University of Virginia Library

Monday June 3rd. 1805.

This morning early we passed over and formed a camp on
the point formed by the junction of the two large rivers. here
in the course of the day I continued my observations as are
above stated. An interesting question was now to be determined;
which of these rivers was the Missouri, or that river

which the Minnetares call Amahte Arz-zha or Missouri, and
which they had discribed to us as approaching very near to
the Columbia river. to mistake the stream at this period of
the season, two months of the traveling season having now
elapsed, and to ascend such stream to the rocky Mountain
or perhaps much further before we could inform ourselves
whether it did approach the Columbia or not, and then be
obliged to return and take the other stream would not only
loose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten
the party that it might defeat the expedition altogether.
convinced we were that the utmost circumspection and caution
was necessary in deciding on the stream to be taken. to this
end an investigation of both streams was the first thing to be
done; to learn their widths, debths, comparitive rappidity of
their courants and thence the comparitive bodies of water
furnished by each; accordingly we dispatched two light canoes
with three men in each up those streams; we also sent out
several small parties by land with instructions to penetrate
the country as far as they conveniently can permitting themselves
time to return this evening and indeavour if possible
to discover the distant bearing of those rivers by ascending
the rising grounds. between the time of my A. M. and
meridian Capt. C. & myself stroled out to the top of the
hights in the fork of these rivers from whence we had an
extensive and most inchanting view; the country in every
derection around us was one vast plain in which innumerable
herds of Buffalow were seen attended by their shepperds the
wolves; the solatary antelope which now had their young
were distributed over it's face; some herds of Elk were also
seen; the verdure perfectly cloathed the ground, the weather
was pleasent and fair; to the South we saw a range of lofty
mountains which we supposed to be a continuation of the
S. Mountains, streching themselves from S. E. to N. W.
terminating abbrubtly about S. West from us; these were
partially covered with snow; behind these Mountains and
at a great distance, a second and more lofty range of mountains
appeared to strech across the country in the same direction
with the others, reaching from West, to the N of N. W.,
where their snowey tops lost themselves beneath the horizon.
this last range was perfectly covered with snow. the direction
of the rivers could be seen but little way, soon loosing the
break of their channels, to our view, in the common plain.
on our return to camp we boar a little to the left and discovered
a handsome little river falling into the N. fork on
Lard. side about 1 1/2 above our camp. this little river has
as much timber in it's bottoms as either of the larger streams.
there are a great number of prickley pears in these plains;
the Choke cherry grows here in abundance both in the river
bottoms and in the steep ravenes along the river bluffs. saw
the yellow and red courants, not yet ripe; also the goosberry
which begins to ripen; the wild rose which grows here in
great abundance in the bottoms of all these rivers is now in
full bloom, and adds not a little to the bea[u]ty of the
cenery. we took the width of the two rivers, found the left
hand or S. fork 372 yards and the N. fork 200. The no[r]th
fork is deeper than the other but it's courant not so swift;
it's waters run in the same boiling and roling manner which
has uniformly characterized the Missouri throughout it's
whole course so far; it's waters are of a whitish brown colour
very thick and terbid, also characteristic of the Missouri;
while the South fork is perfectly transparent runds very rappid
but with a smoth unriffled surface it's bottom composed of
round and flat smooth stones like most rivers issuing from
a mountainous country. the bed of the N. fork composed
of some gravel but principally mud; in short the air & character
of this river is so precisely that of the missouri below
that the party with very few exceptions have already pronounced
the N. fork to be the Missouri; myself and Capt. C.
not quite so precipitate have not yet decided but if we were
to give our opinions I believe we should be in the minority,
certain it is that the North fork gives the colouring matter
and character which is retained from hence to the gulph of
Mexico. I am confident that this river rises in and passes a
great distance through an open plain country. I expect that
it has some of it's sou[r]ces on the Eastern side of the rocky
mountain South of the Saskashawan, but that it dose not
penetrate the first range of these Mountains. and that much
the greater part of it's sources are in a northwardly direction
towards the lower and middle parts of the Saskashawan in
the open plains. convinced I am that if it penetrated the
Rocky Mountains to any great distance it's waters would be
clearer unless it should run an immence distance indeed after
leaving those mountains through these level plains in order
to acquire it's turbid hue. what astonishes us a little is that
the Indians who appeared to be so well acquainted with the
geography of this country should not have mentioned this
river on wright hand if it be not the Missouri; the river that
scolds at all others, as they call it if there is in reallity such an
one, ought agreeably to their account, to have fallen in a
considerable distance below, and on the other hand if this
right hand or N. fork be the Missouri I am equally astonished
at their not mentioning the S. fork which they must have
passed in order to get to those large falls which they mention
on the Missouri. thus have our cogitating faculties been
busily employed all day.

Those who have remained at camp today have been busily
engaged in dressing skins for cloathing, notwithstanding that
many of them have their feet so mangled and bruised with
the stones and rough ground over which they passed barefoot,
that they can scarcely walk or stand; at least it is with great
pain they do either. for some days past they were unable
to wear their mockersons; they have fallen off considerably,
but notwithstanding the difficulties past, or those which seem
now to mennace us, they still remain perfectly cheerfull. In
the evening the parties whom we had sent out returned
agreeably to instructions. The parties who had been sent
up the rivers in canoes informed that they ascended some
distance and had then left their canoes and walked up the
rivers a considerable distance further barely leaving themselves
time to return; the North fork was not so rappid as
the other and afforded the easiest navigation of course; six
(7) feet appeared to be the shallowest water of the S. Branch
and 5 feet that of the N. Their accounts were by no means
satisfactory nor did the information we acquired bring us

nigher to the decision of our question or determine us which
stream to take. Sergt. Pryor hand [had] ascended the N. fork
and had taken the following courses and distances viz—

       

S. 60°. W.	2	Mis. to some timber on the Lard. side
West—	2.	to a point on the Stard. side, passing the entrance of a river at 1/2 M. on Lard. side which was 60 yards wide and three feet deep boatd court.
N. 50° W	3.	to a point on lard. side
S. 80°. W.	3.	to a point on Lard. side. thence the river bares to the N of West leaving a high hill to the Stard.

Sergt. Gass ascended the South fork and took the following
courses (viz.)

           

S. 30. W.	1.	M1. to a point Lard. passing three Islands.
South—	1.	to the Lard. point of an Island.
S. 60°. E.	2.	to a tree on the Stard. side
N. 50°. E	1.	to on object in a bank Lard. side opst. to the lower point of an Island.
S. 70. E	1 1/2	to a tree on the Lard. side passing an Island
S. 10°. E	1.	M. thence the general course S. 30 W. 5 Mls. or as far as he could discover the direction of the river.

Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had been up
the South fork about 7 Mls. on a streight course somewhat N
of W. and that there the little river which discharges itself
into the North fork just above us, was within 100 yards of the
S. fork; that they came down this little river and found it a
boald runing stream of about 40 yds. wide contai[n] ng much
timber in it's bottom, consisting of the narrow and wide leafed
cottonwood with some birch and box alder undrgrowth willows
rosebushes currents &c. they saw a great number of Elk on
this river and some beaver. Those accounts being by no
means satisfactory as to the fundamental point; Capt. C. and
myself concluded to set out early the next morning with a
small party each, and ascend these rivers untill we could perfectly
satisfy ourselves of the one, which it would be most expedient
for us to take on our main journey to the Pacific.
accordingly it was agreed that I should ascend the right hand

fork and he the left. I gave orders to Serjt. Pryor Drewyer,
Shields, Windsor, Cruzatte and La Page to hold themselves in
readiness to accompany me in the morning. Capt. Clark also
selected Reubin & Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass, Shannon and his
black man York, to accompany him. we agreed to go up those
rivers one day and a halfs march or further if it should appear
necessary to satisfy us more fully of the point in question. the
hunters killed 2 Buffaloe, 6 Elk and 4 deer today. the evening
proved cloudy. we took a drink of grog this evening and
gave the men a dram, and made all matters ready for an early
departure in the morning. I had now my sack and blanket
happerst[17] in readiness to swing on my back, which is the first
time in my life that I had ever prepared a burthen of this kind,
and I am fully convinced that it will not be the last. I take
my Octant with me also, this I confide [to] La Page.