University of Virginia Library

Chapter IX

FROM THE MUSSELSHELL TO MARIA'S RIVER

IX. Lewis's Journal, May 23—June 7, 1805
Clark's Journal, May 23—June 7

[Lewis:]

Thursday May 23rd. 1805.

SET out early this morning, the frost was severe last night,
the ice appeared along the edge of the water, water also
freized on the oars. at the distance of one mile passed
the entrance of a creek 15 yds. wide on Stard. side, this we called
Teapot Creek, it affords no water at it's mouth but has runing
water at some small distance above, this I beleive to be the
case with many of those creeks which we have passed since
we entered this hilley country, the water is absorbed by the
earth near the river and of course appear dry; they afford
but little water at any rate, and that is so strongly impregnated
with these salts that it is unfit for uce; all the wild anamals
appear fond of this water; I have tryed it by way of experiment
& find it moderately pergative, but painfull to the intestens
in it's opperation. this creek runs directly towards some
low mountains which lye N.W. of it and appear to be about
30 Mls. distant, perhaps it heads in them. This range of
mountains appear to be about 70 Miles long runing from
E. to W. having their Eastern extremity about 30 Mls. distant
in a northwardly direction from (Tea)pot Island.[1] Also
passed two small creeks on Lard. and two others on Stard. all
inconsiderable and dry at their entrances. just above the
entrance of Teapot Creek on the stard. there is a large assemblage
of the burrows of the Burrowing Squirrel they generally
seelect a south or a south Easterly exposure for their
residence, and never visit the brooks or river for water; I

am astonished how this anamal exists as it dose without water,
particularly in a country like this where there is scarcely any
rain during 3/4 of the year and more rarely any due [dew];
yet we have sometimes found their villages at the distance
of five or six miles from any water, and they are never found
out of the limits of the ground which their burrows occupy;
in the Autumn when the hard frosts commence they close
their burrows and do not venture out again untill spring,
indeed some of them appear to be yet in winter quarters.
passed 3 Islands the two first covered with tall cottonwood
timber and the last with willows only. river more rappid, &
the country much the same as yesterday. some spruce pine
of small size appears among the pitch pine, and reather more
rock than usual on the face of the hills. The musquetoes
troublesome this evening, a circumstance I did not expect
from the temperature of the morning. The Gees begin to
lose the feathers of their wings and are unable to fly. Capt
Clark walked on shore and killed 4 deer and an Elk. We
killed a large fat brown bear which took the water after being
wounded and was carried under some driftwood where he sunk
and we were unable to get him. Saw but few buffaloe today
but a great number of Elk, deer, some antelopes and 5 bear.
The wild rose (copy for Dr Barton) which is now in blume are
very abundant, they appear to differ but little from those
common to the Atlantic States, the leaves of the bushes and
the bush itself appear to be of somewhat smaller size.[2]

Courses and distances of May 23rd. 1805.

                                       

N. 55°. W.	To the entrance of a large creek at a bend, on the Stard. side, called Teapot Creek	1.
S. 70°. W.	To a point of woodland on the Lard. side opst. bluff	1 1/4
S. 50°. W.	To a point of woodland on Stard. side	1 1/4
S. 55°. W.	Along the stard. side opposite to a hill on which there is some pine	1 1/2
West.	To a tree in a bend on Stard. above a bluff	2.
S. 45°. W.	To the upper point of an Island in a bend on lard. side, opposite to the center of this Isld. a small Creek falls in on the Stard. side.	2
S. 75°. W.	to the main Stard. point, opposite to a bluff Lard., just above which a small creek falls in	1/2
S. 85°. W.	to the lower point of a timbered bottom, lying along a bluff in a bend on Stard. side	3
S. 10°. W.	to the upper point of the timber in a bend on the Lard. opposite to a bluff	1 1/2
N. 88°. W.	To a point of woodland Stard. opposite to a bluff, above which a creek falls in on Lard.	2.
N. 15°. W.	to a point of woodland Lard. opposite to a bluff.	1 1/4
West.	Along the Lard. point	1/4
S. 60°. W.	to a point of timbered land on Stard. side	1.
N. 65°, W.	to a point of timbered land passing a small Island in a deep bend to the N. a bluff on Stard.	2.
S. 65°. W.	to a point of woodland Stard. opposite to a bluff.	2.
N. 75°. W.	to the upper point of a bluff in a bend on Lard.	1/4
N. 30°. E.	to the upper point of a small Island in a deep bend to the North E.	1 1/2
N. 40°. W.	Along the Lard. shore to the point on Lard.	1 1/2
S. 45°. W.	to a point of wood in a bend on Lard. under a hill, opposite to which we encamped on the Stard. side	1 1/4
	Miles	27.[3]

[Clark:]

May 23rd. Thursday 1805

a severe frost last night, the Thrmott. stood at the freesing
point this morning i.e. 32 a 0. wind S W. the water freeses
on the oars Ice on the edge of the river. We set out at an
early hour and passed the mouth [of] a creek at 1 mile on the
Stard Side which heads in a mountain N W of its mouth 30
miles, the Countrey on each side is as passed yesterday,
passed 2 small creeks on the Stard & 2 on the Lard. Side to
day. a mountain which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long
bearing E. & W is about 25 miles distant from this river on
the Stard Side Notherley of Pot Island I walked on shore
and killed 4 deer & an Elk, & a beaver in the evening we
killed a large fat Bear, which we unfortunately lost in the river,

after being shot took the water & was carried under a drift
passed in course of this day three Islands, two of them covered
with tall timber & a 3rd. with willows

The after part of this day was worm & the Musquetors
troublesome. Saw but five Buffalow a number of Elk & Deer
& 5 bear & 2 antilopes to day. the river beginning to rise,
and current more rapid than yesterday, in maney places I
saw Spruce on the hills sides Stard. this evening

Course & Distance May 23rd.

                                         

	mile
N. 55°. W.	1	to the enterence of a creek in a bend to the Stard Side called Teapot C. 15 yds. wide
S. 70°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land on Lard. opsd. a bluff
S. 50°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land on Stard. Side
S. 55°. W.	1 1/2	allong the Stard Side a hill opposit on which there is pine
West	2	to a tree in a bend to the Stard. above a bluff
S. 45°. W	2	to the upper point of an Island in a bend to the Lard. Side opposit the center of the Island a small creek falls in on the Stard. Side
S. 75°. W.	1/2	to the main Std. point opposit to a bluff Lard. just above which a small creek falls in
S. 85°. W.	3	to the lower point of a timbered bottom allong a bluff in a bend on the Stard Side
S. 10°. W.	1 1/2	to the upper point of a timber in a bend on the Lard. opposit to a bluff
N. 88°. W.	2	to a point of wood land Stard. Side opsd. a bluff above which a creek falls in Lard.
N. 15°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood land Lard. opsd. a bluff
West	1/4	allong the Lard. point.
S 60°. W.	1	to a point of timbered land on the Stard Side
N. 65°. W.	2	to a pt. of timber Lard. passing a Small Island in a deep bend to the N. a bluff on Stard.
S. 65°. W.	2	to a pt. of wood land Stard. opsd. a bluff
N. 75°. W.	1/4	to the upper point of a bluff in a bind to the Larboard Side
N. 30°. E	1 1/2	to the upper point of a Small Island in a deep bend to the N.E.
N. 40°. W.	1 1/2	allong the Lard. Shore to the point L.S.
N. 45°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood in a bend on Lard. under a hill. opposit to which we encamped on the S.S.
	27

[Lewis:]

Friday May 24th. 1805.[4]

The water standing in the vessels freized during the night
1/8 of an inch thick, ice also appears along the verge of the
river. the folage of some of the cottonwood trees have been
entirely distroyed by the frost and are again puting forth other
buds. the high country in which we are at present and have
been passing for some days I take to be a continuation of what
the Indians as well as the French Engages call the Black hills.
This tract of country so called consists of a collection of high
broken and irregular hills and short chain of mountains sometimes
120 miles in width and again becomeing much narrower,
but always much higher than the country on either side; they
commence about the head of the Kanzas river and to the West
of that river near the Arkansas, from whence they take their
course a little to the W. of N. W. approaching the rockey
Mountains obliquely, passing the river platte above the forks
and intercepting the Yellowstone river near the bigbend and
passing the Missouri at this place and probably continuing to
swell the country as far North as the Saskashawan river. tho'
they are lower here than they are discribed to the Sth. and may
therefore probably terminate before they reach the Suskashawan.
the black hills in their course no[r]thwardly appear to
approach more nearly to the Rocky Mountains.

We set out at an early hour this morning and proceed on
principally by the chord untill about 9 A.M. when a fine
breeze sprung up from the S. E. and enabled us th[r]ough the
ballance of the day to employ our sails to advantage; we proceed
at a pretty good pace notwithstanding the courant of the
river was very strong. we passed two large and four small
Islands; also several streams on either side; the first of these
is a large Creek or small river which disenboged on the Stard.
side about 1 1/2 miles above our encampment of last evening, it
is 30 yards wide and contains some water. the bed is gravley
and intermixed with some stone, it takes its rise in the mountains
which are situated in a Northwardly direction from its

entrance, distant about 30 Miles. the air is so pure in this
open country that mountains and other elivated objects appear
much nearer than they really are; these mountains do not
appear to be further than 15 M. we sent a man up this creek
to explore the country he returned late in the evening and
informed that he had proceeded ten miles directly towards
these mountains and that he did not think himself by any
mean[s] half way these mountains are rockey and covered
with some scattering pine. This stream we call North Mountain
creek; the next stream in order is a creek which falls in
on Lard. 2 1/2 miles higher; this is 15 yds. wide no water; a large
village of the burrowing or barking squirrels on the Stard. side
opposite it's entrance, hence the name Little dog Ck. that being
the name by which the French Engages call this anamal. at
three miles and at 10 Ms. from hence still ascending 2 Small
creek[s] fall in on the Stard. side, no water. 51/2 miles higher a
small river falls in on Lard. side this we called South Mountain
creek as from it's direction it appeared to take it's rise in
a range of Mountains lying in a S. Westerly direction from it's
entrance distant 50 or 60 M.; this creek is 40 yards wide and
discharges a handsome stream of water. it's bed is rockey
with gravel and sand, the banks high and country broken it's
bottom narrow and no timber. The country high and broken,
a considerable portion of black rock and brown sandy rock
appear in the faces of the hills; the tops of the hills covered
with scattering pine spruce and dwarf cedar; the soil poor and
sterile, sandy near the tops of the hills, the whole producing
but little grass; the narrow bottoms of the Missouri producing
little else but Hysop or southern wood and the pulpy leafed
thorn. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening and killed a
buffaloe cow, we left 2 Canoes and six men to dress the Cow
and bring on the meat, they did not overtake us this evening.
game is becoming more scarce, particularly beaver, of which
we have seen but few for several days the beaver appears to
keep pace with the timber as it declines in quantity they also
become more scarce.

Courses and distance May 24th. 1805.

                                   

S. 60° W.	1 1/2	Mls. To the entrance of N. Mountain Creek in a bend Sd. side.
S. 20° W.	1	To a point of wood Stard. point opposite to a bluff
S. 75° W.	1/4.	Along the Stard. point opposite to a bluff
N. 65° W.	1 1/4.	Along the Stard. side opposite an Island near the Lard side under a bluff in a bend, a creek falls in above. this bluff opposite to a Village of burrowing Squirrels.
N. 45° W.	1/4.	To a point on the Lard. side, passing bad water.
N. 70° W.	2 3/4.	To a grove of trees at the entrance of a Creek in a bend on Stard. passing a stard. point at 1 1/2 miles.
S. 48° W.	1.	To a point of woodland Lard. side.
S. 50° W.	1 1/2.	To a point of woodland Stard. side, opposite to a low bluff and high piney hill.
West	2 1/2.	To the lower point of the timber in a bend on Lard. passing a Stard. point at 1 1/2 Mls. opposite the Lower point of a small Island.
N. 60° W.	2 1/4.	To the lower point of the timber in a Stard. bend, passing the Island at 1/4 of a Mile, a creek falls in on the Stard.—small and no water.
S. 50° W.	1 1/4	To a bluff in a Lard. bend passing a small Island
S. 80° W.	1 1/4	To a point of wood Stard. passed a bluff Lard.
West	3	To the point of a high bluff in a bend on Lard. just below which S. Mtn. Creek falls in on Lard.
N. 70° W.	1/2	To a Stard. point of wood.
N. 50° W.	1	To a point of woodland Stard. Side.
West	2	To some high timber on the Stard. side oppst. a bluff.
N. 70° W	2.	To a point of woodland Lard. the trees here have no leaves here we encamped for the night.
Miles	24 1/4

Point of Observation N. 23. Friday May 24th. 1805.

On the Stard. point mentioned in the sixth course of this day, observed
time and distance of ☉'s and D's nearest limbs ☉ East. with
Sextant.

                           

	Time	Distance
	h m s	o ′ ″
A.M.—	10 39 47	54 38—	by myself
	" 41 35	" 37 30
	" 49 23	" 35—
	" 53 55	" 34 45	by Capt. Clark
	" 55 23	" 32 15
	" 56 56.	" 31—
A.M.	10 59 35	54 30. 45
	11. 3. 55	". 28. 15	by Capt. Clark
	". 5. 4.	". 28.—
	". 8. 17	". 27. 15.
	" 10. 17.	". 26. 30.	By Myself
	" 11. 30	". 25. 45.

[Clark:]

May 24th Friday 1805

a cold night the water in the small vestles frosed 1/8 of an
inch thick, and the Thermometer stood this morning at the
freesing point. We set out at an early hour and proceeded
on, at 9 oClock we had a Breeze from the S E which continued
all day. this Breeze afforded us good sailing, the river rising
fast current verry rapid passed several small Islands, two
large & two small creeks. the 1st. of those creeks or small
rivers 1 1/2 m. above our camp is 30 yards wide and contains
water and appears to take its rise in the North Mountains
which is Situated in a northeley derection about 20 miles distant.
2 1/2 m. higher a creek falls in on the Lard. Side, opposit
a large village of Barking Squirels. 3 miles still higher a small
creek falls in on the Stard. 13 miles higher up a small river
falls in on the Lard Side which is 40 yards wide and has
running water. this stream appears to take its rise in the
South Mountains which is Situated in a Southerly derection
30 or 40 miles distant. I walked on the high countrey on the
Stard Side found it broken & Dry some pine, spruce &
Dwarf cedar on the hill sides, I sent one man 10 miles out
he reports a similarity of countrey back I killed a fat buffalow
a short distance below the place we dined 2 canoes & 6 men
we left to get the meat did not join us this evening. We
camped on the Lard point. the cotton wood in this point is
beginning to put out a second bud, the first being killed by
the frost

Course & Distance May 24th.

                                     

	miles
S. 60°. W.	1 1/2	to the mouth of N M. [North Mountain] River in a bend Stard Side
S. 20°. W.	1	to a point of wood Stard. Side opsd. a bluff. L.S.
S. 75°. W.	1/4	allong the Stard point opsd. a bluff L.S.
N 65°. W.	1 1/4	allong the Stard. Side opsd. an Island near the Lard Side under a bluff in a bend. a creek falls in Lard. opsd. a village of barking Squirels S.S.
N. 45°. W.	1/4	to a point on the Lard Side, passed bad water
N. 70°. W.	2 3/4	to a grove of trees at the mouth of a creek in a bend to the Stard. passed Sd pt. at 1 1/2 m.
S. 48°. W.	1	to a point of wood land Lard Side
S. 50°. W.	1 1/2	to a point of wood land Stard. Side opsd. to a low Bluff & high pine hill
West	2 1/2	to the lower point of the timber in a bend on Lard. passing a Stard point at 1 1/2 m. opsd. the lower point of a Small Isld.
N. 60°. W.	2 1/4	to the lower point of the timber in a Stard. bend, passing the Isld. at 1/4 of a m. a small creek falls in on the Stard Side
S. 50°. W.	1 1/4	to a bluff in a Lard. bend passing an Island
S. 80°. W.	1 1/4	to a point of wood Stard passd. a bluff Ld.
West	3	to the point of a high bluff in a bend on Lard. a large stream falls in just below on Lard Sd.
N. 70°. W.	1/2	to a Stard point of wood
N. 50°. W.	1	to a point of wood land Stard Side
West	2	to some high timber on the Std. Side opsd. a bluff
N. 70°. W.	2	to a point of wood, trees have no leaves on the Lard Side. where we camped
miles	24 1/4

[Lewis:]

Saturday May 25th. 1805.

The Two canoes which we left behind yesterday to bring on
the meat did not arrive this morning untill 8 A.M. at which
time we set out; the wind being against us we did not proceed
with so much ease or expedition as yesterday, we imployed
the toe line principally which the banks favored the
uce off; the courant [was] strong particularly arround the
points against which the courant happened to set, and at

the entrances of the little gullies from the hills, these rivulets
having brought down considerable quantities of stone and
deposited it at their entrances forming partial barriers to the
water of the river to the distance of 40 or 50 feet from the
shore, arround these the water run with great violence, and
compelled us in some instances to double our force in order to
get a perorogue or canoe by them. as we ascended the river
today I saw several gangs of the bighorned Anamals on the
face of the steep bluffs and clifts on the Stard. side and sent
drewyer to kill one which he accomplished; Capt. Clark and
Bratton who were on shore each killed one of these anamals
this evening. The head and horns of the male which Drewyer
killed weighed 27 lbs. it was somewhat larger than the male
of the common deer, the boddy reather thicker deeper and not
so long in proportion to it's hight as the common deer; the
head and horns are rema[r]kably large compared with the other
part of the anamal; the whole form is much more delicate than
that of the common goat, and there is a greater disparity in
the size of the male and female than between those of either
the deer or goat. the eye is large and prominant, the puple
of a deep sea green and small, the iris of a silvery colour much
like the common sheep; the bone above the eye is remarkably
promenant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip
are precisely in form like the sheep. there legs resemble the
sheep more than any other animal with which I am acquainted
tho' they are more delicately formed, like the sheep they
stand forward in the knee and the lower joint of the foreleg is
smallest where it joins the knee, the hoof is black & large in
proportion, is divided, very open and roundly pointed at the
toe, like the sheep, is much hollowed and sharp on the under
edge like the Scotch goat, has two small hoofs behind each
foot below the ankle as the goat sheep and deer have. the
belley, inerside of the legs, and the extremity of the rump and
butocks for about two inches arround the but of the tale, are
white, as is also the tale exce[p]t just at it's extremety on the
upper side which is of a dark brown. the tail is about three
inches in length covered with short hair, or at least not longer
than that of the boddy; the outher parts of the anamal are of
a duskey brown or reather a leadcoloured light brown; the
anamal is now sheding it's winter coat which is thick not quite
as long as that of the deer and appears to be intermixed with a
considerable quantity of a fine fur which lyes next to the skin
& conceald by the coarcer hear; the shape of the hair itself
is celindric as that of the antelope is but is smaller, shorter,
and not compressed or flattened as that of the deer's winter
coat is, I believe this anamal only sheds it's hair once a year.
it has eight fore teeth in the under jaw and no canine teeth.
The horns are la[r]gest at their base, and occupy the crown of
the head almost entirely. they are compressed, bent backwards
and lunated; the surface swelling into wavy rings which
incircleing the horn continue to succeed each other from the
base to the extremity and becoming less elivated and more
distant as they recede from the head. the horn for about
two thirds of it's length is filled with a porus bone which is
united with the frontal bone. I obtained the bones of the
upper part of the head of this animal at the big bone lick.[5]
the horns of the female are small, but are also compressed and
bent backwards and incircled with a succession of wavy rings.
the horn is of a light brown colour; when dressed it is almost
white extreemly transparent and very elastic. this horn is
used by the natives in constructing their bows; I have no
doubt but it would [make] eligant and usefull hair combs, and
might probably answer as many valuable purposes to civilized
man, as it dose to the savages, who form their water-cups,
spoons and platters of it. the females have already brought
forth their young, indeed from the size of the young I suppose
that they produce them early in March. they have from
one to two at a birth. they feed on grass but principally on
the arromatic herbs which grow on the clifts and inacessable
hights which they usually frequent. the places they ge[ne]rally
celect to lodg is the cranies or c[r]evices of the rocks in
the faces of inacessable precepices, where the wolf nor bear
can reach them and where indeed man himself would in many
instancies find a similar deficiency; yet these anamals bound
from rock to rock and stand apparently in the most careless
manner on the sides of precipices of many hundred feet. they
are very shye and are quick of both sent and sight.

At the distance of two 3/4 miles above our encampment of
last evening we passed a Creek 20 yard wide affording no runing
water, we also passed 7 Islands in the course of the day.
The Country on either hand is high broken and rockey; the
rock is either soft brown sand stone covered with a thin strata
of limestone, or a hard black rugged grannite, both usually in
horizontal stratas and the Sandy rock overlaying the other.
Salts and quarts still appear, some coal and pumice stone also
appear; the river bottoms are narrow and afford scarcely any
timber. the bars of the river are composed principally of
gravel, but little pine on the hills. We saw a Pole-cat this
evening it is the first we have seen for many days. buffaloe
are now scarce and I begin to fear our harvest of white puddings
are at an end.

Cou[r]ses and distances May 25th 1805.

                       

S. 50° W.	2 3/4	to the entrance of a creek 20 yds. wide in a bend on Lard. Side passing a small Island in a deep bend on Lard. Side.
N. 50°. W.	1 1/4	To the Stard. Side of tea Island, which is seperated from the Stard. shore by a narrow channel
N. 35°. W.	1/2	Along the Stard. side passing a sand Island
N. 15°. W.	2	To a point of woodland on the Lard. side passing the upper point of Tea Island.
N. 30°. W.	2.	to a point of woodland Stard. side, opposite to the lower point of an Island.
N. 25°. W.	1/4	to a bluff bank in a Stard. bend.
N. 65°. W.	3/4	to a bluff point on the Stard. opposite the upper point of the Island.
N. 60°. W.	4 1/2	to a clump of trees in a Stard. bend under a high bluff passing a Lard. point at 2 1/2 Mls. and a Small Island at 3 1/2 Mls.
N. 80°. W.	1	to the point of a high plain on the Stard. side passing an Isld. near the Std. side 3/4 of a Ml. in length.
S. 80°. W.	2	to the lower point of an untimbered Island situated in the middle of the river, passg a Sd. Pt. at 1 1/2 Mls.
S. 60°. W.	1	to a pt. on the Lard. side, passing the head of the Ild. at 3/4 of a mile and incamped on the Lard. Side.
Miles	18

[Clark:]

May 25th.. Satturday 1805

The two canoes left for meat yesterday did not join us untill
8 oClock this morning at which time we set out, the morning
cool & pleasent wind a head all day from the S. W.
We pass a creek on the Lard. Side about 20 yards wide, which
does not run, we also passed 7 Islands, I walked on shore
and killed a female Ibi or big horn [ILLUSTRATION] animal in my
absence Drewyer & Bratten killed two others, this
animal is a species peculiar to this upper part of
the Missouri, the head and horns of the male which Drewyer
killed to day weighed 27 lbs. it was somewhat larger than
the mail of the Common Deer; the body reather thicker
deeper and not so long in proportion to it's hight as the
common Deer; the head and horns of the male are remarkably
large compared with the other parts of the animal; the
whole form is much more delicate than that of the common
goat, and there is a greater disparity in the size of the mail
and female than between those of either the deer or goat. the
eye is large and prominant, the puple of a deep sea green
and small, the iris of a silvery colour much like the common
Sheep; the bone above the Eye is remarkably prominant;
the head nostrils and division of the upper lip are precisely
in form like the sheep. their legs resemble the sheep more
than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho' they
are more delicately formed, like the sheep they stand foward
in the knee and the lower joint of the fore leg is smallest
where it joins the knee, the hoof is black and large in perpotion,
is divided, very open and roundly pointed at the toe;
like the sheep; is much hollowed and Sharp on the under
edge like the Scotch goat, has two small Hoofs behind each
foot below the ankle as the goat Sheep and Deer have. the
belley, iner side of the legs, and the extremity of the rump and
buttock's for about two inches 1/2 around the but of the tail,
are white, as is also the tail except just at its extremity on the
upper side which is of a dark brown. the tail is about 3
inches in length covered with short hair, or at least not longer
than that of the body; the outer part of the animal are of
a duskey brown or reather a lead coloured light brown; the

animal is now Sheding its winter coat which is thick not quite
as long as that of the Deer and appears to be inter mixt with
a considerable quantity of fine fur which lies next to the Skin
and concealed by the coarcer hair; the shape of the hair itself
is cylindric as that of the Antilope is, but is smaller, shorter
and not compressed or flattened as that of the deers winter
coat is. I believe this animal only sheds it's hair once a
year. it has Eight fore teeth in the under jaw and no canine
teeth. The Horns are large at their base, and occupy the
crown of the head almost entirely, they are compressed, bent
backwards and lunated; the surface swelling into wavey rings
which incircleing the horn continue to succeed each other from
the base to the extremity and becomeing less elivated and
more distant as they receed from the head. The horn for
about two thirds of its length is filled with a porus bone which
is united with the frontal bone (Capt Lewis obtained the bones
of the upper part of the head of this animal at the big Bone
Lick in the State of Kentucky which I saw and find to be the
same in every respect with those of the Missouri and the
Rockey Mountains) the horns of the female are small, but
are also compressed and bent backwards and incircled with
a succession of wavy rings. the horn is of a light brown
colour; when Dressed it is almost white extreamly transparent
and very elastic. this horn is used by the natives in constructing
their bows; I have no doubt of it's elegance and
usefullness in hair combs, and might probably answer as
maney valuable purpoces to civilized man, as it does to the
native indians, who form their water cups, spoons and platters
of it. the females have already brought forth their young,
indeed from the size of the young, I suppose that they produce
them early in March. they have from one to two at a
birth. they feed on grass, but principally on the arramatic
herbs which grow on the clifts and inaxcessable hights which
they frequent most commonly, and the places they generally
collect to lodge is the cranies or c[r]evices of the rocks in the
face of inaccessable precepices, where the wolf nor Bear can
reach them, and where indeed man himself would in maney
instances find a similar deficiency; yet those animals bound
from rock to rock and stand apparently in the most careless
manner on the Side of precipices of maney hundred feet.
they are very shy and quick of both sent and sight. The
flesh of this animal is dark and I think inferior to the flesh
of the common Deer, and superior to the antilope of the
Missouri and the Columbian Plains. In my walk of this day
I saw mountts on either side of the river at no great distance,
those mountains appeared to be detached, and not ranges as
laid down by the Minetarrees, I also think I saw a range
of high Mount.s at a great distance to the S S W. but am not
certain as the horozon was not clear enough to view it with
certainty. The country on either side is high broken and
rockey a dark brown hard rugid stone intermixed with a soft
white sand stone. the hills contain coal or cabonated wood as
below and some scattering pumestone. the sides of the river
is bordered with coars gravel, which in maney places have
washed either together or down small brooks and forms bars
at some distance in the water, around which the current passes
with great valocity. the bottoms between hills and river are
narrow and contain scercely any timber. The appearence of
salts, and bitumun still continue. we saw a polecat to day
being the first which we have seen for some time past. The
Air of this quarter is pure and helthy. the water of the
Missouri will tasted not quite so muddy as it is below, not
withstanding the last rains has raised the river a little it is less
muddy than it was before the rain.

Course and distance of May 25th. 1805

                       

S. 50°. W.	2 3/4	Miles to the enterance of a creek in a bend to the Lard Side 20 yards wide passing a small island in a deep bend to Lard.
N. 50°. W.	1 1/4	to the Stard Side of tea island which is seperated from the main Stard. Shore by a narrow channel.
N. 35°. W.	1/2	on the Stard Side passing a Sand Island
N. 15°. W.	2	to a point of wood land on the Lard. Side passing the upper point of tea Island
N. 30°. W.	2	to a point of wood land on the Stard. Side opposit to the lower point of an island
N. 25°. W.	1/4	to a bluff bank in the Stard Bend
N. 65°. W.	3/4	to a Bluff point on the Stard. opposit to the upper point of an island.
N. 60°. W.	4 1/2	to a clump of trees in a Stard. bend under a high bluff, passing a Lard point at 2 1/2 miles. a small island at 3 1/2 miles.
N. 80°. W.	1 mile	to a high plain on the Stard. Side passing an island near the Stard. Side 3/4 of a M in length
S. 80°. W.	2	to the lower point of an open island situated in the middle of the river, passing a Lard pt. at 1 1/2 miles on this course.
S. 60°. W.	1	to a point on the lard Side passing the head of the Island at 3/4 of a mile and Encamped on the Larboard Side.
	18

[Lewis:]

Sunday May 26th. 1805.

Set out at an early hour and proceeded principally by the
toe line, using the oars mearly to pass the river in order to
take advantage of the shores. scarcely any bottoms to the
river; the hills high and juting in on both sides, to the river
in many places. the stone tumbleing from these clifts and
brought down by the rivulets as mentioned yesterday became
more troublesome today. the black rock has given place to
a very soft sandstone which appears to be washed away fast by
the river, above this and towards the summits of the hills a hard
freestone of a brownish yellow colour shews itself in several
stratas of unequal thicknesses frequently overlain or incrusted
by a very thin strata of limestone which appears to be formed
of concreted shells. Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning
and ascended to the summit of the river hills he informed
me on his return that he had seen mountains on both sides of
the river runing nearly parrallel with it and at no great distance;
also an irregular range of mountains on Lard. about 50
Mls. distant; the extremities of which boar W. and N.W. from
his station. he also saw in the course of his walk, some Elk
several herds of the Big horn, and the large hare; the latter
is common to every part of this open country. scarcely any
timber to be seen except the few scattering pine and spruce
which crown the high hills, or in some instances grow along
their sides. In the after part of the day I also walked out and

ascended the river hills which I found sufficiently fortiegueing.
on arriving to the summit [of] one of the highest points in the
neighbourhood I thought myself well repaid for my labour;
as from this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first
time, I could only discover a few of the most elivated points
above the horizon, the most remarkable of which by my pocket
compass I found bore N. 65.o W. being a little to the N. of the
N.W. extremity of the range of broken mountains seen this
morning by Capt. C. these points of the Rocky Mountains
were covered with snow and the sun shone on it in such manner
as to give me the most plain and satisfactory view. while
I viewed these mountains I felt a secret pleasure in finding myself
so near the head of the heretofore conceived boundless
Missouri; but when I reflected on the difficulties which this
snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way to the
Pacific, and the sufferings and hardships of myself and party in
thim, it in some measure counterballanced the joy I had felt
in the first moments in which I gazed on them; but as I have
always held it a crime to anticipate evils I will believe it a good
comfortable road untill I am compelled to believe differently
saw a few Elk & bighorns at a distance on my return to the
river I passed a creek about 20 yds. wide near it's entrance it
had a handsome little stream of runing water; in this creek I
saw several softshelled Turtles which were the first that have
been seen this season; this I believe proceeded reather from
the season than from their non existence in the portion of the
river from the Mandans hither. on the Stard. shore I killed a
fat buffaloe which was very acceptable to us at this moment;
the party came up to me late in the evening and encamped for
the night on the Lard. side; it was after Dark before we finished
butchering the buffaloe, and on my return to camp I trod
within [a] few inches of a rattle snake but being in motion I
passed before he could probably put himself in a striking attitude
and fortunately escaped his bite, I struck about with my
espontoon being directed in some measure by his nois untill I
killed him. Our hunters had killed two of the Bighorned
Anamals since I had left them. we also passed another creek
a few miles from Turtle Creek on the Stard. 30 Yds. in width
which also had runing water bed rockey. (we called it Windsor
Cr.) late this evening we passed a very bad rappid which
reached quite across the river, (water deep channel narrow gravel
&c on each side); the party had considerable difficulty in ascending
it altho' they doubled their crews and used both the rope
and the pole. while they were passing this rappid a female
Elk and it's fawn swam down through the waves which ran
very high, hence the name of Elk rappids which they instantly
gave this place, these are the most considerable rappids which
we have yet seen on the missouri and in short the only place
where there has appeared to be a suddon decent.[6] opposite to
these rappids there is a high bluff and a little above on Lard. a
small cottonwood bottom in which we found sufficient timber
for our fires and encampment. here I rejoined the party after
dark. The appearances of coal in the face of the bluffs, also
of birnt hills, pumice stone salts and quarts continue as yesterday.
This is truly a desert barren country and I feel myself
still more convinced of it's being a continuation of the black
hills. we have continued every day to pass more or less old
stick lodges[7] of the Indians in the timbered points, there are
two even in this little bottom where we lye.

Courses and distances of May 26th. 1805.

                                           

S. 45°. W.	1.	to the point of a plain on the Stard. side opposite to a bluff on Lard. side.
N. 70°. W.	1/4	Along the Stard. point opposite to a bluff.
N. 45°. W.	1/4	Along the Stard. point opposite to a bluff.
N. 10°. W.	1/4	Along the Std. do do do do
N. 70°. E.	1/4	Along the Stard. point opposite to a high hill
N. 35°. E.	2	to a few trees on a Lard. point.
N. 10°. W.	3/4	to a point in a bend on Stard. side.
N. 75°. W.	1/2	to a point of timber on the Stard. side.
N. 66°. W.	1.	to a point of timber on the Lard. side.
N. 18°. W.	1.	to a gravley point on the Stard. side
N. 12°. E.	1.	to the entrance of a creek [Windsor's] 30 Yds. wide on Stard. side
West	3/4.	to some trees on a Lard. point.
S. 80. W.	1 1/2	to the upper point of some timber in a bend on Lard. side.
N. 80. W.	1/2	to an open point on the Lard. side.
West	2.	to the entrance of a creek [Turtle] in a Stard. bend, no timber on either side of the river, pine scattered on the hills.
S. 24. W.	2	to a Clift in abend on Lard. side
West	2.	to a point on the Lard. side; no timber
S. 60°. W.	1/2	to a bluff point Lard. opposite to the upper point of a small sand Island.
S. 45°. W.	4.	to the point of a small plain Lard. side, passing high bluffs on either hand.
S. 70° W.	1.	to the point of a high bluff in a Lard. bend, at which place is a very considerable riffle which we call the Elk rappids.
N. 80°. W.	1/4.	to the upper point of a small grove of timber on Lard. side where we encamped for the night.
M.ls	22 3/4

[Clark:]

May 26th. Sunday 1805

We set out early and proceeded as yesterday wind from
the S.W. the river enclosed with very high hills on either
side. I took one man and walked out this morning, and
ascended the high countrey to view the mountains which I
thought I saw yesterday, from the first sumit of the hill I
could plainly see the Mountains on either side which I saw
yesterday and at no great distance from me, those on the
Stard. Side is an errigular range, the two extremeties of which
bore West and N. West from me. those Mountains on the
Lard. Side appeared to be several detached Knobs or Mountains
riseing from a level open countrey, at different distances from
me, from South West to South East, on one the most
S. Westerly of those Mountains there appeared to be snow.
I crossed a Deep holler and assended a part of the plain
elivated much higher than where I first viewed the above
Mountains; from this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains

for the first time with certainty, I could only discover a fiew
of the most elivated points above the horizon, the most remarkable
of which by my pocket compas I found bore S. 60
W. those points of the rocky Mountain were covered with
Snow and the Sun Shown on it in such a manner as to give me
a most plain and satisfactory view. whilst I viewed those
mountains I felt a secret pleasure in finding myself so near the
head of the heretofore conceived boundless Missouri; but
when I reflected on the difficulties which this snowey barrier
would most probably throw in my way to the Pacific Ocean,
and the sufferings and hardships of my self and party in them,
it in some measure counterballanced the joy I had felt in the
first moments in which I gazed on them; but as I have always
held it little Short of criminality to anticipate evils I will allow
it to be a good comfortable road untill I am compelled to
beleive otherwise. The high country in which we are at
present and have been passing for some days I take to be a
continuation of what the Indians as well as the French Engages
call the Black Hills. This tract of country so called consists
of a collection of high broken and irregular hills and short
chains of Mountains, sometimes 100 miles in width and again
becoming much narrower, but always much higher than the
country on either side; they commence about the head of the
Kanzas river and to the west of that river near the Arkansaw
river, from whence they take their cource a little to the west
of N. W. approaching the Rocky Mountains obliquely passing
the river Platte near the forks, and intersepting the River
Rochejhone near the big bend of that river, and passing the
Missouri at this place, and probably continueing to swell the
country as far North as the Saskashawon river, tho' they are
lower here than they are discribed to the South, and may
therefore termonate before they reach the Saskashawan. the
Black hills in their course northerly appear to approach more
nearly the Rocky Mountains. I saw a great number of white
brant, also the common brown brant, Geese of the common
size & kind and a small Species of geese, which differs considerably
from the common or Canadian Goose; their necks,
head and backs are considerably thicker, shorter and larger
than the other in propotion to its size they are also more
than a third smaller, and their note more like that of the brant
or young goose which has not perfectly acquired his note; in
all other respect they are the same in colour habits and the
number of feathers in the tail, they frequently also ascoiate
with the large Geese when in flocks, but never saw them pared
off with the larger or common goose. The white Brant
ascoiates in very large flocks, they do not appear to be mated
or pared off as if they intended to raise their young in this
quarter, I therefore doubt whether they reside here dureing
the summer for that purpose. this bird is larger than the
common brown brant or 2/3 of the common goose. it is not
so long by Six inches from point to point of the wings when
extended as the other; the back head and neck are also larger
and stronger; their beak, legs and feet are of a redish flesh
coloured white. the eye of a moderate size, the puple of a
deep sea green encercled with a ring of yellowish brown. it
has 16 feathers of equal length in the tail their note differs
but little from the common brant. they are of a pure white
except the large feathers of the 1st. and 2nd. joint of the wings
which are jut black.

The country which borders the river is high broken and
rocky, Generally imbeded with a soft sand stone. higher up
the hill the stone is of a brownish yellow hard and gritty
those stones wash down from the hills into the river and cause
the shore to be rocky &c. which we find troublesom to assend
there is scerce any bottom beteewn and the Hills & river and
but a fiew trees to be seen on either side except scattering pine
on the sides of the emence hills, we passed 2 creeks on the
Stard Side both of them had running water in one of those
Creek Capt Lewis tells me he saw [a] soft shell Turtle Capt.
Lewis in his walk killed a fat Buffalow which we were in want
of our hunters killed 2 Mountain rams or big horns in the
evening late we passed a rapid, which extended quite across the
river we assended it by the assistance of a cord & poles on
the Lard. Side the Cliffs jut over, the opposit side is a small
leavel bottom, we camped a little above in a small Grove of
Cotton trees on the Lard. Side in the rapid we saw a Dow

Elk & hir faun, which gave rise to the name of Elk & faun
Riffle. We had a few drops of rain at Dark. The Salts coal
& Burnt hills & Pumieston Still continue, game scerce. This
Countrey may with propriety I think be termed the Deserts
of America, as I do not conceive any part can ever be settled,
as it is deficent in water, Timber & too steep to be tilled. We
pass old Indian lodges in the woody points everry day & 2 at
our camp &c.

Course & Distance 26th. of May 1805

                                             

	mile
S. 45°. W.	1.	to the point of a plain on the Stard. side opposit to a Bluff. L.S.
N. 70°. W.	1/4	allong the Stard. point opsd. a Bluff
N. 45°. W.	1/4	allong the Stard. point opsd. a Bluff
N. 10°. W.	1/4	allong the Stard. point opsd. a Bluff
N. 20°. E.	1/4	allong the Stard Point opsd. a high hill
N. 35°. E.	2	to a fiew trees on a point to Lard. Side
N. 10°. W.	3/4	to a point in a bend to the Stard Side
N. 75°. W.	1/2	to a point of timber on the Stard.
N. 66°. W.	1	to a point of timber on the Lard Side
N. 18°. W.	1	to graveley point on the Stard. Side
N. 12°. E.	1	to the mouth of a creek Stard. Side Windsors Creek
West	3/4	to some trees on the Lard point
S 80°. W	1 1/2	to the upper point of some timber in a bend to the Lard. Side
N 80°. W	1/2	to a open point on the Lard Side
West	2	to the mouth of a creek in a bend to the Stard. Side no timber on either side of the river, pine scattered on the hills &c.
S. 24°. W.	2	to a clift in a bend to the Lard. Side
West	2	to a point on the Lard Side (no timber)
S. 60°. W.	1/2	to a Bluff point Lard. opposit the upper point of a small sand Island
S 45°. W.	4	to the point of a small plain Lard. passing a high bluff on either side
S. 70°. W.	1	to the point of a high bluff in Lard bend at which place is a verry considerable riffle which we call Elk & faun riffle
N. 80°. W.	1/4	to the upper part of the timber in a small grove on Lard where we encamped
miles	22 3/4

[Lewis:]

Monday May 27th. 1805.

The wind blew so hard this morning that we did not sent
[set] out untill 10 A.M. we employed the chord most of
the day; the river becomes more rappid and is intercepted by
shoals and a greater number of rocky points at the mouths of
the little gulies than we experienced yesterday. the bluffs are
very high steep rugged, containing considerable quantities of
stone and border the river closely on both sides; once perhaps
in the course of several miles there will be a few acres of tolerably
level land in which two or thre impoverished cottonwood
trees will be seen. great quantities of stone also lye in the
river and garnish it's borders, which appears to have tumbled
from the bluffs where the rains had washed away the sand and
clay in which they were imbeded. the bluffs are composed of
irregular tho' horizontal stratas of yellow and brown or black
clay, brown and yellowish white sand, of soft yellowish white
sandstone and a hard dark brown freestone, also of large round
kidney formed and irregular seperate masses of a hard black
Iron stone, which is imbeded in the Clay and sand. some
little pine spruce and dwarf cedar on the hills. some coal or
carbonated wood still makes it's appearance in these bluffs,
pumicestone and birnt hills it's concommutants also are seen.
the salts and quarts are seen but not in such abundance. the
country more broken and barren than yesterday if possible.
about midday it was very warm to this the high bluffs and
narrow channel of the river no doubt contributed greatly. we
passed a small untimbered Island this morning on the Lard.
side of the river just above our encampment of last evening.
saw a few small herds of the Bighorned anamals and two Elk
only, of the last we killed one. the river is generally about
200 Yds. wide, very rappid and has a perceptable fall or declination
through it's whole course.

This evening we encamped, for the benefit of wood, near two
dead toped cottonwood trees on the Lard. side; the dead limbs
which had fallen from these trees furnished us with a scanty supply
only, and more was not to be obtained in the neighbourhood.[8]

Courses and Distances May 27th 1805.

                 

West	1. 3/4	Along the Lard. shore to a point on the Lard. side no timber a bluff close on both sides.
S. 80°. W.	3 1/4	to a bluff point on the Stard. side, in a Stard. bend
S. 50°. W.	1.	to a Lard. point.
S. 8°. W.	1 1/2	to the point of a bluff Lard. in a Lard. bend; the river making a considerable bend to the S. E.
S. 60°. W.	1/2	to a point on the Lard. side.
S. 26°. W.	1 1/2	to a single cottonwood tree on the Lard. point.
S. 55°. W.	1.	to a bluff point on the lard. side.
S. 45°. W.	3 1/2	to a bluff on the Lard. side, passing a Lard. point at 1. M. & a Stard. point at 2 1/2 Mt we encamped on
Miles	14	Lard. side 1 1/2 Mt on this course.

Point of Observation No. 24.

On the Lard. shore one mile short of the extremity of the second
course of this day, observed Merdn.
Altd. of ☉s L. L. with Octant by the back Observat.a 57′ 27′.

Latitude deduced from this observation [blank space in MS.]

[Clark:]

May 27th.. Monday 1805.

The wind blew hard from the S. W. which detained us untill
about 10 oClock, at which time we set out and proceeded
on, passed a small nacked Island on the Lard Side imediately
above the timber in which we camped, The river is verry
shoaley and the bad places are verry numerous, i e at the
mouth of every Drean the rocks which is a hard dark gritey
stone is thrown out some distance in the river which cause a
considerable riffle on that side, the hills approach the river
verry close on either side, river narrow & no timber except
some scattering pine on the hills & hill sides, the salts,
coal, burnhills & Pumice Stone &c. continue, the hills are
Generally Bluffs of various coloured earth most commonly
black with different quallities stone intermixed some stratums
of soft sand stone, some hard, some a dark brown & yellow
hard grit, those stones are loosened by the earths washing from
them into the river and ultimately role down into the river,
which appears to be crowded with them. This day is verry

worm. we only saw a fiew small herds of the big horn animals
on the hills, and two Elk one of which we killed, we
camped at 2 dead top trees on the Lard Side. The river is
Genly. about 200 yards wide and current very swift to day and
has a verry perceptiable fall in all its course it rises a little

Course & Distance May 27th.

                   

	miles
West	1 3/4	allong the Lard Shore to a point on the Lard. Sd. (no timber) a Bluff opposit on both sides
S. 80°. W.	3 1/4	to a bluff point on the Stard. Side in a Stard. Bend.
S. 50°. W.	1	to a Larboard point.
S. 8°. W.	1 1/2	to the point of a Bluff on Lard. in a Lard Bend; the river makeing a considerable bend to the S.E.
S. 60°. W.	1/2	to a open point on the Lard. Side
S. 26°. W.	1 1/2	to a single cotton tree on Stard. point
S. 55°. W.	1	to a bluff point on the Lard. Side
S. 45°. W.	3 1/2	to a Bluff on the Lard. Side, passed a Lard. point at 1 miles, a Stard. point at 2 1/2 miles. we camped on Lard. Sd. 1 1/2 on this course
miles	14

[Lewis:]

Tuesday May 28th. 1805.

This morning we set forward at an early hour; the weather
dark and cloudy, the are [air] smokey, had a few drops of
rain; we employed the chord generally to which we also gave
the assistance of the pole at the riffles, and rocky points; these
are as numerous and many of them much worse than those we
passed yesterday; arround those points the water drives with
great force, and we are obliged in many insta[n]ces to steer
our vessels through the appertures formed by the points of
large sharp rocks which reach a few inches above the surface
of the water, here s[h]ould our chord give way the bough is
instantly drivin outwards by the stream and the vessel thrown
with her side on the rocks where she must inevitably overset
or perhaps be dashed to peices; our ropes are but slender,
all of them except one being made of Elk's skin and much
woarn, frequently wet and exposed to the heat of the weather
are weak and rotten; they have given way several times in the
course of the day but happily at such places that the vessel

had room to wheel free of the rocks and therefore escaped
injury; with every precaution we can take it is with much
labour and infinite risk that we are enabled to get around these
points. found a new indian lodge pole today which had been
brought down by the stream, it was woarn at one end as if
draged by dogs or horses;[9] a football also, and several other
articles were found, which have been recently brought down
by the courant; these are strong evedences of Indians being
on the river above us, and probably at no great distance; the
football is such as I have seen among the Minetaries and
therefore think it most probable that they are a band of the
Minetaries of Fort de Prarie.[10] the river country &c continued
much as yesterday until late in the evening when we
arrived at the entrance of a large Creek [which] discharges
itself on the Stard. side, is 35 Yds. wide and contains runing
water; this we called Thompson's C. (after one of the party)
here the hills recede from the river on both sides, the bottoms
extensive particularly on the Stard. side where the hills are
comparitively low and open into three large vallies which
extend for a considerable distance in a Northwardly direction;
here also the river spreads to more than 3 times it's former
width and is filled with a number of small and handsome
Islands covered with cottonwood some timber also in the
bottoms, the land again fertile. these appearances were quite
reviving after the drairy country through which we had been
passing. Capt. C. walked on shore in the early part of the
day and killed a big horned anamal; he saw a great number
of them as well as ourselves in the broken country. at
10 A. M. a few drops of rain again fell and were attended with
distant thunder which is the first we have heared since we left
the Mandans. This evening we encamped on Stard. opposite
to the entrance of a small [Bull] Creek.[11] I believe the bighorn
have their young at a very early season, say early in
March, for they appear now to be half grown. One of the
party saw a very large bear today but being some distance
from the river and no timber to conceal him he did not think
proper to fire on him.

Courses and distances of May 28th. 1805.

                           

South	1.	to a point on Stard. side.
S. 35°. W.	2.	to the point of a bluff on Stard. side.
S. 60°. W.	1.	to a point on the Stard. side.
N. 70°. W.	1.	to a point on the Lard. side
S. 65°. W.	2.	to a point on the Stard. side
N. 65°. W.	1.	to a solitary cottonwood tree on a Lard. point
West	1 1/2	to a do do do on a Stard. point
N. 82°. W.	1.	to a grove of cottonwood trees on a Lard. point
N. 76°. W.	2.	to a tree on a Lard. point.
S. 68°. W.	2	to a point on the Stard. side, just below the entrance of a large Creek, [Thompson's] here the hills recede from the river which also becomes much wider.
West	3 1/2	to the upper part of a timbered bottom in a bend on the Stard. side. passing two small Islnds. and the large creek mentioned in the last course
S. 20°. W.	2 1/2	to a bluff point in a bend on Lard. passing two small Islands.
N. 46°. W.	1.	to the upper part of the timber in a bottom on the Stard. side, at which place we encamped opposite to the entrance of a small Creek this creek we called Bull Creek
	21 1/2	Miles (last day add 1 1/2)

[Clark:]

May 28th. Tuesday 1805

a cloudy morning some fiew drops of rain and verry
smokey wind from the S.W. we set out at an early hour,
The shoaley places are verry numerous and some bad to get
around we have to make use of the cord & Poles, and our
tow ropes are all except one of Elkskin, & stretch and sometimes

brake which indanger the Perogues or canoe, as it
imedeately turns and if any rock should chance to be below,
the rapidity of the current would turn her over [if] she should
chance to strike the rock, we observe great caution at those
places.

I walked on shore found the countrey ruged and as described
yesterday, I saw great numbers of the Big horned animals,
one of which I killed their fauns are nearly half grown. one
of the Party saw a verry large bear, picked up on the shore
a pole which had been made use of by the nativs for lodge
poles, & haul'd by dogs it is new and is a certain sign of
the Indians being on the river above a foot ball and several
other articles are also found to substantiate this oppinion. at
1 oClock we had a few drops of rain and some thunder whic[h]
is the first thunder we have had since we set out from Fort
Mandan, at 10 miles the hills begin to widen & the river
spreds & is crouded with Islands the bottoms contain some
scattering cotton wood the Islands also contain timber. passed
a Creek of running water on the Stard. Side about 35 yards
wide and camped imedeately opposit to a small creek on the
Lard Side we call Bull Creek from the circumstance of a
Buffalow Bull swiming from the opposit side and coineing out
of the river imedeately across one of the Perogues without
sinking or injureing any thing in the Perogue, and passing
with great violence thro' our camp in the night makeing 3
angles without hurting a man, altho they lay in every direction,
and it was very dark.

The Creek below 35 yards wide I call Thompsons Creek
after a valuable member of our party. this creek contains a
Greater preportion of running water than common.

Course & Distance May 28th. 1805

                             

	miles
South	1	to a point on the Stard Side.
S. 35°. W.	2,	to the point of a Bluff on Stard. Side
S. 60°. W.	1	to a point on the Stard. Side
N. 70°. W.	1	to a point on the Lard Side
S. 65°. W.	2	to a point on the Stard. Side
N. 65°. W.	1	to a single cotton tree on Lard point
West	1 1/2	to a d° cotton tree on the Stard point
N. 82°. W.	1.	to a grove of cotton trees on Lard. point
N. 76°. W.	2	to a tree on Lard point
S. 68°. W.	2	to a point on the Stard Side, here the Hills separate & river widens
West	3 1/2	to the upper part of a timbered bottom in a bend to the Stard Side, passed two small Islands, & a large Creek Std. Side Thompsons creek
S. 20°. W.	2 1/2	to a Bluff point in a bend on Lard. passed two small Islands
N. 64°. W.	1	to the upper part of the timber in a bottom on the Stard Side at which place we camped. opsd. to a Creek L.S.
	21 1/2

[Lewis:]

Wednesday May 29th. 1805

Last night we were all allarmed by a large buffaloe Bull,
which swam over from the opposite shore and coming along
side of the white perogue, climbed over it to land, he then
allarmed ran up the bank in full speed directly towards the
fires, and was within 18 inches of the heads of some of the men
who lay sleeping before the centinel could allarm him or make
him change his course, still more alarmed, he now took his
direction immediately towards our lodge, passing between 4
fires and within a few inches of the heads of one range of the
men as they yet lay sleeping, when he came near the tent, my
dog saved us by causing him to change his course a second
time, which he did by turning a little to the right, and was
quickly out of sight, leaving us by this time all in an uproar
with our guns in o[u]r hands, enquiring of each other. the
ca[u]se of the alarm, which after a few moments was explained
by the centinel: we were happy to find no one hirt. The
next morning we found that the buffaloe in passing the perogue
had trodden on a rifle, which belonged to Capt. Clark's black
man, who had negligently left her in the perogue, the rifle
was much bent, he had also broken the spindle; pivit, and
shattered the stock of one of the blunderbushes on board, with
this damage I felt well content, happey indeed, that we had
sustaned no further injury, it appears that the white perogue,

which contains our most valuable stores is attended by some
evil gennii. This morning we set out at an early hour and proceded
as usual by the Chord. at the distance of 2 1/2 Miles passed
a handsome river which discharged itself on the Lard. side, I
walked on shore and acended this river about a mile and a half
in order to examine it. I found this river about 100 yds. wide
from bank to bank, the water occupying about 75 yards. the
bed was formed of gravel and mud with some sand; it appeared
to contain much more water as (than) the Muscle-Shell river,
was more rappid but equally navigable; there were no large
stone or rocks in it's bed to obstruct the navigation; the banks
were low yet appeared seldom to overflow; the water of this
River is clearer much than any we have met with great abundance
of the Argalia or Bighorned animals in the high country
through which this river passes. Cap. C. who assended this
R. much higher than I did has thought proper to call (called)
it Judieths River.[12] the bottoms of this stream as far as I could
see were wider and contained more timber than the Missouri;
here I saw some box alder intermixed with the Cottonwood
willow; rose bushes and honeysuckle with some red willow
constitute the undergrowth. on the Missouri just above the
entrance of the Big Horn (Judith) River I counted the remains
of the fires of 126 Indian lodges which appeared to be
of very recent date perhaps 12 or 15 days. Capt. Clark also
saw a large encamp[m]ent just above the entrance of this
river on the Stard. side of reather older date, probably they were
the same Indians. The Indian woman with us ex[a]mined
the mockersons which we found at these encampments and informed
us that they were not of her nation the Snake Indians,
but she beleived they were some of the Indians who inhabit
the country on this side of [the] Rocky Mountains and North
of the Missoury and I think it most probable that they were
the Minetaries of Fort de Prarie. At the distance of six 1/2
Ms. from our encampment of last night we passed a very bad
rappid to which we gave the name of the Ash rappid from a
few trees of that wood growing near them; this is the first
ash I have seen for a great distance. at this place the hills
again approach the river closely on both sides, and the same
seen which we had on the 27th. and 28th. in the morning again
presents itself, and the rocky points and riffles reather more
numerous and worse; there was but little timber; salts coal
&c still appear. today we passed on the Stard. side the remains
of a vast many mangled carcases of Buffalow which had been
driven over a precipice of 120 feet by the Indians and perished;
the water appeared to have washed away a part of this immence
pile of slaughter and still their remained the fragments of at
least a hundred carcases they created a most horrid stench.
in this manner the Indians of the Missouri distroy vast herds
of buffaloe at a stroke; for this purpose one of the most
active and fleet young men is scelected and disguised in a robe
of buffaloe skin, having also the skin of the buffaloe's head with
the years and horns fastened on his head in form of a cap, thus
caparisoned he places himself at a convenient distance between
a herd of buffaloe and a precipice proper for the purpose, which
happens in many places on this river for miles together; the
other indians now surround the herd on the back and flanks and
at a signal agreed on all shew themselves at the same time moving
forward towards the buffaloe; the disguised indian or decoy has
taken care to place himself sufficiently nigh the buffaloe to be
noticed by them when they take to flight and runing before
them they follow him in full speede to the precipice, the cattle
behind driving those in front over and seeing them go do not
look or hesitate about following untill the whole are precipitated
down the precepice forming one common mass of dead an[d]
mangled carcases: the decoy in the mean time has taken care
to secure himself in some cranney or crivice of the clift which
he had previously prepared for that purpose. the part of the
decoy I am informed is extreamly dangerous, if they are not
very fleet runers the buffaloe tread them under foot and crush
them to death, and sometimes drive them over the precipice
also, where they perish in common with the buffaloe. we saw
a great many wolves in the neighbourhood of these mangled
carcases they were fat and extreemly gentle, Capt. C. who was
on shore killed one of them with his espontoon. just above
this place we came too for dinner opposite the entrance of a
bold runing river 40 Y ds.wide which falls in on Lard. side. this
stream we called Slaughter river.[13] it's bottoms are but narrow
and contain scarcely any timber. our situation was a narrow
bottom on the Stard. possesing some cottonwood. soon after
we landed it began to blow & rain, and as there was no appearance
of even wood enough to make our fires for some distance
above we determined to remain here untill the next morning,
and accordingly fixed our camp and gave each man a small
dram. notwithstanding the allowance of sperits we issued did
not exceed 1/2 [jill] p. man several of them were considerably
effected by it; such is the effects of abstaining for some time
from the uce of sperituous liquors; they were all very merry.
The hunters killed an Elk this evening, and Capt. C. killed two
beaver.

Courses and distances of May 29th. 1805.

                             

S. 65°. W.	2 1/2	To a small willow Island, close under a Stard. point, opposite the entrance of big born (Judith) river on Lard. passing an Island and 2 Sand bars.
S. 80°. W.	1.	to the upper part of some scattering timber at the entrance of a small creek on the Stard. above a large old Indian incampment.
S. 50°. W.	2.	to a tree in a Stard. bend, opposite to a Lard. point of high land, some timber on Stard. side.
South	1.	to an Ash tree on a Stard. point, at a rappid [Ash Rap], a high hill on the Lard. side.
S. 18°. W.	2 1/2	to the upper part of some scattering trees in a bend on the Lard. side.
S. 75°. W.	2.	to a few trees on a Stard. point, passing a bluff on each side of the river.
N. 70°. W.	1.	to a point of wood on the Lard. side.
N. 80°. W.	1/4	On the Lard. side opposite to a bluff.
S. 70°. W.	1.	to an open point on the Stard. side.
West	1.	to a few trees on a Lard. point
S. 72°. W.	1 1/4.	to a few trees on a Stard. point passing a riffle.
S. 85°. W.	1 1/2	to a bluff point on the Stard. side, opposite to the entrance of a small river [Slaughter] on Lard. side
West	1/2	Along the Stard. bluff.
N. 85°. W.	1/4.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side where we encamped for the night.—
Miles	17. 3/4

[Clark:]

May 29th, Wednesday 1805

In the last night we were alarmed by a Buffalow which swam
from the opposit shore landed opposit the Perogue in which
Capt Lewis & my self were in he crossed the perogue, and
went with great force up to the fire where several men were
sleeping and was [within] 18 inches of their heads, when one
man sitting up allarmed him and he turned his course along
the range of men as they lay, passing between 4 fires and within
a fiew Inches of some of the mens heads as they lay imediately
in a direction to our lodge about which several men were lying.
our Dog flew out & he changed his course & passed without
doeing more damage than bend a rifle & brakeing hir stock
and injureying one of the blunder busts in the perogue as he
passed through. We set out this morning at the usial hour &
proceeded on at 2 1/2 miles passed the mouth of a river [blank
space in MS.] yards wide, discharging a great quantity of water,
and containing more wood in its bottoms than the Missouri.
this river Capt Lewis walked up for a short distance & he saw
an old encampment of Indians (I also saw large encampment
on the Stard. Side at the mouth of a small creek of about 100
Lodges which appeared to be 5 or 6 weeks past, the Indian
woman examined the mockersons &c. and told us they were the
Indians which resided below the rocky mountains & to the
North of this river. that her nation make their mockersons
differently at 6 1/2 miles passed a considerable rapid at which
place the hills approach near the river on both sides, leaveing
a narrow bottom on the Stard. Side, (ash rapid) and continue
close all day but little timber, I walked on the bank in the
evening and saw the remains of a number of buffalow, which
had been drove down a clift of rocks I think from appearances
that upwards of 100 of those animals must have perished
here. Great numbers of wolves were about this place & verry

jentle I killed one of them with my spear. The hills above
ash rapid contain more rock and coal, and the more rapid
points. we came too for Dinner opposit the enterence of a
small river which falls in on the Lard Side and is about [blank
space in MS.] yards wide, has a bold running stream, soon
after we came too it began to rain & blow hard, and as we were
in a good harbor & small point of woods on the Stard Side,
and no timber for some distance above, induced us to conclude
to stay all night. we gave the men a dram, altho verry small
it was suffient to effect several men. one of our hunters
killed an elk this evening. I killed 2 beaver on the side of
the bank. a table spoon full of water exposed to the air in a
Saucer would avaporate in 36 hours when the mercury did not
stand higher than the temperate point in the heat of the day.

Course and distance May 29th

                               

	miles
S. 65°. W.	2 1/2	to a small willow Island close under the Stard. point opposit the enterence of a large river on Lard. Side Big horn river 100 yds wide water 45 yds passed an Island & 2 sand bars or Isds.
S 80°. W.	1	to the upper part of a scattering timber at the mouth of a small creek on the Stard. Side, above a large Indn. incampment
S. 50°. W.	2	to a tree in the Stard. bend opposit the Lard point of high land some timber on S.S.
South	1	to a Ash tree on the Stard point, at a rapid a high hill on the Lard Side
S. 18°. W.	2 1/2	to the upper [end] of some scattering trees in a bend to the Lard Side
S 75°. W.	2	to a fiew trees on a Stard point a bluff each side
N. 70°. W.	1	to a point of wood on the Lard Side
N. 80°. S.	1/4	on the Lard Side opposit to a bluff
S. 70°. W.	1	to an open point on the Stard. Side
West	1	to a fiew trees on the Lard. point
S. 72°. W.	1 1/4	to a fiew trees on the Stard. point (pass a riffle
S. 85°. W	1 1/2	to a Bluff point on the Stard. opposit to the mouth of a small river on the L.S.
West	1/2	allong the Stard. Bluff
N. 85°. W.	1/4	to a point of wood land on Stard. Side where we encamped for the night
miles	17 3/4

[Lewis:]

Thursday May 30th. 1805.

The rain which commenced last evening continued with little
intermission untill 11. this morning when we set out; the high
wind which accompanied the rain rendered it impracticable to
procede earlyer. more rain has now fallen than we have experienced
since the 15th. of September last. many circumstances
indicate our near approach to a country whos climate differs
considerably from that in which we have been for many
months. the air of the open country is asstonishingly dry as
well as pure. I found by several experiments that a table
spoon full of water exposed to the air in a saucer would avaporate
in 36 hours when the murcury did not stand higher than
the temperate point at the greatest heat of the day; my inkstand
so frequently becoming dry put me on this experiment. I
also observed the well seasoned case of my sextant shrunk
considerably and the joints opened. The water of the river
still continues to become clearer and notwithstanding the rain
which has fallen it is still much clearer than it was a few days
past. this day we proceded with more labour and difficulty
than we have yet experienced; in addition to the imbarrasments
of the rappid courant, riffles, & rockey point[s] which
were as bad if not worse than yesterday, the banks and sides
of the bluff were more steep than usual and were now rendered
so slippery by the late rain that the men could scarcely walk.
the chord is our only dependance for the courant is too rappid
to be resisted with the oar and the river too deep in most
places for the pole. the earth and stone also falling from these
immence high bluffs render it dangerous to pass under them.
the wind was also hard and against us. our chords broke several
times today but happily without injury to the vessels. we
had slight showers of rain through the course of the day, the
air was could and rendered more disagreeable by the rain. one
of the party ascended the river hills and reported on his return
that there was snow intermixed with the rain which fell on the
hights; he also informed us that the country was level a little
back from the river on both sides. there is now no timber on the
hills, an only a few scattering cottonwood, ash, box Alder and

willows to be seen along the river. in the course of the day
we passed several old encampment of Indians, from the apparent
dates of which we conceived that they were the several
encampments of a band of about 100 lodges who were progressing
slowly up the river; the most recent appeared to have
been evacuated about 5 weeks since. these we supposed to be
the Minetares or black foot Indians who inhabit the country
watered by the Suskashawan and who resort to the establishment
of Fort de Prarie.[14] no part of the Missouri from the
Minetaries to this place furnishes a perminent residence for
any nation yet there is no part of it but what exhibits appearances
of being occasionally visited by some nation on hunting
excurtions. The Minnetares of the Missoury we know extend
their excurtions on the S. (South) side as high as the yellowstone
river; the Assinniboins still higher on the N. side most
probably as high as about Porcupine river and from thence
upwards most probably as far as the mountains by the Minetares
of Fort de Prarie and the Black Foot Indians who
inhabit the S. fork of the Suskashawan. I say the Missouri
to the Rocky mountains for I am convinced that it penetrates
those mountains for a considerable distance. Two buffaloe
killed this evening a little above our encampmt.

Courses and Distances May 30th. 1805.

             

N. 70°. W.	1/4.	Along the timbered bottom on the Stard. side opposite to a high clift.
N. 50°. W.	2.	to a few trees on a Lard. point.
N. 60°. W.	3/4	to a broken trunk of a tree on a Stard. point opposite to a high black bluff.
N. 70°. W.	1 1/4.	On the Stard. side to a few willows.
N. 30°. W.	1 1/4	On the Stard. side to the entrance of a run in a bend.
S. 55°. W.	2 1/2	to a grove of trees in a bend, on Lard. side at the entrance of a run, passing a small Island on the Stard. side at 2 M, above which we encamped on the Stard. side.
Miles	8.

[Clark:]

May 30th Thursday 1805

The rain commenced yesterday evining, and continued
moderately through the course of the night, more rain has
now fallin than we have experienced since the 15th. of September
last, the rain continued this morning, and the wind too
high for us to proceed, untill about 11 oClock at which time
we set out, and proceeded on with great labour, we were
obliged to make use of the Tow rope & the banks were so
muddey & slipery that the men could scercely walk not with
standing we proceeded on as well as we could wind hard
from the N W. in attempting to assend a rapid our toe cord
broke & we turned without injurey, those rapids or shoaley
points are noumerous and dificuelt, one being at the mouth
of every drean Some little rain at times all day one man
assended the high countrey and it was raining & snowing on
those hills, the day has proved to be raw and cold. Back
from the river is tollerably leavel, no timber of any kind on
the hills, and only a fiew scattering cotton willow & ash near
the river, much hard rock, & rich earth, the small portion
of rain which has fallen causes the rich earth as deep as is wet
to slip into the river or bottoms &c.

We discover in several places old encampments of large
bands of Indians, a fiew weeks past and appear to be makeing
up the river. Those Indians we believe to be the Blackfoot
Inds. or Menitares who inhabit the heads of the Saskashowin
& north of this place. and trade a little in the Fort de Prarie
establishments. we camped in a grove of cotton trees on the
Stard Side, river rise 1 1/2 In.

Course & Distance May 30th 1805

               

	mile
N. 70°. W	1/4	along the timbered bottom on the Stard. point opsd. a high clift
N. 50°. W.	2	to a fiew trees on a Lard. point
N. 60°. W.	3/4	to a stump on the Stard point opposit a high black bluff
N. 70°. W.	1 1/4	on the Stard Side to a fiew willows
N. 30°. W.	1 1/4	on the Stard Side to the mouth of a run in a bend.
S. 55°. W.	2 1/2	to a grove of trees in a bend to the Lard Side at the mouth of a run passed a small Island on the Stard Side at 2 miles above which we encamped on the Stard Side
miles	8

[Lewis:]

Friday May 31st 1805.—

This morning we proceeded at an early hour with the two
perogues leaving the canoes and crews to bring on the meat
of the two buffaloe that were killed last evening and which
had not been brought in as it was late and a little off the
river. soon after we got under way it began to rain and continued
untill meridian when it ceased but still remained cloudy
through the ballance of the day. The obstructions of rocky
points and riffles still continue as yesterday; at those places
the men are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits,
and the water is yet very could, and so frequent are those
point[s] that they are one fourth of their time in the water,
added to this the banks and bluffs along which they are obliged
to pass are so slippery and the mud so tenacious that they are
unable to wear their mockersons, and in that situation draging
the heavy burthen of a canoe and walking acasionally for
several hundred yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which
tumble from the clifts and garnish the borders of the river;
in short their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those
faithfull fellows bear it without a murmur. The toe rope of
the white perogue, the only one indeed of hemp, and that on
which we most depended, gave way today at a bad point, the
perogue swung and but slightly touched a rock; yet was very
near overseting; I fear her evil gennii will play so many
pranks with her that she will go to the bottomm some of those
days.

Capt. C. walked on shore this morning but found it so excessively
bad that he shortly returned. at 12 OC.M we came
too for refreshment and gave the men a dram which they
received with much cheerfullness, and well deserved.

The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a
most romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to
the high of from 2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly
perpendicular; they are formed of remarkable white sandstone
which is sufficiently soft to give way readily to the impression
of water; two or thre thin horizontal stratas of white freestone,
on which the rains or water make no impression, lie
imbeded in these clifts of soft stone near the upper part of

them; the earth on the top of these Clifts is a dark rich
loam, which forming a graduly ascending plain extends back
from 1/2 a mile to a mile where the hills commence and rise
abruptly to a hight of about 300 feet more. The water in
the course of time in decending from those hills and plains
on either side of the river has trickled down the soft sand clifts
and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures, which with the
help of a little immagination and an oblique view, at a distance
are made to represent eligant ranges of lofty freestone buildings,
having their parapets well stocked with statuary; collumns
of various sculpture both grooved and plain, are also
seen supporting long galleries in front of those buildings; in
other places on a much nearer approach and with the help of
less immagination we see the remains or ruins of eligant buildings;
some collumns standing and almost entire with their
pedestals and capitals; others retaining their pedestals but
deprived by time or accident of their capitals, some lying prostrate
an broken othe[r]s in the form of vast pyramids of connic
structure bearing a serees of other pyramids on their tops
becoming less as they ascend and finally terminating in a sharp
point. nitches and alcoves of various forms and sizes are seen
at different hights as we pass. a number of the small martin
which build their nests with clay in a globular form attatched
to the wall within those nitches, and which were seen hovering
about the tops of the collumns did not the less remind us of
some of those large stone buildings in the U. States. the thin
stratas of hard freestone intermixed with the soft sandstone
seems to have aided the water in forming this curious scenery.
As we passed on it seemed as if those seens of visionary inchantment
would never have and [an] end; for here it is too
that nature presents to the view of the traveler vast ranges of
walls of tolerable workmanship, so perfect indeed are those
walls that I should have thought that nature had attempted
here to rival the human art of masonry had I not recollected
that she had first began her work. These walls rise to the
hight in many places of 100 feet, are perpendicular, with two
regular faces and are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains
the same thickness at top which it possesses at bottom.
The stone of which these walls are formed is black, dence and
dureable, and appears to be composed of a large portion of
earth intermixed or cemented with a small quantity of sand
and a considerable portion of talk or quarts. these stones are
almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal sizes in
the walls, but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to
debth. these are laid regularly in ranges on each other like
bricks, each breaking or covering the interstice of the two on
which it rests. thus the purpendicular interstices are broken,
and the horizontal ones extend entire throughout the whole
extent of the walls. These stones seem to bear some proportion
to the thickness of the walls in which they are employed,
being larger in the thicker walls; the greatest length of the
parallelepiped appears to form the thickness of the thinner
walls, while two or more are employed to form that of the
thicker walls. These walls pass the river in several places,
rising from the water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs,
which they seem to penetrate; thence continuing their course
on a streight line on either side of the river through the gradually
ascending plains, over which they tower to the hight of
from ten to seventy feet untill they reach the hills, which they
finally enter and conceal themselves. these walls sometimes
run parallel to each other, with several ranges near each other,
and at other times interscecting each other at right angles,
having the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or gardens.
I walked on shore this evening and examined these
walls minutely and preserved a specimine of the stone. I
found the face of many of the river hills formed of Clifts of
very excellent free stone of a light yellowish brown colour; on
these clifts I met with a species of pine which I had never
seen, it differs from the pitch-pine in the particular of it's
leaf and cone, the first being vastly shorter, and the latter considerably
longer and more pointed. I saw near those bluffs
the most beautifull fox that I ever beheld, the colours appeared
to me to be a fine orrange yellow, white and black; I endevoured
to kill this anamal but it discovered me at a considerable
distance, and finding that I could get no nearer, I fired
on him as he ran, and missed him; he concealed himself under
the rocks of the clift; it appeared to me to be about the size
of the common red fox of the Atlantic states, or reather smaller
than the large fox common to this country; convinced I am
that it is a distinct species.[15] The appearance of coal continu[e]s
but in small quantities, but litt[l]e appearance of
birnt hills or pumice stone. the mineral salts have in some
measure abated and no quarts. we saw a great number of the
Bighorn some mule deer and a few buffaloe and Elk, no antelopes
or common deer. Drewyer who was with me and
myself killed two bighorned anamals; the sides of the Clifts
where these anamals resort much to lodg, have the peculiar
smell of the sheepfolds. the party killed in addition to our
hunt 2 buffaloe and an Elk. the river today has been from
150 to 250 yds. wide but little timber today on the river.

Courses and distances of May 31st. 1805.

                             

N. 45°. W.	2.	to a few trees in a bend on Stard. side
S. 80°. W.	1/2	to a few trees on a Stard. point
N. 80°. W.	1/4	On the Stard. point
N. 60°. W.	1 3/4	to the lower part of the timber in a Stard. bend
West	1/4	to a few trees on the Stard. side.
N. 78°. W.	2.	to some trees on the Stard. side.
West	2.	to a point on the Stard. side.
N. 45°. W.	1/4.	Along the Stard. point.
N. 30°. W.	1/4.	Along the Stard. point passing a high wall of black rock on Lard. rising from the water's edge above the river clifts.
North	1 1/2	to a tree in a bend on Stard. opposite to a high open bottom.
N. 42°. W.	1.	to a point on the Stard. side
N. 10°. E.	3/4	to a point on the Lard. side opposite to a wall of black rock 200 feet high penetrating the bluff
N. 20°. W.	2.	to four trees in a bend on Lard. side
North	3 1/2	to the upper part of a timbered bottom on the Stard. side above the entrance of a stone wall creek affording water and 28 Yds. wide just above the mouth of which we encamped. at 1. M on this course passed a high stone wall on Std. 12 feet thick and rising 200 feet.
Miles	18

[Clark:]

May 31st Friday 1805[16]

A cloudy morning we dispatched all the canoes to collect
the meat of 2 Buffalow killed last night a head and a little
off the river, and proceeded on with the perogues at an early
hour. I attempted to walk on shore soon found it verry
laborious as the mud stuck to my mockersons & was verry
slippery. I returned on board. it continued to rain moderately
untill about 12 oClock when it ceased, & continued
cloudy. the stones on the edge of the river continue to form
verry considerable rapids, wc are troublesom & dificuelt to
pass, our toe rope which we are obliged to make use of
altogether broke & we were in some danger of turning over in
the perogue in which I was, we landed at 12 and refreshed
the men with a dram, our men are obliged to undergo great
labour and fatigue in assending this part of the Missouri, as
they are compelled from the rapidity of the current in many
places to walk in the water & on slippery hill sides on the
sides of rocks, on Gravel & thro' a stiff mud bear footed, as
they cannot keep on mockersons from the stiffness of the mud
& decline of the slipery hills sides. The Hills and river
clifts of this day exhibit a most romantick appearance on
each side of the river is a white soft sand stone bluff which
rises to about half the hight of the hills, on the top of this
clift is a black earth, in maney places this sand stone appears
like antient ruins some like elegant buildings at a distance,
some like Towers &c. &c. in maney places of this days march
we observe on either side of the river extraodanary walls of a
black semented stone which appear to be regularly placed one
stone on the other, some of those walls run to the hite of
100 feet, they are from about 1 foot to 12 feet thick and are
perpendicular, those walls commence at the waters edge & in
some places meet at right angles. those walls appear to continue
their course into the sand clifts, the stones which form
those walls are of different sizes all squar edged, Great
numbers has fallen off from the walls near the river which

cause the walls to be of uneaquil hite, in the evening the
countrey becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber
on the uplands, except a few cedar & pine on the clifts a few
scattering cotton trees on the points in the river bottoms.
The appearance of coal continues Capt Lewis walked on
shore & observed a species of Pine we had never before seen,
with a shorter leaf than common & the bur different, he also
collected some of the stones off one of the walls which appears
to be a sement of Isin glass [and] black earth we camped on
the Stard Side in a small timbered bottom above the mouth of
a Creek on the Stard Side our hunters killed 2 animals with
big horns, 2 Buffalow & an Elk. we saw Great numbers of
those big horned animals on the clifts, but fiew Buffalow or
Elk, no antelope, a fiew mule deer, saw a fox to day. The
river rises a little it is from 150 to 250 yds wide

Course & Distance May 31st. 1805

                               

	miles
N. 45°. W.	2	to a fiew trees in a bend Stard. Side.
S. 80°. W.	1/2	to a fiew trees on the Stard. point
N. 80°. W.	1/4	on the Stard. point
N. 60°. W.	1 3/4	to the lower part of a timber in a Stard. bend
West	1/4	to a fiew trees on the Stard. Side
N. 78°. W	2	to some trees on the Stard. Side
West	2	to the point on the Stard. Side
N. 45°. W.	1/4	on the Stard. point
N. 30°. W	1/4	on the Stard. point opsd. a high steep black rock riseing from the waters edge
North	1 1/2	to a tree in a bend to the Stard. Side opsd. a high open bottom
N. 42°. W.	1	to the point on the Stard. Side
N. 10°. E	3/4	to a point on the Lard. Side a high black conical rock of 200 feet high on the Std. Sd.
N. 20°. W.	2	to 4 trees in a bend to the Lard. Side
North	3 1/2	to the upper part of a timbered bottom on the Stard. Side above the mouth of Stonewall creek which contains water passed a high stone wall about 200 feet high & 12 feet thick on the Std Side & encamped at the mouth of the creek S.S. in a thickly timbered bottom of small cotton wood this creek is a bold stream of clear water
miles	18

[Lewis:]

Saturday June 1st 1805.

The mor[n]ing was cloudy and a few drops of rain. Set
out at an early hour and proceeded as usual by the help of our
chords. the river Clifts and bluffs not so high as yesterday
and the country becomes more level. a mountain or a part of
the N. Mountains appears to approach the river within 8 or
10 Ms. bearing N. from our encampment of the last evening.
Capt. C. who walked on shore today informed me that the
river hills were much lower than usual and that from the tops
of those hills he had a delightfull view of rich level and extensive
plains on both sides of the river; in those plains, which in
many places reach the river clifts, he observed large banks of
pure sand which appeared to have been d[r]iven by the S. W.
winds from the river bluffs and there deposited. the plains
are more fertile at some distance from the river than near the
bluffs where the surface of the earth is very generally covered
with small smothe pebbles which have the appearance of having
been woarn by the agitation of the waters in which they
were no doubt once immerced. A range of high Mountains
appear to the S. W. at a considerable distance covered with
snow; they appear to run Westerly. no timber appears on
the highlands; but much more than yesterday on the river
and Islands. rockey points and shoals less frequent than
yesterday but some of them quite as bad when they did occur.
the river from 2 to 400 yards. wide, courant more gentle and
still becoming clearer. game is by no means as abundant as
below; we killed one male bighorn and a mule deer today;
saw buffalow at a distance in the plains particularly near a
small Lake on Lard. side about 8 Ms distant. some few drops
of rain again fell this evening. We passed Six Islands and
encamped on the 7th.; they are all small but contain some
timber. the wind has been against us all day. I saw the
choke cherry the yellow and red courant bushes; the wild
rose appears now to be in full bloom as are also the prickley
pear which are numerous in these plains. We also saw some
Indian Lodges of sticks today which did not appear to have
been long evacuated. some coal appea[r]s in the bluffs.

Courses and distances of June 1st. 1805.

                                   

N. 58°. W.	2 1/2	to the Point on the Stard. side.
N. 45°. W.	1 1/4	to a point on the Lard. side
N. 60°. W.	1 1/4	to a point on the Stard. side
N. 50°. W.	1 1/2	to a tree on the Lard. side
N. 25°. W.	1 1/4	to a point on the Stard. side
N. 30°. W.	3/4	Along the Stard. shore to a point of woodland.
N. 20°. W.	1.	to a point of timber on the Lard. side opst to a bluff
N. 48°. W.	3/4	to a point of timbered land Stard.
N. 55°. W.	1 1/2	to a point of timbered land Lard.
N. 60°. W.	1 3/4	to a point of a bluff in a bend on Stard. oppst. to a small Island.
S. 58°. W.	1 1/2	to a point on the Stard. side
S. 60°. W.	1.	to the upper point of a small Island on the Std. side passing a Lard. point at 3/4 of a mile.
S. 40°. W.	3/4	to a bluff point in a bend on Lard. side
West	1.	to the centre of a Stard. bend.
South	2 1/2	to a Stard point opposite to a high bluff
S. 20°. W.	3/4	to a bluff on the Stard. side opposite to an Island.
N. 65°. W.	2.	to a small island near a high bluff on Stard., passing two other Islands; the 1st. on Lard. and 2nd. near the extremity of this course. encamped on the 3rd. Island at the termineation of this course.
Miles	23.

[Clark:]

June 1st Satterday 1805

A cloudy morning we set out at an early hour and proseeded
on as usial with the tow rope. The countrey appears
to be lower and the clifts not so high or common, a mountain
or a part of the north Mountain about 8 or 10 miles N. of
this place. I walked on shore to day found the Plains much
lower than we have seen them and on the top we behold an
extencive plain on both sides, in this plain I observe maney
knoles of fine sand which appeared to have blown from the
river bluffs and collected at these points Those plains are
firtile near the river a great n°. of small stone, I observed at
some distance to the S W. a high mountain which appears to
bear westerly. The cole appears as usial, more cotton trees
scattered on the shores & Islands than yesterday. no timber
on the high land, the river from 2 to 400 yards wide & current

more jentle than yesterday but fiew bad rapid points to
day. the wild animals not so plenty as below we only killed
a ram & mule Deer to day, we saw Buffalow at a distance
in the plains, particularly near a Lake on the Lard Side about
8 miles distant from the river. We passed Six Islands and
encamped on the 7th. all those Islands are small but contain
some timber on them The river riseing a little. Wind to
day from the S.W. som fiew drops of rain in the morning
and also in the evening, flying clouds all day

Course and Distance June the 1st. 1805

                                     

	miles
N. 58°. W.	2 1/2	to a point on the Stard Side
N. 45°. W.	1 1/4	to a point on the Lard. Side
N. 60°. W.	1 1/4	to a point on the Stard. Side
N. 50°. W.	1 1/2	to a tree on the Lard. Side
N. 25°. W.	1 1/4	to a point on the Stard. Side
N. 30°. W.	3/4	allong the Stard Shore to a point of woodland
N. 20°. W.	1	to a point of timber on the Lard Side opsd. to a bluff on the Stard. Side
N. 48°. W.	3/4	to a point of timbered land Stard. Side
N. 55°. W.	1 1/2	to a point of timbered land on the Lard. Sd.
N. 60°. W.	1 3/4	to the point of a bluff in a bend on Stard. opposite. to a small Island
S. 58°. W.	1 1/2	to a point on the Stard. Side
S. 60°. W.	1	to the upper point of a small Island, on the Stard Side passd. Lard. pt. at 3/4 of a m.
S. 40°. W.	3/4	to a bluff point in a bend to the Lard. Side
West	1	to the center of a Stard. bend
South	2 1/2	to a Stard point opposit a high bluff
S. 20°. W.	3/4	to a Bluff on the Stard Side opsd. an Isd.
N 65°. W.	2	to a Small Island near a high bluff on the Stard., passing two other Islands first on the Lard. & the 2nd. near the extremity of the course, and Encamped on the 3rd. Island
miles	23

Saw several Indian camps made of sticks & bark set up on
end and do not appear to be long evacuated. The roses are
in full bloom, I observe yellow berries, red berry bushes
Great numbers of Wild or choke Cheries, prickley pares
are in blossom & in great numbers.

[Lewis:]

Sunday June 2nd. 1805.

The wind blew violently last night and was attended by a
slight shower of rain; the morning was fair and we set out at
an early hour. imployed the chord as usual the greater part
of the day. the courant was strong tho' regular, and the
banks afforded us good toeing. the wind was hard and against
us yet we proceded with infinitely more ease than the two precedeing
days. The river bluffs still continue to get lower and
the plains leveler and more extensive; the timber on the river
increases in quantity; the country in all other rispects much
as discribed yesterday. I think we are now completely above
the black hills (see note of May 29). we had a small shower
of rain today but it lasted only a few minutes and was very
moderate. Game becomeing more abundant this morning and
I thought it best now to loose no time or suffer an opportunity
to escape in providing the necessary quantity of Elk's
skins to cover my leather boat which I now expect I shall be
obliged to use shortly. Accordingly I walked on shore most
of the day with some of the hunters for that purpose and
killed 6 Elk 2 buffal[o]e 2 Mule deer and a bear, these
anamals were all in good order we therefore took as much of
the meat as our canoes and perogues could conveniently carry.
the bear was very near catching Drewyer; it also pursued
Charbono who fired his gun in the air as he ran but fortunately
eluded the vigilence of the bear by secreting himself
very securely in the bushes untill Drewyer finally killed it by
a shot in the head; the (only) shot indeed that will conquer
the farocity of those tremendious anamals. in the course of
the day we passed 9 Islands all of them small and most of
them containing some timber. we came too on the Lard. side
in a handsome bottom of small cottonwood timber opposite
to the entrance of a very considerable river; but it being too
late to ex[a]mine these rivers minutely to night we determined
to remain here untill the morning, and as the evening was
favourable to make some observations.

Courses and distances June 2nd. 1805.

                                       

N. 85°. W.	3/4	to a few trees on a Lard. point.
S. 60°. W.	1/4.	Along the Lard. point opposite to a bluff.
S. 40°. W.	1/2	to some trees in a Stard. Bend.
S. 20°. E.	1.	to some willows on the Lard. side
S. 30°. E.	1.	to a bush on a Stard. point opposite to a low bluff
South	1/4.	Along the Stard. point.
S. 45°. W.	1/2.	to a tree in a Lard. bend
West	2.	to a point on Lard. side opposite to a bluff
S. 68°. W.	1/4.	Along the Lard. shore oppst. an Island.
S. 35°. W.	1/4.	Along the Lard. shore
S. 25°. W.	1.	to the point of a timbered bottom on Lard.
South	2 3/4.	to a point on Stard. oppst. a dark bluff, passing three Islands; small.
S. 60°. W.	1.	Along the Stard. side passing two small Islands on Lard.
N. 80°. W.	1 3/4	to a Lard. point opposite to a bluff.
S. 10°. W.	1 1/2	to the Lower point of an Island near a Stard. point.
S. 65°. W.	2.	to a point of timber on the Lard. side opposite a bluff the Island and also another small one near the Stard. side.
S. 20° W.	1/2	to the head of an island
South	1/2	to a Point of timber on the Stard. side.
S. 72°. W.	1/4	to a point between two large rivers one of which is 362 Yd. and the 2nd. or right hand fork [Maria's] is 200 Yds. wide. encamped on the Lard. shore opposite the junction of those rivers.
Miles	18.

Point of observation No. 25. June 2nd.

On the Lard. side, one mile from the commencement of the 12th. course
of this day, observed Meridian Altd. of ☉s. L. L. with Octant by the
back observation 57°. 52'. Latitude deduced from this observation
[blank space in MS.]

Point of Observation No. 26.

At our encampment of this evening on the Lard. side of the Missouri.
Observed time and distance of D's. Western limb from Spica mR., * East,
with Sextant.

                   

	Time	Distance		Time	Distance
	h m s			h m s
P.M.	10. 58. 53	53°. 56.′ 45″	P.M.	11. 30. 43.	53°. 42′ 45″
	11. 3. 33	" 55. 30.		" 33. 46	" 41. 15
	" 5. 52	" 54. 30.		". 36. 2	". 40. 15.
	" 8. 15.	" 52. 30.		". 38. 35.	". 38. 45.
	". 10. 52.	". 52. 30.		". 41. 28.	". 36. 30.
	". 13. 16.	". 50. 45.		". 43. 16.	". 36. 15.
	". 15. 6.	". 49. 15.		". 45. 12.	". 34. 45.
	". 18. 22.	". 48.—		". 47.—	". 33.—

Point of Observation No. 27. June 3rd.

On the point formed by the junction of Maria's River and the
Missouri, Observed equal altds. of ☉ with Sextant.

       

	h m s		h m s
A.M.	8. 57. 19	P.M.	5. 42. 39	Altd. at the time of observation.
	". 58. 55.		". 44. 14
	Lost by Clouds.		" 45. 48.	65°. 12′—″.

     

Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉'s. L. L. with	56°. 6'
Octant by the back observation
Latitude deduced from this observation	47°. 24′ 12″ .8

Observed time and distance of ☉'s. and D's. nearest limbs
with Sextant ☉. West.

                   

	Time.	Distance.		Time.	Distance.
	h m s			h m s
P.M.	5. 54. 49.	85°. 47′ 30″	P.M.	6. 14. 30	85°. 53′ 45″
	". 57. 7.	". 48.—		". 16. 56	". 55.—
	". 58. 19	". 48. 15.		". 17. 12	". 55. 30.
	". 59. 47	". 48. 45.		". 18. 12.	". 55. 30
	6. 2. 8	". 49. 45.		". 20. 46.	". 56. 45
	". 3. 36	". 49. 45.		". 21. 49.	". 57. 15
	". 5. 7.	". 50. 15.		". 22. 33.	". 55. 15.
	". 6. 4.	". 51. –		". 23. 11.	". 58. 15.

[Clark:]

June 2nd Sunday 1805

We had a hard wind and a little rain last night, this morning
fair we set out at an early hour, wind from the S W.
some little rain to day wind hard a head, the countrey much

like that of yesterday as discribed Capt Lewis walked on
shore, himself & the hunters killed 6 Elk & a Bear and 2
mule deer, and 2 buffalow which was all in good order, a
beaver also killed to day, passed 9 Islands to day the current
swift but regular, we camped on the Lard Side at the
forks of the river the currents & Sizes of them [the rivers]
we could not examine this evening a fair night we took
some Luner observations of moon & stears.

Course Distance 2nd" of June 1805

                                         

	miles
N. 85° W	3/4	to a fiew trees on the Lard point
S. 60°. W	1/4	on the Lard point opposit a bluff
S. 40°. W.	1/2	to some trees in the Stard. bend
S. 20°. E.	1	to some willows on the Lard. Side
S. 30 E	1	to a bush on the Stard. point opsd. a low bluff.
South	1/4	on the Stard. point.
S. 45°. W.	1/2	to a tree in a bend on Lard. Side
West	2	to a point on the Lard. Side opposd to a bluff
S. 68°. W	1/4	on the Lard Side opsd. an Island
S. 35°. W.	1/4	on the Lard Side
S. 25°. W.	1	to a point of a timbered bottom on the Lard. Side
South	2 3/4	to a point on Stard. Side opsd. a dark bluff passed 3 small Islands
S. 60°. W.	1 m.	on the Stard. Side passed 2 Isds. on Lard Side
N. 80°. W.	1 3/4	to the Lard. point opsd. a bluff
S. 10°. W.	1 1/2	to the lower point of an Island near the Stard point.
S. 65°. W.	2	to a point of timber on the Lard Side opsd. a bluff passed the Isld. and one near Std Side
S. 20°. W.	1/2	to the head of an Island
South	1/2	to a point of timber on the Stard. Side
S. 72°. W	1/4	to a point between two large rivers one 362 yards & the other 200
miles	18

[Lewis:]

Monday June 3rd. 1805.

This morning early we passed over and formed a camp on
the point formed by the junction of the two large rivers. here
in the course of the day I continued my observations as are
above stated. An interesting question was now to be determined;
which of these rivers was the Missouri, or that river

which the Minnetares call Amahte Arz-zha or Missouri, and
which they had discribed to us as approaching very near to
the Columbia river. to mistake the stream at this period of
the season, two months of the traveling season having now
elapsed, and to ascend such stream to the rocky Mountain
or perhaps much further before we could inform ourselves
whether it did approach the Columbia or not, and then be
obliged to return and take the other stream would not only
loose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten
the party that it might defeat the expedition altogether.
convinced we were that the utmost circumspection and caution
was necessary in deciding on the stream to be taken. to this
end an investigation of both streams was the first thing to be
done; to learn their widths, debths, comparitive rappidity of
their courants and thence the comparitive bodies of water
furnished by each; accordingly we dispatched two light canoes
with three men in each up those streams; we also sent out
several small parties by land with instructions to penetrate
the country as far as they conveniently can permitting themselves
time to return this evening and indeavour if possible
to discover the distant bearing of those rivers by ascending
the rising grounds. between the time of my A. M. and
meridian Capt. C. & myself stroled out to the top of the
hights in the fork of these rivers from whence we had an
extensive and most inchanting view; the country in every
derection around us was one vast plain in which innumerable
herds of Buffalow were seen attended by their shepperds the
wolves; the solatary antelope which now had their young
were distributed over it's face; some herds of Elk were also
seen; the verdure perfectly cloathed the ground, the weather
was pleasent and fair; to the South we saw a range of lofty
mountains which we supposed to be a continuation of the
S. Mountains, streching themselves from S. E. to N. W.
terminating abbrubtly about S. West from us; these were
partially covered with snow; behind these Mountains and
at a great distance, a second and more lofty range of mountains
appeared to strech across the country in the same direction
with the others, reaching from West, to the N of N. W.,
where their snowey tops lost themselves beneath the horizon.
this last range was perfectly covered with snow. the direction
of the rivers could be seen but little way, soon loosing the
break of their channels, to our view, in the common plain.
on our return to camp we boar a little to the left and discovered
a handsome little river falling into the N. fork on
Lard. side about 1 1/2 above our camp. this little river has
as much timber in it's bottoms as either of the larger streams.
there are a great number of prickley pears in these plains;
the Choke cherry grows here in abundance both in the river
bottoms and in the steep ravenes along the river bluffs. saw
the yellow and red courants, not yet ripe; also the goosberry
which begins to ripen; the wild rose which grows here in
great abundance in the bottoms of all these rivers is now in
full bloom, and adds not a little to the bea[u]ty of the
cenery. we took the width of the two rivers, found the left
hand or S. fork 372 yards and the N. fork 200. The no[r]th
fork is deeper than the other but it's courant not so swift;
it's waters run in the same boiling and roling manner which
has uniformly characterized the Missouri throughout it's
whole course so far; it's waters are of a whitish brown colour
very thick and terbid, also characteristic of the Missouri;
while the South fork is perfectly transparent runds very rappid
but with a smoth unriffled surface it's bottom composed of
round and flat smooth stones like most rivers issuing from
a mountainous country. the bed of the N. fork composed
of some gravel but principally mud; in short the air & character
of this river is so precisely that of the missouri below
that the party with very few exceptions have already pronounced
the N. fork to be the Missouri; myself and Capt. C.
not quite so precipitate have not yet decided but if we were
to give our opinions I believe we should be in the minority,
certain it is that the North fork gives the colouring matter
and character which is retained from hence to the gulph of
Mexico. I am confident that this river rises in and passes a
great distance through an open plain country. I expect that
it has some of it's sou[r]ces on the Eastern side of the rocky
mountain South of the Saskashawan, but that it dose not
penetrate the first range of these Mountains. and that much
the greater part of it's sources are in a northwardly direction
towards the lower and middle parts of the Saskashawan in
the open plains. convinced I am that if it penetrated the
Rocky Mountains to any great distance it's waters would be
clearer unless it should run an immence distance indeed after
leaving those mountains through these level plains in order
to acquire it's turbid hue. what astonishes us a little is that
the Indians who appeared to be so well acquainted with the
geography of this country should not have mentioned this
river on wright hand if it be not the Missouri; the river that
scolds at all others, as they call it if there is in reallity such an
one, ought agreeably to their account, to have fallen in a
considerable distance below, and on the other hand if this
right hand or N. fork be the Missouri I am equally astonished
at their not mentioning the S. fork which they must have
passed in order to get to those large falls which they mention
on the Missouri. thus have our cogitating faculties been
busily employed all day.

Those who have remained at camp today have been busily
engaged in dressing skins for cloathing, notwithstanding that
many of them have their feet so mangled and bruised with
the stones and rough ground over which they passed barefoot,
that they can scarcely walk or stand; at least it is with great
pain they do either. for some days past they were unable
to wear their mockersons; they have fallen off considerably,
but notwithstanding the difficulties past, or those which seem
now to mennace us, they still remain perfectly cheerfull. In
the evening the parties whom we had sent out returned
agreeably to instructions. The parties who had been sent
up the rivers in canoes informed that they ascended some
distance and had then left their canoes and walked up the
rivers a considerable distance further barely leaving themselves
time to return; the North fork was not so rappid as
the other and afforded the easiest navigation of course; six
(7) feet appeared to be the shallowest water of the S. Branch
and 5 feet that of the N. Their accounts were by no means
satisfactory nor did the information we acquired bring us

nigher to the decision of our question or determine us which
stream to take. Sergt. Pryor hand [had] ascended the N. fork
and had taken the following courses and distances viz—

       

S. 60°. W.	2	Mis. to some timber on the Lard. side
West—	2.	to a point on the Stard. side, passing the entrance of a river at 1/2 M. on Lard. side which was 60 yards wide and three feet deep boatd court.
N. 50° W	3.	to a point on lard. side
S. 80°. W.	3.	to a point on Lard. side. thence the river bares to the N of West leaving a high hill to the Stard.

Sergt. Gass ascended the South fork and took the following
courses (viz.)

           

S. 30. W.	1.	M1. to a point Lard. passing three Islands.
South—	1.	to the Lard. point of an Island.
S. 60°. E.	2.	to a tree on the Stard. side
N. 50°. E	1.	to on object in a bank Lard. side opst. to the lower point of an Island.
S. 70. E	1 1/2	to a tree on the Lard. side passing an Island
S. 10°. E	1.	M. thence the general course S. 30 W. 5 Mls. or as far as he could discover the direction of the river.

Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had been up
the South fork about 7 Mls. on a streight course somewhat N
of W. and that there the little river which discharges itself
into the North fork just above us, was within 100 yards of the
S. fork; that they came down this little river and found it a
boald runing stream of about 40 yds. wide contai[n] ng much
timber in it's bottom, consisting of the narrow and wide leafed
cottonwood with some birch and box alder undrgrowth willows
rosebushes currents &c. they saw a great number of Elk on
this river and some beaver. Those accounts being by no
means satisfactory as to the fundamental point; Capt. C. and
myself concluded to set out early the next morning with a
small party each, and ascend these rivers untill we could perfectly
satisfy ourselves of the one, which it would be most expedient
for us to take on our main journey to the Pacific.
accordingly it was agreed that I should ascend the right hand

fork and he the left. I gave orders to Serjt. Pryor Drewyer,
Shields, Windsor, Cruzatte and La Page to hold themselves in
readiness to accompany me in the morning. Capt. Clark also
selected Reubin & Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass, Shannon and his
black man York, to accompany him. we agreed to go up those
rivers one day and a halfs march or further if it should appear
necessary to satisfy us more fully of the point in question. the
hunters killed 2 Buffaloe, 6 Elk and 4 deer today. the evening
proved cloudy. we took a drink of grog this evening and
gave the men a dram, and made all matters ready for an early
departure in the morning. I had now my sack and blanket
happerst[17] in readiness to swing on my back, which is the first
time in my life that I had ever prepared a burthen of this kind,
and I am fully convinced that it will not be the last. I take
my Octant with me also, this I confide [to] La Page.

[Clark:]

June 3rd. Monday 1805

We formed a camp on the point in the junction of the two
rivers, and dispatched a canoe & three men up each river to
examine and find if possible which is the most probable branch,
the left fork which is the largest we are doubtfull of, the Indians
do not mention any river falling in on the right in this
part of the Missouri, The Scolding river, if there is such a
one should have fallen in below agreeable to their auty. We
also despatched men in different direct[ion]s by land, to a
mountain covered with snow to the South & others up each
river. Capt Lewis and my self walked out & assended the hill
in the point observed a leavel open countrey to the foot of
the mountains which lye South of this, also a River which falls
into the Right hand fork about 1 1/2 miles above its mouth on
the Lard. Side this little river discharges a great deal of water
& contains as much cotton timber in its bottoms as either of
the others we saw Buffalow & Antelopes &c. wild cheries,
red & yellow burries, Goose berries &c. abound in the river bottoms,
prickley pares on the high plains, we had a meridian

altitude and the Latt.d produced was 47°. 24′–12″ N. the after
part of the day proved cloudy, we measured each river
and found the one to Right hand 200 yards wide of water &
the Left hand fork 372 yards wide & rapid. the right hand
fork falling the other at a stand and clear, the right fork and
the river which fall into it is coloured & a little muddey.
Several men complain of their feet being sore in walking in
the sand & their being cut by the stones They to be sure
have a bad time of it obliged to walk on shore & haul the rope
and 9/10 of their time bear footed, in the evening late the
canoes returned and the men informed us that they had assended
some miles by water & left their canoes & walked on
land the greater part of the day, their accounts by no means
satisfactory, Serjt Pryor assended the right hand fork and took
the following courses, &c

       

S. 60°. W.	2	to a timber on the Lard Side
West	2	to a point on the Stard. Side passd. a River L S. 60 yds. wide 3 feet deep
N. 50°. W.	3	to a point on the Lard Side
S. 80°. W	3	to a point on the Lard Side

thence the river bears to the N. of west leaveing a knob to the
right.

Serjt. Gass assended the left hand fork and took the following
courses viz:

               

	m
S. 30°. W.	1	to a pt. L. S. pass 3 Isds.
South	1	mile to a Lard point of an Island
S. 60°. E.	2	m. to a tree on the Starboard Side
N. 50°. E.	1	m. to an object in the bank Lard. Side opsd. the Lower point of an Island
S. 70°. E	1 1/2	m: to a tree on the Lard. Side passing an Island Genl. course from there
S. 30°. W.		for 5 miles
S. 10°. E.	1	mile, then S.W.

Joseph & Ruben Fields went up the left fork 7 miles on a
derect line at which place the small river which falls into the
right hand fork approaches within 100 yards of the South
fork, they came down the small river which is a bold stream

covered with Elk & some beaver, its bottoms covered with
wood, as the Information given by those parties respecting
the rivers did not satisfy us as to the main & principal branch
Capt Lewis & my self deturmined to go up each of those
rivers one Day & a half with a view to Satisfy ourselves which
of the two was the principal stream and best calculated for us
to assend. The hunters killed 2 buffalow, 6 Elk & several
deer to day. we refreshed our party with a dream &c Cloudy
evining.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday June 4th 1805.

This morning early Capt. C. departed, and at the same time
I passed the wright hand fork opposite to our camp below a
small Island; from hence I steered N. 30. W. 4 1/2 to a commanding
eminence; here I took the following bearings of the
mountains which were in view. The North Mountains appear
to change their direction from that of being parallel with the
Missouri turning to the North and terminating abruptly;
their termineation bearing N. 48°. E distant by estimate 30
Mls. The South Mountains appear to turn to the S. also
terminating abrubtly, their extremity bearing S. 8. W. distant
25 Mls. The Barn Mountain, a lofty mountain so called from
it's resemblance to the roof of a large Barn, is a separate
Mountain and appears reather to the wright of and retreating
from the extremity of the S. Mts.; this boar S 38. W. distant
35. Ms. The north fork which I am now ascending lies to my
left and appears to make a considerable bend to the N. W.
on it's Western border a range of hills about 10 mls. long
appear to lye parallel with the river and from hence bear N.
60°. W. to the N. of this range of hills an Elivated point of
the river bluff on it's Lard. side boar N. 72°. W. distant 12 Mls.
to this last object I now directed my course through a high
level dry open plain. the whole country in fact appears to be
one continued plain to the foot of the mountains or as far as
the eye can reach; the soil appears dark rich and fertile yet
the grass is by no means as high nor dose it look so luxurient
as I should have expected, it is short just sufficient to conceal

the ground. great abundance of prickly pears which are
extreemly troublesome; as the thorns very readily perce the
foot through the Mockerson; they are so numerous that it
requires one half of the traveler's attention to avoid them, In
these plains I observed great numbers of the brown Curloos, a
small species of curloo or plover of a brown colour about the
size of the common snipe and not unlike it in form with a long
celindric curved and pointed beak; it's wings are proportionately
long and the tail short; in the act of liteing this bird
lets itself down by an extention of it's wings without motion
holding their points very much together above it's back in this
rispect differing ascentially from any bird I ever observed. a
number of sparrows also of three distinct species I observed.
also a small bird which in action resembles the lark, it is about
the size of a large sparrow of a dark brown colour with some
white fathers in the tail; this bird or that which I take to
be the male rises into the air about 60 feet and supporting
itself in the air with a brisk motion of the wings sings very
sweetly, has several shrill soft notes reather of the plaintive
order which it frequently repeats and varies, after remaining
stationary about a minute in his aireal station he descends
obliquely occasionly pausing and accomnying his decension
with a note something like twit twit twit; on the ground he
is silent[18] . thirty or forty of these birds will be stationed in the
air at a time in view. these larks as I shall call them add
much to the gayety and cheerfullness of the scene. All those
birds are now seting and laying their eggs in the plains; their
little nests are to be seen in great abundance as we pass. there
are meriads of small grasshoppers in these plains which no
doubt furnish the principal aliment of this numerous progeny
of the feathered creation. after walking about eight miles I
grew thi[r]sty and there being no water in the plains I changed
my direction and boar obliquely in towards the river, on my
arrival at which about 3 Mls. below the point of observation,
we discovered two deer at feed at some distance near the river:
I here halted the party and sent Drewyer to kill one of them
for breakfast; this excellent hunter so[o]n exceded his orders
by killing of them both; they proved to be two Mule Bucks
in fine order; we soon kindled a fire cooked and made a
hearty meal. it was not yet twelve when we arrived at the
river and I was anxious to take the Meridian Altd. of the sun
but the clouds prevented my obtaining the observation. after
refreshing ourselves we proceded up the river to the extremity
of the first course, from whence the river boar on it's general
course N. 15°. W. 2. M. to a bluff point on Stard. here
Drewyer killed four other deer of the common kind; we skined
them and hung up a part of the meat and the skins as we did
also of the first, and took as much of the meat as we thought
would answer for our suppers and proceeded. N. 30. W. 2 M.
to the entrance of a large creek on Lard. side the part of the
river we have passed is from 40 to 60 yds. wide, is deep, has
falling banks, the courant strong, the water terbid and in short
has every appearance of the missouri b[e]low except as to
size. it's bottoms narrow but well timbered. Salts coal and
other mineral appearances as usual; the bluffs principally of
dark brown, yellow and some white clay; some freestone also
appears in places. The river now boar N. 20°. E. 12. Mls. to a
bluff on Lard. At the commencement of this course we
ascended the hills which are about 200 feet high, and passed
through the plains about 3 M. but finding the dry ravenes so
steep and numerous we determined to return to the river and
travel through it's bottoms and along the foot and sides of the
bluffs, accordingly we again reached the river about 4 Miles
from the commencement of the last course and encamped a
small distance above on the Stard. side in a bend among the
willow bushes which defended us from the wind. which blew
hard from the N. W. it rained this evening and wet us to
the skin; the air was extremely could. just before we encamped
Drewyer fired at a large brown bar across the river
and wounded him badly but it was too late to pursue him. I
killed a braro and a beaver, also at the place of our encampment,
a very fine Mule deer. we saw a great number of
Buffaloe, Elk, wolves and foxes today. the river bottoms
form one emence garden of roses, now in full bloe.

[Clark:]

June 4th Tuesday 1805

Capt. Lewis & my self each with a small party of men set out
early. those who accompanied Capt Lewis were G. Drewyer,
Serjt. Pryor, J. Shields, P. Crusat J. B. de Page, R. Winser,
went up the N. side of the N. fork. those who accompanied
me were Serjt. Gass, Jos: & Ruben Fields G Shannon & my
black man york, and we set out to examine the South fork,
our first course was S. 25. W. 7 miles to the S. fork at a
Spring, at which place the little river which falls into the N.
fork is 100 yards distant only Seperated from the South fork
by a narrow ridge, our course from thence S. 20°. W. 8 miles
to the river at an Island where we dined below a small river
[that] falls in on the S E side which heads in a mountain to
the S. E. about 20 miles. North of this place about 4 miles
the little river brakes thro' a high ridge into the open Leavel
plain thro which we have passd from the point, this plain is
covered with low grass & prickley pear, emence number of
Prarie dogs or barking squirrels are thro this plain. after
eating we proceeded on N. 45°. W. Struck the river at 3
miles 5, 9 & 13 miles at which place we encamped in an old
Indian lodge made of Stiks and bark[19] at the river near our
camp we saw two white Bear, one of them was nearly catching
Joseph Field Joseph Fields could not fire, as his gun was
wet, the bear was so near that it struck his foot, and we were
not in a situation to give him assistance, a clift of rocks seperate
us the bear got allarmed at our Shot & yells & took
[to] the river. Some rain all the afternoon Saw Several
Gangues of Buffalow at a distance in the open plains on each
side, Saw Mule deer antelopes & wolves. The river is rapid
& closely hemed on one or the other side with high bluffs,
crouded with Islands & graveley bars containing but a small
quantity of timber on its bottoms & none on the high land.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday June 5th. 1805.

This morning was cloudy and so could that I was obleged
to have recourse to a blanket coat in order to keep myself
comfortable altho' walking. the rain continued during the
greater part of last night. the wind hard from N. W. we
set out at sunrise and proceded up the river eight miles on the
course last taken yesterday evening, at the extremity of which
a large creek falls in on the Stard. 25 yards. wide at it's entrance,
some timber but no water, notwithstanding the rain; it's course
upwards is N. E. it is astonishing what a quantity of water it
takes to saturate the soil of this country, the earth of the
plains are now opened in large crivices in many places and yet
looks like a rich loam from the entrance of this Creek (which
I called Lark C.) the river boar N. 50. W. 4 M. at the
entrance of this creek the bluffs were very steep and approached
the river so near on the Stard. side that we assended
the hills and passed through the plains; at the extremity of
this course we returned to the river which then boar North
2 Mls. from the same point, I discovered a lofty single mountain
which appeard. to be at a great distance, perhaps 80 or
more miles, it boar N. 52. W. from it's conic figure I called
it tower Mountain.[20] we now passed through the river bottoms
to the extremity of the last course thence with the river S 60°.
W. 1 1/2 M. S 10 W. 3 M. N 50. W 1 1/2 at the extremity of
which I again ascended the bluffs of the river which boar West
10. M. the river making a deep bend to the south that is of at
least five miles from the center of the chord line to the center of
the bend. on this course we passed through the plains found
the plains as yesterday extreemly leavel and beautifull, great
quantities of Buffaloe, some wolves foxes and Antelopes seen.
near the river the plain is cut by deep ravenes in this plain
and from one to nine miles from the river or any water, we
saw the largest collection of the burrowing or barking squirrels
that we had ever yet seen; we passed through a skirt of the

territory of this community for about 7 miles: I (we) saw
(near the hills) a flock of the mountain cock, or a large species
of heath hen with a long pointed tail which the Indians informed
us were common to the Rockey Mountains. I sent
Shields to kill one of them but he was obliged to fire a long
distance at them and missed his aim. as we had not killed or
eat anything today we each killed a burrowing squ[i]rrel as we
passed them in order to make shure of our suppers. we again
[in]tersepted the river at the expiration of the last course or
the lard. bluffs, from whence it now boar N 80°. W. 2. Mls.
from this point saw some other lofty mountains to the N. W.
of tower Mtn. which boar N. 65°. W. 80 or 100 Mls. distant at
the expiration of this course we killed five Elk and a blacktailed
or mule deer and encamped on Stard. side of the river in a
handsome well timbered bottom where there were several old
stick lodges. in the forepart of the day there was but little
timber in the river bottoms but the quantity is now greater
than usual. the river is about 80 yds. wide with a strong steady
courant and from 6 to 10 feet [of] water. I had the burrowing
squirrels roasted by way of experiment and found the flesh
well flavored and tender; some of them were very fat.

[Clark:]

June 5th. Wednesday 1805

Some little rain & snow last night the mountains to our S E.
covered with snow this morning air verry cold & raining a
little, we saw 8 buffalow opposit, the[y] made 2 attempts to
cross, the water being so swift they could not, about the time
we were setting out three white bear approached our camp we
killed the three & eate part of one & set out & proceeded on
N. 20°. W 11 miles struck the river at maney places in this
distance to a ridge on the N. Side from the top of which I
could plainly see a mountain to the South & W covered with
Snow at a long distance, The mountains opposit to us to the
S.E. is also covered with snow this morning. a high ridge
from those mountains approach the river on the S E side
forming some clifts of hard dark Stone. From the ridge at
which place I struck the river last, I could discover that the

river run west of south a long distance, and has a strong rapid
current, as this river continued its width debth & rapidity
and the course west of south, going up further would be useless,
I deturmined to return, I accordingly set out, thro'
the plain on a course N 30° E on my return & struck the little
river at 20 miles passing thro a Leavel plain,[21] at the little
river we killed 2 buck Elk & dined on their marrow bones,
proceeded on a few miles & camped, haveing killed 2 deer
which was verry fat, some few drops of rain today, the
evening fair wind hard from the N. E. I saw great numbers
of Elk & white tale deer, some beaver, antelope mule deer &
wolves & one bear on this little river marked my name in a
tree N. side near the ridge where the little river brakes thro'

[Lewis:]

Thursday June 6th 1805.

I now became well convinced that this branch of the
Missouri had it's direction too much to the North for our rout
to the Pacific, and therefore determined to return the next day
after taking an observation of the ☉'s. Meridian Altitude in
order to fix the latitude of the place. The forepart of the last
evening was fair but in the latter part of the night clouded up
and cont[i]nued so with short intervals of sunshine untill a
little before noon when the whole horizon was overcast, and I
of course disappointed in making the observation which I much
wished. I had sent Sergt. Pryor and Windsor early this morning
with orders to procede up the river to some commanding
eminence and take it's bearing as far as possible. in the mean
time the four others and myself were busily engaged in making
two rafts on which we purposed descending the river; we had
just completed this work when Sergt. Pryor and Windsor returned,
it being about noon; they reported that they had
proceded from hence S 70. W 6 M. to the summit of a commanding
eminence from whence the river on their left was
about 2 1/2 miles distant; that a point of it's Lard. bluff, which

was visible boar S 80. W. distant about 15 Ms.; that the river
on their left bent gradually arround to this point, and from
thence seemed to run Northwardly. we now took dinner
and embarcked with our plunder and five Elk's skins on the
rafts but were soon convinced that this mode of navigation
was hazerdous particularly with those rafts they being too
small and slender. we wet a part of our baggage and were
near loosing one of our guns; I therefore determined to
abandon the rafts and return as we had come, by land. I
regretted much being obliged to leave my Elk's skins, which
I wanted to assist in forming my leather boat; those we had
prepared at Fort Mandan being injured in such manner that
they would not answer. we again swung our packs and took
our way through the open plains for about 12 Mls. when we
struck the river; the wind blew a storm from N. E. accompanyed
by frequent showers of rain; we were wet and very
could. continued our rout down the river only a few miles
before the abbruptness of the clifts and their near approach to
the river compelled us take the plains and once more face
the storm; here we boar reather too much to the North and
it was late in the evening before we reached the river, in our
way we killed two buffaloe and took with us as much of the
flesh as served us that night, and a part of the next day. we
encamped a little below the entrance of the large dry Creek
called Lark C. having traveled about 23 Mls. since noon. it continues
to rain and we have no shelter an uncomfortable nights
rest is the natural consequence.

[Clark:]

June 6th.. Thursday 1805

a cloudy cold raw day wind hard from the N.E. we set
out early & traveled down the little river which was imedeately
in our course on this river we killed 7 Deer for their Skins
the bottoms of this little river is in everry respect (except in
extent) like the large bottoms of the Missouri below the forks
containing a great perpotion of a kind of cotton wood with a
leaf resembling a wild Cherry. I also observed wind [wild]
Tanzey on this little river in great quantities, we halted at

12 oClock and eate a part of a fat Buck, after Dinner we assended
the Plain at which time it began to rain and continued
all day, at 5 oClock we arrived at our camp on the point,
where I expected to meet Capt Lewis he did not return this
evening. My self and party much fatigued haveing walked
constantly as hard as we could march over a Dry hard plain,
decending & assending the steep river hills & gullies, in my
absence the party had killed an Elk & 2 buffalow, I sent out
for the meat a part of which was brought in. nothing remarkable
had transpired at camp in my absence

[Lewis:]

Friday June 7th 1805.—

It continued to rain almost without intermission last night
and as I expected we had a most disagreable and wrestless night.
our camp possessing no allurements, we left our watery beads
at an early hour and continued our rout down the river. it
still continues to rain the wind hard from N. E. and could. the
grownd remarkably slipry, insomuch that we were unable to
walk on the sides of the bluffs where we had passed as we ascended
the river. notwithstanding the rain that has now fallen
the earth of these bluffs is not wet to a greater debth than 2
inches; in it's present state it is precisely like walking over
frozan grownd which is thawed to small debth and slips equally
as bad. this clay not only appears to require more water to
saturate it as I before observed than any earth I ever observed
but when saturated it appears on the other hand to yeald it's
moisture with equal difficulty. In passing along the face of
one of these bluffs today I sliped at a narrow pass of about
30 yards in length and but for a quick and fortunate recovery
by means of my espontoon I should been precipitated into
the river down a craggy pricipice of about ninety feet. I had
scarcely reached a place on which I could stand with tolerable
safety even with the assistance of my espontoon before I heard
a voice behind me cry out god god Capt. what shall I do on
turning about I found it was Windsor who had sliped and
fallen ab[o]ut the center of this narrow pass and was lying
prostrate on his belley, with his wright hand arm and leg over

the precipice while he was holding on with the left arm and
foot as well as he could which appeared to be with much difficulty.
I discovered his danger and the trepedation which he
was in gave me still further concern for I expected every instant
to see him loose his strength and slip off; altho' much
allarmed at his situation I disguised my feelings and spoke
very calmly to him and assured him that he was in no kind of
danger, to take the knife out of his belt behind him with his
wright hand and dig a hole with it in the face of the bank to
receive his wright foot which he did and then raised himself
to his knees; I then directed him to take off his mockersons
and to come forward on his hands and knees holding the knife
in one hand and the gun in the other this he happily effected
and escaped. those who were some little distance b[e]hind.
returned by my orders and waded the river at the foot of the
bluff where the water was breast deep. it was useless we knew
to attempt the plains on this part of the river in consequence
of the numerous steep ravines which intersected and which
were quite as bad as the river bluffs. we therefore continued
our rout down the river sometimes in the mud and water of
the bottom lands, at others in the river to our breasts and when
the water became so deep that we could not wade we cut footsteps
in the face of the steep bluffs with our knives and proceded.
we continued our disagreeable march th[r]ough the rain
mud and water untill late in the evening having traveled only
about 18 Miles, and encamped in an old Indian stick lodge
which afforded us a dry and comfortable shelter. during the
day we had killed six deer some of them in very good order
altho' none of them had yet entirely discarded their winter
coats. we had reserved and brought with us a good supply
of the best peices; we roasted and eat a hearty supper of our
venison not having taisted a mo[r]sel before during the day;
I now laid myself down on some willow boughs to a comfortable
nights rest, and felt indeed as if I was fully repaid for the
toil and pain of the day, so much will a good shelter, a dry
bed, and comfortable supper revive the sperits of the w[e]aryed,
wet and hungry traveler.

[Clark:]

June 7th.. Friday 1805

rained moderately all the last night and continues this morning,
the wind from the S.W. off the mountains, The Thermometer
stood at 40°. above o, I allow several men to hunt a
short time to day, the rain continue moderately all day the
bottom verry muddey 2 buffalow an Elk & Deer killed to
day Capt. Lewis not returned yet. river falling