University of Virginia Library

[Clark, first draft:]

November 7th. Thursday 1805.

a cloudy fogey morning, a little rain. Set out at 8 oClock
proceeded on

         
N. 82°. W.  2 ½  miles on the Sta Side under a high hill steep assent 
N. 45°. W.  1 ½  miles and the high land on the Stard. Side steep assent 
N. 60° W.  mile on the Std. Side high hills a thick fog can't see
across the River opposit the lower pt. of an Isd
West  miles on the Stard Side under a hill high and rockey 
N W.  mile to the head of an Island close under the Stard
Side, sep. by a narrow chanel. 2 canoes of Indians
met us, and return with us, a Island in the middle
of the river, we followed those Inds. on the North
Side of the Island thro' a narrow chanel to their
village on the Stard. Side of 4 houses, they gave
us fish to eate and sold us fish salmon trout, some
Wap-to roots and 3 Dogs, the language of those
people have a similarrity with those above.
 

The women ware a kind of s[t]rand made of the cedar bark
but soft in place of a tite pice of leather as worn by the women
above. the men have nothing except a robe about them, they
are badly made and use but fiew ornements. The womens
peticoat is about 15 Inches long made of arber-vita or the
white Cedar bark wove to a string and hanging down in tossles
and [t]ied so as to cover from their hips as low as the peticoat
will reach and only covers them when standing, as in any other


207

Page 207
position the Tosels seperate. Those people sold us otter skins
for fish hooks of which they were fond.

We delayed 1 ½ hours & set out the tide being in & the
river so cut with Islands we got an Indian to pilot us into the
main chanel. one of our canoes seperated from us this morning
in the fog great numbers of water fowls of every description
common to this river

         
N. 10°. W.  15  miles to a white tree in a Stard. bend under a high hill
passed several marshey Isld. on the Stard. Side opposit to
which & on the Stard. Side is a village of 4 houses.
passed several marshey Islands on the Lard. Sd. an Indian
village on one of those Islands. they came and
traded 2 beaver skins for fishing hooks, and a fiew
Wapto roots. The river verry wide. The beaver skins
I wish for to make a robe as the one I have is worn
out. to an old village of 7 houses under the hill Stard.
Side. Several slashey Isld. on Star Side, we called
and bought a Dog & some fish.
 
S W.  miles to a point of high land on the Stard. Side passed a
small Island on Stard. Side the head of a large low
marshy Island on the middle river about from 5 to 7
miles wide
 
S. 62°. W.  miles to a Point Stard. Side a Deep bend to the Stard Side
under a high mountain. pine
 
S. 70°. W  miles to a point on the Stard. Side high mountains some
high mountains on the Lard Side off the river. We
encamped on the Stard Side under a high hill steep and
mountainous we with dificulty found leavel rocks
 
34  sufficent to lie on, Three Indians followed us they
could speake a little English, they were detected in stealing
a knife & returned late to their village. The rain
continued untill 9 oClock moderately. We are in view
of the opening of the Ocian, which creates great joy.[21]
a remarkable rock of about 50 feet high and about 20
feet Diameter is situated opposit our Camp about ½ a
mile from shore several marshey Islands towards the
Lard Side the shape of them I can't see as the river is
wide and day foggy 

 
[21]

In the Courses and Distances given in Codex H, pp. 132–148, Clark writes,
"Ocian in view! O! the joy."—Ed.


208

Page 208

November 7th. Thursday 1805

A cloudy foggey morning Some rain. we Set out early
proceeded under the Stard. Side under a high rugid hills with
Steep assent the Shore boalt and rockey, the fog so thick we
could not See across the river, two cano[e]s of Indians met
and returned with us to their village which is Situated on the
Stard. Side behind a cluster of Marshey Islands, on a narrow
chan.1 of the river through which we passed to the village of 4
Houses, they gave us to eate Some fish, and Sold us, fish,
Wap pa to roots three dogs and 2 otter skins for which we gave
fish hooks principally of which they were verry fond.

Those people call themselves War-ci-â-cum (War-ki-a-cum)[22]
and Speake a language different from the nativs above with
whome they trade for the Wapato roots of which they make
great use of as food. their houses differently built, raised
entirely above ground eaves about 5 feet from the ground
Supported and covered in the same way of those above, dores
about the Same size but in the Side of the house in one corner,
one fire place and that near the opposit end, around which they
have their beads raised about 4 feet from the flore which is of
earth, under their beads they Store away baskets of dried fish
Berries & Wappato, over the fire they hang the fiesh as they
take them and [of] which they do not make immediate use.
Their Canoes are of the Same form of those above. The
Dress of the men differ verry little from those above, The
womin altogether different, their robes are Smaller only covering
their Sholders & falling down to near the hip. and
Sometims when it is cold a piec of fur curiously plated[23] and
connected so as to meet around the body from the arms to the
hips. "The garment which occupies the Waist and thence as
low as the knee before and mid leg behind, cannot properly be
called a petticoat, in the common accep[ta]tion of the word; it
is a Tissue formed of white cedar bark bruised or broken into
Small Strans, which are interwoven in their center by means
of Several cords of the same Materials which Serves as well for


209

Page 209
a girdle as to hold in place the Strans of bark which forms the
tissue, and which Strans, confined in the middle, hang with
their ends pendulous from the waist, the whole being of Suff[i]
cent thickness when the female Stands erect to conceal those
parts useally covered from familiar view, but when she stoops
or places herself in any other attitude this battery of Venus is
not altogether impervious to the penetrating eye of the amorite.
This tissue is Sometims formed of little Strings of the Silk
grass twisted and knoted at their ends" &c. [Those Indians
are how and ill Shaped all flat heads
]

after delaying at this village one hour and a half we Set out
piloted by an Indian dressed in a Salors dress, to the Main
Chanel of the river, the tide being in we should have found
much dificuelty in passing into the main Chanel from behind
those islands, without a pilot, a large marshey Island near the
middle of the river[24] near which several Canoes came allong
Side with Skins, roots fish &c. to Sell, and had a temporey
residence on this Island, here we see great numbers of water
fowls about those Marshey Islands; here the high mountanious
Countrey approaches the river on the Lard Side, a high
Mountn. to the S. W. about 20 miles, the high mountans.
countrey continue on the Stard. Side, about 14 miles below
the last village and 18 miles of this day we landed at a village
of the same nation. This village is at the foot of the high
hills on the Stard. Side back of 2 small Islands it contains 7
indifferent houses built in the same form of those above, here
we purchased a Dog some fish, wap pa to, roots and I purchased
2 beaver Skins for the purpose of makeing me a roab, as the
robe I have is rotten and good for nothing, opposit to this
village the high mountaneous countrey leave[s] the river on
the Lard. Side below which the river widens into a kind of Bay
& is crouded with low Islands Subject to be covered by the
tides. We proceeded on about 12 miles below the Village
under a high mountaneous Countrey on the Stard. Side, Shore
boald and rockey and Encamped under a high hill on the


210

Page 210
Stard. Side opposit to a rock[25] Situated half a mile from the
shore, about 50 feet high and 20 feet Deamieter; we with
dificuelty found a place clear of the tide and Sufficiently large
to lie on and the only place we could get was on round stones
on which we lay our mats rain continud. moderately all day &
Two Indians accompanied us from the last village, they we
detected in Stealing a knife and returned, our Small Canoe
which got Seperated in the fog this morning joined us this
evening from a large Island situated nearest the Lard Side
below the high hills on that Side, the river being too wide to
See either the form Shape or Size of the Islands on the Lard
Side.

Great joy in camp we are m view of the Ocian,[26] (in the
morning when fog cleared off just below last village (first on leaving
this, village) of Warkiacum)
this great Pacific Octean which we
been so long anxious to See. and the roreing or noise made by
the waves brakeing on the rockey Shores (as I suppose) may
be heard disti[n]ctly

We made 34 miles to day as computed.

 
[22]

A Chinookan tribe, apparently now extinct.—Ed.

[23]

Made out of small skins cut into thongs, and wove somewhat like carpeting.
Gass (p. 232).

[24]

Now Tenasillihee Island. The high mountain to the southwest was Saddle
Mountain, a prominent landmark.—Ed.

[25]

This is the present Pillar Rock.—Ed.

[26]

The ocean could not possibly be seen from this point, although during a storm the
breakers might be heard. The explorers probably mistook the great bay of the river,
which just below this point widens to fifteen miles, for the expanse of the ocean.—Ed.