University of Virginia Library


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Chapter XXII

AT FORT CLATSOP

XXII. Lewis's Journal, January 7–20, 1806
Clark's Journal, January 7–20

[Lewis:]

Monday (Tuesday) January 7th. 1806.

LAST evening Drewyer visited his traps and caught a
beaver and an otter; the beaver was large and fat we
have therefore fared sumptuously today; this we consider
a great prize for another reason, it being a full grown
beaver was well supplyed with the materials for making bate
with which to catch others. this bate when properly prepared
will intice the beaver to visit it as far as he can smell it, and
this I think may be safely stated at a mile, their sense of smelling
being very accute. To prepare beaver bate, the castor or
bark stone is taken as the base, this is gently pressed out of
the bladderlike bag which contains it, into a phiol of 4 ounces
with a wide mouth; if you have them you will put from four
to six stone in a phiol of that capacity, to this you will add
half a nutmeg, a douzen or 15 grains of cloves and thirty grains
of cinimon finely pulverized, stir them well together and then
add as much ardent sperits to the composition as will reduce
it the consistency [of] mustard prepared for the table; when
thus prepared it resembles mustard precisely to all appearance.
when you cannot procure a phiol a bottle made of horn or a
tight earthen vessel will answer, in all cases it must be excluded
from the air or it will soon loose it's virtue; it is fit for uce
immediately it is prepared but becomes much stronger and
better in about four or five days and will keep for months
provided it be perfectly secluded from the air. when cloves
are not to be had use double the quantity of Allspice, and
when no spice can be obtained use the bark of the root of


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sausafras; when sperits can not be had use oil stone of the
beaver adding mearly a sufficient quantity to moisten the other
materials, or reduce it to a stif past[e.] it appears to me that
the principal uce of the spices is only to give a variety to the
scent of the bark stone and if so the mace vineller [vanilla]
and other sweetsmelling spices might be employed with equal
advantage. The male beaver has six stones, two [of] which
contain a substance much like finely pulvarized bark of a pale
yellow colour and not unlike tanner's ooz in smell, these are
called the bark stones or castors;[1] two others, which like the
bark stone resemble small bladders, contain a pure oil of a
strong rank disagreeable smell, and not unlike train oil, these
are called the oil stones; and 2 others of generation. the Barkstones
are about two inc[h]es in length, the others somewhat
smaller all are of a long oval form, and lye in a bunch together
between the skin and the root of the tail, beneath or
behind the fundament with which they are closely connected
and seem to communicate. the pride of the female lyes on
the inner side much like those of the hog. they have no
further parts of generation that I can perceive and therefore
beleive that like the birds they copulate with the extremity of
the gut. The female have from two to four young ones at a
birth and bring fourth once a year only, which usually happens
about the latter end of may and begining of June. at this
stage she is said to drive the male from the lodge, who would
otherwise destroy the young. dryed our lodge and had it put
away under shelter; this is the first day during which we have
had no rain since we arrived at this place. nothing extraordinary
happened today.

 
[1]

The preputial glands, containing the substance called castoreum (which once had
much vogue as an efficacious medicine). See H. T. Martin's monograph on the
beaver, Castorologia (Montreal, 1892), pp. 90–98.—Jesuit Relations, lxix, p. 291.

[Clark:]

Tuesday 7th of January 1806

Some frost this morning. I[t] may appear somewhat incrediable,
but So it is that the Elk which was killed last evening
was eaten except about 8 pounds, which I directed to be


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taken along with the Skin, I proceded up the South fork of
the Creek about 2 miles and crossed on a pine tree which had
been fallen by the Saltmakers on their first going out, on this
tree we crossed the deepest of the Water and waded on the
opposit Side for 30 yards,[2] from thence to the Ocian ¾ of a
mile through a Continuation of open ridgey Prarie, here the
Coast is Sandy, we proceeded on the Sandy beech nearly
South for 3 miles to the mouth of [a] butifull river with bold
and rapid current of 85 yards wide and 3 feet deep in the
Shallowest place, a Short distance up this river on the N E
side is the remains of an old village of Clatsops. I entered a
house where I found a Man 2 Wom[e]n & 3 Children, they
appeared retchedly pore & dirty, I hired the man to Set us
across the River which I call after the Nation Clatsop river[3]
for which I gave 2 fishing hooks. at this place the Creek over
which I crossed on a tree passes within 100 yards of the Clatsop
river over which the nativs have a portage which affords them
an easy communication with the villages near point adams, and
at the mouth of the creek, on which we lay last night. in
walking on the Sand after crossing the river I saw a Singular
Species of fish which I had never before Seen one of the men
Call this fish a Skaite, it is properly a Thornback. I proceeded
on about 2 miles to near the base of [a] high Mountain where
I found our Salt makers, and with them Sergt. Gass, Geo.
Shannon was out in the woods assisting Jo Field and gibson
to kill Some Meat, the Salt Makers had made a Neet close
camp, convenient to wood Salt water and the fresh water of the
Clâtsop river which at this place was within 100 paces of the
Ocian. they wer also Situated near 4 houses of Clatsops &
Killamox, who they informed me had been verry kind and
attentive to them. I hired a young Indian to pilot me to the
whale for which Service I gave him a file in hand and promised
Several other small articles on my return, left Sergt. gass and
one man of my party Werner to make Salt & permited Bratten
to accompany me, we proceeded on the round Slipery Stones
under a high hill which projected into the ocian about 4 miles

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further than the direction of the Coast.[4] after walking for 2 ½
miles on the Stones, my guide made a Sudin halt, pointed to
the top of the mountain and uttered the word Pe shack which
means bad, and made signs that we could not proceed any
further on the rocks, but must pass over that mountain, I
hesitated a moment & view this emence mountain the top of
which was obscured in the clouds, and the assent appeard. to be
almost perpindecular; as the small Indian parth allong which
they had brought emence loads but a fiew hours before, led up
this mountain and appeared to assend in a Sideling direction, I
thought more than probable that the assent might be torerably
easy and therefore proceeded on, I soon found that the [path]
become much worst as I assended, and at one place we were
obliged to Support and draw our selves up by the bushes &
roots for near 100 feet, and after about 2 hours labour and
fatigue we reached the top of this high mountain, from the top
of which I looked down with estonishment to behold the hight
which we had assended, which appeared to be 10 or 12 hundred
feet up a mountain which appeared to be almost perpindicular,
here we met 14 Indians men and women loaded with
the Oil & Blubber of the whale. In the face of this tremendeous
precipic[e] imediately below us, there is a Stra (tar)
of white earth (which my guide informed me) the neighbouring
indians use to paint themselves, and which appears to me to
resemble the earth of which the French Porcelain is made; I
am confident that this earth contains argile,[5] but whether it also
contains silex or magnesia, or either of those earths in a proper
perpotion I am unable to deturmine. we left the top of the
precipice and proceeded on a bad road and encamped on a
small run passing to the left; all much fatiagued

 
[2]

A branch of Skipanon Creek in the northwest corner of Clatsop County.—Ed.

[3]

Now the Necanicum, falling into the ocean north of Tillamook Head.—Ed.

[4]

Tillamook Head, a high forest-covered point, upon which an important coast
lighthouse now stands.—Ed.

[5]

The word argil was first used as synonomous with alumina. It is now confined
to potter's clay. This earth was doubtless some form of kaolinite.—Ed.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday (Wednesday) January 8th. 1806.

Our meat is begining to become scarse; sent Drewyer and
Collins to hunt this morning, the guard duty being hard on


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the men who now remain in the fort I have for their relief
since the departure of Capt. Clark made the Cooks mount
guard. Sergt. Gass and Shannon have not yet returned, nor
can I immajen what is the cause of their detention. In consequence
of the clouds this evening I lost my P.M. observation
for Equal Altitudes, and from the same cause have not been
able to take a single observation since we have been at this
place. nothing extraordinary happened today.

The Clatsops Chinnooks and others inhabiting the coast and
country in this neighbourhood, are excessively fond of smoking
tobacco. in the act of smoking they appear to swallow it as
they draw it from the pipe, and for many draughts together
you will not perceive the smoke which they take from the
pipe; in the same manner also they inhale it in their lungs
untill they become surcharged with this vapour when they
puff it out to a great distance through their nost[r]ils and
mouth; I have no doubt the smoke of the tobacco in this
manner becomes much more intoxicating and that they do
possess themselves of all it's virtues in their fullest extent;
they freequently give us sounding proofs of it's creating a dismorallity
of order in the abdomen, nor are those light matters
thought indelicate in either sex, but all take the liberty of obeying
the dictates of nature without reserve. these people do
not appear to know the uce of sperituous liquors, they never
having once asked us for it; I presume therefore that the
traders who visit them have never indulged them with the uce
of it; from what ever cause this may proceede, it is a very
fortunate occurrence, as well for the natives themselves, as for
the quiet and safety of thos whites who visit them.

[Clark:]

Wednesday 8th. January 1806

The last night proved fair and cold wind hard from the
S. E. we Set out early and proceeded to the top of the
mountain next to the [former?] which is much the highest
part and that part faceing the sea is open, from this point I
beheld the grandest and most pleasing prospects which my
eyes ever surveyed, in my frount a boundless Ocean; to the


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N. and N.E. the coast as as far as my sight could be extended,
the Seas rageing with emence wave[s] and brakeing with great
force from the rocks of Cape Disapointment as far as I could
See to the N.W. The Clatsops Chinnooks and other villagers
on each Side of the Columbia river and in the Praries below
me, the meanderings of 3 handsom Streams heading in Small
lakes at the foot [of] the high Country; The Columbia
River for some distance up, with its Bays and Small rivers:
and on the other side I have a view of the coast for an emence
distance to the S.E. by S. the nitches and points of high
land which forms this corse for a long ways aded to the inoumerable
rocks of emence Sise out at a great distance from
the shore and against which the Seas brak with great force
gives this coast a most romantic appearance. from this point
of View[6] My guide pointed to a Village at the mouth of a
Small river near which place he Said the whale was, he also
pointed to 4 other places where the princ[i]pal Villages of the
Killamox were Situated, I could plainly See the houses of 2
of those Villeges & the Smoke of a 3rd. which was two far of[f],
for me to disern with my naked eye. after taking the courses
and computed the Distances in my own mind, I proceeded on
down a Steep decent to a Single house the remains of an old
Kil a mox Town in a nitch imediately on the Sea coast, at
which place great N°. of eregular rocks are out and the waves
comes in with great force. Near this old Town I observed
large Canoes of the neetest kind on the ground, Some of which
appeared nearly decayed others quit[e] Sound, I examoned
those canoes and found that [they] were the repository of
the dead. This Custom of Secureing the Dead differs a
little from the Chinnooks. the Kilamox Secure the dead
bodies in an oblong box of Plank, which is placed in an
open canoe resting on the ground, in which is put a paddle
and Sundery other articles the property of the disceased. The
Coast in the neighbourhood of this old village is slipping from
the Sides of the high hills, in emence masses; fifty or a hundred

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acres at a time give way and a great proportion of [in] an
instant precipitated into the Ocean. those hills and mountains
are principally composed of a yellow clay; their Slipping off or
Spliting assunder at this time is no doubt caused by the incessant
rains which has fallen within the last two months. the
mountans covered with a verry heavy c[g]roth of pine & furr,
also the white cedar or arbor vita and a Small proportion of
the black alder, this alder grows to the hight of Sixty or
Seventy feet and from 2 to 3 feet in diamiter. Some Species
of pine (or fur) on the top of the Point of View rise to the
emmence hight of 210 feet and from 8 to 12 feet in diameter,
and are perfectly Sound and Solid. Wind hard from the S.E.
and See looked [wild] in the after part of the Day breaking
with great force against the Scattering rocks at some distance
from Shore, and the ruged rockey points under which we wer
obleged to pass and if we had unfortunately made one false
Step we Should eneviateably have fallen into the Sea and
dashed against the rocks in an instant, fortunately we passed
over 3 of those dismal points and arived on a butifull Sand
Shore on which we continued for 2 miles, crossed a Creek
80 yards near 5 Cabins, and proceeded to the place the whale
had perished, found only the Skelleton of this Monster on
the Sand between (2 of) the Villages of the Kil a mox nation;
the Whale was already pillaged of every Valuable part by the
Kilamox Inds. in the Vecinity of whose village's it lay on the
Strand where the waves and tide had driven up & left it. this
Skeleton (of the Whale Capt. Clark) measured 105 feet.[7] I
returned to the Village of 5 Cabins on the creek which I shall
call E co-la or Whale Creek,[8] found the nativs busily engaged
boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large Squar
wooden trought by means of hot stones; the oil when extracted
was secured in bladders and the Guts of the whale; the
blubber from which the oil was only partially extracted by this

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process, was laid by in their cabins in large flickes [flitches] for
use; those flickes they usially expose to the fire on a wooden
Spit untill it is prutty well wormed through and then eate it
either alone or with roots of the rush, Shaw na tâk-we or Diped
in the oil. The Kil a mox although they possessed large
quantities of this blubber and oil were so prenurious that they
disposed of it with great reluctiance and in small quantities
only; insomuch that my utmost exertion aided by the party
with the Small Stock of merchindize I had taken with me were
not able to precure more blubber than about 300lb. and a fiew
gallons of oil; Small as this stock is I prise it highly; and
thank providence for directing the whale to us; and think him
much more kind to us than he was to jonah, having Sent this
Monster to be Swallowed by us in Sted of Swallowing of us as
jonah's did. I recrossed Ecola Creek and encamped on the
bank at which place we observed an ebundance of fine wood
the Indian men followed me for the purpose of Smokeing. I
enquired of those people as well as I could by Signs the Situation,
mode of liveing & Strength of their nation. They
informed me that the bulk of their nation lived in 3 large
villages Still further along the Sea coast to the S.S.W. at the
enterence of 3 Creek[s] which fell into a bay, and that other
houses were scattered about on the coast, Bay and on a Small
river which fell into the Bay in which they cought Salmon, and
from this Creek (which I call Kil a mox River)[9] they crossed
over to the (Wap pato I.) on the Shock.ah lil com (which is the
Indian name for the Columbia river)[10] and purchased Wappato
&c. that the nation was verry large and that they had a great
maney houses, In Salmon Season they cought great numbers
of that fish in the Small creeks, when the Salmon was Scerce
they found Sturgion and a variety of other fish thrown up by

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the waves and left by the tide which was verry fine, Elk was
plenty in the mountains, but they could not Kill maney of
them with their arrows. The Kil â mox in their habits customs
manners dress & language differ but little from the Clatsops,
Chinnooks and others in the neighbourhood, [their houses]
are of the Same form of those of the Clatsops with a Dore at
each end & two fire places i, e. the house is double as long as
wide and divided into 2 equal parts with a post in the middle
Supporting the ridge pole, and in the middle of each of those
divisions they make their fires, dores Small & houses Sunk
5 feet.

 
[6]

Called by the explorers, Clark's Point of View. It is now known as False
Tillamook Head, or Cape Falcon, and was the headland seen from Cape Disappointment,
Nov. 18, 1805.—Ed.

[7]

Gass says the head alone measured twelve feet. Coues thinks this was probably
the great gray whale of the Pacific (Rhachianectes glaucus), but that the length must
have been exaggerated.—Ed.

[8]

The Nehalem River, a considerable stream in Tillamook County emptying into
a bay of the same name.—Ed.

[9]

The Indians were speaking here of Tillamook Bay, into which several rivers
and creeks run. The largest of these (doubtless the one Clark named Kilamox
from hearsay) is now Wilson River, from whose upper waters a portage to Sauvie
(Wappato) Island would not be difficult.—Ed.

[10]

Silas B. Smith says that Clark misunderstood the Indians at this point. They
never name a river, only localities, so that there was no Indian word for the Columbia.
Shocatilcum (Shockahlilcom) was a chief of the tribe from whom the Tillamook purchased
wappato.—Ed.

[Lewis:]

Friday (Thursday) January 9th. 1806.

Our men are now very much engaged in dressing Elk and
Deer skins for mockersons and cloathing. the deer are extreemly
scarce in this neighbourhood, some are to be found
near the praries and open grounds along the coast. this evening
we heard seven guns in quick succession after each other,
they appeared to be on the Creek to the South of us and
several miles distant; I expect that the hunters Drewyer and
Collins have fallen in with a gang of Elk. some marrow bones
and a little fresh meat would be exceptable; I have been living
for two days past on poor dryed Elk, or jurk as the hunters
term it.

The Clatsops Chinnooks &c bury their dead in their canoes.
for this purpose four pieces of split timber are set erect on
end, and sunk a few feet in the grown[d], each brace having
their fiat sides opposite to each other and sufficiently far assunder
to admit the width of the canoes in which the dead are
to be deposited; through each of these perpendicular posts,
at the hight of six feet a mortice is cut, through which two
bars of wood are incerted; on these cross bars a small canoe
is placed in which the body is laid after being carefully roled
in a robe of some dressed skins; a paddle is also deposited
with them; a larger canoe is now reversed, overlaying and im
bracing the small one, and resting with it's gunwals on the
cross bars; one or more large mats of rushes or flags are then



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illustration

Two swords, a bludgeon and a paddle,
apparently drawn by Lewis.



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roled around the canoes and the whole securely lashed with
a long cord, usually made of the bark of the Arbor vita or
white cedar. on the cross bars which support the canoes is
frequently hung or laid various articles of cloathing culinary
eutensels &c. I cannot understand them sufficiently to make
any enquiries relitive to their religeous opinions, but presume
from their depositing various articles with their dead that they
believe in a state of future existence.

The persons who usually visit the entrance of this river for
the purpose of traffic or hunting I believe are either English
or Americans; the Indians inform us that they speak the
same language with ourselves, and give us proofs of their varacity
by repeating many words of English, as musquit, powder,
shot, [kjnife, file, damned rascal, sun of a bitch &c. whether
these traders are from Nootka sound, from some other late
establishement on this coast, or immediately from the U'States
or Great Brittain, I am at a loss to determine, nor can the
Indians inform us. the Indians Whom I have asked in what
direction the traders go when they depart from hence, or arrive
here, always point to the S.W. from which it is presumeable
that Nootka cannot be their destination; and as from
Indian information a majority of these traders annually visit
them about the beginning of April and remain with them six
or seven Months, they cannot come immediately from Great
Britain or the U'States, the distance being too great for them
to go and return in the ballance of the year. from this circumstance
I am sometimes induced to believe that there is some
other establishment on the coast of America south West of
this place of which little is but yet known to the world, or it
may be perhaps on some Island in the pacific ocean between
the Continents of Asia and America to the South West of us.[11]


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This traffic on the part of the whites consists in vending, guns,
(principally old british or American musquits) powder, balls
and shot, Copper and brass kettles, brass teakettles and coffee
pots, blankets from two to three point, scarlet and blue Cloth
(coarse), plates and strips of sheet copper and brass, large
brass wire, knives, beads and tobacco with fishinghooks buttons
and some other small articles; also a considerable quantity
of Sailor's cloaths, as hats coats, trowsers and shirts, for
these they receive in return from the natives, dressed and undressed
Elk-skins, skins of the sea Otter, common Otter,
beaver, common fox, spuck,[12] and tiger cat; also dryed and
pounded sammon in baskets, and a kind of buisquit, which the
natives make of roots called by them shappelell. The natives
are extravegantly fond of the most common cheap blue and
white beads, of moderate size, or such that from 50. to 70.
will weigh one penneyweight. the blue is usually p[r]efered
to the white; these beads constitute the principal circulating
medium with all the indian tribes on this river; for these beads
they will dispose [of] any article they possess, the beads are
strung on strans of a fathom in length and in that manner
sold by the bredth or yard.

 
[11]

In 1788 the English trader Meares established a post at Nootka Sound, and built
and launched the first vessel ever constructed on the Northwest Coast; and American
traders erected, three years later, a post at Clayoquot, and built and launched a
schooner. Americans and British were trading on that coast thereafter. For accounts
of their early voyages thereto, see Bancroft, N. W. Coast, ii, pp. 320–326.
Most ships, whether traders or whalers, then sailed by way of the Sandwich Islands.
These facts will sufficiently explain our text. The brig "Lydia," ftom Boston,
Captain Hill commanding, was in Columbia River in November, 1805, a fortnight
after Lewis and Clark had passed down the river, possibly while they lay encamped
in Gray's Bay, or upon Point Ellice. See Jewitt, Journal kept at Nootka Sound
(New York, 1812), and later editions under title of Adventures and Sufferings of
John R. Jewitt
. This author says, "We proceeded about ten miles up the river to
a small Indian village, where we heard from the inhabitants that Captains Clark and
Lewis, from the United States of America, had been there about a fortnight before
on their journey overland, and had left several medals with them, which they showed
us." The "Lydia" remained upon the Northwest coast until August of the next
year. The ignorance of the explorers as to the vicinity of this ship is to be assigned
to either the stupidity or the cunning of the Indians. Possibly the crafty Chinook
Concomly resented the explorers' treatment of his nation, and took his revenge by
keeping them in ignorance of a fact that would have been of great value to the expedition.
Ed.

[12]

A term applied by the natives to the young of the sea-otter.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Thursday 9th. January 1806

a fine morning wind from the N.E. last night about 10
oClock while Smokeing with the nativ's I was alarmed by a
loud Srill voice from the cabins on the opposite side, the


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Indians all run immediately across to the village, my guide
who continued with me made Signs that Some one's throat
was Cut, by enquiry I found that one man Mc.Neal was
absent, I imediately Sent off Sergt. N. Pryor & 4 men in
quest of Mc Neal who' they met comeing across the Creak in
great hast, and informed me that the people were alarmed on
the opposit side at Something but what he could not tell, a
Man had verry friendly envited him to go and eate in his
lodge, that the Indian had locked armes with him and went
to a lodge in which a woman gave him Some blubber, that the
man envited him to another lodge to get Something better,
and the woman [Knowing his design] held him [Mc Neal] by
the blanket which he had around him (He not knowing her
object freed himself & was going off, when
[This woman a Chinnook
an old friend of Mc Neals
] and another ran out and hollow'd
and his pretended friend disapeared. I emediately ordered
every man to hold themselves in a State of rediness and Sent
Sergt. Pryor & 4 men to know the cause of the alarm which
was found to be a premeditated plan of the pretended friend
of Mc Neal to ass[ass]anate [him] for his Blanket and what fiew
articles he had about him, which was found out by a Chinnook
woman who allarmed the men of the village who were
with me in time to prevent the horred act. this man was of
another band at Some distance and ran off as soon as he was
discovered. we have now to look back and Shudder at the
dreadfull road on which we have to return of 45 miles S E of
Point adams & 35 miles from Fort Clatsop. I had the blubber
& oil divided among' the party and set out about Sunrise
and returned by the Same rout we had went out, met Several
parties of men & women of the Chinnook and Clatsops nations,
on their way to trade with the Kil a mox for blubber and
oil; on the Steep decent of the Mountain I overtook five
men and Six women with emence loads of the Oil and blubber
of the Whale, those Indians had passed by Some rout by
which we missed them as we went out yesterday; one of the
women in the act of getting down a Steep part of the Mountain
her load by Some means had Sliped off her back, and She
was holding the load by a Strap which was fastened to the mat

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bag in which it was in, in one hand and holding a bush by the
other, as I was in front of my party, I endeavoured to relieve
this woman by takeing her load untill She could get to a better
place a little below, & to my estonishment found the load as
much as I could lift and must exceed 1001bs. the husband of
this woman who was below Soon came to her releif, those
people proceeded on with us to the Salt works, at which place
we arrived late in the evening, found them without meat, and
3 of the Party J. Field Gibson & Shannon out hunting, as I
was excessively fatigued and my party appeared verry much so,
I determined to Stay untill the morning and rest our selves a
little. The Clatsops proceeded on with their lodes. The
Clatsops, Chinnooks Kilámox &c. are verry loquacious and
inquisitive; they possess good memories and have repeeted
to us the names capasities of the Vessels &c of maney traders
and others who have visited the mouth of this river; they are
generally low in Statu[r]e, proportionably Small, reather lighter
complected and much more illy formed than the Indians of the
Missouri and those of our fronteers; they are generally Chearfull
but never gay. with us their conversation generally turns
upon the subject of trade, Smokeing, eating or their women;
about the latter, they Speak without reserve in their presence,
of their every part, and of the most farmiliar Connection. they
do not hold the virtue of their women in high estimation, and
will even prostitute their wives and Daughters for a fishing-hook
or a Stran of beeds. in Common with other Savage
nations they make their womin perform every Species of
domestic drugery; but in almost every Species of this drugery
the men also participate, their woman are compelled to gather
roots, and assist them in takeing fish; which articles form
much the greater part of their Subsistance; notwithstanding
the Survile manner in which they treat their womin they pay
much more respect to their judgement and oppinion in maney
respects than most indian nations; their womin are permited
to Speak freely before them, and Sometimes appear to command
with a tone of authority; they generally consult them
in their traffic and act conformably to their opinions.

I think it may be established as a general maxim that those


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nations treat their old people and women with most defference
and respect where they Subsist principally on Such articles
that these can participate with the men in obtaining them;
and that, that part of the Community are treated with least
attention, when the act of precureing subsistance devolves
entirely on the men in the vigor of life. It appears to me
that nature has been much more deficient in her filial ties than
in any others of the Strong effections of the humane heart, and
therefore think our old men equally with our woman indebted
to sivilization for their ease and comfort. I am told among
the Sioux's, Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who Subsist
by hunting it is a Custom when a person of either Sex
becoms So old and infirm that they are unable to travel on
foot, from Camp to Camp as they rove in serch of subsistance,
for the Children or near relations of such person to leave them
without compunction or remorse; on those occasions they
usially place within their reach a Small piece of meat and a
platter of water, telling the poor old Superannuated retch for
their Consolation, that he or She had lived long enough, and
that it was time they Should die and go to their relations who
can afford to take care of them, much better than they Could.
I am informed that the Menetares Arwarharmays and Ricares
when attended by their old people on their hunting expedition[s]
prosued the Same Custom; but in justice to those
people I must observe that it appeared to me at their villages,
that they provided tolerably well for their aged persons, and
Several of their feasts appear to have principally for their object
a contribution for their aged and infirm persons. In one
of the Mandan villages I Saw an old man to whome I gave a
knife and enquired his age, he Said he had Seen more than
100 winters, and that he Should Soon go down the river to
their old village. he requested I would give him Something
to prevent the pain in his back his grand Son a Young man
rebuked the old man and Said it was not worth while, that it
was time for the old man to die. the old man occupied one
Side of the fire and was furnished with plenty of covouring
and food, and every attention appeared to be paid to him. &c.
Jó. Field in my absence had killed an Elk and a Deer, brought

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in the Deer and half of the Elk on a part of which we Suped,
Some rain a little after dark. I visited a house near the Salt
boilers found it inhabited by 2 families, they were pore dirty
and their house Sworming with flees.

[Lewis:]

Saturday (Friday) January 10th 1806.

About 10.A.M. I was visited by Tia Shâh-hâr-wâr-cap and
eleven of his nation in one large canoe; these are the Cuth'-lâh-mâh'
nation who reside first above us on the South side of
the Columbia river; this is the first time that I have seen the
Chief, he was hunting when we past his vilage on our way to
this place. I gave him a medal of the smallest size; he presented
me with some indian tobacco and a basquit of woppetoe,
in return for which I gave him some thread for making a
skiming-net and a small piece of tobacco. these people speak
the same language with the Chinnooks and C[l]atsops whom
they also resemble in their dress customs manners &c. they
brought some dryed salmon, wappetoe, dogs, and mats made
of rushes and flags, to barter; their dogs and a part of their
wappetoe they disposed off, an[d] remained all night near the
fort. This morning Drewyer and Collins returned having
killed two Elk only, and one of those had died in their view
over a small lake which they had not the means of passing it
being late in the evening and has of course spoiled, as it laid
with the entrals in it all night; as the tide was going out we
could not send for the elk today, therefore ordered a party to
go for it early in the morning and George and Collins to con
tinue their hunt; meat has now become scarce with us.—

Capt Clark returned at 10 P.M. this evening with the majority
of the party who accompanyed him; having left some men
to assist the saltmakers to bring in the meat of two Elk which
they had killed, and sent 2 others through by land to hunt.
Capt. Clark found the whale on the Coast about 45 Miles S.E.
of Point Adams [Round], and about 35 Miles from Fort Clatsop
by the rout he took; The whale was already pillaged of
every valuable part by the Killamucks, in the vicinity of one


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of whose villages it lay on the strand where the waves and tide
had driven [it] up and left it. this skelleton measured one
hundred and five feet. Capt C. found the natives busily engaged
in boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large
wooden trought by means of hot stones; the oil when extracted
was secured in bladders and the guts of the whale; the
blubber, from which the oil was only partially extracted by this
process, was laid by in their lodges in large fliches for uce;
this they usually expose to the fire on a wooden spit untill it
is pretty well warmed through and then eat it either alone or
with the roots of the rush, squawmash, fern[13] wappetoe &c.
The natives although they possessed large quantities of this
blubber and oil were so penurious that they disposed of it with
great reluctance and in small quantities only; insomuch that
the utmost exertions of Capt. C. and the whole party aided by
the little stock of merchandize he had taken with him and some
small articles which the men had, were not able to procure
more blubber than about 300 lb. and a few gallons of the oil;
this they have brought with them, and small as the store is,
we prize it highly, and thank providence for directing the whale
to us, and think him much more kind to us than he was [to]
jonah, having sent this monster to be swallowed by us in stead
of swallowing of us as jona's did. Capt. C. found the road along
the coast extreemly difficult of axcess, lying over some high
rough and stoney hills, one of which he discribes as being
much higher than the others; having it's base washed by the
Ocea[n] over which it rares it's towering summit perpendicularly
to the hight of 1500 feet; from this summit Capt. C.
informed me that there was a delightfall and most extensive
view of the ocean, the coast and adjacent country; this Mou.t
I have taken the liberty of naming Clark's Mountain and point
of view;
it is situated about 30 M. S.E. of Point Adams.
(Disapointment) and projects about 2 ½ miles into the Ocean;
Killamucks [Qu. Clatsop] river falls in a little to the N.W.

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of this mountain; in the face of this tremendious precepice
there is a stra[tum] of white earth (see specimen N°. [blank
space in Ms.]) which the neighbouring Indians use to paint
themselves, and which appears to me to resemble the earth of
which the French Porcelain is made; I am confident this earth
contains Argill, but w[h]ether it also contains Silex or magnesia,
or either of those earths in a proper proportion I am
unable to determine. Shannon and Gass were found with the
Salt makers and ordered to return M,c Neal was near being
assassinated by a Killamuck Indian, but fortunately escaped in
consequence of a Chinnook woman giving information to Capt.
C., the party and Indians with them before the villain had prepared
himself to execute his purposes. The party returned
excessively fortiegued and tired of their jaunt. Killamucks
[Clatsop] river is 85 yards wide, rappid and 3 feet deep in the
shallowest part. The Killamucks in their habits customs
manners dress and language differ but little from the Clatsoops
& Chinnooks. they place their dead in canoes and [resting on
the ground
] uncovered, having previously secured the dead
bodies in an oblong box of plank.

The coast in the neighbourhood of Clarks Mountain is sliping
off & falling into the Ocean in immence masses; fifty or a
hundred acres at a time give way and a great proportion in an
instant [is] precipitated into the Ocean. these hills and mountains
are principally composed of a yellow clay; there sliping
off or spiking assunder at this time is no doubt caused by the
incessant rains which have fallen within the last two months.
the country in general as about Fort Clatsop is covered with
a very heavy growth of several species of pine & furr, also the
arbor vita or white cedar and a small proportion of the black
Alder which last sometimes grows to the hight of sixty or
seventy feet, and from two to four feet in diameter. some
species of the pine rise to the immence hight of 210 feet and
are from 7 to 12 feet in diameter, and are perfectly sound and
solid.

 
[13]

A species of brake (Pteris aquilina lanuguinosa) the root of which is edible and
nutritious. "Squawmash" is only a corruption of camass (Camassia esculenta).
The "rush" is one of the horsetails (Equisetum telmateia); its root is edible, although
insipid to the taste.—Ed.


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[Clark:]

Friday the 10th. of January 1806

I derected Sergt. Gass to continue with the salt makers untill
Shannon return from hunting, and then himself and Shannon
to return to the Fort, I set out at Sunrise with the party
waded the Clatsop river which I found to be 85 Steps across
and 3 feet deep, on the opposite Side a Kilamox Indian Came
to [me] and offered to Sell Some roots of which I did not
want [any], he had a robe made of 2 large Sea otter Skins
which I offered to purchase, but he would not part with them,
we returned by nearly the Same rout which I had come out,
at four miles, I met Gibson & Shannon each with a load of
meat, they informed me that they had killed Elk about 2
miles off, I directed 3 men to go with the hunters and help
them pack the meat to the place they were makeing Salt, and
return to the fort with Sergt. Gass, the balance of the party
took the load of the 3 men, after crossing the 2d. Creek frasure
informed me that he had lost his big knife, here we Dined.
I put frasurs load on my guide who is yet with me, and Sent
him back in Serch of his knife with directions to join the other
men who were out packing meat & return to the fort all together.
I arrived at the Canoes about Sunset, the tides was
Comeing in I thought it a favourable time to go on to the
fort at which place we arrived at 10 oClock P M, found Several
inidians of the Cath′lâh-mâh nation the great Chief Shâh-hâr-wâh
cop
who reside not far above us on the South Side of
the Columbia River, this is the first time I have Seen the
Chief, he was hunting when we passed his village on our way
to this place, we gave him a medal of the Smallest Size, he
presented me with a basquet of Wappato, in return for which
I gave him a fish hook of a large Size and Some wire, those
people Speak the Same language with the Chinnooks and
Clatsops, whome they all resemble in Dress, Custom, manners
&c. they brought Some Dried Salmon, Wappato, Dogs, and
mats made of rushes & flags to barter; their Dogs and part
of their Wappato they disposed of, and remained in their Camp
near the fort all night.

In my absence the hunters from the fort killed only two Elk
which is yet out in the woods. Capt. Lewis examined our Small


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Stock of merchendize found Some of it wet and Dried it by
the fire. Our Merchindize is reduced to a mear handfull, and
our comfort, dureing our return next year, much depends on
it, it is therefore almost unnecessary to add that it is much
reduced T[he] nativs in this neighbourhood are excessively
fond of Smokeing tobacco. in the act of Smokeing they appear
to swallow it as they draw it from the pipe, and for maney.
draughts together you will not perceive the Smoke they take
from the pipe, in the Same manner they inhale it in their
longs untill they become Surcharged with the Vapour when
they puff it out to a great distance through their norstils and
mouth; I have no doubt that tobacco Smoked in this manner
becomes much more intoxicating, and that they do possess
themselves of all its virtues to the fullest extent; they frequently
give us Sounding proofs of its createing a dismorallity
of order in the abdomen, nor are those light matters thought
indelicate in either Sex, but all take the liberty of obeying the
dicktates of nature without reserve. Those people do not
appear to know the use of Speritious licquors, they never
haveing once asked us for it; I prosume therefore that the
traders who visit them have never indulged them with the use
of it; of whatever cause this may proceed, it is a verry fortunate
occurrence, as well for the nativs themselves, as for the quiet and
Safty of those whites who visit them. George Drewyer visited
this [his] traps in my absence and caught a Beaver & a otter;
the beaver was large and fat, and Capt. L. has feested Sumptiously
on it yesterday; this we consider as a great prize, it being a full
grown beaver was Well Supplyed with the materials for makeing
bate with which to catch others. this bate when properly prepared
will entice the beaver to visit it as far as he can Smell it,
and this I think may be Safely Stated at ½ a mile, their sence
of Smelling being verry accute. To prepare beaver bate, the
Caster-or bark Stone is taken as the base, this is generally
pressed out of the bladder like bag which contains it, into a
phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if you have them you
will put from 4 to 6 Stone in a phial of that capacity, to this
you will add half a Nutmeg, a Dozen or 15 grains of Cloves
.and 30 grains of Sinimon finely pulverised, stur them well

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together, and then add as much ardent Sperits to the composition
as will reduce it to the Consistancey of Mustard prepared
for the table, when thus prepared it resembles mustard precisely
to all appearance. When you cannot precure a phial a
bottle made of horn or a light earthern vessel will answer, in
all cases it must be excluded from the air or it will Soon lose
its Virtue; it is fit for use imediately it is prepared but becoms
much stronger and better in 4 or 5 days and will keep for
months provided it be purfectly Secluded from the air. when
cloves are not to be had use double the quantity of allspice,
and when no spices can be obtained use the bark of the root
of the Sausafras; when Sperits cannot be had use oil Stone of
the beaver adding mearly a Sufficent quantity to moisten the
other materials, or reduce it to a Stiff paste. it appears to me
that the principal use of the Spices is only to give a variety to
the Scent of the bark Stone and if So the mace vineller, and
other Sweet Smelling Spices might be employd with equal
advantage. The Male Beaver has Six stones, two[of] which
contanes a substance much like finely pulverised bark of a pale
yellow Colour and not unlike tanner's ooz in smell, these are
Called the bark stones or castors; two others, which like the
bark stone resemble Small blatters, contain a pure oil of a
Strong rank disagreable Smell, and not unlike train Oil, these
are Called the Oil Stones, and two others of Generation. The
bark stones are about 2 inches in length, the others somewhat
Smaller, all are of a long Oval form, and lye in a bunch together
between the skin and the root of the tail beneath or behind the
fundiment with which they are closely connected and Seam to
communicate, the pride of the female lye on the inner Side
much like those of the hog they have no further parts of
Generation that I can proceive, and therefore believe that like
the birds they Coperate [copulate] with the extremity of the
gut. The female have from 2 to 4 young ones at a birth and
bring forth once a year only which usially happins about the
latter end of May and beginning of June. at this Stage She is
said to drive the Mail from the lodge, who would otherwise
distroy the young.


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[Lewis:]

Sunday (Saturday) January 11th. 1806.

Sent a party early this morning for the Elk which was killed
on the 9th. they returned with it in the evening; Drewyer and
Collins also returned without having killed anything. this
morning the Sergt. of the guard reported the absence of our
Indian Canoe, on enquiry we found that those who came in it
last evening had been negligent in securing her and the tide in
the course of the night had taken her off; we sent a party
down to the bay in surch of her, they returned unsuccessfull,
the party also who went up the river and Creek in quest of the
meat were ordered to lookout for her but were equally unsuccessfull;
we ordered a party to resume their resurches for her,
early tomorrow; this will be a very considerable loss to us if
we do not recover her; she is so light that four men can carry
her on their sholders a mile or more without resting; and will
carry three men and from 12 to 15 hundred lb8. the Cuthlâhmâhs
left us this evening on their way to the C[l]atsops, to whom
they purpose bartering their wappetoe for the blubber and oil
of the whale, which the latter purchase for beads &c. from the
Killamucks; in this manner there is a trade continually carryed
on by the natives of the river each trading some article or
other with their neighbours above and below them; and thus
articles which are vended by the whites at the entrance of this
river, find their way to the most distant nations enhabiting it's
waters.

[Clark:]

Saturday 11th. of January 1806

Sent a party early this morning for the Elk which was killed
on the 9th. they returned with it in the evining; This morning
the Sergt. of the guard reported that our Indian Canoe had gone
a Drift, on enquiry we found that those who came in it last
evening had been negligent in Secureing her, and the tide in
corse of the night had taken her off; we Sent a party down to
the bay in Serch of her, they returned unsecksessfull, the
party who went up the river and creek after meat were derected
to look out for her but were equally unsecksessfull; this will
be a verry considerable loss to us if we do not recover her, She


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is so light that 4 men can carry her on their Sholders a mile or
more without resting, and will carry four men and from 10 to
12 hundred pounds. The Cathlâmâhs left us this evening on
their way to the Clatsops, to whome they perpose bartering
their Wappato for the blubber & Oil of the whale, which the
latter purchased for Beeds &c. from the Kilámox; in this Manner
there is a trade continually carried on by the nativs of the
river each tradeing Some articles or other with their neighbours
above and below them, and those articles which are Vended by
the Whites at their enterance of this river, find their way to the
most distant nations inhabiting its waters.

[Lewis:]

Monday (Sunday) January 12th. 1806.

The men who were sent in surch of the canoe returned without
being able to find her, we therefore give her over as lost.
This morning sent out Drewyer and one man to hunt, they
returned in the evening, Drewyer having killed seven Elk; I
scarcely know how we should subsist were it not for the
exertions of this excellent hunter. At 2.P.M. the ballance of
the party who had been left by Capt. C. arrived; about the
same time the two hunters [also arrived] who had been dispatched
by Capt. C. for the purpose of hunting, [on the 9th. inst.]
they had killed nothing. We have heretofore usually divided
the meat when first killed among the four messes into which
we have divided our party leaving to each the care of preserving
and the discretion of using it, but we find that they make
such prodigal use of it when they hapen to have a tolerable
stock on hand that we have determined to adapt a different
system with our present stock of seven Elk; this is to jirk it &
issue to them in small quantities

[Clark:]

Sunday the 12th. of January 1806

This morning Sent out Drewyer and one man to hunt,
they returned in the evening Drewyer haveing killed 7 Elk; I
scercely know how we Should Subsist, I beleive but badly if it
was not for the exertions of this excellent hunter; maney


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others also exert themselves, but not being accquainted with the
best method of finding and killing the elk and no other wild
animals is to be found in this quarter, they are unsucksessfull
in their exertions. at 2 P.M. Sergt. Gass and the men I left to
assist the salt makers in carrying in their meat arrived also the
hunters which I directed to hunt in the point, they killed
nothing. We have heretofore devided the Meat when first
killed among the four messes, into which we have divided our
party, leaveing to each the care of preserving and distribution
of useing it; but we find that they make such prodigal use of
it when they happen to have a tolerable Stock on hand, that we
are determined to adopt a Different System with our present
stock of Seven Elk; this is to jurk it and issue it to them in
Small quantities.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday (Monday) January 13th. 1806.

This morning I took all the men who could be spared from
the Fort and set out in quest of the flesh of the seven Elk that
were killed yesterday, we found it in good order being untouched
by the wolves, of which indeed there are but few in
this country; at 1.P.M. we returned having gotten all the
meat to the fort, this evening we exhausted the last of our
candles, but fortunately had taken the precaution to bring with
us moulds and wick, by means of which and some Elk's tallow
in our possession we do not yet consider oursleves destitute of
this necessary article; the Elk we have killed have a very small
portion of tallow.

The traders usually arrive in this quarter, as has been before
observed, in the month of April, and remain untill October;
when here they lay at anchor in a bay within Cape Disappointment
on the N. side of the river; here they are visited by
the natives in their canoes who run along side and barter their
comodities with them, their being no houses or fortification on
shore for that purpose. the nations who repare thither are
fi[r]st, those of the sea coast S. E. of the entrance of the river,
who reside in the order in which their names are mentioned,
begining at the entrance of the river (viz) The Clatsop, Killamuck,


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Ne-cost, Nat-ti, Nat-chies, Tarl-che, E-slitch, You-cone
and So-see. secondly those inhabiting the N.W. coast begining
at the entrance of the river and mentioned in the same
order; the Chinnook and Chiltch the latter very numerous;
and thirdly the Cath-lâh-mah, and Skil-lutes, the latter numerous
and inhabiting the river from a few miles above the
marshey Islands, where the Cuth-lâh-mâhs cease, to the grand
rappids. These last may be esteemed the principal carryers or
intermediate traders betwen the whites and the Indians of the
sea Coast, and the E-ne-shurs, the E-chee-lutes, and the Chil-luck-kit-te
quaws, who inhabit the river above, to the grand falls
inclusive, and who prepare most of the pounded fish which is
brought to market.[14] The bay in which this trade is carryed
on is spacious and commodious, and perfectly secure from all
except the S. and S.E. winds, these however are the most
prevalent and strong winds in the Winter season. fresh water
and wood are very convenient and excellent timber for refiting
and reparing vessels.—

 
[14]

In the Biddle text (ii, pp. 116–120) is given an enumeration of the tribes, with
their population, located on the seacoast near the Columbia, on both sides of the
river. The explicit statement is made that "our personal observation has not
extended beyond the Killamucks;" and, at the close, that details of the characters
and customs of those tribes "must be left to future adventurers." The tribes whom
they mention belong mainly to the Salishan, Chinookan, and Yakonan families.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Monday 13th. January 1806

Capt. Lewis took all the men which could be speared from
the Fort and Set out in quest of the flesh of the Seven Elk
which were killed yesterday they found the meat all Secure
untouched by the Wolves, of which indeed there are but fiew
in this countrey; at 1 P.M. the party returned with the 2d. and
Last load of meat to the fort. this evening we finished all
[the] last of our candles, we brought with us, but fortunately
had taken the precaution to bring with us moulds and wick,
by means of which and Some Elk tallow in our possession we
do not think our Selves distitute of this necessary article, the
Elk which have been killed have a verry Small portion of
tallow. The Traders usially arrive in this quarter, in the


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month of april, and remain until October; when here they lay
at anchor in a Bay within Cape Disapointment on the N. side
of the river; here they are visited by the nativs in their Canoes
who run along Side and barter their comodities with them,
their being no houses or fortification on Shore for that purpose.

The nations who repare thither ar[e] first those of the Sea
Coast S.E. & N W of the enterance of the river, who reside
in the order in which their names are mentioned to the S E
the Clatsops, Kil á mox, and those to the N W. the Chinnooks,
and Chiltch; (Ch. on the coast to the N. W.) and Secondly
the Cath-lâh-mâh, War-ki-a-cum, and Skil-lutes, the
latter noumerous and inhabiting (the river Cowe lis kee) those
last may be considered or [as] intermedeate traders between
the whites and nations on the Sea Coast, and the E-ne-churs,
the E-chee-lutes, and the Chil-luck-kit-te-quaws, who inhabit
the river up to the great falls inclusive, and who prepare most
of the pounded fish which is brought to Market.

The Bay in which the trade is Carried on is Spacious and
Commodious, and perfectly Secure from all except the S. &
S. E. Winds and those blow but Seldom the most prevalent
& strong winds are from the S.W. & N W in the Winter
Season. fish water and wood are very convenient and excellent
timber for refitting and repareing vessels.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday (Tuesday) January 14th. 1806.

This morning the Sergt. of the Guard reported the absence
of one of the large perogues, it had broken the chord by which
it was attatched and the tide had taken it off; we sent a party
immediately in surch of her, they returned in about 3 hours
having fortunately found her. we now directed three of the
perogues to be drawn up out of reach of the tide and the
fourth to be mored in the small branch just above the landing
and confined with a strong rope of Elk-skin. had we lost
this perogue also we should have been obliged to make three
small ones, which with the few tools we have now left would
be a serious undertaking. a fatiegue of 6 men employed in
jerking the Elk beaf.


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From the best estimate we were able to make as we d[e]scended
the Columbia we conceived that the natives inhabiting
that noble stream, for some miles above the great falls to the
grand rappids inclusive annually prepare about 30,000 lbs. of
pounded sammon for market. but whether this fish is an
article of commerce with the whites or is exclusively sold to,
and consumed by the natives of the sea Coast, we are at a loss
to determine. the first of those positions I am disposed to
credit most, but, still I must confess that I cannot imagine
what the white merchant's object can be in purchasing this
fish, or where they dispose of it. and on the other hand the
Indians in this neighbourhood as well as the Skillutes have an
abundance of dryed sammon which they take in the creeks
and inlets, and I have never seen any of this pounded fish in
their lodges, which I presume would have been the case if they
purchased this pounded fish for their own consumption. the
Indians who prepared this dryed and pounded fish, informed
us that it was to trade with the whites, and shewed us many
articles of European manufacture which they obtained for it.
it is true they obtain those articles principally for their fish but
they trade with the Skillutes for them and not immediately
with the whites; the intermediate merchants and carryers, the
Skillutes, may possibly consume a part of this fish themselves
and dispose of the ballance of it [to] the natives of the sea
coast, and from them obtain such articles as they again trade
with the whites.

[Clark:]

Tuesday 14th. January 1806

This morning the Serjt. of the guard reported the absence of
one of our canoes it had broken the cord by which it was attached
and the tide had taken her off; We Sent a party imediately
in Serch of her, they returned in about 3 hours
haveing fortunately found her. We now derect that 3 of the
[canoes] be drawed up out of reach of the tide and the 4th. to
be tied with a long Strong Cord of Elk Skins, ready for use.
had we lost this large Canoe We Should have been obliged to
make 3 other Small ones, which with the fiew tools we have


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now left would be a Serious undertakeing. a fatiege of six
men employd in jurking the Elk beef. From the best estermate
we were enabled to make as we decended the columbia
we conceived that the nativs inhabiting that noble Stream
(from the enterance of Lewis's river to the neighbourhood
of the falls the nativs consume all the fish they Catch either
for food or fuel) From Towarnehiooks River or a fiew mil[e]s
above the Great falls to the grand rapids inclusive anually
prepare about 30,000 lbs of pounded fish (Chiefly Salmon)
for Market, but whether this fish is an article of Commerce
with their neighbours or is exclusively Sold to, and Consumed
by the nativs of the sea coast, we are at a loss to determine
the latter of those positions I am dispose[d] to credit most,
as I cannot imagine what the white merchants obje[c]ts could
be in purchaseing fish, or where they could dispose of it. on
the other hand the Indians in this neighbourhood as well as
the Skillutes and those above have an abundance of Dryed
Salmon which they take in the creeks and inlets, they are
excessively fond of the pounded fish haveing frequently asked
us for Some of it. the Indians who prepared this pounded
fish made signs that they traded it with people below them for
Beeds and trinkets &c. and Showed us maney articles of European
Manufacture which they obtained for it; the Skillutes
and Indians about the great rapids are the intermediate merchants
and Carryers, and no doubt consume a part of this fish
themselves and dispose of the ballance of it to the nativs of
the Sea coast, and from this obtain Such articles as they again
trade with the whites.

The persons who usially visit the enterence of this river for
the purpose of traffic or hunting, I believe is either English or
Americans; the Indians inform us that they Speak the Same
language with ourselves, and gave us proofs of their varacity
by repeating maney words of English, Sun of a pitch &. (heave
the lead
& maney blackguard phrasses). Whether those traders
are from Nootka Sound, from Some other late establishment
on this Coast, or imediately from the U. States or Great Brittain,
I am at a loss to determine, nor can the Indians inform
us. the Indians whome I have asked in what direction the


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traders go when they depart from hence, allways point to the
S. W. from which it is prosumeable that Nootka cannot be
their distination; and from Indian information a Majority of
those traders annually visit them about the beginning of April
and remain Some time and either remain or revisit them in
the fall of which I cannot properly understand, from this
circumstance they canot come directly from the U States or
Great Brittain, the distance being to great for them to go and
return in the ballance of a year. I am Sometimes induced to
believe that there is Some other Establishment on the Coast
of America South of this place of which little is but yet
known to the world, or it may be perhaps on Some Island in
the Pacific Ocian between the Continant of America & Asia
to the S.W. of us. This traffic on the part of the whites consist
in vending, guns, principally old British or American
Musquets, powder, balls and shote, brass tea kittles, Blankets
from two to three points, scarlet and blue Cloth (Coarse), plates
and Strips of Sheet Copper and brass, large brass wire Knives
Beeds & Tobacco with fishing hook buttons and Some other
Small articles; also a considerable quantity of Salors Clothes,
as hats, Coats, Trouse[r]s and Shirts. for those they receive
in return from the nativs Dressed and undressed Elk Skins,
Skins of the Sea otter, Common otter, beaver, common fox,
Speck, and [Spotted or] tiger Cat, also Some Salmon dried or
pounded and a kind of buisket, [the native dispose of some of
these biscuits not a great article of trade
] which the nativs make
of roots called by them Shappelell. The nativs are extravigantly
fond of the most common cheap Blue and white beeds,
of moderate size, or Such that from 50 to 70 will way one
pennyweight, the blue is usially preferred to the white; those
beeds constitute the principal Circulating medium with all the
Indian tribes on the river; for those beeds they will dispose
of any article they possess. the beeds are Strung on Strans
of a fathom in length & in that manner Sold by the bre[d]th
[arms length or double arms lengtlh] or yard.


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[Lewis:]

Thursday (Wednesday) January 15th. 1806.

Had a large coat completed out of the skins of the Tiger
Cat and those also of a small animal about the size of a squirrel
not known to me; these skins I procured from the Indians
who had previously dressed them and formed them into robes;
it took seven of these robes to complete the coat. we had
determined to send out two hunting parties today but it rained
so incessantly that we posponed it. no occurrence worthy of
relation took place today.

The implyments used by the Chinnooks Clatsops Cuthlahmahs
&c in hunting are the gun the bow & arrow, deadfalls,
pitts, snares, and spears or gigs; their guns are usually of an
inferior quality being oald refuse American & brittish Musquits
which have been repared for this trade. there are some
very good peices among them. but they are invariably in bad
order; they apear not to have been long enou[g]h accustomed
to fire arms to understand the management of them, they
have no rifles. Their guns and amunition they reserve for
the Elk, deer and bear, of the two last however there are but
few in their neighbourhood. they keep their powder in small
japaned tin flasks which they obtain with their amunition from
the traders; when they happen to have no ball or shot, they
substitute gravel or peices of potmettal, and are insensible of
the damage done thereby to their guns. The bow and arrow
is the most common instrument among them, every man being
furnished with them whether he has a gun or not; this instrument
is employed indiscriminately in hunting every species of
anamal on which they subsist. Their bows are extreamly neat
and very elastic, they are about two and a half feet in length,
and two inches in width in the center, thence tapering graduly
to the extremities where they are half an inch wide they are
very flat and thin, formed of the heart of the arbor-vita or
white cedar, the back of the bow being thickly covered with
sinews of the Elk laid on with a Gleue which they make from
the sturgeon; the string is made of sinues of the Elk also.
the arrow is formed of two parts usually tho' sometimes entire;
those formed of two parts are unequally divided that part on
which the feathers are placed occupyes four fifths of it's length


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and is formed of light white pine reather larger than a swan's
quill, the lower extremity of this is a circular mortice secured
by sinues roled around it; this mortice receives the one end
of the 2nd. part which is of a smaller size than the first and
about five inches long, in the end of this the barb is fixed and
confined with sinue, this barb is either stone, iron or copper,
if metal in this form [ILLUSTRATION] forming at it's point a greater
angle than those of any other Indians I have observed.
the shorter part of the arrow is of harder
wood as are also the whole of the arrow when it is of one piece
only. as these people live in a country abounding in ponds
lakes &c and frequently hunt in their canoes and shoot at fowl
and other anamals where the arrow missing its object would be
lost in the water they are constructed in the manner just discribed
in order to make them float should they fall in the
water, and consequently can again be recovered by the hunter;
the quiver is usually the skin of a young bear or that of a
wolf invariably open at the side in stead of the end as the
quivers of other Indians generally are; this construction appears
to answer better for the canoe than if they were open at
the end only. maney of the Elk we have killed since we have
been here, have been wounded with these arrows, the short
piece with the barb remaining in the animal and grown up in
the flesh. the deadfalls and snares are employed in taking the
wolf the raccoon and fox of which there are a few only. the
spear or gig is used to take the sea otter, the common otter,
spuck, and beaver. their gig consists of two points or barbs
and are the same in their construction as those discribed before
as being common among the Indians on the upper part of. this
river. their pits are employed in taking the Elk, and of
course are large and deep, some of them a cube of 12 or 14
feet. these are usually placed by the side of a large fallen tree
which as well as the pit lye across the roads frequented by the
Elk. these pitts are disguised with the slender boughs of
trees and moss; the unwary Elk in passing the tree precipiates
himself into the pitt which is sufficiently deep to prevent his
escape, and is thus taken.


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[Clark:]

Friday [Wednesday] 15th. of January 1806

Capt. Lewis had a large coat finished made of the Skins of
the tiger Cat, and those of the Small animal about the Size
of Small cat not known to me; those Skins were precured
from the Indians who had previously dressed them and formed
them into robes; it took Seven of those robes to Complete
the coat. no occurrence worthey of remark took place.
rained hard all day. The imployments used by the Chinnooks
Clatsops, Cath-lah-mahs Kil-a-mox &c in hunting are
the gun the bow & arrow, dead falls, Pitts, Snares, and Spears
or gigs; their guns are usially of an inferior quallity being
old refuse american or brittish muskets which have been repared
for this trade there are Some verry good pieces among
them, but they are invariably in bad order they appear not
to be long enough acquainted with fire arms to understand the
management of them. They have no rifles. Their guns and
amunition they reserve for the Elk, Deer, and Bear, of the
two last however there are but fiew in their neighbourhoods.
they keep their powder in Small japaned tin flasks which they
obtain with their amunition from the traders; when they
happen to have no Ball or Shot they Substitute Gravel and
are insenceable of the dammage done thereby to their Guns.

The Bow and arrow is the most common instrument among
them, every man being furnished with them whether he has a
gun or not, this instrement is imployed indiscreminately in
hunting every Species of animal on which they Subsist, Their
bows are extreemly meet [neat] and very elastic, they are about
two feet six inches long and two inches wide in the Center,
thence tapering gradually to the extremities, where they ar ¾
of an Inch wide, they are very flat and thin, formed of the
heart of the arbor vita or white cedar, the back of the Bow
being thickly covered with Sinues of the Elk laid on with a
Gleue which they make from the Sturgeon; the String is made
of the Sinues of the Elk also, the arrow is formed of two parts
usually tho' Sometimes entire; those formed of 2 parts are
uneaquilly devided, the part on which the feathers are placed
occupie 4/5 of it's length and is formed of light white pine rather
larger than a Swans quill, in the lower extremity of this is a


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circular mortice Secured by sinues raped around it; this mortice
rec[e]ives the one end of the 2d part which is of Smaller Size
than the first and about five inches long, in the end of this the
barb is fixed and Confined with Sinues, the berb is either Iron
Copper or Stone—in this form [ILLUSTRATION] forming
at its point a greater angle than
those of any other Indians I have
observed. The Shorter part of the arrow is of harder wood,
as are also the whole of the arrow where it is of one piece only.
as these people live in a Countrey abounding in Ponds lakes
&c. and frequently hunt in their Canoes and Shoot at fowls
and other animals where the arrow missing its object would be
lost in the water they are constructed in the Manner just
discribed in order to make them flote Should they fall in the
water, and consequently can again be recovered by the hunter;
the quiver is useally the Skin of a young bear or that of a wolf
invariably open at the Side in Sted of the end, as the quiver
of other Indians generally are, this Construction appears to
answer better for the Canoe, than if they were open at the end
only. maney of the Elk which our hunters have killd. Sence
we have been here have been wounded with those arrows, the
Short piece with the barbe remaining in the Animal and grown
up in the flesh, the Deadfalls & snares are employd in takeing
the Wolf, the racoon and fox of which there are a fiew.
the Spear or gig is used to take the Sea otter, [or] Spuck,
[Ind. name] & Beaver. The gig consists of two points or birbs
and are the Same in their construction as those which are
common among the Indians on the upper part of this river and
before discribed. Their pitt are employed in takeing the Elk,
and of Course are large and Deep, Some of them a Cube of
12 or 14 feet, those ar commonly placed by the Side of a
large fallen tree which as well as the pitt lie across the roads
frequented by the Elk, these pitts are disguised with the
Slender bows of trees & moss: the unwarry Elk In passing
the tree precipates himself into the pitt which is Sufficiently
deep to prevent his escape.


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[Lewis:]

Friday (Thursday) January 16th. 1806.

This evening we finished curing the meat. no occurrence
worthy of relation took place today. we have plenty of Elk
beef for the present and a little salt, our houses dry and comfortable,
and having made up our minds to remain until the
1st. of April, every one appears content with his situation and
his fare. it is true that we could even travel now on our
return as far as the timbered country reaches, or to the falls of
the river; but further it would be madness for us to attempt to
proceede untill April, as the indians inform us that the snows
lye knee deep in the plains of Columbia during the winter, and
in these plains we could scarcely get as much fuel of any kind
as would cook our provision as we descended the river; and
even were we happyly over these plains and again in the woody
country at the foot of the Rocky Mountains we could not
possibly pass that immence barrier of mountains on which the
snows ly in winter to the debth in many places of 20 feet; in
short the Indians inform us that they are impracticable untill
about the 1st. of June, at which time even there is an abundance
of snow but a scanty subsistence may be obtained for the horses.
we should not therefore forward ourselves on our homeward
journey by reaching the rocky mountains. early than the 1st. of
June, which we can easily effect by seting out from hence on
the 1st. of April.

The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the common
streight net, the scooping or diping net with a long handle,
the gig, and the hook and line. the common net is of different
lengths and debths usually employed in taking the sammon,
Carr [cherr] and trout in the inlets among the marshey grounds
and the mouths of deep creeks the skiming or [s]cooping
net to take small fish in the spring and summer season; the
gig and hook are employed indiscriminately at all seasons in
taking such fish as they can procure by their means. their nets
and fishing lines are made of the silk-grass or white cedar bark;
and their hooks are generally of European manufactory, tho' before
the whites visited them they [ILLUSTRATION] made hooks
of bone and other substances formed in
the following manner A C, and C.B. are two


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small pieces of bone about the size of a strong twine, these are
flattened and leveled off of their extremities near C. where
they are firmly attatched together with sinues and covered with
rosin. CA. is reduced to a sharp point at A where it is also
bent in a little; C B. is attatched to the line, for about half
it's length at the upper extremity B. the whole forming two
sides of an accute angled triangle.

[Clark:]

Saturday [Thursday] 16th. January 1806

This evening we finished cureing the meat. no occurrence
worthey of relation took place to day. we have a plenty of
Elk beef for the present and a little salt, our houses dry and
comfortable, haveing made up our minds to Stay untill the
1st. of April every one appears contented with his Situation, and
his fare. it is true we could travel even now on our return as
far as the timbered Country reaches, or to the falls of the river,
but further it would be madness for us to attempt to proceed
untill april, as the indians inform us that the Snows lyes Knee
deep in the Columbian Plains dureing the winter, and in those
planes we could not git as much wood as would cook our provisions
untill the drift wood comes down in the Spring and
lodges on the Shore &c. and even were we happily over those
plains and in the woodey Countrey at the foot of the rockey
Mountains
, we could not possibly pass that emence bearier of
Mountains on which the snow lyes in winter to the debth in
maney plac[e]s of 20 feet; in Short the Indians tell us they
[are] impassable untill about the 1st. of June, at which time even
then is an abundance of snow but a Scanty Subsistance may be
had for the horses. We Should [not] fo[r]ward our homeward
journey any by reaching the Rocky Mountains earlier
than the 1st. of June which we can effect by Setting out from
hence by the 1st. of April.

The Clatsops, Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the common
Streight net, the scooping or dipping net with a long handle,
the gig, and the hook and line. the common nets are of
different lengths and debths usually employd in takeing the
Salmon, Carr and trout in the inlets among the marshey


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grounds and the mouths of deep Creeks, the Skiming or
[s]cooping nets to take Smaller fish in the Spring and Summer
Season; the gig and hook are employed indiscreminately at all
Seasons in takeing Such fish as they can precure by these
means. their nets and fishing lines are made of the Silk Grass
or White Cedar bark; and their hooks are generally of European
Manufactory, tho' before the whites visited them they made
their Hooks of bone and other Substances formed in the
following Manner [ILLUSTRATION] AC and BC are two
Small pieces of bone about the Size of a
Strong twine, these are flattened & beaveled
off to their extremites at C. where they are firmley attached
together and Covered with rozin CA is reduced to a Sharp
point at A where it is also bent in a little; CB is attached to
the line, at the upper extremity B. the whole forming two Sides
of an accute angled triangle. the [line] has a loop at D [by]
which it is anexed to a longer line and taken off at pleasure.
Those Hooks are yet common among' the nativs on the upper
parts of the Columbia river for to Catch fish in Deep places.

[Lewis:]

Saturday (Friday) January 17th. 1806.

This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7 of the
Clatsops our nearest neighbours, who left us again in the
evening. They brought with them some roots and buries for
sale, of which however they disposed of but very few as they
asked for them such prices as our stock in trade would not
license us in giving. the Chief Comowool gave us some roots
and buries for which we gave him in return a mockerson awl
and some thread; the latter he wished for the purpose of making
a skiming net. one of the party was dressed in t[h]ree
very eligant Sea Otter skins which we much wanted; for these
we offered him many articles but he would not dispose of them
for any other consideration but blue beads, of these we had
only six fathoms left, which being 4 less than his price for each
skin he would not exchange nor would a knife or an equivalent
in beads of any other colour answer his purposes, these coarse
blue beads are their f [av]orite merchandize, and are called by


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them tia Commáshuck′ or Chiefs beads. the best wampum is not
so much esteemed by them as the most inferior beads. Sent
Coalter out to hunt this morning, he shortly after returned
with a deer, venison is a rarity with us we have had none for
some weeks. Drewyer also set out on a hunting excertion and
took one man with him. he intends both to hunt the Elk and
trap the beaver.

The Culinary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood
consist of wooden bowls or throughs, baskets, wooden spoons
and woden scures or spits. Their wooden bowls and troughs
are of different forms and sizes, and most generally dug out of
a solid piece; they are ither round or semi-globular, in the
form of a canoe, cubic, and cubic at top terminating in a globe
at bottom; these are extreemly well executed and many of them
neatly carved, the larger vessels with hand-holes to them; in
these vessels they boil their fish or flesh by means of hot stones
which they immerce in the water with the article to be boiled.
they also render the oil of fish or other anamals in the same
manner. their baskets are formed of cedar bark and beargrass
so closely interwoven with the fingers that they are watertight
without the aid of gum or rosin; some of these are highly
ornamented with strans of beargrass which they dye of several
colours and interweave in a great variety of figures; this serves
them the double perpuse of holding their water or wearing on
their heads; and are of different capacities from that of the
smallest cup to five or six gallons; they are generally of a
conic form or reather the segment of a cone of which the
smaller end forms the base or bottom of the basket. these
they make very expediciously and dispose off for a mear trifle.
it is for the construction of these baskets that the beargrass
becomes an article of traffic among the natives this grass
grows only on their high mountains near the snowey region;
the blade is about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2 feet long, smoth
pliant and strong; the young blades which are white from not
being exposed to the sun or air, are those most commonly
employed, particularly in their neatest work. Their spoons
are not remarkable nor abundant, they are generally large and
the bole brawd. their meat is roasted with a sharp scure, one


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end of which is incerted in the meale with the other is set erect
in the ground. the spit for roasting fish has it's upper extremity
split, and between it's limbs the center of the fish is
inscerted with it's head downwards and the tale and extremities
of the scure secured with a string, the sides of the fish, which
was in the first instance split on the back, are expanded by
means of small splinters of wood which extend crosswise the
fish. a small mat of rushes or flags is the usual plate or dish
on which their fish, flesh, roots or burries are served. they
make a number of bags and baskets not watertight of cedar
bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags and common coarse sedge. in
these they secure their dryed fish, roots, buries. &c.

[Clark:]

Sunday [Friday] 17th. January 1806

This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7 of the
Clatsops our nearest neighbours, who left us again in the
evening. They brought with them Some roots and beries for
Sale, of which however they disposed of very fiew as they
asked for them Such prices as our Stock in trade would not
licence us in giveing. The chief Comowool gave us some
roots and berries, for which we gave him in return a Mockerson
awl and some thread; the latter he wished for the purpose
of makeing a Skiming net. one of the party was dressed in
three verry elegant Sea otter Skins which we much wanted;
for these we offered him maney articles but he would not dispose
of them for aney other Consideration but Blue beeds,
of those we had only Six fathoms left, which being 4 less than
his price for each Skin he would not exchange nor would a
Knife or any other equivalent in beeds of aney other Colour
answer his purpose, these Coarse blue beeds are their favourite
Merchandize and are Called by them Tia com ma shuck or chief
beeds, the best Wampom is not as much esteemed by them
as the most indifferent beeds. Sent Colter out to hunt he
Shortly after returned with a Deer, Venison is a rarity with us
we have had none for Some weeks. Drewyer Set out on a
hunting expedition one man went with him. he intends to
hunt the Elk and trap the beaver.


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The Culianary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood
consists of wooden bowls or troughs, Baskets, Shell and wooden
Spoons and wooden Scures or Spits, their wooden Bowles and
troughs are of different forms and Sizes, and most generally
dug out of Solid piecies; they are either round, Square or in
the form of a canoe; those are extreemly well executed and
maney of them neetly covered, the larger vessels with hand-holes
to them; in these vessels they boil their fish or flesh by
means of hot Stones which they immerce in the water with the
articles to be boiled. They also render the Oil of the fish, or
other animals in the same manner. Their baskets are formed
of Cedar bark and bargrass So closely interwoven withe hands
or fingers that they are watertight without the aid of gum or
rozin; Some of those are highly ornimented with the Strans
of bargrass which they dye of Several Colours and interweave
in a great variety of figures; this Serves a double purpose of
holding the Water or wareing on their heads; and are of different
capacities, from that of a Smallest cup to five or Six
gallons, they are generally of a Conic form or reather the
Segment of a Cone of which the Smaller end forms the base or
bottom of the basket. these they make verry expediciously
and dispose of for a mear trifle. it is for the construction of
those baskets that Bargrass becoms an article of traffic among
the nativs of the Columbia. this grass grows only on their
mountains near the Snowey region; the blade is about 3/8 of an
inch wide and 2 feet long Smothe plient and strong; the young
blades which are white from not being exposed to the Sun or
air, are those which are most Commonly employ'd, particularly
in their neatest work. Their wooden Spoons are not remarkable
nor abundant, they are large & the bowls broad. their
meat is roasted with a Sharp Scure, one end of which is incerted
in the meat while' the other is Set erect in the ground. The
Spit for roasting fish has its upper extremity Split, and between
its limbs the Center of the fish is incerted with its head downwards,
and the tale and the extremities of the Scure Secured
with a String, the Side[s] of the fish. which was in the first
instance Split in the back, are expanded by means of Small
Splinters of wood which extend Crosswise the fish, a Small


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mat of rushes or flags is the usual plate, or Dish on which
their fish, flesh, roots & berries are served, they make a
number of Bags and Baskets not water tight of Cedar bark
Silk Grass, rushes, flags, and common corse Sedge, in those
they Secure their dried fish, roots berries &c.

[Lewis:]

Sunday (Saturday) January 18th. 1806.

Two of the Clatsops who were here yesterday returned today
for a dog they had left; they remained with us a few hours and
departed. no further occurrence worthy of relation took place.
the men are still much engaged in dressing skins in order to
cloath themselves and prepare for our homeward journey.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c construct their houses of timber
altogether. they are from 14 to 20 feet wide and from 20 to
60 feet in length, and acommodate one or more families sometimes
three or four families reside in the same room. thes[e]
houses a[re] also divided by a partition of boards, but this
happens only in the largest houses as the rooms are always
large compared with the number of inhabitants. these houses
are constructed in the following manner; two or more posts
of split timber agreeably to the number of divisions or partitions
are furst provided, these are sunk in the ground at one
end and rise perpendicularly to the hight of 14 or 18 feet, the
tops of them are hollowed in such manner as to receive the
ends of a round beam of timber which reaches from one to
the other, most commonly the whole length of the building,
and forming the upper part of the roof; two other sets of
posts and poles are now placed at proper distances on either
side of the first, formed in a similar manner and parrallel to it;
these last rise to the intended hight of the eves, which is usually
about 5 feet. smaller sticks of timber are now provided and
are placed by pares in the form of rafters, resting on, and
reaching from the lower to the upper horizontal beam, to both
of which they are attatched at either end with the cedar bark;
two or three ranges of small poles are now placed horizontally
on these rafters on each side of the roof and are secured likewise
with strings of the Cedar bark. the ends sides and partitions


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are then formed with one range of wide boards of ab[o]ut
two inches thick, which are sunk in the ground a small distance
at their lower ends and stand erect with their upper ends laping
on the outside of the eve poles and end rafters to which they
are secured by an outer pole lying parallel with the eve poles
and rafters being secured to them by chords of cedar bark
which pass through wholes made in the boards at certain distances
for that purpose; the rough [roof] is then covered with
a double range of thin boards, and an aperture of 2 by 3 feet
is left in the center of the roof to permit the smoke to pass.
these houses are sometimes sunk to the debth of 4 or 5 feet
in which cace the eve of the house comes nearly to the surface
of the earth. in the center of each room a space of six by eight
feet square is sunk about twelve inches lower than the floor
having it's sides secured with four sticks of squar timber, in
this space they make their fire, their fuel being generally pine
bark. mats are spread arround the fire on all sides, on these
they set in the day and frequently sleep at night. on the inner
side of the ho[u]se on two sides and sometimes on three, there
is a range of upright peices about 4 feet removed from the wall;
these are also sunk in the ground at their lower ends, and
secured at top to the rafters, from these other peices ar extended
horizontally to the wall and are secured in the usual
method by bark to the upright peices which support the eve
poles. on these short horizontal pieces of which there are
sometimes two ranges one above the other, boards are laid,
which either form ther beads, or shelves on which to put their
goods and chattles of almost every discription. their uncured
fish is hung on sticks in the smoke of their fires as is also the
flesh of the Elk when they happen to be fortunate enough to
procure it which is but seldom.

[Clark:]

Monday [Saturday]18th. January 1806

Two of the Clatsops that were here yesterday returned to
day for a Dog they had left; they remained with us a fiew
hours and departed. no further accounts worthey of relation
took place. the men are much engaged dressing Skins in


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order to Cloath themselves and prepare for the homeward
journey.

The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. construct their Houses of timber
altogether. they are from 14 to 20 feet wide, and from 20 to
60 feet in length, and accomodate one or more families sometimes
three or four families reside in the Same room. this
house is also devided by petitions of Boards, but this happens
only in the largest houses, as the rooms are always large compared
with the number of inhabitents. those houses are
constructed in the following manner; two or more posts of
Split timber agreeably to the number of devisions or partitions
are first provided, these are Sunk in the ground at one end
and raised pirpindicular to the hight of 12 or 14 feet, the
top of them are hollowed So as to recive the end of a round
beem of timber which reaches from one to the other or the
entire length of the house; and forming the ridge pole; two
other Sets of posts and poles are then placed at proper distancies
on either Side of the first, formed in a Similar manner
and parrelal to it; those last rise to the intended hight of the
eves, which is usially about 5 feet, Smaller Sticks of timber
is then previded and are placed by pears in the form of rafters,
resting on, and reaching from the lower to the upper horizontial
beam, to both of which they are atached at either end
with the Cedar bark; two or 3 ranges of Small poles are then
placed Horizontially on these rafters on each Side of the roof
& are Secured likewise with Cedar bark. the ends, sides, and
partitions are then formed, with one range of wide boards
of about 2 inches thick, which are Sunk in the ground a
Small distance at their lower ends & stands erect with their
upper ends lapping on the out side of the eve poles and end
rafters to which they are secured by a outerpole lyeing parrelal
with the eve pole and rafters being Secured to them by cords
of Cedar bark which pass through wholes made in the bods at
certain distances for that purpose; the rough [roof] is then
Covered with a double range of thin boards, and an aperture
of 2 by 3 feet left in the center of the roof to admit the Smoke
to pass. These houses are commonly Sunk to the debth of 4
or 5 feet in which case the eve of the house comes nearly to


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the surface of the earth. in the center of each room a Space
of from 6 by 8 feet is Sunk about 12 inches lower than the
floar haveing its Sides Secured by four thick boards or Squar
pieces of timber, in this Space they make their fire, their fuel
being generally dry pine Split Small which they perform with
a peice of an Elks horn Sharpened at one end drove into the
wood with a Stone. Mats are Spred around the fire on all
Sides, on these they Sit in the day and frequently Sleep at
night, on the inner Side of the house on two Sides and Sometimes
on three, there is a range of upright pieces about 4 feet
removed from the wall; these are also Sunk in the ground
a[t] their lower end, and Secured at top to the rafters, from
those, other pieces are extended horozontially to the wall and
are Secured in the usial manner with bark to the upright
pieces which Support the eve pole. on these Short horizontial
peic[e]s of which there are Sometimes two ranges one
above the other, boards are laid, which either form their beads,
or Shelves on which to put their goods and Chattles, of almost
every discription. their uncured fish is hung on Sticks in the
Smoke of their fires as is also the flesh of the Elk when they
happen to be fortunate enough to precure it which is but seldom.

[Lewis:]

Monday (Sunday) January 19th. 1806.

This morning sent out two parties of hunters, consisting of
Collins and Willard whom we sent down the bay towards point
Adams, and Labuish and Shannon whom we sent up Fort
River;[15] the fi[r]st by land and the latter by water. we were
visited today by two Clatsop men and a woman who brought
for sale some Sea Otter skins of which we purchased one, giving
in exchange the remainder of our blue beads consisting of
6 fathoms and about the same quantity of small white beads and
a knife. we also purchased a small quantity of train oil for a
pair of Brass armbands and a hat for some fishinghooks. these
hats are of their own manufactory and are composed of Cedar
bark and bear grass interwoven with the fingers and ornimented


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with various colours and figures, they are nearly waterproof,
light, and I am convinced are much more durable than either
chip or straw. These hats form a small article of traffic with
the Clatsops and Chinnooks who dispose of them to the
whites. the form of the hat is that which was in vogue in the
Ued. States and great Britain in the years 1800 & 1801 with a
high crown reather larger at the top than where it joins the
brim; the brim narrow or about 2 or 2 ½ inches.

Several families of these people usually reside together in the
same room; they appear to be the father & mother and their
sons with their son's wives and children; their provision seems
to be in common and the greatest harmoney appears to exist
among them. The old man is not always rispected as the head
of the family, that duty most commonly devolves on one of
the young men. They have seldom more than one wife, yet
the plurality of wives is not denied them by their customs.
These families when ascociated form nations or bands of nations
each acknowledging the authority of it's own chieftain who
dose not appear to be heriditary, nor his power to extend
further than a mear repremand for any improper act of an
individual; the creation of a chief depends upon the upright
deportment of the individual & his ability and disposition to
render service to the community; and his authority or the
deference paid him is in exact equilibrio with the popularity or
voluntary esteem he has acquired among the individuals of his
band or nation. Their laws like those of all uncivilized Indians
consist of a set of customs which have grown out of their local
situations. not being able to speak their language we have not
been able to inform ourselves of the existence of any peculiar
customs among them.

 
[15]

The Netul, or Lewis and Clark River.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Tuesday [Sunday] 19th of January 1806

This morning Sent out two parties of hunters, one party
towards Point adams and the other party up Ne tel River by
water. We were visited to day by two Clatsop men and a
woman who brought for Sale Some Sea Otter Skins of which
we purchased one gave in exchange the remainder of our blue


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beeds Consisting of 6 fathoms, and the same quantity of small
white beids and a knife. we also purchased a Small quantity
of train oil for a par of Brass arm bands, and a hat for Some
fishinghooks. these hats are of their own manufactory and are
composed of Cedar bark and bear grass interwoven with the
fingers and ornimented with various colours and figures, they
are nearly water proof, light, and I am Convinced are much
more dureable than either Chip or Straw, These hats form a
article of traffic with Clatsops an[d] Chinnooks who dispose of
them to the Whites, the form of the Hats is that which was
in voge in the UStates and Great Britain in 1800 & 1801 with
a high crown rather larger at the top than where it joins the
brim, the brim narrow about 2 or 2 ½ inches.

Several families of those people usially reside together in the
Same room; they appear to be the father mother with their
Sons and their Sons wives and children; their provisions
appears to be in common and the greatest harmoney appears to
exist among them. the old man is not always respected as the
head of the family that duty generally devolves on one of the
young men. They have seldom more than one wife, yet
plurality of wives are not denyed them by their Customs.
those families when associated [form] bands of nations each
acknowledgeing the authority of its own chieftains, who does
not appear to be herititary, or has power to extend further than
a mear repremand for any improper deportment of the indevidual;
the creation of a chief depends upon the upright conduct
of the individual his abiltity and disposition to render
Service to the comunity, and his authority and the defference
paid him is in extent equilibrio with the popolarity or volintary
esteem he has acquired among the individuals of his bands, or
nation. Their Laws like all uncivilized Indians consist of a
Set of customs which has grown out of their local Situations.

Not being able to Speak their language we have not been
able to inform ourselves of the existance of any peculiar customs
among them.


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[Lewis:]

Tuesday (Monday) January 20th. 1806.

Visited this morning by three Clatsops who remained with
us all day; the object of their visit is mearly to smoke the pipe.
on the morning of the eighteenth we issued 6 lbs. of jirked Elk
pr. man, this evening the Sergt. reported that it was all exhausted;
the six lbs. have therefore lasted two days and a half
only. at this rate our seven Elk will last us only 3 days
longer, yet no one seems much concerned about the state of the
stores; so much for habit. we have latterly so frequently had
our stock of provisions reduced to a minimum and sometimes
taken a small touch of fasting that three days full allowance
excites no concern. In those cases our skill as hunters afford
us some consolation, for if there is any game of any discription
in our neighbourhood we can track it up and kill it. most of
the party have become very expert with the rifle. The Indians
who visited us today understood us sufficiently to inform us
that the whites did not barter for the pounded fish; that it was
purchased and consumed by the Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmahs
and Skillutes. The native roots which furnish a considerable
proportion of the subsistence of the indians in our
neighbourhood are those of a species of Thistle, fern, and rush;
the Liquorice, and a small celindric root the top of which I
have not yet seen, this last resembles the sweet pittatoe very
much in it's flavor and consistency.

[Clark:]

Wednesday [Monday] 20th. January 1806

Visited this morning by three Clapsots who remained with
us all day; the object of their visit is mearly to Smoke the pipe.
on the morning of the 18 inst. we issued 6lb. of jurked Meat
pr. man, this evening the Serjt. reports that is all exhosted; the
6lb. have therefore lasted 2 days and a half only. at this rate
our Seven Elk will only last us 3 days longer, yet no one
appears much concerned about the State of the Stores; So
much for habet. we have latterly so frequently had our Stock
of provisions reduced to a Minimum and Sometimes taken a
Small tuch of fasting that 3 days full allowance exites no concern.
In those cases our Skill as hunters affords us some consolation,


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for if there is any game of any description in our
neighbourhood we can track it up and kill it. Most of the
party have become very expert with the rifle. The Indians
who visit us to day understood us sufficiently to inform us that
the white[s] who visit them did not barter for the pounded fish;
that it was purchased and consumed by the Clatsops, Chinnooks,
Cath lâh mâhs and Skil lutes, and Kil a mox.

The native roots which furnish a considerable proportion of
the Subsistance of the indians in our neighbourhood are those
of a Species of Thistle, fern, and rush; the Licquorice, and a
Small celindric root the top of which I have not yet Seen, this
last resembles the Sweet potato verry Much in its flavour and
Consistency.

END OF VOL. III