University of Virginia Library

Chapter XXI

AT FORT CLATSOP

XXI. Clark's Journal, November 22, 1805–January 6, 1806
Lewis's Journal, November 29–December 1, 1805, and January 1–6, 1806
Orderly Book, January 1, 1806.

[Clark, first draft:]

Novr. 22nd.. Friday 1805.

SOME little rain all the last night with wind, before day
the wind increased to a storm from the S.S.E. and blew
with violence throwing the water of the river with emence
waves out of its banks almost over whelming us in water, O!
how horriable is the day. This storm continued all day with
equal violence accompanied with rain, several Indians about
us, nothing killed the waves & brakers flew over our camp,
one canoe split by the Tossing of those waves we are all confined
to our Camp and wet. purchased some Wap to roots for
which was given brass arm ban[d]s & rings of which the squars
were fond. we find the Indians easy ruled and kept in order
by a stricter indifference towards them

Friday November 22nd. 1805.

a moderate rain all the last night with wind, a little before
Day light the wind which was from the S.S.E. blew with Such
Violence that we wer almost overwhelmned with water blown
from the river, this Storm did not sease at day but blew with
nearly equal violence throughout the whole day accompan[i]ed
with rain. O! how horriable is the day waves brakeing with
great violence against the Shore throwing the Water into our
Camp &c. all wet and confind to our Shelters, Several Indian
men and women crouding about the mens shelters to day,
we purchased a fiew Wappato roots for which we gave Armban[d]s,

& rings to the old Squar, those roots are equal to
the Irish potato, and is a tolerable substitute for bread

The threat which I made to the men of this nation whome I
first Saw, and an indifference towards them, is: I am fulley convinced
the cause of their conducting themselves with great propriety
towards ourselves & Party.

[Clark, first draft:]

November 23rd.. Saturday 1805.

The [day] cloudy and calm, a moderate rain the greater
part of the last night, sent out men to hunt this morning and
they killed 3 Bucks rained at intervales all day. I marked
my name the Day of the Month & year on a Beech tree & (By
Land) Capt Lewis Branded his and the men all marked their
nams on trees about the camp. one Indian came up from
their village on some lakes near Haleys bay. In the Evening
7 Indians of the Clatt-sopp nation, opposit came over, they
brought with them 2 Sea orter skins, for which the[y] asked
such high prices we were uneabled to purchase, with [out] reduceing
our small stock of merchindize on which we have to
depend in part for a subsistance on our return home, kiled 4
brant & 3 Ducks to day

Saturday November 22 [3]rd. 1805.

A calm Cloudy morning, a moderate rain the greater part
of the last night, Capt. Lewis Branded a tree with his name
Date &c. I marked my name the Day & year on a alder
tree, the party all Cut the first letters of their names on different
trees in the bottom. our hunters killed 3 Bucks, 4 Brant
& 3 Ducks to day.

in the evening Seven indians of the Clot sop Nation came
over in a Canoe, they brought with them 2 Sea otter Skins for
which they asked blue beads &c. and Such high pricies that we
were unable to purchase them without reducing our Small
Stock of Merchendize, on which we depended for Subcistance
on our return up this river. mearly to try the Indian who

had one of those Skins, I offered him my Watch, handkerchief
a bunch of red beads and a dollar of the American coin, all of
which he refused and demanded "tl-â-co-mo-shack"[1] which is
Chief beads and the most common blue beads, but fiew of which
we have at this time

This nation is the remains of a large nation destroyed by the
Small pox or Some other [disease] which those people were
not acquainted with, they Speak the Same language of the
Chinnooks and resemble them in every respect except that of
Stealing, which we have not cought them at as yet.

[Clark, first draft:]

November 24th Sunday 1805.

a fare morning. sent out 6 hunters and Detained to make
the following observations i. e.

Took time dis. & azomith of the Sun A M.

         

Time	Diste.	azmth.
h. m. s.
8 33 20	22° 16′ 30″	S 64°. E.
8 37 48	23 19 45	S 63°. E.
8 41 35	24 13 0	S 62° E

Equal altitudes with Sextant

       

H. m s	h m s
A.M. 8 53 5.5	P.M.
" 55 33	(lost)
" 58 3

Altitude produced [blank space in MS.]

observed Time & Distance of Sun & Moons nearest Limbs Sun
West P M

                       

Time	distance
h. m. s.
2 42 11	40° 32′ 45″
" 43 38	40 33 15
" 44 53	" 33 30
" 46 9	" 34 15
" 47 29	" 34 30
" 48 53	" 34 45
" 51 29	" 35 15
" 52 50	" 35 30
" 54 00	" 36 00
" 55 38	" 36 15

Several of the Chennook N. came, one of them brought an
Sea otter skin for which we gave some blue Beeds. This day
proved to be fair and we dried our wet articles bedding &c. The
hunters killed only 1 brant no Deer or any thing else

Observed time and Distance of Moons [blank space in MS.] Limb
an a pegasi Star East *P. M.

             

Time	distance
h m s
6 16 46	67° 56′ 30″
" 19 29	" 54 15
" 25 39	" 50 45
" 28 20	" 50 15
" 31 53	" 48 30

The old chief of Chinn-nook nation and several men &
women came to our camp this evening & smoked the pipe

[A vote of the men, as to location of winter quarters.—Ed.][2]

           

Sergt J. Ordway	cross & examine	S
Serjt. N. Pryor	d° d°	S
Sgt. P. Gass	d° d°	S
Jo. Shields	proceed to Sandy R
G. Shannon	examn. cross	falls
T. P. Howard	d° d°	falls

                                                 

P. Wiser	d° d°	S.R.
J. Collins	d° d°	S. R
Jo. Fields	d° d°	up
Al. Willard	d° d°	up
R. Willard	d° d°	up
J. Potts	d° d°	falls
R. Frasure	d° d°	up
Wm. Bratten	d° d°	up
R. Fields	d° d°	falls
J: B: Thompson	d° d°	up
J. Colter	d° d°	up
H. Hall	d° d°	S. R.
Labeech	d° d°	S. R.
Peter Crusatte	d° d°	S R
J. P. Depage	d° d°	up
Shabono	—	—
S. Guterich	d° d°	falls
W. Werner	d° d°	up
Go: Gibson	d° d°	up
Jos. Whitehouse	d° d°	up
Geo Drewyer	Exam other side	falls
Mc. Neal	d° d°	up
York	"  "	lookout
falls	Sandy River	lookout up
5	10	12

Janey [Sacajawea?—Ed.] in favour of a place where there is plenty
of Potas.

Cp. L & F Proceed on to morrow & examine The other side if
good hunting to winter there, as salt is an objt. if not to proceed on to
Sandy it is probable that a vestle will come in this winter, & that by
proceeding on at any distance would not inhance our journey in passing
the Rockey Mountains, &c.

W C. In favour of proceding on without delay to the opposit shore
& there examine, and find out both the disposition of the Indians, &
probibilaty of precureing subsistance, and also enquire if the Tradeing
vestles will arrive before the time we should depart in the spring, and if
the Traders, comonly arive in a seasonable time, and we can subsist
without a depends. on our stores of goods, to continue as the climent
would be more favourable on the Sea Coast for our naked men than

higher up the countrey where the climate must be more severe. The
advantage of the arival of a vestle from whome we can precure goods
will be more than an over ballance, for the bad liveing we shall have in
liveing on Pore deer & Elk we may get in this neighbourhood.[3] If we
cannot subsist on the above terms to proceed on, and make station
camps, to neighbourhood of the Frendly village near the long narrows &
delay untill we can proceed up the river. Salt water I view as an evil
in as much as it is not helthy. I am also of opinion that one two or
three weeks Exemination on the oppo[site] side if the propects are any
wise favourable, would not be too long

Variation of the Compass is 16′ East

Sunday November 24th. 1805.

A fair morning Sent out 6 hunters, and we proceeded to
make the following observations[4] a Chief and Several men of
the Chinnook nation came to Smoke with us this evening one
of the men brought a Small Sea otter Skin for Which we gave
Some blue beads. this day proved fair Which gave us an
oppertunity of drying our wet articles, bedding &c. &c. nothing
killed to day except one Brant, the variation of the Compass
is 16°. East.

being now determined to go into Winter quarters as soon as
possible, as a convenient Situation to precure the Wild animals
of the forest which must be our dependance for Subsisting this
Winter, we have every reason to believe that the Nativs have
not provisions Suffi[ci]ent for our consumption, and if they had,
their prices are So high that it would take ten times as much to
purchase their roots & Dried fish as we have in our possesion,
encluding our Small remains of Merchindize and Clothes &c.
This certinly enduces every individual of the party to make
diligient enquiries of the nativs [for] the part of the Countrey
in which the Wild animals are most plenty. They generaly
agree that the Most Elk is on the Opposit Shore, and that the

greatest Numbers of Deer is up the river at Some distance
above. The Elk being an animal much larger than Deer,
easier to Kill, & better meat (in the Winter when pore) and
Skins better for the Clothes of our party: added to [this]
a convenient Situation to the Sea coast where We Could make-Salt,
and a probibility of Vessels comeing into the Mouth of
Columbia ("which the Indians inform us would return to trade
with them in 3 months") from whome we might precure a fresh
Supply of Indian trinkets to purchase provisions on our return
home: together with the Solicitations of every individual, except
one of our party induced us [to] Conclude to Cross the
river and examine the opposit Side, and if a Sufficent quantity
of Elk could probebly be precured to fix on a Situation as convenient
to the Elk & Sea Coast as we could find. added to
the above advantagies in being near the Sea Coast one most
Strikeing one occurs to me i. e, the Climate which must be from
every appearance much milder than that above the 1st. range of
Mountains, The Indians are Slightly Clothed and give an
account of but little Snow, and the weather which we have
experienced since we arrived in the neighbourhood of the Sea
coast has been verry warm, and maney of the fiew days past
disagreeably so. if this Should be the case it will most Certainly
be the best Situation of our Naked party dressed as they
are altogether in leather.

[Clark, first draft:]

November 25th. Munday 1805.

a fine day several Indians come up from below, we loaded
and set out up the river, and proceeded on to the Shallow Bay,
landed to dine, The swells too high to cross the river, agreeabley
to our wish which is to examine if game can be precured
sufficent for us to winter on that side, after dinner which was
on Drid pounded fish we proceeded on up on the North Side
to near the place of our Encampment of the 7th. Instant and
encamped after night The evening cloudy wind of to day
Generally from the E.S.E. Saw from near of [our] last campment
Mount Ranier bearing [blank space in MS.]

Monday 25th. November 1805

The Wind being high rendered it impossible for us to cross
the river from our Camp, we deturmind to proceed on up
where it was narrow, we Set out early accompanied by 7 Clâtsops
for a fiew miles, they left us and crossed the river through
emence high waves; we Dined in the Shallow Bay on Dried
pounded fish, after which we proceeded on near the North Side
of the Columbia, and encamp[ed] a little after night near our
Encampment of the 7th. instant near a rock at Some distance in
the river.[5] evening Cloudy the Winds of to day is generally
E. S. E. which was a verry favourable point for us as the highlands
kept it from us Mt. St. Hilians Can be Seen from the
Mouth of this river.

[Clark, first draft:]

November 26th Tuesday 1805.

Cloudy and some rain this morning at day light wind blew
from the E.N.E. we set out and proceeded on up on the
North Side of this great river to a rock in the river from
thence we crossed to the lower point of an [blank space in
MS.] Island passed between 2 Islands to the main shore, and
proceeded down the South Side, passed 2 Inlets & halted below
the 2d. at a Indian village of 9 large houses those Indians live
on an emenence behind a Island or a Channel of the river not
more than 300 yds wide, they live on fish & Elk and Wapto
roots, of which we bought a few at a high price they call them
selves Cat-tar-bets (description)

We proceeded on about 8 miles and Encamped in a deep
bend to the South, we had not been encamped long ere
3 Indians came in a canoe to trade the Wapto roots we had
rain all the day all wet and disagreeable a bad place to camp
all around this great bend is high land thickly timbered brushey
& almost impossible to penetrate we saw on an Island below
the village a place of deposit for the dead in canoes Great
numbers of Swan Geese Brant Ducks & Gulls in this great
bend which is crouded with low Islands covered with weeds

grass &c. and overflowed every flood tide The people of the
last village is [blank space in MS.] they ask emence prices for
what they have to sel Blue Beeds is their great trade they
are fond of clothes or blankits of Blue red or brown

We are now decending to see if a favourable place should
offer on the So Side to winter &c.

from a high Point opsd. a high Isld. down the South Side is S. 30°. W 6
mls. to a point of low land opsd. upr. pt. of Isd. passed lowr. pt. 1st Isd. marshey.
at the upr. pt. of 2 low Isd. opsd each other at 4 miles

                 

S. 12°. E 2	miles to an Indn Cat-tar-bet vilg of 9 houses passed an inlet 300 yds wide on Std. at ½ a mile
S. 60°. W 1	mile to high land on the South
S. 70°. W 1	d° to a South point Low land a low Isd. opsd. pass the former
S. 50°. W 6	miles to a high point S.
South 2	miles to a bend camped
N. 70°. W. 6	miles to a point No. 1 a deep bend to the left
S. 50°. W 8	miles to Point No. 2 passing a deep bend to the South
S. 50 W 1 ½	miles
S. 40 W 1 ½	miles to pt in Bay

From the Peninsolu to the upper point is

                 

N. 65°. E	To Point [blank space in MS.] miles across the river is N. 25°. W 4 miles
	from Pt. No. 2 to Cape Disapointmt N. 70° W.
	To point Adams is West
	To 1st Creek small above Adams S. 60 W
	To 2d Creek d° d° S. 40 W
	to 3d. d° d° d° S. 20 W.
	To Fort River is imedeately cross S 10° E°
	To the opening of the mouth of River S. 50 E
	The bay turns to the N of East & receves 2 other small Brooks

Tuesday 26th. November 1805

Cloudy and Some rain this Morning from 6 oClock. Wind
from the E.N.E. we Set out out early and crossed a Short
distance above the rock, out in the river, & between Some low
Marshey Islands to the South Side of the Columbia at a low

bottom about 3 miles below Point Samuel[6] and proceeded [on]
near the South Side leaveing the Seal Islands to our right and
a marshey bottom to the left 5 Miles to the Calt-har-mar
[Cathlahma] Village of 9 large wood houses on a handsom
elivated Situation near the foot of a Spur of the high land behind
a large low Island Seperated from the Southerly Shore
by a Chanel of a'bout 200 yards Wide, This Nation appear
to differ verry little either in language, Customs dress or appearance
from the Chinnooks & War. ci a cum live principally
on fish and pappato they have also other roots, and Some Elk
meat.

We purchased Some green fish & Wap pá to for which we
gave imoderate pricies. after dining on the fresh fish which
we purchased, we proceeded on through a Deep bend to the
South and encamped under a high hill, where we found much
difficuelty in precuring wood to burn, as it was raining hard,
as it had been the greater part of the day. Soon after we encamped
3 Indians of the last town Came in a Canoe with Wap.
pa to roots to sell to us, Some of which we purchased with
fish hooks. from the Village quite around this bend to the
West the land is high and thickly timbered with pine balsom
&c. a Short distance below the Calt har mer Village on the
island which is Opposit I observed Several Canoes Scaffold[ed]
in which [were] contained their dead, as I did not examine
this mode of depos[it]ing the dead, must refer it to a discription
hereafter.

[Clark, first draft:]

November 27th. Wednesday 1805.

Some rain all the last night & this morning at day light 3
canoes and 11 men came down with roots meat, skins &c. to
sell, they asked such high prices we were unable to purchase
any thing, and as we were about setting out, discovered that one
of those Indians had stole an ax, we serched and found it
under the roabe of one man whome we shamed verry much
we proceeded on, around Point William[7] the swells became
high and rained so hard we concluded to halt and dry our
selves, soon after our landing the wind rose from the East
and blew hard accompanied with rain, this rain obliged us to
unload & draw up our canoes, one of which was split t[w]o
feet before we got her out of the river, this place the Peninsoley
is about 50 yards and 3 miles around this point of Land.
water salt below not salt above

Wednesday 27th November 1805

Rained all the last night, and this morning it Continues
moderately. at day light 3 Canoes and 11 Indians Came from
the Village with roots mats, Skins &c. to sell, they asked such
high prices that we were unable to purchase any thing of them,
as we were about to Set out missed one of our axes which was
found under an Indians roab. I smamed (Shamed) this fellow
verry much and told them they should not proceed with us.
we proceded on between maney Small Islands passing a Small
river of [blank space in MS.] yds wide which the Indians Call
Kekemarke[8] and around a verry remarkable point which projects
about 1 ½ Miles directly towards the Shallow bay the
isthmus which joins it to the main land is not exceding 50
yards and about 4 Miles around. we call this Point William
below this point the waves became So high we were compelled
to land unload and traw [draw] up the Canoes, here we formed
a camp on the neck of Land Which joins Point William to the

main at an old indian hut.[9] The rain Continued hard ail day
we are all Wet and disagreeable. one Canoe Split before we
Got her out of the Water 2 feet. The water at our camp Salt
that above the isthmus fresh and fine—[10]

[Clark, first draft:]

November 28th.. Thursday 1805.

Wind shifted about to the S. W. and blew hard accompanied
with hard rain all last night, we are all wet bedding and
stores, haveing nothing to keep our selves or stores dry, our
Lodge nearly worn out, and the pieces of sales & tents so full
of holes & rotten that they will not keep any thing dry, we
sent out the most of the men to drive the point for deer, they
scattered through the point some stood on the pen[in]solu, we
could find no deer, several hunters attempted to penetrate the
thick woods to the main South Side without suckcess the
swan & gees wild and cannot be approached, and wind to
high to go either back or forward, and we have nothing to eate
but a little Pounded fish which we purchasd. at the Great falls,
This is our present situation! truly disagreeable. aded to this
the robes of our selves and men are all rotten from being continually
wet, and we cannot precure others, or blankets in these
places. about 12 oClock the wind shifted about to the N.W.
and blew with great violence for the remainder of the day at
maney times it blew for 15 or 20 minits with such violence
that I expected every moment to see trees taken up by the
roots, some were blown down. Those squals were suckceeded
by rain O! how Tremendious is the day. This dredfull
wind and rain continued with intervales of fair weather, the
greater part of the evening and night

Thursday 28th. November 1805

Wind shifted about to the S.W. and blew hard accompanied
with hard rain, rained all the last night we are all wet our

bedding and Stores are also wet, we haveing nothing which is
Sufficient to keep ourselves bedding or Stores dry, Several
men in the point hunting deer without suckcess, the Swan
and brant which are abundant Cannot be approached sufficently
near to be killed, and the wind and waves too high to proceed
on to the place we expect to find Elk, & we have nothing to
eate except pounded fish which we brought from the Great
falls, this is our present situation; truly disagreeable. about
12 oClock the wind shifted around to the N.W. and blew with
Such violence that I expected every moment to See trees taken
up by the roots, maney were blown down. This wind and
rain Continued with short intervales all the latter part of the
night. O! how disagreeable is our Situation dureing this
dreadfull weather.

[Lewis:]

November 29th. 1805[11]

the wind being so high the party were unable to proceed
with the perogues. I determined therefore to proceed down
the river on it's E. side in surch of an eligible place for our
winters residence and accordingly set out early this morning
in the small canoe accompanyed by 5 men. Drewyer R. Fields,
Shannon, Colter & labiesh, proceeded along the coast.

     

S. 40. W. 5	M. to a point of land[12] passing two points one at 3 M. bearing S 10. W. and the 2nd at 1 ½ further a little retreating from the 1st. land high and woods thick.
S. 35. W. 2.	Ml. along the point, land still high and thickly timbered here a deep bay commences. runing
S. 40. E. 2.	Ms. along the bay. the land more open, pass a small prarie at 1 M.

send out the hunters they killed 4. deer 2 brant a goat and
seven ducks,

it rained up on us by showers all day. left three of these
deer and took with us one encamped at an old Indian hunting
lodge which afforded us a tolerable shelter from the rain.
which continued by intervales throughout the night.

[Clark, first draft:]

November 29th.. Friday 1805.

Blew hard and rained the greater part of the last night and
this morning, Capt Lewis and 5 men set out in our small
Indian canoe (which is made in the Indian fashion calculated
to ride the waves) down the South Side of the river to the
place the Indians informed us by signs that numbers of Elk
were to be found near the river. The swells and waves being
too high for us to proceed down in our large canoes in safety.
I sent out two hunters to hunt deer, & one to hunt fowl, all
the others employed in drying their leather and prepareing it
for use, as but fiew of them have many other clothes to boste
of at this time, we are smoked verry much in this camp The
shore on the side next the sea is covered with butifull pebble
of various colours our diat at this time and for several days
past is the dried pounded fish we purchased at the falls boiled
in a little salt water.

Friday 29th. of November 1805o

The wind and rain Continued all the last night, this morning
much more moderate, the waves Still high and rain continues.
Capt. Lewis and 5 hunters Set out in our Indian Canoe
(which is calculated to ride wave[s]) dow[n] to the place we
expected to find Elk [and] from the Inds. information, the[y]
pointed to a Small Bay which is yet below us. I sent out 2
men to hunt Deer which I expected might be on the open hill
Sides below, another to hunt fowl in the deep bend above
the point, all the others engaged drying their leather before
the fire, and prepareing it for use—they haveing but fiew other
Species of Clothing to ware at this time

The winds are from Such points that we cannot form our

Camp So as to prevent the Smoke which is emencely disagreeable,
and painfull to the eyes. The Shore below the point at
our camp is formed of butifull pebble of various colours. I
observe but fiew birds of the Small kind, great numbers of wild
fowls of Various kinds, the large Buzzard with white wings,
grey and bald eagle's, large red tailed Hawks, ravens & crows
in abundance, the blue Magpie, a Small brown bird which
frequents logs & about the roots of trees,[13] Snakes, Lizards,
Small bugs, worms, Spiders, flyes & insects of different kinds
are to be Seen in abundance at this time.

[Lewis:]

November 30th. 1805.

cloudy morning set out before sun rise and continued our
rout up the bey

             

S. 60. E. 1 ½	to a point, land not very high and open little back from the bay.
S. 80. E. 3	M to the center of a bend passing a point at 1. M. land the same from the commenct. of this course.
S. 35. W. 2 ½	M across the bay to a point of marshey ground which for three miles in width borders this coast
S. 60. W. 2'	m. to a point of marshey ground
S. 50. W. ¾	M. to a marshey point at arm of the bay. from this point a point of highland bore S. 25 E. 3 miles distant
N. 80. W. 2 ½	to a marshey point passing the arm of the bey ¼ of a mile wide the country to the S. E. appears to be low for a great distance and is marshey and untimbered for three miles back, from this point, the eastern point or commencement of the bay bore N. 15 E. 3 miles.—
N. 60. W. 5	M. passing an inlet of 100 yds. wide at 4. M. to a point of marshey ground, here an inlet of from 40 to 60 yds. in width comes in just opposite to the upper point of a shore which we have heretofore thought and Island but which I am now convinced is the main land, we asscended this stream about 2 M. it's course being S. 15 E. we halted near a small cops of timbered land to which we walked and dined

Sent out three men to examin the country to the S. & W.
they returned after about 2 hours and informed me that the
wood was so thick and obstructed by marrasses & lakes that
they were unable to proceed to the Ocean which could not be
at any considerable distance f[r]om the apparent sound of the
waves breaking on the Coast. we now returned and asscended
the inlet which we had last passed no fresh appearance of Elek
or deer in our rout so far. asscend the inlet as we intended
about 1. M. found it became much smaller and that it did
not keep it's direction to the high land which boar S. 10. W.
but inclined [MS. torn] West, therefore returned to the large
arm of the bay[14] which we passed this morning, here we expect
to meet with the Clât-sop Indians, who have tantilized us with
there being much game in their neighbourhood, this information
in fact was the cause of my present resurch, for where there
is most game is for us the most eliguble winter station. continued
our rout up the large arm of the bay about 6 miles and
encamped on the Stard. side on the highland. the water was
quite sweet. therefore concluded that it must be supplyed from
a large crick, at our camp it is 120 yds. wide, tho' it gets narrower
above, it rained but little on us today tho' it was cloudy
generally. Wind from N.E. saw a great abundance of fowls,
brant, large geese, white brant sandhill Cranes, common blue
crains, cormarants, haulks, ravens, crows, gulls and a great
variety of ducks, the canvas back, duckinmallard, black and
white diver, brown duck—&c &c

[Clark, first draft:]

November 30th. Saturday 1805.

Some rain and hail with intervales of fair weather for 1 and
2 hours dureing the night and untill 9 oClock this morning at
which time it cleared up fair and the sun shown, I send 5
men in a canoe in the Deep bend above the Peninsulear to
hunt fowls, & 2 men in the thick woods to hunt Elk had all our

wet articles dried & the men all employed dressing their skins,
I observe but few birds in this countrey of the small kinds
great numbers of wild fowl, The large Buzzard with white
under their wings Grey & Bald eagle large red tailed hawk
ravins, crows, & a small brown bird which is found about logs
&c. but fiew small hawks or other smaller birds to be seen at
this time Snakes, Lizzards, Small bugs worms spiders, flies,
& insects of different kinds are to be seen in plenty at this
time. The squar gave me a piece of Bread to day made of
some flower she had cearfully kept for her child, and had unfortunately
got wet. The hunters killed only 3 hawks, saw 3
Elk but could not git a shot at them, The fowlers, killed
3 black ducks, with white sharp bills, a brown spot in their
foward, some white under the tail, which is short, and a fiew
of the tips of the wing feathers white, Their toes are long
seperated and flaped, no craw, keep in emence large flocks in
the shallow waters & feed on Grass &c. Several men complaining
of being unwell to day. a Broock comes in to the bend
above the 1st point above. and a river falls in the next nitch
above this river is small. I observe rose bushes Pine, a kind
of ash a species of Beech and a species of Maple, in addition to
the pine Lorrel and under groth common to the woods in this
Lower Countrey the hills are not high & slope to the river

Saturday 30th. of November 1805

Some rain and hail with intervales of fair weather for the
Space of one or two hours at a time dureing the night untill
9 oClock this morning, at which time it cleared away and the
Sun Shewn for [blank space in MS.] hours, Several men out
hunting I send 5 men in the bend above to hunt fowl &c.
in a Canoe, employ all the others in drying our wet articles
by the fire. Several men Complain of a looseness and griping
which I contribute to the diet, pounded fish mixed with Salt
water, I derect that in future that the party mix the pounded
fish with fresh water. The squar gave me a piece of bread
made of flour which She had reserved for her child and carefully

Kept untill this time, which has unfortunately got wet,
and a little Sour, this bread I eate with great satisfaction, it
being the only mouthful! I had tasted for Several months past.
my hunters killed three Hawks, which we found fat and delicious,
they Saw 3 Elk but could not get a Shot at them.
The fowlers killed 3 black Ducks with Sharp White beeks
Keep in large flocks & feed on Grass, they have no Craw
and their toes are seperate, Common in the U. States[15]

The Chinnooks Cath lâh mâh & others in this neighbourhood
bury their dead in their Canoes. for this purpose 4
pieces of Split timber are Set erect on end, and sunk a fiew
feet in the ground, each brace having their flat Sides opposit
to each other and sufficiently far assunder to admit the width
of the Canoe in which the dead are to be deposited; through
each of those perpindicular posts, at the hight of 6 feet a mortice
is cut, through which two bars of wood are incerted; on
those cross bars a Small canoe is placed, in which the body is
laid after beaing Carefully roled in a robe of Some dressed
Skins; a paddle is also deposited with them; a larger Canoe
is now reversed, overlaying and imbracing the Small one, and
resting with its gunnals on the cross bars; one or more large
mats of flags or rushes are then rold. around the Canoe and the
whole securely lashed with a long cord usially made of the
bark of the arbar. vita or white cedar. on the cross bars
which support the Canoes is frequently hung or laid various
articles of Clothing culinary utensils &c. we cannot understand
them Sufficiently to make any enquiries relitive to their religious
opinions, from their depositing Various articles with
their dead, [they] beleve in a State of future ixistance.

(Copy for Dr. Barton) I walked on the point and observed
rose bushes different Species of pine, a Sp[e]cies of ash, alder,
a Species of wild Crab Loral.[16] and Several Species of under
groth common to this lower part of the Columbia river. The
hills on this coast rise high and are thickly covered with lofty
pine maney of which are 10 & 12 feet through and more than
200 feet high, hills have a Steep assent.

[Lewis:]

December 1st. 1805.

Cloudy morning wind from the S.E. sent out the men to
hunt and examin the country, they soon returned all except
Drewyer and informed me that the wood was so thick it was
almost impenetrable and that there was but little appearance
of game; they had seen the track of one deer only and a few
small grey squirrels. [ILLUSTRATION]
these s[q]uirrels are
about the size of the
red squirrel of the
lakes and eastern Atlantic
States, their bellies
are of a redish
yellow, or tanners
ooze colour the tale
flat and as long as the
body eyes black and
moderately large back
and sides of a greyish
brown

the brier with a
brown bark and three
l[e]aves which putforth
at the extremety
of the twigs like the
leaves of the blackbury
brier, tho' it is a kind of shrub and rises sometimes to
the hight of 10 fe[et] the green brier yet in leaf; the ash
with a remarkable large leaf; the large black alder. the large
elder with sky blue buries. the broad leave shrub which grows
something like the quill wood but has no joints, the leaf broad
and deeply indented, the bark p[e]als and hangs on the stem
and is of a yelowish brown colour. the seven bark is also
found here as is the common low cramburry there is a wild
crab apple which the natives eat this growth differs but little
in appearance from that of the wild crab of the Atlantic States.
but the fruit consists of little oval burries which grow in clusters
at the extremities of the twigs like the black haws. the

fruit is of a brown colour, oval form and about double as large
as the black haw; the rind is smoth and tough somewhat
hard; the seed is like that of the wild crab and nearly as large;
the pulp is soft of a pale yellow coulour; and when the fruit
has been touched by the frost is not unpleasant, being an
agreeable assed. the tree which bears a red burry in clusters
of a round form and size of a red haw. the leaf like that of
the small magnolia, and bark smoth and of a brickdust red
coulour it appears to be of the evergreen kind. half after one
oclock Drewyer not yet arrived. heard him shoot 5 times just
above us and am in hopes he has fallen in with a gang of elk.

[In Clark's handwriting:] Capt. Lewis rough notes when he
left Capt. Clark near the mouth of Columbia for a few days to
examine the S.W. side.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 1st.. Sunday 1805.

Cloudy windey morning wind from the East, sent out 2
hunters in the woods, I intended to take 5 men in a canoe
and hunt the marshey Islands above, found the wind too high
& returned to partake of the dried fish, The day some what
cooler than usial, but scercely perceveable. began to rain at
sun set and continued half the night, my hunters returned
without any thing saw 2 gang of Elk a disagreeable situation,
men all employed in mending their leather clothes, socks
&c. and Dressing some Leather. The sea which is imedeately
in front roars like a repeeted roling thunder and have rored in
that way ever since our arrival in its borders which is now 24
days since we arrived in sight of the Great Western Ocian, I
cant say Pasific as since I have seen it, it has been the reverse
Elegant canoes.

Sunday December 1st. 1805.

A cloudy windey morning wind from the East, dispatched
two hunters, I deturmined to take a canoe & a fiew men and
hunt the Marshey Islands above Point William, the Wind
rose so high that I could not proceed, and returned to partake

[of] the dried fish, which is our standing friend, began to rain
hard at Sun set and Continud. My hunters returned without
any thing haveing Seen 2 parcels of elk men ail employed to
day in mending their leather Clothes, Shoes &c. and Dressing
leather.

The emence Seas and waves which breake on the rocks &
Coasts to the S.W. & N W roars like an emence fall at a distance,
and this roaring has continued ever Since our arrival in
the neighbourhood of the Sea Coast which has been 24 days
Since we arrived in Sight of the Great Western; (for I cannot
Say Pacific) Ocian as I have not Seen one pacific day Since my
arrival in its vicinity, and its waters are forming and petially
[perpetually] breake with emenc waves on the Sands and rockey
coasts, tempestous and horiable. I have no account of Capt.
Lewis Since he left me.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 2nd.. Monday 1805.

Cloudy and some little rain this morning I despatched 3
men to hunt and 2 and my servent in a canoe to a creek above
to try & catch some fish I am verry unwell the dried fish
which is my only diet does not agree with me and several of
the men complain of a lax, and weakness. I expect Capt. Lewis
will return to day with the hunters and let us know if Elk or
deer can be found sufficent for us to winter on. If he does
not come I shall move from this place to one of better prospects
for game &c. Joseph Fields come home with the marrow
bones of an Elk which he had killed 6 miles distant, I sent
out 6 men in a canoe for the meat, the evening being late they
did not return this night which proved fair moon shineing
night. This is the first Elk we have killed on this side the
rockey mounts. a great deal of Elk sign in the neighbourhood.

Monday 2nd. December 1805

Cloudy with Some rain this morning I Send out three men
to hunt & 2 & my man York in a Canoe up the Ke-ke-mar-que
Creek in serch of fish and fowl. I feel verry unwell, and have

entirely lost my appetite for the Dried pounded fish which is
in fact the cause of my disorder at present. The men are
generally complaining of a lax and gripeing. In the evening
Joseph Field came in with the Marrow bones of a elk which
he killed at 6 miles distant, this welcome news to us. I dispatched
Six men in a empty Canoe with Jo: imediately for the
elk which he Said was about 3 miles from the Water this is
the first Elk which has been killd on this Side of the rockey
mountains Jo. Fields givs me an account of a great deel of
Elk Sign & says he Saw 2 Gangs of those animals in his rout,
but it rained So hard that he could not Shoot them. The
party up the Creek returned without any thing and informs me
they could not See any fish in the Creek to kill and the fowls
were too wild to be killed, this must be owing to their being
much hunted and pursued by the Indians in their Canoes.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 3rd.. Tuesday 1805.

a fair windey morning wind from the East, the men sent
after an Elk yesterday returnd. with an Elk which revived the
sperits of my men verry much, I am unwell and cannot eate,
the flesh O! how disagreeable my situation, a plenty of meat
and incap[ab]le of eateing any. an Indian canoe came down
with 8 Indians in it from the upper village, I gave a fish hook
for a fiew Wap-e-to roots, which I eate in a little Elk supe,
The Indians proceeded on down, wind continues to blow, and
Serjt. Pryor & Gibson who went to hunt yesterday has not
returnd. as yet I marked my name & the day of the month
and year on a large Pine tree on this peninsella & by land
"Capt William Clark December 3rd. 1805. By Land. U. States
in 1804–1805" The squar Broke the two shank bones of
the Elk after the marrow was taken out, boiled them & extracted
a Pint of Greese or tallow from them. Serjt. Pryor &
Gibson returned after night and informed me they had been
lost the greater part of the time they were out, and had killed
6 Elk which they left lying haveing taken out their intrals.
Some rain this afternoon

Tuesday 3d. December 1805.

a fair windey morning wind from the East the men returned
with the Elk which revived the Spirits of my party
verry much. I am still unwell and can't eate even the flesh of
the Elk. an Indian Canoe of 8 Indians Came too, those
Inds. are on their way down to the Clât-sops with Wap pa to to
barter with that Nation, I purchasd. a fiew of those roots for
which I gave Small fish hooks, those roots I eate with a little
Elks Soupe which I found gave me great relief I found the
roots both nurishing and as a check to my disorder. The Indians
proceeded on down through emence high waves maney
times their Canoe was entirely out of Sight before they were ½
a mile distant. Serjt. Pryor & Gibson who went hunting
yesterday has not returned untill after night, they informed
me that they had killed 6 Elk at a great distance which they
left lying, haveing taken out their interals, that they had been
lost and in their ramble saw a great deel of Elk Sign. after eateing
the marrow out of two shank bones of an Elk, the Squar
choped the bones fine boiled them and extracted a pint of
Grease, which is Superior to the tallow of the animal. Some
rain this evening I marked my name on a large pine tree imediately
on the isthmus William Clark December 3rd. 1805.

By Land from the U.States in 1804 & 1805.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 4th.. Wednesday 1805.

Some little rain all the last night and this morning after day
the rain increased and continued.

I despatched Serjt. Pryer & 6 men to the Elk which he had
killed yesterday, with directions to save the meet and take
loads to the River below in the next great bend. a spring tide
which rose 2 feet higher than common flud tides, and high
water at 11 oClock to day. wind from the S.E in the after
noon hard wind from South. rained all day, moderately the
swells too high for me to proceed down, as I intended. I
feel my self something better and have an appetite to eate
something

Wednesday 4th. December 1805

Some rain all the last night, this morning it increased with
the wind from the S.E. I Se[n]t out Sergiant Pryor and 6
men to the Elk he had killed with directions to carry the meat
to a bay which he informed me was below and as he believed
at no great distance from the Elk, and I Should proceed on to
that bay as soon as the wind would lay a little and the tide
went out in the evening. the Smoke is exceedingly disagreeable
and painfull to my eyes, my appetite has returned and I feel
much better of my late complaint. a Spring tide to day rose
2 feet higher than common flood tides and high water at 11
oClock. Hard wind from the South this evening, rained
moderately all day and the waves too high for me to proceed
in Safty to the bay as I intended, in Some part of which I
expected would be convenient for us to make winter quarters,
the reports of seven hunte[r]s agreeing that elke were in great
abundance about the Bay below. no account of Capt. Lewis.
I fear Some accident has taken place in his craft or party.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 5th.. Thursday 1805.

Som hard showers of rain last night, this morn cloudy and
drisley rain, in the bay above the showers appear harder.
High water to day at 12 oClock this tide is 2 Ins. higher than
that of yesterday all our stores again wet by the hard showers
of last night Capt. Lewis's long delay below has been the cause
of no little uneasiness on my part for him, a 1000 conjectures
has crouded into my mind respecting his probable situation &
safty. rained hard. Capt Lewis returned haveing found a
good situation and Elk sufficent to winter on, his party killed
6 Elk & 5 Deer in their absence in serch of a situation and
game Rain continued all the after pt of the day accompanied
with hard wind from the S W. which prevented our moveing
from this Camp.

Thursday 5th. of December 1805

Some hard Showers of rain last night, this morning cloudy
and drisley at Some little distance above the isthmus the rain

is much harder. high water to day at 12. this tide is 2 inches
higher than that of yesterday, all our Stores and bedding are
again wet by the hard rain of last night. Capt. Lewis's long
delay below, has been the Sorce of no little uneas[i]ness on
my part of his probable Situation and Safty, the repeeted
rains[17] and hard winds which blows from the S.W. renders it
impossible for me to move with loaded Canoes along an unknown
coast we are all wet and disagreeable, the party much
better of indispositions. Capt. Lewis returned with 3 men in
the Canoe and informs me that he thinks that a Sufficient
number of Elk may be pr[o]cured convenient to a Situation
on a Small river which falls into a Small bay a Short distance
below, that his party had Killed 6 Elk & 5 Deer in his rout,
two men of his party left behind to secure the Elk.

this was verry Satisfactory information to all the party. we
accordingly deturmined to proceed on to the Situation which
Capt. Lewis had Viewed as Soon as the wind and weather should
permit and Comence building huts &c.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 6th.. Friday 1805.

Wind blew hard all the last night, and a moderate rain, the
waves verry high, This morning the wind which is still from
the S W increased and rained continued all day at Dusk wind
shifted to the North and it cleared up and became fare. High
water to day at 12 oClock & 13 Inches higher than yesterday
we were obliged to move our camp out of the water on high
grown[d] all wet.

Friday 6th. of December 1805

The wind blew hard all the last night with a moderate rain,
the waves verry high, the wind increased & from the S.W.
and the rain Continued all day, about Dark the wind Shifted
to the North cleared away and became fair weather.

The high tide of today is 13 inches higher than yesterday,
and obliged us to move our Camp which was in a low Situation,
on higher ground Smoke exceedingly disagreeable.

[ILLUSTRATION]

CLARK'S PLAN OF FORT CLATSOP

Here given, should be compared with his larger plan, under date of December 30th, post.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 7th. Saturday 1805.

Some rain from 10 to 12 last night this morning fair we
set out at 8 oClock down to the place Capt. Lewis pitched on
for winter quarters when he was down proceeded on against
the tide at the point No. 2 we met our men sent down after
meat

To point Adams is West

To pt Disapointment N. 75 W.

They informed me that they found the Elk after being lost
in the woods for one Day and part of another. the most of
the meat was spoiled, they distance was so great and uncertain
and the way bad, they brought only the skins, york was
left behind by some accident which detained us some time eer
he came up after passing round the pt. No. 2 in verry high
swells, we stopd & Dined in the commencement of a bay, after
which proceeded on around the bay to S E & assended a creek
8 miles to a high pt. & camped haveing passed arm makeing
up to our left into the countrey

(Mt. St. Helens is the mountain we mistook for Mt. Reeaneer)

receved 2 small Brooks on the East, extencive marshes at
this place of Encampment We propose to build & pass the
winter The situation is in the center of as we conceve a hunting
countrey. This day is fair except about 12 oClock at
which time some rain and a hard wind imedeately after we
passed the point from the N.E. which continued for a about
2 hours and cleared up. no meat

Saturday 7th. of December 1805.

Some rain from 10 to 12 last night, this morning fair,
have every thing put on board the Canoes and Set out to the
place Capt. Lewis had viewed and thought well Situated for
winter quarters. we proceeded on against the tide to a point
about [blank space in MS.] miles here we met Sergt. Pryor
and his party returning to the Camp we had left without
any meat, the waves verry verry high, as much as our
Canoes could bear rendered it impossible to land for the
party, we proceeded on around the point into the bay and

landed to take brackfast on 2 Deer which had been killed &
hung up, one of which we found the other had been taken
off by [s]ome wild animal probably Panthors or the Wild [cat?]
of this Countrey here all the party of Sergt. Pryors joined us
except my man York, who had stoped to rite his load and
missed his way, Sergt. Pryor informed us that he had found
the Elk, which was much further from the bay than he expected,
that they missed the way for one day and a half, & when he
found the Elk they were mostly spoiled, and they only brought
the Skins of 4 of the Elk. after brackfast I delayed about
half an hour before York Came up, and then proceeded around
this Bay which I call [have taken the liberty of calling] Meriwethers
Bay the Cristian name of Capt. Lewis who no doubt
was the 1st white man who ever Surveyed this Bay, we assended
a river which falls in on the South Side of this Bay 3
miles to the first point of high land on the West Side, the
place Capt. Lewis had viewed and formed in a thick groth of
pine about 200 yards from the river, this situation is on a
rise about 30 feet higher than the high tides leavel and thickly
Covered with lofty pine, this is certainly the most eligable
Situation for our purposes of any in its neighbourhood. Meriwethers
Bay is about 4 miles across deep & receves 2 rivers
the Kil-how-â-nah-kle and the Ne tul and Several Small Creeks.[18]
we had a hard wind from the N.E. and Some rain about 12
oClock to day which lasted 2 hours and Cleared away. From
the Point above Meriwethers Bay to Point Adams is West to
point Disapomtment is N. 75°. W. (camped on the Ne tul.)

[Clark, first draft:]

December 8th.. Sunday 1805.

a cloudy morning, I took 5 men and set out to the See to
find the nearest place & make a way to prevent our men getting
lost and find a place to make salt, steered S. 62°. W at 2
miles passed the head of a Brook runing to the right, the lands
good roleing much falling timber, lofty Pine of the Spruce kind,
& some fur, passed over a high hill & to a creek which we kept

down 1 ½ miles and left it to our right, saw fish in this creek
& Elk Bear tracks on it, passed over a ridge to a low
marshey bottom which we crossed thro water & thick brush
for ½ a mile to the commencement of a Prarie which wavers,
covered with grass & Sackay commis, at ½ crossed a marsh
200 yds wide, boggey and arrived at a creek which runs to the
right. Saw a gange of Elk on the opposit side below, rafted
the creek, with much dificulty & followed the Elk thro emence
bogs, & over 4 small knobs in the bogs about 4 miles to the
South & killed an Elk, and formed a camp, covered our selves
with the Elk skins, the left of us Bogs & a lake or pond
those bogs shake, much cramberry growing amongst the moss.
Some rain this evening we made a harty supper of the Elk &
hung up the bale.

Sunday 8th. December 1805 Fort Clatsop[19]

We haveing fixed on this Situation as the one best Calculated
for our Winter quarters I deturmin'd to go as direct a Course
as I could to the Sea Coast which we could here roar and
appeared to be at no great distance from us, my principal
object is to look out a place to make Salt, blaze the road or
rout that they men out hunting might find the direction to
the fort if they Should get lost in cloudy weather—and See
the probibility of game in that direction, for the Support of the
Men, we Shall Send to make Salt, I took with me five men
and Set out on a Course S 60 W proceeded on a dividing
ridge through lofty piney land much falling timber. passed
the heads of 2 brooks one of them had wide bottoms which
was over flown & we waded to our knees crossed 2 Slashes[20]
(Swamps) and arrived at a Creek in a open ridgey prarie
covered with Sackacomma (Sac de Commis) this Creek we
were obliged to raft, which is about 60 yards over and runs,
in a direction to Point adams, we discovered a large gange of

Elk in the open lands, and we prosued them through verry
bad Slashes and Small ponds about 3 miles, Killed one and
camped on a spot Scercely large enough to lie Clear of the
Water, it is almost incredeable to assurt the bogs which those
animals can pass through, I prosue'd this gang of Elk
through bogs which the wate of a man would Shake for ½ an
Acre, and maney places I Sunk into the Mud and water up
to my hips without finding any bottom on the trale of those
Elk. Those bogs are covered with a kind of Moss among'
which I observe an ebundance of Cramberries. in those
Slashes Small Knobs are promisquisly scattered about which
are Steep and thickly Covered with pine Common to the
Countrey & Lorel. we made a camp of the Elk skin to keep
off the rain which continued to fall, the Small Knob on which
we camped did not afford a Sufficiency of dry wood for our
fire, we collected what dry wood we could and what Sticks
we could Cut down with the Tomahawks, which made us a
tolerable fire.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 9th Monday 1805.

rained all the last night we are all wet, send 2 men in
pursute of the Elk & with the other 3 I set out with a view
to find the Ocian in our first direction, which can be at no
great Distance, I crossed 3 Slashes by wadeing to my knees
& was prevented proceeding by the 4th. which was a pond of
200 yds. we. I went around, and was stoped by a 5th. which
apd. to be a rung stream to the right. I then returned to the
raft and recrossd. & proceeded down the stream I first struck
about 2 miles & met 3 Indians, who informed me they
lived on the see cost at a short distance, I determd. to accompany
them to their vilg. & we set out crossed the stream, and
2 of the Indians took the canoe over the wavering open rich
plains for ½ a mile and we crossed the same stream which run
to the left, we then left the canoe and proceeded to the same
stream which runs to the right and empties its self into the see
here I found their vilg. 4 Lodges on the west bank of this little
river which is here 70 yards wide, crossed in a canoe & was

invited to a lodge by a young Chief was treated [with] great
Politeness, we had new mats to set on, and himself and wife
produced for us to eate, fish, Lickorish, & black roots, on neet
small mats, and cramberries & Sackacomey berries, in bowls
made of horn, supe made of a kind of bread made of berries
common to this countrey which they gave me in a neet
wooden trencher, with a Cockle shell to eate it with It began
to rain and with a tremendous storm from the S.W. which
lasted untill 10 oClock P M. when I was disposd. to go to
sleep 2 neet mats was produced & I lay on them but the flees
were so troublesom that I slept but little Those people has
2 plays which they are fond of one is with a Been which they
pass from one hand into the other, and the oponent guess on
this game the resquiset numbr of the white Beeds which is the
principal property. they other game is with round Pices of
wood much the shape of the [blank space in MS.] Backgammon
which they role thro between 2 pins.

Monday 9th. December, 1805

rained all the last night we are all wet, I directed 2 hunters
Drewyer & Shannon to go in pursute of the Elk, with the
other 3 men I determined to proceed on to the Ocian, & Set
out on a Westerley direction crossed 3 Slashes and arived at
a Creek which I could not cross as it was deep and no wood
to make a raft, I proceeded down this Creek a Short distance
and found that I was in a fork of the creek, I then returned to
(the) raft on which we had crossed the day (before), crossed
and kept down about one mile and met 3 Indians loaded with
fresh Salmon which they had Giged in the creek I crossed
yesterday in the hills, those indians made Signs that they
had a town on the Seacoast at no great distance, and envited
me to go to their town which envitation I axcepted and accompand.
them, they had a Canoe hid in the Creek which I had
just before rafted which I had not observed, we crossed in
this little Canoe just large enough to carry 3 men an[d] their
loads after Crossing 2 of the Indians took the Canoe on
theire Sholders and Carried it across to the other Creek about

¼ of a mile, we Crossed the 2d. Creek and proceeded on to the
mouth of the creek which makes a great bend above the
mouth of this Creek or to the S. is 3 houses and about 12
families of the Clatsop Nation, we crossed to those houses,
which were built on the S. exposur of the hill, Sunk into the
ground about 4 feet the walls roof & gable ends are of Split
pine boards, the dores Small with a ladder to decend to the
iner part of the house, the fires are 2 in the middle of
the house their beads ar all around raised about 2 ½ feet from
the bottom flore all covered with mats and under those beads
was Stored their bags baskets and useless mats, those people
treated me with extrodeanary friendship, one man attached
himself to me as Soon as I entered the hut, Spred down new
mats for me to Set on, gave me fish berries rutes &c. on Small
neet platters of rushes to eate which was repeated, all the Men
of the other houses came and Smoked with me Those people
appeared much Neeter in their diat than Indians are Comonly,
and frequently wash theer faces and hands. in the eve[ni]ng
an old woman presented [in] a bowl made of a light coloured
horn a kind of Surup made of Dried berries which is common
to this Countrey which the natives Call Shele wele (She-well)[21]
this Surup I though[t] was pleasent, they Gave me Cockle
Shells to eate a kind of Seuip (Soup) made of bread of the
Shele well berries Mixed with roots in which they presented in
Neet trenchers Made of wood. a flock of Brant lit in the
Creek which was 70 yds wide I took up my Small rifle and
Shot one which astonished those people verry much, they
plunged into the Creek and brought the brant on Shore. in
the evening it began to rain and Continud accompanied with
a Violent wind from the S.W. untill 10 oClock P.M. those
people have a Singular game which they are verry fond of and
is performed with Something (a piece of bone) about the Size of
a large been (bean) which they pass from, one hand into the
other with great dexterity dureing which time they Sing, and
ocasionally, hold out their hands for those who Chuse to
risque their property to guess which hand the been is in; the
individual who has the been is a banker & opposed to all in
the room, on this game they risque their beeds & other parts
of their most valuable effects. this amusement has occupied
about 3 hours of this evening, Several of the lodge in which
I am in have lost all the beeds which they had about them.
they have one other game which a man attempted to Show
me, I do not properly understand it, they make use of maney
peces about the Shape and size of Backgammon Pices (Men)
which they role (on the floor) through between two pins Stuck
up at certain distancies &c.[22] when I was Disposed to go to
Sleep the man who' had been most attentive named Cus-ka. lah
producd 2 new mats and Spred them near the fire, and derected
his wife to go to his bead which was the Signal for all to retire
which they did emediately. I had not been long on my mats
before I was attacked most Violently by the flees and they
kept up a close Siege dureing the night

[Clark, first draft:]

December 10th. 1805 Tuesday

a cloudey rainy morning those people was some what
astonished, at three shot I made with my little riffle to day,
a gangue of Brant lit in the little river, I killd. 2 of them as
they lit, and on my return saw a duck which I took the
head off of, the men plunged into the water like Spaniards
Dogs after those fowls, after eateing a brackfast which was
similar to my suppar, I attempted to purchase some fiew roots
which I offered red beeds for, they would give scercely any
thing for Beeds of that colour, I then offered small fish hooks
which they were fond of and gave me some roots for them, I
then set out on my return by the same road I had went out
accompd. by my young Chief by name Cus-ca-lar who crossed
me over the 3 Creek[s], and returned I proceeded on to my
camp thro a heavy cold rain, saw no game at the Sea Cost

near those Indins I found various kinds of shells, a kind of
Bay opsd. those people with a high pt. about 4 miles below, out
from which at some distance I saw large rocks, as the day
was cloudy I could not see distinctly found Capt Lewis with
all hands felling trees, to build with, rained nearly all day,
in my absence they men had bt. in the 6 Elk which was killed
some days past 4 men complaining of being unwell from
various causes

Tuesday 10th. December 1805

a Cloudy rainey morning verry early I rose and walked
on the Shore of the Sea coast and picked up Several curious
Shells. I saw Indians Walking up and down the beech which
I did not at first understand the cause of, one man came to
where I was and told me that he was in Serch of fish which is
frequently thrown up on Shore and left by the tide, and told
me (in English) the "Sturgion was verry good" and that the
water when it retired left fish which they eate this was Conclusive
evedance to me that this Small band depended in Some
Measure for their winters Subsistance on the fish which is
thrown on Shore and left by the tide, after amuseing my self
for about an hour on the edge of the rageing Seas I returned
to the houses, one of the Indians pointed to a flock of Brant
Sitting in the creek at Short distance below and requested me
to Shute one, I walked down with my Small rifle and killed
two at about 40 yds distance, on my return to the houses
two Small ducks Set at about 30 Steps from me the Indians
pointed at the ducks they were near together, I Shot at the
ducks and accidently Shot the head of one off, this Duck and
brant was Carried to the house and every man came around
examined the Duck looked at the gun the Size of the ball
which was 100 to the pound and Said in their own language
Clouch Musket, (English word Musket) wake, com ma-tax Musket[23]
which is, a good Musket do not under Stand this kind of
Musket &c. I entered the Same house I slept in, they

imediately Set before me their best roots, fish and Surup, I
attempted to purchase a Small Sea otter Skin for read [red]
beeds which I had in my pockets, they would not trade for
those beeds not priseing any other Colour than Blue or White,
I purchased a little of the berry bread and a fiew of their roots
for which I gave Small fish hooks, which they appeared fond
of. I then Set out on my return by the Same rout I had
Come out accompanied by Cus-ka-lah and his brother as far as
the Second [3d.] Creek, for the purpose of Setting me across,
from which place they returned, and I proceeded on through
a heavy rain to the Camp at our intended fort, Saw a bears
track & the tracks of 2 Elk in the thick woods found Capt.
Lewis with all the men out Cutting down trees for our huts
&c. in my absence the Men brought in the six Elk which
was killed Several days ago, 4 men complaining of Violent
Coalds. three Indians in a canoe came up from the Clat sop
Village yesterday and returned to day. The Sea Coast is
about 7 Miles distant Nearly West about 5 miles of the distance
through a thick wood with reveens hills and Swamps
the land, rich black moald 2 miles in a open wavering Sandy
prarie, ridge runing parrelal to the river, covered with Green
Grass.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 11th. Wednesday

rained all last night moderately, we are all employed putting
up the huts, rained at intervales all day moderately
employed in putting up cabins for our winter quarters, one
man with Tumers, one with a Strained Knee, one sick with
Disentary & Serjt. Pryor unwell from haveing his sholder out
of place

Wednesday 11th. December 1805

rained all the last night moderately we are all employed
putting up huts or Cabins for our winters quarters, Sergeant
Pryor unwell from a dislocation of his sholder, Gibson with
the disentary, Jo. Fields with biles on his legs, & Werner with
a Strained Knee. The rain Continued moderately all day.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 12th.. Thursday 1805.

Some moderate showers last night and this morning all
hands who are well employed in building cabins, despatched
2 men to get board timber, The flees so bad last night that
I made but a broken nights rest we can't get them out of
our robes & skins, which we are obliged to make use of for
bedding Some rain to day at Intervales all at work, in the
evening 2 canoes of Indians came from the 2 villages of Clotsop
below, & brought Wapitoo roots a black root they call
Si-ni-tor and a small sea orter skin all of which we purchased
for a fiew fishing hooks & some Snake Indian Tobacco. Those
Indians appeare well disposed, I made a Chief of one & gave
him a small medel, his name is Con-year we treated those
people well, they are tite Deelers, value Blu & white beeds
verry highly, and sell their roots also highly as they purchase
them from the Indians above for a high price

Thursday 12th. December 1805

All hands that are well employ'd in cutting logs and raising
our winter Cabins, detached two men to Split boards. Some
rain at intervales all last night and to day. The flees were so
troublesom last night that I made but a broken nights rest,
we find great dificuelty in getting those trouble[some] insects
out of our robes and blankets. in the evening two Canoes of
Clât Sops Visit us they brought with them Wappato, a black
Sweet root they Call Sha-na toe qua, and a Small Sea Otter
Skin, all of which we purchased for a fiew fishing hooks and
a Small Sack of Indian tobacco which was given [us] by the
Snake Inds.

Those Indians appear well disposed we gave a Medal to
the principal Chief named Con-ny-au or Com mo-wol[24] and
treated those with him with as much attention as we could.
I can readily discover that they are close deelers, & Stickle for
a verry little, never close a bargin except they think they have
the advantage Value Blue beeds highly, white they also prise

but no other Colour do they Value in the least, the Wap
pa to they Sell high, this root the[y] purchase at a high price
from the nativs above.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 13th. Friday 1805.

The Indians left us to day after brackfast, haveing sold us
2 of the robes of a small animal for which I intend makeing
a Capot, and sold Capt Lewis 2 Loucirvia Skins for the same
purpose.[25] Drewyer & Shannon returned from hunting havg.
killed 18 Elk and butchered all except 2 which they could not
get as night prevented ther finding them & they spoild. 3
Indians in a canoe came and offered us for sale Sinutor roots,
fish & 2 Sea otter skins for sale none of which we could purchase.
Some rain last night and this day at several times,
light showers, we continue building our houses of the streightest
& most butifullest logs, sent out 2 men to split timber
to cover the cabins, and I am glad to find the timber splits
butifully, and of any width.

Friday 13th. December 1805

The Clatsops leave us to day after a brackfast on Elk which
they appeared to be very fond of before they left us they
Sold me two robes of the skins of a Small animal about the
size of a cat, and to Captain Lewis 2 Cat or Loucirva Skins
for the purpose of makeing a Coat. Drewyer & Shannon returned
from hunting. haveing killed 18 Elk & left them boochered
in the woods near the right fork of the river about 6 miles
above this place. in the evining 3 Indians came in a canoe,
and offered to us for Sale roots & and 2 Sea otter Skins,
neither of which we could purchase this evening, Some Showers
of rain last night, and to day Several verry hard Showers.
we Continue to put up the Streight butifull balsom pine[26] on
our houses. and we are much pleased to find that the timber
Splits most butifully and to the width of 2 feet or more.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 14th.. Saturday 1805.

a cloudy day & rained moderately all day we finish the
log works of our building, the Indians leave us to day after
selling a small sea otter skin and a roabe, send 4 men to stay
at the Elk which is out in the woods &c.

Saturday 14th. December 1805

The Day Cloudy and rained moderately all day we finish
the log work of our building, the Indians leave us to day
after Selling a Small Sea otter skin and a roab, dispatch 4
men to the Elk out in the woods with derections to delay untill
the party goes up tomorrow. all employd in finishing
a house to put meat into. all our last Supply of Elk has
Spoiled in the repeeted rains which has been fallen ever Since
our arrival at this place, and for a long time before, Scerce
one man in camp can bost of being one day dry Since we
landed at this point, the Sick getting better, my man York
Sick with Cholick & gripeing.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 15th. Sunday 1805.

I set out with 16 men in 3 canoes for the Elk proced up
the 1st. right hand fork 4 miles & pack the meat from the woods
to the canoes from 4 mile to 3 miles distance all hands pack
not one man exempted from this labour I also pack my self
some of this meat, and cook for those out in packing Some
rain in the evening cloudy all day, the last load of meat all
the party got out of the road or Direction and did not get to
the canoe untill after night, 5 did not join to night

Sunday the 15th. December 1805

I set out early with 16 men and 3 canoes for the Elk, proceed
up the River three Miles and thence up a large Creek
from the right about 3 miles [to] the hite of the tide water
drew up the canoes and all hands went out in three different
parties and brought in to the Canoe each Man a quarter of
Elk, I sent them out for a Second load and had Some of the
first Cooked against their return, after eateing a harty diner

dispatched the party for a third and last load, about half the
men missed their way and did not get to the Canoes untill
after Dark, and Sergt. Ordway Colter, Colins Whitehouse d
Mc.Neal Staid out all night without fire and in the rain.
Cloudy all day Some rain in the evening.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 16th. Monday 1805.

rained all the last night we covered our selves as well as we
could with Elk skin, & set up the greater part of the night, all
wet I lay in the wet verry cold, the 5 men who stayed out
all night joined me this morning Cold & wet, Ordway Colter
Collens, Jo. Whitehouse J Mc. Neal, I had the two canoes
loaded with the 11 Elk which was brought to the canoes, despatched
12 men to meet me below with 2 Elk, The rain
continues, with Tremendious gusts of wind, which is Tremends.
I proceeded on and took in the 2 Elk which was brought to
the creek, & send back 7 men to carrey to the canoe & take
down to camp 3 Elk which was left in the woods, and I proceeded
on to camp thro the same chanel I had assd. The winds
violent Trees falling in every derection, whorl winds, with
gusts of rain Hail & Thunder, this kind of weather lasted all
day, Certainly one of the worst days that ever was! I found
3 Indeans with Capt Lewis in camp they had brought fish to
sell, we had a house covered with Punchens & our meat hung
up. Several men complaining of hurting themselves carry[ing]
meat, &c.

Monday 16th. December 1805

I as also the party with me experiencd a most dreadfull
night rain and wet without any couvering, indeed we Set up the
greater part of the Night, when we lay down the water soon
Came under us and obliged us to rise. the five men who
Stayed out all night joind. me this morning wet and Cold, haveing
Stayed out without fire or Shelter and the rain poreing
down upon them all night their appearance was truly distressing.
they had left all their loads near the place they Spent
the night. I dispatched 12 men for 2 Elk which was reather

MAP SHOWING LOCATION OF FORT CLATSOP,

AND TRAIL TO THE INDIAN VILLAGE

below on the opposit Side of the Creak, with directions to
meet me at the 2d. bend in the creek below, had all the meat
which had been brought in yesterday put into 2 canoes and proceeded
down to the 2d. bend where I met the 12 men with the
2 Elk, dispatchd. 6 men with one of those who Staid out last
night for the meet left in the woods & the remainder [of] an
elk at Some distance and proceeded on my Self with 3 canoes
to the fort. wind violent from the S E trees falling, rain and
hail, we with Some risque proceeded on thro the high waves
in the river, a tempestious disagreeable day.

I found 3 indians at our camp, they brought fish to Sell
which were pore & not fit for use, had the Meet house coverd
and the Meat all hung up, Several men complain of haveing
hurt themselves [with] heavy loads of meat.[27]

[Clark, first draft:]

December 17th. Tuesday 1805.

rained some last night and this morning, all hands at work
about the huts Chinking them, The 7 men left to bring in
the Elk left in the woods come with 2 the 3rd. they could
not find, as it was that left by the party that got lost night before
last

The after part of the Day fair & Cool, fore part of the Day
rain hailed & blew hard, The mountain which lies S.E. of this
is covered with snow to day we fleece all the meat and hang
it up over a small smoke The trees are hard to split for Punchens
to cover our houses &c.

Tuesday 17th. of December 1805

Some rain last night and a continuation of it this morning.
all the men at work about the houses, Some Chinking, Dobbing
Cutting out dores &c. &c. The 7 men left to bring in the
Elk arrived and informed that they could not find the meat
that the party who Stayed out all night had left. the forepart
of this day rained hailed and blew hard, the after part is fair and
cool a Mountain which is S. [blank space in MS for insertion

of degrees] °. E about 10 miles distant, has got snow on its top
which is ruged and uneavin[28]

cause a Small fire & Smoke to be made under the meat
which is hung up in Small peaces: The trees which our men
have fallen latterly Split verry badly into boards. The most
of our Stores are wet. our Leather Lodge has become So
rotten that the Smallest thing tares it into holes and it is now
Sc[a]rcely Sufficent to keep off the rain off a Spot Sufficiently
large for our bead.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 18th. Wednesday 1805.

rained and snowed alturnetely all the last night and the gusts
of snow and hail continue untill 12 oClock, cold and a dreadfull
day wind hard and unseatled, we continue at work at our
huts, the men being but thinly dressed, and no shoes causes
us to doe but little at 12 the snow & hail seased & the after
part of the day was cloudy with some rain.

Wednesday 18th. December 1805

rained and Snowed alternetly all the last night, and Spurts
of Snow and Hail Continued untill 12 oClock, which has
chilled the air which is cool and disagreeable, the wind hard
& unsettled. The men being thinly Dressed and mockersons
without Socks is the reason that but little can be done at the
Houses to day. at 12 the Hail & Snow seased, and rain Suckceeded
for the latter part of the day

[Clark, first draft:]

December 19th.. Thursday 1805.

Some rain with intervales of fair weather last night, The
morning clear and wind from S.W. I despatched Sjt. Pryer
with 8 men in 2 canoes across the bay for the boa[r]ds of an
Indian house which is abandoned, the other part of the men
continue to doe a little at the huts, the after part of the day
cloudy with hail & rain, Sgt. Pryer and party returned with 2
canoe loads of Boards, two Indians came & stayed but a short
time

Thursday 19th. December 1805.

Some rain with intervales of fair weather last night, this
morning Clear & the wind from the S.W. we dispatched Sjt.
Pryor with 8 men in 2 Canoes across Meriwethers Bay for the
boards of an old Indian house which is vacant, the residue of
the men at work at their huts. the after part of the Day cloudy
with Hail and rain, Serjt Pryor & party returned in the evening
with a load of old boards which was found to be verry indifferent
2 Indians Cam[e] and Stayed a Short time to day.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 20th. Friday 1805.

Some rain and hail last night and this morning it rained
hard untill 10 oClock, men all employd carrying Punchens
and covering cabins 4 of which we had covered, & set some to
Dobing the after part of the day cloudy and some showers
of rain 3 Indians came with Lickorish Sackacomie berries &
mats to sell, for which they asked such high prices that we did
not purchase any of them. Those people ask double & tribble
the value of everry thing they have to sell, and never take less
than the full value of any thing, they prise only Blue &
white beeds, files fish hooks and Tobacco. Tobacco and Blue
beeds principally

Friday 20th. of December 1805

Some rain and hail last night and the rained continued untill
10 oClock A.M. Men all employd in carrying punchens or
boards & covering the houses, 4 of which were covered to day,
the after part of the day cloudy with Several showers of rain
3 Indians arrive in a Canoe. they brought with them mats,
roots & Sackacome [sac à commis] berries to Sell for which they
asked Such high prices that we did not purchase any of them.
Those people ask generally double and tribble the value of
what they have to Sell, and never take less than the real value
of the article in Such things as is calculated to do them Service.
Such as Blue & white beeds, with which they trade with the
nativs above; files which they make use of to Sharpen their
tools, fish hooks of different Sises and tobacco. Tobacco and
blue beeds they do prefur to every thing.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 21st Saturday 1805.

rain as usial last night and all day to day moderately. we
continued at the cabins dobbing & shink[l]ing of them, fall
several trees which would not split into punchins the Indians
were detected in stealing a spoon & a Bone, and left us, our
sackey commy out send 2 men to gather some at the ocian
saw Elk sign

Saturday 21st. December 1805.

rained as useal all the last night, and contd. moderately all
day to day without any intermition, men employd at the
houses. one of the indians was detected Stealing a horn
Spoon, and leave (turned from) the camp. dispatched two men
to the open lands near the Ocian for Sackacome, which we
make use of to mix with our tobacco to Smoke which has an
agreeable flavour.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 22nd. Sunday 1805.

rained all the last night & to day without much intermition
we finish dobbing 4 huts which is all we have covered, the
Punchin floor & Bunks finished Drewyer go out to trap.
Sjt. J. Ordway, Gibson & my servent sick several with Biles
on them & bruses of different kinds, much of our meat
spoiled.

Sunday 22nd. December 1805.

rained continued all the last night and to day without much
intermition, men employd doeing what they can at the
houses. Drewyer set out up the Creek to Set his traps for
beaver, Sergt. Ordway, Gibson & my servent Sick, Several
men complain of biles, and bruses of differant kinds.

We discover that part of our last Supply of meat is Spoiling
from the womph [warmth] of the weather notwithstanding a
constant Smoke kept under it day and night.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 23rd.. Monday 1805.

rained without intermition all last night, and this day much
Thunder in the morning and evening with rain and some hail
to day, we are all employd about our huts have ours covered
and dobed & we move into it, 2 canoes of Indians came up
to day. I purchased 3 mats verry neetly made, 2 bags made
with Flags verry neetly made, those the Clotsops carry ther fish
in also a Panthor Skin and some Lickorish roots, for which
I gave a worn out file, 6 fish hooks & some Pounded fish
which to us was spoiled, but those people were fond of in the
evining those people left us I also gave a string of wompom
to a chief, and sent a small pice of Sinimon to a sick Indian in
the Town who had attached himself to me

Monday 23rd. December 1805

Rained without intermition all the last night and to day with
Thunder and Hail the fore and after part of this day. Capt.
Lewis and my self move into our hut to day unfinished. two
canoes with Indians of the Clâf sop nation came up to day. I
purchased 3 mats and bags all neetly made of flags and rushes,
those bags are nearly square of different sizes open on one
Side, I also purchased a panthor Skin 7 ½ feet long including
the tail, [for] all of which I gave 6 Small fish hooks, a Small
worn out file & Some pounded fish which we could not use as
it was So long wet that it was Soft and molded, the Indians
of this neighbourhood prize the pound'd fish verry highly, I
have not observed this method of Secureing fish on any other
part of the Columbian Waters then that about the Great falls.
I gave a 2d. Chief a String of wampom, and Sent a little pounded
fish to Cus-ca-lah who was Sick in the village & could not
come to see us.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 24th.. Tuesday—5

Some hard rain at different times last night, and moderately
this morning without intermition all hands employed in
carrying Punchens & finishing covering the huts, and the
greater part of the men move into them a hard rain in the
evening. Cuscalar the young Clotsop Chief came with a young

brother and 2 young squar, they gave or laid before Capt.
Lewis and my self a mat and each a large Parsel of roots,
some time after he demanded 2 files for his Present we returned
the present as we had no files to spear which displeased them
a little they then offered a woman to each which we also
declined axcepting which also displeased them. Jo Fields
finish for Capt Lewis and my self each a wide slab hued to
write on, I gave a handkerchief &c.

Tuesday 24th. December 1805.

hard rain at Different times last night and all this day without
intermition. men all employd. in finishing their huts and
moveing into them.[29]

Cuscalah the Indian who had treated me so politely when
I was at the Clâtsops Village, come up in a canoe with his
young brother & 2 Squars he laid before Capt. Lewis and my
self each a mat and a parcel of roots Some time in the evening
two files was demanded for the presents of mats and
roots, as we had no files to part with, we each returned the
present which we had received, which displeased Cuscalah a
little. He then offered a woman to each of us which we also
declined axcepting of, which displeased the whole party verry
much—the female part appeared to be highly disgusted at
our refuseing to axcept of their favours &c.

our Store of Meat entirely Spoiled, we are obliged to make
use of it as we have nothing else except a little pounded fish,
the remains of what we purchased near the Great falls of the
Columbia, and which we have ever found to be a convenient
resort, and a portable method of curing fish.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 25th.. Christmas 1805 Wednesday

Some rain at different times last night and showers of hail
with intervales of fair starr light This morning at day we
were saluted by all our party under our winders, a Shout and
a Song. after brackfast we divided our tobacco which amounted
to 2 Carrots, one half we gave to the party who used Tobacco
those who did not we gave a Handkerchief as a present, The
day proved showery all day, the Inds. left us this evening.
all our party moved into their huts. we dried some of our
wet goods. I rcved a present of a Fleeshe Hoserey [fleece
hosiery] vest draws & socks of Capt Lewis, pr. Mockersons of
Whitehouse, a small Indian basket of Guterich, & 2 Doz
weasels tales of the Squar of Shabono, & some black roots of
the Indians G. D. saw a Snake passing across the parth Our
Diner to day consisted of pore Elk boiled, spilt [spoiled] fish
& some roots, a bad Christmass diner worm day

Christmas Wednesday 25th. December 1805

at day light this morning we we[re] awoke by the discharge
of the fire arm[s] of all our party & a Selute. Shouts and a
Song which the whole party joined in under our windows, after
which they retired to their rooms were chearfull all the morning.
after brackfast we divided our Tobacco which amounted
to 12 carrots one half of which we gave to the men of the party
who used tobacco, and to those who doe not use it we make a
present of a handkerchief, The Indians leave us in the evening
all the party Snugly fixed in their huts. I recved a
pres[e]nt of Capt. L. of a fleece hosrie [hosiery] Shirt Draws
and Socks, a pr. Mockersons of Whitehouse a Small Indian
basket of Gutherich, two Dozen white weazils tails of the
Indian woman, & some black root of the Indians before their
departure. Drewyer informs me that he saw a Snake pass
across the parth to day. The day proved Showerey wet and
disagreeable.

we would have Spent this day the nativity of Christ in feasting,
had we any thing either to raise our Sperits or even gratify
our appetites, our Diner concisted of pore Elk, so much

MS. page by Clark, dated December 25, 1805.

Spoiled that we eate it thro' mear necessity,[30] Some Spoiled
pounded fish and a fiew roots.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 26th. Thursday 1805.

rained and blew hard last night, some hard Thunder, The
rain continued as usial all day and wind blew hard from the
S.E. Joseph Fields finish a Table & 2 seats for us. we dry
our wet articles and have the blankets fleed, The flees are so
troublesom that I have slept but little for 2 night past and we
have regularly to kill them out of our blankets every day for
several past. maney of the men have ther Powder wet by the
horns being repeatedly wet, hut smoke[s] verry bad.

Thursday 26th. of December 1805.

rained and blew with great Violence S E all the last night,
Some hard claps of Thunder, the rain as usial continued all
day. we dry our wet articles before the fire, and have our
blankets fleed, great numbers were Caught out of the blankets,
those trouble[some] insects are so abundant that we have to
have them killd. out of our blankets every day or get no Sleep
at night. The powder in maney of the mens horns are wet
from their being so long exposed to the rain. &c.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 27th.. Friday 1805.

rained last night as usial and the greater part of this day,
the men complete Chimneys & Bunks to day, in the evening
a Chief and 4 men come of the Clotsop nation chief Co-ma-wool
we sent out R. Fields & Collins to hunt and order
Drewyer, Shannon & Labiach to set out early to morrow to
hunt, Jo Fields, Bratten, & Gibson to make salt at Point
Addams, Willard & Wiser, to assist them in carrying the
Kittles &c. to the Ocian, and all the others to finish the Pickets
ani gates, worm weather I saw a Musquetor which I showed
Capt. Lewis Those Indians gave is [us], a black root they call
Shan-na-tâh-que a kind of Licquirish which they rost in embers

and call Cul-ho-mo, a black berry the size of a Cherry & Dried
which they call Shel-well—all of which they prise highly and
make use of as food to live on, for which Capt Lewis gave
the chief a cap of sheep skin and I his Son, ear bobs, Pice of
riben, a pice of brass, and 2 small fishing hooks, of which they
were much pleased, Those roots & berres, are greatfull to
our Stomcks as we have nothing to eate but Pore Elk meet,
nearly spoiled; & this accident of spoiled meet, is owing to
warmth & the repeeted rains, which cause the meet to tante
before we can get it from the woods. Musquetors troublesom

Friday 27th. December 1805

rained last night as usial and the greater part of this day.
In the evening Co-ma wool the Chief and 4 men of the Clatsop
nation [came] the[y] presented us a root which resembles the
licquirish in Size and taste, which they roste like a potato which
they Call Cul ho-mo, also a black root which is cured in a kill
like the pash-a-co above; this root has a Sweet taste and the
nativs are verry fond of it they call this root Shaw-na-tâh-que.
also a dried berry about the size of a Chery which they Call
Shell well all those roots those Indians value highly and give
them Verry Spearingly. in return for the above roots, Capt.
Lewis gave the Cheif a Small peice of Sheap Skin to Ware on
his head, I gave his Son a par of ear bobs and a pece of
ribon, and a Small piece of brass for which they were much
pleased.

Those roots and berries are timely and extreamly greatfull
to our Stomachs, as we have nothing to eate but Spoiled Elk
meat, I Showed Capt. L. 2 Musquetors to day, or an insect
So much the size shape and appearance of a Musquetor that
we could observe no kind of differance.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 28th. Saturday 1805.

rained as usial, a great part of the last night, and this morning
rained and the wind blew hard from the S.E. sent out the
hunters and salt makers, & employd the baleanc of the men
carrying the Pickets &c. &c. The 2 hunters sent out yesterday

returned, haveing killed one deer near the Sea cost, my boy
york verry unwell from violent colds & strains carrying in
meet and lifting logs on the huts to build them. This day is
worm, and rained all day moderately without intermition.

Saturday the 28th. of December 1805

rained as usial the greater part of the last night and a continuation
this morning accompanied with wind from the S East
Derected Drewyer, Shannon, Labeash, Reuben Field, and
Collins to hunt; Jos. Fields, Bratton, Gibson to proceed to
the Ocean at some conveneint place form a Camp and Commence
makeing Salt with 5 of the largest Kittles, and Willard
and Wiser to assist them in carrying the Kittles to the Sea
Coast. all the other men to be employed about putting up
pickets & makeing the gates of the fort. My Man Y. verry
unwell from a violent coald and Strain by carrying meet from
the woods and lifting the heavy logs on the works &c. rained
all Day without intermition. the Weather verry worm.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 29th.. Sunday 1805.

rained last night as usial, this morning cloudy without
rain a hard wind from the S.E. the Inds. left us this morning
and returned to their village, after begging for maney things
which they did not secure as we could not spare them I gave
the Chief Canio a razor, sent out 3 men across the river to
hunt, all others employd putting up pickets Pete Crusat sick
with a violent cold My servent better. we are told by the
Indians that a whale has foundered on the Coast to the N.W.
and their nations is collecting fat of him. the wind is too high
for us to see it, Capt. Lewis is been in readiness 2 days to go
and collect some of the whale oyle the wind has proved too
high as yet for him to set out in safty In the evening a young
Chief 4 men and 2 womin of the War-ci-a-cum tribe came in
a large canoe with Wapto roots, Dressed Elk skins &c. to sell,
the Chief made me a present of about a half a bushel of those
roots we gave him a medal of a small size and a piece of red

ribin to tie around the top of his Hat which was made with a
double cone, the diameter of the upper about 3 Inches
the lower a about 1 foot We purchased about 1 ½
bushels of those roots for which we gave some few red beeds,
small pices of brass wire and old check those roots proved
greatfull to us as we are now liveing on spoiled Elk which
is extreamly disagreeable to the smel. as well as the taste.

I can plainly discover that a considerable exchange of property
is continually carried on between the Tribes and villages
of those people they all dress litely ware nothing below the
waste, a pice of fur abt. around the body, and a short robe
which composes the total of their dress, except a few split hats,
and beeds around ther necks wrists and anckles, and a few in
their ears. They are small and not handsom generally speaking
women perticularly.

The Chin-nook womin are lude and carry on sport publickly
the Clotsop and others appear deffident, and reserved.

A List of the Tribes near the mouth of the Columbia river
as given by the Indians, the Places they reside, the names of
the Tribes and principal Chiefs of each all of which speak the
same language[31]

1st.

• Clot-sop Tribe in several small villages on the Sea Co[a]st
  to the S.E. of the Mouth & on the S.E. bank of the Columbia
  river—not noumerous
  

       

  1st.	Chief Con-ni â. Co-mo-wool
  2.	d° Sha-no-ma
  3.	d° War-ho-lott

2nd.

• Chin-nook Tribe reside opposit on the N.W. Side & in
  small villages & single houses made of split boards on a creek
  of Haleys bay, and on small lakes or ponds, at no great distance
  from the river or bay. Tolerably noumerous—so said
  

           

  1st	Chief is Stock-home
  2d.	d° Com-com-mo-ley
  3	d° Shil-lar-la-wit
  4	d° Nor-car-te
  5	d° Chin-ni-ni

---

295





3rd.

• Chiltch Tribe reside near the Sea Coast & North of the
  Chin-nooks live in houses and is said to be noumerous Speak
  same Language
  

       

  1st.	Chief Mar-lock-ke
  2d.	d° Col-chote
  3rd	do Ci-in-twar

4th

• Ca-la-mox Tribe reside on the Sea coast to the S.E. of
  the Columbia River and on a Small river, and as I am informed
  by the Clot-sops inhabit 10 Villages 6 of them on the
  ocian & 4 on the Little river, Those Ca-la-mox are said not to
  be noumerous Speake the Clotsop language
  

   

  1st	Chief O-co-no.

5th

• Calt-har-mar Tribe reside in one village of large Houses
  built of split boards and neetly made, on the S.E. Side of the
  Columbia River, behind a Island in a Deep bend of the River
  to the S. E. they are not noumerous, and live as the others
  do on fish, black roots Lickuerish berries, and Wap-pe-to roots,
  and is as low as those Wapeto roots grow, which is about 15
  miles on a Direct line from the Sea.

       

  1st.	Chief Clax-ter	{at war against the Snake Inds. to the S of the falls
  2d.	d° Cul-te-ell
  3	do [blank space in MS.] at war

6th

• Clax-ter Nation This nation reside on [blank space in
  MS] Side of the Columbia River in [blank space in MS.]
  villages above about
  [full line blank in MS.]
  and are noumerous they latterly floged the Chinnooks, and
  are a Dasterly Set
  

   

  1st	and great Chief Qui-oo

7th

• War-ci-a-cum Tribe reside on the N W. Side of the
  Columbia in the great bend behind some Islands, this tribe is
  not noumerous reside in 2 village[s] of Houses
  The Chief Scum ar-qua-up

The flees are so noumerous in this countrey and difficult to
get cleare of that the Indians have difft. houses & villages to

which they remove frequently to get rid of them, and not withstanding
all their precautions, they never step into our hut
without leaveing sworms of those troublecom insects. Indeed
I scercely get to sleep half the night clear of the torments of
those flees, with the precaution of haveing my blankets serched
and the flees killed every day. The 1st. of those insects we saw
on the Collumbia River was at the 1st Great falls. I have the
satisfaction to say that we had but little rain in the course of
this day, not as much as would wet a person. but hard wind
and cloudy all day.

Sunday 29th. December 1805

rained all the last night a[s] usial, this morning cloudy
without rain, a hard wind from the S.E I gave the Cheif a
razor, and himself and party left us after begging us for maney
articles none of which they recevied as we Could not Spare the
articles they were most in want of. Peter Crusat Sick with a
violent Cold, my Man Y. better; all hands employed about
the Pickets & gates of the fort. we were informed day before
yesterday that a whale had foundered on the coast to the S.W.
near the Kil a mox N. and that the greater part of the Clatsops
were gorn for the oile & blubber, the wind proves too high for
us to proceed by water to See this Monster, Capt. Lewis has
been in readiness Since we first heard of the whale to go and
see it and collect Some of its Oil, the wind has proved too
high as yet for him to proceed. this evining a young Chief 4
Men and 2 womin of the Warciacum nation arrived, and offered
for Sale Dressed Elk Skins and Wappato, the Chief made us
a preasent of about ½ a bushel of those roots. and we purchased
about 1 ½ bushels of those roots for which we gave Some fiew
red beeds Small peaces of brass wire & old Check those roots
proved a greatfull addition to our Spoiled Elk, which has become
verry disagreeable both to the taste & smell we gave
this Chief a Medal of a Small size and a piece of red riben to
tie around the [ILLUSTRATION] top of his hat which was of a Singular
Construction (in Peales Museum) Those people
will not sell all their Wappato to us they inform
us that they are on their way to trade with the Clâtsops.

The Nations above carry on a verry considerable interchange
of property with those in this neighbourhood. they pass altogether
by water, they have no roads or pathes through the
Countrey which we have observed, except across portages from
one creek to another, all go litely dressed ware nothing below
the waste in the Coaldest of weather, a piece of fur around
their bodies and a Short roabe composes the sum total of their
dress, except a few hats, and beeds about their necks arms and
legs Small badly made and homely generally. The flees are
So noumerous and hard to get rid of; that the Indians have
different houses which they resort to occasionally, not withstanding
all their precautions, they never Step into our house
without leaveing Sworms of those tormenting insects; and they
torment us in such a manner as to deprive us of half the nights
Sleep frequently. the first of those insects which we saw on
the Columbian waters was at the Canoe portage at the great
falls. Hard winds & cloudy all day but verry little rain to
day.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 30th. Monday 1805.

Hard wind and some rain last night, this morning fair and
the sun shown for a short time 4 Indians came from the
upper Villages they offered us roots which we did not chuse
to axcept of, as their expectations for those presents of a fiew
roots is 3 or 4 times their real worth, those Indians with those
of yesterday continued all day. Drewyer & party of hunters
returned and informed they had killed 4 Elk, a party of 6
men was imediately sent for the meet, they returned at Dusk,
with the 4 Elk, of which we had a sumptious supper of Elk
Tongues & marrow bones which was truly gratifying.

The fort was completed this evening and at sun set we let
The Indians know that, our custom will be to shut the gates
at sun set, at which time they must all go out of the fort.[32] those

people who are verry foward and disegreeable, left the huts
with reluctiance. This day proved the best we have had since
at this place, only 3 Showers of rain to day, cloudy nearly all
day, in the evening the wind luled and the fore part of the
night fair and clear. I saw flies & different kinds of insects in
motion to day Snakes are yet to be seen, and Snales without
cover is common and large, fowls of every kind common to
this quarter abound in the Creek & Bay near us

[ILLUSTRATION]

Monday 30th. December 1805

Hard wind and Some rain last night. this morning the Sun
Shown for a Short time. four Indians came down from the
Warciacum village, they offered us roots which we did not
think proper to accept of as in return they expect 3 or 4 times
as much as the roots as we could purchase the Roots for, and
are never satisfied with what they receive, those 4 Indians
& these that came yesterday Stayed all day. Drewyer returned
and informed that he had killed 4 Elk at no great distance off,
a party of 6 men was imediately dispatched for the meat, and
returned at Dusk with the 4 Elk. we had a Sumptious Supper
of Elks tongues & marrow bones which was truly gratifying.
our fortification is completed this evening and at Sun
set we let the nativs know that our Custom will be in future,
to Shut the gates at Sun Set at which time all Indians must
go out of the fort and not return into it untill next morning
after Sunrise at which time the gates will be opened, those of
the Warciacum Nation who are very fo[r]ward left the houses
with reluctianc[e] this day proved to be the fairest and best
which we have had since our arrival at this place, only three
Showers dureing this whole day, wind the fore part of the
day.

[Clark, first draft:]

December 31st.. Tuesday 1805.

A Cloudy night & some rain, this day proved cloudy and
some showers of rain to day all the Indians continued at their
camp near us, 2 others canoes came one from the War-ci-a-cum
Village, with three Indians, and the other from higher
up the river of the Skil-lute nation with three men and a Squar;
Those people brought with them some Wap to roots, mats
made of flags, & rushes, dried fish and some fiew She-ne-tock-we
(or black) roots & Dressed Elk skins, all of which
they asked enormous prices for, particularly the Dressed Elk
Skins; I purchased of those people some Wapto roots, two
mats and a small pouch of Tobacco of their own manufactory,
for which I gave large fish hooks, [of] which they were verry
fond, those Indians are much more reserved and better behaved

to day than yesterday the sight of our Sentinal who
walks on his post, has made this reform in those people who
but yesterday was verry impertenant and disagreeable to all.
This evening they all cleared out before the time to shut the
gates, without being derected to doe So. I derected sinks to
be dug and a Sentinal Box which was accomplished

One of those Indeans brought a Musquet to be repared,
which only wanted a Screw flattened, for which he gave me
a Peck of Wapto roots, I gave him a flint and a pice of Sheep
Skin of which he was pleased. January 1st. Wednesday 1806
in another book[33]

Tuesday 31st. December 1805

last night was cloudy and Some rain, this day prove
Cloudy and Showerry all day, all the Indians continue at
their camp near us, two other canoes arrived, one from the
Warciâcum Village with 3 indians and the other [of 3 men & a
squar] from higher up the river and are of the Skil-lute Nation,
those people brought with them Some Wappato roots, mats
made of flags and rushes dried fish, and fiew Shaw-na-tâh-que
and Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they asked enormous
prices for, perticularly the dressed Elk Skins, I purchased
of those people Some Wappato two mats and about 3 pipes
of their tobacco in a neet little bag made of rushes. This tobacco
was much like what we had Seen before with the Sosone
or Snake indians, for those articles I gave a large fishing hook
and Several other Small articles, the fishinghooks they were
verry fond of. Those Skillutes are much better behaved than
the Warciacum indeed we found a great alteration in the conduct
of them all this morning, the Sight of our Sentinal on
his post at the gate, together with our deturmined proseedure
of putting all out at Sun set has made this reform in those
Warciacoms who is fo[r]ward impertinant an [d] thieveish.

The nativs all leave the fort this evening before Sun set
without being told or desired to do So. we had Sinks dug
& a Sentinal box made. a Skillute brought a gun which he
requested me to have repared, it only wanted a Screw flattened
so as to catch, I put a flint into his gun & he presented me in
return a peck of Wappato for payment, I gave him piece of
a Sheap Skin and a Small piece of blue Cloth to cover his lock
for which he was much pleased and gave me in return Some
roots &c.

I saw flies and different kinds of insects in motion to day.
Snakes are yet to be Seen and Snales without covers is common
and verry large water fowls of various kinds are in great
numbers in the rivers and Creeks and the sides of Meriwethers
Bay near us but excessively wild. the fore part of this night
fair and clear

With the party of Clâtsops who visited us last was a man of
much lighter Coloured than the nativs are generaly, he was
freckled with long duskey red hair, about 25 years of age, and
must Certainly be half white at least, this man appeared to
understand more of the English language than the others of
his party, but did not Speak a word of English, he possessed
all the habits of the indians[34]

[Lewis:]

Fort Clatsop. 1806.
January 1st. Tuesday. [Wednesday][35]

This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge
of a volley of small arms, which were fired by our party in
front of our quarters to usher in the new year; this was the
only mark of rispect which we had it in our power to pay this

celebrated day. our repast of this day tho' better than that of
Christmass, consisted principally in the anticipation of the
1st. day of January 1807, when in the bosom of our friends we
hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day, and
when with the zest given by the recollection of the present, we
shall completely, both mentally and corporally, enjoy the
repast which the hand of civilization has prepared for us. at
present we were content with eating our boiled Elk and wappetoe,
and solacing our thirst with our only beverage pure water.
two of our hunters who set out this morning reterned in the
evening having killed two bucks elk; they presented Capt.
Clark and myself each a marrow-bone and tonge, on which we
suped. visited today by a few of the Clatsops who brought
some roots and burries for the purpose of trading with us. we
were uneasy with rispect to two of our men, Willard and
Wiser, who were dispatched on the 28th. ult0. with the salt-makers,
and were directed to return immediately; their not
having returned induces us to believe it probable that they
have missed their way. our fourtification being now completed
we issued an order for the more exact and uniform
discipline and government of the garrison.

[Orderly Book; Lewis:]

Fort Clatsop, January 1st. 1806

The fort being now completed, the Commanding officers
think proper to direct: that the guard shall as usual consist of
one Sergeant and three privates, and that the same be regularly
relieved each morning at sunrise. The post of the new guard
shall be in the room of the Sergeants rispectivly commanding
the same. the centinel shall be posted, both day and night, on
the parade in front of the commanding offercers quarters; tho'
should he at any time think proper to remove himself to any
other part of the fort, in order the better to inform himself of
the desighns or approach of any party of savages, he is not only
at liberty, but is hereby required to do so. It shall be the
duty of the centinel also to announce the arrival of all parties
of Indians to the Sergeant of the Guard, who shall immediately
report the same to the Commanding officers.

The Commanding Officers require and charge the Garrison
to treat the natives in a friendly manner; nor will they be permitted
at any time, to abuse, assault or strike them; unless
such abuse assault or stroke be first given by the natives.
nevertheless it shall be right for any individual, in a peaceable
manner, to refuse admittance to, or put out of his room, any
native who may become troublesome to him; and should such
native refuse to go when requested, or attempt to enter their
rooms after being forbidden to do so; it shall be the duty of
the Sergeant of the guard on information of the same, to put
such native out of the fort and see that he is not again admitted
during that day unless specially permitted; and the Sergeant
of the guard may for this purpose imploy such coercive
measures (not extending to the taking of life) as shall at his
discretion be deemed necessary to effect the same.

When any native shall be detected in theft, the Sergt. of the
guard shall immediately inform the Commanding offercers of
the same, to the end that such measures may be pursued with
rispect to the culprit as they shall think most expedient.

At sunset on each day, the Sergt. attended by the interpreter
Charbono and two of his guard, will collect and put out of the
fort, all Indians except such as may specially be permitted to
remain by the Commanding offercers, nor shall they be again
admitted untill the main gate be opened the ensuing morning.

At Sunset, or immediately after the Indians have been dismissed,
both gates shall be shut, and secured, and the main
gate locked and continue so untill sunrise the next morning:
the water-gate may be used freely by the Garrison for the
purpose of passing and repassing at all times, tho' from sunset,
untill sunrise, it shall be the duty of the centinel, to open the
gate for, and shut it after all persons passing and repassing,
suffering the same never to remain unfixed long[er] than is
absolutely necessary.

It shall be the duty of the Sergt. of the guard to keep the
kee of the Meat house, and to cause the guard to keep regular
fires therein when the same may be necessary; and also once
at least in 24 hours to visit the canoes and see that they are
safely secured; and shall further on each morning after he

is relieved, make his report verbally to the Command[in]g
officers.

Each of the old guard will every morning after being relieved
furnish two loads of wood for the commanding offercers fire.

No man is to be particularly exempt from the duty of bringing
meat from the woods, nor none except the Cooks and
Interpreters from that of mounting guard.

Each mess being furnished with an ax, they are directed to
deposit in the room of the commanding offercers all other
public tools of which they are possessed; nor shall the same
at any time hereafter be taken from the said deposit without
the knoledge and permission of the commanding officers; and
any individual so borrowing the tools are strictly required to
bring the same back the moment he has ceased to use them,
and [in] no case shall they be permited to keep them out
all night.

Any individual selling or disposing of any tool or iron or
steel instrument, arms, accoutrements or ammunicion, shall be
deemed guilty of a breach of this order, and shall be tryed and
punished accordingly. the tools loaned to John Shields are
excepted from the restrictions of this order.

[Clark, first draft:][36]

January 1st. Wednesday 1806

This morning proved cloudy with moderate rain, after a
pleasent worm night during which there fell but little rain This
morning at Day we wer Saluted from the party without, wishing
us a "hapy new Year" a Shout and discharge of their arms.
no Indians to be Seen this morning they left the place of
their encampment dureing the last night. The work of our
houses and fort being now complete, we Ishued an order in

which we pointed out the rules & regulations for the government
of the Party in respect to the Indians as also for the
Safty and protection of our Selves &c. two Clotsops Came
with a mat and Some fiew roots of Cut-wha-mo, for which they
asked a file they did not trade but continued all night

Sent out 2 hunters this morning who returned, haveing
killed 2 Elk about 3 miles distant, Some fiew Showers of rain
in the Course of this day. Cloudy all the day.

Fort Clatsop 1806 Wednesday the 1st. of January

This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge
of a Volley of Small arms, which were fired by our party in
front of our quarters to usher in the new year, this was the
only mark of respect which we had it in our power to pay this
Selibrated day. our repast of this day tho' better than that of
Christmas consisted principally in the anticipation of the 1st. day
of January 1807, when in the bosom of our friends we hope to
participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day, and when with
the relish given by the recollection of the present, we Shall
completely, both mentally and corporally, [enjoy] the repast
which the hand of civilization has produced for us. at present
we were content with eating our boiled Elk and Wappato, and
Solacing our thirst with our only beverage pure water. two of
our hunters who Set out this morning returned in the evening
haveing killed two Buck Elks; they presented Capt. Lewis and
my self each a marrow bone and tongue on which we Suped.
we are Visited to day by a fiew of the Clatsops by water they
brought some roots and berries for the purpose of tradeing
with us. our fortification being now complete we issue an
order for the more exact and uniform dicipline and government
of the garrison.

January 1st. 1806[37]

A List of the names of Sundery persons, who visit this part
of the Coast for the purpose of trade &c. &c. in large Vestles:

all of which speake the English language &c. as the Indians inform
us
                         

Moore	Visit them in a large 4 masted ship, they expect him in 2 moons to trade.
I Eyd [one-eyed] Skellie	in a large ship, long time gorn.
Youin	In a large Ship, and they expect him in 1 moon to trade with them.
Swepeton	In a Ship, they expect him in 3 month back to trade
Mackey	In a Ship, they expect him back in 1 or 2 Moons to trade with them.
Meship	In a Ship, the[y] expect him 2 moons to trade.
Jackson	Visit them in a Ship and they expect him back in 3 months to trade.
Balch	In a Ship and they expect him in 3 months to trade.
Mr. Haley	Visits them in a Ship & they expect him back to trade with them in 3 Moons to trade. he is the favourite of the Indians (from the number of Presents he gives) and has the trade principally with all the tribes.
Washilton	In a Skooner, they expect him in 3 months to return and trade with them—a favourite.
Lemon	In a Slupe, and they expect him in 3 moons to trade with them.
Davidson	Visits this part of the coast and river in a Brig for the purpose of Hunting the Elk returns when he pleases he does not trade any, kills a great many Elk &c&c.
Fallawan	In a Ship with guns he fired on & killed several Indians, he does not trade now and they doe not know when he will return, well done

[Another draft of the above by Clark, found in Codex I.—Ed.]

A List of the Names as given by the India[n]s of the Traders
Names and the quallity of their Vessels which they Say Visit
the mouth of the Columbia 2 [times] a year for the purpose of
Tradeing with the nativs, and from their accounts Spring and
autum

Mr Haley their favourite Trader visits them in a 3 Masted Vessel
Youens Visits in a 3 Masted Vessle

                     

Tallamon	d°	3	d°	d°	no trade
Swiption	d°	3	d°	d°	Trader
Moore	d°	4	d°	d°	d°
Mackey	d°	3	d°	d°	d°
Washington	d°	3	d°	d°	d°
Meship	d°	3	d°	d°	d°
Davidson	d°	2	d°	d°	Hunts Elk
Jackson	d°	3	d°	d°	Trader
Bolch	d°	3	d°	d°	d°
Skelley has been along time gorn					one Eye
Callallamet	d°	3			Trader has a wooden Leg.

[Lewis:]

Thursday, January 2nd. 1806

Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which
were killed yesterday. Willard and Wiser have not yet returned
nor have a party of hunters returned who set out on the
26th. Ulto. the Indians who visited yesterday left us at 1. P.M.
today after having disposed of their roots and berries for a few
fishinghooks and some other small articles. we are infested
with swarms of flees already in our new habitations; the presumption
is therefore strong that we shall not devest ourselves
of this intolerably troublesome vermin during our residence
here. The large, and small or whistling swan, sand hill Crane,
large and small gees, brown and white brant, Cormorant,
duckan mallard, Canvisback duck, and several other species of
ducks, still remain with us; tho' I do not think that they are
as plenty as on our first arrival in the neighbourhood. Drewyer
visited his traps and took an otter. the fur of both the beaver
and otter in this country are extreemly good; those annamals
are tolerably plenty near the sea coast, and on the small Creeks
and rivers as high as the grand rappids, but are by no means as
much so as on the upper part of the Missouri.

[Clark, first draft:]

January 2nd. Thursday 1806

A Cloudy rainey morning after a wet night. Dispatched
12 Men for the two Elk Killed yesterday which they brought

in at 11 oClock. the day proved cloudy and wet, the Indians
left us at 1 oClock P.M. Drewyer visited his traps
which had one otter in one of them. The flees are verry
troublesom, our huts have alreadey Sworms of those disagreeable
insects in them, and I fear we Shall not get rid of them
dureing our delay at this place.

Thursday 2nd. of January 1806

Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which
was killed yesterday. Willard & Wiser have not yet returned
nor have a party of hunters who Set out on the 26th. ulto:
the Indians who visited us yesterday left us at 1 P.M. to day
after haveing disposed of their roots and berries for a fiew
fishing hooks and Some other small articles. we are infestd.
with sworms of flees already in our new habitations; the presumption
is therefore Strong that we shall not devest our selves
of this intolerably troublesom vermin dureing our residence
here. The large, & small or whistling swan, Sand hill crane,
large & Small Gees, brown and white brant, Comorant, Duckanmallard,
canvis back duck, and Several other species of
Ducks Still remain with us; tho' I doe not think they are as
plenty as on our first arrival in this neighbourhood. Drewyer
visit his traps at [and] took out an otter. the fur of both
the beaver and otter as also the rackoon in this countrey are
extreemly good; those animals are tolerably plenty near the
Sea coast, on the Small creeks and rivers as high as the grand
Rapids.

[Lewis:]

Friday January 3d. 1806

At 11. A.M. we were visited by our near neighbours, Cheif
or Tiá. Co-mo-wool, alias Conia and six Clatsops. the[y]
brought for sale some roots buries and three dogs also a small
quantity of fresh blubber. this blubber they informed us they
had obtained from their neighbours the Callamucks[38] who inhabit
the coast to the S.E. near whose vilage a whale had

recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteeme
it excellent food. our party from necessaty having been
obliged to subsist some lenth of time on dogs have now become
extreemly fond of their flesh; it is worthy of remark
that while we lived principally on the flesh of this anamal we
were much more healthy strong and more fleshey than we had
been since we left the Buffaloe country. for my own part I
have become so perfectly reconciled to the dog that I think
it an agreeable food and would prefer it vastly to lean Venison
or Elk. a small Crow, the blue crested Corvus and the smaller
corvus with a white brest, the little brown ren, a large brown
sparrow, the bald Eagle and the beatifull Buzzard of the columbia
still continue with us. Sent Sergt. Gass and George
shannon to the saltmakers who are somewhere on the coast
to the S.W. of us,[39] to enquire after Willard and Wiser who
have not yet returned. Reubin Fields Collins and Pots the
hunters who set out on the 26th [28th] Ulto. returned this evening
after dark. they reported that they had been about 15
Miles up the river at the head of the bay just below us and
had hunted the country from thence down on the East side
of the river, even to a considerable distance from it and had
proved unsuccessfull having killed one deer and a few fowls,
barely as much as subsisted them. this reminded us of the
necessity of taking time by the forelock, and keep out several
parties while we have yet a little meat beforehand. I gave
the Chief Comowooll a pare of sattin breechies with which he
appeared much pleased.

[Clark, first draft:]

January 3rd. Friday 1806

The Sun rose fair this morning for the first time for Six
weeks past, the Clouds soon obscure it from our view, and
a Shower of rain Suckceeded. last night we had Sharp lightening
a hard thunder Suckceeded with heavy Showers of hail,

and rain, which Continud with intervales of fair Moon Shine
dureing the night. Sent out Sergt. Gass & 2 men to the Salt
makers with a v[i]ew to know what is the cause of the delay
of 2 of our party Willard & Wiser who we are uneasy about,
as they were to have been back 6 days ago.

Friday the 3rd. January 1806

At 11 A. M. we were visited by our near neighbour Chief
or tiá Co mo wool alias Conia (Côné) and six Clatsops. they
brought for Sale Some roots berries and 3 Dogs also a Small
quantity of fresh blubber. this blubber they informed us they
had obtained from their neighbours the Cal lá mox who inhabit
the coast to the S.E. near one of their Villages a Whale had
recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteem it
excellent food. our party from necescity have been obliged
to Subsist some length of time on dogs have now become extreamly
fond of their flesh; it is worthey of remark that while
we lived principally on the flesh of this animal we wer much
more helthy strong and more fleshey then we have been Sence
we left the Buffalow Country. as for my own part I have not
become reconsiled to the taste of this animal as yet. a Small
crow, the blue crested Corvus and the smaller corvus with a
white breast, the little brown ren, and a large brown Sparrow,
the bald Eagle, and the butifull Buzzard of the Columbia Still
continue with us, Send Sarjt. Gass and G. Shannon to the
Salt makers who are on the Sea Coast to the S.W. of us, to
enquire after Willard & Wiser who have not yet returned. R.
Field, potts & Collins the hunters who Set out on the 28th.
ulto., returned this evening after dark. they reported that they
had been about 15 miles up the river which falls into Merewethers
Bay to the East of us, and had hunted the Country
a considerable distance to East, and had proved unsucksesfull
haveing killed one Deer and a fiew fowls, bearly as much as
Subsisted them. this reminded us of the necessity of takeing
time by the forelock, and keep out Several parties while we
have yet a little meat beforehand. Capt. Lewis gave the Cheif
Cania a par of Sattin breechies with which he appeared much
pleased.

[Lewis:]

Saturday January 4th 1806.

Comowooll and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left
us in the evening. These people the Chinnooks and others
residing in this neighbourhood and speaking the same language
have been very friendly to us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive
people but will pilfer if they have an opportunity to do
so where they conceive themselves not liable to detection.
they are great higlers in trade and if they conceive you anxious
to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a handfull of
roots; this I should have thought proceeded from their want
of knowledge of the comparitive value of articles of merchandize
and the fear of being cheated, did I not find that they
invariably refuse the price first offered them and afterwards
very frequently accept a smaller quantity of the same article;
in order to satisfy myself on this subject I once offered a
Chinnook my watch two knives and a considerable quantity
of beads for a small inferior sea Otter's skin which I did not
much want, he immediately conceived it of great value, and
refused to barter except I would double the quantity of beads;
the next day with a great deal of importunity on his part I
received the skin in exchange for a few strans of the same beads
he had refused the day before. I therefore believe this trait
in their character proceeds from an avaricious all grasping disposition.
in this rispect they differ from all Indians I ever
became acquainted with, for their dispositions invariably lead
them to give whatever they are possessed off no matter how
usefull or valuable, for a bauble which pleases their fancy,
without consulting it's usefullness or value. nothing interesting
occurred today, or more so, than our wappetoe being all
exhausted.

[Clark:]

Saturday 4th January 1806

Comowool and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left us
in the morning. Those people the Chinnooks and others resideing
in this neighbourhood and Speaking the Same language
have been verry friendly to us; they appear to be a Mild
inoffensive people, but will pilfer if they have an oppertunity

to do so when they conceive themselves not liable to detection.
they are great higlers in trade and if they conceive you anxious
to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a hand full of
roots; this I should have thought proceeded from their want
of Knowledge of the comparitive value of articles of Merchindize
and the fear of being Cheated, did I not find that they
invariably refuse the price first offered them and afterwards
very frequently accept a smaller quantity of the Same article;
in order to satisfy myself on this point, I onc[e] offered a Clatsop
man my watch a knife, a Dollar of the coin of U States
and a hand full of beeds, for a Small Sea otter Skin, which I
did not much want, he imediately Conceived it of great value,
and refused to Sell unless I would give as maney more blue
beeds; the next day with a great deel of importunity on his
part we received the Skin in exchange for a fiew Strans of the
Same beeds he had refused the day before. I therefore beleive
this treat [trait] in their Charector proceeds from an avericious
all grasping disposition. in this respect they differ from all
Indians I ever became acquainted with, for their dispositions
invariably lead them to give whatever they are possessed off no
matter how usefull or valueable, for a bauble which pleases
their fancy, without consulting its usefullness or value. nothing
occured to day, or more So, than our Wappato being all
exhausted.

[Lewis:]

Sunday January 5th. 1806.

At 5.P.M. Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been
lost as we apprehended. they informed us that it was not untill
the fifth day after leaving the Fort that they could find a convenient
place for making salt; that they had at length established
themselves on the coast about 15 Miles S.W. from this,
near the lodge of some Killamuck families; that the Indians
were very friendly and had given them a considerable quantity
of the blubber of a whale which perished on the coast some
distance S.E. of them; part of this blubber they brought with
them, it was white & not unlike the fat of Poork, tho' the
texture was more spongey and somewhat coarser. I had a

part of it cooked and found it very pallitable and tender, it
resembled the beaver or the dog in flavour. it may appear
somewhat extraordinary tho' it is a fact that the flesh of the
beaver and dog possess a very great affinity in point of flavour.
These lads also informed us that J. Fields, Bratton and Gibson
(the Salt Makers) had with their assistance erected a comfortable
camp killed an Elk and several deer and secured a good
stock of meat; they commenced the making of salt and found
that they could obtain from 3 quarts to a gallon a day; they
brought with them a specemine of the salt of about a gallon,
we found it excellent, fine, strong, & white; this was a great
treat to myself and most of the party, having not had any since
the 20th. Ultmo.; I say most of the party, for my friend Capt.
Clark. declares it to be a mear matter of indifference with him
whether he uses it or not; for myself I must confess I felt a
considerable inconvenience from the want of it; the want of
bread I consider as trivial provided, I get fat meat, for as to
the species of meat I am not very particular, the flesh of the
dog the horse and the wolf, having from habit become equally
formiliar with any other, and I have learned to think that if
the chord be sufficiently strong, which binds the soul and
boddy together, it dose not so much matter about the materials
which compose it. Colter also returned this evening unsuccessfull
from the chase, having been absent since the 1st. Inst. Capt.
Clark determined this evening to set out early tomorrow with
two canoes and 12 men in quest of the whale, or at all events
to purchase from the Indians a parcel of the blubber, for this
purpose he prepared a small assortment of merchandize to take
with him.

[Clark:]

Sunday 5th. of January 1806

At 5 P.M. Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been
lost as we expected, they informd. us that it was not untill the
5th. day after leaveing the fort, that they could find a convenient
place for makeing Salt; that they had at length established
themselves on the Sea Coast about 15 miles S.W. from this,
near the houses of Some Clat-sop & Kilamox families; that

the Indians were very friendly and had given them a considerable
quantity of the blubber of the whale which perished on
the coast Some distance S.E. of them, it was white and not unlike
the fat of Pork, tho' the texture was more Spungey and
Somewhat Coarser. we had part of it cooked and found it
very pallitable and tender, it resembles the Beaver in flavour.
those men also informed us that the Salt makers with their assistance
had erected a comfortable camp, had killed an Elk and
Several Deer and secured a good Stock of Meat; they commenced
the makeing of Salt and found that they could make
from 3 quarts to a gallon a day; they brought with them a
specimen of the Salt, of about a gallon, we found it excellent
white & fine, but not so strong as the rock salt or that made in
Kentucky or the Western parts of the U, States. this salt was
a great treat to most of the party, haveing not had any Since
the 20th. ulto. as to my self I care but little whether I have any
with my meat or not; provided the meat [is] fat, haveing from
habit become entirely cearless about my diat, and I have learned
to think that if the cord be Sufficiently Strong which binds the
Soul and boddy together, it does not so much matter about the
materials which compose it.

Colter returned this evening unsecksessfull from the chase,
haveing been absent since the 1st. instt.

I determine to Set out early tomorrow with two canoes & 12
men in quest of the whale, or at all events to purchase from
the indians a parcel of the blubber, for this purpose I made
up a Small assortment of merchindize, and directed the men to
hold themselves in readiness &c.

[Lewis:]

Monday January 6th. 1806.

Capt Clark set out after an early breakfast with the party
in two canoes as had been concerted the last evening; Charbono
and his Indian woman were also of the party; the Indian
woman was very impo[r]tunate to be permited to go, and was
therefore indulged; she observed that she had traveled a long
way with us to see the great waters, and that now that monstrous
fish was also to be seen, she thought it very hard she

could not be permitted to see either (she had never yet been to
the Ocean).

The Clatsops, Chinnooks, Killamucks &c. are very loquacious
and inquisitive; they possess good memories and have
repeated to us the names capasities of the vessels &c of many
traders and others who have visited the mouth of this river;
they are generally low in stature, proportionably small, reather
lighter complected and much more illy formed than the Indians
of the Missouri and those of our frontier; they are generally
cheerfull but never gay. with us their conversation generally
turns upon the subjects of trade, smoking, eating or their
women; about the latter they speak without reserve in their
presents, of their every part, and of the most formiliar connection.
they do not hold the virtue of their women in high
estimation, and will even prostitute their wives and daughters
for a fishinghook or a stran of beads. in common with other
savage nations they make their women perform every species
of domestic drudgery. but in almost every species of this
drudgery the men also participate, their women are also compelled
to geather roots, and assist them in taking fish, which
articles form much the greatest part of their subsistance; notwithstanding
the survile manner in which they treat their
women they pay much more rispect to their judgment and
oppinions in many rispects than most indian nations; their
women are permitted to speak freely before them, and sometimes
appear to command with a tone of authority; they generally
consult them in their traffic and act in conformity to
their opinions.

I think it may be established as a general maxim that those
nations treat their old people and women with most differrence
[deference] and rispect where they subsist principally on such
articles that these can participate with the men in obtaining
them; and that, that part of the community are treated with
least attention, when the act of procuring subsistence devolves
entirely on the men in the vigor of life. It appears to me that
nature has been much more deficient in her filial tie than in any
other of the strong affections of the human heart, and therefore
think, our old men equally with our women indebted to

civilization for their ease and comfort. Among the Siouxs,
Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who subsist by hunting
it is a custom when a person of either sex becomes so old
and infurm that they are unable to travel on foot from camp to
camp as they rome in surch of subsistance, for the children or
near relations of such person to leave them without compunction
or remo[r]se; on those occasions they usually place within
their reach a small peace of meat and a platter of water, telling
the poor old superannuated wretch for his consolation, that he
or she had lived long enough, that it was time they should dye
and go to their relations who can afford to take care of them
much better than they could. I am informed that this custom
prevails even among the Minetares Arwaharmays and Recares
when attended by their old people on their hunting excurtions;
but in justice to these people I must observe that it appeared
to me at their vilages, that they provided tolerably well for
their aged persons, and several of their feasts appear to have
principally for their object a contribution for their aged and infirm
persons.

This day I overhalled our merchandize and dryed it by the
fire, found it all damp; we have not been able to keep anything
dry for many days together since we arrived in this neighbourhood,
the humidity of the air has been so excessively great.
our merchandize is reduced to a mear handfull, and our comfort
during our return the next year much depends on it, it is
therefore almost unnecessary to add that we much regret the
reduced state of this fund.

[Clark:]

Monday 6th. of January 1806

The last evening Shabono and his Indian woman was very
impatient to be permitted to go with me, and was therefore indulged;
She observed that She had traveled a long way with
us to See the great waters, and that now that monstrous fish
was also to be Seen, She thought it verry hard that She could
not be permitted to See either (She had never yet been to the
Ocian). after an early brackfast I Set out with two Canoes
down the Netel R into Meriwether Bay with a view to proced

on to the Clatsop town, and hire a guide to conduct me through
the creeks which I had every reason to beleeve Comunicated
both with the Bay and a Small river near to which our men
were making Salt. Soon after I arrived in the Bay the wind
Sprung up from the N. W. and blew So hard and raised the
waves so high that we were obliged to put into a Small creek
Short of the Village. finding I could not proceed on to the
Village in safety, I deturmined to assend this Creek as high as
the canoes would go; which from its directions must be near
the open lands in which I had been on the 10th. ulto., and leave
the Canoes and proceed on by land. at the distance of about
3 miles up this creek I observed Some high open land, at
which place a road set out and had every appearance of a portage,
here I landed drew up the canoes and Set out by land,
proceeded on through 3 deep Slashes to a pond about a mile
in length and 200 yards wide, kept up this pond leaving it to
the right, and passing the head to a creek which we could not
cross, this Creek is the one which I rafted on the 8th. & 9
ultimo: and at no great distance from where I crossed in
Cus ca lars Canoe on the 10th. ulto. to which place I expected a
find a canoe, we proceeded on and found a Small Canoe at the
place I expected, calculated to carry 3 men, we crossed and from
the top of a ridge in the Prarie we Saw a large gange of Elk
feeding about 2 miles below on our direction. I divided the
party So as to be certain of an elk, Several Shot[s] were fired
only one Elk fell. I had this Elk butchered and carried to a
Creak in advance at which place I intended to encamp, two
other Elk were badly Shot, but as it was nearly dark we could
not pursue them, we proceeded on to the forks of the Creek
which we had just crossed turning around to the S.W. and
meeting one of equal Size from the South, the two makeing a
little river 70 yards wide which falls into the Ocian near the
3 Clat Sop houses which I visited on the 9th. ulto. in the forks
of this Creek we found Some drift pine which had been left on
the Shore by the tide of which we made fires. the evening a
butifull Clear moon Shiney night, and the 1st. fair night which
we have had for 2 months