University of Virginia Library

Chapter XI

PORTAGING AROUND THE GREAT FALLS

XI. Lewis's Journal, June 21–July 14, 1805
Clark's Journal, June 21–July 14

[Lewis:]

Friday June 21st. 1805.

THIS morning I employed the greater part of the men
in transporting a part of the bagage over portage
creek to the top of the high plain about three miles in
advance on the portage. I also had one canoe carryed on truck
wheles to the same place and put the baggage in it, in order to
make an early start in the morning, as the rout of our portage
is not yet entirely settled, and it would be inconvenient to
remain in the open plain all night at a distance from water,
which would probably be the case if we did not set out early as
the latter part of the rout is destitute of water for about 8
miles. having determined to go to the upper part of the portage
tomorrow, in order to prepare my boat and receive and
take care of the stores as they were transported, I caused the
Iron frame of the boat and the necessary tools my private
baggage and Instruments to be taken as a part of this load,
also the baggage of Joseph Fields, Serg.t Gass and John sheilds,
whom I had scelected to assist me in constructing the leather
boat. Th[r]ee men were employed today in shaving the Elk
skins which had ben collected for the boat. the ballance of
the party were employed in cuting the meat we had killed
yesterday into thin fletches and drying it, and in bring[ing] in
the ballance of what had been left over the river with three
men last evening. I readily preceive several difficulties in
preparing the leather boat which are the want of convenient
and proper timber, bark, skins, and above all that of pitch to
pay her seams, a deficiency that I really know not how to surmount

The Great Falls and Portage of the Missouri River,
from Clark's note-book.

unless it be by means of tallow and pounded charcoal
which mixture has answered a very good purpose on our
wooden canoes heretofore. I have seen for the first time on
the Missouri at these falls, a species of fishing ducks with
white wings, brown and white body and the head and part of
the neck adjoining of a brick red, and the beak narrow; which
I take to be the same common to James river, the Potomac
and Susquehanna.[1] immence numbers of buffaloe comeing to
the river as usual. the men who remained over the river last
night killed several mule deer, and Willard who was with me
killed a young Elk. The wind blew violently all day. The
growth of the neighbourhood what little there is consists of the
broad and narrow leafed cottonwood, box alder, the large or
sweet willow, the narrow and broad leafed willow. the sweet
willow has not been common to the Missouri below this or the
entrance of Maria's river; here [it] attains to the same size
and in appearance much the same as in the Atlantic States.
the undergrowth consists of rosebushes, goosberry and current
bushes, honeysuckle small, and the red wood, the inner bark
of which the engages are fond of smoking mixed with tobacco.

[Clark:]

June 21st.. Friday 1805

a fine morning wind from the SW. off the mountains and
hard, Capt Lewis with the men except a few take a part of
the baggage & a Canoe up the Hill 3 mile in advance, several
men employed in shaveing & graneing Elk hides for the Iron
boat as it is called. 3 men were sent up the Medison river
yesterday to kill Elk for the skins for the boat, I fear that
we shall be put to some dificuelty in precureing Elk skins
sufficent, cloudy afternoon, we dry meat for the men to eat
on their return from the upper part of the portage. Capt
Lewis determine to proceed to the upper part of the Portage
tomorrow & with 3 men proceed to fix the Iron boat with
skins &c. &c.

[Lewis:]

Saturday June 22nd. 1805.

This morning early Capt Clark and myself with all the party
except Sergt. Ordway Sharbono, Goodrich, York and the Indian
woman, set out to pass the portage with the canoe and baggage
to the Whitebear Island, where we intend that this portage
shall end. Capt. Clarke piloted us through the plains. about
noon we reached a little stream about 8 miles on the portage
where we halted and dined; we were obliged here to renew
both axeltrees and the tongues and howns of one set of wheels
which took us no more than 2 hours. these parts of our carriage
had been made of cottonwood and one axe[l]tree of an
old mast, all of which proved deficient and had broken down
several times before we reached this place we have now
renewed them with the sweet willow and hope that they will
answer better. after dark we had reached within half a mile
of our intended camp when the tongues gave way and we were
obliged to leave the canoe, each man took as much of the
baggage as he could carry on his back and proceeded to the
river where we formed our encampment much fortiegued.
the prickly pears were extreemly troublesome to us sticking
our feet through our mockersons. Saw a great number of
buffaloe in the plains, also immence quantities of little birds
and the large brown curloo; the latter is now seting; it lays
it's eggs, which are of a p[a]le blue with black specks, on the
ground without any preperation of a nest. there is a kind of
larke here that much resembles the bird called the oldfield
lark with a yellow brest and a black spot on the croop; tho'
this differs from ours in the form of the tail which is pointed
being formed of feathers of unequal length; the beak is
somewhat longer and more curved and the note differs considerably;
however in size, action, and colours there is no
perceptable difference; or at least none that strikes my eye.
after reaching our camp we kindled our fires and examined the
meat which Capt. Clark had left, but found only a small proportion
of it, the wolves had taken the greater part. we eat
our suppers and soon retired to rest.

[Clark:]

June 22nd.. Satturday 1805

a fine morning Capt Lewis my self and all the party except
a Serjeant Ordway Guterich and the Interpreter and his wife
Sar-car-gah-we-â (who are left at camp to take care of the
baggage left) across the portage with one canoe on truck
wheels and loaded with a part of our baggage I piloted thro
the plains to the camp I [made] at which place I intended the
portage to end which is 3 miles above the medesin River we
had great dificuelty in getting on as the axeltree broke several
times, and the cuppling tongus of the wheels, which was of
cotton & willow, the only wood except Boxelder & [blank
space in MS.] that grow in this quarter, we got within half
a mile of our intended camp much fatigued at dark, our
tongus broke & we took a load to the river on the mens back,
where we found a number of wolves which had distroyed a
great part of our meat which I had left at that place when I
was up day before yesterday. we soon went to sleep & slept
sound wind from the [blank space in MS.] we deturmine
to employ every man cooks & all on the portage after to day.

[Lewis:]

Sunday June 23rd. 1805.

This morning early I scelected a place for the purpose of
constructing my boat, near the water under some shady willows.
Capt. Clark had the Canoe and baggage brought up,
after which we breakfasted and nearly consumed the meat
which he had left her[e]. he now set out on his return with
the party. I employed the three men with me in the forenoon
clearing away the brush and forming our camp, and puting
the frame of the boat together. this being done I sent Shields
and Gass to look out for the necessary timber, and with J.
Fields decended the river in the canoe to the mouth of Medicine
river in surch of the hunters whom I had dispatched
thither on the 19th. inst. and from whom we had not heard a
sentence. I entered the mouth of Medicine river and ascended
it about half a mile when we landed and walked up
the Stard. side. frequently [w]hooping as we went on in order
to find the hunters; at length after ascending the river about

five miles we found Shannon who had passed the Medecine
river & fixed his camp on the Lard. side, where he had killed
seven deer and several buffaloe and dryed about 600 lbs. of
buffaloe meat; but had killed no Elk. Shannon could give
me no further account of R. Fields and Drewyer than that he
had left them about noon on the 19th at the great falls and had
come on [to] the mouth of Medicine river to hunt Elk as he
had been directed, and never had seen them since. the evening
being now far spent I thought it better to pass the Medicine
river and remain all night at Shannon's camp; I passed
the river on a raft which we soon constructed for the purpose.
the river is here about 80 Yds. wide, is deep and but a moderate
current. the banks low as those of the Missouri above the
falls yet never appear to overflow. as it will give a better
view of the transactions of the party, I shall on each day give
the occurences of both camps during our seperation as I afterwards
learnt those of the lower camp from Capt. Clark. on his
return today he cut of[f] several angles of the rout by which
we came yesterday, shortened the portage considerably; measured
it and set up stakes throughout as guides to marke the
rout. he returned this evening to the lower camp in sufficient
time to take up two of the canoes from portage creek to the
top of the plain about a mile in advance. this evening the
men repaired their mockersons, and put on double souls to
protect their feet from the prickley pears. during the late
rains the buffaloe have troden up the praire very much which
having now become dry the sharp points of earth as hard as
frozen ground stand up in such abundance that there is no
avoiding them. this is particular[l]y severe on the feet of the
men who have not only their own weight to bear in treading
on those hacklelike points but have also the addition of the
burthen which they draw and which in fact is as much as they
can possibly move with. they are obliged to halt and rest
frequently for a few minutes, at every halt these poor fellows
tumble down and are so much fortiegued that many of them
are asleep in an instant; in short their fatiegues are incredible;
some are limping from the soreness of their feet, others faint
and unable to stand for a few minutes, with heat and fatiegue,
yet no one complains, all go with cheerfullness. in evening
Reubin Fields returned to the lower camp and informed Capt.
Clark of the absence of Shannon, with rispect to whome they
were extreemly uneasy. Fields and Drewyer had killed several
buffaloe at the bend of the missouri above the falls and
had dryed a considerable quantity of meat; they had also
killed several deer but no Elk.

[Clark:]

June 23rd.. Sunday 1805

a cloudy morning wind from the S.E. after getting the
Canoe to camp & the articles left in the plains we eate brackfast
of the remaining meat found in camp & I with the party
the truck wheels & poles to stick up in the prarie as a guide,
set out on our return, we proceeded on, & measured the way
which I streightened considerably from that I went on yesterday,
and arrived at our lower camp in sufficent time to take
up 2 canoes on the top of the hill from the creek, found all
safe at camp the men mended their mockersons with double
soles to save their feet from the prickley pear, (which abounds
in the Praries,) and the hard ground which in some & maney
places [is] so hard as to hurt the feet verry much, the emence
number of Buffalow after the last rain has trod the flat places
in such a manner as to leave it uneaven, and that has tried [dried]
and is worst than frozen ground, added to those obstructions,
the men has to haul with all their strength wate & art, maney
times every man all catching the grass & knobes & stones with
their hands to give them more force in drawing on the Canoes
& Loads, and notwithstanding the coolness of the air in high
presperation and every halt, those not employed in reparing
the course, are asleep in a moment, maney limping from the
soreness of their feet some become fant for a fiew moments, but
no man complains all go chearfully on. to state the fatigues
of this party would take up more of the journal than other
notes which I find scercely time to set down. I had the best
rout staked out and measured which is 17 miles 3/4 to the river
& 1/2 a mile up i.e. 18 1/4 miles Portage. from the lower rapid
to the 1st. creek is 286 poles, to a Deep run of water, called

willow run is 6 miles thence to the river 3 miles above medison
river at 3 Islands called White Bear Islands is 11 miles all
prarie without wood or water except at the creeks & run which
afford a plenty of fine water and a little wood the plain is
tolerably leavel except at the river a small assent & passing a
low hill from the creek a rough & steep assent for about 1/4 of
a mile and several gullies & a gradual hill for 1 1/2 miles the
heads of several gullies which have short assents & the willow
run of a steep hill on this run grows Purple & red Currents.
the red is now ripe the Purple full grown, an emence number
of Prarie burds now sitting of two kinds one larger than a
Sparrow dark yellow the center feathers of its tail yellow & the
out sides black some streeks about its neck, the other about
the same size [with] white tail

[Lewis:]

Monday June 24th. 1805.

Supposing that Drewyer and R. Fields might possibly be
still higher up medicine river, I dispatched J. Fields up the
river with orders to proceede about four miles and then return
whether he found them or not and join Shannon at this camp.
I set out early and walked down the South West side of the
river and sent Shannon down the opposite side to bring the
canoe over to me and put me across the Missouri; having
landed on the Lard. side of the Missouri I sent Shannon back
with the canoe to meet J. Fields and bring the dryed meat at
that place to the camp at the white bear Islands which [he]
accomplished and arrived with Fields this morning the party
also arrived this evening with two canoes from the lower camp.
they were wet and fatiegued, gave them a dram. R. Fields
came with them and gave me an account of his & Drewyer's
hunt, and informed me that Drewyer was still at their camp
with the meat they had dryed. the iron frame of my boat is
36 feet long 4 1/2 F. in the beam and 26 Inches in the hole.

This morning early Capt. Clark had the remaining canoe
drawn out of the water; and divided the remainder of our baggage
into three parcels, one of which he sent today by the
party with two canoes. The Indian woman is now perfectly
recovered. Capt. C. came a few miles this morning to see the

party under way and returned. on my arrival at the upper
camp this morning, I found that Sergt. Gass and Shields had
made but slow progress in collecting timber for the boat; they
complained of great difficulty in geting streight or even tolerably
streight sticks of 4 1/2 feet long. we were obliged to make
use of the willow and box alder, the cottonwood being too soft
and brittle. I kept one of them collecting timber while the
other shaved and fitted them. I have found some pine logs
among the drift wood near this place, from which, I hope to
obtain as much pitch as will answer to pay the seams of the
boat. I directed Fraizer to remain in order to sew the hides
together, and form the covering for the boat.

[Clark:]

June 24th. Monday 1805

A cloudy morning I rose early had the remaining canoe
hauled out of the water to dry and devided the baggage into
3 parcels, one of which the party took on their backs & one
waggon with truck wheels to the canoes 3 miles in advance
(Those canoes or 5 of our canoes were carried up the creek 1 3/4
of a mile taken out on the bank and left to dry from which
place they are taken up a point and [that] intersects this rout
from the mouth of the creek at 3 miles from the foot of the
rapids) after getting up their loads they devided men & load
& proceeded on with 2 canoes on truck wheels as before, I
accompaned them 4 miles and returned, my feet being verry
sore from the walk over ruts stones & hills & thro the leavel
plain for 6 days proceeding carrying my pack and gun. Some
few drops of rain in the fore part of the day, at 6 oClock a
black cloud arose to the N West, the wind shifted from the S
to that point and in a short time the earth was entirely covered
with hail, some rain succeeded, which continued for about an
hour very moderately on this side of the river, without the
earths being wet 1/2 an inch, the riveens on the opposit or
N W. Side discharged emence torrents of water into the river,
& showed evidently that the rain was much heavyer on that
side, some rain at different times in the night which was worm.
Thunder without lightning accompanied the hail cloud

[Lewis:]

Tuesday June 25th 1805.

This morning early I sent the party back to the lower camp;
dispatched Frazier down with the canoe for Drewyer and the
meat he had collected, and Joseph Fields up the Missouri to
hunt Elk. at eight OCIK. sent Gass and Shields over to the
large Island for bark and timber. about noon Fields returned
and informed me that he had seen two white bear near the
river a few miles above and in attempting to get a shoot [at]
them had stumbled uppon a third which immediately made at
him being only a few steps distant; that in runing in order to
escape from the bear he had leaped down a steep bank of the
river on a stony bar where he fell cut his hand bruised his
knees and bent his gun, that fortunately for him the bank hid
him from the bear when he fell and that by that means he
had escaped. this man has been truly unfortunate with these
bear, this is the second time that he has narrowly escaped from
them. about 2 P.M. Shields and Gass returned with but a
small quantity of both bark and timber and informed me that
it was all they could find on the Island; they had killed two
Elk the skins of which and a part of the flesh they brought
with them. in the evening Drewyer and Frazier arrived with
about 800 lb.s of excellent dryed meat and about 100 lbs. of
tallow. The river is about 800 yds. wide opposite to us above
these islands, and has a very gentle current the bottoms are
ha[n]dsome level and extensive on both sides; the bank on
this side is not more than 2 feet (Qu) above the level of the
water; it is a pretty little grove in which our camp is situated.
there is a species of wild rye which is now heading it rises to
the hight of 18 or 20 inches, the beard is remarkably fine and
soft it is a very handsome grass the culm is jointed and is in
every rispect the wild rye in minuture. great quantities of
mint also are here it resemble[s] the pepper mint very much
in taste and appearance. the young black-birds which are
almost innumerable in these islands just begin to fly. see a
number of water tarripens.[2] I have made an unsuccessfull

attempt to catch fish, and do not think there are any in this
part of the river. The party that returned this evening to the
lower camp reached it in time to take one canoe on the plain
and prepare their baggage for an early start in the morning
after which such as were able to shake a foot amused themselves
in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which
Cruzatte plays extreemly well. Capt. C. somewhat unwell
today. he made Charbono kook for the party against their
return. it is worthy of remark that the winds are sometimes
so strong in these plains that the men informed me that they
hoisted a sail in the canoe and it had driven her along on the
truck wheels. this is really sailing on dry land.

[Clark:]

June 25th.. Tuesday 1805

a fair worm morning, clouded & a few drops of rain at 5
oClock A.M. fair I feel my self a little unwell with a looseness
&c. &c. put out the stores to dry & set Chabonah &c. to cook for
the party against their return he being the only man left on this
side with me. I had a little coffee for brackfast which was to
me a necessity as I had not tasted any since last winter. The
wind from the N.W. & worm. This countrey has a romantick
appearance river inclosed between high and steep hills cut
to pices by revines but little timber and that confined to the
Rivers & creek, the Missouri has but a fiew scattering trees
on its borders, and only one solitary cotton tree in sight of my
camp the wood which we burn is drift wood which is broken
to pieces in passing the falls, not one large tree longer than
about 8 or 10 feet to be found drifted below the falls the
plains are inferior in point of soil to those below, more stone
on the sides of the hill, grass but a fiew inches high and but
fiew flowers in the Plains, great quantites of Choke Cheries,
Goose burres, red & yellow berries, & red & Purple currents
on the edges of water courses in bottoms & damp places,
about my camp the cliffs or bluffs are a hard red or redish
brown earth containing Iron. we catch great quantities of
Trout, and a kind of mustel, flat backs & a soft fish resembling
a shad and a few Cat. at 5 oClock the party returned, fatigued

as usial, and proceeded to mend their mockersons &c. and G
Shannon & R. Fields to of the men who ware Sent up the
medison river to hunt Elk, they killed no Elk, several
Buffalow & Deer, and reports that the river is 120 yards wide
and above 8 feet deep some timber on its borders. a powerfull
rain fell on the party on their rout yestirday Wet some
fiew articles, and caused the rout to be so bad, wet & Deep
thay could with dificuelty proceed, Capt Lewis & the men
with him much employed with the Iron Boat in fitting it for
the Water, dispatched one man to George Drewyers camp
below medison river for meat &c. a fair after noon. great
numbers of buffalow water opposit to my camp every day. it
may be here worthy of remark that the sales were hois[t]ed in
the Canoes as the men were drawing them and the wind was
great relief to them being sufficently strong to move the canoes
on the Trucks, this is Saleing on Dry land in every sence of
the word. Serjeant N Pryor sick, the party amused themselves
with danceing untill 10 oClock all chearfullness and
good humer, they all tied up their loads to make an early
start in the morning.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday June 26th. 1805.

The Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome to us. This
morning early I dispatched J. Fields and Drewyer in one of
the canoes up the river to hunt Elk. set Frazier at work to
sew the skins together for the covering of the boat. Sheilds
and Gas[s] I sent over the river to surch a small timbered
bottom on that side opposite to the Islands for timber and
bark; and to myself I assign the duty of cook as well for
those present as for the party which I expect again to arrive
this evening from the lower camp. I collected my wood and
water, boiled a large quantity of excellent dryed buffaloe meat
and made each man a large suet dumpling by way of a treat.
about 4 P.M. Shields and Gass returned with a better supply
of timber than they had yet collected tho' not by any means
enough. they brought some bark principally of the Cottonwood

which I found was too brittle and soft for the purpose;
for this article I find my only dependence is the sweet willow
which has a tough & strong bark. Shields and Gass had killed
seven buffaloe in their absence, the skins of which and a part
of the best of the meat they brought with them. if I cannot
procure a sufficient quantity of Elk's skins I shall substitute
those of the buffaloe. late in the evening the party arrived
with two more canoes and another portion of the baggage.
Whitehouse one of them much heated and fortiegued on his
arrivall d[r]ank a very hearty draught of water and was taken
almost instantly extreemly ill. his pulse were full and I therefore
bled him plentifully from which he felt great relief. I had
no other instrument with which to perform this opperation but
my penknife, however it answered very well. the wind being
from S.E. today and favourable the men made considerable
progress by means of their sails.

At the lower Camp. The party set out very early from this
place, and took with them two canoes and a second alotment
of baggage consisting of Parched meal, Pork, powder lead axes,
tools, bisquit, portable soupe, some merchandize and cloathing.
Capt. C. gave Sergt. Pryor a doze of salts this morning and employed
Sharbono in rendering the buffaloe tallow which had
been collected there, he obtained a sufficient quantity to fill
three empty kegs. Capt. C. also scelected the articles to be
deposited in the cash consisting of my desk which I had left for
that purpose and in which I had left some books, my specimens
of plants minerals & c. collected from fort Mandan to that place.
also 2 Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour 2 blunderbushes, 1/2 a
keg of fixed ammunition and some other small articles belonging
to the party which could be dispenced with. deposited the
swivel and carriage under the rocks a little above the camp near
the river. great numbers of buffaloe still continue to water
daily opposite the camp. The antelopes still continue scattered
and seperate in the plains, the females with their young only
of which they generally have two, and the males alone. Capt.
Clarke measured the rout from the Camp at the Whitebear
Islands to the lower camp which is as follows.

             

N. 42°. E.	4	Miles to an elivated point of the plain, the rout is a little to the left of this course first down the river and then turning gradually to the right up a long and gentle ascent to the high plain.
N. 66°. E.	3	M. passing the head of a drane which falls into the Missouri at the 19 feet or crooked fall.
N. 45°. E.	4.	M. to willow run, which always has a plen[ti]full supply of good water. and some timber.
N. 18°. E.	4.	M. passing the head of a drane which falls into the missouri below the great falls.
N. 10°. W.	2.	M. to the entrance of Portage creek. the rout for the canoes is to the right of this course and strikes the creek about 1 3/4 miles from it's entrance, by that means avoiding a very steep hill which lies above Portage creek.
N. 9°. W.	3/4	M. to our camp opposite the last considerable rappid.
Miles	17. 3/4

[Clark:]

June 26th. Wednesday 1805

Some rain last night this morning verry cloudy, the party
set out this morning verry early with their loads to the canoe
consisting of Parched meal Pork Powder Lead axes, Tools
Bisquit, & soup & some Merchendize & Clothes &c. &c. I gave
Serjt. Pryor a dost of salts, & set Chabonah to trying up the
Buffalow tallow & put into the empty Kegs &c. I assort our
articles for to be left at this place buried, [blank space in MS.]
Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour, 2 blunderbuts. [blank space
in MS.] Cattrages a few small lumbersom articles Capt Lewis
Desk and some books & small articles in it

The wind from the N.W. verry worm flying clouds in
the evening the wind shifted round to the East & blew hard,
which is a fair wind for the two canoes to sail on the Plains
across the portage, I had three Kegs of Buffalow Greese tried
up. Great numbers of Buffalow opposite to our Camp watering
to day.

[Lewis:]

Thursday June 27th 1805.

The party returned early this morning for the remaining
canoe and baggage; Whitehouse was not quite well this
morning I therefore detained him and about 10 A.M. set him
at work with Frazier sewing the skins together for the boat;
Shields and gass continued the operation of shaving and fiting
the horizontall bars of wood in the sections of the boat; the
timber is so crooked and indifferent that they make but little
progress, for myself I continued to act the part of cook in
order to keep all hands employed. some Elk came near our
camp and we killed 2 of them. at 1 P.M. a cloud arrose to
the S.W. and shortly after came on attended with violent
Thunder Lightning and hail[3] &c. (see notes on diary of the
weather for June). soon after this storm was over Drewyer
and J. Fields returned. they were about 4 miles above us
during the storm, the hail was of no uncommon size where
they were. They had killed 9 Elk and three bear during
their absence; one of the bear was the largest by far that we
have yet seen; the skin appear[ed] to me to be as large as a
common ox. while hunting they saw a thick brushey bottom
on the bank of the river where from the tracks along shore
they suspected that there were bare concealed; they therefore
landed without making any nois and climbed a leaning tree
and placed themselves on it's branches about 20 feet above the
ground, when thus securely fixed they gave a [w]hoop and
this large bear instantly rushed forward to the place from
whence he had heard the human voice issue, when he arrived
at the tree he made a short paus and Drewyer shot him in the
head. it is worthy of remark that these bear never climb.
the fore feet of this bear measured nine inches across and the
hind feet eleven and 3/4 in length exclusive of the tallons and
seven inches in width. a bear came within thirty yards of our
camp last night and eat up about thirty weight of buffaloe suit
which was hanging on a pole. my dog seems to be in a constant
state of alarm with these bear and keeps barking all night.

soon after the storm this evening the water on this side of the
river became of a deep crimson colour which I p[r]esume proceeded
from some stream above and on this side. there is a
kind of soft red stone in the bluffs and bottoms of the gullies
in this neighbourhood which forms this colouring matter. At
the lower camp. Capt. Clark completed a draught of the river
with the cou[r]ses and distances from the entrance of the Missouri
to F. Mandan, which we intend depositing here in order
to guard against accedents. Sergt. Pryor is somewhat better
this morning. at 4 P.M. the party returned from the upper
camp; Capt. C. gave them a drink of grog; they prepared for
the labour of the next day. soon after the party returned it
began to rain accompanyed by some hail and continued a short
time; a second shower fell late in the evening accompanyed
by a high wind from N.W. the mangled carcases of several
buffaloe pass down the river today which had no doubt perished
in the falls.

[Clark:]

June 27th. Thursday 1805.

a fair warm morning wind from the S.E. and moderate.
Serjt. Pryor something better this morning, I proceed to finish
a rough draugh[t] of the river & Distances to leave at this
place, the wormest day we have had this year, at 4 oClock
the Party returned from the head of the portage soon after
it began to hail and rain hard and continued for a fiew minits
& ceased for an hour and began to rain again with a heavey
wind from the N. W. I refresh the men with a drink of grog
The river beginning to rise a little the water is coloured a
redish brown, the small streams, discharges in great torrents,
and partake of the choler of the earth over which it passes,
a great part of which is light & of a redish brown. Several
Buffalow pass drowned in passing over the falls cloudy all
night, cold

[Lewis:]

Friday June 28th. 1805.

Set Drewyer to shaving the Elk skins, Fields to make the
cross stays for the boat, Frazier and Whitehouse continue

their operation with the skins, Shields and gass finish the
horizontal bars of the sections; after which I sent them in
surch of willow bark, a sufficient supply of which they now
obtained to line the boat. expecting the party this evening
I prepared a supper for them but they did not arrive. not
having quite Elk skins enough I employed three buffaloe
hides to cover one section. not being able to shave these
skins I had them singed pretty closely with a blazeing
torch; I think they will answer tolerable well. The White
bear have become so troublesome to us that I do not think it
prudent to send one man alone on an errand of any kind,
particularly where he has to pass through the brush. we have
seen two of them on the large Island opposite to us today but
are so much engaged that we could not spare the time to hunt
them but will make a frolick of it when the party return and
drive them from these islands. they come close arround our
camp every night but have never yet ventured to attack us and
our dog gives us timely notice of their visits, he keeps constantly
padroling all night. I have made the men sleep with
their arms by them as usual for fear of accedents. the river
is now about nine inches higher than it was on my arrival.
lower Camp. early this morning Capt. C. dispatched the remaining
canoe with some baggage to the top of the plain above
Portage creek three miles in advance; some others he employed
in carrying the articles to the cash and depositing them and
others to mend the carriages which wer somewhat out of repair.
this being accomplished he loaded the two carriages with the
remaining baggage and set out with all the party and proceeded
on with much difficulty to the canoe in the plain. portage
creek had arisen considerably and the water was of a deep
crimson colour and illy tasted. on his arrival at the canoe he
found there was more baggage than he could possibly take at
one load on the two sets of trucks and therefore left some
barrels of pork & flour and a few heavy boxes of amunition
which could not well be injured, and proceeded with the canoe
& one set of trucks loaded with baggage to willow run where
he encamped for the night, and killed two buffaloe to subsist
the party. soon after his arrival at willow run he experienced
a hard shower of rain which was succeeded by a violent wind
from the S.W. off the snowy mountains accompanyed with
rain; the party being cold and wet, he administered the consolation
of a dram to each.

[Clark:]

June 28th.. Friday 1805

a fair morning wind from the South I despatch the remaining
canoe with baggage in hir to the top of the Hill three
miles, imploy some hands in carrying those things we intend
to deposit to the carsh [cache] or whole, some to repareing
one of the trucks &c. &c. the water is riseing and of a redish
brown colour. after covering the carshe & loading the two
carriges with the remaining part of our Baggage we all set out
pased the Creek which had rose a little and the water nearly
red, and bad tasted, we assended the hill to the place the canoe
lay with great labour, at the canoe at which place we left some
boxes & Kegs of Pork & flour for another Load, and proceeded
on with the canoe & what baggage we could draw on the wheels
to willow run 6 miles where we camped. this run mearly some
water remaining in holes &c. Soon after we halted we had a
Shower, and at dark we experinced a most dredfull wind from
off the Snow Mountains to the S.W. accompanied with rain
which continued at intervales all night men wet. I refreshed
them with a dram. Killed 2 Buffalow. Great no8. about

[Lewis:]

Saturday June 29th. 1805.

This morning we experienced a heavy shower of rain for
about an hour after which it became fair. not having seen the
large fountain of which Capt. Clark spoke I determined to visit
it today as I could better spare this day from my attention to
the boat than probably any other when the work would be
further advanced; accordingly after seting the hands at their
several employments I took Drewyer and seet out for the
fountain and passed through a level beautiful plain for about
six miles when I reached the brake of the river hills here we

were overtaken by a violent gust of wind and rain from the
S.W. attended with thunder and Litning. I expected a hail
storm probably from this cloud and therefore took refuge in a
little gully where there were some broad stones with which I
purposed protecting my head if we should have a repetition of
the seene of the 27th. but fortunately we had but little hail
and that not large; I sat very composedly for about an hour
without she[l]ter and took a copious drenching of rain; after
the shower was over I continued my rout to the fountain[4]
which I found much as Capt. C: had discribed & think it may
well be retained on the list of prodegies of this neighbourhood
towards which, nature seems to have dealt with a liberal hand,
for I have scarcely experienced a day since my first arrival in
this quarter without experiencing some novel occurrence among
the party or witnessing the appearance of some uncommon
object. I think this fountain the largest I ever beheld, and
the ha[n]dsome cascade which it affords over some steep and
irregular rocks in it's passage to the river adds not a little to
it's beauty. it is about 25 yds. from the river, situated in a
pretty little level plain, and has a suddon decent of about 6
feet in one part of it's course. the water of this fountain is
extreemly tran[s]parent and cold; nor is it impregnated with
lime or any other extranious matter which I can discover, but
is very pure and pleasent. it's waters marke their passage as
Capt. Clark observes for a considerable distance down the
Missouri notwithstanding it's rapidity and force. the water
of the fountain boil up with such force near it's center that it's
surface in that part seems even higher than the surrounding
earth which is a firm handsom terf of fine green grass. after
amusing myself about 20 minutes in examining the fountain I
found myself so chilled with my wet cloaths that I determined
to return and accordingly set out; on our way to camp we
found a buffaloe dead which we had shot as we came out and
took a parsel of the meat to camp it was in very good order;
the hump and tongue of a fat buffaloe I esteem great delicacies.
on my arrival at camp I was astonished not to find the party
yet arrived, but then concluded that probably the state of the
praries had detained them, as in the wet state in which they
are at present the mud sticks to the wheels is such manner
that they are obliged to halt frequently and clense them.

Transaction and occurrencies which took place with Capt. Clark
and party today. Shortly after the rain which fell early this
morning he found it imposseble from the state of the plains
for the party to reach the upper extremity of the portage with
their present load, and therefore sent back almost all of the
party to bring the baggage which had been left behind yesterday.
he determined himself to pass by the way of the river to
camp in order to supply the deficiency of some notes and
remarks which he had made as he first ascended the river but
which he had unfortunately lost. accordingly he left one man
at Willow run to guard the baggage and took with him his
black man York, Sharbono and his indian woman also accompanyed
Capt. C. on his arrival at the falls he perceived a very
black cloud rising in the West which threatened immediate
rain; he looked about for a shelter but could fine none without
being in great danger of being blown into the river should
the wind prove as violent as it sometimes is on those occasions
in these plains; at length about a 1/4 of a mile above the
falls he discovered a deep rivene where there were some shelving
rocks under which he took shelter near the river with
Sharbono and the Indian woman; laying their guns compass
&c. under a shelving rock on the upper side of the rivene
where they were perfectly secure from the rain. the first
shower was moderate accompanyed by a violent rain the effects
of which they did but little feel; soon after a most violent
torrent of rain decended accompanyed with hail; the rain
appeared to decend in a body and instantly collected in the
rivene and came down in a roling torrent with irrisistable force
driving rocks mud and everything before it which opposed it's
passage, Capt. C. fortunately discovered it a moment before it
reached them and seizing his gun and shot pouch with his left

hand with the right he assisted himself up the steep bluff
shoving occasionally the Indian woman before him who had
her child in her arms; Sharbono had the woman by the hand
indeavouring to pull her up the hill but was so much frightened
that he remained frequently motionless and but for
Capt. C. both himself and his [wo]man and child must have
perished. so suddon was the rise of the water that before
Capt. C. could reach his gun and begin to ascend the bank it
was up to his waist and wet his watch, and he could scarcely
ascend faster than it arrose till it had obtained the debth of 15
feet with a current tremendious to behold. one moment
longer & it would have swept them into the river just above
the great cataract of 87 feet where they must have inevitably
perished. S[h]arbono lost his gun, shot pouch, horn, toma-hawk,
and my wiping rod, Capt. Clark his Umbrella and compass
or circumferenter. they fortunately arrived on the plain
safe, where they found the black man, York, in surch of them;
york had separated from them a little while before the storm,
in pursuit of some buffaloe and had not seen them enter the
rivene; when this gust came on he returned in surch of them
& not being able to find them for some time was much
allarmed. the bier[5] in which the woman carrys her child and
all it's cloaths wer swept away as they lay at her feet she having
time only to grasp her child; the infant was therefore
very cold and the woman also who had just recovered from a
severe indisposition was also wet and cold, Capt. C. therefore
relinquished his intended rout and returned to the camp at
willow run in order also to obtain dry cloathes for himself and
directed them to follow him. On Capt. Clark's arrival at
camp he found that the party dispatched for the baggage had
returned in great confusion and consternation leaving their
loads in the plains; the men who were all nearly naked and
[no] covering on the head were sorely mawled with the hail
which was so large and driven with such force by the wind
that it nocked many of them down and one particular[l]y as
many as three times most of them were bleeding freely and
complained of being much bruised. willow run raised about
6 feet with this rain and the plains were so wet they could do
nothing more this evening. Capt. C. gave the party a dram to
console them in some measure for their general defeat.

[Clark:]

June 29th. Satturday 1805

a little rain very early this morning after[wards] clear,
finding that the Prarie was so wet as to render it impossible to
pass on to the end of the portage, deturmined to send back to
the top of the hill at the creek for the remaining part of the
baggage left at that place yesterday, leaveing one man to take
care of the baggage at this place. I deturmined my self to
proceed on to the falls and take the river, according we all set
out, I took my servent & one man, Chabono our Interpreter
& his Squar accompanied, soon after I arrived at the falls, I
perceived a cloud which appeared black and threaten imediate
rain, I looked out for a shelter but could see no place without
being in great danger of being blown into the river if the wind
should prove as turbelant as it is at some times about 1/4 of a

mile above the falls I obsd a Deep riveen in which was shelveing
rocks under which we took shelter near the river and placed
our guns the compass &c. &c. under a shelving rock on the
upper side of the creek, in a place which was verry secure from
rain, the first shower was moderate accompanied with a violent
wind, the effects of which we did not feel, soon after a torrent
of rain and hail fell more violent than ever I saw before, the
rain fell like one voley of water falling from the heavens and
gave us time only to get out of the way of a torrent of water
which was Poreing down the hill in [to] the River with emence
force tareing every thing before it takeing with it large rocks &
mud, I took my gun & shot pouch in my left hand, and with
the right scrambled up the hill pushing the Interpreters wife
(who had her child in her arms) before me, the Interpreter
himself makeing attempts to pull up his wife by the hand much
scared and nearly without motion, we at length reached the
top of the hill safe where I found my servent in search of us
greatly agitated, for our wellfar. before I got out of the bottom
of the reveen which was a flat dry rock when I entered it, the
water was up to my waste & wet my watch, I scercely got out
before it raised 10 feet deep with a torrent which [was] turrouble
to behold, and by the time I reached the top of the hill,
at least 15 feet water, I derected the party to return to the
camp at the run as fast as possible to get to our Lode where
Clothes could be got to cover the child whose clothes were all
lost, and the woman who was but just recovering from a severe
indisposition, and was wet and cold, I was fearfull of a relaps I
caused her as also the others of the party to take a little spirits,
which my servent had in a canteen, which revived [them] verry
much. on arrival at the camp on the willow run met the party
who had returned in great confusion to the run leaveing their
loads in the Plain, the hail & wind being so large and violent
in the plains, and them naked, they were much brused, and
some nearly killed one knocked down three times, and others
without hats or any thing on their heads bloody & complained
verry much, I refreshed them with a little grog. Soon after
the run began to rise and rose 6 feet in a fiew minets. I lost at
the river in the torrent the large compas, an elegant fusee,
Tomahawk Humbrallo, [Umbrella] shot pouch & horn with
powder & Ball, Mockersons, & the woman lost her childs Bear
& Clothes bedding &c. The Compass, is a serious loss, as we
have no other large one. The plains are so wet that we can do
nothing this evining particularly as two deep reveens are
between ourselves & Load

[Lewis:]

Sunday June 30th. 1805.

We had a heavy dew this morning which is a remarkable
event. Fraizer and Whitehouse still continued their opperation
of sewing the skins together. I set Shields and gass to shaving
bark and Fields continued to make the cross brases. Drewyer
and myself rendered a considerable quantity of tallow and
cooked. I begin to be extremely impatient to be off as the
season is now waisting a pace nearly three months have now
elapsed since we left Fort Mandan and not yet reached the
Rocky Mountains I am therefore fully preswaded that we
shall not reach Fort Mandan again this season if we even return
from the ocean to the Snake Indians. wherever we find timber
there is also beaver; Drewyer killed two today. There are a
number of large bat or goatsucker here I killed one of them
and found that there was no difference between them and those
common to the U' States; I have not seen the leather winged
bat for some time nor is there any of the small goatsuckers in
this quarter of the country. we have not the whip-poor-will
either. this last is by many persons in the U'States confounded
with the large goat-sucker or night-hawk as it is called
in the Eastern States, and are taken for the same bird. it is
true that there is a great resemblance but they are distinct
species of the goatsucker. here the one exists without the
other. the large goat sucker lays it's eggs in these open plains
without the preperation of a nest. we have found their eggs in
several instances they lay only two before they set nor do I
beleive that they raise more than one brood in a season; they
have now just hatched their young. This evening the bark
was shaved and the leather covering for the sections were also
completed and I had them put into the water, in order to

toughen the bark, and prepare the leather for sewing on the
sections in the morning. it has taken 28 Elk skins and 4
Buffaloe skins to complete her. the cross bars are also finished
this evening; we have therefore only the way strips now to
obtain in order to complete the wood work, and this I fear will
be a difficult task. The party have not returned from the
lower camp I am therefore fearfull that some uncommon
accedent has happened.

Occurrences with Capt. Clark and Party.

This morning Capt. Clark dispatched two men to kill some
small buffaloe, two others to the falls to surch for the articles
lost yesterday, one he retained to cook and sent the others for
the baggage left in the plains yesterday. the hunters soon
returned loaded with meat those sent for the baggage brought
it up in a few hours, he then set four men at work to make
axeltrees and repare the carrages; the others he employed in
conveying the baggage over the run on their sholders it having
now fallen to about 3 feet water. the men complained much
today of the bruises and wounds which they had received yesterday
from the hail. the two men sent to the falls returned
with the compas which they found covered in the mud and
sand near the mouth of the revene the other articles were irrecoverably
lost. they found that part of [the] rivene in which
Capt. C. had been seting yesterday filled with huge rocks. at
11 A. M. Capt. Clark dispatched the party with a load of baggage
as far as the 6 mile stake, with orders to deposit it there
and return with the carriages which they did accordingly. they
experienced a heavy gust of wind this evening from the S.W.
after which it was a fair afternoon. more buffaloe than usual
were seen about their camp; Capt. C. assured me that he
beleives he saw at least ten thousand at one view.

Point of Observation No. 29. June 30th. 1805.

At our camp on the Lard. side of the Missouri opposite to the White
bear Islands observed Equal Altitudes of the Sun with Sextant.

Equal Altitudes of ☉'s. L. L.

   

	h m s			h m s
A.M.	8. 50 19.	—	P.M.	5. 51. 54.

I have made several attempts to obtain Equal altitudes since my
arrival here but have been uniformly defeated untill now by the flying
clouds and storms in the evening.

[Clark:]

June 30th. Sunday 1805

a fair morning, I despatch the party except 5 for the remaining
baggage scattered in the plains, two to hunt for meat,
two to the falls, and one to cook at 10 oClock the hunters
came in loaded with fat meat, & those [who] were despatched
for the baggage returned with it. I set 4 men to make new
axeltrees & repare the carrages, others to take the load across
the river which had fallen & is about 3 feet water, Men complain
of being Soore this day dull and lolling about, The two
men dispatched in serch of the articles lost yesterday returned
and brought the compass which they found in the mud &
stones near the mouth of the reveen, no other articles found,
the place I sheltered under filled up with hugh Rocks. I set
the party out at 11 oClock to take a load to the 6 mile stake
& return this evening, and I intend to take on the ballance to
the river tomorrow if the prarie will permit. at 3 oClock a
storm of wind from the S.W. after which we had a clear evening.
Great numbers of Buffalow in every derection. I think
10,000 may be seen in a view.

[Lewis:]

Monday July 1st. 1805.

This morning I set Frazier and Whitehouse to sewing the
leather on the sides of the sections of the boat; Shields and J.
Fields to collect and split light wood and prepare a pit to make
tar. Gas[s] I set at work to make the way strips out of some
willow limbs which tho' indifferent were the best which could
be obtained. Drewyer and myself completed the opperation
of rendering the tallow; we obtained about 100 lbs. by evening
the skins were all attached to their sections and I returned

them again to the water. all matters were now in readiness to
commence the opperation of puting the parts of the boat together
in the morning. the way strips are not yet ready but
will be done in time as I have obtained the necessary timber.
the difficulty in obtaining the necessary materials has retarded
my operations in forming this boat extreemly tedious and
troublesome; and as it was a novel peice of machinism to all
who were employed my constant attention was necessary to
every part of the work; this together with the duties of cheif
cook has kept me pretty well employed. at 3 P.M. Capt.
Clark arrived with the party all very much fortiegued. he
brought with him all the baggage except what he had deposited
yesterday at the six mile stake, for which the party
were too much fortiegued to return this evening. we gave
them a dram and suffered them to rest from their labours this
evening. I directed Bratton to assist in making the tar tomorrow,
and scelected several others to assist in puting the
boat together. the day has been warm and the Musquetoes
troublesome of course the bear were about our camp all last
night, we have therefore determined to beat up their quarters
tomorrow, and kill them or drive them from their haunts about
this place.[6]

[Clark, first draft:]

White Bear Islands above the Falls of the Missouri July 1st. Monday 1805—

I arrived at this place to day at 3 oClock P.M. with the
party from the lower part of the portage[7] much fatigued &c.

[Clark:]

July 1st. Monday 1805.

We set out early this morning with the remaining load, and
proceeded on verry well to Capt Lewis's camp where we arrived
at 3 oClock, the Day worm and party much fatigued,

found Capt. Lewis and party all buisey employed in fitting up
the Iron boat, the wind hard from the S.W. one man verry
unwell, his legs & thies broke out and Swelled, the hail which
fell at Capt. Lewis camp 27 Int. was 7 Inches in circumference
& waied 3 ounces, fortunately for us it was not so large in the
plains, if it had [been] we should most certainly fallen victims
to its rage as the men were mostly naked, and but few with hats
or any covering on their heads, The hunters killed 3 white
bear one large, the fore feet of which measured 9 Inches across,
the hind feet 11 Inches 3/4 long & 7 Inches wide a bear
[came] naarly catching Joseph Fields chased him into the
water, bear about the camp every night & seen on an Isld in
the day

[Lewis:]

Tuesday July 2nd. 1805.

A shower of rain fell very early this morning after which we
dispatched the men for the remaining baggage at the 6 mile
stake. Shields and Bratton seting their tar-kiln, Serg.ts Pryor
and Gass at work on the waystrips and myself and all other
hands engaged in puting the boat together which we accomplished
in about 3 hours and I then set four men at work
sewing the leather over the cross bars of Iron on the inner side
of the boat, which form the ends of the sections. about 2
P.M. the party returned with the baggage, all well pleased that
they had completed the laborious task of portage. The Musquetoes
uncommonly troublesome. the wind hard from the
S.W. I think it possible that these almost perpetual S. W.
winds, proceede from the agency of the Snowey Mountains
and the wide level and untimbered plains which streach themselves
along their bases for an immence distance (i. e.) that the
air comeing in contact with the snow is suddonly chilled and
condenced, thus becoming heav[i]er than the air beneath in
the plains, it glides down the sides of these mountains & decends
to the plains, where by the constant action of the sun
on the face of an untimbered country there is a partial vacuum
formed for it's reception. I have observed that the winds from

this quarter are always the coldest and most violent which we
experience, yet I am far from giving full credit to my own
hypothesis on this subject; if ho[w]ever I find on the opposite
side of these mountains that the winds take a contrary direction
I shall then have more faith. After I had completed my observation
of Equal altitudes today Capt. Clark Myself and 12 men
passed over to the large Island to hunt bear. the brush in
that part of it where the bear frequent is an almost impenitrable
thicket of the broad leafed willow; this brush we entered in
small parties of 3 or four together and surched in every part.
we found one only which made at Drewyer and he shot him in
the breast at the distance of about 20 feet, the ball fortunately
passed through his heart, the stroke knocked the bear down
and gave Drewyer time to get out of his sight; the bear
changed his course we pursued him about 100 yards by the
blood and found dead; we surched the thicket in every
part but found no other, and therefore returned. this was a
young male and would weigh about 400 lbs. the water of the
Missouri here is in most places about 10 feet deep. after our
return, in moving some of the baggage we caught a large rat.
(Copy for Dr. Barton) it was somewhat larger than the common
European rat, of lighter colour; the body and outer part of
the legs and head of a light lead colour, the belly and inner
side of the legs white as were also the feet and years. the toes
were longer and the ears much larger than the common rat;
the ears uncovered with hair. the eyes were black and prominent
the whiskers very long and full. the tail was reather
longer than the body and covered with fine fur or poil of the
same length and colour of the back. the fur was very silkey
close and short. I have frequently seen the nests of these rats
in clifts of rocks and hollow trees but never before saw one of
them.[8] they feed very much on the fruit and seed of the
prickly pear; or at least I have seen large quantities of the
hulls of that fruit lying about their holes and in their nests.

July 2nd. 1805. Observed Equal altitudes of ☉ with Sextant

         

	h m s
A.M.	8. 7. 22	P.M.	lost by clouds	Altd. at time of observation 52°. 5′. 30″
			h m s
	". 8. 55		6. 18. 4.
	" 10. 33.		" 19. 4.

h m s

Chronometer too [blank space in MS.] on Mean Time [blank space
in MS.]

[Clark, first draft:]

July 2nd. Tuesday 1805

Some rain at day light this morning. dispatched the party
for the remaining baggage left at the 6 mile Stake, they returned
in the evening and we crossed to a large Island nearly opposit
to us to kill bear which has been Seen frequently in the Island,
we killed one bear & returned at Sun set.

The Roreing of the falls for maney miles above us

[Clark:]

July 2nd. Tuesday 1805

Some rain at day light this morning after which a fair morning,
dispatched the men for the Kegs &c. left at the Six mile
Stake, others to get timber for the boat &c. Musquetors verry
troublesom to day, day worm, after the return of the men
with the articles left at the 6 mile stake Capt Lewis myself
& 12 men crossed to an Island on which we saw a bear the
evening before, & several had been seen by the party at this
place, we killed one of the bear and returned. The river at
this place is [blank space in MS.] yards wide and about 10
feet water cought a rat in our stores, which had done some
mischief, this rat was about the size of a common large rat,
larger ears, long whiskers & toes, with a tail long & hairey
like a ground Squirel, verry fine fur and lighter than the
common rat. Wind to day as usial from the S W. and hard
all the after part of the day. those winds are also ice cool and
generally verry hard.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday July 3rd. 1805.

This morning early we employed all hands; some were
making tar or attempting to make it, others wer attatching the
skins on the boat, other[s] cuting and fiting the bark for lining
puting in the woodworke &c some hunters were sent out to
kill buffaloe in order to make pemecon to take with us and
also for their skins which we now wa[n]t to cover our baggage
in the boat and canoes when we depart from hence. the
Indians have informed us that we should shortly leave the
buffaloe country after passing the falls; this I much regret for
I know when we leave the buffaloe that we shal[l] sometimes
be under the necessity of fasting occasionally. and at all
events the white puddings will be irretrievably lost and Sharbono
out of imployment. our tar-kiln which ought to have
began to run this morning has yealded no tar as yet and I am
much affraid will not yeald any, if so I fear the whole opperation
of my boat will be useless. I fear I have committed
another blunder also in sewing the skins with a nedle which
has sharp edges these have cut the skin and as it drys I discover
that the throng dose not fill the holes as I expected tho'
I made them sew with a large throng for that purpose. at 10
OCk A. M. we had a slight shower which scarcely wet the
grass. One buffaloe only and 2 antelopes killed today six
beaver and 2 otter have been killed within the last three days.
The current of the river looks so gentle and inviting that the
men all seem anxious to be moving upwards as well as ourselves.
we have got the boat prety well forward today and
think we shall be able to complete her tomorrow except paying
her, to do which will require some little time to make her first
perfectly dry. she has assumed her shape and looks extreemly
well. She will be very light, more so than any vessel of her
size that I ever saw.

[Clark, first draft:]

July 3rd.. Wednesday 1805

all of party employed in Sowing the Skins to the boat, burning
Tare, preparing timber, hunting buffalow for their meat &

Skins, drying & repacking the Stores, Goods &c. &c. at 1
oClock began to rain. in the evening the hunters killed two
antilopes & a Buffalow.

[Clark:]

July 3rd.. Wednesday 1805

A fine morning wind from the S W all the party employed
some about the boat, attaching the skins & sowing
them to the sections, others prepareing timber, some burning
tar of the drift pine, some airring and repacking the stores &
Goods, & others hunting for Meet to make pemitigon & for
the use of their skins to cover the canoes & boat. a small
shower at 1 oClock which did scercely wet the grass. one
buffalow and two antilopes killed this evening. Six beaver &
2 orters has been killed at this camp within a fiew days. We
discover no fish above the falls as yet. the only timber in
this part of the countrey is willow, a fiew cotton trees which is
neither large nor tall, Box alder and red wood (Bois roche arrow
wood) The water tolerably clear and soft in the river, current
jentle and bottoms riseing from the water; no appearance of
the river riseing more than a few feet above the falls, as high
up as we have yet explored but few trees on the Std Side
the grass is high and fine near the river. the winds has
blown for several days from the S.W. I think it possible that
those almost perpetial S W. winds, proceed from the agency
of the Snowey Mountains and the wide leavel and untimbered
plains which streach themselves along their borders for an
emence distance, that the air comeing in contact with the snow
is suddenly chilled and condensed, thus becomeing heavyer
than the air beneath in the plains it glides down the sides of
those mountains and decends to the plains, where by the constant
action of the sun on the face of the untimbered country
there is a partial vacuom formed for it's reception I have
observed that the winds from this quarter is always the coaldest
and most violent which we experience, yet I am far from giveing
full credit to this hypotheses on this subject; if I find
however on the opposit side of these mountains that the winds
take a contrary direction I shall then have full faith. (The

winds take a contrary derection in the morning or from the
mountains on the west side)[9]

[Lewis:]

Thursday July 4th. 1805.

Yesterday we permitted Sergt. Gass McNeal and several
others who had not yet seen the falls to visit them. no appearance
of tar yet and I am now confident that we shall not
be able to obtain any; a serious misfortune. I employed a
number of hands on the boat today and by 4 P.M. in the
evening completed her except the most difficult part of the
work that of making her seams secure. I had her turned up
and some small fires kindled underneath to dry her. Capt. C.
completed a draught of the river from Fort Mandan to this
place which we intend depositing at this place in order to
guard against accedents. not having seen the Snake Indians
or knowing in fact whether to calculate on their friendship or
hostility or friendship we have conceived our party sufficiently
small and therefore have concluded not to dispatch a canoe
with a part of our men to St. Louis as we had intended early
in the spring. we fear also that such a measure might possibly
discourage those who would in such case remain, and might
possibly hazzard the fate of the expedition. we have never
once hinted to any one of the party that we had such a scheme
in contemplation, and all appear perfectly to have made up
their minds to suceed in the expedition or purish in the attempt.
we all beleive that we are now about to enter on the most
perilous and difficult part of our voyage, yet I see no one
repining; all appear ready to me[e]t those difficulties which
await us with resolution and becoming fortitude. we had a
heavy dew this morning. the clouds near these mountains
rise suddonly and discharge their contents[10] partially on the
neighbouring plains; the same cloud will discharge hail alone
in one part hail and rain in another and rain only in a third

within the space of a few miles; and on the Mountains to the
S.E. of us sometimes snow. at present there is no snow on
those mountains; that which covered them when we first saw
them and which has fallen on them several times since has all
disappeared. the Mountains to the N.W. & W. of us are still
entirely covered are white and glitter with the reflection of the
sun. I do not beleive that the clouds which prevail at this season
of the year reach the summits of those lofty mountains; and
if they do the probability is that they deposit snow only for there
has been no perceptible deminution of the snow which they contain
since we first saw them. I have thought it probable that
these mountains might have derived their appellation of shining
Mountains, from their glittering appearance when the sun shines
in certain directions on the snow which covers them. since
our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly witnessed a nois
which proceeds from a direction a little to the N. of West as
loud and resembling precisely the discharge of a piece of ordinance
of 6 pounds at the distance of three miles. I was
informed of it by the men several times before I paid any
attention to it, thinking it was thunder most probably which
they had mistaken at length walking in the plains the other
day I heard this noise very disti[n]ctly, it was perfectly calm
clear and not a cloud to be seen, I halted and listened attentively
about an hour during which time I heard two other
discharges and t[o]ok the direction of the sound with my
pocket compass. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I could
find from whence it issued. I have thou[gh]t it probable
that it might be caused by runing water in some of the caverns
of those immence mountains, on the principal of the blowing
caverns; but in such case the sounds would be periodical &
regular, which is not the case with this, being sometimes heard
once only and at other times, six or seven discharges in quick
succession. it is heard also at different seasons of the day and
night. I am at a loss to account for this phenomenon. our
work being at an end this evening, we gave the men a drink
of Sperits, it being the last of our stock, and some of them
appeared a little sensible of it's effects the fiddle was plyed
and they danced very merrily untill 9 in the evening when a

The Handsom Falls of the Missouri River,
sketch-map by Clark.

heavy shower of rain put an end to that part of the amusement
tho' they continued their mirth with songs and festive jokes and
were extreemly merry untill late at night. we had a very
comfortable dinner, of bacon, beans, suit dumplings & buffaloe
beaf &c. in short we had no just cause to covet the sumptuous
feasts of our countrymen on this day. one Elk and a beaver
were all that was killed by the hunters today; the buffaloe
seem to have withdrawn themselves from this neighbourhood;
the men inform us that they are still abundant about the falls.

[Clark:]

July the 4th.. Thursday 1805

A fine morning, a heavy dew last night; all hands employed
in Completeing the leather boat, gave the Party a dram which
made Several verry lively, a black Cloud came up from the
S.W, and rained a fiew drops I employ my Self drawing a
Copy of the river to be left at this place for fear of Some accident
in advance, I have left buried below the falls a Map of
the Countrey below Fort Mandan with Sundery private papers.
The party amused themselves danceing untill late when a
shower of rain broke up the amusement, all lively and Chearfull,
one Elk and a beaver kill'd to day. Our Tar kill like
to turn out nothing from the following cause. [Blank space
in MS.]

The Climate about the falls of Missouri appears to be Singular
Cloudy every day (since our arrival near them) which
rise from defferent directions and discharge themselves partially
in the plains & mountains, in Some places rain others rain &
hail, hail alone, and on the mountains in Some parts Snow. a
rumbling like Cannon at a great distance is heard to the west
of us; the Cause we can't account [for].[11]

[Lewis:]

Friday July 5th. 1805.

This morning I had the boat removed to an open situation,
scaffold[ed] her off the ground, turned her keel to the sun and

kindled fires under her to dry her more expediciously. I then
set a couple of men to pounding of charcoal to form a composition
with some beeswax which we have and buffaloe tallow now
my only hope and resource for paying my boat; I sincerely
hope it may answer yet I fear it will not. the boat in every
other rispect completely answers my most sanguine expectation;
she is not yet dry and eight men can carry her with the
greatest ease; she is strong and will carry at least 8,000 lbs. with
her suit of hands; her form is as complete as I could wish it.
the stitches begin to gape very much since she has began to
dry; I am now convinced this would not have been the case
had the skins been sewed with a sharp point only and the
leather not cut by the edges of a sharp nedle. about 8 A.M.
a large herd of buffaloe came near our camp and Capt. Clark
with a party of the hunters indeavoured to get a shoot at them
but the wind proved unfavourable and they ran off; the hunters
pursued and killed three of them; we had most of the meat
brought in and set a party to drying it. their skins were also
brought in and streached to dry for the purpose of covering
the baggage. 2 Wolves and three Antelopes also killed today.
we permitted three other men to visit the falls today; these
were the last of the party who had not as yet indulged themselves
with this grand and interesting seen. the buffaloe again
appear in great numbers about our camp and seem to be moving
down the river. it is somewhat remarkable that altho' you
may see ten or a douzen herds of buffaloe distinctly scattered
and many miles distant yet if they are undisturbed by pursuit,
they will all be traveling in one direction. the men who were
permitted to visit the falls today returned in the evening and
reported that the buffaloe were very numerous in that quarter;
and as the country is more broken near the river in that quarter
we conclude to dispatch a couple of canoes tomorrow with some
hunters to kill as many as will answer our purposes.

The plains in this part of the country are not so fertile as
below the entrance of the Cockkle or missel shell river and
from thence down the Missouri (Qu.) there is also much more
stone on the sides of the hills and on the broken lands than
below.

[Clark:]

July 5th.. Friday 1805

A fine morning and but little wind, worm and Sultrey at 8
oClock. I saw a large gangue of Buffalow and prosued them
with Several men the wind was unfavourable and we could
not get near them, the party scattered & Killed 3 buffalow
and brought into [camp] their Skins and Some meat, killed
2 wolves & 3 antilopes for their Skins, Capt. Lewis much engaged
in completeing the Leather boat. Three men went to
See the Falls, Saw great numbers of Buffalow on both Sides of
the river. great numbers of young blackbirds

[Lewis:]

Saturday July 6th. 1805.

In the cou[r]se of last night had several showers of hail and
rain attended with thunder and lightning. about day a heavy
storm came on from the S.W. attended with hail rain and a
continued roar of thunder and some lightning. the hail was as
large as musket balls and covered the ground perfectly. we
hand [had] some of it collected which kept very well through
the day and served to cool our water. These showers and
gusts keep my boat wet in dispite of my exertions. she is not
yet ready for the grease and coal. after the hail and rain was
over this morning we dispatched 4 hunters and two canoes to
the head of the rappids as we had determined last evening.
the red and yellow courants are now ripe and abundant, they
are reather asced [acid] as yet. There is a remarkable small
fox which ascociate in large communities and burrow in the
praries something like the small wolf but we have not as yet
been able to obtain one of them;[12] they are extreemly watchfull
and take reffuge in their burrows which are very deep; we have
seen them no where except near these falls.

[Clark:]

July 6th.. Satturday 1805

a heavy wind from the SW and some rain about midnight
last [night], at day light this morning a verry black Cloud
from the S. W, with a Contin[u]ed rore of thunder & some

lightining and rained and hailed tremendiously for about 1/2 an
hour, the hail was the Size of a Musket ball and covered the
ground. this hail & rain was accompand. by a hard wind which
lasted for a fiew minits, Cloudy all the forepart of the day,
after Part clear. dispatched 4 men in 2 Canoes to the falls,
to kill Buffalow, for their Skins & Meat others employd
about the boat, I cought Some Small fish this evening

[Lewis:]

Sunday July 7th. 1805.

The weather warm and cloudy therefore unfavourable for
my operations; I keep small fires under the boat; the blowing
flies are innumerable about it; the moisture retained by
the bark prevents it from drying as fast as it otherwise would.
we dispatched two other hunters to kill Elk or buffaloe for
their skins to cover our baggage. we have no tents; the men
are therefore obliged to have recourse to the sails for shelter
from the weather and we have not more skins than are sufficient
to cover our baggage when stoed away in bulk on land.
many of the men are engaged in dressing leather to cloath
themselves. their leather cloathes soon become rotton as they
are much exposed to the water and frequently wet. Capt.
Clarks black man York is very unwell today and he gave him
a doze of tartar emettic which operated very well and he was
much better in the evening. this is a discription of medecine
that I never have recourse to in my practice except in cases
of the intermittent fever. this evening the hunters returned
with the canoes and brought thre[e] buffaloe skins only and
two Antelope 4 deer and three wolf skins; they reported
that the buffaloe had gone further down the river. the two
hunters whom we sent out from hence returned also without
having killed anything except one Elk. I set one of the party
at work to make me some sacks of the wolf skins, to transport
my Instruments when occasion requirs their being carried any
distance by land. we had a light shower of rain about 4 P.M.
attended with some thunder and lightning. one beaver caught
this morning. the musquetoes are excessively troublesome to
us. I have prepared my composition which I should have
put on this evening but the rain prevented me.

[Clark:]

July 7th. Sunday 1805

A Warm day wind from the S.W Cloudy as usial, the
four men hunters did not return last night. dispatched 2 men
to kill Elk for the use of their Skin for the boat. my man
York sick; I give him a dost of Tarter. Some rain in the
after part of the day in the evining the hunters returned with
three buffalow Skins two goat Skins, four Deer Skins, two
deer, & 3 wolve Skins, to be used in Covering the boat Canoes
& to make mockersons, one Elk also killed to day

[Lewis:]

Monday July 8th. 1805.

Capt. Clark Determined to make a second effort to replace
the notes which he had made with rispect to the river and
falls accordingly he set out after an early breakfast and took
with him the greater part of the men with a view also to kill
buffaloe should there be any in that quarter. after geting
some distance in the plains he divided the party and sent
them in different directions and himself and two others struck
the Missouri at the entrance of medicine river and continued
down it to the great Cataract, from whence he returned through
the plains to camp where he arrived late in the evening. the
hunters also returned having killed 3 buffaloe 2 Antelopes and
a deer. he informed me that the immence herds of buffaloe
which we had seen for some time past in this neighbourhood
have almost entirely disappeared and he beleives are gone
down the river.

The day being warm and fair about 12 OCk. the boat was
sufficiently dry to receive a coat of the composition which I
accordingly applyed. this adds very much to her appearance
whether it will be effectual or not. it gives her hull the appearance
of being formed of one solid piece. after the first
coat had cooled I gave her a second which I think has made
it sufficiently thick.[13]

The mountains which ly before us from the South, to the
N.W. still continue covered with snow. one hunter also

passed the river to hunt this morning in the evening he returned
having killed a Buck and a male Antelope. The party
who were down with Capt. Clark also killed a small fox which
they brought with them. it was a female appeared to give
suck, otherwise it is so much like the comm[on] small fox of
this country commonly called the kit fox that I should have
taken it for a young one of that species; however on closer
examination it did apear to differ somewhat; it's colour was
of a lighter brown, it's years proportionably larger, and the
tale not so large or the hair not so long which formed it.
they are very delicately formed, exceedingly fleet, and not as
large as the common domestic cat. their tallons appear longer
than any species of fox I ever saw and seem therefore prepared
more amply by nature for the purpose of burrowing. ther is
sufficient difference for discrimination between it and the kit
fox, and to satisfy me perfectly that it is a distinct species.
the men also brought me a living ground squirrel which is
something larger than those of the U' States or those of that
kind which are also common here. this is a much ha[n]dsomer
anamal. like the other it's principal colour is a redish
brown but is marked longitudinally with a much greater
number of black or dark bro[w]n stripes; the spaces between
which is marked by ranges of pure white circular spots, about
the size of a brister blue shot. these colours imbrace the head
neck back and sides; the tail is flat, or the long hair projecting
horizontally from two sides of it only gives it that appearance.
the belly and breast are of much lighter brown or nearly white.[14]
this is an inhabitant of the open plain altogether, wher it burrows
and resides; nor is it like the other found among clifts
of rocks or in the woodlands. their burrows sometimes like
those of the mole run horizontally near the surface of the
ground for a considerable distance, but those in which they
reside or take refuge strike much deeper in the earth. slight
rain this afternoon. musquetoes troublesome as usual.

[Clark:]

July 8th.. Monday 1805

A worm morning flying Clouds I deturmin [to] take the
width of the river at the falls & the Medison river and to take
the greater part of the men which Can be Speared to kill
Buffalow for their Skins as well as meat, devided the party &
Sent them in different directions to hunt & proceeded my Self
to the mouth of Medison river measured it and found it to be
137 yards wide, in the narrowest part of the Missouri imediately
above Medison river the Missouri is 300 yards wide,
below and a little above the falls 1440 yards wide with the
direction of the upper great fall 580 yards wide, at the great
Spring 270 yards wide, at the handsom falls of 47 ft. 8 In.
the river is 473 yards wide, at the lower great falls the river is
confined within 280 yards, below the falls the water occupies 93
yards only. after takeing the wedth of the river at those Sundery
placies I returned thro' the plains in a direct line to camp.[15]
Some rain this evening after a verry hot day. the Mountains
which are in view to the South & NW. are Covered with
Snow. those nearer us and form a 3/4 circle around us is not
covered with Snow at this time. The hunters killed 3 buffalow,
two antelopes, & a Deer to day. the emence herds of
buffalow which was near us a fiew days ago, has proceeded on
down the river, we can See but a fiew Bulls in the plains

[Lewis:]

Tuesday July 9th. 1805.

The morning was fair and ple[s]ant. the Islands seem
crouded with blackbirds; the young brude is now completely
feathered and flying in common with the others. we corked
the canoes and put them in the water and also launched the
boat; she lay like a perfect cork on the water. five men would
carry her with the greatest ease. I now directed seats to be
fixed in her and oars to be fitted. the men loaded the canoes
in readiness to depart. just at this moment a violent wind
commenced and blew so hard that we were obliged to unload
the canoes again; a part of the baggage in several of them got

wet before it could be taken out. the wind continued violent
untill late in the evening, by which time we discovered that a
greater part of the composition had seperated from the skins
and left the seams of the boat exposed to the water and she
leaked in such manner that she would not answer. I need not
add that this circumstance mortifyed me not a little; and to
prevent her leaking without pi[t]ch was impossible with us, and
to obtain this article was equally impossible, therefore the evil
was irraparable I now found that the section formed of the
buffaloe hides on which some hair had been left, answered
much the best purpose; this leaked but little and the parts
which were well covered with hair about 1/8th. of an inch in
length retained the composition perfectly and remained sound
and dry. from these circumstances I am preswaided, that had
I formed her with buffaloe skins singed not quite as close as I
had done those I employed, that she would have answered even
with this composition. but to make any further experiments in
our present situation seemed to me madness; the buffaloe had
principally d[e]serted us, and the season was now advancing
fast. I therefore relinquished all further hope of my favorite
boat and ordered her to be sunk in the water, that the skins
might become soft in order the better to take her in peices tomorrow
and deposited the iron fraim at this place as it could
probably be of no further service to us. had I only singed my
Elk skins in stead of shaving them I beleive the composition
would have remained and the boat have answered; at least untill
we could have reached the pine country which must be in
advance of us from the pine which is brought down by the
water and which is probably at no great distance where we
might have supplyed ourselves with the necessary pi[t]ch or
gum. but it was now too late to introduce a remidy and I bid
adieu to my boat, and her expected services. The next difficulty
which presented itself was how we should convey the
stores and baggage which we had purposed carrying in the
boat. both Capt. Clark and myself recollected having heard
the hunters (Capt. Clark had previousley sent them in quest of
timber for the purpose) mention that the bottoms of the river
some few miles above us were much better timbered than below

The Great Fall of the Missouri River,
sketch-map by Clark.

and that some of the trees were large. the idea therefore suggested
itself of building two other canoes sufficiently large to
carry the surplus baggage. on enquiry of the hunters it
seemed to be the general opinion that trees sufficiently large
for this purpose might be obtained in a bottom on the opposite
side about 8 miles distant by land and reather more than
double that distance by water; accordingly Capt. Clark determined
to set out early in the morning with ten of the best
workmen and proceede by land to that place while the others
would in the mean time be employed by myself in taking the
Boat in peices and depositing her, toge[the]r with the articles
which we had previously determined to deposit at this place,
and also in tra[n]sporting all the baggage up the river to that
point in the six small canoes. this plan being settled between
us orders were accordingly given to the party, and the ten men
who were to accompany Capt. Clark (had) ground and prepared
their axes and adds this evening in order to prepare for an
early departure in the morning. we have on this as well as on
many former occasions found a small grindstone which I
brought with me from Harper's ferry extreemly convenient to
us. if we find trees at the place mentioned sufficiently large
for our purposes it will be extreemly fortunate; for we have
not seen one for many miles below the entrance of musselshell
River to this place, which would have answered.

At our camp near the White bear Islands. July 3rd. 1805.

Observed Equal altitudes of the ☉ with Sextant.

       

	h m s		h m s
A.M.	8. 16. 22.	P.M.	6. 6. 48.	Altitude at the time of observation 54°. 49′. 45″.
	". 17. 45.		" 3. 55.
	". 19. 17.		" 5. 30.

     

	h m s
Chronometer too slow on Mean Time	[blank space in MS.]
Observed Magnetic Azimuth of the ☉.	July 9th.. 1805.

 

Azimuth by Circumferenter

time by the Chronometer

Altd. of ☉s. U.L. by Sextant.

     

		h m s
N. 73°. E.	A.M.	8. 40. 7	62°. 38′. 15″.	Variation of the Magnetic nedle.
N. 74°. E.		8. 44. 47.	63°. 10. 00

Equal Altitudes of the ☉ with Sextant.

           

	h m s
A.M.	8. 48. 15.	P. M. lost by the interferce. of Clouds	Altitude at the time of observation 65°. 22′. 15″.
	". 49. 48.
	". 51. 25.
	Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉'s. L. L. with octant back Obsn. 55°. 4′—″.
	Latitude deduced from this observation N. 47°. 3′. 56″. 1/10

[Clark:]

July 9th.. Tuesday 1805

a clear worm morning wind from the SW. Lanced [launched]
the Leather boat, and found that it leaked a little; corked
Lanced & loaded the Canoes, burried our truck wheels, &
made a Carsh [cache] for a Skin & a fiew papers I intend to
leave here

on trial found the leather boat would not answer without
the addition of Tar which we had none of, haveing Substituted
Cole & Tallow in its place to Stop the Seams &c. which would
not answer as it Seperated from the Skins when exposed to
the water and left the Skins naked & Seams exposed to the
water; this falur of our favourate boat was a great disapointment
to us, we haveing more baggage than our Canoes would
Carry. Concluded to build Canoes for to Carry them; no
timber near our Camp. I deturmined to proceed on up the
river to a bottom in which our hunters reported was large
Trees &c.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday July 10th. 1805.

Capt. Clark set out with his party early this morning and
passed over to the opposite side. after which I dispatched
Sergt. Ordway with 4 Canoes and 8 men to take up a load of
baggage as far as Capt. Clark's camp and return for the
remainder of our plunder. with six others I now set to work
on my boat, which had been previously drawn out of the
water before the men departed, and in two hours had her
fraim in readiness to be deposited. had a cash dug and
deposited the Fraim of the boat, some papers and a few other

trivial articles of but little importance. the wind blew very
hard the greater part of the day. I also had the truck wheels
buried in the pit which had been made to hold the tar. having
nothing further to do I amused myself in fishing and
caught a few small fish; they were of the species of white
chub mentioned below the falls, tho' they are small and few in
number. I had thought on my first arrival here that there
were no fish in this part of the river. Capt. Clark proceeded
up the river 8 miles by land (distance by water 23 1/4) and found
2 trees of Cottonwood and cut them down; one proved to be
hollow and split in falling at the upper part and was somewhat
windshaken at bottom; the other proved to be much wind-shaken.
he surched the bottom for better but could not find
any he therefore determined to make canoes of those which he
had fallen; and to contract their length in such manner as to
clear the craks and the worst of the winds[ha]ken parts making
up the deficiency by allowing them to be as wide as the
trees would permit. they were much at a loss for wood to
make axhandles. the Chokecherry is the best we can procure
for this purpose and of that wood they made and broke thir
13 handles in the course of this part of a day. had the eyes
of our axes been round they would have answered this country
much better. the musquetoes were very troublesome to them
as well as ourselves today. Sergt. Ordway proceeded up the
river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that he
was obliged to ly by untill late in the evening when he again
set out with the canoes and arrived within 3 miles of Capt.
Clark's Camp where he halted for the night. about five miles
above whitebear camp there are two Islands in the river (Qu)
covered with Cottonwood boxalder and some sweet willow also
the undergrowth like that of the islands at this place.

Observed Equal Altitudes of the ☉. with Sextant;

       

	h m s		h m s
A.M.	8. 16. 9.	P.M.	6. 2. 20.	Altitude given at the times of observation 54°. 49′. 45.″
	". 17. 45.		". 3. 55.
	". 19. 17.		". 5. 30.

   

	h m s
Chronometer too slow on Mean Time	[blank space in MS.]

     

Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉'s. L.L. with
	55°. 27.′–″.
Octant by the back observation

Latitude deduced from this observation N. 47°. 3.′ 10.″

Observed time and distance of D's. western limb from a Antares;
* West; with Sextant.

           

	Time.	Distance		Time	Distance
	h m s			h m s
P.M.	10. 47. 21.	34°. 12′. 45.″	P.M.	10. 57. 7.	34°. 16.' 15."
	" 50. 8.	". 14. .		". 59. 31.	". 17.—.
	" 52. 38.	". 14. 30.		". 2. 11.	". 18. 30.
	". 54. 49.	". 15. 30		". 4. 24.	". 19. 15.

Observed time and distance of D's. Western limb from Pegassi;
* East, with Sextant.

           

	Time	Distance		Time	Distance
	h m s			h m s
P.M.	11. 47. 35.	73°. 11.' 15".	Astro.	12. 11. 46.	71°. 3.' 45".
	" 51. 39.	". 15.—.		". 14. 25.	". 5. 30.
	". 54. 8.	". 13. 45.		This I think is most probably Pegassi; but the star appeared very small.
	from the distance of this star I am doubtfull that it is not Pegassi therefore observed another.

[Clark:]

July 10th. Wednesday 1805

a fair windey day wind hard the most of the day from the
S.W. rained moderately all last night (by Showers) we dispatched
Serjt. Ordway with 4 Canoes loaded & 8 men by water
to assend as high as I should have found timber for Canoes &
formed a Camp. I Set out with Serjt. Pryor four Choppers
two Involeds & one man to hunt, Crossed to the Std. Side
and proceeded on up the river 8 miles by land (distance by
water 23 1/4 ms.) and found two Trees which I thought would
make Canoes, had them fallen, one of them proved to be
hollow & Split at one End & verry much wind Shaken at
the other, the other much win[d]-shaken, we serched the
bottoms for better trees and made a trial of Several which
proved to be more indifferent. I deturmined to make Canoes

out of the two first trees we had fallen, to Contract their
length so as to clear the the hollow & winshakes, & ad to
the width as much as the tree would allow. The Musquitors
emencely noumerous & troublesom, Killed two deer & a
goat The Canoes did not arrive as I expected, owing to the
hard wind which blew a head in maney places. we ar much at
a loss for wood to make ax helthes [helves], 13 hath been
made & broken in this piece of a day by the four Choppers,
no other wood but Cotton Box elder Choke Cherry and red
arrow wood we Substitute the Cherry in place of Hickory
for ax helthes ram rods, &c. &c.

[Lewis:]

Thursday July 11th. 1805

We had now nothing to do but wait for the canoes; as they
had not returned I sent out some of the small party with me
to hunt; in the evening they returned with a good quantity of
the flesh of a fat buffaloe which they had killed. the canoes
not arrived this evening. I saw several very large grey Eagles
today they are half as large again as the common bald Eagle
of this country. I do not think bald Eagle here qu[i]te so
large as those of the U'States; the grey Eagle is infinitely
larger and is no doubt a distinct species.[16] this evening a little
before the sun set I heared two other discharges of this unaccoun[t]able
artillery of the Rocky Mountains proceeding
from the same quarter that I had before heard it. I now
recollected the Minnetares making mention of the nois which
they had frequently heard in the Rocky Mountains like
thunder; and which they said the mountains made; but I
paid no attention to the information supposing it either false
or the fantom of a supersticious immagination. I have also
been informed by the engages that the Panis and Ricaras give
the same account of the Black mountains which lye West. of
them. this phenomenon the philosophy of the engages readily
accounts for; they state it to be the bursting of the rich mines
of silver which these mountains contain.

This morning Capt. Clark dispatched Bratton to meet the
canoes which were detained by the wind to get a couple of
axes. he obtained the axes and returned in about two hours.
this man has been unable to work for several days in consequence
of a whitlow on one of his fingers; a complaint which
has been very common among the men. one of the canoes
arrived at Capt. Clark's camp about 10. A.M. this he had
unloaded and se[n]t a few miles up the river for a buffaloe
which had been killed, the party sent killed another in thir
rout and brought in the flesh and skins of both. they were in
good order; his hunters had also killed two deer and an
Antelope yesterday. the three other canoes did not arrive
untill late in the evening in consequence of the wind and the
fear of weting their loads which consisted of articles much
more liable to be injured by moisture than those which composed
the load of that which arrived in the morning. Capt. C.
had the canoes unloaded and ordered them to float down in
the course of the night to my camp, but the wind proved
so high after night that they were obliged to put too about
8 miles above and remain untill morning. Capt. C. kept the
party with him busily engaged at the canoes. his hunters
killed and brought in three very fat deer this evening.

[Clark:]

July 11th. Thursday 1805

a fair windey morning wind S.W. I dispatch W Bratton
(who cannot work he haveing a tumer riseing on his finger) to
Meat the Canoes & bring from them two axes, which is necessary
for the work at the perogues or canoes, and is indespenceable
he returned in about two hours & informed that one
Canoe was within three Miles, about 1 oClock the Canoe
which Bratton left arrived. haveing killed a Buffalow on the
river above our camp, at which place the bend of the river
below & that above is about 1 mile apart, I despatched Serjt.
Pryor with 3 men in the canoe to get the meat they killed
another buffalow near the one killed and brought the meat of
both down. at Sunset the 3 remaining canoes arrived unloaded
& returned imeadiately with orders to flote down to

Camp at the portage to night for the purpose of takeing up
the remaining baggage. Musquetors verry troublesom, and in
addition to their torments we have a Small Knat which is as
disagreeable, our hunter killed 3 Deer to day one of them
verry fat. all the men with me engaged about the Canoes
hunting &c. &c.

[Lewis:]

Friday July 12th. 1805.

The canoes not having arrived and the wind still high I
dispatched Sergt. Gass with three men to join Capt. Clark and
assist in completing the canoes retaining only a few who in
addition to those in the canoes that I expect every moment,
will be sufficient to man the six canoes and take up all the
baggage we have here at one load. I feel excessively anxious
to be moving on. the canoes were detained by the wind untill
2 P.M. when they set out and arrived at this place so late that
I thought it best to detain them untill morning. Bratton
came down today for a cople of axes which I sent by him; he
returned immediately. Sergt. Gass and party joined Capt.
Clark at 10 A.M. Capt. C. kept all the men with him busily
engaged some in drying meat, others in hunting, and as
ma[n]y as could be employed about the canoes. Segt. Pryor
got his sholder dislocated yesterday, it was replaced immediately
and is likely to do him but little injury; it is painfull
to him today. the hunters with Capt. C. killed three deer and
two otter today. the otter are now plenty since the water has
become sufficiently clear for them to take fish. the blue crested
fisher, or as they are sometimes called the King fisher, is an inhabitant
of this part of the country; this bird is very rare on the
Missouri; I have not seen more than three or four of those
birds during my voyage from the entrance of the Missouri to
the mouth of Maria's river and those few were reather the
inhabitants of streams of clerer water which discharged themselves
into the Missouri than of that river, as they were seen
about the entrances of such streams. Musquetoes extreemly
troublesome to me today nor is a large black knat less troublesome
which dose not sting, but attacks the eye in swarms and

compells us to brush them off or have our eyes filled with
them.[17] I made the men dry the ballance of the freshe meet
which we had abo[u]t the camp, amounting to about 200 lbs.

Observed Equal Altitudes of the ☉ with Sextant.

     

A.M.	10. 8. 31.	P.M.	4. 8. 6.	altitude given at the time of observation 92°. 13.′ 15.
	". 10. 11		". 9. 47.
	". 12. 52.		". 11. 27.

 

h m s

Chronometer too [blank space in MS.] on mean Mean T [blank
space in MS.]

[Clark:]

July 12th. Friday 1805

a fair windey morning wind from the S.W. all hands at
work at Day light Some at the Canoes, & others drying meat
for our voyage Despatched W Brattin to the lower Camp
for two axes which are necessary to carry on our work at this
place &c. Serjt. Pryors Sholder was put out of place yesterday
Carrying Meat and is painfull to day. Wind hard all day
dispatched 2 hunters, they returnd in the evening with three
Deer & 2 orters [otters]. four men arrived from the lower
Camp by land to assist at this place in building the Canoes &c.
Musquetors & knats verry troublesom all day. a fiew wild
pigions about our camp.

[Lewis:]

Saturday July 13th. 1805.

This morning being calm and Clear I had the remainder of
our baggage embarked in the six small canoes and man[n]ed
them with two men each. I now bid a cheerfull adue to my
camp and passed over to the opposite shore. Baptiest La
Page one of the men whom I had reserved to man the canoes
being sick I sent Charbono in his stead by water and the sick
man and Indian woman accompanyed me by land. from the
head of the white bear Islands I passed in a S.W. direction
and struck the Missouri at 3 Miles and continued up it to
Capt. Clark's camp where I arrived about 9 A.M. and found

them busily engaged with their canoes Meat &c. in my way
I passed a very extraordinary Indian lodge, or at least the fraim
of one; it was formed of sixteen large cottonwood poles each
about fifty feet long and at their larger end which rested on the
ground as thick as a man's body; these were arranged in a
circular manner at bottom and equally distributed except the
omission of one on the East side which I suppose was the entrance
to the lodge; the upper part of the poles are united in
a common point above and secured with large wyths of willow
brush. in the center of this fabric there was the remains of a
large fire; and about the place the marks of about 80 leather
lodges. I knew not what was the intention or design of such
a lodge but certain I am that it was not designed for a dwelling
of any one family. it was 216 feet in circumpherence at the
base. it was most probably designed for some great feast, or
a council house or some great national concern. I never saw a
similar one nor do the nations lower down the Missouri construct
such.

The canoes and party with Sergt. Ordway p[r]oceeded up
the river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that
two of the canoes shiped a considerable quant[it]y of water
and they were compelled to put too take out the baggage to
dry and clense the canoes of the water. about 5 P.M. the
wi[n]d abated and they came on about 8 miles further and
encamped. I saw a number of turtledoves and some pigeons
today. of the latter I shot one; they are the same common
to the United States, or the wild pigeon as they are called.
nothing remarkable in the appearance of the country; the
timber entirely confined to the river and the country back on
either side as far as the eye can reach entirely desittute of trees
or brush. the timber is larger and more abundant in the
bottom in which we now are than I have seen it on the
Missouri for many hundred miles. the current of the river
is still extreemly gentle. The hunters killed three buffaloe
today which were in good order. the flesh was brought in
dryed the skins wer also streached for covering our baggage.
we eat an emensity of meat; it requires 4 deer, an Elk and a
deer, or one buffaloe, to supply us plentifully 24 hours. meat

now forms our food prinsipally as we reserve our flour parched
meal and corn as much as possible for the rocky mountains
which we are shortly to enter, and where from the indian account
game is not very abundant. I preserved specemines of
several small plants today which I have never before seen. The
Musquetoes and knats are more troublesome here if possible
than they were at the White bear Islands. I sent a man to
the canoes for my musquetoe bier which I had neglected to
bring with me; as it is impossible to sleep a moment without
being defended against the attacks of these most tormenting
of all insects; the man returned with it a little after dark.

[Clark:]

July 13th.. Satturday 1805

a fair Calm Morning, verry cool before day. we were visited
by a Buffalow Bull who Came within a fiew Steps of one of the
Canoes as the men were at work. Capt. Lewis one man &c.
arrived over Land at 9 oClock, the wind rose and blew hard
from the S.E. the greater part of the day both Canoes finished
all to Corking & fixing ores &c. &c.

The Hunters killed 3 Buffalow the most of all the meat I
had dried for to make Pemitigon.[18] The Musquetors & knats
verry troublesom all day & night

[Lewis:]

Sunday July 14th. 1805

This morning was calm fair and warm; the Musquetoes of
course troublesome. all hands that could work were employed
about the canoes. which completed and launched this evening.
the one was 25 feet and the other 33 feet in length
and about 3 feet wide. we have now the seats and oars to
make and fit &c. I walked out today and ascended the bluffs
which are high rockey and steep; I continued my rout about
31/2 when I gained a conspicuous eminence about 2 Mls. distant
from the river a little below the entrance of Fort Mountain
Creek. from this place I had a commanding view of the
country and took the bearings of the following places. (viz)

The Upper Falls of the Missouri River,
sketch-map by Clark.

To the point at which the Missouri first enters the Rocky Mountains
S. 28o. W. 25. Miles

To the termineation of the 1st. Chain of Rocky Mountains northwardly,
being that through which the Missouri first passes N. 73o. W. 80.

To the extremity or tirmineation of 2nd Chain of the Rocky Mountains
N. 65. W. 150

To the most distant point of a third and continued chain of the same
Mts. N. 50o. W. 200.

The direction of the 1st. Chain of Rocky Mounts. from S. 20. E. to
N. 20. W.

The direction of the 2nd. Do. from S 45 E. to N. 45. W.

☞ the Southern extremities of these ranges not visible and believe
they continue probably to Mexico

To Fort mountain S. 75o. W. 8.

The country in most parts very level and in others swelling
with gentle rises and decents, or in other wirds what I have
heretofore designated a wavy country destitute of timber except
along the water-courses. On my return to camp found
Sergt. Ordway had arrived with all the canoes about noon and
had unloaded them every preperation except the entire completion
of the oars poles &c. is made for our departure tomorrow.
the grass and weeds in this bottom are about 2 feet
high; which is a much greater hight than we have seen them
elsewhere this season. here I found the sand rush and nittles
in small quantities. the grass in the plains is not more than
3 inches high. grasshoppers innumerable in the plains and
the small birds before noticed together with the brown Curloo
still continue nomerous in every part of the plains. had a
slight shower at 4 P.M. this evening.

[Clark:]

July 14th Sunday 1805

a fine morning calm and worm Musquetors & Knats verry
troublesom. The Canoes arrive at 12 oClock & unloade to
Dry &c. finished & Lanced [launched] the 2 Canoes, Some
rain this afternoon. all prepareing to Set out on tomorrow.