the Lard point.
S. 5°. W.	3	to a timbered point on the Stard. Side, passing a small Island 3/4 of a mile in length, comeng. at 1 mile.
miles	21	opposit to the lower point of this Island on the Lard Side we camped.

[Lewis:]

Sunday May 19th. 1805.

The last night was disagreeably could; we were unable to
set out untill 8 oclock A.M. in consequence of a heavy fogg,
which obscured the river in such a manner that we could not

see our way; this is the first we have experienced in any
thing like so great a degree; there was also a fall of due
[dew] last evening, which is the second we have experienced
since we have entered this extensive open country. at eight
we set out and proceeded as yesterday by means of the cord
principally, the hills are high and the country similar to that
of yesterday. Capt Clark walked on shore with two of the
hunters and killed a brown bear; notwithstanding that it was
shot through the heart it ran at it's usual pace near a quarter
of a mile before it fell. one of the party wounded a beaver,
and my dog as usual swam in to catch it; the beaver bit him
through the hind leg and cut the artery; it was with great
difficulty that I could stop the blood; I fear it will yet prove
fatal to him. on Capt. Clark's return he informed me that
he had from the top of one of the adjacent hights, discovered
the entrance of a large stream which discharged itself into the
Missouri on the Lard. side distant 6 or seven miles; from the
same place he also saw a range of Mountains, bearing W. distant
40 or 50 Miles; they appeared to proceed in a S.S.W. direction;
the N.N.E. extremity of these mountains appeared abrupt.[17]

This afternoon the river was croked, rappid and containing
more sawyers than we have seen in the same space since we
left the entrance of the river Platte. Capt. C. in the course
of his walk killed three deer and a beaver, I also walked
on shore this evening a few miles and killed an Elk, a buck,
and a beaver. the party killed and caught 4 other beaver &
3 deer.

Courses and distances May 19th. 1805.

                                   

S. 35°. W.	To a point of woodland on the Lard. side opposite to a bluff	1 1/4
South.	To a point of timber on the Stard. side opposite high hills on Lard. side	1 1/2
S. 75°. W.	To a point of woodland on Lard. side opposite to a bluff on Stard.	1.
S. 20°. W.	To a willow point on Stard. side the river making a deep bend to the E.	1 1/2
S. 30°. E.	Along the Stard. opposite to a bluff	1.
S. 60°. E.	To a point of woodland Stard. side opposite to a bluff.	2 1/2
West.	Along the Lard. shore opposite to a bluff	3/4
S. 60°. W.	Along the Lard. shore opposite to a bluff	1/2
S. 15°. W.	To a point of woodland on Stard. side opposite to a bluff a deep bend to the South	3.
S. 20°. W.	To a point on the Lard. side.	1 1/2
S. 45°. W.	To a point of high timber on the Lard. opposite to a bluff	3/4
South.	To a point of willows on the Stard. Sid.	1 3/4
West.	To a point of low willows on the Lard. side opposite to the lower point of a willow Island St. Side	1 1/2
S. 45°. W.	Along the Lard. point opposite to the upper point of the Island; a bluff on the Stard. side	1/2
S. 10°. E.	Along the Lard. point opposite to a bluff, under which is a shoal Stard. S., rappid water	1/4
N. 45°. E.	To the point of a sandbar on the Stard. side passing remarkable strong water.	1/2
S. 45°. E.	To the timber on the Stard. point, opposite to a bluff on Lard. where we encamped for the night.	1/2
	Miles	20.1/4

The men complain much of sore eyes and imposthumes.

[Clark:]

May 19th. Sunday 1805

a verry cold night, the murckery stood at 38 at 8 oClock
this morning, a heavy dew which is the 2d. I have seen this
spring. The fog (which was the first) was so thick this morning
that we could not Set out untill the Sun was about 2
hours up, at which time a small breeze sprung up from the
E which cleared off the fog & we proceeded on by means of
the Cord The hills are high & rugged the countrey as yesterday.
I walked on Shore with two men we killed a white or
grey bear; not withstanding that it was Shot through the
heart it ran at it's usial pace near a quarter of a mile before it
fell. Capt Lewis's dog was badly bitten by a wounded beaver
and was near bleading to death, after killing the Bear I continued
my walk alone, & killed 3 Deer & a Beaver finding
that the Perogues were below I assended the highest hill I
could see, from the top of which I saw the mouth of M.

Shell R & the meanderings of the Missouri for a long distance.
I also saw a high mountain in a westerley direction, bearing
S.S.W. about 40 or 50 miles distant, in the evening the river
was verry crooked and much more rapid & containing more
sawyers than any which we have passed above the River Platte
Capt Lewis walked on Shore this after noon & killed an Elk,
Buck & a Beaver, I kiled three Deer at dinner, the hunters
killed three other Deer to day several beaver also killed. We
camped on the Stard Side in a bottom of small cotton wood

Course & Distance May 19th.

                                     

	miles
S. 35°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land on the Lard Side opposit to a Bluff. S.S.
South	1 1/2	to a point of timber on the Stard. Side opposit High hills on the Lard Side.
S. 75°. W.	1	to a point of wood land on the Lard. Side opposit to a Bluff
S. 20°. W.	1 1/2	to a willow point on the Std. Side the river makeing a deep bend to the E.
S. 30°. W.	1	allong the Stard. Side opsd. a Bluff
S. 60°. W	2 1/2	to a point of wood land Stard. Side opposit to a Bluff
West	3/4	allong the Lard Shore opsd. to a bluff
S. 60°. W	1/2	allong the Lard Point opposit to a bluff
S. 15°. W.	3	to a point of wood land on the Stard Side opsd. a bluff a Deep bend to the South
S. 20°. W.	1 1/2	to a point on the Lard Side
S. 45°. W.	3/4	to a point of high timber on the Ld. Side opposit to a bluff
South	1 3/4	to a point of willows on the Stard. Side
West	1 1/2	to a point of low willows on the Lard. Side opsd. the lower point of a willow Island S.S.
S. 45°. W.	1/2	allong the Lard point, opsd. the upper point of the Island, a Bluff on the Std Side
S 10°. E.	1/4	allong the Lard. point opsd. to a Bluff, under which is a shoal S.S. rapid water
N. 45°. E.	1/2	to the point of a sand bar on the Stard. Side passing swift water
S. 45°.	1/2	to the timber on the Stard point opposit to a Bluff on Lard. here we camped for the night.
miles	20 1/4

[Lewis:]

Monday May 20th. 1805.

Set out at an early hour as usual, the banks being favourable
and water strong we employed the toe rope principally;
river narrow and croked; country much as that of yesterday;
immence number of the prickley pears in the plains and on the
hills. At the distance of 2 1/4 miles passed the entrance of a
large Creek, affording but little water; this stream we named
Blowing Fly Creek, from the immence quantities of those insects
found in this neighbourhood, they infest our meat while
roasting or boiling, and we are obliged to brush them off our
provision as we eat. At 11. A.M. we arrived at the entrance
of a handsome bold river which discharges itself into the Missouri
on the Lard. side; this stream we take to be that called
by the Minnetares the [blank space in MS.[18] ] or Muscleshell
River; if it be the same, of which I entertain but little doubt,
it takes it's rise, by their information in the 1st. Chain of the
Rocky Mountains at no great distance from the Yellow stone
river, from whence in it's course to this place it passes through
a high and broken country pretty well timbered, particularly on
it's borders, and intersperced with handsome fertile plains and
medows. but from the circumstance of the same Indians informing
us that we should find a well timbered country in the
neighbourhood of it's mouth, I am induced to beleive that
the timbered country of which they speak is similar to that
we have passed for a day or two, or that in our view above,
which consists of nothing more than a few scattering small
scrubby pine and dwarf cedar on the summits of some of the
highest hills nine tenths of the country being wholy destitute
of timber of any kind, covered with a short grass, arromatic
herbs and the prickley pear; the river bottom however, so
far as we have explored it or 8 M. are well stocked with Cottonwood
timber of tollerable size, & lands of excellent quality.
We halted at thentrance of the river on the point formed
by it's junction with the Missouri determining to spend the
day, make the necessary observations and send out some hunters
to explore the country. The Muscle Shell river falls into

the Missouri 2270 miles above it's mouth, and is 110 yards
in width, it affords much more water than streams of it's width
generally do below, it's courant is by no means rappid, and
from appearances it might be navigated with canoes a considerable
distance; it's bed is coarse sand and gravel principally
with an occasion[al] mixture of black mud; it's banks abbrupt
and about 12 feet high yet never appear to overflow;
the waters of this river is of a greenish yellow cast, much more
transparent than the Missouri, which last is also much more
transparent than below but still retains it's whiteish hue and
a proportion of it's sedement. the Missouri opposite to this
point is deep, gentle in it's courant, and 222 yards in width.
The hunters returned this evening and informed us that the
country continued much the same in appearance as that we
saw where we were or broken, and that about five miles abe
(above) the mouth of shell river a handsome river of about
fifty yards in width discharged itself into the shell river on the
Stard. or upper side; this stream we called Sâh-câ-ger we-âh
(Sah ca gah we a) or bird woman's River,[19] after our interpreter
the Snake woman. Shields also found a bould spring or
fountain issuing from the foot of the Lar.d hills about 4 miles
up the Missouri; a fountain in this plain country is a great
novelty; I have not seen a bould fountain of pure water except
one since I left the Mandans; there (are) a number of
small ones but all without exception are impregnated with the
salts which abound in this country, and with which I believe
the Missoury itself considerably impregnated but to us in the
habit of useing it not perceptible; the exception I make is a
very fine fountain under the bluffs on the Lard. side of the
missouri and at a distance from the river about five miles below
the entrance of the yellowstone River. The sands of the
Missouri are not so abundant as they have been for some time
past, being confined to the points only; the bed of the river
principally mud and still too deep to use the seting pole.
Capt. Clark walked out today and killed two deer and an Elk,
the hunters killed 4 deer and elk and a buffaloe. I saw two
large Owls with remarkable long feathers on the sides of the
head which resembled ears; I take them to be the large hooting
Owl tho: they are somewhat larger and their colours
brighter than those common to the U. States.

Courses and distances of May 20th. 1805.

                 

South-	Along the Stard. side to the upper part of a bluff (bad water)	1/2
S. 70°. E.	to a sand point on the Stard. side	1.
S. 20°. W.	to some timber on a Stard. point	1/2
S. 10°. E.	to the entrance of a large creek on Lard. 25 yds. wide, called blowing Fly Ck.	1/4
South.	to a point of timber on the Lard. side opposite to a bluff on Stard. side	1 1/4
S. 30. E.	to a willow point on the Stard. side opposite to a bluff on Lard. side	1 1/4
South.	Along the Stard. point opposite to a bluff	1/4
West.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. Sd. just below which Muscle shell R. discharges itself on the Lard. 2270 M. up	2.
	Miles.	7.

Point of Observation No. 20.

On the Lard. shore opposite to the extremity of the 5th. course of this
day, observed time and distance of ☉'s and Ds nearest limbs, with
Sextant, the ☉ East.

Mean of a set of 12 observations

     

	Time	Distance	Longitude deduced.—
	h m s	° ′ ″	° ′ ″
A.M.	9. 44. 48	103. 3. 14.	[blank space in MS.]

Point of Observation N° 21.

On the point of land formed by the junction of the Missouri and
Muscle-Shell river observed Equal Altitudes of ☉, with Sextant.

         

	h m s
A.M.	9.53.31.	P.M.	lost	Altd. of Sextant
	″.55.6.		4. 40. 33.	at the time of Obst.
	″. 56.44.		4. 42. 10.	81°. 58′. 15″.
				h m s

Chronometer too [blank space in MS.] on Mean time [blank space
in MS.]

   

Observed Meridian Altd of ☉'s L. L. with Octant by the back observation...	59.° 50′
Latitude deduced from this Observation	47.° 00.′ 24.6″

Observed also magnetic Azimuth of ☉'s Center.

           

Azimuth by	Time by	Altitude by
Circumferenter	Chronometer	Sextant
	h m s	° ′ ″
1st. S. 85. W.	A.M. 6. 14. 35.	50.
2ed. S. 82. W.	″ 6. 24. 36	46. 37. 30.
3rd. S. 80. W.	″ 6. 34. 42.	43. 15. 30.

[Clark:]

May 10th Monday 1805

a fine morning wind from the N. E. river falling a little
we set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on verry well as usial
by the assistance of the cord passed some verry swift water,
river narrow and crooked, at 11 oClock arrived at the mouth
of Shell river on the Lard Side and formed a camp for the
present, haveing passed a large creek about 4 miles below on
the Ld Side which we call Blowing fly Creek from the emence
quantities of those insects which geather on our meat in such
numbers that we are oblige to brush them off what we eate.
Muscle Shell River falls in on Lard Side 2270 miles up contains
a greater perportion of water than Rivers of its size
below, I measured it and find it to be 110 yards wide, the
water of a Greenish Yellow Colour, and appers to be navagable
for Small craft. The Minetarres inform us that this
river heads in the 1st. of the rockey Mountains & passes
through a broken Countrey. its head at no great distance
from the Yellow Stone River The Countrey about this river
as described yesterday

we took the Meredian altitude 59°. 50′. 0″. back observation and
found the Latd. to be 47°. 0′. 24″.

Observed time & Distance of Sun & Moons nearest limbs the Sun
East.

                         

	Time	Distance
	h m s
A M.	9 39 17	103°– 5′–15
	" 40 26–	103 4 45
	" 41 17	" 4 15
	" 42 45	" 4 0
	" 44 0	" 3 30
	" 45 2	" 3 15
	" 45 56	" 3 0
	" 46 51	" 2 0
	" 47 53	" 2 0
	" 48 57	" 1 45
	" 50 22	" 1 30

Cronomoter too fast mean time

 

h m s[20]

observed Equal altitudes with Sextent

             

	H m s
A M.	9 53 31
	″ 55 6
″ 56 44	altitude produced from this observation is 81° 58′ 15″
PM	″ ″ ″
	4 40 33
	4 42 10

Took the Magnetick azmoth of the Sun

           

	Cours	Time	Distance
		h m s
P M.	S 85° W	6 14 35	50° 00′ 00″
	S 83° W	6 19 31	48 20 15
	S 82° W	6 24 38	46 37 30
	S 80° W	6 34 42	43 15 30

The Missouri at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yards wide
with a smoth current the Missouri water is not so muddey as
below, but retains nearly its usial cholour, and the sand principally
confined to the points I killed two Deer & an Elk,
the hunters killed an Elk & several deer mearly for their skins
to make Leagins. Sent men out in every derection, the Countrey
generally verry broken some leavel plains up the Shell

river. The bottoms of the Shell river is well timbered as also
a small river which falls into that river on the upper Side 5
miles above its mouth. The hills on the Lard. contain scattering
Pine & cedar

Course & Distance May 20th. 1805

                   

	mile
South	1/2	allong the Stard. Side to the upper part of a Bluff (bad water.
S. 70°. E	1	to sand point on the Stard. Sid[e]
S. 20°. W	1/2	to the timber on the Stard. point
S. 10°. E	1/4	to the enterence of a large creek Lard Side
South	1 1/4	to the point of timber on the Lard Side opposit a Bluff S.S.
S. 30°. E	1 1/4	to a willow point on the Stard Side opposit a bluff on the Lard Side
South	1/4	allong the Std point opsd. a bluff
West	2	to a point of wood land on the Lard. Side below which the mouth of Shell river falls in on the Lard Side 2270 up
miles	7

[Lewis:]

Tuesday May 21st. 1805.

A delightfull morning set out at an early hour and proceeded
on very well, imployed the chord principally; the
shores are abbrupt and bould and composed of a black and
yellow clay; see no extensive collection of pure sand, the bars
are composed [of] black mud and a small poportion of fine
sand; the courant still pretty strong. the Missouri in it's
course downward makes a suddon and extensive bend to
receive the Muscle shell river, the point of country thus
formed tho' high is still much lower than that surrounding it,
thus forming a valley of wavey country which extends itself
for a great distance in a Northerly direction; the soil is fertile,
produces a fine turf of low grass and some herbs, also
immence quantities of the Prickley pear, without a stick of
timber of any discription. the country on the South side is
high broken and crowned with some scrubby pines and dwarf
cedar; the leaf of this pine is much longer than the common

pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone is also longer and slimer,
and the imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently
covered with rosin. Mineral appearances as usual.
the growse or praire hen are now less abundant on the river
than they were below; perhaps they betake themselves to the
open plains at a distance from the river at this season.

The wind which was moderate all the fore part of the day
continued to encrease in the evening, and about dark veered
about to N.W. and blew a storm all night, in short we found
ourselves so invelloped with clouds of dust and sand that we
could neither cook, eat, nor sleep; and were finally compelled
to remove our lodge about eight oClock at night to the foot of
an adjacent hill where we were covered in some measure from
the wind by the hills. several loose articles blown over board
and lost. our first station was on a bar on Stard. opposite the
lower point of a small Island, which we now called windy Island.
the bends of the river are short and suddon, the points covered
with some cottonwood, larger willow, or broadleafed willow
with an abundance of the wild rose and some small honeysuckle
bushes constitute the undergrowth, the redwood is also
found in small quantities. Capt. C walked on shore today and
killed 2 Elk; the party killed several deer and a buffaloe Cow.

Courses and distances of May 21st. 1805.

                                   

West.	To a point of timber on the Stard. side	1.
N. 15°. W.	Along the Stard. point opposite to a hill.	1/4
N. 10°. E.	To a point of timber on the Lard. side opposite to a bluff on Star. side	2.
N. 30°. W.	To the point of a timbered bottom on the Stard. side opposite to a bluff	1 1/2
N. 20°. E.	To a point of timber on the Lard. side opposite to a bluff	1 1/4
N. 35°. W.	To a point of woodland Lard. side	1/4
N. 80°. W.	To a point of woodland Stard. side	1 1/4
N. 45°. W.	Along the Stard. shore opposite to a bluff.	1/4
N. 15°. E.	To a point of woodland Lard. side	1 1/4
N. 70°. W.	To a point of woodland Stard. side	1.
N. 30°. W.	Along the Stard. shore	1/2
N. 10° W.	To the extremity of a willow bar on Lard. side	1 1/4
N. 60° W.	To a point of woodland Lard. side	1.
S. 70°. W.	To the commencement of a bluff in a bend on the Lard. side.	2 1/4
N. 75°. W.	To a point of woodland Stard. side	1.
N. 30°. W.	To a tree in the center of a Stard. bend.	2.
S. 80°. W.	To the lower point of a timbered bottom on the Stard. side, near which we encampd.	2
	Miles	20.

Point of Observation No. 22.

On the Lard. shore at the commencement of the 5th. course of this
day observed time, and distance of ☉'s and D's nearest limbs with
Sextant, ☉ East.

Mean of a set of 12 Observations.

     

	Time	Distance
	h m s	° ′ ″
A.M.	9. 25. 35	91. 45. 19

[Clark:]

May 21st.. Tuesday 1805.

A butifull morning, wind from the West, river falling a
little, we set out at an early hour and proceed on in the usial
way by the assistance of the coard principally, but little use of
the oars & less with the poles as the bottoms are muddey, we
see no great bodies of pure sand the bars & points are rich
mud mixed with fine sand. I walked on Shore Stard Side the
river makes a great bend to the South to receve Shell River,
the point for many miles out in a Northerley direction is a
rich uneaven valley contain[ing] some short grass, and Prickley
pears without timber The Countrey on the South Side of
the Missouri is high, Soil and mineral appearance as usial,
more scattering pine & cedar on the hills, the wind which
blew moderatly all the fore part of the day increassed and about
Dark shifted to the N W. and stormed all night, Several loose
articles were blown over board, our lodge & camp which was
on a sand bar on the Std. Side & opposite to the lower point of
an Island we were obliged to move under the hills, the dust
& sand blew in clouds. The bends of the river are short and
points covered with cotton wood. undergroth wild rose bushs
I killed 2 Elk to day. Several Deer killd & a Buffalow Cow.

Course Distance May 21st. 1805

                                   

West	1	mile to a point of timber on the Std. Side
N. 15°. W	1/4	allong the Std. point opsd. a Hill
N. 10°. E	2	to a point of a timber on the Lard. Side opposit to a Bluff on the S.S.
N. 30°. W.	1 1/2	to the point of a timbered bottom on the Stard. Side opsd. to a Bluff
N. 20°. E.	1 1/4	to a point of timber on the L. Side opsd. to a bluff
N 35°. W.	1/4	to a point of wood land Lard Side
N. 80°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land Stard Side
N. 45°. W.	1/4	allong the Stard. Shore opposit to a bluff on the L.S.
N. 15°. E.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land Lard Side
N. 70°. W.	1	to a point of wood land Stard. Side
N. 30°. W.	1/2	allong the Stard. Shore
N. 10°. W.	1 1/4	to the extremity of a willow bar on the Lard Side
N. 60°. W.	1	to a point of wood land Lard. Side
S. 70°. W.	2 1/4	to the comencement of a bluff in a bend to the Lard Side
N. 75°. W.	1.	to a point of wood land Stard. Side
N. 30°. W.	2	to a tree in the center of the Std. bend
S. 80°. W	2	to the lower point of timbered botm on the Stard Side & camped
miles	20

[Lewis:]

Wednesday May 22d. 1805.

The wind blew so violently this morning that we did not
think it prudent to set out untill it had in some measure
abated; this did not happen untill 10 A.M. when we proceeded
principally by the toe lines. the bottoms somewhat
wider than usual, the lands fertile or apparently so tho' the
short grass and the scantey proportion of it on the hills would
indicate no great fertility. passed Windy Island on Lard. at
1. M. 5 1/2 Miles above passed a large Island in a bend on
Stard. side, and three miles further on the same side passed the
entrance of grows[e] Creek 20 Yds. wide, affords but little water.
this creek we named from seeing a number of the pointed tail
praire hen near it's mouth, these are the fi[r]st we have seen
in such numbers for some days. I walked on shore this
morning the country is not so broken as yesterday tho' still
high and roling or wavy; the hills on Lard. side possess more
pine than usual, some also on the Stard. hills. Salts and other

mineral appearances as usual. the river continues about the
same width or from 200 to 250 yds. wide, fewer sandbars and
the courant more gentle and regular; game not so abundant as
below the Muscle Shell river. I killed a deer in the course of
my walk today. Capt. C. also walked out this evening and
took a view of the country from a conspicuous point and found
it the same as has been discribed. we have caught but few fish
since we left the Mandans, they do not bite freely, what we
took were the white cat of 2 to 5 lbs. I presume that fish are
scarce in this part of the river. We encamped earlyer this
evening than usual in order [to] render the oil of a bear which
we killed. I do not believe that the Black bear common to
the lower part of this river and the Atlantic States, exists in
this quarter; we have neither seen one of them nor their tracks,
which would be easily distinguished by it's shortness of tallons
when compared with the brown grizly or white bear. I believe
that it is the same species or family of bears which assumes all
those colours at different ages and seasons of the year.

Courses and distances May 22ed. 1805.

                     

S. 30°. E.	To the lower point of an Island situated in a bend on Lard. side	1/4
West	Along the Stard. side passing the upper point of the Island at 3/4 of a mile high land Ld.	3.
S. 70°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. passing under a bluff on Lard. opposite to an Island in a bend to the Stard.	3 1/4
N. 45°. W.	To a point of timber on the Lard. side	2.
West.	To the mouth of a creek on the Stard. side in a deep bend to the Stard.	1.
South.	To a point of high wood on Stard. passing a Lard. point at 1/2. M. and over a willow bar from Std.	1 1/2
S. 65°. W.	Along the Stard. point, opposite to a bluff on Lard. covered with pine	1/4
West.	To a point of woodland on the Lard. side opposite to a bluff	1.
S. 30. W.	To a willow point on the Stard. side	2.
S. 60. W.	To a point of woodland on Stard. side, where we encamped;[21] a bluff opposite.	2 1/4
	Miles	16. 1/2

[Clark:]

May 22nd. Wednesday 1805

The wind continued to blow so violently hard we did not
think it prudent to set out untill it luled a little, about 10
oClock we set out the morning cold, passed a small Island
in the bend to the Lard Side, & proceeded on at 5 miles
higher passed a Island in a bend to the Stard Side, and a Creek
a short distance above on the Stard Side 20 yds wide Capt
Lewis walked out before dinner & killed a Deer, I walked
out after dinner and assended a but[te] a few miles [off] to
view the countrey, which I found roleing & of a verry rich
stickey soil producing but little vegetation of any kind except
the prickley pear, but little grass & that verry low. a great
deal of scattering Pine on the Lard Side & Some few on the
Stard. Sd. The mineral productions as described in the proceeding
days, game not so abundant as below, the river continues
about the same width, fewer Sand bars & current more regular,
river falls about an inch a day

We camped on the Stard. Side, earlier than we intend[ed] on
account of saveing the oil of a bear which the party killed late
this afternoon.

Course & Distance May 22nd. 1805

                       

	mile
S. 30°. E.	1/4	to the lower point of an Island situated in a bend to the Lard Side
West	3	allong the Stard. Side passed the upper point of the Island at 3/4. a high land on L.S.
S. 70°. W.	3 1/4	to a point of wood land on the Stard. passing under a bluff Lard. opposit an Island in a bend to the Stard. Side
N. 45°. W.	2	to a point of timber on the Lard. Side
West	1	to the mouth of a creek on the Std. Side in a Deep bend to the Stard. Side
South	1/2	to a point of high wood on Stard Side passed Lard pt. & over a willow bar from Std.
S. 65°. W.	1/4	allong the Stard. point opposit a Bluff covered with pine on the Lard Side
West	1	to a point of woodland on the Lard. Side opposit to a bluff
S. 30°. W.	2	to a willow point on the Stard Side
S. 60°. W.	2 1/4	to a point of wood land on Stard. side opposit a bluff. we encamped.
	16 1/2

Maney of the Creeks which appear to have no water near
ther mouths have streams of running water higher up which
rise & waste in the sand or gravel. the water of those creeks
are so much impregnated with the salt substance that it cannot
be Drank with pleasure.