University of Virginia Library

Chapter XIII

FROM THE THREE FORKS OF THE MISSOURI TO
BEAVER'S HEAD

XIII. Lewis's Journal, July 28—August 10, 1805
Clark's Journal, July 28—August 10

[Lewis:]

Sunday July 28th. 1805.

MY friend Capt. Clark was very sick all last night but
feels himself somewhat better this morning since
his medicine has opperated. I dispatched two men
early this morning up the S.E. Fork to examine the river;
and permitted sundry others to hunt in the neighbourhood of
this place. Both Capt. C. and myself corrisponded in opinon
with rispect to the impropriety of calling either of these streams
the Missouri and accordingly agreed to name them after the
President of the United States and the Secretaries of the
Treasury and state having previously named one river in
honour of the Secretaries of War and Navy. In pursuance
of this resolution we called the S.W. fork, that which we
meant to ascend, Jefferson's River in honor of that illustrious
personage Thomas Jefferson. [the author of our enterprize.]
the Middle fork we called Madison's River in honor of James
Madison, and the S.E. Fork we called Gallitin's River in
honor of Albert Gallitin. the two first are 90 yards wide and
the last is 70 yards. all of them run with great volocity and
th[r]ow out large bodies of water. Gallitin's River is reather
more rapid than either of the others, is not quite as deep but
from all appearances may be navigated to a considerable distance.
Capt. C. who came down Madison's river yesterday
and has also seen Jefferson's some distance thinks Madison's
reather the most rapid, but it is not as much so by any means
as Gallitin's. the beds of all these streams are formed of
smooth pebble and gravel, and their waters perfectly transparent;

in short they are three noble streams. there is timber
enough here to support an establishment, provided it be erected
with brick or stone either of which would be much cheaper
than wood as all the materials for such a work are immediately
at the spot. there are several small sand-bars along the shores
at no great distance of very pure sand and the earth appears
as if it would make good brick. I had all our baggage spread
out to dry this morning; and the day proving warm, I had a
small bower or booth erected for the comfort of Capt. C. our
leather lodge when exposed to the sun is excessively hot. I
observe large quantities of the sand rush in these bottoms
which grow in many places as high as a man's breast and stand
as thick as the stalks of wheat usually do. this affords one
of the best winter pastures on earth for horses or cows, and
of course will be much in favour of an establishment should
it ever be thought necessary to fix one at this place. the grass
is also luxouriant and would afford a fine swarth of hay at this
time in parsels of ma[n]y acres together. all those who are
not hunting altho' much fatiegued are busily engaged in dressing
their skins, making mockersons lexing [leggings]&c to
make themselves comfortable. the Musquetoes are more than
usually troublesome, the knats are not as much so. in the
evening about 4 O'Ck the wind blew hard from South West
and after some little time brought on a Cloud attended with
thunder and Lightning from which we had a fine refreshing
shower which cooled the air considerably; the showers continued
with short intervals untill after dark. in the evening
the hunters all returned they had killed 8 deer and 2 Elk,
some of the deer wer[e] in excellent order. those whome I
had sent up Gallitin's river reported that after it passed the
point to which I had seen it yesterday that it turned more to
the East to a considerable distance or as far as they could discover
the opening of the Mountains formed by it's valley
which was many miles. the bottoms were tolerably wide but
not as much so as at or near it's mouth. it's current is rappid
and the stream much divided with islands but is sufficiently
deep for canoe navigation. Our present camp is precisely on
the spot that the Snake Indians were encamped at the time the
Minnetares of the Knife R. first came in sight of them five
years since. from hence they retreated about three miles up
Jeffersons river and concealed themselves in the woods, the
Minnetares pursued, attacked them, killed 4 men 4 women a
number of boys, and mad[e] prisoners of all the females and
four boys, Sah-cah-gar-we-ah o[u]r Indian woman was one
of the female prisoners taken at that time; tho' I cannot discover
that she shews any immotion of sorrow in recollecting
this event, or of joy in being again restored to her native
country; if she has enough to eat and a few trinkets to wear
I beleive she would be perfectly content anywhere.

Point of observation No. 39.

At our encampment on Camp Island, near the junction of the three
forks of the Missouri.

Observed Equal Altitudes of ☉ with Sextant.

       

	h m s		h m s
A.M.	8. 42. 10.	P.M.	4. 21. 46. accurate.	Altd. at the time of Observtns.
	". 43. 42		". 23. 21. doubtfull.	° ′ ″
	". 45. 15		". lost by Clouds	72. 8. 15.

     

Observed Meridian Altitude of ☉'s. L. L. with	° ′ ″
Octant by the back observation	58. 35.—.
Latitude deduced from this observation.	45°. 24′. 54.″

[Clark:]

July 28th. Sunday 1805

I was verry unwell all night, Something better this morning,
a very worm day untill 4 oClock when the wind rose & blew
hard from the SW. and was Cloudy, The Thermonet Stood
at 90° above 0′ in the evening a heavy thunder Shower from
the SW. which continued at intervales untill after dark,
Several deer killed to day men all employed dressing Skins
for Clothes & Mockersons, two men went up the East fork
& reports that it is nearly the Size of the N. fork, verry rapid
& has maney Islands. Our present Camp is the prosize Spot
the Snake Indians were Camped at the time the Minetarries
came in Sight, attacked & killed 4 men 4 women & a number
of boys, & made prisoners of all the females & 4 boys.

[Lewis]

Monday July 29th. 1805.

This morning some of the hunters turned out and returned
in a few hours with four fat bucks, the venison is now very
fine we have killed no mule deer since we lay here, they are
all of the longtailed red deer which appear qu[i]te as large as
those of the United States. the hunters brought in a living
young sandhill crain; it has nearly obtained it's growth but
cannot fly; they had pursued it and caught it in the meadows.
it's colour is precisely that of the red deer. we see a number
of the old or full grown crains of this species feeding in these
meadows. this young animal is very f[i]erce and strikes a
severe blow with his beak; after amusing myself with it I had
it set at liberty and it moved off apparently much pleased with
being releived from his captivity. the men have been busily
engaged all day in dising [dressing] skins and making them
into various garments all are leather dressers and taylors. we
see a great abundance of fish in the stream some of which we
take to be trout but they will not bite at any bate we can offer
them. the King fisher is common on the river since we have
left the falls of the Missouri. we have not seen the summer
duck since we left that place, nor do I believe that it is an inhabitant
of the Rocky mountains. the Duckanmallard were
first seen with their young on the 20th. inst. and I forgot to note
it; they are now abundant with their young but do not breed
in the missouri below the mountains. the grasshopers and
crickets are abundant in the plains as are also the small birds
frequently mentioned. there is also in these plains a large
ant with a redish brown body and legs, and a black head and
abdomen; they construct little perimids of small gravel in a
conic shape, about 10 or 12 inches high without a mixture of
sticks and with but little earth. Capt. Clark is much better
today, is perfectly clear of fever but still very languid and
complains of a general soarness in all his limbs. I prevailed
on him to take the barks which he has done and eate tolerably
freely of our good venison.

Today I continued my observations. ☉'s. magnetic Azimuth.

 

Time by Chronometer}

{Azimuth by Circumferentor}

{Altitude of ☉. L. L. with Sextant.

     

	h m s	°	° ′ ″
A.M.	8. 48. 9	N. 85. E.	73.—.—.
	8. 53. 57	N. 86. E.	74. 58. 15.

Observed Equal Altitudes of the Sun with Sextant.

     

A.M.	8. 57. 5.5	P.M.	4. 5. 50.	Altitude by Sextant at the time of Observts.
	". 58. 41.		". 7. 24.	° ′ ″
	9.—. 14.		". 8. 59	77. 4. 45.

   

Observed Meridian Altitude of the ☉'s. L.L. with	° ′ ″
Octant by the back observation	59. 7.—.

       

		° ′ ″
Latitude deduced from this observation	N.	45. 23. 23.1.
		° ′ ″
Mean Latitude from 2 Merds. Altds. of ☉'s. L.L.	N.	45. 24. 8.5

Observed time and Distance of ☉'s. and D's. nearest Limbs with
Sextant. ☉West.

                                           

	Time	Distance.
	h m s	° ′ ″
P.M.	4. 14. 42	49. 43. 30.
	". 17. 24	". 44.—.
	". 19. 34	". 44. 45.
	". 21. 12	". 45.—.
	". 22. 9	". 45. 54.
	". 23. 12	". 46. 30.
	". 24. 14	". 46. 45.
	". 25. 18	". 47.—.
	". 26. 26	". 47. 15.
	". 27. 24	". 47. 30.
	4. 45. 25.	49. 54.—.
	". 46. 37.	". 54. 45.
	". 47. 40.	". 55. 15
	". 48. 52.	". 55. 45.
	". 49. 47.	". 56. 15.
	". 50. 44.	". 56. 45.
	". 51. 36.	". 57. 15
	". 52. 36.	". 57. 45.
	". 53. 37.	". 58.—.
	". 54. 36.	". 58. 15.

Observed Magnetic Azimuth of the Sun.

 

Time By Chronometer }

{Azimuth by Circumfert.}

{Altitude of ☉'s. L.L. by Sextant.

     

	h m s	°	° ′ ″
P. M.	5. 7. 47.	S. 72. W.	55. 44. 30.
	5. 13. 4.	S. 73. W.	53. 52. 45.

Observed time and Distance of D's Western limb from a Antares, with
Sextant * East.

                       

	Time	Distance
	h m s	° ′ ″
P.M.	8. 42. 16	68. 56.—.
	". 50. 55	". 52. 30
	". 54. 44.	". 49. 45
	". 55. 56	". 49.—.
	". 58. 53	". 47. 15.
	9. 1. 12	68. 46.—.
	". 3. 1	". 45. 30.
	". 4. 47	". 45.—.
	". 6. 27	". 44.—.
	". 8. 31	". 13. 45.

Observed the Azimuth of the Pole Star.

     

Time by Chronometer	Azimuth by Circumferenter
h m
P. M. 9. 27.	N. 13°. W.

[Clark:]

July 29 Monday 1805

A fair morning wind from the North I feel my Self something
better to day, made some Celestial observations took
two Merdn. altitudes which gave for Lat.d 45° 22′ 34″ N men
all dressing skins&c.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday July 30th. 1805.

Capt. Clark being much better this morning and having
completed my observations we reloaded our canoes and set
out, ascending Jeffersons river. Sharbono, his woman two invalleds
and myself walked through the bottom on the Lard. side
of the river about 4 1/2 miles when we again struck it at the place
the woman informed us that she was taken prisoner. here we
halted until Capt. Clark arrived which was not untill after one
P. M. the water being strong and the river extreemly crooked.
we dined and again proceeded on; as the river now passed
through the woods the invalleds got on board together with
Sharbono and the Indian woman; I passed the river and continued
my walk on the Stard. side. saw a vast number of
beaver in many large dams which they had maid in various
bayoes of the river which are distributed to the distance of
three or four miles on this side of the river over an extensive

bottom of timbered and meadow lands intermixed. in order
to avoid these bayoes and beaver dams which I fou[n]d difficult
to pass I directed my course to the high plain to the right
which I gained after some time with much difficulty and waiding
many beaver dams to my waist in mud and water. I
would willingly have joined the canoes but the brush were
so thick, the river crooked and bottoms intercepted in such
manner by the beaver dams, that I found it uceless to attempt
to find them, and therefore proceeded on up the river in order
to intersept it where it came near the plain and woult be more
collected into one channel. at length about sunset I arrived
at the river only about six miles from my calculation on a
direct line from the place I had left the canoes but I thought
they were still below me. I found the river was divided where
I reached it by an Island and was therefore fearfull that they
might pass without my seeing them, and went down to the
lower point of the large island; here I discovered a small
Island, close under the shore on which I was; I passed the
narrow channel to the small island and examined the gravly
bar along the edge of the river for the tracks of the men,
knowing from the appearance of the river at this place that if
they had passed they would have used the cord on the side
where I was. I saw no tracks and was then fully convinced
that they were below me. I fired my gun and hallooed but
counld hear nothing of them. by this time it was getting
nearly dark and a duck lit on the shore in about 40 steps of
me and I killed it; having now secured my supper I looked
our for a suitable place to amuse myself in combating the
musquetoes for the ballance of the evening. I found a parsel
of drift wood at the head of the little Island on which I was
and immediately set it on fire and collected some willow brush
to lye on. I cooked my duck which I found very good and
after eating it layed down and should have had a comfortable
nights lodge but for the musquetoes which infested me all
night. late at night I was awakened by the nois of some
animal runing over the stoney bar on which I lay but did not
see it; from the weight with which it ran I supposed it to be
either an Elk or a brown bear. the latter are very abundant
in this neighbourhood. the night was cool but I felt very
little inconvenience from it as I had a large fire all night.
Capt. Clark had proceeded on after I seperated from him and
encamped on a islad. only about 2 miles below me but did not
hear the report of my gun nor of my hooping. I saw some
deer and antelopes.

The Courses and distances of July 30th. 1805.

                                                         

N. 70°. W.	1/4	to a Stard. bend, passing timber on both sides
S. 20°. W.	1/2	to a Stard. bend passing an Island.
S. 80°. E.	1/4	to a Lard. bend.
S. 50.°. W.	1/2	to the lower point of an Island.
South	1/2	to a Lard. bend
S. 45°. W.	1/8	to a tree in the Lard. bend
N. 45°. W.	1/4	to the upper point of an island
West	1/2	to a Lard. bend opposite an Island
N. 60°. W.	1/8	to a channel passing through the Island
South –	1/4	to a Lard. bend opposite to an Island, passing severall small Bayous on the Lard. side.
West	1/2	to the upper point of an Island passing a Bayou on the Lard. side.
S. 70°. W.	1/4	to the entrance of a Bayou on Lard. side
West	1	to the upper point of an Island, passing the upper point of another Island 1/4, one at 3/4 and two bayous on Lard. side.
S. 60°. W.	1.	to a high bank in a Stard. bend.
S. 35°. W.	3/4	to a the upper point of a bluff in a Stard. bend opposite to an Island.
S. 45°. E.	3/4	to a Lard. bend, passing the upr. pt. of an Isld. and a bayou Lard.
S. 35°. W.	1/4	to a Lard. bend opposite an Island.
West .	1/4	to a Stard. bend opposite an Isld. having passed another
S. 30°. W.	3/4	to an Island in a Stard. bend opposite a high plain Stard.
S. 20°. W.	1 1/4	to a clift rocks under a mountain Stard. side having passed an Island.
South	1/2	to a point on the Stard. side.
S. 30°. W.	1/4	to a high clift of craiggey rocks on the Stard. opt. 1 Isd.
S. 45°. W.	1/8	to a Stard. bend under a Clift.
S. 45°. E.	1/4	to a Bayou in a Lard. bend passing an Island.
S. 60°. W.	1/8	to a Bayou in a Stard. bend above an Island
S. 50°. E.	1/4	to a Bayou in a Lard. bend, opposite several small Islds.
S. 45°. W.	1/4	to the mouth of a Bayou in a Lard. bend.
S. 20°. W.	1/4	to a Bayou in a Lard. bend, passing the upper point of an Isld. on Lard.
S. 70°. W.	1/4	to a Stard. bend where the party encamped for the night

[Clark:]

July 30th. Monday 1805

We Set out 8 oClock and proceeded on 13 1/2 miles up the
N. fork the river verry rapid & Sholey the Channel entirely
Corse gravel many Islands and a number of Chanels in
different directions thro' the bottom &c. Passed the place the
Squar interpretress was taken, one man with his Sholder
Strained, 2 with Tumers, we Camped on the Std. Side the
evening Cool. Capt Lewis who walkd on Shore did not join
me this evening

[Lewis:]

Wednesday July 31st. 1805.

This morning I waited at my camp very impatiently for the
arrival of Capt. Clark and party; I observed by my watch t[h]at
it was 7. A. M. and they had not come in sight. I now became
very uneasy and determined to wait until 8 and if they did not
arrive by that time to proceed on up the river taking it as a
fact that they had passed my camp some miles last evening.
just as I set out to pursue my plan I discovered Charbono
walking up shore some distance below me and waited untill
[he] arrived I now learnt that the canoes were behind, they
arrived shortly after. their detention had been caused by the
rapidity of the water and the circuitous rout of the river. they
halted and breakfasted after which we all set out again and I
continued my walk on the Stard. shore the river now becomes
more collected the islands tho' numerous ar generally small.
the river continues rapid and is from 90 to 120 yds. wide has a
considerable quantity of timber in it's bottoms. towards evening
the bottoms became much narrower and the timber much
more scant. high hills set in close on the Lard. and the plain
high waivy or reather broken on the Stard. and approach the river
closely for a sho[r]t distance vally above 1 1/2 M. wd. About
one mile above Capt. Clark's encampment of the last evening

the principall entrance of a considerable river discharges itself
into Jefferson's river. this stream is a little upwards of 30 yds.
wide disc[h]arges a large quantity of very clear water it's bed
like that of Jefferson's river is pebble and gravel. it takes it's
rise in the snowclad mountains between Jefferson's and Madison's
Rivers to the S.W. and discharges itself into the former
by seven mouths it has some timber in it's bottoms and vas[t]
numbers of beaver and Otter. this stream we call River Philosophy.
the rock of the clifts this evening is a hard black
grannite like that of the clifts of most parts of the river below
the limestone clifts at the 3 forks of the Missouri. this evening
just before we encamped Drewyer discovered a brown bear
enter a small cops of bushes on the Lard. side; we surrounded
the place an[d] surched the brush but he had escaped in some
manner unperceived but how we could not discover. nothing
killed today and our fresh meat is out. when we have a plenty
of fresh meat I find it impossible to make the men take any care
of it, or use it with the least frugallity. tho' I expect that
necessity will shortly teach them this art. the mountiains on
both sides of the river at no great distance are very lofty. we
have a lame crew just now, two with tumers or bad boils on
various parts of them, one with a bad stone bruise, one with his
arm accedently dislocated but fortunately well replaced, and a
fifth has streigned his back by sliping and falling backwards on
the gunwall of the canoe. the latter is Sergt. Gass. it gives
him great pain to work in the canoe in his present situation,
but he thinks he can walk with convenience, I therefore
scelected him as one of the party to accompany me to-morrow,
being determined to go in quest of the Snake Indians. I also
directed Drewyer and Charbono to hold themselves in readiness.
Charbono thinks that his ankle is sufficiently recovered
to stand the march but I entertain my doubts of the fact; he is
very anxious to accompany me and I therefore indulge him.
There is some pine on the hills on both sides of the river
opposite to our encampment which is on the Lard. side upon a
small island just above a run. the bull rush & Cat-tail flag
grow in great abundance in the moist parts of the bottoms the
dryer situations are covered with fine grass, tanzy, thistles,
onions and flax. the bottom land fertile and of a black rich
loam. the uplands poor sterile and of a light yellow clay with
a mixture of small smooth pebble and gravel, p[r]oducing
prickley pears, sedge and the bearded grass in great abundance;
this grass is now so dry that it would birn like tinder.
we saw on bighorn today a few antelopes and deer.

Courses and distances of July 31st. 1805.

                                                           

West	1/8	to a bayou in a Stard. bend.
South	1	to a bayou on the Lard. side at the principal entrence of River Philosophy which is 30 yds. wide and discharges itself from hence downwards on Lard. side by five other mouths, and one above.
West	3/4	to the entrance of a bayou in a Stard. bend passing 2 small Islands one on each side.
South	1/2	to a Lard. bend opposite 2 Islands.
S. 45°. W.	1/2	to a point on Lard. side passing a bayou Lard. Sd.
West	1/2	to a tree in a Stard. bend
South	1/8	in the Stard. bend.
S. 60°. E.	1/4	to a prarie above some willows on the Lard. side
S. 25°. W.	1/4	to the lower point of an Island.
East	1/8	to the upper entrance of Philosophy River, Lad.
South 20 W	1 1/4	to a Stard. bend passing 2 small Islands.
S. 25°. E.	1/4	to a Lard. bend
S. 45°. W.	1/8	to a Stard. bend.
South	1/4	to a Lard. bend.
S. 20°. W.	3/4	in the Lard. bend to a point opposite to an Isld.
West	1/2	to a small bayou in a Lard. bend
S. 60°. W. I.	1.	to the head of an Island
S. 45°. W.	1 1/4	to a clift of the mountain on Lard. side; passing an Island on Stard.
S. 80°. W.	1/2	to the clift of a high hill on Stard. here the clifts put in close on both sides leaving narrow bottoms.
S. 45°. W.	3/4	to a low bluff above a Lard. clift in a Lard. bend.
N. 45°. W.	1.	to a point of rock on the Stard. side, here the hills receede from the river bottoms 1 1/2 Ml. wide.
S. 80°. W.	1/4	to a Lard. bend, an Isld. on Lard. side.
N. 80°. W.	1.	to a Stard. bend passing an Isld.
S. 60°. W.	3/4	to a small island in the Stard. bend.
South	1/8	to a tree in a Lard. bend.
S. 70°. W.	3/4	to a Stard. bend passing an Island.
S. 20°. W.	1 3/4	to the foot of a mountain on a Lard. bend
N. 70°. W.	3/4	to a Stard. bend.
S. 70°. W.	1/2	to some bushes in a Lard. bend, passing the entrance of a small run on Lard. just above which we encamped on a small Isld. near the Lard. side.[1]
Miles	17 5/8

[Clark:]

July 31st. Tuesday 1805

a fair Morning Capt Lewis out all night, we arrived at his
Camp to brackfast, he was without a blanket, & he killed a
Duck whiche [he] Suped on &c. the river as yesterday
Sholey & rapid, passed the lower mouth of a Small river on
the Lard. in the morning & the upper mouth a [blank space in
MS.] Miles above, this little river is the one I camped on
the 26th & heads in the Snow mountains[2] to the S.W. proceeded
on verry well and Camped on a Small Island a little
above the place I Camped the 25th instant at the mouth of a
run on the Lard Side, the bottoms from the Mouth of the
river extend to 2 1/[2] Miles & enter a Short & high hill which
is about 1 mile thro' and, the river then passes thro a 2d vallie
of about 1 1/2 Miles wide, Some Islands. below this Knobe
the river is Crouded with Islands, we are out of fresh meet,
& nothing killed to day The Mountains on either Side is
high & rough we have two men with toumers and unable
to work.

Capt Lewis deturmin to proceed on with three me[n] in
Serch of the Snake Indians, tomorrow

[Lewis—apparently the first draft:][3]

August 1st 1805—

At half after 8 A. M. we halted for breakfast and as had
been previously agreed on between Capt. Clark and myself I

set out with 3 men in quest of the Snake Indians. the men I
took were the two Interpreters Drewyer and Sharbono and
Sergt. Gass who by an accedental fall had so disabled himself
that it was with much pain he could work in the canoes tho'
he could march with convenience. the rout we took lay over
a rough high range of mountains on the North side of the
river. the rive[r] entered these mountains a few miles above
where we left it. Capt. Clark recommended this rout to me
from a belief that the river as soon as it past the mountains
boar to the N. of W. he having a few days before asscended
these mountains to a position from which he discovered a large
valley passing between the mountains and which boar to the
N. West. this however p[r]oved to be the inlet of a large
creek which discharged itself into the river just above this
range of mountains, the river bearing to the S. W. we were
therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as we
discovered our mistake we directed our course to the river
which we at length gained about 2 P. M. much exhausted by
the heat of the day the roughness of the road and the want of
water. the mountains are extreemly bare of timber and our
rout lay through the steep valleys exposed to the heat of the
sun without shade and scarcely a breath of air; and to add to
my fatigue in this walk of about 11 miles I had taken a doze
of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight
desentary with which I had been afflicted for several days;
being weakened by the disorder and the opperation of the
medicine I found myself almost exhausted before we reached
the river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach
to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk of which
Drewyer and myself killed two. we then hurried to the river
and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the
Elk and bring the meat to the river while myself and the other
prepared a fire and cooked some of the meat for our dinner.
we made a comfortable meal of the Elk and left the ballance
of the meat on the bank of the river [for] the party with Capt.
Clark. this supply was no doubt very acceptable to them as
they had had no fresh meat for near two days except one
beaver Game being very scarce and shy. we had seen a few
deer and some goats but had not been fortunate enough to
kill any of them. after dinner we resumed our march and
encamped about 6 M. above on the Stard-side of the river.

[Lewis—apparently the second draft:]

Thursday August 1st. 1805.

This morning we set out early and proceeded on tolerably
well untill 8 OC'k by which time we had arrived within a few
miles of a mountain through which the river passes. we
halted on the Stard. side and took breakfast. after which or at
1/2 after 8 A.M. as had been previously concerted betwe[e]n
Capt. Clark and myself I set out with three men in surch of
the Snake Indians or Sosonees. our rout lay over a high
range of mountains on the North side of the river. Capt C.
recommended this rout to me no doubt from a beleif that the
river as soon as it passed this chain of mountains boar to the
N. of W. he having on the 26th. ult. ascended these mountains
to a position from whence he discoved a large valley passing
between the mountains which boar to the N. W. and presumed
that the river passed in that direction; this however proved
to be the passage of a large creek[4] which discharged itself into
the river just above this range of mountains, the river bearing
to the S. W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of
our rout. as soon as we discovered our error we directed our
course of the river which we at length gained about 2 P. M.
much exhausted by the heat of the day, the roughness of the
road and the want of water. the mountains are extreemly bare
of timber, and our rout lay through the steep and narrow hollows
of the mountains exposed to the inte[n]se heat of the
midday sun without shade or scarcely a breath of air: to add
to my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 milles, I had taken a
doze of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight
disentary with which I had been afflicted for several days.
being weakened by the disorder and the operation of the medicine
I found myself almost exhausted before we reached the
river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach

to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk, of which Drewyer
and myself soon killed a couple. we then hurryed to the
river and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to
skin the Elk and bring the meat to the river, while myself and
the other prepared a fire and cooked some of the meat for our
dinner. we made a comfortable meal on the Elk, and left the
ballance of the meat and skins on the bank of the river for
Capt. Clark and party. this supply will no doubt be acceptable
to them, as they had had no fresh meat when I left them
for almost 2 days except one beaver; game being very scarce
and shy above the forks. we had seen a few deer and antelopes
but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of them.
as I passed these mountains I saw a flock of the black or dark
brown phesants; he young phesant is almost grown we
killed one of them. this bird is fully a third larger than the
common phesant of the Atlantic states. it's form is much the
same. it is booted nearly to the toes and the male has not
the tufts of long black feathers on the sides of the neck which
are so conspicuous in those of the Atlantic. their colour is a
uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or yelloish
brown specks on some of the feathers particularly those of the
tail, tho' the extremities of these are perfectly black for about
one inch. the eye is nearly black, the iris has a small dash of
yellowish brown. the feathers of the tail are reather longer
than that of our phesant or pattridge as they are Called in the
Eastern States; are the same in number or eighteen and all
nearly of the same length, those in the intermediate part being
somewhat longest. the flesh of this bird is white and agreeably
flavored. I also saw near the top of the mountain among
some scattering pine a blue bird about the size of the common
robbin.[5] it's action and form is somewhat that of the jay bird
and never rests long in any one position but constantly flying
or hoping from sprey to sprey. It shot at one of them but
missed it. their note is loud and frequently repeated both flying
and when at rest and is char âh′, cha′r-âh, char-âh′, as
nearly as letters can express it. after dinner we resumed our
march and my pack felt much lighter than it had done about
2 hours before. we traveled about six miles further and
encamped on the stard. bank of the river, making a distance of
17 miles for this day. the Musquetoes were troublesome but
I had taken the precaution of bringing my bier.

Shortly after I left Capt. Clark this morning he proceed[ed]
on and passed through the mountains; they formed tremendious
clifts of ragged and nearly perpendicular rocks; the
lower part of this rock is of the black grannite before mentioned
and the upper part a light coloured freestone. these
clifts continue for 9 miles and approach the river very closely
on either side. he found the current verry strong. Capt. C.
killed a big horn on these clifts which himself and party dined
on. after passing this range of mountains he entered this
beautifull valley in which we also were it is from 6 to 8 miles
wide. the river is crooked and crouded with islands, it's
bottoms wide fertile and covered with fine grass from 9 inches
to 2 feet high and possesses but a scant proportion of timber,
which consists almost entirely of a few narrow leafed cottonwood
trees distributed along the verge of the river. in the
evening Capt. C. found the Elk I had left him and ascended a
short distance above to the entrance of a large creek which
falls in on Stard. and encamped opposite to it on the Lard. side.
he sent out the two Fieldses to hunt this evening and they
killed 5 deer, which with the Elk again gave them a plentifull
store of fresh provisions. this large creek we called Field's
Creek after Reubin Fields one our party. on the river about
the mountains w[h]ich Capt. C. passed today he saw some
large cedar trees and some juniper also. just at the upper side
of the mountain there is a bad rappid here the toe line of our
canoe broke in the shoot of the rapids and swung on the rocks
and had very nearly overset. a small distance above this
rapid a large bold Creek falls in on Lard. side which we called
Frazier's Creek after Robt. Frazier.[6] They saw a large brown
bear feeding on currants but could not get a shoot at him.

Courses and distances as navigated with the Canoes on the
1st. of August 1805.

                                     

N. 30°. W.	1	to a point of rocks on the Lard. side, at this place the river passes through perpendicular Clifts.
N. 60°. W.	3/4	to the upper part of the rocks in a Stard. bend
S. 70°. W.	1/2	to a clift on the Lard. side
S. 45°. W.	1/2	to a Stard. bend
S. 26°. W.	1 3/4	to a bluff on the Stard. side.
South	1/2	to a Lard. bend, at this place the river enters a high mountain of steep and ruggid clifts on both sides.
N. 30°. W.	1 1/4	to a Stard. bend under a high clift
N. 80°. W.	1/4	to a clift of high rocks in a Stard. bend a small bottom on Lard. side.
S. 60°. W.	1/2	to a Lard. bend under a piney hill.
N. 25°. W.	1/4	to a small Island on the Lard. side
N. 30°. E.	1/4	to a Stard. bend high clifts on both sides
N. 80°. W.	3/4	to the entrance of a large creek on Lard. side passing an island and rapid of 6 feet fall; these we called Frazier's falls and Creek after Robert Frazier one of our party. here the river again enters a valley.
North	1/2	to a Stard. bend under a hill.
N. 45°. W.	1/2	to a Lard. bend
N. 70°. W.	1 1/2	to the point of an Island passing several smal[l] Islds.
North	1/4	to a Stard. bend.
West	3/4	to the lower point of an Island
N. 45°. W.	1/4	to the entrance of a Large creek on Stard. w[h]ich we called Field's Creek, after Reubin Fields one of our party. opposite to which encamped on Lard. side.
Miles.	13

[Clark:]

August 1st Wednesday 1805

A fine day Capt. Lewis left me at 8 oClock just below the
place I entered a verrey high mountain which jutted its treme[n]dious
Clifts on either Side for 9 Miles, the rocks ragide
Some verry dark & other part verry light rock the light rocks
is Sand Stone. The water Swift & very Sholey. I killed a
Ibix on which the whole party Dined, after passing through
the Mountain we entered a wide exte[n]sive Vallie of from 4
to 8 Miles wide verry leavell a Creek falls in at the Commencement

of this Vallie on the Lard Side, the river widens &
spreds into Small Chanels. W[e] encamped on the Lard Side
opposit a large Creek I sent out Jo: & R fields to hunt this
evening they killed 5 Deer, I saw a large Bear eateing
Currents this evining The river so rapid that the greatest
exertion is required by all to get the boats on wind SW
Murckery at sun rise 50° Ab. o.

[Lewis—apparently the first draft:]

August 2ed. 1805

We resumed our march this morning at sunrise the weather
was fair and wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar
to the south I determined to pass it if possible to shorten our
rout this we effected about five miles above our camp of last
evening by wading it. found the current very rappid about
90 yards wide and waist deep. this is the first time that I ever
dared to make the attempt to wade the river, tho' there are
many places between this and the three forks where I presume
it migh[t] be attempted with equal success. the valley
th[r]ough which our rout of this [day] lay and through which
the river winds it's meandering course is a beatifull level plain
with but little timber and that on the verge of the river. the
land is tolerably fertile, consisting of a black or dark yellow
loam, and covered with grass from 9 Inches to 2 feet high.
the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to the
bases of two ranges of mountains which ly parrallel to the
river and which terminate the width of the vally the tops of
these mountains were yet partially covered with snow while we
in the valley were suffocated nearly with the intense heat of
the midday sun. the nights are so could that two blankets are
not more than sufficient covering. we found a great [many]
courants, two kinds of which were red, others yellow deep
purple and black. also black goosburies and service buries
now ripe and in full perfection, we feasted su[m]ptuously on
our wild fruit particularly the yellow courant and the deep
purple servicebury which I found to be excellent the courrant
grows very much like the red currant common to the gardens
in the atlantic states tho' the leaf is somewhat different and the

growth taller. the service burry grows on a smaller bush and
differs from ours only in colour and the superior excellence of
it's flavor and size, it is of a deep purple. this day we saw an
abundance of deer and goats or antelopes and a great number
of the tracks of Elk; of the former we killed two. we continued
our rout along this valley which is from six to eight
Miles wide untill sun set when we encamped for the night on
the river bank having traveled about 24 miles. I feel myself
perfectly recovered of my indisposition and do not doubt being
able to pursue my march with equal comfort in the morning.

[Lewis—apparently the second draft:]

Friday August 2ed. 1805.

We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the [day]
was fair and wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar
to the South I determined to pass it if possible in order to
shorten our rout; this we effected by wading the river about
5 miles above our encampment of the last evening. we found
the current very rapid waist deep and about 90 yds. wide. bottom
smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. this
is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho' there
are many places between this and the forks where I presume it
might be attempted with equal success. The valley along
which we passed today, and through which the river winds it's
meandering course is from 6 to 8 miles wide and consists of a
bea[u]tifull level plain with but little timber and that confined
to the verge of the river; the land is tolerably fertile, and is
either black or a dark yellow loam, covered with grass from 9
inches to 2 feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either
side of the river to the bases of two ranges of high mountains,
which lye parallel to the river and prescribe the limits of the
plains. the tops of these mountains are yet covered partially
with snow, while we in the valley are nearly suffocated with the
intense heat of the mid-day sun; the nights are so cold that
two blankets are not more than sufficient covering. soon after
passing the river this morning Sergt. Gass lost my tommahawk
in the thick brush and we were unable to find it, I regret the
loss of this usefull implement, however accedents will happen

in the best families, and I consoled myself with the recollection
that it was not the only one we had with us. the bones of the
buffaloe and their excrement of an old date are to be met with
in every part of this valley but we have long since lost all hope
of meeting with that animal in these mountains. we met with
great quantities of currants today, two species of which were
red, others yellow, deep perple and black; also black goosberries
and serviceberries now ripe and in great perfection. we
feasted sumptuously on our wild fruits, particularly the yellow
currant and the deep perple serviceberries, which I found to
be excellent. the serviceberry grows on a small bush and
differs from ours only in colour size and superior excellence of
it's flavour. it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way we
saw an abundance of deer [and] Antelopes, of the former we
killed 2. we also saw many tracks of the Elk and bear.
no recent appearance of Indians. the Indians in this part of
the country appear to construct their lodges with the willow
boughs and brush; they are small of a conic figure and have
a small aperture on one side through which they enter. we
continued our rout up this valley on the Lard. side of the river
untill sunset, at which time we encamped on the Lard. bank of
the river having traveled 24 miles. we had brought with us a
good stock of venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I feel
myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition, and do not
doubt being able to pursue my rout tomorrow with the same
comfort I have done today. we saw some very large beaver
dams today in the bottoms of the river several of which wer
five feet high and overflowed several acres of land; these dams
are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so closely
interwoven that they resist the water perfectly. the base of
this work is thick and rises nearly perpendicularly on the lower
side while the upper side or that within the dam is gently
sloped. the brush appear to be laid in no regular order yet
acquires a strength by the irregularity with which they are
placed by the beaver that it would puzzle the engenuity of
man to give them.

Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity
of the current was such that his progress was slow, in short

it required the utmost exertion of the men to get on, nor could
they resist this current by any other means than that of the
cord and pole. in the course of the day they passed some
villages of burrowing squirrels, saw a number of beaver dams
and the inhabitants of them, many young ducks both of the
Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing duck, gees, several
rattle snakes, black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk;
they found the river much crouded with island[s] both large
and small and passed a small creek on Stard. side which we called
birth Creek.[7] Capt. Clark discovers a tumor rising on the inner
side of his ankle this evening which was painfull to him
(boils). they incamped in a level bottom on the Lard. side.

Courses and distances travelled by Capt. Clark August 2ed.. 1805.

                                                                         

S. 80°. W.	3/4	to a Stard. bend
S. 30°. W.	1/4	to a Lard. bend
West.	1/4	to a bayou in the Lard. bend
North	1/2	to a Stard. bend passing a riffle and 2 small Islds.
S. 30°. W.	3/4	to a Lard. bend passing an Island
N. 45°. W.	1/2	to a Stard. bend passing a Ba[y] ou Lard. side
West	2.	to an Island, passing two points on the Lard. side. 2 Islands and several bayous on Lard. the valley from 6 to 10 Mls.. wide
South–	1 1/8	to a Lard. bend
N. 45°. W.	1/4	to a Stard. bend being the Lard. side of an Isld.
S. 40°. W.	1/8	along the Stard. bend of the Island.
S. 60°. E.	1/4	to a Lard. bend passing the upper point of the Island. on the Stard. side.
S. 45°. W.	1/2	in the Lard. bend
N. 10°. W.	3/4	in the Stard. bend passing a bayou
N. 80°. W.	1/4	to a Stard. bend, being the Lard. side of an Island
S. 30°. W.	3/4	to a Lard. bend passing the Island.
North	1/4	to a Stard. bend.
S. 45°. W.	1	to the mouths of three bayous in a Stard. bend
S. 30°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend
S. 50°. W.	1/8	in the Lard. bend.
N. 20°. W.	1/2	to a bayou in a Stard. bend.
S. 20°. W.	1/2	to a Lard. bend
N. 45°. W.	1/4	to a low bluff in a Stard. bend.
S. 45°. W	1/8	along the Lard. bend passing a bayou on Stard. side
S. 20°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend
S. 50°. W.	1/4	to the lower point of an Island
West	1/4	to a Lard. bend at a bayou, passing a bayou on the Stard. side and the Island.
S. 60°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend passing an Island.
S. 45°. W.	1/4	to a bayou on the Stard. side in a bend.
South	1/4	to a lard. bend.
S. 60°. W.	1/2	to a Stard. bend, at the entrance of a bayou, [Birth Cr.] which is rapid and 30 yds. wide
S. 45°. E.	1/8	along the Stard. bend
East.	1/8	to a Lard. bend
South	1/2	to the mouth of a bayou in a Stard. bend
S. 70°. W.	3/4	to a Stard. bend
South	1/4	to a high bottom in a Stard. bend
S. 70°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend, where they encamped for the night in a smooth plain.
Miles	17

[Clark:]

August 2d. nd. Friday 1805

a fine day set out early the river has much the Same kind
of banks Chanel Current &c. as it had in the last Vallie, I
walked out this morning on Shore & Saw Several rattle Snakes
in the plain, the wind from the NW we proceeded on with
great dificuelty from the rapidity of the current & rapids, abt.
15 miles and Encamped on the Lard Side, saw a large Gangue
of Elk at Sunset to the SW. passed a Small Creek on the
Stard Side called birth Creek and maney large and Small Islands.
Saw a number of young Ducks as we have also Seen everry
Day, Some geese. I saw Black woodpeckers. I have either
got my foot bitten by Some poisonous insect or a tumer is
riseing on the inner bone of my ankle which is painfull

[Lewis—apparently the first draft:]

August the 3rd. 1805—

Set out this morning at sunrise and continued our rout
through the valley on the Lard. side of the river. at eleven
A. M. Drewyer killed a doe and we halted and took breakfast.

the mountains continue high on either side of the valley, and
are but skantely supplyed with timber; small pine appears to
be the prevalent growth. there is no timber in the valley
except a small quantity of the narrow leafed cottonwood on the
verge of the river. the underwood consists of the narrowleafed
or small willow, honeysuckle rosebushes, courant, goosbury
and service bury bushes allso a small quantity of a species of
dwarf burch the leaf of which, oval, deep green, finely indented
and very small. we encamped this evening after sunset having
traveled by estimate 23 miles. from the width and appearance
of the valley at this place I concieved that the river forked not
far above me and therefore resolved the next morning to examine
the adjacent country more minutely.

[Lewis—apparently the second draft:]

Saturday August 3rd. 1805.

Set out early this morning, or before sunrise; still continued
our march through the level valley on the lard. side of the river.
the valley much as yesterday only reather wider; I think it
12 Miles wide, tho' the plains near the mountains rise higher
and are more broken with some scattering pine near the mountain.
in the leaveler parts of the plain and river bottoms
which are very extensive there is no timber except a scant
proportion of cottonwood near the river. the under wood
consists of the narrow leafed or small willow, the small honeysuckle,
rosebushes, currant, serviceberry, and goosbery bushes;
also a small species of berch in but small quantities, the leaf
of which is oval, finely indented, small and of a deep green
colour. the stem is simple ascending and branching, and seldom
rises higher than 10 or 12 feet. the Mountains continue
high on either side of the valley, and are but scantily supplyed
with timber; small pine apears to be the prevalent growth; it
is of the pi[t]ch kind, with a short leaf. at 11 A. M. Drewyer
killed a doe and we halted about 2 hours and breakfasted, and
then continued our rout untill night without halting, when we
arrived at the river in a level bottom which appeared to spread
to greater extent than usual. from the appearance of the timber
I supposed that the river forked above us and resolved to examine
this part of the river minutely tomorrow. this evening

we passed through a high plain for about 8 miles covered with
prickley pears and bearded grass, tho' we found this even better
walking than the wide bottoms of the river, which we passed
in the evening; these altho' apparently level, from some cause
which I know not, were formed into meriads of deep holes as
if rooted up by hogs; these the grass covered so thick that it
was impossible to walk without the risk of falling down at
every step. some parts of these bottoms also possess excellent
terf or peat, I beleive of many feet deep. the mineral salts
also frequently mentioned on the Missouri we saw this evening
in these uneven bottoms. we saw many deer, Antelopes,
ducks, gees, some beaver and great appearance of their work.
also a small bird and the Curlooe as usual. we encamped on
the river bank on Lard. side having traveled by estimate 23
Miles. The fish of this part of the river are trout and a
species of scale fish of a while [white] colour and a remarkable
small long mouth which one of our men inform us are the
same with the species called in the Eastern states bottlenose.
the snowey region of the mountains and for some distance
below has no timber or herbage of any kind; the timber is
confined to the lower and middle regions. Capt. Clark set out
this morning as usual. he walked on shore a small distance
this morning and killed a deer. in the course of his walk he
saw a track which he supposed to be that of an Indian from
the circumstance of the large toes turning inward, he pursued
the track and found that the person had ascended a point of a
hill from which his camp of the last evening was visible; this
circumstance also confirmed the beleif of it's being an Indian
who had thus discovered them and ran off. they found the
river as usual much crouded with islands, the currant more
rapid & much more shallow than usual. in many places they
were obliged to double man the canoes and drag them over the
stone and gravel. this morning they passed a small creek on
Stard. at the entrance of which Reubin Fields killed a large
Panther. we called the creek after that animal Panther Creek.[8] they also passed a handsome little stream on Lard. which is
form[ed] of several large springs which rise in the bottoms and
along the base of the mountains with some little rivulets from
the melting snows. the beaver have formed many large dams
on this stream. they saw some deer Antelopes and the common
birds of the country. in the evening they passed a very
bad rappid where the bed of the river is formed ent[i]rely of
solid rock and encamped on an island just above. the Panther
which Fields killed measured seven and 1/2 feet from the nose to
the extremity of the tail. it is precisely the same animal common
to the western part of our country. the men wer compelled to
be a great proportion of their time in the water today; they
have had a severe days labour and are much fortiegued.

Courses and distances as traveled by Capt. C. and party August 3.rd 1805.

                         

South	1/2	in a Lard. bend.
West	1 1/4	to a Stard. bend.
S. 45°. W.	1/2	to the entrance of a small creek in a Stard. bend this stream heads in the mountains at a little distance. we called it Panther Creek.
S. 20°. W.	1/2	in the Stard. bend.
S. 80°. E.	1 1/4	to the lower point of an island.
South	1/4	to a point of the Island on it's Stard. side
South. 30°. E.	1/4	to a bayou in the Island
South	1 1/2	to the upper point of the island having passed two point[s] and a Clift on Stard. and a point on Lard.
S. 10°. W.	4.	On a direct line to the entrance of a small creek on Lard. it being the dranes of a snowey mountain in view. river passing under this mountain leaving the bottoms to the Stard. and has several short bends in this course.
S. 25°. W.	1	to a small run in a Lard. bend
S. 60°. W.	1.	to a low stoney bluff in a Stard. bend, opposite an island having passed one other.
S. 20°. W.	1.	to the lower point of an Island Lard. passing one other, and a narrow rocky channel under a bluf. encamped on this island for the evening.
Miles	13

[Clark:]

August 3rd. Saturday 1805

a fine morning wind from the NE I walked on Shore
& killed a Deer, in my walk I saw a fresh track which I
took to be an Indian from the Shape of the foot as the toes
turned in, I think it probable that this Indian Spied our
fires and Came to a Situation to view us from the top of a
Small knob on the Lard Side. the river more rapid and Sholey
than yesterday one man R. F. killed a large Panthor on the
Shore We are oblige to haul over the Sholes [the] Canoes
in maney places where the Islands are noumerous and bottom
Sholey, in the evening the river more rapid and Sholey we
encamped on an Island av[b]ove a part of the river which
passed thro a a rockey bed enclosed on both sides with thick
willow Current & red buries &c. &c. passed a bold Stream
which heads in the mountains to our right and the drean of
the monting Snow in the Montn on that side ar in View. at
4 oClock passed a bold Stream which falls from a Mountn. in
three Channels to our left, the Greater portion of the Snow on
this mountain is melted, but little remaining near us Some
Deer Elk & antelopes & Bear in the bottoms. but fiew trees
and they Small the Mountains on our left Contain pine
those on our right but verry partially Supplied and what pine
& cedar it has is on the Lower region, no wood being near
the Snow. great numbers of Beaver Otter &c. Some fish,
trout & bottle nose. Birds as usial. Geese young Ducks &
Curlows

[Lewis—apparently the first draft:]

August 4th 1805

Set out very early this morning and steered S. E. by E.
about 4 miles when we passed a bould runing creek about
12 yards wide the water could and remarkably clear, we then
changed our course to S. E. passing obliquely across a valley
which boar nearly E leaving the valley which we had pursued
for the 2 precedeing days. at the distance of 3 miles we
passed a handsome little river which passes through this
valley; it is about 30 yards wide affords a considerable quantity
of water and I beleive it may be navigated some miles.

I then changed my rout to S. W. passed a high plain which
lyes between the vallies and returned to the S. valley, in passing
which I fell in with a river about 45 yards wide which I
waideg [waded] and then continued my rout down to it's junction
with the river just mentioned, and from thence to the
entrance of the creek which falls in about 2 miles below; still
continuing my rout down this stream about three miles further
and about 2 M. below our encampment of the last evening
this river forms a junction with a river 50 yards wide which
comes from the N. W. and falling into the S. valley runs parrallel
with the middle fork about 12 miles. this is a bould
rappid & clear stream it's bed so broken and obstructed by
gravel bars and Islands that it appeared to me impossible to
navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses
about 2/3ds. as much water as this rappid stream, it's
cours so far as I can observe it is about S. W. and it appears
to be navigable; its water is much warmer than that of the
rappid fork and somewhat turbid, from which I concluded
that it had it's source at a greater distance in the mountains
and passed through an opener country than the other. under
this impression I wrote a note to Capt. Clark recommending
his taking the middle fork provided he should arrive at this
place before my return which I expect will be the day after
tomorrow. the note I left on a pole at the forks of the river
and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison
we killed this morning I continued my rout up the Stard.
side of the N. W. fork, determining to pursue it until 12 OC.
the next day and then pass over to the middle fork and return
to their junction or untill I met Capt. Clark. we encamped
this evening near the point where the river leaves the valley
and enters the mountains, having traveled about 20. Miles.

[Lewis—apparently the second draft:]

Sunday August 4th. 1805.

Set out very early this morning and Steered S. E. by E. 4
M. when we pased a bold runing Creek 12 yds. wide, the water
of which was clear and very cold. it appears to be formed by
four dranes from the snowey mountains to our left. after

passing this creek we changed our direction to S. E. passing
obliquely across a valley which boar E. leaving the valley we
had pursued for the two preceeding days. at the distance
of 3 Ms. we passed a handsome little river which meanders
through this valley; it is about 30 yds. wide, affords a considerable
quantity of water and appears as if it might be navigated
some miles. the currant is not rapid nor the water very clear;
the banks are low and the bed formed of stone and gravel. I
now changed my rout to S. W. passed a high plain which lies
betwen the valleies and returned to the South valley, in passing
which I fell in with a river about 45 yds. wide gravley
bottom gentle currant waist deep and water of a whitish blue
tinge. this stream we waded and continued our rout down it
to the entrance of the river just mentioned about 3/4 of a mile.
still continuing down we passed the entrance of the creek
about 2 miles lower down; and at the distance of three miles
further arrived at it's junction with a river 50 yds. wide which
Comes from the S. W. and falling into the South valley runs
parallel with the middle fork about 12 miles before it forms a
junction. I now found that our encampment of the last evening
was about 1 1/2 miles above the entrance of this large river
on Stard.[9] this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, it's bed so
much broken and obstructed by gravley bars and it's waters
so much subdivided by Islands that it appears to me utterly
impossible to navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle
and possesses about 2/3rds. as much water as this stram. it's
course so far as I can observe it is about S.W., and from the
opening of the valley I beleive it still bears more to the West
above. it may be safely navigated. it's water is much warmer
then the rapid fork and it's water more turbed; from which
I conjecture that it has it's sources at a greater distance in
the mountains and passes through an opener country than
the other. under this impression I wrote a note to Capt
Clark, recommending his taking the middle fork P[r]ovided
he should arrive at this place before my return, which I expect
will be the day after tomorrow. this note I left on a
pole at the forks of the river, and having refreshed ourselves
and eat heartily of some venison which we killed this morning
we continued our rout up the rapid fork on the Stard. side, resolving
to pursue this stream untill noon to-morrow and then
pass over to the middle fork and come down it to their
junction or untill I meet Capt Clark. I have seen no recent
Indian sign (Qu) in the course of my rout as yet. Charbono
complains much of his leg, and is the cause of considerable
detention to us. we encamped on the river bank near the
place at which it leaves the valley and enters the mountain
having traveled about 23 miles. we saw some Antelopes deer
Crains, gees, and ducks of the two species common to this
country. the summer duck has ceased to appear, nor do I
beleive it is an inhabitant of this part of the country. the
timber &c is as heretofore tho' there is more in this valley on
the rapid fork than we have seen in the same extent on the
river since we entered this valley. the Indians appear on
some parts of the river to have distroyed a great proportion
of the little timber which there is by seting fire to the bottoms.
This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise, and sent two
hunters ahead to kill some meat. at 8 A.M. he arrived at
my camp of the 2ed. inst. where he breakfasted; here he found
a note which I had left for him at that place informing him
of the occurences of my rout &c. the river continued to be
crouded with Islands, rapid and shoaly. these shoals or riffles
succeeded each other every 3 or four hundred yards; at those
places they are obliged to drag the canoes over the stone there
not being water enough to float them, and betwen the riffles
the current is so strong that they are compelled to have c[r]ecourse
to the cord; and being unable to walk on the shore
for the brush wade in the river along the shore and hawl them
by the cord; this has increased the pain and labour extreemly;
their feet soon get tender and soar by wading and
walking over the stones. these are also so slipry that they
frequently get severe falls. being constantly wet soon makes
them feble also. their hunters killed 2 deer today and some
gees and ducks wer killed by those who navigated the canoes.
they saw deer antelopes Crains beaver Otter &c. Capt. Clark's
ancle became so painfull to him that he was unable to walk.
This evening they encamped on the Stard. side in a bottom of
cottonwood timber, all much fatiegued.

Courses and distances traveled by Capt. Clark and party. August
4th. 1805.

       

S. 45°. W.	5.	on a direct course to a Lard. bend passing 4 bends on the Lard. side and several bayous on either side.
S. 20°. W.	4.	With the river to a bluff on the Lard. side, passing 3 bends on the Stard. and two small Islands and 2 Bayous on Stard. side.
S. 60°. W.	6.	with the river to an island, passing six circular bends on the Stard. and several small bayous. encamped on stard. side in a bottom covered with cottonwood.
Miles	15.

[Clark:]

August 4th. Sunday. 1805

a fine morning cool proceeded on verry early and Brackfast
at the Camp Capt Lewis left yesterday morning, at this Camp
he left a note informing that he discovered no fresh Sign of
Indians &c. The river continued to be crouded with Islands
Sholey rapid & clear, I could not walk on Shore to day as
my ankle was sore from a tumer on that part. the method we
are compelled to take to get on is fatigueing & laborious in the
extreen, haul the Canoes over the rapids, which Suckceed each
other every two or three hundred yards and between the water
rapid oblige to tow & walke on stones the whole day except
when we have poleing, men wet all day sore feet &c.&c.
Murcury at Sun rise 49 a. o,

[Lewis:]

Monday August 5th. 1805.

As Charbono complained of being unable to march far today
I ordered him and Sergt. Gass to pass the rappid river near our
camp and proceed at their leasure through the level bottom to
a point of high timber about seven miles distant on the middle
fork which was in view; I gave them my pack that of Drewyer
and the meat which we had, directing them to remain at
that place untill we joined them. I took Drewyer with me

and continued my rout up the stard. side of the river about 4
miles and then waded it; found it so rapid and shallow that it
was impossible to navigate it. continued up it on the Lard. side
about 1 1/2 miles further when the mountains put in close on
both sides and arrose to great hight, partially covered with
snow. from hence the course of the river was to the East of
North. I took the advantage of a high projecting spur of the
mountain which with some difficulty we ascended to it's summit
in about half an hour. from this eminance I had a pleasing
view of the valley through which I had passed many miles
below and the continuation of the middle fork through the
valley equally wide above me to the distance of about 20 miles
when that also appeared to enter the mountains and disappeared
to my view; however the mountains which termineate the
valley in this direction appeared much lower than those up
either of the other forks. on the rapid fork they appeared
still to rise the one range towering above another as far as
I could perceive them. the middle fork as I suspected dose
bear considerably to the West of South and the gap formed by
it in the mountains after the valley terminates is in the same
direction. under these circumstances I did not hesitate in
beleiving the middle fork the most proper for us to ascend.
about South from me, the middle fork approached within about
5 miles. I resolved to pass across the plains to it and return
to Gass and Charbono, accordingly we set out and decended
the mountain among some steep and difficult precipices of
rocks. here Drewyer missed his step and had a very dangerous
fall, he sprained one of his fingers and hirt his leg very
much. in fifteen or 20 minutes he was able to proceed and we
continued our rout to the river where we had desighned to
interscept it. I quenched my thirst and rested a few minutes
examined the river and found it still very navigable. an old
indian road very large and plain leads up this fork, but I could
see no tracks except those of horses which appeared to have
passed early in the spring. as the river mad[e] a great bend to
the South East we again ascended the high plain and steered
our course as streight as we could to the point where I had
directed Gass and Sharbono to remain. we passed the plain
regained the bottom and struck the river about 3 miles above
them; by this time it was perfectly dark & we hooped but could
hear no tidings of them. we had struck the river at the point
of timber to which I had directed them, but [they] having mistaken
a point of woods lower down, had halted short of the
place. we continued our rout after dark down the bottom
through thick brush of the pulppy leafed thorn and prickly
pears for about 2 hours when we arrived at their camp. they
had a small quantity of meat left which Drewyer and myself eat
it being the first we had taisted today. we had traveled about
25 miles. I soon laid down and slept very soundly untill
morning. I saw no deer today nor any game except a few
Antelopes which were very shy. the soil of the plains is a
light yellow clay very meager and intermixed with a large proportion
of gravel, producing nothing except the twisted or
bearded grass, sedge and prickly pears. the dryer parts of the
bottoms are also much more indifferent in point of soil to those
below and are covered with the southernwood pulpy leafed
thorn and prickley pears with but little grass. the moist parts
are fertile and covered with fine grass and sand rushes.

This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise and dispatched
Joseph & Reubin Fields to hunt. they killed two deer on one
of which the party breakfasted. the river today they found
streighter and more rapid even than yesterday, and the labour
and difficulty of the navigation was proportionably increased,
they therefore proceeded but slowly and with great pain as the
men had become very languid from working in the water and
many of their feet swolen and so painfull that they could
scarcely walk. at 4. P. M. they arrived at the confluence of
the two rivers where I had left the note. this note had unfortunately
been placed on a green pole which the beaver had cut
and carried off together with the note; the possibility of such
an occurrence never on[c]e occurred to me when I placed it on
the green pole. this accedent deprived Capt. Clark of any information
with ri[s]pect to the country and supposing that the
rapid fork was most in the direction which it was proper we
should pursue, or West, he took that stream and asscended it
with much difficulty about a mile and encamped on an island

that had been lately overflown and was yet damp; they were
therefore compelled to make beds of brush to keep themselves
out of the mud. in ascending this stream for about a quarter
of a mile it scattered in such a maner that they were obliged to
cut a passage through the willow brush which leant over the
little channels and united their tops. Capt. Clarks ankle is
extreemly painfull to him this evening; the tumor has not yet
mature, he has a slight fever. The men were so much fortiegued
today that they wished much that nevigation was at an
end that they might go by land.

Courses and distances traveled by Capt. Clark and party August
5th 1805.

                                     

S. 45°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend passing a bayou on Lard. side
S. 15°. W.	1/2	to a Stard. bend passing an island.
South–	1	to a Lard. bend passing a small Island, and a bayoue on the Stard. side.
S. 45°. W.	1/4	to a Stard. bend passing an island.
S. 30°. W.	2.	to a low clift at the mouth of bayou on Stard. side passing three bad rappids in this course
S. 60°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend passing an Island Stard. side.
S. 30°. W.	1/2	to a bluff in a Stard. bend
South	1/4	in the Stard. bend passing a bad rapid.
S. 45°. E.	1/4	to a Lard. bend.
South	1/2	to a bluff in a Stard. bend.
South 45°. E.	1/2	to a Lard. bend.
S. 15°. W.	1/4	to a Stard. bend under a bluff.
East	1/2	to a Lard. bend passing a bayou on Stard. side.
S. 5°. W.	1/4	to a bayou in a Lard. bend.
S. 45°. W.	1/2	to a Stard. bend passing an island.
West	1/4	to a bayou in a Stard. bend.
S. 45°. E.	1/4	to a Lard. bend passing an island
South	1/2	to the forks. these forks are nearly of the same size tho' the N.W. fork possesses the most water at this time and is infinitely the most rapid. ascended the last one mile on a course of S 30 W. and encamped on an Island.
Miles.	9. 1/4

[Clark:]

August 5th. Monday 1805

a cold clear morning the wind from the S. E. the river
Streight & much more rapid than yesterday, I sent out Jo.
& R. Fields to kill some meat they killed two Deer & we
brackfast on one of them and proceeded on with great dificuelity
from the rapidity of the Current, and [in]numerable
rapids we had to encounter. at 4 oClock PM Murcery 49
ab. o, passed the mouth of principal fork which falls in on
the Lard. Side, this fork is about the size of the Stard. one less
water reather not to rapid, its Course as far as can be seen is
S.E. & appear to pass through between two mountains, the
NW. fork being the one most in our course i. e. S. 25 W. as
far as I can See, deturmind me to take this fork as the principal
and the one most proper the S E fork is of a Greenish
Colour & contains but little timber. The SW fork contains
more timber than is below for some distance, we assended
this fork about one mile and Encamped on an Island which
had been laterly overflown & was wet we raised our bead on
bushes, we passed a part of the river above the forks which
was divided and Scattered thro' the willows in such a manner
as to render it dificuelt to pass through for a 1/4 of a mile,
we were oblige to Cut our way thro' the willows. Men much
fatigued from their excessive labours in hauling the Canoes
over the rapids &c. verry weak being in the water all day.
my foot verry painfull

[Lewis:]

Tuesday August 6th. 1805.

We set out this morning very early on our return to the
forks. having nothing to eat I se[n]t Drewyer to the woodlands
to my left in order to kill a deer, sent Sergt. Gass to the
right with orders to keep sufficiently near to discover Capt. C.
and the party should they be on their way up that stream, and
with Sharbono I directed my course to the main forks through
the bottom directing the others to meet us there. about five
miles above the forks I hea[r]d the hooping of the party to
my left and changed my rout towards them; on my arrival
found that they had taken the rapid fork and learnt from Capt.

Clark that he had not found the note which I had left for him
at that place and the reasons which had induced him to ascend
this stream. it was easeist & more in our direction, and apd.
to contain as much water. he had however previously to my
comeing up with him, met Drewyer who informed him of the
state of the two rivers and was on his return. one of their
canoes had just overset and all the baggage wet, the medecine
box among other articles and several articles lost a shot pouch
and horn with all the implements for one rifle lost and never
recovered. I walked down to the point where I waited their
return. on their arrival found that two other canoes had filled
with water and wet their cargoes completely. Whitehouse had
been thrown out of one of the canoes as she swing in a rapid
current and the canoe had rubed him and pressed him to the
bottom as she passed over him and had the water been 2 inches
shallower must inevitably have crushed him to death. our
parched meal, corn, Indian preasents, and a great part of our
most valuable stores were wet and much damaged on this ocasion.
to examine, dry and arrange our stores was the first
object; we therefore passed over to the lard. side opposite to
the entrance of the rapid fork where there was a large gravly
bar that answered our purposes; wood was also convenient and
plenty. here we fixed our camp, and unloaded all our canoes
and opened and exposed to dry such articles as had been wet.
a part of the load of each canoe consisted of the leaden canestirs
of powder which were not in least injured, tho' some of them
had remained upwards of an hour under water. about 20 lb2
of powder which we had in a tight Keg or at l[e]ast one which
we thought sufficiently so got wet and intirely spoiled. this
would have been the case with the other had it not have been
for the expedient which I had fallen on of securing the powder
by means of the lead having the latter formed into canesters
which were filled with the necessary proportion of po[w]der to
discharge the lead when used, and those canesters well secured
with corks and wax. in this country the air is so pure and dry
that any vessel however well seasoned the timber may be will
give way or shrink unless it is kept full of some liquid. we
found that three deer skins which we had left at a considerable
hight on a tree were taken off which we supposed had been
done by a panther. we sent out some men to hunt this evening,
they killed 3 deer and four Elk which gave us a plentifull
supply om[f] meat once more. Shannon had been dispatched
up the rapid fork this morning to hunt, by Capt Clark before
he met with Drewyer or learnt his mistake in the rivers. when
he returned he sent Drewyer in surch of him, but he rejoined
us this evening and reported that he had been several miles up
the river and could find nothing of him. we had the trumpet
sounded and fired several guns but he did not join us this
evening. I am fearful he is lost again. this is the same man
who was seperated from us 15 days as we came up the Missouri
and subsisted 9 days of that time on grapes only.
Whitehouse is in much pain this evening with the injury one
of his legs sustained from the canoe today at the time it upset
and swing over him. Capt Clarks ankle is also very painfull
to him. we should have given the party a days rest some
where near this place had not this accedent happened, as I had
determined to take some observations to fix the Latitude and
longitude of these forks. our merchandize medecine &c are not
sufficiently dry this evening we covered them securely for the
evening. Capt Clark had ascended the river about 9 miles from
this place on a course of S 30°. W. before he met with Drewyer.

we beleive that the N.W. or rapid fork is the dane (drain)
of the melting snows of the mountains, and that it is not as
long as the middle fork and dose not at all seasons of the year
supply any thing like as much water as the other and that
about this season it rises to it's greatest hight. this last
appears from the apparent bed of the river which is now overflown
and the water in many plases spreads through old
channels which have their bottoms covered with grass that
has grown this season and is such as appears on the parts of
the bottom not innundated. we therefore determined that the
middle fork was that which ought of right to bear the name
we had given to the lower portion or River Jefferson, and called
the bold rapid an[d] clear stream Widsom,[10] and the more mild

and placid one which flows in from the S.E. Philanthrophy, in
commemoration of two of those cardinal virtues, which have
so eminently marked that deservedly selibrated character through
life.

[Clark:]

August 6th. Tuesday 1805

a Clear morning Cool wind from the SW we proceeded on
with much dificuelty and fatigue over rapids & Stones; river
about 40 or 50 yards wide much divided by Islands and narrow
Bayoes to a low bluff on the Stard Side & Brackfast, dureing
the time of Brackfast Drewyer Came to me from Capt. Lewis
and informed me that they had explored both forks for 30 or
40 miles & that the one we were assending was impracti[c]able
much further up & turned imediately to the North, The
middle fork he reported was gintle and after a Short distance
turned to the S. W. and that all the Indian roads leades up
the middle fork. this report deturmind me to take the middle
fork, accordingly Droped down to the forks where I met with
Capt Lewis & party, Capt Lewis had left a Letter on a pole
in the forks informing me what he had discovered & th[e]
course of the rivers &c. this letter was Cut down by the
[beaver] as it was on a green pole & Carried off. Three Skins
which was left on a tree was taken off by the Panthers or
wolves. In decending to the Point one Can[o]e Struck &
turned on a rapid & Sunk, and wet every thing which was in
her, this misfortune obliged us to halt at the forks and dry
those articles, one other Canoe nearly turning over, filled half
full of water & wet our medison & Some goods Corn &c.
Several hunters out to day & killed a young Elk, antilope, &
3 Deer, one man Shannon did not return to night. The
evening Cool my anckle much wors than it has been. this
evening a Violent wind from the N. W. accompanied with rain
which lasted half an hour wind NW

[Lewis:]

Wednesday August 7th. 1805

The morning being fair we spread our stores to dry at an
early hour. Dispatched Reubin Fields in surch of Shannon.

Our stores were now so much exhausted that we found we
could proceed with one canoe less, we therefore drew out one
of them into a thicket of brush and secured her in such manner
that the water could not take her off should the river rise to
the hight where she is. The creek which falls in above us we
called turf creek from the cercu[m]stance of it's bottoms being
composed of excellent turf. my air gun was out of order and
her sights had been removed by some accedent I put her in
order and regulated her. she shot again as well as she ever
did. The clouds last night prevented my taking any lunar
observations this day I took Equal Altitudes of the ☉ with
Sextant.

       

	h m s		b m s
A.M.	8. 20. 28. 5	P.M.	4. 38. 3	Altitude by Sext. at the time of observation.
	″. 21. 54.		″. 39. 40	° ′ ″
	″. 23. 30.		″. 41. 8	62. 9. 45.

Chronometer too [blank space in MS.] on Mean time [blank space
in MS.] h m s

       

Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉'s. L.L. with	° ′ ″
Octant by the back observation	63. 5.—
	° ′
Latitude deduced from this observation	N. 45. 2. 43 8

At one oclock all our baggage was dry we therefore packed
it up reloaded the canoes and the party proceeded with Capt.
Clark up Jefferson's river. I remained with Sergt. Gass to
complete the observation of equal altitudes and joined them in
the evening at their camp on the Lard. side just above the
entance of turf creek. we had a shower of rain w[h]ich continued
about 40 minutes attended with thunder and lightning.
this shower wet me perfectly before I reached the camp. the
clouds continued during the night in such manner that I was
unable to obtain any lunar observations. This evening Drewyer
brought in a deer which he had killed. we have not heard
any thing from Shannon yet, we expect that he had pursued
Wisdom river upwards for som[e] distance probably killed
some heavy animal and is waiting our arrival. the large biteing
fly or hare fly as they [are] sometimes called are very

troublesome to us. I observe two kinds of them a large black
species and a small brown species with a green head. the musquetoes
are not as troublesome as they were below, but are still
in considerable quantities. the eye knats have disappeared.
the green or blowing flies are still in swarms.

Courses and distances August 7th. 1805.

   

S. 45°. E.	to the entrance of turf Creek 12 yds. wide which discharges itself on Lard. side passing several bends both on Stard. and Lard. and several small bayous on either side. on the course of the R. about 7 M.
Miles [1]

☞ the courses from the entrance of Wisdom river to the
forks of Jefferson's river are taken directly to the objects mentioned
and the distance set down is that by land on a direct
line between the points;[11] the estimated distances by water is
also added in the body of the remarks on each course.

[Clark:]

August 7th. Wednesday 1805

a fine morning put out our Stores&c. to dry & took equal
altitudes with the Sextant, as our Store[s] were a little exorsted
and one Canoe became unnecessary deturmind to leave one.
we Hauled her up in the bushes on the lower Side of the main
fork & fastened her So that the water could not flote her off.
The Countrey in this quarter is as follows i, e a Vallie of 5 or 6
miles wide Inclosed between two high Mountains, the bottom
rich Some Small timber on the Islands & bushes on the edges
of the river Some Bogs & verry good turfs in different places
in the vallie, Some scattering Pine & cedar on the mountains
in places, other Parts nacked [naked] except grass and Stone
The Lattitude of the Mouth of Wisdom River is 45° 2′ 21″.6
North, we proceeded up the Main Middle or S.E. fork,
passed a[nd] Camped on the Lard. Side above the mouth of a
bold running Stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek
from the number of bogs & quan[ti]ty of turf in its waters.

this Creek runs thro a open Plain for Several miles, takeing its
rise in a high mountain to the N.E. The river Jefferson above
Wisdom is gentle Crooked and about 40 yards wide, Containing
but little timber, Some few Cotton willow Willow & Birch,
and the Srubs common to the countrey and before mentioned
at 5 oClock a thunder Storm from the N.W. accompanied with
rain which lasted about 40 minits. despatched. R Fields to
hunt Shannon, who was out huntg. on Wisdom river at the
time I returned down that Stream, and has made o[n] up the
river expecting us to follow him up that river. one Deer
killed this evening. all those Streams Contain emence number
of Beaver orter Musk-rats &c.

[Lewis:]

Thursday August 8th. 1805.

We had a heavy dew this morning. as one canoe had been
left we had now more ha[n]ds to spear for the chase; game
being scarce it requires more hunters to supply us. we therefore
dispatched four this morning. we set out at sunrise and
continued our rout up the river which we find much more
gentle and deep than below the entrance of Wisdom river it
is from 35 to 45 yards wide very crooked many short bends
constituteing large and general bends; insomuch that altho'
we travel briskly and a considerable distance yet it takes us
only a few miles on our general course or rout. there is but
very little timber on this fork principally the under brush frequently
mentioned. I observe a considerable quantity of the
buffaloe clover in the bottoms. the sunflower, flax, green
swoard, thistle and several species of the rye grass some of
which rise to the hight of 3 or 4 feet. there is a grass also
with a soft smooth leaf that bears it's seeds very much like the
timothy but it dose not grow very luxouriant or appear as if
it would answer so well as the common timothy for meadows.
I preserved some of it's seeds which are now ripe, thinking
perhaps it might answer better if cultivated, at all events is at
least worth the experiment. it rises about 3 feet high. on a
direct line about 2 miles above our encampment of this morning
we passed the entrance of Philanthrophy River which discharges
itself by 2 channels a small distance assunder. this river

from it's size and S. Eastwardly course no doubt heads with
Madisons river in the snowey mountains visible in that direction.
at Noon Reubin Fields arrived and reported that he
had been up Widsom river some miles above where it entered
the mountain and could find nothing of Shannon, he had killed
a deer and an Antelope. great quantity of beaver Otter and
musk-rats in these rivers. two of the hunters we sent out
this morning returned at noon had killed each a deer and an
Antelope. we use the seting poles today almost altogether.
we encamped on the Lard side where there was but little timber
were obliged to use willow brush for fuel; the rosebushes and
bryers were very thick. the hunters brought in another deer
this evening. t[h]e tumor on Capt. Clarks ankle has discharged
a considerable quantity of matter but is still much
swolen and inflamed and gives him considerable pain. saw a
number of Gees ducks and some Crains today. the former
begin to fly. the evening again proved cloudy much to my
mortification and prevented my making any lunar observations.
the Indian woman recognized the point of a high plain to our
right which she informed us was not very distant from the
summer retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains
which runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the
beaver's head from a conceived re[se]mblance of it's figure to
the head of that animal.[12] she assures us that we shall either
find her people on this river or on the river immediately west
of it's source; which from it's present size cannot be very distant.
as it is now all important with us to meet with those
people as soon as possible I determined to proceed tomorrow
with a small party to the source of the principal stream of this
river and pass the mountains to the Columbia; and down that
river until I found the Indians; in short it is my resolusion
to find them or some others, who have horses if it should cause
me a trip of one month. for without horses we shall be obliged
to leave a great part of our stores, of which, it appears to me
that we have a stock already sufficiently small for the length
of the voyage before us.

Courses and Distance of August 8th. 1805.

     

South	2	Miles to the upper or principal entrance of Philanthrophy River on Lard. being 5 Miles by water, passing seven bends on the Lard. side, two islands and several bayous. this river is 30 yds. wide is navigable and heads in the Rocky Mountains with Madison's River.
S. 20. W.	6.	to a few high trees on the Stard. side, the river bending to the East two miles from this course. and the distance by water 14 miles passing an island at 1 M. another at 7 M. several small bayous and 35 bends on Strd. side the majority of the bends being short and circular.
Miles	8.

[Clark:]

August 8th. Thursday 1805

We proceeded on early wind from the SW. The Thermomete[r]
at 52. a.o. at Sun rise at 5 miles by water & 4 1/2
on a derect line from the forks we passed a River on the Lard
Side 30 yards wide and navagable for Some distance takeing its
rise in the Mountains Easterly & with the waters of Madisons
River, passes thro an extensive vallie open & furtill&c. this
river we call Philanthophy. above this river (which has but
little timber) Jeffersons R is crooked with Short bends a fiew
Islands and maney gravelly Sholes, no large timber, Small
Willow Birch & Srubs &c. Encamped on the Lard Side, R
Fields joined us this eveng. & informes that he could not find
Shannon my foot yet verry Suore

[Lewis:]

Friday August 9th 1805.

The morning war fair and fine; we set out at an early hour
and proceeded on very well. some parts of the river more
rapid than yesterday. I walked on shore across the land to a
point which I presumed they would reach by 8. A. M. our
usual time of halting. by this means I acquired leasure to accomplish
some wrightings which I conceived from the nature of

my instructions necessary lest any accedent should befall me on
the long and reather hazardous rout I was now about to take.
the party did not arrive and I returned about a mile and met
them, here they halted and we breakfasted; I had killed two
fine gees on my return. while we halted here Shannon arrived,
and informed us that having missed the party the day on which
he set out he had returned the next morning to the place from
whence he had set out or furst left them and not finding [them]
that he had supposed that they wer above him; that he then set
out and marched one day up wisdom river, by which time he was
convinced that they were not above him as the river could not
be navigated; he then returned to the forks and had pursued
us up this river. he brought the skins of three deer which he
had killed which he said were in good order. he had lived very
plentifully this trip but looked a good deel worried with his
march. he informed us that Wisdom river still kept it's course
obliquely down the Jefferson's river as far as he was up it[13] .
immediately after breakfast I slung my pack and set out accompanyed
by Drewyer Shields and Mc. Neal who had been
previously directed to hold themselves in readiness for this service.
I directed my course across the bottom to the Stard. plain
left the beaver's head about 2 Miles to my left and interscepted
the river about 8 miles from the point at which I had left it;
I then waded it and continued my rout to the point where I
could observe that it entered the mountain, but not being able
to reach that place, changed my direction to the river which I
struck some miles below the mountain and encamped for the
evening having traveled 16. M. we passed a handsom little
stream formed by some large spring[s] which rise in this wide
bottom on the Lard. side of the river. we killed two Antelopes
on our way and brought with us as much meat as was necessary
for our suppers and breafast the next morning. we found
this bottom fertile and covered with taller grass than usual. the
river very crooked much divided by islands, shallow, rocky in
many plases and very rapid; insomuch that I have my doubts
whether the canoes could get on or not, or if they do it must
be with great labour. Capt. Clark proceeded after I left him
as usual, found the currant of the river increasing in rapidity
towards evening. his hunters killed 2 antelopes only. in the
evening it clouded up and we experienced a slight rain attended
with some thunder and lightning. the musquetoes very troublesome
this evening. there are some soft bogs in these vallies
covered with turf. the earth of which this mud is composed
is white or bluish white and appears to be argillacious.

Courses and distances travelled by Capt. Clark and party on the 9th. of
August 1805.

     

S. 12°. W.	4.	to a Stard. bend, passing two islands and 16 short circular bends on the Stard. side the distance by way of the river being 11 Miles.
S. 10°. E.	1.	to a high bottom on Lard. distance by water 3. M. passing an island, a bayou and 4 short bends on Stard. side.
Miles	5

[Clark:]

August 9th. Friday 1805—

a fine morning wind from the N.E. we proceeded on
verry well rapid places more noumerous than below, Shannon
the man whome we lost on Wisdom River Joined us, haveing
returned to the forks & prosued us up after prosueing Wisdom
River one day.

Capt Lewis and 3 men Set out after brackft. to examine the
river above, find a portage if possible, also the Snake Indians.
I Should have taken this trip had I have been able to march,
from the rageing fury of a tumer on my anckle musle, in the
evening Clouded up and a fiew drops of rain Encamped on
the Lard Side near a low bluff,[14] the river to day as yesterday,
the three hunters Could kill only two antelopes to day, game
of every kind scerce.

[Lewis:]

Saturday August 10th. 1805.

We set out very early this morning and continued our rout
through the wide bottom on the Lard. side of the river. after
passing a large creek at about 5 miles we fel in with a plain Indian

road which led towards the point that the river entered
the mountain we therefore pursued the road I sent Drewyer
to the wright to kill a deer which we saw feeding and halted on
the river under an immencely high perpendicular clift of rocks
where it entered the mountain here we kindled a fire and
waited for Drewyer. he arrived in about an hour and a half or
at noon with three deer skins and the flesh of one of the best
of them; we cooked and eat a haisty meal and departed, returning
a sho[r]t distance to the Indian road which led us the
best way over the mountains, which are not very high but ar[e]
ruggid and approach the river closely on both sides just below
these mountains I saw several bald Eagles and two large
white headed fishinghawks boath these birds were the same
common to our country. from the number of rattle snakes
about the Clifts at which we halted we called them the rattle
snake clifts. this serpent is the same before discribed with
oval spots of yellowish brown. the river below the mountains
is rapid rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands and
withal shallow. after it enters the mountains it's bends are not
so circuetous and it's geneal course more direct, but it is equally
shallow les[s] divided more rocky and rapid. we continued
our rout along the Indian road which led us sometimes over the
hills and again in the narrow bottoms of the river till at the distance
of fifteen Ms. from the rattle snake Clifts we arrived in a
ha[n]dsome open and leavel vally where the river divided itself
nearly into two equal branches; here I halted and examined
those streams and readily discovered from their size that it
would be vain to attempt the navigation of either any further.
here also the road forked one leading up the vally of each
of these streams.[15] I therefore sent Drewer on one and
Shields on the other to examine these roads for a short distance
and to return and compare their information with respect
to the size and apparent plainness of the roads as I was now
determined to pursue that which appeared to have been the
most traveled this spring. in the mean time I wrote a note to
Capt. Clark informing him of the occurrences which had taken
place, recommending it to him to halt at this place untill my
return and enforming him of the rout I had taken which from
the information of the men on their return seemed to be in
favour of the S W or Left hand fork which is reather the
smallest. accordingly I put up my note on a dry willow pole
at the forks, and set out up the S.E. fork, after proceeding
about 1 1/2 miles I discovered that the road became so blind
that it could not be that which we had followed to the forks of
Jefferson's river; neither could I find the tracks of the horses
which had passed early in the spring along the other; I therefore
determined to return and examine the other myself, which
I did, and found that the same horses had passed up the West
fork which was reather [the] largest, and more in the direction
that I wished to pursue; I therefore did not hesitate about
changing my rout but determined to take the western road.
I now wrote a second note to Capt C. informing him of this
change and sent Drewyer to put it with the other at the forks
and waited until he returned. there is scarcely any timber on
the river above the Rt. Snake Clifts, nor is there anything
larger than willow brush in sight of these forks. immediately
in the level plain between the forks and about 1/2 a mile distance
from them stands a high rocky mountain, the base of
which is surrounded by the level plain; it has a singular appearance.
the mountains do not appear very high in any direction
tho' the tops of some of them are partially covered with
snow. this convinces me that we have ascended to a great
hight since we have entered the rocky Mountains, yet the
ascent has been so gradual along the vallies that it was scarcely
perceptable by land.[16] I do not believe that the world can furnish
an example of a river runing to the extent which the
Missouri and Jefferson's rivers do through such a mountainous
country and at the same time so navigable as they are. if the
Columbia furnishes us such another example, a communication
across the continent by water will be practicable and safe. but
this I can scarcely hope from a knowledge of its having in it[s]
comparitively short course to the ocean the same number of
feet to decend which the Missouri and Mississippi have from
this point to the Gulph of Mexico.

The valley of the west fork through which we passed for
four miles boar a little to N of West and was about 1 mile
wide hemned in on either side by rough mountain and steep
Clifts of rock at 4 1/2 miles this stream enters a beatifull and
extensive plain about ten miles long and from 5 to six in width.
this plain is surrounded on all sides by a country of roling or
high wavy plains through which several little rivulets extend
their wide vallies quite to the Mountains which surround the
whole in an apparent Circular manner; forming one of the
handsomest coves [Shoshone] I ever saw, of about 16 or 18
miles in diameter.[17] just after entering this cove the river
bends to the N.W. and runs close under the Stard. hills. here
we killed a deer and encamped on the Stard. side and made our
fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel which the country produces.
there are not more than three or four cottonwood
trees in this extensive cove and they are but small. the uplands
are covered with prickly pears and twisted or bearded grass
and are but poor; some parts of the bottom lands are covered
with grass and tolerably fertile; but much the greater proportion
is covered with prickly pears, sedge, twisted grass, the
pulpy leafed thorn southernwood wild sage &c and like the
uplands is very inferior in point of soil. we traveled by estimate
30 Ms. today, that is 10 to the Rattle Snake Clift, 15 to
the forks of Jefferson's river and 5 to our camp in the cove.
at the apparent extremity of the bottom above us two perpendicular
clifts of considerable hight stand on either side of the
river and uppers (appears) at this distance like a gate, it is about
10 M. due West.

Capt Clark set out at sun rise this morning and pursued his
rout; found the river not rapid but shallow also very crooked.
they were obliged to drag the canoes over many riffles in the
course of the day. they passed the point which the natives

call the beaver's head. it is a steep rocky clift of 150 feet high
near the Stard. side of the river, opposite to it at the distance
of 300 yards is a low clift of about 50 feet which is the extremity
of a spur of the mountains about 4 miles distant on Lard.
at 4. P.M. they experienced a heavy shower of rain attended
with hail thunder and Lightning which continued about an
hour. the men defended themselves from the hail by means
of the willow bushes but all the party got perfectly wet. after
the shower was over they pursued their march and encamped
on the Stard side. only one deer killed by their hunters today.
tho' they took up another by the way which had been killed
three days before by Jos. Fields and hung up near the river.

Courses and distances traveled by Capt. Clark August 10th. 1805.

     

S. 30°. W.	2.	to a Clift of rocks on Stard. 150 feet high called by the natives the beaver's head. distance by water 6 1/2 miles, passing 8 bends on the Stard. side and 2 small bayous on Lard.
S. 60°. W.	2.	to a low bluff on the Lard. side, distance by water 6 1/2 miles, passing four islands and 18 bends on Stard. side and a low bluff and several bayous on the same side or Stard.
Miles	4

[Clark:]

August 10th. Saiturday 1805

Some rain this morning at Sun rise and Cloudy we proceeded
on passed a remarkable Clift point on the Stard. Side
about 150 feet high, this Clift the Indians Call the Beavers head,
opposit at 300 yards is a low clift of 50 feet which is a Spur
from the Mountain on the Lard. about 4 miles, the river verry
Crooked, at 4 oClock a hard rain from the S W accompanied
with hail Continued half an hour, all wet, the men Sheltered
themselves from the hail with bushes. We Encamped on the
Stard. Side near a Bluff, only one Deer killed to day, the one
killed [by] Jo Fields 3 Days past & hung up we made use of
river narrow, & Sholey but not rapid.