University of Virginia Library

Chapter XVII

DOWN THE LOLO TRAIL

XVII. Clark's Journal, August 27—October 10, 1805
Entries by Lewis, September 9, 10, 18–22

[Clark:]

August 27th. Tuesday 1805.

SOME frost this morning every Man except one, out
hunting,[1] a young man Came from the upper Village
& informed me that Capt Lewis would join me abt. 12
oClock to day. one man killed a Small Sammon, and the
Indians gave me another which afforded us a Sleight brackfast.
Those Pore people are here depending on what fish they can
catch, without anything else to depend on; and appere contented,
my party hourly Complaining of their retched Situation
and [word illegible in MS.—Ed.] doubts of Starveing in
a Countrey where no game of any kind except a fiew fish can
be found, an Indian brough[t] in to the Camp 5 Sammon,
two of which I purchased which afforded us a Supper

August 28th Wednesday 1805

a frost this morning. The Inds. Cought out of their traps
Several Sammon and gave us two. I purchased two others
which we made last us to day. Several—a Camp of about
40 Indians came from the West fork and passed up to day,
nothing killed by my party with every exertion in all places
where game probably might be found. I dispatched one man[2]

to the upper Camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c.
he returned after night with a letter from Capt. Lewis informing
me of his Situation at the upper Village, and had precured 22
horses for our rout through by land on the plan which I had
preposed in which he agreed with me in; and requ[e]sted me
to ride up, and get the horses the Indians informed him they
had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe[3] of those
pore but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I
gave three Small fish hooks, the use of which they readily proseved;
one Indian out all day & killed only one Sammon with
his gig; My hunters killed nothing; I had three pack
Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Capt
Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live on
at present are pleasent eateing, notwithstanding they weaken
me verry fast and my flesh I find is declineing

Course Distance & [c.] over the portage from the Waters of the
Missouri to the Waters of the Columbia River.

                 

N. 60°. W.	5	Miles to a Point of a hill on the right Passed Several points of high land bottom wide only 3 Small trees
S. 80°. W	10	Miles to a place the high lands approach within 200 yards, Creek 10 yds. wide
S. W.	5	miles to a narrow part of the bottom passed a Creek on each Side, a place the Indians were masserced [massacred], a road coms in on the right
S. 70° W.	2	miles to a Creek on the right
S. 80°. W	3	Miles to a rockey point opsd. a Pine thicket on the left, passed a run from the right
West	3	Miles to the head Spring of the Missouri near the top of a deviding mountain at a gap
S. 80°. W	6	miles to a run from the right, passed Several Small Streams & Spring runs running to my left, and down a Drean,
N. 80°. W.	4	miles to the East fork of the Lewis's River 40 yds. Wide an Indian Snake Camp of 25 Lodges passed over hilley land all the way from, the deviding ridge.
Miles	38

August 29th. Thursday 1805

a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the South, I
left our baggage in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up
to join Capt Lewis at the upper Village of Snake Indians
where I arrived at 1 oClock found him much engaged in
Councelling[4] and attempting to purchase a fiew more horses.
I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring to
impress on theire minds the advantage it would be to them for
to sell us horses and expedite the [our] journey the nearest and
best way possibly that we might return as soon as possible
and winter with them at Some place where there was plenty of
buffalow, our wish is to get a horse for each man to carry
our baggage and for Some of the men to ride occasionally,
The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed
as to their Parsture, we cannot calculate on their carrying
large loads & feed on the Grass which we may calculate on
finding in the Mountain thro' which we may expect to pass on
our rout Made Some Selestial observations, the Latd. of this
part the Columbia River is [blank space in MS.] North.
Longtd [blank space in MS.] W.

I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 Balls
Powder & a Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their
Camp to day 2 yesterday & 3 the day before, this meet was
a great treat to me as I had eate none for 8 days past

August 30th. Friday 1805

a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no more
horse[s] than we had for our goods &c. (and those not a Sufficint
number for each of our Party to have one which is our
wish) I Gave my Fuzee to one of the men & Sold his musket
for a horse which Completed us to 29 total horses, we Purchased
pack cords Made Saddles & Set out on our rout down
the [Lemhi] river by land guided by my old guide [and] one

other who joined him, the old gu[i]de's 3 Sons followed him,
before we Set out our hunters killed three Deer proceeded
on 12 Miles and encamped on the river South Side.[5] at the
time we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater Part of
the Band Set out over to the waters of the Missouri. we had
great attention paid to the horses, as they were nearly all Sore
Backs, and Several pore, & young Those horses are indifferent,
maney Sore backs and others not acustomed to pack,
and as we cannot put large loads on them are Compelled to
purchase as maney as we can to take our Small propotion of
baggage of the Parties, (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on
12 Miles to day

August 31st.. 1805 Satturday.

A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we passed the
lodges at which place I had encamped for thre[e] nights and
left 2 men,[6] those 2 men joined us and we proceeded on in the
Same rout I decended the 21st. Instant, halted 3 hours on
Sammon Creek[7] to Let our horses graze the wind hard from
the S.W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with great
Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Enemies
were Coming down, armd. with guns &c. the inhabitents
of the Lodges indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on
which I had decended as far as the Ist run [Tower Cr.][8] below
& left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a tolerable road
4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodges at the place the road

leaves the Creek and assends the high Countrey Six Indians
followed us four of them the Sons of our guide, our hunters
killed one Deer a goose & Prarie fowl. This day warm and
Sultrey, Praries or open Valies on fire in Several places. The
Countrey is Set on fire for the purpose of Collecting the different
bands, and a Band of the Flat heads to go to the Missouri
where they intend passing the winter near the Buffalow
Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run[9]

Course and Distance by land from the Columbia River 14 miles
below the forks. August 31st 1805.

     

N. 35°. E	2	miles up Tower Creek to a hill
N. 10°. E	2	d°   d°   d° passed remarkable rock resembling Pirimids on the Left Side
	4

September 1st.. Sunday 1805

a fine morning Set out early and proceeded on over high
ruged hills passing the heads of the Small runs which fall into
the river on our left to a large Creek which falls into the river
6 miles to our left and encamped, in the bottom,[10] Some rain
to day at 12 and in the evening which obliges us to Continue
all night despatched 2 men to the mouth of the Creek to
purchase fish of the Indians at that place, they returned with
Some dried, we giged 4 Sammon & killed one Deer to Day.
the Countrey which we passed to day is well watered & broken
Pore Stoney hilly country except the bottoms of the Creek
which is narrow, all the Indians leave us except our Guide,
one man Shot two bear this evining unfortunately we Could
git neither of them

Septr 1st Sunday

                   

N. 80°. W	1 ½	Miles to the top of a high hill
N 65°. W	1 ½	to the of a hill passing the heads of dreans passing to our left
N. 55°. W.	3 ½	miles to the top of a high hill passd. two forks of a Crek, the first large & bold the 2d. Small
S. 80°. W.	1 ½	mile down a raveen to a run
N. 70°. W.	3 ½	to the top of a high hill passing a branch at ¼ & over a hill at 1 mile
N. 35°. W.	2 ½	to the top of a high hill
N. 25°. W.	1 ½	to ditto passed a branch at ½ mile which passes to the left
N. 80°. W.	2 ½	decending a Steep winding hill to a large Creek which we Call Fish Creek & runs into the river at Some lodge 6 miles below South[11]
N. 12°. W.	2	Miles up the Creek to a bluff Point.[12]
	20

September 2nd. Monday 1805

a Cloudy Morning, raind Some last night we Set out
early and proceeded on up the [Fish] Creek, Crossed a large
fork from the right and one from the left; and at 8 [7 ½] miles
left the roade on which we were pursuing and which leads over
to the Missouri,[13] and proceeded up a West fork [of Fish Creek]
without a roade preceded on thro' thickets in which we
were obliged to Cut a road, over rockey hill Sides where our
horses were in [per]peteal danger of Slipping to their certain
distruction & up & Down Steep hills, where Several horses
fell, Some turned over, and others Sliped down Steep hill Sides,
one horse Crippeled & 2 gave out. with the greatest dificuelty
risque &c. we made five miles 7 ½ & Encamped on the left
Side of the Creek in a Small Stoney bottom. after night
Some time before the rear Came up, one Load left about 2
miles back, the horse on which it was carried crippled. Some
rain at night

Septr. 2nd Monday

             

North	1 ½	to a large fork which falls in on the left in a pine bottom
N. 45°. E	2 ½	Miles to a large fork which falls in on the right Hills Covd. with Pine
North	3 ½	miles to the forks of the Creek passed a leavel pine bottom & pine hills maney beaver Dams across the Creek
N. 60°. W	2 ½	miles up the west fork leaving the road on our right which passes to the Missouri by the East fork
N. 35°. W	3	miles up the west fork Crossed it Several times & passing thro' thickets brush & over rocks.
N. 50°. W	2	miles over hills rocks & Steep points & hill Sides on the left of the Creek Crossing a run at 1 mile
	15

September 3rd.. Tuesday 1805

A Cloudy morning, horses verry Stiff Sent 2 men back
with the horse on which Capt Lewis rode for the load left back
last night which detained us untill 8 oClock at which time we
Set out. The Country is timbered with Pine Generally, the
bottoms have a variety of Srubs & the fur trees in Great
abundance, hills high & rockey on each Side, in the after
part of the day the high mountains closed the Creek on each
Side and obliged us to take on the Steep Sides of those Mountains,
So Steep that the horses Could Scur[ce]ly keep from
Slipping down, Several sliped & Injured themselves verry
much, with great dificuelty we made [blank space in MS.]
miles (about 8 m. see Courses & Dist) & Encamped on a branch
of the Creek we assended after crossing Several Steep points &
one mountain, but little to eate I killed 5 Pheasents & the
hunters 4 with a little Corn afforded us a kind of Supper, at
dusk it began to Snow, at 3 oClock Some rain. The mountains
(we had passed) to the East Covered with Snow. we
met with a great misfortune, in haveing our last Th[er] mometer
broken, by accident This day we passed over emence
hils and Some of the worst roads that ever horses passed, our
horses frequently fell Snow about 2 inches deep when it
began to rain which termonated in a Sleet [storm] our genl
Courses nearly North from the R

Septr. 3rd. Tuesday 1805

             

N. 25°. W.	2 ½	Miles to a Small fork on the left Hilley and thick assending
N. 15°. W.	2	miles to a fork on the right assending
N. 22°. W.	2 ½	miles to a fork on the left passing one on the left Several Spring runs on the right Stoney hills & much falling timber
N. 18°. E.	2	miles passing over Steep points & winding ridges to a high Point passed a run on the right
N. 32°. W.	2	miles to the top of a high hill passed 2 runs from the left, passing on the Side of a Steep ridge. no road
N. 40°. W	3	miles leaveing the waters of the Creek to the right & passing over a high pine Mountn. o the head of a Drean running to the left
	14

September 4th.. Wednesday 1805

a verry cold morning every thing wet and frosed, we [were]
detained untill 8 oClock to thaw the covering for the baggage
&c. &c. Groun[d] covered with Snow, we assended a
mountain & took a Divideing ridge[14] which we kept for Several
Miles & fell on the head of a Creek which appeared to
run the Course we wished to go, I was in front, & saw
Several of the Argalia or Ibex decended the mountain by
verry Steep decent takeing the advantage of the points and
best places to the Creek, where our hunters killed a Deer
which we made use of, and prosued our Course down the
Creek[15] to the forks about 5 miles where we met a part[y] of
the Tushepau nation, of 33 Lodges about 80 men 400 Total
and at least 500 horses, those people rec[e]ved us friendly,
threw white robes over our Sholders & Smoked in the pipes
of peace, we Encamped with them & found them friendly
but nothing but berries to eate a part of which they gave us,

those Indians are well dressed with Skin shirts & robes, they
[are] Stout & light complected more So than Common for
Indians, The Chief harangued untill late at night, Smoked
in our pipe and appeared Satisfied. I was the first white man
who ever wer on the waters of this river.[16]

September 4th. Wednesday 1805

         

N. 10°. W.	6	miles on a Direct Course over a high Snow mountain & down a Drean of Flat head River to a fork on the right. (our rout on a Dividing ridge to the right 9 ms. about. bad road
N. 18°. W.	3	down the run to a run on the left
N. 35°. W	3	miles down the run to the river which Coms from the East, a wide Vallie. 33 tents of Flat heads.[17]
mls.	12
	53 ½ [65]

September 5th. Thursday 1805

a cloudy morning we assembled the Chiefs & warriers and
Spoke to them (with much dificuel[t]y as what we Said had to
pass through Several languages before it got into theirs, which
is a gugling kind of language Spoken much thro the throught
[throat][18] ) we informed them who we were, where we came

from, where bound and for what purpose &c. &c. and requested
to purchase & exchange a fiew horses with them, in
the Course of the day I purchased 11 horses & exchanged 7
for which we gave a fiew articles of merchendize, those people
possess ellegant horses.[19] we made 4 Chiefs [to] whome we
gave meadels & a few Small articles with Tobacco, the
women brought us a few berries & roots to eate and the
Principal Chief a Dressed Brarow, Otter & two Goat & antilope
Skins

Those people wore their hair as follows the men Cewed
[queued] with otter Skin on each Side falling over the Sholders
forward, the women loose promisquisly over ther Sholders &
face long shirts which come to their anckles & tied with a
belt about their waste with a roabe over, the[y] have but fiew
ornaments and what they do were [wear] are Similar to the
Snake Indians, They Call themselves Eoote-lash-Schute (Oat
la shoot)[20] and consist of 450 Lodges in all and divided into
Several bands on the heads of Columbia river & Missouri,
Some low down the Columbia River

September 6th.. Friday 1805

Some little rain, purchased two fine horses & took a
Vocabelary of the language litened our loads & packed up,
rained contd. untill 12 oClock, we Set out at 2 oClock at
the Same time all the Indians Set out on their way to meet the
Snake Indians at the 3 forks of the Missouri. Crossed a
bmall river from the right we call (this was the main river or
Clarks) Soon after Setting out, also a Small Creek from the
North all three forks Comeing together below our Camp at
which place the Mountains Close on each Side of the river,
We proceeded on N 30 W. Crossed a Mountain and Struck
the river Several miles down, at which place the Indians had

Encamped two days before, we Proceeded on down the River
which is 30 yds. wide Shallow & Stoney Crossing it Several
times & Encamped in a Small bottom on the right side.
rained this evening nothing to eate but berries, our flour out,
and but little Corn, the hunters killed 2 pheasents only. all
our horses purchased of the flat heads (oote-lash-shutes) we
Secured well for fear of their leaveing of us, and Watched them
all night for fear of their leaving us or the Indians prosuing &
Steeling them.

Course Distance &c. Down Clark's river Septr. 6th. 1805

         

N. 30°. W.	5	miles crossing the river & a creek at 1 ½ m. & thro a vallie to the top of a mountain covered with pine
N. 80°. W.	1 ½	miles down a reveen & Steep hill Sides to the river at an old Encampment. a creek left
West	1 ½	miles down the Creek, bottoms narrow.
N. 35°. W.	2	miles down the River which is 25 yards wide passed a run on each side.
	10

September 7th. Satturday 1805

A Cloudy & rainie Day the greater Part of the day dark &
Drisley we proceeded on down the river thro a Vallie passed
Several Small Runs on the left (right) & 3 creeks on the left
The Vallie from 1 to 2 miles wide the Snow top mountains
to our left, open hilley Countrey on the right,[21] Saw 2 horses
left by the Indians those horses were as wild a[s] Elk. One
of our hunters came up this morning without his horse, in the
course of the night the horse broke loose & cleared out. we
did not make camp untill dark, for the want of a good place,
one of our hunters did not join us this evening. he haveing
killed an elk packed his horse & could not overtake us

Sepr. 7th Satturday 1805

           

N. 40°. W.	3	miles down the River aforesaid
N. 80°. W.	3	miles down the River to a large Creek on the left. bottoms narrow.
N. 45°. W.	4	down the river to a Creek on the left. bottoms wider, hills on the right is bald, mountains on our left is high and the tops Covered with Snow.
North	4	miles to a Creek which runs from the Snow toped mountains, passed one on the left at I mile & Several Small runs on the right, and left, one Drean
N. 25°. E.	8	miles down the River, passed a large Creek on the left at 2 miles. the Vallie thro which we passed about 2 miles wide, lands pore & Stoney The foot of the Snow toped mountains approach near the river on the left the river 50 yards wide Shallow & Stoney. no fish to be Seen. 2 Deer 2 crains & 2 Phesents killed to day.[22]
	22

September 8th. Sunday 1805

a Cloudy morning Set out early and proceeded on through
an open Vallie for 23 miles passed 4 Creeks on the right Some
runs on the left, the bottoms as also the hills Stoney bad
land, Some pine on the Creeks and mountains, an[d] partial
on the hills to the right hand Side two of our hunters came
up with us at 12 oClock with an Elk, & Buck, the wind
from the N.W. & Cold. The foot of the Snow mountains
approach the River on the left Side. Some Snow on the
mountain to the right also, proceeded on down the Vallie
which is pore Stoney land and encamped on the right Side of
the river a hard rain all the evening we are all Cold and
wet. on this part of the river (on the head of Clarks River) I
observe great quantities of a peculiar Sort of Prickly peare
grow in Clusters ovel & about the Size of a Pigions egge with
strong thorns which is So birded [bearded] as to draw the

Pear from the Cluster after penetrating our feet. Drewyer
killed a Deer, I killed a prarie fowl we found 2 mears and
a Colt, the mears were lame, we ventered to let our late
purchase of horses loose to night

September 8th. Sunday

     

North	11	miles to a small run on the right Side, passed a large Creek at I mile one at 4 miles & a Small one at 8 miles, thro' a open Vally of 4 or 5 miles wide Call'd Horse Vally
N. 12°. W	12	through the Said Vallie to a large Creek from the right divided into 4 different Channels, i. e. scattered Creek[23]
	23

[Lewis:][24]

Monday September 9th. 1805.

Set out at 7 A.M. this morning and proceeded down the
Flathead river leaving it on our left, the country in the valley
of this river is generally a prarie and from five to 6 miles wide
the growth is almost altogether pine principally of the long-leafed
kind, with some spruce and a kind of furr resembleing
the scotch furr. near the wartercourses we find a small proportion
of the narrow leafed cottonwood; some redwood
honeysuckle and rosebushes form the scant proportion of
underbrush to be seen. at 12 we halted on a small branch
which falls into the river on the E. side, where we breakfasted
on a scant proportion of meat which we had reserved from
the hunt of yesterday added to three geese which one of our
hunters killed this morning. two of our hunters have arrived,
one of them brought with him a redheaded woodpecker of the
large kind common to the U States. this is the first of the
kind I have seen since I left the Illinois. just as we were
seting out Drewyer arrived with two deer. we continued our
rout down the valley about 4 miles and crossed the river; it
is hear a handsome stream about 100 yards wide and affords

a considerable quantity of very clear water, the banks are low
and it's bed entirely gravel. the stream appears navigable,
but from the circumstance of their being no sammon in it I
believe that there must be a considerable fall in it below. our
guide could not inform us where this river discharged itself
into the columbia river, he informed us that it continues it's
course along the mountains to the N. as far as he knew it and
that not very distant from where we then were it formed a
junction with a stream nearly as large as itself which took it's
rise in the mountains near the Missouri to the East of us and
passed through an extensive valley generally open prarie which
forms an excellent pass to the Missouri.[25] the point of the
Missouri where this Indian pass intersects it, is about 30 miles
above the gates of the rocky Mountain, or the place where the
valley of the Missouri first widens into an extensive plain after
entering the rockey Mountains. the guide informed us that
a man might pass to the missouri from hence by that rout in
four days. we continued our rout down the W. side of the
river about 5 miles further and encamped on a large creek
which falls in on the West. as our guide inform [ed] me that
we should leave the river at this place and the weather appearing
settled and fair I determined to halt the next day rest our
horses and take some scelestial Observations. we called this
Creek Travellers rest.[26] it is about 20 yards wide a fine bould
clear runing stream the land through which we passed is but
indifferent a could white gravley soil. we estimate our journey
of this day at 19. M.

at the creek where we dined I took the Meridian Altd. of ☉'s U. L.
with Sextant fore obstn. 98°. 1′. 30″.

Latitude deduced from this Observation 46°. 41′. 38.9

Point of observation No. 46.

At our encampment of this evening observed time and distance of
the Moon's western limb from a Aquila *. West. with Sextant.

             

	Time	Distance		Time	Distance
	h   m   s			h   m   s
P.M.	9. 52. 47.	63°. 33′. -″	P.M.	10. 6. 1.	63°. 38. 30
	". 56. 58.	". 35. 15		". 7. 46.	". 39. 45
	". 59. 41.	". 36. 30		" 9. 24.	". 40. 30
	10. 3. 48.	". 37. 45		" 11. 2.	". 41. –
	". 6. 1.	". 38. 30		" 13. 27.	". 41. 45

this set of observations cannot be much depended on as through
mistake I brought the Moons Western limb in contact with the star,
instead of her Eastern limb she having passed into her third quarter and
of course her Western limb somewhat imperfect.

[Clark:]

September 9th. Monday 1805.

a fair morning Set out early and proceeded on thro' a
plain as yesterday down the valley Crossed a large Creek
(called) Scattering (on which Cotton trees grew) at 1 ½ miles,
a Small one at 10 miles, both from the right, the main river
at 15 miles & Encamped on a large Creek from the left which
we call Travelers rest Creek. killed 4 deer & 4 Ducks & 3
prarie fowls. day fair Wind NW. (See Suplement)

September 9th. Monday

       

N. 15°. W.	15	miles Thro a open vallie to the River, leaveing the road to our right Crossed a Small Creek from the left at 9 miles, and the river which is 100 yards wide, & passed through a pine bottom after Crossing the (Clarks) River
N. 40°. W.	2	miles passing thro' a pine bottom after crossing the river to a large road on the left of the river in an open Vallie
N. 10°. W.	4	miles Through an open Valle to a large Creek from the left. (caled Travelers rest and Encamped the 9th. & 10th.
	21

9th. Septr. Contd.

 

North

12

Miles to the mouth of a lark [large] fork which Joins from the right and heads up near the Missouri Some distance below the 3 forks, this River has extinsive Vallies and is a good rout to the Missouri which the Indians say may be traveled in 4 days and is a good rout. The Vallie near the mouth of this fork is about 7 or 8 miles wide leavel & open, but little timber on this fork in Sight.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday September 10th. 1805.

The morning being fair I sent out all the hunters, and directed
two of them to precede down the river as far as it's
junction with the Eastern fork which heads near the missouri,
and return this evening. this fork of the river we determined
to name the Valley plain river. (we called the Eastern fork
of Clarkes river.) I think it most probable that this river
continues it's course along the rocky Mts. Northwardly as far
or perhaps beyond the scources of Medecine river and then
turning to the West falls into the Tacootchetessee.[27] The
Minetares informed us that there wass a large river west of,
and at no great distance from the sources of Medicine river,
which passed along the Rocky Mountains from S. to N. this
evening one of our hunters returned accompanyed by three
men of the Flathead nation whom he had met in his excurtion
up travellers rest Creek. on first meeting him the Indians
were alarmed and prepared for battle with their bows and arrows,
but he soon relieved their fears by laying down his gun
and advancing towards them. the Indians were mounted on
very fine horses of which the Flatheads have a great abundance;
that is, each man in the nation possesses from 20 to a
hundred head. our guide could not speake the language of
these people but soon engaged them in conversation by signs
or jesticulation, the common language of all the Aborigines of
North America, it is one understood by all of them and appears
to be sufficiently copious to convey with a degree of certainty
the outlines of what they wish to communicate. in this
manner we learnt from these people that two men which they
supposed to be of the Snake nation had stolen 23 horses from
them and that they were in pursuit of the theaves. they told
us they were in great hast, we gave them some boiled venison,

of which the[y] eat sparingly, the sun was now set, two
of them departed after receiving a few small articles which we
gave them, and the third remained, having agreed to continue
with us as a guide, and to introduce us to his relations whom
he informed us were numerous and resided in the plain below
the mountains on the columbia river, from whence he said the
water was good and capable of being navigated to the sea;
that some of his relation[s] were at the sea last fall and saw
an old whiteman who resided there by himself and who had
given them some handkerchiefs such as he saw in our possession.
he said it would require five sleeps[28]

[Clark:]

September 10th.. Tuesday 1805.

A fair morning Concluded to Delay to day and make
Some observations, as at this place the rout which we are to
prosue will pass up the Travelers rest Creek, The day proved
fair and we took equal altitudes & some luner observations.
The Latd 46° – 48′ – 28″ as the guide report[s] that no game
is to be found on our rout for a long ways, ads an addition
to the cause of our delay to precure Some meat, despatched
all our hunters in different directions, to hunt the
Deer which is the only large game to be found they killed
4 deer a Beaver & 3 Grouse which was divided, one of the
hunters Colter, met with 3 flatheads [Tushapaw] Indians who
were in pursuit of 2 Snake Indians that hade taken from ther
Camps on the Columbia [head of Kooskooske] River 21 horses,
Those Indians came with Colter to our Camp & informed by
Signs of their misfortune & the rout to their villages &c. &c.
one of them Concluded to return with us. I (we) gave them
a ring fish hook & tied a pece of ribin in the hare of each,
which appeared to please them verry much, Cap Lewis gave
them a Steel & a little Powder to make fire, after eating 2 of
them proceeded on in pursute of their horses. men all much
engaged preparing mockersons &c. &c. The Countrey about
this place is already described in that above.

[Clark:]

September 11th Wednesday 1805.

A fair morning wind from the NW we set out at 3 oClock
and proceeded on up the Travelers rest Creek accompanied by
the Flat head (or Tushapaws) Indian about 7 miles below
this Creek a large fork comes in from the right and heads up
against the waters of the Missouri below the three forks, this
river has extensive Vallies of open leavel land, "and passes in
its Whole Course thro' a Valie" they call it Valie Plain
River (Chicarlusket we call it the east fork of Clark's river)
our guide tels us a fine large roade passes up this river to the
Missouri. The loss of 2 of our horses detained us unl. 3
oClock. P.M. our Flat head Indian being restless thought
proper to leave us and proceed on alone, Sent out the hunters
to hunt in advance as usial. (we have Selected 4 of the
best hunters to go in advance to hunt for the party. This
arrangement has been made long since) we proceeded on up
the Creek [Travelers rest] on the right [hand] Side [left bank]
thro a narrow valie and good road for 7 miles and Encamped
at Some old Indian Lodges, nothing killed this evening
hills on the right high & ruged, the mountains on the left
high & Covered with Snow. The day Verry worm

[Courses & distances] September 11th Tuesday, 1805[29]

   

S. 45°. E.	1 ½	miles up Travelers rest Creek to a road which passes up on the lower side & is the road to the Missouri
West	5 ½	miles up the Creek on the right side hills on the right high & rugid Snow toped mountains on the left & we passed in the vallie which is about ½m Wide[30]

[Clark:]

September 12th.. Thursday 1805.

a white frost Set out at 7 oClock & proceeded on up the
Creek, passed a Fork on the right on which I saw near an old
Indian encampment a Swet (Sweat) house Covered with earth,
at 2 miles assended a high hill & proceeded through a hilley

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping places,
September 11, 12, 1805.

and thickly timbered Countrey for 9 miles & on the Right
[hand side] of the Creek, passing Several branches from the
right of fine Clear water and Struck at a fork at which place
the road forks, one passing up each fork. The Timber is
Short & long leaf Pine Spruce Pine & fur. The road through
this hilley Countrey is verry bad passing over hills & thro'
Steep hollows, over falling timber &c. &c. continued on &
passed Some most intolerable road on the Sides of the Steep
Stoney mountains, which might be avoided by keeping up
the Creek which is thickly covered with under groth & falling
timber,[31] Crossed a Mountain 8 miles with out water & encamped
on a hill Side on the Creek after Decending a long
Steep mountain, Some of our Party did not get up untill 10
oClock P M. I mad[e] camp at 8 on this roade & particularly
on this Creek the Indians have pealed a number of Pine
for the under bark which they eate at certain Seasons of the
year, I am told in the Spring they make use of this bark
our hunters Killed only one Pheasent this afternoon. Party
and horses much fatigued.

[Courses and distances] Septr. 12th

   

N. W	11	miles to the forks of the Creek road passing through a hilley countrey thickly timbered with the long leaf short leaf Spruce Pine crossed 6 branches which runs from the left the Ist the largest Killed 3 [words illegible] [this morning Dined at the forks, passed a Hot hous covd with Earth on the Ist fork.
S. 75°. W	12	miles to the Creek striking the creek at 4 mile and passing over a high mountain for 8 miles no water the hills steep & rockey & thickly timbered [one line illegible]

September 13th Wednesday (Friday) 1805

a cloudy morning Capt Lewis and one of our guides lost
their horses, Capt Lewis & 4 men detained to hunt the
horses, I proceeded on with the partey up the Creek at
2 miles passed Several Springs which I observed the Deer

Elk &c. had made roads to, and below one of the Indians had
made a whole to bathe, I tasted this water and found it hot
& not bad tasted The last [blank space in MS.] in further
examonation I found this water nearly boiling hot at the
places it Spouted from the rocks (which [are] a hard Corse
Grit, and of great size the rocks on the Side of the Mountain
of the Same texture) I put my finger in the water, at
first could not bare it in a Second.[32] as Several roads led from
these Springs in different derections, my guide took a wrong
road and took us out of our rout 3 miles through intolerable
rout, after falling into the right road I proceeded on thro [a]
tolerable rout for abt. 4 or 5 miles and halted to let our horses
graze as well as wate for Capt Lewis who has not yet come
up, The pine Countrey falling timber &c. &c. Continue.
This Creek is verry much damed up with the beaver, but we
can see none, dispatched two men back to hunt Capt Lewis
horse, after he came up, and we proceeded over a mountain to
the head of the Creek which we left to our left and at 6 miles
from the place I nooned it, we fell on a Small Creek from the
left which Passed through open glades Some of which [were]
½ a mile wide; we proceeded down this Creek about 2 miles
to where the mountains Closed on either Side crossing the
Creek Several times & Encamped.[33]

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping places,
September 13–16, 1805.

One Deer & Some Pheasants killed this morning, I shot
4 Pheasents of the Common Kind except the tale was black.
The road over the last mountain was thick Steep & Stoney as
usial, after passing the head of Travelers rest Creek, the
road was verry fine leavel open & firm Some mountains in
view to the SE & SW Covered with Snow.

Course & Distance &c. Septr. 13th.. 1805

       

S. W.	2	miles up the Said Creek through an emencely bad road, rocks, steep hill sides & fallen timber inumerable The snow toped mountains at a long distance from S W to S E none else to be seen in any other Directions to hot springs on the right. Those springs come out in maney places in the rocks and nearly boiling hot
S. 30°. W.	3	miles to the creek passed a round about of 3 miles to our left of intolerable road timber &c as usial halted to noon it & wate for Capt Lewis who lost his horse
S. 30°. W.	7	miles over a mountain & a Dividing ridge of flat gradey [gladey] land to a Creek from the left passing thro a glade of ½ a mile in width, keeping down the Creek 2 mile & Encamped. The country as usial except the Glades which is open & boggey, water clare and sandey. Snow toped mountains to the S E. at the head of this Creek which we call [blank in MS.] Creek. The after part of the day cloudy. I killed 4 Pheasents & Shields killed a Black tail Deer. a horse found in the glades left lame by some Indians &c.
m	12

September 14th Thursday (Saturday) 1805

a cloudy day in the Valies it rained and hailed, on the top
of the mountains Some Snow fell we Set out early and Crossed
a high mountain on the right of the Creek for 6 miles to the
forks of the Glade Creek (one of the heads of the Koos koos kee)

the right hand fork which falls in is about the size of the other,
we crossed to the left Side at the forks, and crossd a verry high
Steep mountain for 9 miles to a large fork from the left which
appears to head in the Snow toped mountains Southerley and
S.E. we Crossd. Glade Creek above its mouth, at a place the
Tushepaws or Flat head Indians have made 2 Wears across
to Catch Sammon and have but latterly left the place I could
see no fish, and the grass entirely eaten out by the horses, we
proceeded on 2 miles & Encamped opposit a Small Island at
the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river which is
at this place 80 yards wide, Swift and Stoney, here we were
compelled to kill a Colt for our men & Selves to eat for the
want of meat & we named the South fork Colt killed Creek,[34]
and this river we Call Flat head River the flat head name is
Koos koos ke The Mountains which we passed to day much
worst than yesterday the last excessively bad & thickly Strowed
with falling timber & Pine Spruce fur Hackmatak & Tamerack,[35]
Steep & Stoney our men and horses much fatigued, The
rain [blank space in MS.]

Course Distance &c. Sept. 14th.. 1805

         

S. 20°. W.	6	miles over a high mountain countrey thickley covered with pine to the forks of the Creek one of equal size from the right side, passed much falling timber this Mountain is covered with Spruce & Pitch pine fir, & what is called to the Northard Hackmatack & Tamerack, The Creeks are verry stoney and has much fall
S. 60°. W.	9	miles over a high mountain steep & almost inaxcessible much falling timber which fatigues our men & horses
S. 60°. W		exceedingly, in stepping over so great a number of logs added to the steep assents and decents of the mountains to the forks of the Creek, the one on our left which we had passed down falling into one still larger from the left which heads in the Snowey Mountains to the S. E. & South, those two Creeks form a river of 80 yards wide, containing much water, verry stoney and rapid. The Creek we came Down I call Glade Creek. the left hand fork the Killed Colt Creek from our killing a Colt to eate, above the mouth of Glade fork, the Flatheads has a were [weir] across to catch sammon [one line in MS. gone]
S. 70°. W	2	miles down the [blank space in MS.] River to the mouth of a run on the right side opposit an Island & camped turned our horses on the Island rained snowed & hailed the greater part of the day all wet and cold
	m 17

Wednesday (Sunday) Septr. 15th. 1805

We set out early, the morning Cloudy and proceeded on
Down the right Side of (koos koos kee) River over Steep points
rockey & buschey as usial for 4 miles to an old Indian fishing
place,[36] here the road leaves the river to the left and assends a
mountain winding in every direction to get up the Steep assents
& to pass the emence quantity of falling timber which had
[been] falling from dift. causes i e fire & wind and has deprived
the greater part of the Southerley Sides of this mountain of its
green timber, 4[37] miles up the mountain I found a Spring and
halted for the rear to come up and to let our horses rest &
feed, [in] about 2 hours the rear of the party came up much
fatigued & horses more So, Several horses Sliped and roled
down Steep hills which hurt them verry much the one which
Carried my desk & Small trunk Turned over & roled down a
mountain for 40 yards & lodged against a tree, broke the Desk

the horse escaped and appeared but little hurt Some others
verry much hurt, from this point I observed a range of high
mountains Covered with Snow from S E. to S W with their
tops bald or void of timber, after two hours delay we proceeded
on up the mountain Steep & ruged as usial, more
timber near the top, when we arrived at the top As we Conceved,
we could find no water and Concluded to Camp and
make use of the Snow we found on the top to cook the remns. of
our Colt & make our Supe, evening verry cold and cloudy.
Two of our horses gave out, pore and too much hurt to proceed
on and left in the rear. nothing killed to day except 2 Phests.

From this mountain I could observe high ruged mountains
in every direction as far as I could see. with the greatest exertion
we could only make 12 miles up this mountain (and encamped
on the top of the mountain near a Bank of old Snow about
3 feet deep lying on the Northern Side of the mountain and in Small
banks on the top & leavel parts of the mountain, we melted the
Snow to drink, and cook our horse flesh to eat).

September 15th.. Friday 1805

     

West	4	mile down the creek bottoms Passing over 4 steep high hills to a run at an old Indian Camp at a fishing place, where we wer some time e'er we found the proper road which assends a high mountain road excessively bad. I take the wrong road
N. W.	4	miles assending a high steep ruged mountain winding in every direction, the timber has been burnt & lies in every direction, several horses roled down much hurt my portable desk broken, from the top of those mountains a snow mountain from S E to S W. we leave the river to our left hand, found a spring on the top of the mountain where we halted to Dine & wate for the party. rained
N. W.	4/12	miles assend a steep ruged mountain passing over high stoney knobs maney parts bare of timber, the[y] haveing burnt it down & as it lies on the ground in every direction we could find no water deturmined to camp as it was late and make use of snow for to boil our coalt meat & make supe. we camped on a high Finical of the mountain Two of our horses gave out to day and left. the road as bad as it can possibly be to pass.

Saturday (Monday) Septr. 16th. 1805

began to Snow about 3 hours before Day and continued all
day the Snow in the morning 4 inches deep on the old Snow,
and by night we found it from 6 to 8 inches deep, I walked
in front to keep the road and found great dificuelty in keeping
it as in maney places the Snow had entirely filled up the track,
and obliged me to hunt Several minits for the track, at 12
oClock we halted on the top of the mountain to worm & dry
our Selves a little as well as to let our horses rest and graze a
little on Some long grass which I observed, (on) The (South)
Knobs Steep hill Sides & falling timber Continue to day, and
a thickly timbered Countrey of 8 different kinds of pine, which
are so covered with Snow, that in passing thro' them we are
continually covered with Snow,[38] I have been wet and as cold
in every part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was at one time
fearfull my feet would freeze in the thin Mockirsons which I
wore, after a Short Delay in the middle of the Day,[39] I took
one man and proceeded on as fast as I could about 6 miles to
a Small branch passing to the right, halted and built fires for
the party agains[t] their arrival which was at Dusk, verry cold
and much fatigued, we Encamped at this Branch in a thickly
timbered bottom which was scurcely large enough for us to lie
leavil, men all wet cold and hungary. Killed a Second Colt
which we all Suped hartily on and thought it fine meat.

I saw 4 (Black tail) Deer to day (before we set out which came
up the mountain) and what is singular Snaped 7 times at a large
buck. it is singular as my gun has a Steel fuzee and never
Snaped 7 times before, in examining her found the flint loose.
to describe the road of this day would be a repitition of yesterday
except the Snow which made it much worse (to prosue as we

had in maney places to derect our way by the appearence of the rubbings
of the Packs[40] against the trees which have limbs quiet low
and bending downwards)

Septr. 16th.. Satturday 1805
Course &c.

   

S. 75°. W	13	miles over the mountain passing emince Dificuelt knobs stoney much falling timber and emencely steep with great dificulty we proseeded on. The snow began to fall about 3 hours before Day and contd. all day. I found great dificulty in finding the road in the evining as the snow had fallen from 6 to 8 Inches deep, verry cold and the pine which in maney places verry thick so covered with snow, as in passing I became wet, discover 8 distinct kinds of pine on those mountains We encamped on a small branch running to the right. Killed a Coalt & eate it
	13

Sunday (Tuesday) 17th. Septr. 1805

Cloudy morning our horses much Scattered which detained
us untill one oClock P. M. at which time we Set out (the
falling Snow &) Snow falling from the trees which kept us wet
all the after noon passed over Several high ruged Knobs and
Several dreans & Springs passing to the right, & passing on,
the ridge devideing the waters of two Small rivers. road exceesively
bad Snow on the Knobs, no Snow in the Vallies
Killed a fiew Pheasents which was not sufficient for our Supper
which compelled us to kill Something, a Coalt being the most
useless part of our Stock he fell a Prey to our appetites. The
after part of the day fare, we made only 10 miles to day two
horses fell & hurt themselves very much we Encamped on
the top of a high Knob of the mountain at a run passing to
the left.[41] (we proceed on as yesterday, & with dificulty found the
road)

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping places,
September 16–18, 1805.

Course Dist. &c. 17th. Septr 1805 Sunday

 

S. 50°. W.

12

miles over high knobs of the mountains passed three Dreans to right and encamped on one to the left. Springs at all those dreans &c. road emencely bad as usial, no snow in the hollers all the high knobs of the mountains covered passed on a Dividing ridge on which we had to cross over emencely high knobs. road bad Killed a few Phesants only. Killed a colt to eate.

[Lewis:][42]

Wednesday September 18th. 1805.

Cap Clark set out this morning to go a head with six hunters,
there being no game in these mountains we concluded it would
be better for one of us to take the hunters and hurry on to the
leavel country a head and there hunt and provide some provisions
while the other remained with and brought on the party.
the latter of these was my part; accordingly I directed the
horses to be gotten up early being determined to force my
march as much as the abilities of our horses would permit.
the negligence of one of the party (Willard) who had a spare
horse, in not attending to him and bringing him up last evening
was the cause of our detention this morning untill ½ after
8 A. M. when we set out. I sent willard back to serch for his
horse, and proceeded on with the party at four in the evening
he overtook us without the horse, we marched 18 miles this
day and encamped on the side of a steep mountain; we suffered
for water this day passing one rivulet only; we wer[e]
fortunate in finding water in a steep raviene about ½ maile
from our camp, this morning we finished the remainder of
our last coult. we dined & suped on a skant proportion of
portable soupe, a few canesters of which, a little bears oil and
about 20 lbs. of candles[43] form our stock of provision, the only

recources being our guns & packhorses. the first is but a poor
dependance in our present situation where there is nothing
upon earth ex[c]ept ourselves and a few small pheasants, small
grey Squirrels, and a blue bird of the vulter kind about the
size of a turtle dove or jay bird. our rout lay along the ridge
of a high mountain course S. 20. W. 18 m. used the snow
for cooking.

[Clark:]

Monday (Wednesday) 18th. Septr 1805.

a fair morning cold I proceeded on in advance with Six
hunters (and let it be understood that my object was) to try and
find deer or Something to kill (& send back to the party) (The
want of provisions together with the dificul[t]y of passing those
emence mountains dampened the sperits of the party which induced
us to resort to Some plan of reviving ther sperits. I deturmined
to take a party of the hunters and proceed on in advance to Some
leavel Country, where there was game kill Some meat & send it
back &c.)

we passed over a countrey Similar to the one of yesterday
more fallen timber passed Several runs & Springs passing to
the right, from the top of a high part of the mountain at 20
miles I had a view of an emence Plain and leavel Countrey to
the S W. & West.[44] at a great distance a high mountain in
advance beyond the Plain, Saw but little (no) Sign of deer
and nothing else, much falling timber, made 32 miles and
Encamped on a bold running Creek passing to the left which
I call Hungery Creek[45] as at that place we had nothing to eate.
I halted only one hour to day to let our horses feed on Grass
(Grassy hill side) and rest

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping places,
September 18–20, 1805.

Course Distance 18.th Sepr. 1805 Monday

 

S. 85 W.

32

miles nearly I proceeded on with the hunters to a creek running from the right which I call hungary Creek as we have nothing to eate passed a run & several springs which pass to the right, keep on a Dividing ridge & crossed several high and Steep knobs a great quantity of falling timber at 20 miles I beheld a wide and extencive vallie in a West & S W Direction about [blank space in MS.] miles. a high mountain beyond. Drewyer shot at a Deer we did not get it. Killed nothing in those emence mountains of stones falling timber & brush.

[Lewis:]

Thursday September 19th.. 1805.

Set out this morning a little after sun rise and continued our
rout about the same course of yesterday or S. 20. W. for 6
miles when the ridge terminated and we to our inexpressable
joy discovered a large tract of Prairie country lying to the S.
W. and widening as it appeared to extend to the W. through
that plain the Indian informed us that the Columbia river, (in
which we were in surch) run. this plain appeared to be about
60 Miles distant, but our guide assured us that we should
reach it's borders tomorrow the appearance of this country,
our only hope for subsistance greately revived the sperits of the
party already reduced and much weakened for the want of food.[46]
the country is thickly covered with a very heavy growth of pine
of which I have ennumerated 8 distinct species. after leaving
the ridge we asscended and decended several steep mountains in
the distance of 6 miles further when we struck a Creek about
15 yards wide, our course being S. 35. W. we continued our
rout 6 miles along the side of this creek upwards passing 2 of
it's branches which flowed in from the N. 1st.. at the place we
struck the creek and the other 3 miles further. the road was
excessively dangerous along this creek being a narrow rockey
path generally on the side of [a] steep precipice, from which
in many places if e[i]ther man or horse were precipitated they

would inevitably be dashed in pieces. Fraziers horse fell from
this road in the evening, and roled with his load near a hundred
yards into the Creek. we all expected that the horse was
killed but to our astonishment when the load was taken off
him he arose to his feet & appeared to be but little injured, in
20 minutes he proceeded with his load. this was the most
wonderfull escape I ever witnessed, the hill down which he
roled was almost perpendicular and broken by large irregular
and broken rocks. the course of this Creek upwards due W.
we encamped on the Stard. side of it in a little raviene, having
traveled 18 miles over a very bad road. we took a small
quantity of portable soup, and retired to rest much fatiegued.
several of the men are unwell of the disentary. brakings out,
or irruptions of the Skin, have also been common with us for
some time.

[Clark:]

Tuesday (Thursday) 19th Septr. 1805.

Set out early proceeded on up the [Hungry] Creek passing
through a Small glade at 6 miles at which place we found a
horse. I derected him killed and hung up for the party after
takeing a brackfast off for our Selves which we thought fine
after Brackfast proceed on up the Creek two miles & left it to
our right passed over a mountain, and the heads of a branch
of hungary Creek, two high mountains, ridges and through
much falling timber (which caused our road of to day to be
double the derect distance on the Course Struck a large Creek
passing to our left which I Kept down for 4 miles and left it to
our left & passed over a (down the) mountain bad falling timber
to a Small Creek passing to our left and Encamped.[47] I killed
2 Pheasents, but fiew birds (are to be seen); Blue jay, Small white
headed hawk, Some Crows & ravins & large hawks road bad.
(as we decend the mountain the heat becomes more proseptable every
mile)

Cours Distance &c 19th Septr. Tuesday

 

S 60. W

nearly 22 miles on a Direct Course & at double the distance wind around falling timber to a branch running to the Left & camped. at 6 miles found a horse on the head of the Creek in some glades, he was not fat the me[n] beg leave to kill him which I granted, after they filled themselves, I had the ballance hung up for Capt. Lewis and proceeded on in the time the one half of the party was skining cooking &c. the others were hunting, without seeing a track of any animal. The road up this creek is much wors than any other part as the hills sides are steep and at maney places obliged for several yds. to pass on the sides of rocks where one false step of a horse would be certain destruction. Crossed over a mountain and the heads of a branch of hungary Creek over ridges and much falling timber, and a 2d. high mountain of like description to a large creek running west for 4 miles then turned South. I keped down 4 miles & turned up to the right over a mountain which was bad as usial to a branch which runs to the left and camped. The road to day wors than usial owing to the falling timber &c. we killed 2 phsts. but few birds. the Blue jay and small white headed Hawk some crows & ravens

[Lewis:]

Friday September 20th.. 1805.

This morning my attention was called to a species of bird
which I had never seen before. (Copy for Dr. Barton) It was
reather larger than a robbin, tho' much it's form and action.
the colours were a blueish brown on the back the wings and
tale black, as wass a stripe above the croop ¾ of an inch wide
in front of the neck, and two others of the same colour passed
from it's eyes back along the sides of the head. the top of the
head, neck brest and belley and butts of the wing were of a
fine yellowish brick reed [red]. it was feeding on the buries
of a species of shoemake or ash which grows common in [this]
country & which I first observed on 2d. of this month. I have
also observed two birds of a blue colour both of which I believe
to be of the haulk or vulter kind. the one of a blue shining
colour with a very high tuft of feathers on the head a long tale,

it feeds on flesh the beak and feet black. it's note is chă-ăh,
chă-ăh. it is about the size of a pigeon, and in shape and
action resembles the jay bird. another bird of very similar
genus, the note resembling the mewing of the cat, with a white
head and a light blue colour is also common, as are a black
species of woodpecker about the size of the lark woodpecker.
Three species of Phesants, a large black species, with some
white feathers irregularly scattered on the brest neck and
belley—a smaller kind of a dark uniform colour with a red
stripe above the eye, and a brown and yellow species that
a gooddeel resembles the phesant common to the Atlantic
States. we were detained this morning untill ten oclock
in consequence of not being enabled to collect our horses.
we had proceeded about 2 Miles when we found the greater
part of a horse which Capt. Clark had met with and killed for
us. he informed me by note that he should proceed as fast as
possible to the leavel country which lay to the S. W. of us,
which we discovered from the hights of the mountains on the
19th. there he intended to hunt untill our arrival. at one
oclock we halted on a small branch runing to the left and made
a hearty meal on our horse beef much to the comfort of our
hungry stomachs. here I larnt that one of the Packhorses
with his load was missing and immediately dispatched Baptiest
Lapage who had charge of him, to surch for him. he returned
at 3 OC. without the horse. The load of the horse was of
considerable value consisting of merchandize and all my stock
of winter cloathing. I therefore dispatched two of my best
woodsmen in surch of him, and proceeded with the party. Our
rout lay through a thick forrest of large pine the general course
being S. 25. W. and distance about 15. miles. our road was
much obstructed by fallen timber particularly in the evening.
we encamped on a ridge where ther was but little grass for our
horses, and at a distance from water. however we obtained as
much as served our culinary purposes and suped on our beef.
the soil as you leave the hights of the mountains becomes
gradually more fertile. the land through which we passed this
evening is of an excellent quality tho' very broken, it is a
dark grey soil. a grey free stone appearing in large masses
above the earth in many places. (Copy for Dr. Barton) saw
the hucklebury, honeysuckle, and alder common to the Atlantic
states, also a kind of honeysuckle which bears a white bury
and rises about 4 feet high not common but to the western
side of the rockey mountains. a growth which resembles the
choke cherry bears a black bury with a single stone of a sweetish
taste, it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet and grows in thick
clumps. the Arborvita is also common and grows to an immence
size, being from 2 to 6 feet in diameter.[48]

[Clark:]

Wednesday (Friday) 20th.. September 1805.

I set out early and proceeded on through a Countrey as
ruged as usial passed over a low mountain into the forks of
a large Creek which I kept down 2 miles and assended a high
Steep mountain leaveing the Creek to our left hand passed
the head of several dreans on a divideing ridge, and at 12
miles decended the mountain to a leavel pine Countrey proceeded
on through a butifull Countrey for three miles to a
Small Plain[49] in which I found maney Indian lodges, at the
distance of 1 mile from the lodges, I met 3 (Indian) boys,
when they saw me [they] ran and hid themselves, (in the grass)
(I desmounted gave my gun and horse to one of the men,) searched
(in the grass and) found (2 of the boys) gave them Small pieces
of ribin & Sent them forward to the village (Soon after) a man
Came out to meet me, [with great caution] & Conducted me
[us] to a large Spacious Lodge which he told me (by Signs)
was the Lodge of his great Chief who had Set out 3 days previous

with all the Warriers of the nation to war on a South
West derection & would return in 15 or 18 days. the fiew
men that were left in the Village and great numbers of women
geathered around me with much apparent signs of fear, and
apt. pleased they those people gave us a Small piece of
Buffalow meat, Some dried Salmon beries & roots in different
States, Some round and much like an onion which they call
Pas she co [quamash.[50] the Bread or Cake is called Pas-shi-co]
Sweet, of this they make bread & Supe they also gave us,
the bread made of this root all of which we eate hartily, I
gave them a fiew Small articles as preasents, and proceeded on
with a Chief to his Village 2 miles in the Same Plain, where
we were treated kindly in their way and continued with them
all night Those two Villages consist of about 30 double
lodges, but fiew men a number of women & children, They
call themselves Cho pun-nish or Pierced noses[51] Their diolect
appears verry different from the flat heads, [Tushapaws], altho
origineally the Same people, They are darker than the Flat
heads I have seen [Tushapaws Their] dress Similar, with more
beads white & blue principally, brass & Copper in different
forms, Shells and ware their haire in the Same way. they
are large Portley men Small women & handsom featured

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping places,
September 20–October, 1805.

Emence quantity of the [guawmash or] Pas-shi-co root[52] gathered
& in piles about the plain, those roots grow much like
an onion in marshey places the seed are in triangular Shells,
on the Stalk. they sweat them in the following manner i.e.
dig a large hole 3 feet deep, cover the bottom with Split wood
on the top of which they lay Small Stones of about 3 or 4
Inches thick, a Second layer of Splited wood & Set the whole
on fire which heats the Stones, after the fire is extinguished
they lay grass & mud mixed on the Stones, on that dry grass
which Supports the Pâsh-shi-co root a thin Coat of the Same
grass is laid on the top, a Small fire is kept when necessary in
the Center of the kill &c.

I find myself verry unwell all the evening from eateing the
fish & roots too freely Sent out hunters they killed nothing
Saw Some Signs of deer.

Course Dists. Friday 20th. Septr. 1805

       

Nearly S W	12	miles over a mountain to a low ridgey countrey covered with large pine, passed into the forks of a large creek which we kept down about 2 miles & left it to the left hand and crossed the heads of some Dreans of the creek & on a ruged Deviding ridge, road as bad as usial no game of sign to day
West	3	miles to an Indian camp in a leavel rich open Plain I met 3 boys who I gave a pice of ribin to each & sent them to the Villages, I soon after met a man whome I gave a handkerchief and he escorted me to the grand Chiefs Lodge, who was with the most of the nation gone to war those people treated us well gave us to eate roots dried roots made in bread, roots boiled, one sammon, Berries of red haws some dried, my arrival raised great confusion, all running to see us, after a Delay of an hour I deturmined to go lower & turn out & hunt, a principal man informed me his camp was on my way and there was fish I concluded to go to his village and set out accompd. by about 100 men womin & boys 2 mile across the Plains, & halted turned out 4 men to
		hunt, he gave us a sammon to eate, I found that his situation was not on the river as I expected & that his sammon was dried, & but fiew. this course is N. 70°. W 2 miles across a rich leavel Plain in which great quantites of roots have been geathered and in heaps. those roots are like onions, sweet when Dried, and tolerably good in bread, I eate much & am sick in the evening. those people have an emence quantities of Roots which is their Principal food. The hunters discovered some signs but killed nothing.
	17

[Lewis:]

Saturday September 21st 1805.

We were detained this morning untill 11 OCk. in consequence
of not being able to collect our horses. we then set
out and proceeded along the ridge on which we had encamped,
leaving which at 1-½ we passed a large creek [Collins—Ed.]
runing to the left just above it's junction with another which
run parrallel with and on the left of our road before we struck
the creek; through the level wide and heavy timbered bottom
of this creek we proceeded about 2-½ miles when bearing to
the right we passed a broken country heavily timbered great
quantities of which had fallen and so obstructed our road
that it was almost impracticable to proceed in many places.
th[r]ough these hills we proceeded about 5.Ms. when we passed
a small creek on which Capt. Clark encamped on the 19th.
passing this creek we continued our rout 5.Ms. thro' a similar
country when we struck a large creek at the forks, passed the
Northern branch and continued down it on the West side
1 mile and encamped in a small open bottom where there was
tolerable food for our horses. I directed the horses to be
hubbled to prevent delay in the morning being determined to
make a forced march tomorrow in order to reach if possible
the open country, we killed a few Pheasants, and I killed a
prarie woolf which together with the ballance of our horse
beef and some crawfish which we obtained in the creek enabled
us to make one more hearty meal, not knowing where the
next was to be found. (Copy for Dr. Barton) the Arborvita

increases in quantity and size. I saw several sticks today
large enough to form eligant perogues of at least 45 feet in
length. I find myself growing weak for the want of food and
most of the men complain of a similar deficiency, and have
fallen off very much. the general course of this day S. 30 W.
15. M.

[Clark, first draft:]

Septr. 21st. Saturday 1805[53]

a fine morning sent out all the hunters early in different
directions to kill something and delayed with the Indians to
prevent suspicion & to acquire as much information as possible
one of them Drew me a chart of the river & nations
below informed of one falls below which the white men lived
from whome they got white beeds cloth &c. &c. The day
proved warm, 2 Chiefs of Bands visited me to day. the
hunters all returned without any thing, I collected a horse
load of roots & 3 Sammon & sent R Fields with one Indian
to meet Capt Lewis at 4 oClock set out with the other men
to the river, passed thro a fine Pine countrey decended a steep
ruged hill verry long to a small river which comes from our
left and I suppose it to be [blank space in MS.] River
passed down the river 2 miles on a steep hill side at 11
oClock P. M. arrived at a camp of 5 squars a boy & 2 children
those people were glad to see us & gave us dried
sammon one had formerly been taken by the Minitarries of
the north & seen white men, our guide called the chief who
was fishing on the other side of the river, whome I found a
cherfull man of about 65. I gave him a Medal.

Thursday (Saturday) 21st.. Septr. 1805

A fine Morning Sent out all the hunters in different directions
to hunt deer, I my self delayed with the Chief to prevent
Suspission and to Collect by Signs as much information
as possible about the river and Countrey in advance. The
Chief drew me a kind of chart of the river, and informed me

that a greater Chief than himself was fishing at the river half a
days march from his Village called the twisted hare [hair],
and that the river forked a little below his Camp and at a long
distance below & below 2 large forks one from the left & the
other from the right the river passed thro' the mountains at
which place was a great fall of the Water passing through the
rocks, at those falls white people lived from whome they
precured the white Beeds & Brass &c. which the womin wore;
a Chief of another band visit[ed] me to day and Smoked a
pipe, I gave my handkerchief & a Silver Cord with a little
Tobacco to those Chiefs, The hunters all return without any
thing, I purchased as much Provisions as I could with what
fiew things I chan[c]ed to have in my Pockets, Such a[s]
Salmon Bread roots & berries, & Sent one man R Fields with
an Indian to meet Capt Lewis, and at 4 oClock P.M. Set out
to the river, met a man at dark on his way from the river
to the Village, whome I hired and gave the neck handkerchief
of one of the men, to polit [pilot] me to the Camp of the
twisted hare, we did not arrive at the Camp of the Twisted
hare but opposit, untill half past 11 oClock P.M. found at
this Camp five Squars & 3 Children. my guide called to the
Chief who was Encamped with 2 others on a Small Island in
the river, he Soon joind. me, I found him a Chearfull man
with apparant siencerity, I gave him a Medal &c. and
Smoked untill 1 oClock a. m. and went to Sleep. The Countrey
from the mountains to the river hills is a leavel rich butifull
Pine Countrey badly watered, thinly timbered & covered
with grass. The weather verry worm after decending into the
low Countrey, the river hills are Verry high & Steep, Small
bottoms to this little river which is Flat head [Clearwater] &
is 160 yards wide and Sholey This river is the one we killed
the first Coalt on near a fishing were

I am verry sick to day and puke which relive me

[Lewis:]

Sunday September 22nd. 1805.

Notwithstanding my positive directions to hubble the horses
last evening one of the men neglected to comply. he plead[ed]

ignorance of the order. this neglect however detained us untill
½ after eleven OCk. at which time we renewed our march, our
course being about west. we had proceeded about two and a
half miles when we met Reubin Fields one of our hunters,
whom Capt. Clark had dispatched to meet us with some dryed
fish and roots that he had procured from a band of Indians,
whose lodges were about eight miles in advance. I ordered
the party to halt for the purpose of taking some refreshment.
I divided the fish roots and buries, and was happy to find a
sufficiency to satisfy compleatly all our appetites. Fields also
killed a crow after refreshing ourselves we proceeded to the
village—due West 7-½ Miles where we arrived at 5 OCk in
the afternoon our rout was through lands heavily timbered,
the larger wood entirely pine. the country except the last
3 miles was broken and decending. the pleasure I now felt in
having tryumphed over the rockey Mountains and decending
once more to a level and fertile country where there was every
rational hope of finding a comfortable subsistence for myself
and party can be more readily conceived than expressed, nor
was the flattering prospect of the final success of the expedition
less pleasing. on our approach to the village which consisted
of eighteen lodges most of the women fled to the neighbouring
woods on horseback with their children, a circumstance I did
not expect as Capt. Clark had previously been with them and
informed them of our pacific intentions towards them and also
the time at which we should most probably arrive.[54] the men
seemed but little concerned, and several of them came to meet
us at a short distance from their lodges unarmed.[55]

[Clark, first draft:]

September 22nd.. Sunday 1805.

our first course of yesterday was nearly

       

N. 80°. W.		winding thro a grassy Pine Country of fine land for 12 miles
N. 70 W.	3	miles down a steep hill & on a hill side a creek to the right to the river from the left at a rapid
West	2	miles down the N side of the River and encamped, in the morning proceeded down to the Chief ['s] Lodge on an Island, found 3 men fishing hot day
miles	7

a fine morning I proceed on down the little river to
about 1½ a mile & found the chi[e]f in a canoe comeing to
meet me I got into his canoe & crossed over to his camp on
a small Island at a rapid Sent out the hunters leaving one
to take care of the baggage, & after eating a part of a sammon
I set out on my return to meet Capt. Lewis with the Chief &
his son at 2 miles met Shields with 3 Deer, I took a small
pice & changed for his horse which was fresh & proced on this
horse threw me 3 times which hurt me some. at Dark met
Capt Lewis Encamped at the first Village men much fatigued
& reduced, the Supply which I sent by R Fields was timely,
they all eate hartily of roots & fish, 2 horses lost 1 Days
journey back[56] .

Friday (Sunday) 22nd.. Septr. 1805

a verry worm day the hunters Shi[e]lds killed 3 Deer this
morning, I left them on the Island and Set out with the
Chief & his Son on a young horse for the Village at which
place I expected to meet Capt Lewis this young horse in
fright threw himself & me 3 times on the Side of a Steep hill
& hurt my hip much, Cought a Coalt which we found on
the roade & I rode it for Several miles untill we saw the Chiefs
horses, he Cought one & we arrived at his Village at Sunset,
& himself and mys[el]f walked upto the 2d Village where I
found Capt Lewis & the party Encamped, much fatigued, &

hungery, much rejoiced to find something to eate of which
they appeared to partake plentifully I cautioned them of the
Consequences of eateing too much &c.

The planes appeared covered with Spectators viewing the
white men and the articles which we had, our party weakened
and much reduced in flesh as well as Strength, The horse I
left hung up they receved at a time they were in great want,
and the Supply I Sent by R. Fields proved timely and gave
great encouragement to the party with Captn. Lewis. he lost
3 horses one of which belonged to our guide. Those Indians
Stole out of R.F. Shot pouch his knife wipers Compas &
Steel, which we could not precure from them, we attempted
to have Some talk with those people but could not for the
want of an Interpreter thro' which we could Speake, we
were Compelled to converse alltogether by Signs. I got the
Twisted hare to draw the river from his Camp down which he
did with great Cherfullness on a white Elk skin, from the
1st. fork which is few miles below, to the large fork on which
the So So ne or Snake Indians fish, is South 2 Sleeps; to a
large river which falls in on the N W. Side and into which
The Clarks river empties itself is 5 Sleeps from the mouth
of that river to the falls is 5 Sleeps at the falls he places
Establishments of white people &c. and informs that great
numbers of Indians reside on all those fo[r]ks as well as the
main river; one other Indian gave me a like account of the
Countrey. Some few drops of rain this evening. I precured
maps of the Country & river with the Situation of Indians,
Towns from Several men of note Seperately which varied
verry little.

[Clark, first draft:]

Septr. 23rd. Sunday.

Traded with the Indians, made 3 chiefs and gave them
meadels & Tobacco & Handkerchif & knives, one a flag & left
a Flag & handkerchief for the great chief when he returns from
War, in the evening proceeded to the 2d Vilg 2 miles, a
hard wind and rain at dark, traded for some root Bread &
skins to make shirts. hot day

Saturday (Monday) 23rd.. Septr 1805

We assembled the principal Men as well as the Chiefs and
by Signs informed them where we came from where bound our
wish to inculcate peace and good understanding between all the
red people &c. which appeared to Satisfy them much, we
then gave 2 other Medals to other Chefs of bands, a flag to
the twisted hare, left a flag & Handkerchief to the grand
Chief gave a Shirt to the Twisted hare & a knife & Handkerchief
with a Small pece of Tobacco to each. Finding that
those people gave no provisions to day we deturmined to purchase
with our Small articles of Merchindize, accord[ingly] we
purchased all we could, Such as roots dried, in bread, & in their
raw State, Berries of red Haws[57] & Fish and in the evening Set
out and proceeded on to the 2d Village 2 miles distt. where we
also purchased a few articles all amounting to as much as our
weak horses could carry to the river, Capt. Lewis & 2 men
Verry Sick this evening, my hip Verry Painfull, the men
trade a few old tin Canisters for dressed Elk Skin to make
themselves Shirts. at dark a hard wind from the S W accompanied
with rain which lasted half an hour. The twisted hare
envited Capt. Lewis & myself to his lodge which was nothin[g]
more than Pine bushes & bark, and gave us Some broiled dried
Salmon to eate, great numbers about us all night, at this village
the women were busily employed in gathering and drying
the Pas-she-co root of which they had great quantities dug in
piles

[Clark, first draft:]

Septr. 24th.. Monday 1805.

Set out early for the river and proceeded on the same road
I had previously gone to the Island at which place I had found
the Chief & formed a Camp several 8 or 9 men sick, Capt.
Lewis sick all Complain of a Lax & heaviness at the stomack,
I gave rushes Pills to several hot day. maney Indians &
thier gangues of horses follow us hot day Hunters had 5
Deer

Sunday (Tuesday) 24th.. Septr. 1805

a fine morning collected our horses despatched J. Colter
back to hunt the horses lost in the mountains & bring up Some
Shot left behind, and at 10 oClock we all Set out for the river
and proceeded on by the Same rout I had previously traveled,
and at Sunset we arrived at the Island on which I found the
Twisted hare, and formed a Camp on a large Island a little below,[58]
Capt. Lewis scercely able to ride on a jentle horse which
was furnished by the Chief, Several men So unwell that they
were Compelled to lie on the Side of the road for Some time
others obliged to be put on horses. I gave rushes Pills to the
Sick this evening. Several Indians follow us.

[Clark, first draft:]

Septr. 25th.

I with the Chief & a young man went down to hunt timber
for canoes proceeded on down to the forks 4 miles N 70°. W 2
miles S. 75° W 2 miles, halted young man cought 6 Sammon,
the forks nearly the same size, crossed the South fork
& found Timber large Pine in a bottom Proceeded up the
South side 3 parts of Party sick Capt. Lewis verry sick hot
day

Monday (Wednesy.) 25th. of September 1805

a verry hot day, most of the Party Complaining and 2 of
our hunters left here on the 22nd.. Verry sick, they had killed
only two Bucks in my absence. I Set out early with the Chief
and 2 young men to hunt Some trees Calculated to build
Canoes, as we had previously deturmined to proceed on by
water, I was furnished with a horse and we proceeded on
down the river Crossed a Creek at 1 mile from the right
verry rockey which I call rock dam Creek & Passed down on
the N side of the river to a fork from the North which is
about the Same size and affords about the Same quantity of

water with the other fork,[59] we halted about an hour, one
of the young men took his guig and killed 6 fine Salmon two
of them were roasted and we eate, two Canoes Came up loaded
with the furniter & provisions of 2 families, those Canoes
are long Stedy and without much rake, I crossed the South
fork and proceeded up on the South side, the most of the way
thro' a narrow Pine bottom in which I Saw fine timber for
Canoes one of the Indian Canoes with 2 men with Poles Set
out from the forks at the Same time I did and arrived at our
Camp on the Island within 15 minits of the Same time I did,
not withstanding 3 rapids which they had to draw the Canoe
thro' in the distance, when I arrived at Camp found Capt.
Lewis verry Sick, Several men also verry Sick, I gave Some
Salts & Tarter emetic, we deturmined to go to where the best
timber was and there form a Camp

[Clark, first draft:]

Sept.r. 26th.

Set out early and proceeded down the river to the bottom
on the S Side opposit the forks & formed a camp had ax
handled ground &c. our axes all too small. Indians caught
sammon & sold us, 2 Chiefs & their families came & camped
near us several men bad, Capt Lewis sick I gave Pukes
Salts &c. to several, I am a little unwell. hot day

Tuesday (Thursday) 26th. Septr. 1805

Set out early and proceeded on down the river to a bottom
opposit the forks of the river on the South Side and formed a
Camp. Soon after our arrival a raft Came down the N. fork
on which was two men, they came too, I had the axes distributed
and handled and men apotned. [apportioned] ready to
commence building canoes on tomorrow, our axes are Small
& badly calculated to build Canoes of the large Pine, Capt
Lewis Still very unwell, Several men taken Sick on the way

down, I administered Salts Pils Galip, [jalap] Tarter emetic
&c. I feel unwell this evening, two Chiefs & their families
follow us and encamp near us, they have great numbers
of horses.[60] This day proved verry hot, we purchase fresh
Salmon of the Indians

[Clark, first draft:]

Septr. 27th. Thursday 1805.

Set all the men able to work abt. building canoes, Colter
returned and found one horse & the canister of shot left in
the mountains he also killed a Deer ½ of which he brought
hot day men sick

27th Septr. (Friday) 1805

All the men able to work comen[c]ed building 5 Canoes,
Several taken Sick at work, our hunters returned Sick without
meet. J. Colter returned he found only one of the lost horses,
on his way killed a Deer, half of which he gave the Indians
the other proved nourishing to the Sick The day verry hot,
we purchase fresh Salmon of them Several Indians come up
the river from a Camp Some distance below (Capt Lewis
very sick nearly all the men sick. our Shoshonee Indian Guide
employed himself makeing flint points for his arrows)

[Clark, first draft:]

Septr. 28th. Friday.

Several men sick, all at work which is able, nothing killed
to day Drewyer sick maney Indians visit us worm day

Thursday (Saturday) 28th. Septr. 1805

Our men nearly all Complaining of their bowels, a heaviness
at the Stomach & Lax, Some of those taken first getting

better, a number of Indians about us gazeing &c. &c. This
day proved verry worm and Sultery, nothing killed men
complaining of their diat of fish & roots. all that is able
working at the Canoes, Several Indians leave us to day, the
raft continued on down the river, one old man informed us
that he had been to the white peoples fort at the falls & got
white beeds &c. (his Story was not beleved as he could explain
nothing).

[Clark, first draft:]

Septr. 29th. Satterday.

Drewyer killed 2 deer Collins 1 deer men contc. sickly at
work all able to work.

(Friday) Sunday 29th. Septr. 1805

a cool morning wind from the S. W. men Sick as usial,[61]
all the men (that are) able to (at)work, at the Canoes Drewyer
killed 2 Deer Colter killed 1 Deer, the after part of this day
worm (Capt Lewis very Sick, and most of the men Compla[in]ing
very muck of their bowels & Stomach)

[Clark, first draft:]

Sunday 30th.. Septr. 1805 Forks.

a fine morning our me[n] recruteing a little, cool, all at
work doing some thing except 2 which are verry sick, Great
numbers of small duck passing up and down the river this
morning

Took equal altitudes with Sextent at Camp opposit the Junction of
[blank space in MS.] River and [blank space in MS.] River

Sunday 3Oth Septr. 1805

       

	H.	M.	S.		H.	M.	S.
A.M.	8	49	32.5	P.M.	4	5	23.5
"	"	51	17.5		4	7	9
"	"	53	8.5		4	8	58.5

Altitude produced from this observation is 42°–50′–45″

Observed time and distance of Sun and Moon nearest Limbs ☉ West.
with Sextent

                                 

		Time			distance
	H	m	s
P M	4	21	44	91°.	57′	00″
	"	22	53	91	57	30
	"	23	52	91	58	0
	"	24	37	91	58	15
	"	25	35	91	58	15
	"	26	42	91	58	30
	"	27	39	91	58	45
	"	28	17	91	59	15
	"	29	43	91	59	45
	"	31	10	92	50	0
	"	32	15	92	0	15
	"	33	8	92	0	45
	"	34	23	92	1	15
	"	35	30	92	1	30
	"	36	20	92	1	45

Error of Enstrement 8′ 45″ sub Cronometer too fast

Septr. 30th. Satturday (Monday) 1805

a fine fa[i]r morning the men recruiting a little, all at
work which are able.[62] Great number of Small Ducks pass
down the river this morning. maney Indians passing up and
down the river.[63]

[Clark, first draft:]

October 1st.. 1805 Tuesday.

a cool morning wind from the N.E. I examine & Dry all
our article clothes & nothing to eat except Dried fish verry bad
diet Capt Lewis getting much better than for several days past
Several Indians visit us from the different villages below and on
the main fork, S. nothing killed

October 1st.. Monday (Tuesday) 1805

A cool Morning wind from the East had Examined and
dried all our Clothes and other articles, and laid out a Small
assortment of such articles as those Indians were fond of to
trade with them for Some provisions (they are remarkably
fond of Beeds) nothin to eate except a little dried fish which
they men complain of as working of them as (as much as) a
dost of Salts. Capt Lewis getting much better. Several
Indians visit us from the different tribes below. Some from
the main South fork. our hunters killed nothing to day
worm evening

[Clark, first draft:]

Octr. 2nd 1805 Wednesday

dispatch 2 men & an Indian up to the villages we first came
too to purchase roots fish &c, nothing to eat but roots. gave
a small pice of Tobacco to the Indians, 3 broachs & 2 rings
with my Handkerchif divided between 5 of them. I walked
on the hills to hunt to day, saw only one deer, could kill
nothing day excesively hot in the river bottoms wind North,
Burning out the holler of our canoes, men something better
nothing except a small Prarie wolf killed to day, our Provisions
all out except what fiew fish we purchase of the Indians
with us; we kill a horse for the men at work to eate &c. &c.

October 2nd Tuesday (Wednesday) 1805

despatched 2 men Frasure & S. Guterich back to the village
with 1 Indian & 6 horses to purchase dried fish, roots &c.
We have nothing to eate but roots, which give the men violent
pains in their bowels after eating much of them. To the
Indians who visited us yesterday I gave [presents] divided
my Handkerchief between 5 of them, with a Small piece of
tobacco & a pece of riebin & to the 2 principal men each a
ring & brooch. I walked out with my gun on the hills which
is verry steep & high could kill nothing, day hot wind N.
Hunters killed nothing excep a Small Prarie wolf. Provisions
all out, which compells us to kill one of our horses to eate
(and make Suep for the Sick men.)

[Clark, first draft:]

October 3rd Thursday 1805 Canoe Run.

a fair cool morning wind from the East all our men gitting
well and at work at the canoes &c.

Took equal altitudes with Sextent

       

	H.	M.	S.		H.	M.
A M.	9	8	14	P M.	3	57	8
	9	10	8		3	58	58.5
	9	11	59		4	0	5

Altitude produced 44° 53′ 45″

P M Observed time and distance of the Moons western Limb from
a Arietis * East of the ☾

                       

		Time			distance
	Hs.	Ps.	Sds.
P M	8	11	49	78°.	4′	00″
	"	21	6	"	2	30
	"	23	21	"	2	15
	"	25	7	"	1	45
	"	27	40	"	1	30
	"	30	10	77	59	00
	"	33	34	"	58	45
	"	35	1	"	58	15
	"	37	1	"	58	00
	"	38	28	"	57	30

October 3rd.. (Thursday) 1805

a fine morning cool wind East all our men getting better
in helth, and at work at the Canoes &c. The Indians who
visited us from below Set out on their return early. Several
others Come from different directions[64]

[Clark, first draft:]

October 4th.. 1805 Friday.

This morning is a little cool wind from the East. I displeased
an Indian by refuseing to let him have a pice of
Tobacco, three Indians from the S. fork visit us Fraser and
Gutrich return from the village with fish, roots &c. which they
purchased

October 4th (Friday) 1805

a cool wind from off the Eastern mountains, I displeased
an Indian by refuseing him a pice of Tobacco which he tooke
the liberty to take out of our Sack. Three Indians visit us
from the Great River South of us. The two men Frasure
and Guterich return late from the Village with Fish roots &c.
which they purchased as our horse is eaten we have nothing
to eate except dried fish & roots which disagree with us verry
much. The after part of this day verry worm. (Capt Lewis
Still Sick but able to walk about a little.)

[Clark, first draft:]

October 5th. Saturday 1805.

a cool morning wind from the East, collected all our
horses, & Branded[65] them 38 in No. and delivered them to the
men who were to take charge of them, each of which I gave a
Knife & one a wampom-shell gorget, The Lattd. of this place
the mean of 2 observations is 46°–34′–56″. 3 North. nothing
to eat but dried roots & Dried fish, Capt Lewis & my
self eate a supper of roots boiled, which filled us so full of
wind, that we were scercely able to Breathe all night feel the
effects of it. Lanc[h]ed 2 canoes to day one proved a little
leakey the other a verry good one

October 5th Friday Saty. 1805

Wind Easterley and Cool, had all our horses 38 in number
Collected and branded Cut off their fore top and delivered
them to the 2 brothers and one son of one of the Chiefs who
intends to accompany us down the river to each of those
men I gave a Knife & Some Small articles &c. they promised
to be attentive to our horses untill we Should return.

Lattitude of this place from the mean of two observations
is 46°–34′–56″.3 North.

Nothing to eate except dried fish & roots. Capt Lewis &
myself eate a Supper of roots boiled, which Swelled us in Such
a manner that we were Scercely able to breath for Several
hours, finished and lanced (launched) 2 of our canoes this
evening which proved to be verry good our hunters with
every diligence Could kill nothing. The hills high and ruged
and woods too dry to hunt the deer which is the only game
in our neighbourhood. Several Squars Came with fish and
roots which we purchased of them for Beeds, which they were
fond of. Capt Lewis not So well to day as yesterday

[Clark, first draft:]

October 6th Sunday 1805.

A cool morning wind East for a short time, which is always
a cool wind, had a cach made for our saddles and buried them
on the side of a Pond.

Magnetic azmuth of Sun A. M.

       

	Time			azmth			altitude
H.	M.	S.
9	6	27	S	75°.	E	42°	58′	00″
9	18	21	S.	73	E	45	46	45

finish all the Canoes late. I am verry sick all night, Pane
in Stomach & the bowels oweing to my diet

Equal altitudes 6th Septr. [Oct.] with Sextent

       

	H.	m.	s		H.	m.	s
A.M.	9	16	21.5	P.M.	3	45	34.5
	"	18	20.5		"	47	34.5
	"	20	17.5		"	49	26.5

Took time and distance of moons Western Limb and a Arquilé,
[Aquilæ] Star West.

                       

		Time			distance
	H.	M.	s.	°	'	"
P.M.	8	25	55	58	54	15
	"	28	34	"	55	30
	"	32	47	"	56	45
	"	34	40	"	57	0
	"	36	53	"	57	45
	"	38	41	"	58	30
	"	40	35	"	59	15
	"	42	14	"	59	45
	"	43	37	59	1	00
	"	45	21	"	1	45

Took time and Distance of Moons Western Limb from Alberian
[Aldebaran] Star East

                   

	Time			distance
h.	m.	s	°	'	"
9	9	52	65	29	15
"	12	6	"	28	00
"	13	47	"	27	15
"	16	8	"	27	15
"	18	2	"	28	00
"	19	49	"	24	30
"	21	12	"	24	00
"	22	44	"	23	30

October 6th Saturday [Sunday] 1805

A Co[o]l Easterley Wind which Springs up in the latter
part of the night and continues untill about 7 or 8 oClock
A.M. had all our Saddles Collected a whole dug and in the
night buried them, also a Canister of powder and a bag of
Balls at the place the Canoe which Shields made was cut from
the body of the tree. The Saddles were burried on the Side
of a bend about ½ mile below. all the Canoes finished this
evening ready to be put into the water. I am taken verry
unwell with a pain in the bowels & Stomach, which is certainly
the effects of my diet which last all night.

The winds blow cold from a little before day untill the Suns
gets to Some hight from the Mountains East as they did from
the Mountains at the time we lay at the falls of Missouri from
the West

The river below this forks is Called Kos-kos-kee it is Clear
rapid with Shoals or Swift places

The open Countrey Commences a fiew miles below this on
each side of the river, on the Lard Side below the 1st Creek.
with a few trees Scattered near the river.[66]

[Clark, first draft:]

7th. Octr 1805 Monday.

I feel myself verry unwell, all the canoes in the water, we
Load and set out, after fixing all our Poles &c. &c. The after
noon Cloudy proced on passing maney bad rapids, one
canoe that in which I went in front sprung a Leak in passing
the 3rd. rapid.

                               

Set out at	3	oClock P M & proceeded on
N. 80°.W.	1	mile, passed a bad rappid
S. W.	1 ½	mile to the L. Side bend
West	½	mile to R. Sd. passd. a rapid
S W.	1	mile to a Left hand bend
N. 70 W.	1 ½	miles passed a rapid R.
S. 60 W.	1 ½	miles d°. bad to L. S.
West	3	miles passd. a rapid ½ a Creek on the left at 2 miles to a right hand bend
S. 10°. E	1 ½	mile to a Left B. passed a rapid
N. 60 E	1 ½	m. to a R. bend passed a rapid
South	1	To a bend on the Left Side passed a bad rapid
West	1	in the left hand bend
N W.	½	a mile to a bad rapid
S. 70°. W	1 ½	miles to a bend on the right
S W.	2	miles to a bend on the left at the mo. of a run opposit to which we camped, [blank space in MS.] from water Encamped on a pool [to the] right, narrows
	20	above for 6 miles all [w]ay

October 7th. Monday 1805

I continue verry unwell but obliged to attend every thing
all the Canoes put into the water and loaded, fixed our Canoes
as well as possible and Set out as we were about to Set out
we missd. both of the Chiefs who promised to accompany us, I
also missed my Pipe Tomahawk which could not be found.

The after part of the day cloudy proceded on passed 10
rapids which wer dangerous the Canoe in which I was Struck
a rock and Sprung a leak in the 3rd. rapid, we proceeded on
20 [19] miles and Encamped on a Stard. point opposit a run.
passed a Creek small on the Lard. Side at 9 miles, a Short
distance from the river at 2 feet 4 Inches N. of a dead toped
pine Tree had buried 2 Lead Canisters of Powder

Had the Canoes unloaded examined and mended a Small
leake which we discovered in a thin place in her Side passed
Several Camps of Indians to day

our Course and distance Shall be given after I get to the
forks. &c. which the Indians Say is the last of the bad water
untill we get to the great falls 10 day below, where the white
people live &c. [The Lodges are of Sticks set in form of roof of
a house & covered with mats and straw]

[Clark, first draft:]

8th Octr. 1805 Tuesday.

a cloudy morning changed canoes and buried 2 Lead
canisters of Powder 2 foot 4 In. North of a dead toped pine
opposit our camp & opposit the mouth of a run after repareing
leaks in the canoes sprung comeing over the rapids yesterday
set out at 9 oClock

             

N. W.	1	mile to a riffle in the S. bend
South	¼	thro a verry bad rappid all way
S. 70°. W.	½	to a L. bend good water
N.W.	¼	thro a rapid in a Stard bend
West	2 ½	miles to a Stard bend passed a bad rapid at 1 mile pd. a rapd. at 2 miles
South	1 ½	to a L. bend opsd. a bottom of stone
S. 70°. W.	2 ½	mile to a Stard. bend passed an Island on the Lard Side, a rapid at head & foot of Island end of the course

               

S.W.	2	miles to a Lard bend passed a rapid & Ind camp (3 Lodges) & fishing place, Lowr pt. of Isd. at which place we dined & bought fish Passed Lower pt. Isd. on Stard Side
West	2 ½	miles passed an Island on which 3 Lodges of Indians were encamped opsd. on the Lad Side a small creek at the Lower pt. on Std Side 6 Lodges of Inds. we halted and took in our 2 chiefs and bought fish & roots Psd. 2 rapids
S W	1 ½	m. to a bend on Std. passed a rapid
S. 40°. E.	1	to a bend on Lard. psd a rapid
S. 60° W.	2 ½	miles to a bend Std Side passing an Isd on the Lard. & bad rapid
S W	1 ½	miles to a Stard bend passed an Isd. on Ld. Side a rapid at upper point and lower pt. canoe [c]racked, a creek falls in on the Stard. Side[67]
West	1 ½	to the upper pt, of a Island Std Side
	21

October 8th. Tuesday 1805

A Cloudy morning loaded our Canoes which was unloaded
last night and Set out at 9 oClock passed 15 rapids four
Islands and a Creek on the Stard Side at 16 miles just below
which one canoe in which Sergt. Gass was Stearing and was
nearle turning over, she Sprung a leak or Split open on one
side and Bottom filled with water & Sunk on the rapid, the
men, Several of which Could not Swim hung on to the Canoe,
I had one of the other Canoes unloaded & with the assistance
of our Small Canoe and one Indian Canoe took out every
thing & toed the empty Canoe on Shore, one man Tompson
a little hurt, every thing wet particularly the greater part of
our Small Stock of Merchandize, had every thing opened,
and two Sentinels put over them to keep off the Indians, who
are enclined to theave haveing Stole Several Small articles
those people appeared disposed to give us every assistance in
their power during our distress. We passed Several Encampments

of Indians on the Islands and those near the rapids in
which places they took the Salmon, at one of those Camps
we found our two Chiefs who had promised to accompany us,
we took them on board after the Serimony of Smokeing

[Clark, first draft:]

Octo 9th.

all day drying our roots good[s] & articles which got wet in
the canoe last night. our 2 Snake Indian guides left us without
our knowledge, The Indians troublesom stole my spoon
which they returned men merrey at night & singular acts of
a Indn.

October 9th Wednesday 1805—

The morning Cool as usial the greater part of the day
proved to be Cloudy, which was unfavourable for drying our
things &c. which got we[t] yesterday. In examoning our
Canoe found that by putting Knees & Strong peces pined
(pieces primed) to her Sides and bottom &c. She could be
made fit for Service in by the time the goods dried, Set 4 men
to work at her, Serjs. Pryor & Gass, Jo Fields & Gibson, others
to collect rosin, at 1 oClock she was finished stronger than
ever The wet articles not sufficiently dried to pack up obliged
us to delay another night dureing the time one man was
tradeing for fish for our voyage, at Dark we were informed
that our old guide & his son had left us and had been Seen
running up the river Several miles above, we could not account
for the cause of his leaveing us at this time, without
receiving his pay for the services he had rendered us, of letting
us know anything of his intention.[68]

we requested the Chief to Send a horseman after our old
guide to come back and receive his pay &c. which he advised
us not to do as his nation would take his things from him before
he passed their camps. The Indians and our party were
verry mery this after noon a woman faind madness &c. &c.

Singular acts of this woman in giveing in small po[r]tions all
she had & if they were not received (or she had no more to give
pitied by Indians she sang) She would Scarrify her self in a
horid manner &c. Capt Lewis recovering fast.

[Clark, first draft:]

Octr. 10th. 1805 Thursday.

Set out at 7 oClock

                   

South	1	mile passed a bad rapid at the head of an Isd. on Ld. Side
S. 20°. W.	1 ½	miles to a Ld bend, passed a Isd. on Ld Side. rapid at the head bad. passed Lower pt. of the other [island] at the mouth of a run on Stard.
West	½	to a Std bend passed a small Isd. Ld Side and a rapid
S. 30°. W.	3	miles to a Ld bend passed a creek coming [in] on the Ld Side at ½ a mile on which is cotton wood bottoms Inds camp below the Creek
West	2	miles to the head of an Isd at a bad rapid on both side current on the right side
S. 30°. W.	4	mile pd. a rapid at Lower point of Isd & rapid at 1 mile, a rapid at 1 ½ miles rockey bottoms on each side a rapid at 2 ½ miles a run & (Indn camp) on Stard Side at 3 miles a rapid at 3 ½ miles to a Lard bend, low plain 100 ft
West	2	mile to a Stard bend, (passed an Indian bathing in hot bath) rapid an Island on the L. S. shole waters at the head opsd. to which a verry bad rapid we call ragid rapid one canoe struck & lodged sprung a Leak onload Passed several Inds camps on the Island. Took meridian altitude on the Island with Sextent made it 74°. 26′ Latd. 46°. 29′ 21″ 7/10 North
S. W.	1	mile to a bend on the St Side psd a rapid
South	1	mile to the L. bend passed 2 rapids a large bottom on each side
S. 80°. W.	3	miles to the mouth of a Large fork caled by the Inds. Ki-moo-e-nen[69] passed 2 rapids Isd in mouth

   

West	1	mile to a Std bend psd a shole in the mouth. Wind high which obliged us to stop. Kimooenem has two forks on the South Side, & camps of Inds all the way up 2d fork called Pâr-nash-te about 50 miles camped on Std Side to make observations.
	58[70]

[ILLUSTRATION]

a verry worm day, Indians continue all day on the banks to
view us as low as the forks. Two Indians come up in a canoe
who means to accompany us to the Great rapids, Could get
no observations, worm night. The water of the South fork
is of a bluish green colour

October 10th.. Wednesday (Thursday)

a fine Morning loaded and Set out at 7 oClock at 2 ½
miles passed a run on the Stard. Side haveing passed 2 Islands
and two bad rapids at 3 miles lower passed a Creek[71] on the
Lard. with wide cotton willow bottoms haveing passed an Island
and a rapid an Indian Camp of three Lodges below the
Creek at 8 ½ miles lower we arrived at the heade of a verry
bad riffle at which place we landed near 8 Lodges of Indians
(Choponnesh) on the Lard Side to view the riffle, haveing passed
two Islands & Six rapids Several of them verry bad after
viewg. this riffle two Canoes were taken over verry well; the
third stuck on a rock which took us an hour to get her off which
was effected without her receving a greater injurey than a Small
Split in her Side which was repaired in a Short time, we purchased
fish & dogs[72] of those people, dined and proceeded on.
here we met with an Indian from the falls at which place he
Sais he saw white people, and expressd an inclination to accompany
us,[73] we passd. a few miles above this riffle 2 Lodges
and an Indian batheing in a hot bath made by hot stones
thrown into a pon[d] of water. at this riffle which we Call
ragid rapid took Meridian altitude of the Suns upper Limb
with Sext. 74°. 26′ 0″ Latd. produced [blank space in MS.]
North at five miles lower and Sixty miles below the forks
arived at a large southerly fork which is the one we were on
with the Snake or So-So-nee nation (haveing passed 5 rapids)
This South fork or Lewis's River[74] which has two forks which

fall into it on the South the 1st Small the upper large and about
2 days march up imediately parrelal to the first villages we
Came to and is called by those Indians Pâr-nash-te[75] on this
fork a little above its mouth resides a Chief who as the Indian
say has more horses than he can count and further sayeth that
Louises River is navagable about 60 miles up with maney
rapids at which places the Indians have fishing Camps and
Lodges built of an oblong form with flat ruffs. below the
1st. river on the South Side there is ten established fishing
places on the 1st. fork which fall[s] in on the South Side is
one fishing place, between that and the Par-nashte River, five
fishing places, above two; and one on that river all of the
Cho-pun-nish or Pierced nose Nation many other Indians reside
high up those rivers The Countrey about the forks is
an open Plain on either Side. I can observe at a distance on
the lower Lard. Side a high ridge of Thinly timbered Countrey
the water of the South fork is a greenish blue, the north as
clear as cristial

Imediately in the point is an Indian Cabin & in the South
fork a Small Island, we came to on the Stard. Side below with
a view to make some luner observations, the night proved
cloudy and we were disapointed. The Indians Came down
all the Cou[r]ses of this river on each side on horses to view
us as we were decending. The man whome we saw at the
ruged rapid and expressed an inclination to accompany us to
the great rapids, came up with his son in a Small Canoe and
procisted in his intentions, worthey of remark that not one
stick of timber on the river near the forks and but a fiew trees
for a great distance up the River we decended I think Lewis's

[Snake] River is about 250 yards wide, the Koos koos ke[76] River
about 150 yards wide and the river below the forks about
300 yards wide a miss understanding took place between
Shabono one of our interpreters and Jo & R Fields which appears
to have originated in just [jest]. our diet extremely bad
haveing nothing but roots and dried fish to eate, all the Party
have greatly the advantage of me, in as much as they all relish
the flesh of the dogs, Several of which we purchased of the
nativs for to add to our store of fish and roots &c. &c.—[77]

The Cho-pun-nish or Pierced nose Indians are Stout likely
men, handsom women,[78] and verry dressey in their way, the
dress of the men are a White Buffalow robe or Elk Skin dressed
with Beeds which are generally white, Sea Shells & the Mother
of Pirl hung to the[i]r hair & on a piece of otter skin about
their necks hair Ceewed in two parsels hanging forward over
their Sholders, feathers, and different Coloured Paints which
they find in their Countrey Generally white, Green & light
Blue. Some fiew were a Shirt of Dressed Skins and long
legins & Mockersons Painted, which appears to be their winters
dress, with a plat of twisted grass about their Necks.

The women dress in a Shirt of Ibex or Goat [Argalia] Skins
which reach quite down to their anckles with[79] a girdle, their
heads are not ornemented, their Shirts are ornemented with
quilled Brass, Small peces of Brass Cut into different forms,
Beeds, Shells & curious bones &c. The men expose those
parts which are generally kept from few [view] by other nations
but the women are more perticular than any other nation which
I have passed [in s[e]creting the parts]

Their amusements appear but fiew as their Situation requires
the utmost exertion to pr[o]cure food they are generally
employed in that pursute, all the Summer & fall fishing for the

Salmon, the winter hunting the deer on Snow Shoes in the
plains and takeing care of ther emence numbers of horses, & in
the Spring cross the mountains to the Missouri to get Buffalow
robes and meet &c. at which time they frequent[ly] meet
with their enemies & lose their horses & maney of their
people.[80]

Their disorders are but fiew and those fiew of a s[c]rofelous
nature. they make great use of Swetting. The hot and cold
bathes, They are verry Selfish and Stingey of what they have
to eate or ware, and they expect in return Something for everything
give[n] as presents or the survices which they doe let it
be however Small, and fail to make those returns on their
part.[81]