University of Virginia Library

Chapter XII

FROM THE GREAT FALLS TO THE THREE FORKS

XII. Lewis's Journal, July 15–27, 1805
Clark's Journal, July 15–27

[Lewis:]

Monday July 15th. 1805

WE arrose very early this morning, assigned the canoes
their loads and had it put on board. we now found
our vessels eight in number all heavily laden, notwithstanding
our several deposits; tho' it is true we have now
a considerable stock of dryed meat and grease. we find it
extreemly difficult to keep the baggage of many of our men
within reasonable bounds; they will be adding bulky articles
of but little uce or value to them. At 10 A.M. we once more
saw ourselves fairly under way much to my joy and I believe
that of every individual who compose the party. I walked on
shore and killed 2 Elk near one of which the party halted and
dined. we took the skins marrowbones and a part of the flesh
of these Elk. in order to lighten the burthen of the canoes I
continued my walk all the evening and took our only invalledes
Potts an[d] La Page with me. we passed the river near
where we dined and just above the entrance of a beautifull
river 80 yards wide which falls in on the Lard. side in honour
of Mr. Robert Smith the Secretary of the Navy we called [it]
Smith's River.[1] this stream meanders through a most lovely
valley to the S.E. for about 25 miles when it enters the Rocky
mountains and is concealed from our view. many herds of
buffaloe were feeding in this valley. we again crossed the
river to the Stard. side and passed through a plain and struck
the river at a Northwardly bend where there was timber here
we waited untill the canoes arrived by which time it was so late

that we concluded to encamp for the night.[2] here Drewyer
wo[u]nded a deer which ran into the river my dog pursued
caught it drowned it and brought it to shore at our camp. we
have now passed Fort Mountain on our right it appears to be
about ten miles distant. this mountain has a singular appearance
it is situated in a level plain, it's sides stand nearly
at right angles with each other and are each about a mile in
extent. these are formed of a yellow clay only without the
mixture of rock or stone of any size and rise perpendicularly
to the hight of 300 feet. the top appears to be a level plain
and from the eminence on which I was yesterday I could see
that it was covered with a similar coat of grass with the plain
on which it stands. the surface appears also to possess a
tolerable fertile mole [mold] of 2 feet thick. and is to all
appearance inaccessible. from it's figure we gave it the name
of fort mountain. those mounds before mentioned near the
falls have much the same appearance but are none of them as
large as this one. the prickly pear is now in full blume and
forms one of the beauties as well as the greatest pests of the
plains. the sunflower is also in blume and is abundant. this
plant is common to every part of the Missouri from it's entrance
to this place. the lambsquarter,[3] wild coucumber, sand
rush and narrow dock are also common here. Drewyer killed
another deer and an Otter today. we find it inconvenient to
take all the short meanders of the river which has now become
c[r]ooked and much narrower than below, we therefore take
it's general course and lay down the small bends by the eye on
our daily traverse or chart. the river is from 100 to 150 yds.
wide. more timber on the river than below the falls for a
great distance. on the banks of the river there are many
large banks of sand much elivated above the plains on which
they ly and appear as if they had been collected in the course
of time from the river by the almost incessant S.W. winds;
they always appear on the sides of the river opposite to those
winds.

The [cour]ses and distances from the White bear islands to the camp
at which we made the canoes as taken by Sergt. Ordway.

                                           

S. 10°. E.	1 1/2	to a point of low trees on the Lard. side passing a willow island on Lard. side
S. 36°. E.	1.	to a point of wood on the Stard. side
South.	1.	to a clift of rocks in a bend on Lard. side
S. 45°. W.	1 1/2	to some trees in a bend, passing a timbered isla[n]d on the Stard. side.
South	1 1/4	to a point of low timber on Stard. side
S. 24. W.	1.	to a bunch of bushes on the Lard. side
West	2.	to a grove of trees in a Lard. bend
N. 26°. W.	2.	to a point of wood on the Lard. side
North	1.	Along the Lard. point
N. 20°. W.	1 1/2	to a small Creek Lard. side
S. 45°. W.	3/4	to the lower point of a timbered Is.ld S. S.
S. 10°. E.	1 1/2	opposite the island on the Lard. side
S. 16°. W.	3/4	to a point above the Island Lard. side.
South—	1 1/2.	to a point of low timber on the Stard. side opposite to a bluff on Lard. side
West	1/2	to a tree in a Lard. bend.
North—	1/2	to a point of timbered land on Lard. side
N. 12°. W.	1	to a point on Lard. side
West	1 1/2	to a point on the Stard. side.
N. 16°. W.	1/2	to a point of timber on Lard. side
N. 60°. W.	1/2	along the lard. point, passing a large sand bar on Lard. side.
S. 54°. W.	1/2	to a point of woodland Stard. side where we built two canoes.—
Miles	23. 1/4

Courses and distances July 15th. 1805.

                                 

S. 45°. W.	1/4	to the upper part of the timber Stard. side
S. 60°. E.	3/4	to a bend on the Lard. side
S. 20°. W.	1/2	along the lard. side in the bend
N. 70°. W.	1 1/2	to a point on the Stard. side passing an Is1d.
South	3/4	to a Lard. bend passing the entrance of Fort Mountain creek at the commencement of this course no water at present 10 yds. w.
S. 30°. W.	2 1/4	to a bend on the Stard. side oposite an Island passing a Stard. and Lard. point.
West	1 1/2	to the lower point of the woodland at the entrance of Smith's river, which is 80 yds. wide and falls in on Lard. in a bend
N. 45°. W.	1 3/4.	to a Stard bend.
South	3	to the head of an Island in the Lard. bend passing over the Lard. point.
N. 45°. W.	1 1/4	to a stard. bend.
West	1/2	in the stard. bend.
South	3/4	in the Stard. bend.
S. 45°. E.	3/4	in the Stard. bend.
East	1.	in the Stard. bend passing an island Lard. side
S. 45°. E	3/4	on the Lard. side.
West	2 1/2	to a wood in the Stard. bend. where we encamped for the evening.
Miles	19 3/4

[Clark:]

July 15th. Monday 1805

rained all the last night, I was wet all night, this morning
wind hard from the S.W. we Set out at 10 oClock and proceeded
on verry well passed a river on the Lard Side about
80 yards wide which we call after the Secty. of the Navey Smiths
River. the river verry crooked bottoms extensive rich and
Passes thro' a butifull Vally between 2 Mts. [and] Conts. high
grass, our Canoes being so Small Several of the men Capt.
Lewis & myself Compelled to walk on Shore & cross the bends
to keep up with the Canoes a round mountain on our right
abt. 10 miles appears inaxcessable we call fort mountain. The
Prickley Pear in bloom but fiew other flowers. Sunflowrs are
common, also lambs quarter & Nettles. Capt Lew[is] killed
2 Elk & the hunters killed 2 Deer & a ortter, we camped on
the Stard Side at which place I saw many beaver, the timber
on the edge of the river more Common than below the falls.
as I am compelled to walk on Shore find it verry dificuelt to
take the Courses of the river, as it is verry crooked more so
than below

[Lewis:]

Tuesday July 16th. 1805.

We had a heavy dew last night sen[t] one man back this
morning for an ax that he had carelessly left last evening some

miles below, and set out at an early hour. early this morning
we passed about 40 little booths formed of willow bushes to
shelter them from the sun; they appeared to have been
deserted about 10 days; we supposed that they were snake
Indians. they appeared to have a number of horses with
them. this appearance gives me much hope of meeting with
these people shortly. Drewyer killed a buffaloe this morning
near the river and we halted and breakfasted on it. here for
the first time I ate of the small guts of the buffaloe cooked
[Qu?] over a blazing fire in the Indian stile without any
preperation of washing or other clensing and found them very
good. After breakfast I determined to leave Capt. C. and
party, and go on to the point where the river enters the Rocky
Mountains and make the necessary observations against their
arrival; accordingly I set out with the two invalleds Potts and
LaPage and Drewyer; I passed through a very handsome
level plain on the Stard. side of the river, the country equally
level and beautifull on the opposite side; at the distance of
8 Mls. passed a small stream on which I observed a considerable
quantity of aspin. a little before 12 I halted on the river at a
Stard. bend and well timbered bottom about 4 1/2 miles below the
mountains and made the following observation.

Point of observation No. 30.

       

Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉'s. L. L. with
	56°. 38.′—″.
Octant by the back Observation.
Latitude deduced from this observation.	N. 46. 46. 50.2

after this observation we pursued our rout through a high
roling plain to a rappid immediately at the foot of the mountain
where the Missouri first enters them.[4] the current of the
missouri below these rappids is strong for several miles, tho'
just above there is scarcely any current, the river very narrow
and deep abo[u]t 70 yds. wide only and seems to be closely

hemmed in by the mountains on both sides, the bottoms only
a few yards in width. an Indian road enters the mountain at
the same place with the river on the Stard. side and continues
along it's border under the steep clifts these mountains appear
to be only about 800 feet above the river and are formed
almost entirely of a hard black grannite. with a few dwarf pine
and cedar scattered on them. at this place there is a large
rock of 400 feet high w[h]ich stands immediately in the gap
which the missouri makes on it's passage from the mountains;
it is insulated from the neighbouring mountains by a handsome
little plain which surrounds it[s] base on 3 sides and the
Missouri washes it's base on the other, leaving it on the Lard.
as it decends. this rock I called the tower. it may be ascended
with some difficulty nearly to it's summit, and from it
there is a most pleasing view of the country we are now about
to leave. from it I saw this evening immence herds of buffaloe
in the plains below. near this place we killed a fat elk on
which we both dined and suped. the Musquetoes are extreemly
troublesome this evening and I had left my bier, of
course suffered considerably, and promised in my wrath that I
never will be guil[t]y of a similar peice of negligence while on
this voyage.[5]

[Clark:]

July 16th. Tuesday 1805

a fair morning after a verry cold night, heavy dew, dispatched
one man back for an ax left a fiew miles below, and
Set out early Killed a Buffalow on which we Brackfast
Capt Lewis & 3 men went on to the mountain to take a
meridian altitude, passed about 40 Small Camps, which appeared
to be abandoned about 10 or 12 days, Suppose they
were Snake Indians, a fiew miles above I Saw the poles
Standing in their position of a verry large lodge of 60 feet
Diameter, & the appearance of a number of Leather Lodges
about, this Sign was old & appeared to have been last fall

great number of buffalow the river is not So wide as below
from 100 to 150 yards wide & Deep Crouded with Islands &
Crooked Some scattering timber on its edge Such as Cotton
wood Cotton willow, willow and box elder, the S[h]rubs are
arrow wo[o]d red wood, Choke cherry, red berries, Goose
beries, Sarvis buries, red & yellow Currents a Sp[e]cie of
Shomake &c.

I camped on the head of a Small Island near the Stard. Shore
at the Rockey Mountains this Range of mountains appears
to run NW & SE and is about 800 feet higher than the
Water in the river faced with a hard black rock the current
of the River from the Medison river to the Mountain is gentle,
bottoms low and extensive, and its General Course is S. 10°. W.
about 30 miles on a direct line

Course Distances &c. from White bear Island Camp to the mountains.

July 13th. 14th. 15th. & 16. 1805

                     

	miles
S 10°. E	1 1/2	to a point of low trees on the Lard. Side passed a Willow Island L.S.
S 36°. E	1	to a point of wood on the Stard Side
South	1	to a Clift of rocks in a bend on the L.S.
SW	1 1/2	to Some trees in a bend passed a timbered Island on the Std. Side
South	1 1/4	to a point of low wood Std. Side
S. 24°. W	1	to a bunch of bushes on the L.S.
West	2	to a grove of trees in a bend L.S.
N. 26°. W.	2	to a point of wood on the L.S.
North	1	allong the Lard point
	12 1/4

14

                         

N. 20°. W	1 1/2	to a Creek on the Lard. Side
S. W.	3/4	to the lower point of an Island. S.S.
S. 10°. E	1 1/2	opposit the Island on the L.S.
S. 16°. W.	3/4	to a point above the Island L. Side.
South	1 1/2	to point of low timber on the Stard. Side a Bluff & rocks on L.S.
West	1/2	to a tree in a bend on the L. Side
North	1/2	to a point of wood on the L. Side
N. 12°. W.	1	to a point on the Lard Side
West	1 1/2	to a point on the Stard. Side
N. 16°. W	1/2	to a point of wood on the L. Side
N. 60°. W.	1/2	along Said point, passing a large Sand bar L.S.
S. 54°. W.	1/2	to a point of wood Stard Side at which place I built 2 Canoes.
	23 1/4

15

                                 

SW	1/4	to the upper part of a wood St Side
S. 60°. E	3/4	to a bend on the Lard. Side
S. 20°. W.	1/2	on the Lard. Side in the bend
N. 70°. W.	1 1/2	to a point on the Stard. Side passed an Island
South	3/4	to the Lard. Bend
S. 30°. W.	2 1/4	to a bend on the Stard. Side opsd. an Isld. passed a Stard. & Lard point
West	1 1/2	to the lower point of a wood at the mouth of Smiths river in the Lard bend 80 yards wide
N. 45°. W	1 3/4	to the Stard bend
South	3	to the head of an Island in the Lard bend passing over the Lard point
N. 45°. W	1 1/4	to the Stard. bend
West	1/2	in the Stard. bend
South	3/4	in the Stard. bend
S 45°. E	3/4	in the Stard. bend
East	1	in the Stard bend passd an Isld. L.S.
SE	3/4	on the Lard Side
West	2 1/2	to a wood in the Std bend
	43

16th.

                   

S 30°. E	1 1/2	to trees on the Lard bend
West	1 1/2	to the Stard. bend passing over a Sd. pt.
S. 10° E	3/4	to the mouth of a run Lard bend
SW	1 1/2	to a bend on the Stard. Side
S. 15°. E	1/2	to a bend on the Lard. Side.
SW.	2	to the mouth of a run on Std. Side
SE.	1	to a bend Lard Side (opsd. a big Lodge)
South	1	on the Lard Side in a bend opposit an Island
S. 70° W	1	in the Lard bend
	53 3/4

                 

S. 30° W	1	in the bend to the Lard Side
South	3/4	in the bend to the Lard. Side
N. 30°. W	1 1/4	to a bend on the Stard Side passed a Small Island
South	4	to the Lower point of a timber on the Stard Side passed 6 Islands
S. 60°. E.	1/2	to the bend on the Lard Side
S 50° W	1 1/2	to the upper point of an Island
S 18°. E	1	to the lower point of an Island
SW	2	to a Bayou on the S.S. passed an Isld.
South	1/4	to the Lard bend enca[m]ped on the upper point of the island

17th.

         

West	1 1/2	to a Spur of the rocky Mountain in a bend to the Stard. Side
S. 10° E	1 1/4	to a Spur of the d°. on the L. Side
S. 60° W.	2	to a Small Island in the bend to the Stard Side
South	1/4	to a pine tree on the lower point of an Island above a rapid, at the mountains. high rocks on each side
miles	71

[Lewis:]

Wednesday July 17th. 1805.

The sunflower is in bloom and (copy for Dr Barton.) abundant
in the river bottoms. The Indians of the Missouri
particularly those who do not cultivate maze make great uce
of the seed of this plant for bread, or use it in thickening their
soope. they most commonly first parch the seed and then
pound them between two smooth stones untill they reduce it
to a fine meal. to this they sometimes mearly add a portion
of water and drink it in that state, or add a sufficient quantity
of marrow grease to reduce it to the consistency of common
dough and eate it in that manner. the last composition I
think much best and have eat it in that state heartily and
think it a pallatable dish. there is but little of the broad
leafed cottonwood above the falls, much the greater portion
being of the narrow leafed kind. there are a great abundance
of red yellow perple & black currants, and service berries now
ripe and in great perfection. I find these fruits very pleasent
particularly the yellow currant which I think vastly preferable

to those of our gardens. the shrub which produces this fruit
rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet; the stem simple branching
and erect. they grow closly ascociated in cops either in the
oppen or timbered lands near the watercou[r]ses. the leaf is
petiolate of a pale green and resembles in it's form that of the
red currant common to our gardens. the perianth of the
fructification is one leaved, five cleft, abreviated and tubular,
the corolla is monopetallous funnel-shaped, very long, superior,
withering and of a fine orrange colour. five stamens and
one pistillum; of the first, the fillaments are capillare, inserted
into the corolla, equal, and converging; the anther ovate,
biffid and incumbent. with rispect to the second the germ is
roundish, smo[o]th, inferior pedicelled and small; the style,
long, and thicker than the stamens, simple, cylindrical, smooth,
and erect, withering and remains with the corolla untill the
fruit is ripe. stigma simple obtuse and withering. the fruit
is a berry about the size and much the shape of the red currant
of our gardins, like them growing in clusters supported
by a compound footstalk, but the peduncles which support the
several berries are longer in this species and the berries are
more scattered. it is quite as transparent as the red current
of our gardens, not so ascid, & more agreeably flavored. the
other species differ not at all in appearance from the yellow
except in the colour and flavor of their berries. I am not
confident as to the colour of the corolla, but all those which I
observed while in blume as we came up the Missouri were
yellow but they might possibly have been all of the yellow
kind and that the perple red and black currants here may have
corollas of different tints from that of the yellow currant.
The survice berry differs somewhat from that of the U. States
the bushes are small sometimes not more than 2 feet high and
scarcely ever exceed 8 and are proportionably small in their
stems, growing very thickly ascosiated in clumps. the fruit is
the same form but for the most part larger more lucious and
of so deep a perple that on first sight you would think them
black. there are two species of goosbirris here allso but
neither of them yet ripe. the choke cherries also abundant
and not yet ripe. there is Boxalder, red willow and a species
of sumac here also. there is a large pine tree situated on a
small island at the head of these rappids above our cam[p];
it being the first we have seen for a long distance near the
river I called the island pine island. This range of the rocky
mountains runs from S E to N.W. at 8 A.M. this morning
Capt. Clark arrived with the party. we took breakfast here,
after which I had the box which contained my instruments
taken by land arround tower rock to the river above the
rappid; the canoes ascended with some difficulty but without
loss or injury, with their loads.

Point of observation No. 31.

At my camp on the Stard. side of the Missouri below the rappids
where the river fi[r]st enters the Rocky Mountains

Observed time and distance of ☉'s. and D's. nearest limbs with Sextant,
☉ East.

                   

	Time	Distance		Time	Distance
	h ′ ″	° ′ ″		h m s	° ′ ″
A.M.	8. 14. 43	115. 0. 0.	A.M.	8. 34. 51	114. 52. 00
	". 17. 32	115. 0. 0.		". 35. 43	". 51. 15.
	". 19. 14	114. 57. 45.		". 38. 10	". 50. 30.
	". 21. 29	". 57. 0.		". 39. 47	". 49. 45.
	". 22. 39.	". 57. 0.		". 41. 30	". 48. 45.
	". 23. 38	". 56. 45.		". 42. 34	". 48. 30
	". 26. 18	". 55. 15.		". 43. 52	". 48. 30
	". 27. 35	". 54. 45.		". 44. 16	". 48. 00.

Point of Observation No. 33.

On the Stard. side of the Missouri one mile above the point of
observation of this morning.

     

Observed Meridian Altitude of ☉'s. L. L. with Octant by the back observation	56° 50'.
	° ′ ″
Latitude deduced from this observation	46. 42. 14. 7

After making those observations we proceed, and as the
canoes were still heavy loaded all persons not employed in
navigating the canoes wall[k]ed on shore. the river clifts were
so steep and frequently projecting into the river with their perpendicular
points in such manner that we could not pass them
by land, we were therefore compelled to pass and repass the

river very frequently in the cou[r]se of the evening. the
bottoms are narrow the river also narrow deep and but little
current. river from 70 to 100 yds. wide. but little timber on
the river aspin constitutes a part of that little. see more pine
than usual on the mountains tho' still but thinly scattered. we
saw some mountain rams or bighorned anamals this evening,
and no other game whatever and indeed there is but little appearance
of any. in some places both banks of the river are
formed for a short distance of nearly perpendicular rocks of a
dark black grannit of great hight; the river has the appearance
of having cut it's passage in the course of time through this solid
rock. we ascended about 6 miles this evening from the entrance
of the mountain and encamped on the Stard. side where
we found as much wood as made our fires.[6] musquetoes still
troublesome knats not as much so. Capt. C. now informed me
that after I left him yesterday, he saw the poles of a large lodge
in praire on the Stard. side of the river which was 60 feet in
diameter and appeared to have been built last fall; there were
the remains of about 80 leather lodges near the place of the
same apparent date. this large lodge was of the same construction
of that mentioned above the white bear Islands. the
party came on very well and encamped on the lower point of
an island near the Stard. shore on that evening. this morning
they had set out early and proceeded without obstruction untill
they reached the rappid where I was encamped.

Courses and Distances of the 16th. July 1805.

                                     

S. 30°. E.	1 1/2	to some trees in a Lard. bend.
West.	1 1/2	to a Stard. bend passing over a Stard. point.
S. 10°. E.	– 3/4	to the mouth of a run in a Lard. bend
S. 45°. W.	1 1/2	to a bend on Stard. side.
S. 15°. E.	1/2	to a bend on the Lard. side.
S. 45°. W.	2.	to the mouth of a run on Stard. side
S. 45°. E.	1.	to a bend on Lard. side opposite a large lodge
South –	1.	along the Lard. side in a bend opposite an island
S. 70°. W.	1.	in a Lard. bend.
S. 30°. W.	1.	in a bend on the Lard. side.
South	3/4.	in the Lard. bend
N. 30°. W.	1 1/4	to a bend on Stard. passing a small island
South	4.	to the lower point of some timber on Stard. side passing 6 islands.
S. 60°. E.	1/2	to a bend on Lard. side
S. 50°. W.	1 1/2	to the upper point of an island
S. 18°. E.	1	to the lower point of an island
S. 45°. W.	2	to a bayou on Stard. passing an island
South –	1/4.	to a lard. bend, encamped on the upper point of the
Miles	23.	Island near Stard. shore

Cou[r]ses and distances July 17th. 1805.

                             

West.	1 1/2	to a spur of the rocky Mountains in a ben[d] Std.
S. 10°. E.	1 1/4	to a spur of D°. D°. on the Lard. side
S. 60°. W.	2.	to a small Island in a bend on Stard. side
South	1/4.	to a large pine tree on the lower point of pine Island above the rappids where the river enters the rocky Mountains.
S. 20°. W. –.	3/4	to a high clift of the mountain on Lard. side passing pine island at 1/4 M. a small run on Lard. just above the island, and a Lard. & Stard. point.
West .	1/4.	to a bend on the Stard. side, high clifts on either side
South –	1/4.	to a bend on Lard. side D°. d°.
N. 60°. E.	1/2	to a bend on the Stard. side d°. d°. passd. an Isld.
S. 20°. W.	1/2.	to a bend on the Lard. side d°. d°.
West	1/2.	to a bend on the Stard. side d°. d°.
S. 30°. E.	1.	to a bend on the Lard. side d°. d°. passing an Isd.
West	1 1/4	to a bend on the Stard. side bottoms reather wider
S. 5°. W. –	1/2	to a point of rocks in a Lard. bend.
N. 75°. W.	3/4	to a bend on the Stard. side, opposite a very high clift
Miles	11. 1/4	where we encamped for the evening.[7]

[Clark:]

July 17th″ Wednesday 1805

Set out early this morning and crossed the rapid at the
Island cald. pine rapid with Some dificuelty, at this rapid I
came up with Capt. Lewis & partey took a Medn. altitude &

we took Some Luner Observations &c. and proceeded on, the
emence high Precipces oblige all the party to pass & repass the
river from one point to another the river confined in maney
places in a verry narrow chanel from 70 to 120 yards wide
bottoms narrow without timber and maney places the Mountain[s]
approach on both Sides, we observe great deel of
Scattering pine on the Mountains, Some aspin, Spruce & fur
trees took a meridian altd. which gave for Lattitude 46° – 42'.
14″ 7/10 N We proceeded on verry well about 8 miles &
Camped on the Stard. Side. The river crooked bottoms narrow,
Clifts high and Steep, I assended a Spur of the Mountain,
which I found to be highe & dificuelt of axcess, Containing
Pitch Pine & Covered with grass Scercely any game to be
seen. The yellow Current now ripe also the fussey [fuzzy]
red Choke Cheries getting ripe. Purple Current[s] are also
ripe. Saw Several Ibix or mountain rams to day

[Lewis:]

Thursday July 18th. 1805.

Set out early this morning. previous to our departure saw
a large herd of the Bighorned anamals on the immencely high
and nearly perpendicular clift opposite to us; on the fase of this
clift they walked about and bounded from rock to rock with
apparent unconcern where it app[e]ared to me that no quadruped
could have stood, and from which had they made one
false step the[y] must have been precipitated at least a 500
feet. this anamal appears to frequent such precepices and
clifts where in fact they are perfectly secure from the pursuit
of the wolf, bear, or even man himself. at the distance of 2 1/2
miles we passed the entrance of a considerable river on the
Stard. side; about 80 yds. wide being nearly as wide as the Missouri
at that place. it's current is rapid and water extreamly
transparent; the bed is formed of small smooth stones of flat
rounded or other figures. it's bottoms are narrow but possess
as much timber as the Missouri. the country is mountainous
and broken through which it passes. it appears as if it might
be navigated but to what extent must be conjectural. this
handsome bold and clear stream we named in honour of the

Secretary of war[8] calling it Dearborn's river. as we were
anxious now to meet with the Sosonees or snake Indians as
soon as possible in order to obtain information relative to the
geography of the country and also if necessary, some horses
we thought it better for one of us either Capt. C. or myself to
take a small party & proceed on up the river some distance
before the canoes, in order to discover them, should they be
on the river before the daily discharge of our guns, which was
necessary in procuring subsistence for the party, should allarm
and cause them to retreat to the mountains and conceal themselves,
supposing us to be their enemies who visit them usually
by the way of this river. accordingly Capt. Clark set out this
morning after breakfast with Joseph Fields, Pots and his
servant York. we proceeded on tolerably well; the current
st[r]onger than yesterday; we employ the cord and oars principally
tho' sometimes the setting pole. in the evening we
passed a large creek about 30 yds. wide which disembogues on
the Stard. side; it discharges a bold current of water it's banks
low and bed formed of stones altogether; this stream we called
Ordway's creek[9] after Sergt. John Ordway. I have observed
for several days a species of flax growing in the river bottoms
the leaf stem and pericarp of which resembles the common flax
cultivated in the U.States.[10] the stem rises to the hight of
about 2 1/2 or 3 feet high; as many as 8 or ten of which proceede
from the same root. the root appears to be perennial.
the bark of the stem is thick strong and appears as if it would
make excellent flax. the seed are not yet ripe but I hope to
have an opportunity of collecting some of them after they are
so. if it should on experiment prove to yeald good flax and
at the same time admit of being cut without injury the perennial
root it will be a most valuable plant, and I think there is
the greatest probability that it will do so, for notwithstanding
the seed have not yet arrived at maturity it is puting up
suckers or young shoots from the same root and would seem
therefore that those which are fully grown and which are in
the proper stage of vegitation to produce the best f[l]ax are
not longer essencial to the preservation or support of the root.
the river somewhat wider than yesterday and the mountains
more distant from the river and not so high; the bottoms are
but narrow and little or no timber near the river. some pine
on the mountains which seems principally confined to their
uper region. we killed one Elk this morning and found part
of the flesh and the skin of a deer this evening which had been
kiled and left by Capt. Clark. we saw several herds of the
Bighorn but they were all out of our reach on inacessable clifts.
we encamped on the Lard. side in a small grove of narro[w-]
leafed cottonwood. there is not any of the broad leafed
cottonwood on the river since it has entered the mountains.
Capt Clark ascended the river on the Stard. side. in the early
part of the day after he left me the hills were so steep that he
gained but little off us; in the evening he passed over a mountain
by which means he cut off many miles of the river's circuitous
rout; the Indian road which he pursued over this
mountain is wide and appears as if it had been cut down or
dug in many places. he passed two streams of water, the
branches of Ordway's creek, on which he saw a number of
beaver dams succeeding each other in close order and extending
as far up those streams as he could discover them in their
cou[r]se towards the mountains. he also saw many bighorn
anamals on the clifts of the mountains. not far beyond the
mountain which he passed in the evening he encamped on a
small stream of runing water, having travelled about 20.M.
the water of those rivulets which make down from these mountains
is extreemly cold pure and fine. the soil near the river
is of a good quality and produces a luxuriant growth of grass
and weeds; among the last the sunflower holds a distinguished
place. the aspin is small but grows very commonly on the
river and small streams which make down from the Mouts.

Courses and distances of July 18th. 1805.

                         

S. 15°. W.	1 1/4	to a Lard. bend a high clift of the mountain on Ld. Sd.
West	1 1/4	to the entrance of Dearborn's river on Stard.
S. 45°. W.	2 1/2	to a Stard. bend
S. 8°. E.	6 1/2	to the center of a bend on Lard. side, passing several small bends, a small creek at one mile on Lard. and an island on Stard. near the extrety of course
S. 80°. W.	1/2	to a tree in the center of a Stard. bend
S. 20°. W.	1 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend passing an Island.
S. 70°. E.	1/4	to a bluff in a Stard. bend.
S. 75° W.	1 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend, passing a small creek at 1/2 M. on Stard. side.
S. 5°. W.	1/2	to the entrance of Ordway's Creek on the Stard side in a Stard. bend 30 yds. wide.
S. 30°. E.		to the center of a Lard. bend. the vally widens
S. 40°. W.	3/4	to the center of a Stard. bend.
S. 85°. E.	2.	to the center of a Lard. bend, passing 3 short bends,
Miles.	21.	where we encamped for the evening.

Point of observation N. 33.

On the Lard. shore two miles above the entrance of Dearborn's River,
observed time and distance ☉'s and moon's nearest limbs with Sextant;
☉. East.

             

	Time	Distance		Time	Distance
	h m s	° ′ ″		h m s
A.M.	7. 55. 50	102. 57. 30.	A.M.	8. 7. 12	102. 53. .
	". 58. 33	". 57. –.		". 8. 52	". 52. 30
	8. 00. 14	". 56. 30		". 10. 21	". 51. 30
	". 2. 20	". 54. 45		". 12. 47	". 51. 15
	". 5. 50	". 53. 45		". 13. 35	". 51. 15

I also observed another species of flax today which is not
so large as the first, sildome attaining a greater hight then 9
Inches or a foot the stem and leaf resemble the other species
but the stem is rarely branched, bearing a single monopetallous
bellshaped blue flower which is suspended with it's limb downwards,[11]

[Clark:]

July 18th. Thursday 1805

a fine morning passed a Considerable river which falls in
on the Stard. Side and nearly as wide as the Missouri we call
[it] Dearbournes river after the Sety. of war. we thought it
prudent for a partey to go a head for fear our fireing Should
allarm the Indians and cause them to leave the river and take
to the mountains for safty from their enem[ie]s who visit them
thro this rout. I deturmined to go a head with a Small partey
a few days and find the Snake Indians if possible after brackfast
I took J. Fields Potts & my Servent proceeded on. the
Country So Hilley that we gained but little of the Canoes
untill in the evening I passed over a mountain on an Indian
rode by which rout I cut off Several Miles of the Meanderings
of the river, the roade which passes this mountain is wide and
appears to have been dug in maney places, we camped on a
Small run of Clear cold water, musquitors verry troublesom
the forepart of the evening I saw great maney Ibex. we
crossed two Streams of running water on those streams ordway
Creek I saw Several Beaver dams. the Countrey is
mountanious & rockey except the Valey &c. which is covered
with earth of a good quality without timber, The timber
which is principally pitch pine is Confined to the mountains,
the Small runs & Creeks which have water running in them
Contain Cotton-Willow, Willow, & aspin. trees all Small.
I Saw maney fine Springs & Streams of running water which
Sink & rise alternately in the Valies the water of those
Streams are fine, those streams which run off into the river
are damed up by the beaver from near ther mouthes up as
high as I could See up them

[Lewis:]

Friday July 19th. 1805.

The Musquetoes are very troublesome to us as usual. this
morning we set out early and proceeded on very well tho' the
water appears to encrease in volocity as we advance. the current
has been strong all day and obstructed with some rapids,
tho' these are but little broken by rocks and are perfectly
safe. the river deep and from 100 to 150 yds. wide. I walked

along shore today and killed an Antelope. wh[en]ever we
get a view of the lofty summits of the mountains the snow
presents itself, altho' we are almost suffocated in this confined
vally with heat. the pine cedar and balsum fir grow on the
mountains in irregular assemb[l]ages or spots mostly high up
on their sides and summits. this evening we entered much
the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen. these clifts
rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the
hight of (about) 1200 feet. every object here wears a dark and
gloomy aspect. the tow[er]ing and projecting rocks in many
places seem ready to tumble on us. the river appears to have
forced it's way through this immence body of solid rock for
the distance of 5 3/4 Miles and where it makes it's exit below
has th[r]own on either side vast collumns of rocks mountains
high. the river appears to have woarn a passage just the width
of it's channel or 150 yds. it is deep from side to side nor is
ther in the 1st. 3 Miles of this distance a spot except one of a
few yards in extent on which a man could rest the soal of his
foot. several fine springs burst out at the waters edge from
the interstices of the rocks. it happens fortunately that altho'
the current is strong it is not so much so but what it may be
overcome with the oars for there is hear no possibility of using
either the cord or Setting pole. it was late in the evening
before I entered this place and was obliged to continue my
rout untill sometime after dark before I found a place sufficiently
large to encamp my small party; at length such an one
occurred on the lard. side where we found plenty of lightwood
and pi[t]ch pine. this rock is a black grannite below and
appears to be of a much lighter colour above and from the
fragments I take it to be flint of a yellowish brown and light
creemcoloured yellow. from the singular appearance of this
place I called it the gates of the rocky mounatains.[12] the mountains
higher today than yesterday, saw some Bighorns and a
few Antelopes also beaver and Otter; the latter are now very
plenty one of the men killed one of them today with a setting
pole. musquetoes less troublesome than usual. we had a
thundershower today about 1 P.M. which continued about an
hour and was attended with some hail. we have seen no
buffaloe since we entered the mounts this morning early Capt.
Clark pursued his rout, saw early in the day the remains of
several Indians camps formed of willow brush which appeared
to have been inhabited some time this spring. saw where the
natives had pealed the bark off the pine trees about the same
season. this the indian woman with us informs that they do
to obtain the sap and soft part of the wood and bark for food.
at 11. A.M. Capt. C. feell in with a gang of Elk of which he
killed 2. and not being able to obtain as much wood as would
make a fire substituded the dung of the buffaloe[13] and cooked
a part of their meat on which they breakfasted and again pursued
their rout, which lay along an old indian road. this
evening they passed a hansome valley watered by a large creek
which extends itself with it's valley into the mountain to a
considerable distance. the latter part of the evening their rout
lay over a hilly and mountanous country covered with the sharp
fragments of flint which cut and bruised their feet excessively;
nor wer the prickly pear of the leveler part of the rout much
less painfull; they have now become so abundant in the open
uplands that it is impossible to avoid them and their thorns
are so keen and stif that they pearce a double thickness of
dressed deers skin with ease. Capt. C. informed me that he
extracted 17 of these bryers from his feet this evening after he
encamped by the light of the fire. I have guarded or reather
fortifyed my feet against them by soaling my mockersons with
the hide of the buffaloe in parchment [i.e., hard-dried]. he
encamped on the river much fortiegud having passed two
mountains in the course of the day and travelled about 30
Miles.

Courses and distances of the 19th. July 1805.

                           

South	1/4	to a pine tree on the Stard. side in a bend
S. 85. E.	2.	to the center of a Lard. bend
S. 38. W.	1.	to a pine in the Stard. bend
South	1 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend
N. 10°. W.	2 1/2	to the center of a Lard. bend
S. 30°. E.	1 1/4	to the center of a Stard. bend
S. 25° E.	4 1/2	to the center of a Lard. bend
S. 28°. W.	1.	to the center of a Stard. bend passing 2 small islands near the commencement of this course
S. 60° E.	1 1/4	to the center of a Stard. bend
N. 70° E.	1 1/2	to the entrance of a small creek in a Lard. bend, passing an island near the Stard. side.
S. 25° E.	1 1/2	to a point of rocks in a bend on the Stard. side; those rocks put in close to the river on both sides, are perpendicular and about 1200 feet high, this place has so singular an appearance that I call it the gates of the rocky mountains. the water appears to have forced it's way through this immence body of solid rock, and thrown on either side below collumns of rock mountains high.
S. 55. E	1/4	to the center of a bend in the gates.
S. 10. W.	3 1/2	to a bend on Lard. side passing a small island in the
Miles	22.	middle of the river at 1 1/2 miles. a little short of the extremity of this course we encamped on the Lard. side.

[Clark:]

July 19th. Fryday 1805

a fine morning I proceeded on in an Indian Parth river
verry Crooked passed over two mountains Saw Several
Indians Camps which they have left this Spring. Saw trees
Peeled & found poles &c. at 11 oC. I saw a gange of Elk,
as we had no provision Concluded to kill Some. Killd. two
and dined being oblige[d] to substitute dry buffalow dung in
place of wood, this evening passed over a Cream Coloured
flint which [has] roled down from the Clifts into the bottoms,
the Clifts Contain flint a dark grey Stone & a redish brown
intermixed and no one Clift is solid rock, all the rocks of
everry description is in Small pi[e]ces, appears to have been

broken by Some Convulsion passed a butifull Creek on the
Std. Side this even[in]g which meanders thro' a butifull Vallie
of great extent, I call after Sgt Pryor.[14] the countrey on the
Lard Side a high mountain Saw Several Small rapids to day
the river keep[s] its width and appear[s] to be deep, my
feet is verry much brused & cut walking over the flint, &
constantly stuck full [of] Prickley pear thorns, I puled out
17 by the light of the fire to night. We camped on the river
Same (Lard) Side Musqutors verry troublesom.

[Lewis:]

Saturday 20th. 1805

Set out early this morning as usual; currant strong, we therefore
employ the toe rope when ever the banks permit the use
of it; the water is reather deep for the seting pole in most
places. at 6 A.M. the hills retreated from the river and the
valley became wider than we have seen it since we entered
the mountains. some scattering timber on the river and in
the valley. consisting of the narrowleafed Cottonwood aspin
& pine. vas[t] numbers of the several species of currants
goosberries and service berries; of each of these I preserved
some seeds. I found a black currant which I thought preferable
in flavor to the yellow. this currant is really a charming
fruit and I am confident would be prefered at our markets to
any currant now cultivated in the U. States. we killed an Elk
this morning which was very acceptable to us. through the
valley which we entered early in the morning a large creek
flows from the mountains and discharges itself into the river
behind an island on Stard. side about 15 yds. wide this we
called Pott's Creek[15] after John Potts one of our party. about

10 A.M. we saw the smoke arrise as if the country had been
set on fire up the valley of this creek about 7 Mi. distant we
were at a loss to determine whether it had been set on fire by
the natives as a signall among themselves on discovering us,
as is their custom or whether it had been set on fire by Capt. C.
and party accedentally. the first however proved to be the
fact, they had unperceived by us discovered Capt. Clark's party
or mine, and had set the plain on fire to allarm the more distant
natives (heard a gun from Capt C's party & fled quite over
the mountains, thinking it their enemies Blackfoots.) and fled themselves
further into the interior of the mountains. this evening
we found the skin of an Elk and part of the flesh of the anamal
which Capt. C. had left near the river at the upper side of the
valley where he assended the mountain with a note informing
me of his transactions (progressions) and that he should pass the
mounts which lay just above us and wate our arrival at some
convenient place on the river. the other elk which Capt. C.
had killed we could not find. about 2. in the evening we had
passed through a range of low mountains and the country
bacame more open again, tho' still broken and untimbered and
the bottoms not very extensive. we encamped on the Lard. side
near a spring on a high bank[16] the prickly pears are so abundant
that we could scarcely find room to lye. just above our
camp the river is again closed in by the Mouts. on both sides.
I saw a black woodpecker (or crow) today about the size of the
lark woodpecker as black as a crow. I indevoured to get a
shoot at it but could not. it is a distinct species of woodpecker;
it has a long tail and flys a good deel like the jay bird.[17]

This morning Capt. Clark set out early and proceeded on
through a valley leaving the river about six miles to his left;
he fell in with an old Indian road which he pursued untill it

struck the river about 18 miles from his camp of the last evening
just above the entrance of a large creek which we call white
paint Creek. the party were so much fortiegued with their
march and their feet cut with the flint and perced with the
prickly pears untill they become so painfull that he proceeded
but little further before he determined to encamp on the river
and wait my arrival. Capt. C. saw a smoke today up the valley
of Pryor's creek which was no doubt caused by the natives
likewise. he left signals or signs (clothes paper, tape linen)
on his rout in order to inform the indians should they pursue
his trale that we were not their enemies, but white men and
their friends.

The Courses and distances July 20.th 1805.

                     

S. 40° W.	1/2	to a high rock in a Lard. bend in the gates. here the high and perpendicular rocks cease and the Valley widens sudonly to more than it's usual extent since we have entered the Mountains.
S. 55° W.	1	to the center of a Stard. bend at which place a large creek falls in behind some islands on the Stard. side. the Indians set the plains on fire up this Creek. call it Pott's Creek.
S. 64° E.	2 1/2	to the center of a Lard. bend, passing two islands
S. 15° E.	1/4	to the center of a Stard. bend. saw a number of the read head ducks; also several sand hill Crains.
East.	1 1/2	to the center of a Lard. bend, passing 2 small islands on Lard. side.
S. 12° E.	1 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend passing a small Creek on Lard. side at 3/4 of a mile.
S. 50° E.	1 1/4	to the center of a Lard. bend
S. 20° E.	2 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend
S. 65° E.	2.	to a point in a Stard. bend, passing 3 small islands near Lard. at 1 Mile.
N. 75° E.	2.	to the center of a Lard. bend passing an island near
Miles	15.	the extremity of the course and encamped on Lard. side at a spring.—

Point of Observati[on] No [34]

On the Stard. shore at the extremity of the third course of this day,
observed time and distance of ☉'5 and D'5. nearest limbs with Sextant
☉ East.

               

				Time	Distance
				h m s	° ′ ″
			A. M.	10. 22. 16	76. 38. –.
				". 24. 38	". 36. 45.
	Time.	Distance.		Time.	Distance.
	h m s	° ′ ″		h m s	° ′ ″
A. M.	10. 35. 38	76. 26. 30.	A. M.	10. 38. 13	76. 25. –.
	". 37. 3	". 25. 45.		". 39. 34	". 24. 45

Having lost my post Meridian Observations for Eql. Altitudes in consequence
of a cloud which obscured the sun for several minutes about
that time, I had recourse to two altitudes of the sun with Sextant.

Point of observations No. 35.

On Stard. shore five miles short of the encampment of this evening
observed 2 Altds. of ☉. L. L.

       

	Time	Altitudes.
	h m s	° ′ ″
P. M.	3. 10. 39	98. 48.15.
	4. 49. 34	66°. 17. 45.

[Clark:]

July 20th. Satturday 1805

a fine Morning we proceded on thro' a valley leaveing the
river about 6 miles to our left and fell into an Indian roade
which took us to the river above the mo. of a Creek 18 Miles
The Misquetors verry troublesom my man York nearly tired
out, the bottoms of my feet blistered. I observe a Smoke
rise to our right up the Valley of the last Creek about 12 miles
distant, The Cause of this Smoke I can't account for certainly
tho' think it probable that the Indians have heard the Shooting
of the Partey below and Set the Praries or Valey on fire to
allarm their Camps; Supposeing our party to be a war party
comeing against them, I left Signs to Shew the Indians if
they should come on our trail that we were not their enemeys.
Camped on the river, the feet of the men with me So Stuck
with Prickley pear & cut with the Stones that they were
Scerseley able to march at a Slow gate this after noon

[Lewis:]

Sunday July 21st 1805.

Set out early this morning and passed a bad rappid where
the river enters the mountain about 1. M. from our camp of
last evening the Clifts high and covered with fragments of
broken rocks. the current strong; we employed the toe rope
principally; and also the poles as the river is not now so deep
but reather wider and much more rapid our progress was therefore
slow and laborious. we saw three swans this morning,
which like the geese have not yet recovered the feathers of
the wing and could not fly we killed two of them the third
escaped by diving and passed down with the current; they
had no young ones with them therefore presume they do not
breed in this country these are the first we have seen on the
river for a great distance. we daily see great numbers of gees
with their young which are perfectly feathered except the wings
which are deficient in both young and old. My dog caught
several today, as he frequently dose. the young ones are very
fine, but the old gees are poor and unfit for uce. saw several
of the large brown or sandhill Crain today with their young.
the young Crain is as large as a turkey and cannot fly they are
of a bright red bey colour or that of the common deer at this
season. this bird feeds on grass prinsipally and is found in
the river bottoms. the grass near the river is lofty and green
that of the hill sides and high open grounds is perfectly
dry and appears to be scorched by the heat of the sun. the
country was rough mountainous & much as that of yesterday
untill towards evening when the river entered a beautifull and
extensive plain country of about 10 or 12 miles wide which
extended upwards further that the eye could reach this valley
is bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains
which have their summits partially covered with snow. below
the snowey region pine succeeds and reaches down their sides
in some parts to the plain but much the greater portion of
their surfaces is uncovered with timber and expose either a
barren sterile soil covered with dry parched grass or black and
rugged rocks. the river immediately on entering this valley
assumes a different aspect and character, it spreads to a mile
and upwards in width, crouded with Islands, some of them

large; is shallow enough for the use of the seting pole in
almost every part and still more rappid than before; it's
bottom is smooth stones and some large rocks as it has been
since we have entered the mountains. the grass in these
extensive bottoms is green and fine, about 18 inches or 2 feet
high. the land is a black rich loam and appears very fertile.
we encamped in this beatifull valley on the Lard. side[18] the
party complain of being much fatiegued with this days travel.
we killed one deer today.

This morning we passed a bold creek 28 yds. wide which falls
in on Stard. side. it has a handsome and an extensive valley.
this we called Pryor's Creek after Sergt. John[19] Pryor one of
our party. I also saw two fesants (Phesants)[20] today of a dark
brown colour much larger than the phesant of the U'States.

this morning Capt. Clark having determined to hunt and
wait my arrival somewhere about his prese[n]t station was
fearfull that some indians might still be on the river above
him sufficiently near to hear the report of his guns and therefore
proceeded up the river about three miles and [not] finding
any indians nor discovering any fresh appearance of them
returned about four miles below and fixed his camp near the
river; after refreshing themselves with a few hours rest they
set out in different directions to hunt. Capt C. killed a buck
and Fields a buck and doe. he caught a young curlooe which
was nearly feathered. the musquetoes were equally as troublesome
to them as to ourselves this evening; tho' some hours
after dark the air becomes so cold that these insects disappear.
the men are all fortunately supplyed with musquetoe biers
(made of duck or gauze, like a trunk to get under) otherwise it
would be impossible for them to exist under the fatiegues
which they daily encounter without their natural rest which

they could not obtain for those tormenting insects if divested
of their biers. timber still extreemly scant on the river but
there is more in this valley than we have seen since we entered
the mountains; the creeks which fall into the river are better
supplyed with this article than the river itself.

Courses and distances July 21st. 1805.

               

S. 5°. W.	1/2	to a Lard. point opposite an Island
S. 30°. E.	1	to the center of a Lard. bend, the hills now become low and the country opens on either side.
S. 25°. W.	3.	to the center of a Stard. bend passing a large island on Lard. side at one mile.
S. 80°. E.	3 1/2	to a point in the Stard. bend passing a large creek 28 Yds. wide on Stard. side at 2 1/2 Miles Pryor's Creek. 15 yds. wide.
N. 40°. E.	1.	to the center of a Lard. bend.
S. 65°. E.	3.	to the center of a Stard. bend
S. 60°. E.	3 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend throughout this course
Miles	15 1/2	the river is divided by a number of islands near the Stard. side, on the Lard. wide bottoms. encamped on Lard. in the bottom.

Point of Observation No. 36.

On the Lard. side of the Missouri 1/2 a mile above the extremity of
the 2ed. course of this day observed time and distance of ☉'s and D's
nearest limbs with Sextant ☉ East.

           

	Time	Distance		Time	Distance
	h m s.	° ′ ″		h m s.
A. M.	8. 35. 31	63. 54. 30.	A. M.	8. 41.36	63. 50. 15.
	". 36. 44	". 54. –.		". 43. 31	". 50. –.
	". 38. 20	". 52. 30.		". 44. 49	". 49. 45
	". 40. 24	". 51. 15.		". 46. 10	". 49. 15.

Also Observed Equal altitudes of ☉ with Sextant.

       

	h m s		h m s
A. M.	8. 50. 44.	P. M.	4. 21. 1.	Altitude at the time of observation. ° ′ ″ 75. 29. 3.
	". 52. 17		". 22. 18
	". 53. 52.		". 24. 7.

Point of Observation No. 37.

   

On the Lard. side of the river at the extremity of the fourth course of this day; observed Meridian Altitude of ☉'s. L. L. with Octant by back observation	° ′ ″ 57. 14. –. ° ′ ″
Latitude deduced from this observation.	46. 10. 32.9

We saw a number of trout today since the river has become
more shallow; also caught a fish of a white colour on the belly
and sides and of a bluish cast on the back which had been
accedentally wounded by a setting pole. it had a long pointed
mouth which opened somewhat like the shad.[21]

[Clark:]

July 21st. Sunday 1805

a fine morning our feet So brused and cut that I deturmined
to delay for the Canoes, & if possible kill Some meet
by the time they arrived, all the Creeks which fall into the
Missouri on the Std. Side Since entering the Mountains have
extencive valies of open Plain, the river bottoms contain
nothing larger than a Srub untill above the last Creek, the
Creeks & runs have timber on them generally, the hills or
mountains are in Some places thickly covered with pine &
Cedar &c. &c. I proceeded on about 3 miles this morning
finding no fresh Indian Sign returned down the river four
miles and Camped, turned out to hunt for Some meat, which
if we are Suck[c]essfull will be a Seasonable Supply for the
partey assending, emence quantities of Sarvice buries, yellow,
red, Purple & black currents ripe and Superior to any I ever
tasted particularly the yellow & purple kind. Choke Cheries
are Plenty; Some Gooseburies. The wild rose Continue,
the Willow more abundant no cotton wood of the common
kind. Small birds are plenty. Some Deer, Elk, Goats, and
Ibex; no buffalow in the Mountains. Those mountains are
high and a great perportion of them rocky: Vallies firtile I
observe on the highest pinecals of some of the Mountains to
the West Snow lying in Spots Some Still further North are
covered with Snow and cant be Seen from this point

The Winds in those mountains are not settled, generally
with the river, to day the wind blow hard from the West at
the Camp. The Missouri Continus its width the Current
Strong and crouded with little Islands and Co[ar]se graveley
bars, but little fine Sand: The Chanel generally a Corse
gravel or Soft mud. Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom.
I killed a Buck, and J. Fields killed a Buck and Doe this
evening. Cought a young Curlough.

[Lewis:]

Monday July 22d. 1805.

We set out early as usual. The river being divided into
such a number of channels by both large and small Island[s]
that I found it impossible to lay it down correctly following
one channel only in a canoe and therefore walked on shore
took the general courses of the river and from the rising
grounds took a view of the Islands and it's different channels
which I laid do[w]n in conformity thereto on my chart. there
being but little timber to obstruct my view I could see it's
various meanders very satisfactorily. I passed through a large
Island which I found a beautifull level and fertile plain about
10 feet above the surface of the water and never overflown.
on this Island I met with great quantities of a smal onion[22] about
the size of a musquit ball and some even larger; they were
white crisp and well flavored I geathered about half a bushel
of them before the canoes arrived. I halted the party for
breakfast and the men also geathered considerable quantities of
those onions. it's seed had just arrived to maturity and I
gathered a good quantity of it. this appears to be a valuable
plant inasmuch as it produces a large quantity to the squar foot
and bears with ease the rigor of this climate, and withall I think
it as pleasantly flavored as any species of that root I ever
tasted. I called this beatiful and fertile island after this plant
Onion. Islands. here I passed over to the Stard. shore where the
country was higher and ascended the river to the entrance to a
large creek which discharges itself into the Missouri on the
Stard. side. it is composed of three pretty considerable creeks

which unite in a beautifull and extensive vally a few miles
before it discharges itself into the river. while wateing for the
canoes to arrive I kiled an otter which sunk to the bottom on
being shot, a circumstance unusual with that anamal. the water
was about 8 feet deep yet so clear that I could see it at the
bottom; I swam in and obtained it by diving. I halted the
party here for dinner; the canoes had taken different channels
through these islands and it was sometime before they all came
up. I placed my thermometer in a good shade as was my custom
about 4. P. M. and after dinner set out without it and had
proceeded near a mile before I recollected it I sent Sergt. Ordway
back for it, he found it and brought it on. the murcury
stood at 80 a.o this is the warmest day except one which we
have experienced this summer. The Indian woman recognizes
the country and assures us that this is the river on which her
relations live, and that the three forks are at no great distance.
this peice of information has cheered the sperits of the party
who now begin to console themselves with the anticipation of
shortly seeing the head of the missouri yet unknown to the
civilized world. the large creek which we passed on Stard.
15 yds. we call White Earth Creek[23] from the circumstance of the
natives procuring a white paint on this crek. Saw many gees,
crains, and small birds common to the plains, also a few phesants
and a species of small curlooe or plover of a brown colour
which I first met with near the entrance of Smith's river but
they are so shy and watchfull there is no possibility of geting a
shoot at them it is a different kind from any heretofore
discribed and is about the size of the yellow leged plover or
jack Curlooe.[24] both species of the willow that of the broad
leaf and narrow leaf still continue, the sweet willow is very
scarce. the rose bush, small honesuckle, the pulpy leafed
thorn, southernwood, sage Box alder narrow leafed cottonwood,
red w[o]od, a species of sumac are all found in abundance as
well as the red and black goosberries, service berries, choke
cherries and the currants of four distinct colours of black,
yellow, red and perple. the cherries are not yet ripe. the
bear appear to feed much on the currants. late this evening
we arrived at Capt. C[l]arks camp on the Stard. side of the river;
we took them on board with the meat they had collected and proceeded
a short distance and encamped on an Island Capt. Clark's
party had killed a deer and an Elk today and ourselves one
deer and an Antelope only. altho' Capt C. was much fatiegued
his feet yet blistered and soar he insisted (determined) on pursuing
his rout in the morning nor weould he consent willingly to
my releiving him at that time by taking a tour of the same
kind. finding him anxious I readily consented to remain with
the canoes, he ordered Frazier and Jo. & Reubin Fi[e]lds to
hold themselves in readiness to accompany him in the morning.
Sharbono was anxious to accompany him and was accordingly
permitted. the musquetoes and knats more than usually
troublesome to us this evening.

Cou[r]ses and distances of July 22.ed 1805.

             

N. 75°. E.	2 1/4	to a Lard. bend 1 M. above a large Island
S. 34°. E.	3.	to the center of a Stard. bend at the upper point of Onion Island.
S. 80°. E.	1 1/2	to a Stard. bend passing several Islands.
N. 45°. E.	1.	to a Lard. bend passing several Islands
S. 25°. E.	6.	passing four long circular bends and severral large islands to a point of the bluff on Stard. side; a large creek well timbered falls in on Stard. side 3/4 of a mile below the extremity of this course. whiteearth C.
S. 12°. E.	6.	to a bluff point on the Stard. side; this course and distance forms the cord line to a general circular bend of the river, which is formed of 4 other bends, and from the center of which, a line drawn N. 70°. E. 3 miles will intersect the center of the general bend of the
Miles	19 3/4	river 4 miles short of the extremity of this course by water we encamped on an Isld.

[Clark:]

July 22d″ Monday 1805

a fine morning wind from the S.E. the last night verry
cold, my blanket being Small I lay on the grass & covered

with it. I opened the bruses & blisters of my feet which
caused them to be painfull dispatched all the men to hunt
in the bottom for Deer, deturmined my Self to lay by & nurs
my feet. haveing nothing to eat but Venison and Currents,
I find my Self much weaker than when I left the Canoes and
more inclined to rest & repose to day. These men were not
Suckcessfull in hunting killed only one Deer Capt Lewis &
the Party arvd. at 4 oClock & we all proceeded on a Short
distance and Camped on an Island, the Musquitors verry
troublesom this evening G Drewyer not knowing the place
we camped Continued on up the river. I deturmined to proceed
on in pursute of the Snake Indians on tomorrow and
directed Jo[and]Ruben Fields [and] Frasure to get ready to
accompany me. Shabono, our interpreter requested to go,
which was granted &c. In my absence the hunters had killed
Some Deer & a Elk, one fusee found &c. &c.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday July 23rd. 1805.

Set out early as usual; Capt. Clark left us with his little party
of 4 men and continued his rout on the Stard. side of the river.
about 10'OCk. A.M. we came up with Drewyer who had seperated
from us yesterday evening and lay out all night not being
able to find where we had encamped. he had killed 5 deer
which we took on board and continued our rout. the river
is still divided by a great number of islands, it[s] channels
sometimes seperating to the distance of 3 miles; the current
very rapid with a number of riffles; the bed gravel and smooth
stones; the banks low and of rich loam in the bottoms; some
low bluffs of yellow and red clay with a hard red slate stone
intermixed. the bottoms are wide and but scantily timbered;
the underbrush very thick consisting of the narrow & broad
leafed willow rose and Currant bushes principally. high plains
succeed the river bottoms and extend back on either side to
the base of the mountains which are from 8 to 12 miles assunder,
high, rocky, some small pine and Cedar on them and
ly parallel with the river. passed a large creek on Lard. side

20 yds. wide which after meandering through a beautifull and
extensive bottom for several miles nearly parallel with the
river discharges itself opposite to a large cluster of islands
which from their number I called the 10 islands and the creek
Whitehous's Creek, after Josph. Whitehouse one of the party.[25]
saw a great abundance of the common thistle; also a number
of the wild onions of which we collected a further supply.
there is a species of garlic also which grows on the high lands
with a flat leaf now green and in blos. but is strong tough and
disagreeable. found some seed of the wild flax ripe which I
preserved; this plant grows in great abundance in these bottoms.
I halted rearther early for dinner today than usual in
order to dry some articles which had gotten wet in several of
the canoes. I ordered the canoes to hoist their small flags in
order that should the indians see us they might discover that
we were not Indians, nor their enemies. we made great uce
of our seting poles and cords the uce of both which the river
and banks favored. most of our small sockets were lost, and
the stones were so smooth that the points of their poles sliped
in such manner that it increased the labour of navigating the
canoes very considerably, I recollected a parsel of giggs which
I had brought on, and made the men each atatch one of these
to the lower ends of their poles with strong wire, which answered
the desired purpose. we saw Antelopes Crain gees
ducks beaver and Otter. we took up four deer which Capt.
Clark & party had killed and left near the river. he pursued
his rout untill late in the evening and encamped on the bank
of the river 25 Ms. above our encampment of the last evening;
he followed an old indian road which lyes along the river on
the stard. side. Capt. [Clark] saw a number of Antelopes, and
one herd of Elk. also much sign of the indians but all of
ancient date. I saw the bull rush and Cattail flag today.

Courses and distances of July 23rd. 1805.

                         

S. 20°. E.	2.	to a point of the Stard. bluff. passing several islds.
N. 60°. E.	1 1/2	to a lard. bend. passing a large island on Stard.
S. 30°. E.	1 1/2	to a stard. bend passing the upper point of the island at 1/2 a mile and two other small ones on it's lower end. a large creek falls in on Lard. behind 20 yds. wide call it Whitehouse's Creek.
S. 70°. E.	1 3/4	to a Lard. bend passing several outlets to the river on Stard. and through an assemblage of islands
S. 5°. E.	1 1/2	to the lower point of an island. the river 300 yds. wide at this place.
S. 20°. E.	2.	to the center of a Lard. bend passing the upper pt. of the island on Stard. at 1 1/4 M. and a small isld. on Lard. near the extremity of this course.
S. 10°. W.	1 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend
S. 80°. E.	1	to a point in the Stard. bend.
N. 85°. E.	3.	to a tree in a Lard. bend passing two small islds.
S. 20°. W.	3.	to a Stard. bend passing over a large island; called it broad Island.
N. 70°. E.	1 1/2	to a point of high timber on Stard. side.
S. 20°. W.	2.	to some dead timber in the center of a Stard bend just
Miles	22 1/4	above which we encamped on an island on Lard. opposite to a large isld. on Stard.[26]

I saw a black snake today about two feet long the belly of
which was as black as any other part or as jet itself. it had 128
scuta on the belley 63 on the tail.[27]

[Clark:]

July 23rd″ Tuesday 1805

a fair morning wind from the South I Set out by land at
6 miles overtook G. Drewyer who had killed a Deer. we
killed in the Same bottom 4 deer & a antilope & left them on
the river bank for the Canoes proceeded on an Indian roade
through a wide Vallie which the Missouri Passes about 25

miles & camped on the bank of the river, High mountains
on either Side of the Vallie Containing Scattering Pine & Cedar,
Some Small Cotton-willow Willow &c. on the Islands & bank
of the river I saw no fresh Sign of Indians to day Great
number of antelopes Some Deer & a large Gangue of Elk

[Lewis:]

Wednesday July 24th. 1805.

Set out at sunrise; the current very strong; passed a remarkable
bluff of a crimson coloured earth[28] on Stard. intermixed with
Stratas of black and brick red slate. the valley through which
the river passed today is much as that of yesterday nor is there
any difference in the appearance of the mountains, they still
continue high and seem to rise in some places like an amphetheater
one rang[e] above another as they receede from the
river untill the most distant and lofty have their tops clad with
snow. the adjacent mountains commonly rise so high as to
conceal the more distant and lofty mountains from our view.
I fear every day that we shall meet with some considerable falls
or obstruction in the river notwithstanding the information of
the Indian woman to the contrary who assures us that the river
continues much as we see it. I can scarcely form an idea of a
river runing to great extent through such a rough mountainous
country without having it's stream intersepted by some difficult
and dangerous rappids or falls. we daily pass a great number
of small rappids or riffles which decend one t[w]o or 3 feet in
150 yards but we are rarely incommoded with fixed or standing
rocks and altho' strong rappid water [they] are nevertheless
quite practicable & by no means dangerous. we saw many
beaver and some otter today; the former dam up the small
channels of the river between the islands and compell the river
in these parts to make other channels; which as soon as it has
effected that which was stoped by the beaver becomes dry and
is filled up with mud sand gravel and driftwood. the beaver is
then compelled to seek another spot for his habitation wher[e]
he again erects his dam. thus the river in many places among

the clusters of islands is constantly changing the direction of
such sluices as the beaver are capable of stoping or of 20 yds. in
width. this anamal in that way I beleive to be very instrumental
in adding to the number of islands with which we find
the river crouded. we killed one deer today and found a goat
or Antelope which had been left by Capt. Clark. we saw a large
bear but could not get a shoot at him. we also saw a great
number of Crains & Antelopes, some gees and a few redheaded
ducks. the small birds of the plains and curloos still
abundant. we observed a great number of snakes about the
water of a brown uniform colour, some black, and others
speckled on the abdomen and striped with black and brownish
yellow on the back and sides. the first of these is the largest
being about 4 feet long, the second is of that kind mentioned
yesterday, and the last is much like the garter snake of our
country and about it's size.[29] none of these species are poisonous
I examined their teeth and f[o]und them innocent. they
all appear to be fond of the water, to which they fly for shelter
immediately on being pursued. we saw much sign of Elk but
met with none of them. from the appearance of bones and
excrement of old date the buffaloe sometimes straggle into this
valley; but there is no fresh sighn of them and I begin [to]
think that our harvest of white puddings is at an end, at least
untill our return to the buffaloe country. our trio of pests
still invade and obstruct us on all occasions, these are the Musquetoes
eye knats and prickley pears, equal to any three curses
that ever poor Egypt laiboured under, except the Mahometant
yoke. the men complain of being much fortiegued. their
labour is excessively great. I occasionly encourage them by
assisting in the labour of navigating the canoes, and have
learned to push a tolerable good pole in their fraize [phrase].
This morning Capt. Clark set out early and pursued the Indian
road which took him up a creek some miles abo[u]t 10 A.M.
he discovered a horse about six miles distant on his left, he
changed his rout towards the horse, on approaching him he
found the horse in fine order but so wild he could not get
within less than several hundred paces of him. he still saw
much indian sign but none of recent date. from this horse he
directed his course obliquely to the river where on his arrival
he killed a deer and dined. in this wide valley where he met
with the horse he passed five handsome streams, one of which
only had timber another some willows and much stoped by
the beaver. after dinner he continued his rout along the river
upwards and encamped having traveled about 30 Mls.

Courses and distances of the 24th. July 1805.

                             

S. 40°. E.	1.	to a Lard. bend. passing between two large islands
S. 50°. W.	1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend opposite to an Island
S. 15°. E.	1 1/2	to a point of high timber in a Lard. bend. opposite to an island.
S. 40°. W.	1 1/4	to the center of a Stard. bend low bluffs touching the river at this point, a small run[30] just below.
South	3 1/2	to a bluff point in a Stard. bend passing a small island on Stard. and a bluff of crimson earth & slate.
S. 85°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend opposite to a large Island
S. 30°. E.	1.	to a bluff point in a Stard. bend passing an Isld.
East.	3/4.	to a point in a Lard. bend passing a small Isld.
S. 30°. E.	3.	to the lower point of a large island.
S. 85°. E.	1 1/2	to a tree in a lard. bend. passing an assemblage of isds.
South.	1/2	to a tree on the Stard. shore opposite to the upper point of an island.
S. 80°. E.	1.	to the center of a Lard. bend passing the upper point of an Island on Lard.
S. 10. W.	1 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend passing an Isld. at 3/4 of a mile
East.	2.	to the center of a Lard. bend passing 2 small islands;
Miles	19 1/2	encamped on Stard. a little short of this course.[31]

Point of Observation No. 38.

On the Stard. side of the Missouri at the extremity of the 8th. course
of this day observed Equal Altitudes of the ☉ with Sextant.

       

	h m s		h m s
A.M.	9. 1. 37	P.M.	4. 6. 20	Altitude at the
	". 3. 10		". 7. 53.	time of Observation ° ′ ″
	". 4. 45		". 9. 30.	79. 8. 15.

[Clark:]

July 24th″ Wednesday 1805

a fine day wind from the NW. I proceeded on up a Creek
on the derection of the Indian road at 10 oClock discovered a
horse 6 miles to my left towards the river as I approached the
horse found him fat and verry wild we could not get near him,
we changed our Derection to the river for water haveing previously
Crossed 5 handsom Streams in one Vallie one only
had any timber on it one other Willows only & a number of
beaver Dams. when I struck the river turned down to kill a
Deer which we dined on & proceeded on up the river a fiew
miles an[d] Campd on th[e] river. the river much like it was
yesterday. the Mountains on either Side appear like the hills
had fallen half down & turned Side upwards the bottoms
narrow and no timber a fiew bushes only.[32]

[Lewis:]

Thursday July 25th. 1805

Set out a an early hour and proceeded on tolerably well
the water still strong and some riffles as yesterday. the country
continues much the same as the two preceeding days. in the
forenoon we saw a large brown bear on an island but he retreated
immediately to the main shore and ran off before we
could get in reach of him. they appear to be more shy here
than on the Missouri below the mountains. we saw some
antelopes of which we killed one. these anamals appear now
to have collected again is [in] small herds several females
with their young and one or two males compose the herd
usually. some males are yet soletary or two perhaps together
scattered over the plains which they seen[m] invariably to
prefer to the woodlands. if they happen accedentaly in the
woodlands and are allarmed they run immediately to the plains
seeming to plaise a just confidence in their superior fleetness
and bottom. we killed a couple of young gees which are very

abundant and fine; but as they are but small game to subsist
a party on of our strength I have forbid the men shooting at
them as it waists a considerable quantity of amunition and
delays our progress. we passed Capt. Clark's encampment of
the 23rd. inst. the face of the country, & anamal and vegetable
productions were the same as yesterday, untill late in the evening,
when the valley appeared to termineate and the river was
again hemned in on both sides with high c[r]aiggy and rocky
clifts. soon after entering these hills or low mountains we
passed a number of fine bold springs[33] which burst out underneath
the Lard. clifts near the edge of the water; they wer[e]
very cold and freestone water. we passed a large Crk. today in
the plain country, 25 yds. wide, which discharges itself on the
Stard. side; it is composed of five streams which unite in the
plain at no great distance from the river and have their sou[r]ces
in the Mts. this stream we called Gass's Creek.[34] after Sergt.
Patric Gass one of our party. two rapids near the large springs
we passed this evening were the worst we have seen since that we
passed on entering the rocky Mountain; they were obstructed
with sharp pointed rocks, ranges of which extended quite across
the river. the clifts are formed of a lighter coloured stone
than those below I observed some limestone[s] also in the
bed of the river which seem to have been brought down by the
current as they are generally small and woarn smooth. This
morning Capt. Clark set out early and at the distance of a few
miles arrived at the three forks of the Missouri, here he
found the plains recently birnt on the Stard. side, and the track
of a horse appeared to have passed only about four or five
days. after taking breakfast of some meat which they had
brought with them, examined the rivers, and written me a note
informing me of his intended rout, he continued on up the
North fork, which though not larger than the middle fork,
boar more to the West, and of course more in the direction
we were anxious to pursue. he ascended this stream about
25 miles on Stard. side, and encamped, much fatiegued, his feet
blistered and wounded with the prickley pear thorns. Charbono
gave out, one of his ankles failed him and he was unable
to proceede any further. I observed that the rocks which
form the clifts on this part of the river appear as if they had
been undermined by the river and by their weight had seperated
from the parent hill and tumbled on their sides, the
stratas of rock of which they are composed lying with their
edges up; others not seperated seem obliquely depressed on
the side next the river as if they had sunk down to fill the
cavity which had been formed by the washing and wearing of
the river. I have observed a red as well as a yellow species
of goosberry which grows on the rocky Clifts in open places
of a swe[e]tish pine like flavor, first observed in the neighbourhood
of the falls; at least the yellow species was first observed
there. the red differs from it in no particular except it's colour
and size being somewhat larger; it is a very indifferent fruit,
but as they form a variety of the native fruits of this country
I preserved some of their seeds. musquetoes and knats
troublesome as usual.

Courses and distances of July 25th. 1805.

                     

S. 25°. W.	1.	to the center of a Stard. bend
S. 10°. W.	1 1/4	to a point in a Stard. bend passing a small 1sld Lard. Sd.
S. 5°. W.	3 1/2	to a point in a Stard. bend.
S. 40°. E.	1 1/4	to a tree in the Stard. bend passing a Lard. pot. at 1/2 M
N. 80°. E.	2 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend, passing a small island 1/2 M. on Stard. opposite or behi[n]d which a large Creek discharges itself on Stard. 25 Yds. wide which we call Gass's Creek.
South	3.	to the center of a Stard. bend
S. 75°. E.	1 1/2	to a bluff point on Stard. here the river again enter the mountains, I beleive it to be a second gra chain of the rocky Mots.[35]
S. 55°. E.	1.	to a point in a Lard. bend at some large springs.
S. 30°. E.	1/2	to a point in the Lard. bend, high clifts.
South.	1/2	to a Clift of rocks in a Lard. bend; opst. to which
Miles.	16.	encamped for the night under a high bluff

[Clark:]

July 25th Thursday 1805

a fine morning we proceeded on a fiew miles to the three
forks of the Missouri those three forks are nearly of a Size,
the North fork appears to have the most water and must be
Considered as the one best calculated for us to assend Middle
fork is quit[e] as large about 90 yds. wide. The South fork is
about 70 yds wide & falls in about 400 yards below the midle
fork those forks appear to be verry rapid & contain some
timber in their bottoms which is verry extencive. on the
North Side the Indians have latterly Set the Praries on fire,
the Cause I can't account for. I saw one horse track going up
the river, about four or 5 days past. after Brackfast (which we
made on the ribs of a Buck killed yesterday), I wrote a note
informing Capt. Lewis the rout I intended to take, and proceeded
on up the main North fork thro' a Vallie, the day verry
hot, about 6 or 8 miles up the North fork a Small rapid river
falls in on the Lard Side which affords a great Deel of water
and appears to head in the Snow mountains to the SW. this
little river falls into the Missouri by three mouthes, haveing
Seperated after it arrives in the river Bottoms, and Contains
as also all the water courses in this quarter emence number of
Beaver & orter maney thousand enhabit the river & Creeks
near the 3 forks (Pholosipher's River)[36] We Campd on the
Same Side we assended Starboard 20 miles on a direct line
up the N. fork. Shabono our Intrepreter nearly tired [out]
one of his ankles falling him. The bottoms are extencive and
tolerable land covered with tall grass & prickley pears. The
hills & mountains are high Steep & rockey. The river verry
much divided by Islands, Some Elk Bear & Deer and Some
small timber on the Islands. Great quantities of Currents red,
black, yellow, Purple, also Mountain Currents which grow on
the Sides of Clifts, inferior in taste to the others haveing Sweet
pineish flaver and are red & yellow, Choke Cheries, Boin
roche, and the red buries also abound. Musquetors verry
troublesom untill the Mountain breeze sprung up, which was
a little after night.

[Lewis:]

Friday July 26th. 1805.

Set out early this morning as usual current strong with
frequent riffles; employ the cord and seting poles, the oars
scarcely ever being used except to pass the river in order to
take advantage of the shore and current. at the distance of 3 3/4
M. passed the entrance of a large Creek 15 yds. wide which
discharges itself on Lard. near the center of a Lard. bend it is
a bold runing stream this we called Howards' Creek[37] after
Thomas P. Howard one of our party. at the distance of one
mile further we passed the entrance of a small run which falls
in just above a rocky clift on Lard. here the hills or reather
Mountains again recede from the river and the valley again
widens to the extent of several miles with wide and fertile
bottom lands. covered with grass and in many places a fine
terf of greenswoard. the high lands are thin meagre soil covered
with dry low sedge and a species of grass also dry the
seeds of which are armed with a long twisted hard beard at the
upper extremity while the lower point is a sharp subulate, firm
point beset at it's base with little stiff bristles standing with
their points in a contrary direction to the subulate point to which
they answer as a barb and serve also to pres it forward when
onece entered a small distance. these barbed seed penetrate
our mockersons and leather legings and give us great pain
untill they are removed. my poor dog suffers with them excessively,
he is constantly binting and scratching himself as if
in a rack of pain. the prickly pear also grow here as abundantly
as usual. there is another species of the prickly pear
of a globular form, composed of an assemblage of little conic
leaves springing from a common root to which their small
points are attached as a common center and the base of the
cone forms the apex of the leaf which is garnished with a circular
range of sharp thorns quite as stif and more keen than
the more common species with the flat leaf, like the Cocheneel
plant.[38] on entering this open valley I saw the snowclad tops

of distant mountains before us. the timber and mountains
much as heretofore. saw a number of beaver today and some
otter, killed one of the former, also 4 deer; found a deer's
skin which had been left by Capt. C. with a note informing
me of his having met with a horse but had seen no fresh appearance
of the Indians. the river in the valley is from 2 to
250 yds. wide and crouded with Islands, in some places it is 3/4
of a mile wide including islands. w[h]ere it passed the hills it
was from 150 to 200 yds. the banks are still low but never overflow.
one of the men brought me an indian bow which he
found, it was made of cedar and about 2 F. 9 Inh. in length.
it had nothing remarkable in it's form being much such as is
used by the Mandans Minetares &c. This morning Capt.
Clark left Sharbono and Joseph Fields at the camp of last
evening and proceeded up the river about 12 miles to the top
of a mountain from whence he had an extensive view of the
valley of the river upwards and of a large creek which flowed
into it on Std. side. not meeting with any fresh appearance of
Indians he determined to return and examine the middle fork
of the missouri and meet me by the time he expected me to
arrive at the forks. he returned down the mountain by the
way of an old Indian road which led through a deep hollow
of the mountain facing the south the day being warm and
the road unshaded by timber in the deep valley he suffered
excessively with heat and the want of water, at length he arrived
at a very cold spring, at which he took the precaution of
weting his feet head and hands before [he] drank but notwithstanding
this precaution he soon felt the effects of the water.
he felt himself very unwell shortly after but continued his
march rejoined Sharbono and Fields where the party eat of
a fawn which Jo. Fields had killed in their absence Capt. C.
was so unwell that he had no inclination to eat. after a short
respite he resumed his march pass [ed] the North fork at a
large island; here Charbono was very near being swept away
by the current and cannot swim, Capt. C however risqued him[self]
and saved his life. Capt. C. continued his march to a
small river which falls into the North fork some miles above
the junction of the 3 forks it being the distance of about four
miles from his camp of last evening here finding himself still
more unwell he determined to encamp. they killed two brown
or grisley bear this evening on the island where they passed
the N. fork of the Missouri. this stream is much divided by
islands and it's current rapid and much as that of the missouri
(Qu) where we are and is navigable. emence qty of Beaver

Courses and distances of July 26th. 1805.

                           

N. 45°. W.	1/4	to an object in a Stard. bend
S. 60°. W.	1.	to a point in a Lard. bend passing 9 small Islds.
S. 55°. W.	1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend passing one Ild. and opt. a 2ed.
S. 65°. E.	1.	to a clift of rocks in a Stard. bend passing 2 Islands.
N. 65°. E.	1.	to the entrance of a creek 15 Yds. wide on Lard. in a Lard. bend. we call [it] Howard's Creek. pad. I. Ild.
S. 15°. E.	1.	to the entrance of a small run in a Lard. bend the Monts. here recedes from the river. this run Capt. C. has laid down in mistake for Howard's Creek.
S. 55°. W.	1 1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend
S. 12°. W.	2 1/2	to a point in a Stard. bend
S. 15°. E.	3 1/2	to a point of high timber on the Lard. passing 3 Ids. on Lard.
S. 25°. W.	1.	to the center of a Stard. bend
East	1 1/4	to the center of a Lard. bend passing 3 Islds. on Lard. side
S. 20°. E.	2 1/2	to the center of a Lard. bend passing 4 Islds. on Lard. Sd.
S. 48°. W.	1 1/2	to a rock in the center of a Lard. bend opposite to 2 Islds. where we encamped for the night on Lard. shore.[39]
Miles	16 1/2	[18 1/2]

[Clark:]

July 26th. Friday 1805

I deturmined to leave Shabono & one man who had Sore
feet to rest & proceed on with the other two to the top of a
mountain 12 miles distant west and from thence view the river
& vallies a head, we with great dificuelty & much fatigue
reached the top at 11 oClock from the top of this mountain
I could see the Course of the North fork about 10 miles
meandering through a Vallie but could discover no Indians of

sign which was fresh. I could also See Some distance up the
Small River below, and also the Middle fork. after Satisfying
my Self returned to the two me[n] by an old Indian parth,
on this parth & in the Mountain we came to a Spring of excessive
cold water, which we drank reather freely of as we were
almost famished; not with Standing the precautions of wetting
my face, hands, & feet, I soon felt the effects of the water.
We Contind thro a Deep Vallie without a Tree to Shade us
scorching with heat to the men who had killed a pore Deer,
I was fatigued my feet with Several blisters & Stuck with
prickley pears. I eate but verry little deturmined to cross to
the Middle fork and examine that. we crossed the Missouri
which was divided by a verry large Island the first Part was
knee deep the other waste deep & very rapid, I felt my Self
verry unwell & took up Camp on the little river 3 miles above
its mouth & near the place it falls into the bottom a fiew
Drops of rain this evening.

We killed 2 bear which was imediately in our way. both
pore emence number of Beaver and orter in this little river
which forks in the bottom

[Lewis:]

Saturday July 27th. 1805.—

We set out at an early hour and proceeded on but slowly
the current still so rapid that the men are in a continual state
of their utmost exertion to get on, and they begin to weaken
fast from this continual state of violent exertion. at the distance
of 1 3/4 miles the river was again closely hemned in by
high Clifts of a solid limestone rock which appear to have
tumbled or sunk in the same manner of those I discribed
yesterday. the limestone appears to be of an excellent quality
of deep blue colour when fractured and of a light led colour
where exposed to the weather. it appears to be of a very fine
gr[a] in the fracture like that of marble. we saw a great
number of the bighorn on those Clifts. at the distance of
3 3/4 Ms. further we arrived at 9. A.M. at the junction of the
S.E. fork of the Missouri and the country opens suddonly to
extensive and bea[u]tifull plains and meadows which appear

to be surrounded in every direction with distant and lofty
mountains; supposing this to be the three forks of the Missouri
I halted the party on the Lard. shore for breakfast. and
walked up the S.E. fork about 1/2 a mile and ascended the
point of a high limestone clift from whence I commanded a
most perfect view of the neighbouring country.[40] From this
point I could see the S.E. fork at about 7 miles. it is rapid
and about 70 Yards wide. throughout the distance I saw it,
it passes through a smoth extensive green meadow of fine grass
in it's course meandering in several streams, the largest of
which passes near the Lard. hills, of which, the one I stand on
is the extremity in this direction. a high wide and extensive
plain succeeds the meadow and extends back several miles
from the river on the Stard. side and with the range of mountains
up the Lard. side of the middle fork. a large spring
arrises in this meadow about 1/4 of a mile from the S.E. fork
into which it discharges itself on the Stard. side about 400 paces
above me. from E. to S. between the S.E. and middle forks
a distant range of lofty mountains ran their snow-clad tops
above the irregular and broken mountains which lie adjacent
to this beautifull spot. the extreme point to which I could
see the S.E. fork boar S. 65°. E. distant 7 M. as before observed.
between the middle and S.E. forks near their junction
with the S.W. fork there is a handsom site for a fortification.[41]
it consists of a limestone rock of an oblong form; it's sides
perpendicular and about 25 feet high except at the extremity
towards the middle fork where it ascends gradually and like
the top is covered with a fine terf of greenswoard. the top is
level and contains about 2 Acres. the rock [r]ises from the
level plain as if it had been designed for some such purpose.
the extreem point to which I can see the bottom and meandering
of the Middle fork bears S. 15.E. distant about 14 Miles.
here it turns to the right around a point of a high plain and
disappears to my view. it's bottoms are several miles in width
and like that of the S.E. fork form one smoth and beautifull
green meadow. it is also divided into several streams.
between this and the S.W. fork there is an extensive plain
which appears to extend up both those rivers many miles and
back to the mountains. the extreme point to which I can see
the S.W. fork bears S.30. W. distant about 12 Miles. this
stream passes through a similar country with the other two
and is more divided and serpentine in it's course than either
of the others; it a[l]so possesses abundan[t]ly more timber in
it's bottoms. the timber here consists of the narrowleafed
cottonwood almost entirely. but little box alder or sweet
willow the underbrush thick and as heretofore discribed in
the quarter of the missouri. a range of high mountains at a
considerable distance appear to reach from South to West and
are partially covered with snow the country to the right of
the S.W. fork like that to the left of the S.E. fork is high
broken and mountainous, as is that also down the missouri
behind us, through which, these three rivers after assembling
their united force at this point seem to have forced a passage.
these bottom lands tho' not more than 8 or 9 feet above the
water seem never to overflow. after making a draught of the
connection and meanders of these streams I decended the hill
and returned to the party, took breakfast and ascended the
S.W. fork 1 3/4 miles and encamped at a Lard. bend in a handsome
level smooth plain just below a bayou, having passed the
entrance of the middle fork at 1/2 a mile. here I encamped to
wait the return of Capt. Clark and to give the men a little rest
which seemed absolutely necessary to them. at the junction
of the S.W. and Middle forks I found a note which had been
left by Capt. Clark informing me of his intended rout, and that
he would rejoin me at this place provided he did not fall in
with any fresh sighn of Indians, in which case he intended to
pursue untill he overtook them calculating on my taking the
S.W. fork, which I most certainly prefer as it's direction is
much more promising than any other. beleiving this to be an
essential point in the geography of this western part of the
Continent I determined to remain at all events untill I obtained
the necessary data for fixing it's latitude Longitude &c. after
fixing my camp I had the canoes all unloaded and the baggage
stoed away and securely covered on shore, and then permitted
several men to hunt. I walked down to the middle fork and
examined and compared it with the S.W. fork but could not
satisfy myself which was the largest stream of the two, in fact
they appeared as if they had been cast in the same mould there
being no difference in character or size, therefore to call either
of these streams the Missouri would be giving it a preference
w[h]ich it's size dose not warrant as it is not larger then the
other. they are each 90 yds. wide. in these meadows I saw a
number of the duckanmalla[r]d[42] with their young which are
now nearly grown. Currants of every species as well as goos-berries
are found her[e] in great abundance and perfection. a
large black goosberry which grows to the hight of five or six
feet is also found here. this is the growth of the bottom lands
and is found also near the little rivulets which make down
from the hills and mountains it puts up many stems from the
same root, some of which, are partially branched and all reclining.
the berry is attatched seperately by a long peduncle to
the stem from which they hang pendant underneath. the
berry is of an ovate form smooth as large as the common
garden goosberry when arrived at maturity and is as black as
jet, tho' the pulp is of a c[r]imson colour. this fruit is extreemly
asced. the leaf resembles the common goosberry in
form but is reather larger and somewhat proportioned to the
superior size of it's stem when compared with the common
goosberry. the stem is covered with very sharp thorns or
bryers. below the t[h]ree forks as we passed this morning I
observed many collections of the mud nests of [the] small
martin attatched to the smooth face of the limestone rocks
sheltered by projections of the same rock above. Our hunters
returned this evening with 6 deer 3 Otter and a Musk-rat.
they informed me that they had seen great numbers of Antelopes,
and much sign of beaver otter deer Elk, &c. at 3 P.M.
Capt Clark arrived very sick with a high fever on him and
much fatiegued and exhausted. he informed me that he was
very sick all last night had a high fever and frequent chills &
constant aking pains in all his mustles. this morning notwithstanding
his indisposition he pursued his intended rout to
the middle fork about 8 miles and finding no recent sign of
Indians rested about an hour and came down the middle fork
to this place. Capt. C. thought himself somewhat bilious and
had not had a passage for several days; I prevailed on him to
take a doze of Rushes pills, which I have always found sovereign
in such cases and to bath his feet in warm water and
rest himself. Capt. C's indisposition was a further inducement
for my remaining here a couple of days; I therefore informed
the men of my intention, and they put their deer skins in the
water in order to prepare them for dressing tomorrow. we
begin to feel considerable anxiety with rispect to the Snake
Indians. if we do not find them or some other nation who
have horses I fear the successfull issue of our voyage will be
very doubtfull or at all events much more difficult in it's
accomplishment. we are now several hundred miles within
the bosom of this wild and mountanous country, where game
may rationally be expected shortly to become scarce and subsistence
precarious without any information with rispect to the
country not knowing how far these mountains continue, or
wher to direct our course to pass them to advantage or intersept
a navigable branch of the Columbia, or even were we on
such an one the probability is that we should not find any
timber within these mountains large enough for canoes if we
judge from the portion of them through which we have passed.
however I still hope for the best, and intend taking a tramp
myself in a few days to find these yellow gentlemen if possible.
my two principal consolations are that from our present position
it is impossible that the S.W. fork can head with the
waters of any other river but the Columbia, and that if any
Indians can subsist in the form of a nation in these mountains
with the means they have of acquiring food we can also subsist.
Capt. C. informed me that there is a part of this bottom
on the West side of the Middle fork, near the plain, which
appears to overflow occasionally and is stony.

Courses and distances of July 27th. 1805.

                 

N. 65°. W.	1/2	to the center of a Stard. bend passing an Island.
South	1 1/4	to a clift of high rocks on the Stard. here the river is again confined between high and perpendicular clifts of rock.
S. 2°. E.	2 1/2	to the center of a Lard. bend passing a small Island
S. 45. W.	1 1/4	to the upper point of a high clift of rocks in a Stard. opposite or a little below the entrance of the S.E. fork of the Missouri which we called Gallitin's river in honor of Albert Gallitin Secretary of the Treasury
S. 45°. W.	1/2	to the confluence of the middle and SW. forks of the Missouri each 90 yds. wide; the Middle fork we called Maddison's river in honor of James Maddison the Secretary of State. and the S.W. fork we called Jefferson's River in honor [of] that illustrious per[s]onage Thomas Jefferson President of the United States.
N. 45°. W.	1/4	to the entrance of a Bayou on Stard. side
S. 30°. W.	1/2	to a Stard. bend.
S. 20°. E.	1/4	to the center of a Lard. bend where we encamped on
Miles	7.	Lard. in Camp Island.

[Clark:]

July 27th. Saturday 1805—

I was verry unwell all last night with a high fever & akeing
in all my bones. My fever &c. continus, deturmind to
prosue my intended rout to the Middle fork, accordingly Set
out in great pain across a Prarie 8 miles to the Middle [fork]
this fork is nearly as large as the North fork & appears to be
more rapid, we examined and found no fresh Sign of Indians,
and after resting about an hour proceeded down to the junction
thro a wide bottom which appears to be overflown every year,
& maney parts Stoney. this river has Several Islands and
number of beaver & orter, but little timber, we could See no
fresh Sign of Indians just above the Point I found Capt
Lewis encamped haveing arrived about 2 oClock. Several
Deer killed this evening. I continue to be verry unwell fever
verry high, take 5 of rushes pills & bathe my feet & legs in
hot water