University of Virginia Library

Chapter XVIII

THE RAPIDS OF THE SNAKE AND COLUMBIA

XVIII. Clark's Journal, October 11–20, 1805

[Clark, first draft:]

Octr. 11th. 1805 Friday[1]

a cloudy morning wind set out early course

                             

S. 40°.W.	1 ½	miles to pt. of rocks on the Lbd. below a bottom & opsd. one psd an old Lodge in the Ld bottom
West	2	miles to a Stard. bend passed a rapid at ½ mile 2 large Indn houses in a bottom on the Stard Side above & below the rapid, rockey hill sides
S. 40°. W.	3	miles to the mouth of a branch on the Lard. bend, several Lodges at the branch and a house opposit vacant, we Purchased 7 dogs & fish roots &c to eat
S. 75°. W.	1 ½	mile in the Lard. bend passed a rapid Point swift water
N. 40°. E	1	mile to a bend Std. at a rapid psd a large Indn. house Std Side
N. 60°. W.	2	miles to a Lard bend at a rapid bad no timber except a fiew low Hackburries & a fiew willows. we Purchd, Dried cherries Pashequar root and Pashequar marsh [mash] or bread. Prise the shells verry much, also Iron wire
N. 10°. W.	2	miles to a Stard bend at a rapid, 2 Ind. Huts on the Std Side
N. 40°. W.	4	mile to a Std. bend psd. a Std point to an Indian camp of 3 Lodges on the Stard. Side, Dined & purchased 3 Dogs and a fiew dried fish for our voyage down, one Indian accompanyed us
S. 60°. W.	2	mile to a Stard bend passed a Stard point and 2 Indian Houses all the houses are deserted the owners out in the plains killing the antelope, saw gees & Ducks
S 30°. W	1	to a Lard bend opsd. old Indian Camp
N. 60. W	2	miles to clift in a Stard bend psd a rapid at ½ mile, an Indian cabin on the Std Side
West	½	a mile to a Lard bend
N. 10° W	1 ½	miles to a Std. bend passd. a cabin S.
West	2 ½	miles to a Lard. bend passed a rapid opsd. a stoney Island from Stard opsd which S is an Indian Cabin, a rapid at the Lower point of Isd
N. W.	3½/30	miles to the mouth of a run in the Stard. Bend at 2 Indian Lodges, here we camped, met an Indian from below Purchased 3 dogs and a fiew dried fish, this is a great fishing place a house below evacuated wind a head

October 11th. Friday 1805[2]

a cloudy morning wind from the East. We set out early
and proceeded on passed a rapid at two miles, at 6 miles
we came too at Some Indian lodges and took brackfast, we
purchased all the fish we could and Seven dogs of those people
for Stores of Provisions down the river at this place I saw a
curious Swet house underground, with a Small whole at top
to pass in or throw in the hot Stones, which those in [side]
threw on as much water as to create the temporature of heat
they wished at 9 mile passed a rapid at 15 miles halted at
an Indian Lodge, to purchase provisions of which we prec[u]red
some of the Pash-he-quar roots five dogs[3] and a few
fish dried, after takeing Some dinner of dog &c. we proceeded
on. Came to and encamped at 2 Indian Lodges at a great
place of fishing[4] here we met an Indian of a nation near the
mouth of this river. (2u) we purchased three dogs and a
fiew fish of those Indians, we Passed today nine rapids all
of them great fishing places, at different places on the river
saw Indian houses and Slabs & Spilt [Split] timber raised from
the ground being the different parts of the houses of the natives

when they reside on this river for the purpose of fishing at
this time they are out in the Plain on each side of the river
hunting the antilope as we are informed by our Chiefs, near
each of those houses we observe grave yards picketed, or pieces
of wood stuck in permiscuesly over the grave or body which is
covered with earth, [wrap up dead, put them in earth & throw
over earth & picket the ground about] The Country on either
Side is an open plain leavel & fertile after ascending a Steep
assent of about 200 feet, not a tree of any kind to be Seen
on the river The after part of the day the wind from the
S. W. and hard. The day worm.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 12th. 1805 Saturday.

a fair cool morning wind from E after purchaseing all the
dried fish those people Would spear, from their hole in which
they were buried we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on

                         

S W.	3	miles passed 4 Islands at 1 ½ miles 3 nearly opposit a bad rapid on the Lard. Side of those Islands, and swift water around them to a Lard. point passed a Stard point
West	3	miles to a Lard Bend passed a small rapid & Island on the Lard. also an Indian cabin.
N. W.	2	miles to a Stard. Bend the bottoms are narrow from the points, the bends & high lands have clifts of ruged rock to the river, & bottoms
S. 70°. W.	2	miles to a bend at a rapid on the Stard. Isd opsd. passed a rapid on the Std. Side of a stoney Island, opsd. to which on the Std. Side below the rapid a small creek falls in. saw an Indian on the high land at a distance no timber in view
South	2	miles to a pt. in Lard. bend here the Plains become low on both sides river about 400 yards wide
S. 30°. W.	2 ½	miles to the mouth of a creek enter[ing] in a Lard. bend opsd. a small Island on the Lard Side
S. 85° W	2 ½	to the Stard bend at a swift place about half the distance of this course Cp L took meridian altitude on Ld Side 72° 30′ 0″
S. 10°. W.	1 ½	to a Lard Bend, (low open country)
S. 88. W.	3 ½	to a Stard. Bend wind S W. and hard. plain country rise gradually on each side passed Islands and rapid an Indian house on the Stard. some Indians at it &c.
S. 60°. W.	6	miles to a Stard. bend passed an Island at 4 miles & one at 5 miles, swift water, and sholey
S. 30°. W.	1	mile to a Lard bend passed a rapid the upper pt. of a small stoney Isd.
West	1	mile to a Stard. bend opsd. a small Island close under the Lard shore passed a run on the Std side, here we came too to view a falls or very bad rapid imediately below. (Camped) which the Inds. informed us was very bad, we found it bad. Sent our small canoe over.
	30

October 12th. Saturday 1805

A fair Cool morning wind from the East after purchaseing
every Sp[e]cies of the provisions those Indians could spare we
set out and proceeded on at three miles passed 4 Islands,
Swift water and a bad rapid opposit to those Islands on the
Lard. side at 14-½ miles passed the mouth of a large Creek
on the Lard side opposit a Small Island here the Countrey
assends with a gentle assent to the high plains, and the River
is 400 yards wide about 1 mile below the Creek on the Same
Side took Meridian altitude which gave 72° 30′ 00″ Latitude
produced ° ′ ″ [blank spaces in MS.] North in the
afternoon the wind shifted to the S. W. and blew hard we
passed today [blank space in MS.] rapids several of them very
bad and came to at the head of one (at 30 miles) on the Stard.
Side to view it before we attemptd. to d[e]send through it[5]
The Indians had told us [it] was very bad we found [it] long
and dangerous about 2 miles in length, and maney turns necessary
to Stear Clare of the rocks, which appeared to be in every
direction The Indians went through & our small canoe followed
them, as it was late we deturmined to camp above
untill the morning we passed several stoney Islands today
Country as yesterday open plains, no timber of any kind,

a fiew Hackberry bushes & willows[6] excepted, and but few
drift trees to be found, So that fire wood is verry Scerce The
hills or assents from the water is faced with a dark ruged
Stone. The wind blew hard this evening.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 13th. Sunday 1805.

Rained a little before day, and all the morning a hard wind
from the S West untill 9 oClock, the rained seased & wind luled,
and Capt Lewis with two canoes set out & passed down the
rapid The others soon followed and we passed over this bad
rapid safe. We should make more portages if the season was
not so far advanced and time precious with us.

Course & Distance 13th

               

S. 20°. W	2	miles to a Lard Bend passed in the Greater part of the distance thro a bad rapids, rocks in every derection. Channel on the Lard Side about the center of the long rapid
S. 70°. W	3	miles to a large Creek in the Ld. bend. passed a bad rockey rapid at 2 miles many rocks
N. 50°. W.	5	miles to a large creek Std. bend at 2 Indian cabins passed a bad rapid for 4 miles water compressed in a narrow channel not more than 25 yards for about 1 ½ miles saw several Indians, this place may be called the narrows or narrow rapids great fishery
N. 75°. W.	2	miles to the Stard. bend
S W.	2 ½	miles to a Lard. bend
N. 80°. W.	3	miles to a Stard. bend
S. 60°. W.	2	miles on the Std. side passed a rapid
S. 40°. W.	3½/30	miles to a Lard. bend high clifts the parts of an Indian house scaffoled up on the Lard Sd. opposit a Picketed grave yard. we came to on the Stard. Side & camped. Two Indians whom we left at the forks over took us on horsback & wishes to accompany us. no game. The wife of Shabono our interpreter we find reconsiles all the Indians, as to our friendly intentions a woman with a party of men is a token of peace

October 13th. Sunday 1805

A windey dark raney morning the rain commenced before
day and continued moderately untill near 12 oClock we took
all our Canoes through this rapid without any injurey a little
below passed through another bad rapid at [blank space in
MS.] miles passed the Mo: of a large Creek [at 5 m in the
Lard. bend we call Ki-moó-e-nimm[7] Creek] At 10 Ms. [a] little
river in a Stard. bend, imediately below a long bad rapid
[Drewyers River][8] in which the water is confined in a Chanel
of about 20 yards between rugid rocks for the distance of a
mile and a half, and a rapid rockey chanel for 2 miles above.
This must be a verry bad place in high water, here is great
fishing place, the timber of Several houses piled up, and a
number of wholes of fish, and the bottom appears to have
been made use of as a place of deposit for their fish for ages
past, here two Indians from the upper forks over took us
and continued on down on horse back, two others were at this
mouth of the Creek. we passed a rapid about 9 mile lower.
at dusk came to on the Std. Side & Encamped. Th[e] two
Inds. on horse back Stayed with us. The Countery thro'
which we passed to day is Similar to that of yesterday open
plain no timber passed several houses evacuated at established
fishing places, wind hard from the S. W. in the evening and
not very cold[9]

[Clark, first draft:]

October 14th. Monday 1805.

a verry cool morning wind from West set out at 8 oClock
proceeded on

           

West	2 ½	miles to a Stard bend swift water opsd. a rock on Ld. pt. like a ship
S. 10°. W.	2 ½	miles to a Lard. bend passed a rapid
S.W.	3	miles to a Stard. bend passed a rapid and small Island on the Stard Side
S. 10°. E.	2 ½	miles to a Lard. bend psd. small Isd. S.
S. 70°. W.	1 ½	miles to a Starboard bend, wind cold & from the S W
South 18°. W	3	miles to a Lard. bend passed a long bad rapid on which 3 canoes struck, with 2 rockey Islands in it killed 8 ducks good dinner off the Lard. Point at 3 miles, a cave in which the Indians have lived below on the Stard. Side near which is a grave yard above an Island and bad rapid on both sides at this rapid the canoe a stern steared by drewyer struck a rock turned the men got out on a rock the stern of the canoe took in water and she sunk the men on the rock hel[d] her,

a number of articles floated all that could be cought were
taken by 2 of the other canoes, Great maney articles lost
among other things 2 of the mens beding shot pouches Tomahaw[k]s
&c. &c. and every article wet. of which we have great
cause to lament as all our loose Powder two Canisters, all our
roots prepared in the Indian way, and one half of our goods,
fortunately the lead canisters which was in the canoe was tied
down, otherwise they must have been lost as the canoe turned
over we got off the men from the rock towd our canoe on
Shore after takeing out all the stores &c. we could & put them
out to dry on the Island on which we found some wood which
was covered with stones, this is the parts of an Indian house,
which we used for fire wood, by the wish of our two chiefs.
Those chee[f]s, one of them was in the canoe, swam in &
saved some property. The Inds. have buried fish on this Isld.
which we are cautious not to touch, our small canoe & three
Indians in another was out of sight at the time our misfortune
hapined, and did not join us. Wind hard S W.

October 14th. Monday 1805

a verry Cold morning wind from the West and Cool untill
about 12 oClock when it Shifted to the S. W. at 2–½ miles
passed a remarkable rock verry large and resembling the hill
[hull] of a Ship Situated on a Lard. point at some distance
from the assending Countrey passed rapids at 6 and 9 miles.
at 12 miles we came too at the head of a rapid which the Indians
told me was verry bad, we viewed the rapid found it bad
in decending three Stern Canoes stuck fast for some time on
the head of the rapid and one struck a rock in the worst part,
fortunately all landed Safe below the rapid which was nearly
3 miles in length. here we dined, and for the first time for
three weeks past I had a good dinner of Blue wing Teel, after
dinner we Set out and had not proceded on two miles before
our Stern Canoe in passing thro a Short rapid opposit the
head of an Island,[10] run on a Smothe rock and turned broad
Side, the men got out on the [rock] all except one of our
Indian Chiefs who swam on Shore, The canoe filed and sunk
a number of articles floated out, Such as the mens bedding
clothes & skins. the Lodge &c &c. the greater part of which
were cought by 2 of the Canoes, whilst a 3rd. was unloading
& Steming the Swift current to the relief of the men on the
rock, who could with much dificuelty hold the Canoe however
in about an hour we got the men an[d] canoe to shore
with the Loss of Some bedding Tomahaw[k]s shot pouches
skins Clothes &c &c. all wet we had every article exposed
to the Sun to dry on the Island, our loss in provisions is
verry considerable all our roots was in the canoe that Sunk,
and Cannot be dried Sufficient to save, our loose powder was
also in the Canoe and is all wete. This I think may be saved,
[we shall save] In this Island we found some Spilt [Split]
timber the parts of a house which the Indians had verry securely
covered with Stone, we also observed a place where the
Indians had buried their fish, we have made it a point at all
times not to take any thing belonging to the Indians even
their wood. but at this time we are Compelled to violate that

rule and take a part of the split timber we find here bur[i]ed
for fire wood, as no other is to be found in any direction. our
Small Canoe which was a head returned at night with 2 ores
which they found floating below. The wind this after noon
from the S. W. as usial and hard.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 15th Tuesday 1805.

a fair morning after a cold night. Some frost this morning
and Ice. Several hunters out saw nothing Capt Lewis assended
the hills & saw Mountain a head bearing S. E. & N W. a high
point to the West. Plains wavering. Set out at 3 oClock

Course

           

South	4 ½	miles to the lower point of a Island, close under the Std Side passed one on the Lard. & one other in the middle of the river, 4 small rapids at the lower pt of 1st Isd opsd 2nd & 3rd Islands
S. E.	1 ½	miles to the lower point of an Isd. close under the Lard. bend opsd. the upper pt. of an Isd. on Std. point a small rapid opposit
S. 35°. W.	9	miles to a Point of rocks on Lard. Sd. passed a place of swift water at the lower point of the 1st. Island a small rapid a little below a Lard. point at 2 miles a Stard point at 4 miles, a Lard. point at 5 miles a Stard point 3 small Isd. opsd. on Lard. & 2 on Stard. Side at 6 ½ a small rapid, several scafles of split timber on the Stard. Side in the bottom below the Islands a Island in the river at 8 ½ miles on Std. Side a fishing timber scaffeled a willow bottom on the Lard Side above the point country lower each side 90 to 100 feet is the hite of the plains some swift water at the last Isd.
	15
South	5	miles to an Island in the head of a rapid Passed for 3 miles through good water inclosed in clifts of rocks 100 feet high. below which the river widens into a Bay nearly round. we Encamped at three scaffles of split timber on the Stard Side. here we found our Pilot & one man wateing for us to show us the best way thro those rapids. the evening cool, we saw no timber to day, except small willow & srub of Hackberry Killed 2 Teel this evening.
	20

Map from Clark Field-book, locating Indian Tribes.

October 15th. Tuesday 1805

a fair morning sent out hunters to hunt in the plains, about
10 oClock they returned and informed that they could not See
any Signs of game of any kind. Capt. Lewis walked on the
plains and informs that he could plainly See a rainge of mountains
which bore S. E. & N. W. the nearest point south
about 60 miles, and becoms high toward the N. W.[11] The
plaines on each side is wavering. Labiesh killed 2 gees & 2
Ducks of the large kind. at two oClock we loaded & Set out,
our Powder & Provisions of roots not sufficently dry. but we
shall put them out at the forks or mouth of this river which is
at no great distance, and at which place we Shall delay to make
some selestial observations &c. passed Eleven Island[s] and
Seven rapids today Several of the rapids verry bad and dificuelt
to pass, The Islands of different sizes and all of round
Stone and Sand, no timber of any kind in Sight of the river,
a fiew small willows excepted; in the evening the countrey
becomes lower not exceding 90 or 100 feet above the water
and back is a wavering Plain on each Side, passed thro:
narrows for 3 miles where the clifts of rocks juted to the river
on each side compressing the water of the river through a
narrow chanel; below which it widens into a kind of bason
nearly round without any proceptiable current. at the lower
part of this bason is a bad dificuelt and dangerous rapid to pass,
at the upper part of this rapid we over took the three Indians
who had Polited [piloted] us thro the rapids from the forks.
those people with our 2 Chiefs had proceeded on to this place
where they thought proper to delay for us to warn us of the
difficulties of this rapid. we landed at a parcel of split timber,
the timber of a house of Indians out hunting the Antilope in
the plains; and raised on scaffolds to save them from the
spring floods. here we were obliged for the first time to take
the property of the Indians without the consent or approbation
of the owner. the night was cold & we made use of a part of
those boards and split logs for fire wood. Killed two teel this

evening. Examined the rapids which we found more dificuelt
to pass than we expected from the Indians information—a
suckcession of sholes, appears to reach from bank to bank for
3 miles which was also intersepted with large rocks Sticking up
in every direction, and the chanel through which we must pass
crooked and narrow. We only made 20 miles today,[12] owing
to the detention in passing rapids &c.

[Clark, first draft:]

Octr. 16th. 1805 Wednesday.

a cool morning set out early passed the rapid with all the
canoes except Serjt. Pryors which run on a rock near the lower
part of the rapid and stuck fast, by the assistance of the 3
other canoes she was unloaded and got off the rock without
any further injorey than the wetting the greater part of her
loading. loaded and proceeded on I walked around this rapid
Course

         

S. 12°. E	3	miles to the Lard. bend passed a bad rapid all the way. here one canoe stuck bad rapid
S. 60°. W.	3	miles to a Stard. bend to a scaffel of split timber on an Island opsd. 2 other Isds. on Lard.
S. 10°. W.	3	miles to a Point of rocks at a rapid opsd. the upper part of small Island on the Lard. Side, passed a rapid at the lower point of the 3 first Isds. one at the Lard. pt. 1 ½ ms below swift water
S. 50°. W.	6	miles to Lard pt. opsd. a rapid & a pt. of an Island the countrey low on both sides, Passed a rapid at 3 miles, passed a verry Bad rapid or falls, obliged to unload at 5 miles at the lower point of a small Island Stard dined Loaded 5 Inds came to us
S. 28 W.	6 ½	miles to the Junction of Columbia in the Stard Point & Passed the rapid opposit the upper Point of the said Island and Passed a small Isd. on Lard Side opposit, passed the lower point of the Island on Stard Side at 2 ½ miles a gravelley bare [bar] in the river at 3 miles, river wide Countrey on each side low, a rainge of hills on the west imedeately in front on the opposit side of Columbia

Columbia River and its waters, showing fishing establishments,
sketch-map River by Clark.

We halted a short time above the point and smoked with
the Indians, & examined the point and best place for our camp,
we camped on the Columbia River a little above the point I
saw about 200 men comeing down from their villages & were
turned back by the Chief, after we built our fires of what
wood we could collect, & get from the Indians, the Chief
brought down all his men singing and danceing as they came,
formed a ring and dancd for some time around us we gave
them a smoke, and they returned [to] the village a little above,
the chief & several delay untill I went to bead. bought 7 dogs
& they gave us several fresh salmon & some horse dried

October 16th. Wednesday 1805

A cool morning, deturmined to run the rapids, put our
Indian guide in front our Small Canoe next and the other four
following each other, the canoes all passed over Safe except
the rear Canoe which run fast on a rock at the lower part of
the Rapids, with the early assistance of the other Canoes & the
Indians, who was extreamly ellert every thing was taken out
and the Canoe got off without any enjorie further than the
articles [with] which it was loaded [getting] all wet. at 14
miles passed a bad rapid at which place we unloaded and made
a portage of ¾ of a mile[13] haveing passd 4 Smaller rapids, three
Islands and the parts of a house above, I Saw Indians &
Horses on the South Side below five Indians came up the
river in great haste, we Smoked with them and gave them a
piece of tobacco to Smoke with their people and sent them
back, they Set out in a run & continued to go as fast as they
could run as far as we could see them. after getting Safely
over the rapid and haveing taken Diner Set but and proceeded
on Seven miles to the junction of this river and the Columbia
which joins from the N. W. passd a rapid two Islands and a
graveley base, and imediately in the mouth a rapid above an
Island. In every direction from the junction of those rivers
the countrey is one continued plain low and rises from the
water gradually, except a range of high Countrey which runs

from S.W. & N. E. and is on the opposit Side about 2 miles
distant from the Collumbia and keeping its derection S. W.
untill it joins a S. W. range of mountains.

We halted above the point on the river Kimooenim[14] to
smoke with the Indians who had collected there in great
numbers to view us, here we met our 2 Chiefs who left us
two days ago and proceeded on to this place to inform those
bands of our approach and friendly intentions towards all
nations &c. we also met the 2 men who had passed us Several
days ago on horsback, one of them we observed was a man
of great influence with those Indians, harranged them; after
Smokeing with the Indians who had collected to view us we
formed a camp at the point near which place I saw a fiew pieces
of Drift wood after we had our camp fixed and fires made, a
Chief came from this camp which was about ¼ of a mile up
the Columbia river at the head of about 200 men singing and
beeting on their drums Stick and keeping time to the musik,
they formed a half circle around us and Sung for Some time,
we gave them all Smoke, and Spoke to their Chief as well as
we could by signs informing them of our friendly disposition
to all nations, and our joy in Seeing those of our Children
around us, Gave the principal chief a large Medal, Shirt and
Handkf. a 2nd. Chief a Meadel of Small size, and to the Cheif
who came down from the upper villages a Small Medal &
Handkerchief.

The Chiefs then returned with the men to their camp; Soon
after we purchased for our Provisions Seven Dogs, Some fiew
of those people made us presents of fish and Several returned
and delayed with us untill bedtime. The 2 old chiefs who
accompanied us from the head of the river precured us Some
fuil Such as the Stalks of weed[s] or plant[s] and willow bushes.
one man made me a present of a about 20lb. of verry fat Dried
horse meat.

great quantities of a kind of prickley pares,[15] much worst than

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping places,
October 16–18, 1805.

any I have before seen of a tapering form and attach themselves
by bunches.[16]

[Clark, first draft:]

October 17th. Thursday 1805 Forks of Columbia.

Took altitude with Sextant as follows

       

	h	m	s
A M.	7	40	13
	"	42	58	altitude produced 22°–25′–15″
	43	44

Observed time and distance of Son and Moons nearest Limbs the Sun
East (at the Point)
                           

		Time			distance
	H.	M.	S.
A.M.	7	51	43	60°	47′	15″
	"	53	33	"	46	30
	"	54	35	"	45	45
	"	55	55	"	45
	"	57	37	"	45	00
	"	58	29	"	44	00
	8	00	26	"	43	45
	"	1	22	"	43	15
	"	3	8	"	43	00
	"	4	43	"	42	30
	"	6	5	"	43
	"	7	52	"	41	30

Magnetick azmoth. Time and distance of tyhe sun &c.

       

Azmth.	Time	distance
	H. M. S.
S 75° E	8 15 45	33° 4′ 30″
S. 74°. E	8 19 43	34 13 ″

Took Equal altitudes

       

	H.	M	S		h	m	s
A M.	8	23	00	PM.	3	21	53
	"	24	55		"	23	50
	"	26	49		"	25	42

Altitude produced is 35°–9′–30″

This morning after the Luner observations, the old chief
came down, and several men with dogs to sell & womin with
fish &c. the Dogs we purchased the fish not good.

I took 2 men and set out in a small canoe with a view to go
as high up the Columbia river as the 1st. fork which the Indians
made signs was but a short distance, I set out at 2 oClock
first course was N. 83° W 6 miles to the lower point of a Island
on the Lard Side, passed an Island in the middle of the river at
5 miles, at the head of which is a rapid not bad at this rapid
3 Lodges of mats on the Lard emence quantites of dried fish.
Then West 4 miles to the Lower point of an Island on the
Stard. Side 2 lodges of Indians large and built of mats,
passed 3 verry large mat lodges at 2 mile on the Stard Side
large scaffols of fish drying at every lodge, and piles of salmon
lying, the squars engaged prepareing them for the scaffol.
a squar gave me a dried salmon. from those lodges on the
Island an Indian showed me the mouth of the river which falls
in below a high hill on the Lard. N. 80°. W. 8 miles from the
Island. The river bending Lard. This river is remarkably
clear and crouded with salmon in maney places, I observe in
assending great numbers of salmon dead on the shores, floating
on the water and in the Bottom which can be seen at the debth
of 20 feet, the cause of the emence numbers of dead salmon
I can't account for so it is I must have seen 3 or 400 dead
and maney living the Indians, I believe made us[e] of the fish
which is not long dead as, I struck one nearly dead and left
him floating, some Indians in a canoe behind took the fish on
board his canoe

The bottoms on the South side as high as the Tarcouche
tesse[17] is from 1 to 2 miles wide, back of the bottoms rises to
hilly countrey, the Plain is low on the North & Easte for
a great distance no wood to be seen in every direction.

The Tarcouche tesse bears South of West, the Columbia
N W above [a] range of hills on the West Parralel a range
of mountains to the East which appears to run nearly North
& South distance not more than 50 miles. I returned to the
point at Dusk followed by three canoes of Indians 20 in number.

I killed a Fowl of the Pheasent kind as large as a small
turkey. The length from his Beeck to the end of its tail
2 feet 6 ¾ Inches, from the extremity of its wings across 3 feet
6 Inches, the tail feathers 13 Inches long, feeds on grasshoppers,
and the seed of wild Isoop Those Indians are
orderly, badly dressed in the same fashions of those above
except the women who wore short shirts and a flap over their
22d. Fishing houses of Mats robes of Deer, Goat & Beaver.

October 17th. Thursday 1805

A fair morning made the above observations during which
time the principal Chief came down with Several of his principal
men and smoked with us; Several men and woman offered
Dogs and fish to Sell, we purchased all the dogs we could, the
fish being out of season and dieing in great numbers in the
river, we did not think proper to use them, send out Hunters
to shute the Prarie Cock a large fowl which I have only Seen
on this river, several of which I have killed, they are the size
of a Small turkey, of the pheasant kind, one I killed on the
water [s] edge to day measured from the Beak to the end of the
toe 2 feet 6 & ¾ Inches; from the extremities of its wings
3 feet 6 inches; the tale feathers is 13 inches long: they feed
on grasshoppers and the Seed of the wild plant which is also
peculiar to this river and the upper parts of the Missoury
somewhat resembling the whins. Capt. Lewis took a Vocabelary
of the Language of those people who call themselves
Sokulk, and also one of the language of a nation resideing on
a Westerly fork of the Columbia which mouthes a fiew miles
above this place who Call themselves Chim-nâ-pum Some fiew
of this nation reside with the Sokulks nation. Their language
differ but little from either the Sokulks or the Chô-pun-nish (or
pierced nose) nation which inhabit the Koskoskea river and
Lewis's R below.[18]

I took two men in a Small canoe and assended the Columbia
river 10 miles to an Island near the Stard. Shore on which two

large Mat Lodges of Indians were drying Salmon, (as they
informed me by Signs for the purpose of food and fuel, & I do
not think [it] at all improbable that those people make use of
Dried fish as fuel, The number of dead Salmon on the Shores
& floating in the river is incrediable to say—and at this Season
they have only to collect the fish Split them open and dry them
on their Scaffolds on which they have great numbers, how far
they have to raft their timber they make their scaffolds of
I could not lern; but there is no timber of any sort except
Small willow bushes in sight in any direction. from this Island
the natives showed me the enterance of a large Westerly fork
which they Call Tâpetêtt at about 8 miles distant, the evening
being late I deturmined to return to the forks, at which place
I reached at Dark.[19] from the point up the Columbia River is
N. 83°. W. 6 miles to the lower point of an Island near the
Lard. Side, passed a Island in the middle of the river at 5 miles
at the head of which is a rapid, not dangerous on the Lard. Side
opposit to this rapid is a fishing place 3 Mat Lodges, and great
quants. of Salmon on scaffolds drying. Saw great numbers of
Dead Salmon on the Shores and floating in the water, great
numbers of Indians on the banks viewing me and 18 canoes
accompanied me from the point. The waters of this river is
clear, and a Salmon may be seen at the deabth of 15 or 20 feet.
West 4 miles to the lower point of a large Island near the
Stard. Side at 2 Lodges, passed three large lodges on the Stard.
Side near which great number of Salmon was drying on scaffolds
one of those Mat lodges I entered found it crouded
with men women and children and near the enterance of those
houses I saw maney squars engaged [in] splitting and drying
Salmon. I was furnished with a mat to set on, and one man
set about prepareing me something to eate, first he brought
in a piece of a Drift log of pine and with a wedge of the elks
horn, and a malet of Stone curioesly carved he Split the log
into Small pieces and lay'd it open on the fire on which he put
round Stones, a woman handed him a basket of water and
a large Salmon about half Dried, when the Stones were hot
he put them into the basket of water with the fish which was
soon sufficently boiled for use it was then taken out put on
a platter of rushes neetly made, and set before me they boiled
a Salmon for each of the men with me, dureing those preparations,
I smoked, with those about me who chose to smoke
which was but fiew, this being a custom those people are but
little accustomed to and only Smok thro: form. after eateing
the boiled fish which was delicious, I set out & halted or come
too on the Island at the two Lodges, Several fish was given
to me, in return for Which I gave Small pieces of ribbond
from those Lodges the natives Showed me the mouth of Tap
teel River about 8 miles above on the West Side this western
fork appears to beare nearly West, the main Columbia river
N. W. a range of high land to the S. W. and parralal
to the river and at the distance of 2 miles on the Lard. Side,
the countrey Low on the Stard. Side, and all coverd. with
a weed or plant about 2 & three feet high and resembles
the whins. I can proceive a range of mountains to the East
which appears to bare N. & South distant about 50 or 60
miles. no wood to be Seen in any derection, on my return
I was followd. by 3 canoes in which there was 20 Indians
I shot a large Prairie Cock Several grouse, Ducks and fish. on
my return found Great numbs. of the nativs with Capt. Lewis,
men all employ[e]d in dressing ther skins mending their clothes
and putting their arms in the best order the latter being always
a matter of attention with us. The Dress of those natives
differ but little from those on the Koskoskia and Lewis's
rivers, except the women who dress verry different, in as much
as those above ware long leather Shirts which [are] highly
ornimented with beeds shells &c. &c. and those on the main
Columbia river only ware a truss or pece of leather tied around
them at their hips and drawn tite between ther legs and fastened
before So as bar[e]ly to hide those parts which are so
sacredly hid & s[e]cured by our women. Those women are
more inclined to Co[r]pulency than any we have yet Seen, with
low Stature broad faces, heads flatened and the foward [forehead]
compressed so as to form a Streight line from the nose to
the Crown of the head, their eyes are of a Duskey black, their
hair of a corse black without orniments of any kind braded
as above

The orniments of each Sects are Similar, Such as large blue
& white beeds, either pendant from their ears or incircling their
necks, wrists & arms. they also ware bracelets of Brass, Copper
& horn, and trinkets of Shells, fish bones and curious
feathers. Their garments consists of a short shirt of leather
and a roabe of the Skins of Deer or the antilope, but fiew of
them ware Shirts all have Short robes. Those people appears
to live in a State of comparitive happiness: they take a great[er]
share [in the] labor of the woman, than is common among Savage
tribes, and as I am informed [are] content with one wife
(as also those on the Ki moo e nim river) Those people
respect the aged with Veneration. I observed an old woman
in one of the Lodges which I entered, She was entirely blind
as I was informed by signs, had lived more than 100 winters,
She occupied the best position in the house, and when She
Spoke great attention was paid to what she Said. Those people
as also those of the flat heads which we had passed on the
Koskoske and Lewis's rivers are subject to sore eyes, and many
are blind of one and Some of both eyes. this misfortune must
be owing to the reflections of the sun &c. on the waters in
which they are continually fishing during the Spring Summer
& fall, & the snows dureing the, winter Seasons, in this open
countrey where the eye has no rest. I have observed amongst
those, as well in all other tribes which I have passed on these
waters who live on fish maney of different sectes who have lost
their teeth about middle age, Some have their teeth worn to the
gums, perticelar[ly] those of the upper jaw, and the tribes generally
have bad teeth the cause of it I cannot account [for],
sand attachd. to the roots & the method they have of useing the
dried Salmon, which is mearly worming it and eating the rine
& scales with the flesh of the fish, no doubt contributes to it.

The Houses or Lodges of the tribes of the main Columbia
river is of large Mats made of rushes, those houses are from
15 to 60 feet in length generally of an Oblong squar form, Suported
by poles on forks in the in[n]er Side, Six feet high, the

top is covered also with mats leaveing a Seperation in the whole
length of about 12 or 15 inches wide, left for the purpose of
admitting light and for the Smok of the fire to pass which is made
in the middle of the house. The roughfs are nearly flat, which
proves to me that rains are not common in this open Countrey.

Those people appeare of a mild disposition and friendly disposed.
They have in their huts independant of their nets gigs
& fishing tackling each bows & large quivers of arrows on
which they use flint Spikes. Their ammusements are similar
to those of the Missouri. they are not beggerley, and receive
what is given them with much joy.

I saw but fiew horses they appeared [to] make but little use
of those animals principally useing Canoes for their uses of
procuring food &c.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 18th. Friday 1805.

a cold morning faire & wind from S E several Heath hens
or large Pheasents lit near us & the men killed six of them.
Took one altitude of the Suns upper Limb 28°. 22′ 15″
at

   

h	m	s
8.	1.	24.

A. M. Several Indian canoes come down & joind
those with us. made a second Chief by giveing a Meadel &
Wampom I also gave a string of wampom to the old Chief
who came down with us and informed the Indians of our views
and intentions in a council

Observed time and distance of Sun & Moons nearest Limbs Sun East

                           

	Time			distance
H.	m	s
9	37	46	47°	15′	30″
"	40	32	"	14	15
"	41	47	"	14	00
"	42	55	"	13	30
"	43	44	"	12	45
"	46	2	"	12	30
"	47	18	"	12	00
"	48	35	"	11	45
"	49	44	"	11	15
"	50	53	"	11	00
"	52	00	"	9	30
"	53	46	"	9	30

Took a second altitude of the Suns upper Limb 58° – 34′ –
45″ at

   

h	m	s
10	3	59

Measured the width of the Columbia
River from the Point across to a Point of View is S 22° W.
from the Point up the Columbia to a Point of view is N. 84°.
W. 148 poles, thence across to the 1st. point of view is S 28
½ E.

Measured the width of Ke-moo-e-nim River, from the Point
across to an object on the opposit side is N. 41 ½ E from the
Point up the river is N. 8. E. 82 poles thence across to the
Point of view is N. 79°. East

Distance across the Columbia 960 ¾ yards water

Distance across the Ki-moo-e-nim 575 yds water

Names of this nation above the mouth of the Ki-moo-e-nim
is So-kulk Perced noses The Names of the nation on the Kimooenim
River is Cho-pun-nish Piercd noses at the Prarie the
name of a nation at the Second forks of the Tape tett River,
or Nocktosh fork Chim-nâ-pum, some of which reside with the
Sokulks above this and at a few miles distance 4 men in a
canoe come up from below stayed a fiew minits and returned.

Took a meridian altitude 68° – 57′ – 30″ the suns upper
Limb, the Lattitude produced is 46° – 15′ – 13″ 9/10 North,
Capt Lewis took a vocabillary of the Sokulk or Pierced noses
Language and Chim-nâ-pum Language whic[h] is in some
words different but orriginally the same people, The Great
Chief Cuts-sâh nem gave me a sketch of the rivers & Tribes
above on the great river & its waters on which he put great numbers
of villages of his nation & friends, as noted on the sketch.

The fish being very bad those which was offerd to us we
had every reason to believe was taken up on the shore dead
we thought proper not to purchase any, we purchased forty
dogs for which we gave articles of little value, such as beeds,
bells & thimbles, of which they appeared verry fond, at 4
oClock we set out down the Great Columbia accompanied by
our two old Chiefs, one young man wished to accompany
us, but we had no room for more, & he could be of no
service to us.

The great chief continued with us untill our departure.

Course

         

S. 55°. E.	12	miles a Lard. bend lower part of a bad rapid and several little stony Islands passed. an Island imediately in the mouth of the Kimoo-e nim one in the mid river at 8 miles this Island of corse gravel and 3 miles long, the Columbia more than a mile wide, banks low not subject to overflow an Island on the Stard. Side from opd the center the last 3 ½ miles long. no timber in view opsd. the center of this Island and below the larst a Island in the middle with 9 Lodges and a great quantity of fish on its upper point, a small Island imediately below opsd. the upper Pt. of which the rapid commences several small [islands] on the Lard Side
S. 2O°. E.	2½	miles to 2 Lodges of Indians on a small Island Stard. point
S. E	1 ½	miles to mo. of a river 40 yds wide under a high clift in the Lard. bend here the river enters the high countrey rising abt 200 feet above the water large black rocks makeing out from Lard. half across the river and some distance from Stard. Side.
S. 12° W.	4	miles to a point of rocks in a Lard. bend, passed a small Isd. passed a 2d. at 2 miles, on its upper Point 2 Lodges of Indians fishing at a rapid opsd. the lower point psd. 9 Lodges of Indians fishing on an Island on the Stard Side below about 1 mile 5 Lodges on the Stard. Side, passed a Island in middle of river at 3 m.
	21

we Encamped a little below & opsd. the lower point of the
Island on the Lard. Side[20] no wood to be found we were
obliged to make use [of] small dried willows to cook. our
old chief informed us that the great chief of all the nations
about lived at the 9 Lodges above and wished us to land &c.
he said he would go up and call him over they went up and
did not return untill late at night, about 20 came down &
built a fire above and stayed all night. The chief brough[t] a
basket of mashed berries.

October 18th. Friday 1805

This morning Cool and fare wind from the S. E. six of
the large Prarie cock killed this morning. Several canoes of
Indians came down and joined those with us, we had a council
with those in which we informed of our friendly intentions
towards them and all other of our red children, of our wish to
make a piece between all of our red Children in this quarter
&c. &c. this was conveyed by signs thro: our 2 Chiefs who
accompanied us, and was understood, we made a 2d. Chief
and gave Strings of wompom to them all in remembrance of
what we Said. four men in a Canoe came up from a large
encampment on an Island in the River about 8 miles below,
they delayed but a fiew minits and returned, without Speaking
a word to us.

The Great Chief and one of the Chim-nâ-pum nation drew
me a sketch of the Columbia above and the tribes of his nation,
living on the bank[s], and its waters, and the Tâpe-tett river
which falls in 18 miles above on the westerly side See sketch
below for the number of villages and nations &c. &c.[21]

we thought it necessary to lay in a Store of Provisions for
our voyage, and the fish being out of Season, we purchased
forty dogs for which we gave articles of little value, such as
bells, thimbles, knitting pins, brass wire and a few beeds [with]
all of which they appeared well Satisfied and pleased.

every thing being arranged we took in our Two Chiefs, and
set out on the great Columbia river, haveing left our guide
and the two young men two of them enclined not to proceed
on any further, and the 3d. could be of no service to us as he
did not know the river below

Took our leave of the Chiefs and all those about us and
proceeded on down the great Columbia river passed a large

Junction of Columbia and Lewis's Rivers,
sketch-map by Clark.

Island at 8 miles about 3 miles in length, a Island on the Stard.
Side the upper point of which is opposit the center of the last
mentioned Island and reaches 3–½ miles below the 1st. Island
and opposit to this near the middle of the river nine Lodges
are Situated on the upper point at a rapid which is between the
lower point of the 1st. Island and upper point of this; great
numbers of Indians appeared to be on this Island, and emence
quantites of fish scaffold[s] we landed a few minits to view a
rapid which commenced at the lower point, passd. this rapid
which was verry bad, between 2 Small Islands, two Still Smaller
near the Lard. Side, at this rapid on the Stard. Side is Lodges
of Indians Drying fish, at 2–½ miles lower and 14–½ below
the point passed an Island Close under the Stard. Side on which
was 2 Lodges of Indians drying fish on Scaffolds as above at
16 miles from the point the river passes into the range of high
Countrey, at which place the rocks project into the river from
the high clifts which is on the Lard. Side about ⅓ of the way
across and those of the Stard. Side about the same distance,
the countrey rises here about 200 feet above the water and is
bordered with black rugid rocks, at the Commencement of
this high countrey on Lard. Side a Small riverlet falls in which
appears to [have] passed under the high county. in its whole
co[ur]se. saw a mountain bearing S. W. conocal form Covered
with Snow.[22] passed 4 Islands, at the upper point of the 3rd. is
a rapid, on this Island is two Lodges of Indians, drying fish,
on the fourth Island close under the Stard. Side is nine large
Lodges of Indians Drying fish on scaffolds as above at this
place we were called to to land, as it was near night, and no
appearance of wood, we proceeded on about 2 miles lower to
Some Willows, at which place we observed a drift log formed
a camp on the Lard. Side under a high hill nearly opposit to
five Lodges of Indians; Soon after we landed, our old Chiefs
informed us that the large camp above "was the Camp of the
1st. Chief of all the tribes in this quarter, and that he had called
to us to land and Stay all night with him, that he had plenty of
wood for us &c." This would have been agreeable to us if it
had have been understood perticelarly as we were compelled to
use drid willows for fuel for the purpose of cooking, we requested
the old Chiefs to walk up on the Side we had landed
and call to the chief to come down and Stay with us all night
which they did, late at night the Chief came down accompanied
by 20 men, and formed a camp a short distance above,
the chief brought with him a large basket of mashed berries
which he left at our Lodge as a present. I saw on the main
land opposit those Lodges a number of horses feeding, we
made 21 miles to day.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 19th. Saturday.

The Great Chief 2d. Chief and a Chief of a band below came
and smoked with us we gave a meadel a string of Wampom
& handkerchef to the Great Chief by name Yel-lep-pit[23] The
2d. Chief we gave a string of wampom, his name is [blank
space in MS.] The 3d. who lives below a string of wampom
his name I did not learn. the Chief requested us to stay untill
12 we excused our selves and set out at 9 oClock

Course

         

S W.	14	miles to a rock in a Lard. resembling a hat just below a rapid at the lower Point of an Island in the middle of the river 7 Lodges and opposit the head of one on the Star Side 5 Lodges passed an Island at 8 miles 6 miles long close to Lard Side no water on Lard. a small one opsd. and at the lower point no water Lard. passed an Isld. in middle at 8 miles on which 5 Indian Lodges, deserted at the end of this course a bad rockey place plenty of water rocks in the river. passed a Stard. point at 4 miles country a little lower
S. 80°. W.	7	miles to a Point of rocks on the Stard bend Passed the Island on Std. side at 1 mile passed a verry bad rapid above the end of this course. 2 miles in length with several small Islands in it & Banks of Mussle shells in the rapids. here the lower countrey commences. Saw a high mountain covered with snow West this we suppose to be Mt. St Helens
S. 70° W.	12	miles to & passed 20 Lodges of Indians scattered allong the Stard Side drying fish & Prickley pares (to Burn in winter) I went on shore in a small canoe a head, landed at the first 5 Lodges, found the Indians much fritened, all got into their lodges and when I went in found some hanging down their heads, some crying and others in great agitation, I took all by the hand and distributed a few small articles which I chanced to have in my pockets and smoked with them which expelled their fears, soon after the canoes landed & we all smoked and were friendly. I gave a string of Wampom to the Principal man, we dined on dryed salmon & set out. I am confident that I could have tomahawked every Indian here. The Language is the same as those above, those Lodges can turn out 350 men. I shot a Crain & 2 Ducks and opposit to a Lodge on the Stard. Side, one mile below a rapid. a high Mountain S. W. from the Muscle Shell rapid.
S. W.	3	miles to a few willow Trees on the Lard. Side below the lower pt. of an Isd. Ld. opposit 24 Lodges of Indians fishing. here we came too and camped, 19 of them on the Stard. Side and 5 on an Island in the middle of the river, about 100 Inds. come over some brought
	36	wood and we gave smoke to all which they were pleased at

P. Crusat played on the violin which pleased and astonished
those [w]reches who are badly clad, ¾ with robes not half
large enough to cover them, they are homeley high cheeks,
and but fiew orniments. I suped on the crane which I killed
to day.

October 19th. Saturday 1805

The great chief Yel-lep-pit two other chiefs, and a chief of
[a] Band below presented themselves to us verry early this
morning. we Smoked with them, enformed them as we had
all others above as well as we could by signs of our friendly
intentions towards our red children perticelar those who opened
their ears to our Councils. we gave a Medal, a Handkercheif
& a String Wompom to Yelleppit and a String of wompom
to each of the others. Yelleppit is a bold handsom Indian,
with a dignified countenance about 35 years of age, about
5 feet 8 inches high and well perpotiond. he requested us to
delay untill the Middle of the day, that his people might
come down and see us, we excused our Selves and promised
to stay with him one or 2 days on our return which appeared
to Satisfy him; great numbers of Indians came down in
Canoes to view us before we Set out which was not untill
9 oClock A. M. we proceeded on passed a Island, close
under the Lard. Side about six miles in length opposit to the
lower point of which two Isds. are situated on one of which
five Lodges vacent & S[c]affolds [of] dryed fish at the upper
point of this Island Swift water. a Short distance below passed
two Islands, one near the middle of the river on which is Seven
lodges of Indians drying fish, at our approach they hid themselves
in their Lodges and not one was to be seen untill we
passed, they then came out, in greater numbers than is common
in Lodges of their Size, it is probable that the inhabitants of
the 5 Lodges above had in a fright left their lodges and decended
to this place to defend themselves if attackted there
being a bad rapid opposit the Island thro which we had to pass
prevented our landing on this Island and passifying those
people, about four miles below this fritened Island we arrived
at the head of a verry bad rapid,[24] we came too on the Lardd.
Side to view the rapid before we would venter to run it, as
the Chanel appeared to be close under the oppd. Shore, and
it would be necessary to liten our canoe, I deturmined to walk
down on the Lard. Side, with the 2 chiefs the interpreter & his

Map from Clark Field-book, Course and Camping place,
October 19, 1805.

woman, and derected the Small canoe to pr[o]cede down on
the Lard. Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles
in length I sent on the Indian chief &c. down. and I
assended a high clift about 200 feet above the water from the
top of which is a leavel plain extending up the river and off
for a great extent, at this place the countrey becoms low on
each Side of the river, and affords a pros[pect] of the river and
countrey below for great extent both to the right and left;
from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence hight
covered with Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid
down by Vancouver, as seen from the mouth of the Columbia
River, from the course which it bears which is West I take it
to be Mt. St. Helens, destant about 120 miles a range of
mountains in the Derection crossing a conical mountain S. W.
toped with snow,[25] This rapid I observed as I passed opposit
to it to be verry bad intersep[t]ed with high rock and Small
rockey Islands, here I observed banks of Muscle Shells
banked up in the river in Several places, I delayed at the
foot of the rapid about 2 hours for the canoes which I could
see met with much dificuelty in passing down the rapid on the
oposit Side maney places the men were obliged to get into
the water and haul the canoes over sholes while Setting on
a rock wateing for Capt. Lewis I shot a crain which was flying
over of the common kind. I observed a great number of
Lodges on the opposit Side at some distance below, and
Several Indians on the opposit bank passing up to where
Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes, others I saw on a knob
nearly opposit to me at which place they delayed but a Short
time, before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they could
run, I was fearfull that those people might not be informed of
us, I deturmined to take the little canoe which was with me
and proceed with the three men in it to the Lodges, on my
aproach not one person was to be seen except three men off
in the plains, and they sheared off as I saw approached near
the Shore, I landed in front of five Lodges which was at no
great distance from each other, Saw no person the enterance
or Dores of the Lodges wer Shut with the Same materials of
which they were built a Mat, I approached one with a pipe
in my hand entered a lodge which was the nearest to me found
32 persons men, women and a few children Setting permiscuisly
in the Lodge, in the greatest agutation, Some crying and
ringing there hands, others hanging their heads. I gave my
hand to them all and made Signs of my friendly dispo[si]tion
and offered the men my pipe to Smok and distributed a fiew
Small articles which I had in my pockets, this measure
passified those distressed people verry much, I then sent one
man into each lodge and entered a Second myself the inhabitants
of which I found more fritened than those of the
first lodge I destributed Sundrey Small articles amongst them,
and Smoked with the men, I then entered the third 4th. & fifth
Lodge which I found Somewhat passified, the three men,
Drewer Jo. & R. Fields, haveing useed everey means in their
power to convince them of our friendly disposition to them, I
then Set my self on a rock and made signs to the men to come
and Smoke with me not one come out untill the canoes arrived
with the 2 chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud, and as was their
custom to all we had passed. the Indians came out & Set by
me and smoked They said we came from the clouds[26] &c. &c.
and were not men &c. &c. this time Capt. Lewis came down
with the canoes in which the Indian[s were], as Soon as they
Saw the Squar wife of the interperter they pointed to her and
informed those who continued yet in the Same position I first
found them, they imediately all came out and appeared to
assume new life, the sight of This Indian woman, wife to one
of our interprs. confirmed those people of our friendly intentions,
as no woman ever accompanies a war party of Indians in this
quarter. [See Descriptions] Capt. Lewis joined us and we
smoked with those people in the greatest friendship, dureing
which time one of our Old Chiefs informed them who we were
from whence we came and where we were going giveing them
a friendly account of us, those people do not speak prosisely
the same language of those above but understand them, I
saw Several Horses and persons on horsback in the plains
maney of the men womin and children came up from the
Lodges below, all of them appeared pleased to see us, we
traded some fiew articles for fish and berries, Dined, and
proceeded on passed a Small rapid and 15 Lodges below the
five, and Encamped[27] below an Island close under the Lard.
Side, nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island near the
middle of the river, and the Main Stard. Shore Soon after
we landed which was at a fiew willow trees about 100 Indians
came from the different Lodges, and a number of them brought
wood which they gave us, we Smoked with all of them, and
two of our Party Peter Crusat & Gibson played on the violin
which delighted them greatly, we gave to the principal man
a String of wompon treated them kindly for which they
appeared greatfull, This Tribe [a branch of the nation called
Pisch quit pás][28] can raise about 350 men their Dress are
Similar to those at the fork except their robes are smaller and
do not reach lower than the waste ¾ of them have scercely
any robes at all, the women have only a Small pece of a robe
which covers their Sholders neck and reaching down behind to
their wastes, with a tite piece of leather about the waste, the
brests are large and hang down verry low illy Shaped, high
Cheeks flattened heads, & have but fiew orniments, they
are all employed in fishing and drying fish of which they
have great quantities on their scaffolds, their habits customs
&c. I could not lern. I killed a Duck that with the Crain
afforded us a good Supper. the Indians continued all night
at our fires. This day we made 36 miles.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 20th. 1805 Sunday.

A very cold morning wind S W. about 100 Indians come
over this morning to see us, after a smoke, a brackfast on Dogs
flesh we set out, [There are] about 350 men [of these Indians.]

           

West	6	miles to a Std bend Head of a rapid passed the Island at 1 mile 3 Indn Lodges on Lard.
S. 20°. W.	10	miles passed rockey bad rapid on the Stard a chain of rocks from the Std several small Isd. on the Lard. good water. passed an Indian fishing camp of 4 Lodges deserted, fish hanging on scaffels (saw great numbers of Pelicans & comerants, black) To a Lard. Bend opsd a large Isd. on the Stard. Side
S. 60° W.	8	miles to the commencement of a high countrey on the Stard. Side, passed 3 Islands nearly opposit, 2 furst on the Stard. Side Indians encamped on each Island. we came to at some camps on the lower point of the 1st. & dined. purchased a fiew indifferent fish & some berries examined a vault &c. &.c passed 4 Lodges on a Island near the Stard. side opsd. a bad rapid at the lower point of the Island
S. W.	18	miles to a Point of high land in the Std. bend Passed a large Island in the middle of the R at 8 miles one on the Lard. & one on the Stard. below both small, one other imedeately below in the middle, passed a
	42	Lard. point at 10 miles high uneavin lands on the Stard. low and leavil on the Lard. Side Passed 5 Islands small on the Stard. Side and 5 on the Lard. Side a small one in the middle of the river at 16 miles. The land is higher on the Lard. side passed a small riffle at the head of the 12 Islands in this day
	42

Killed 2 large speckle guls 4 Duck in malade [mallard]
small ducks the flavour of which much resembles the canvis
back. no timber of any kind on the river, we saw in the
last Lodges acorns of the white oake which the Inds. inform
they precure above the falls. The men are badly dressed,
some have scarlet & blue cloth robes. one has a salors jacket,
The women have a short indiferent shirt, a short robe of Deer

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping place,
October 20, 1805.

or Goat skin, & a small skin which they fasten tite around
their bodies & fasten between the legs to hide the [blank space
in MS.]

October 20th Sunday 1805

A cool morning wind S. W. we concluded to delay untill
after brackfast which we were obliged to make on the flesh of
dog. after brackfast we gave all the Indian men Smoke and
we Set out leaveing about 200 of the nativs at our Encampment,
passd. three Indian Lodges on the Lard. Side a little
below our camp which lodges I did not discover last evening,
passed a rapid at seven miles one at a Short distance below
we passed a verry bad rapid, a chane of rocks makeing from
the Stard. Side and nearly chokeing the river up entirely with
hugh black rocks, an Island below close under the Stard.
Side on which was four Lodges of Indians drying fish, here
I saw a great number of Pelicons on the wing, and black
Comerants. at one oClock we landed on the lower point of
an Island at Some Indian Lodges, a large Island on the
Stard. Side nearly opposit and a Small one a little below on
the Lard. Side, on those three Island[s] I counted seventeen
Indian lodges, those people are in every respect like those
above, prepareing fish for theire winter consumption, here we
purchased a fiew indifferent Dried fish & a fiew berries on
which we dined (on the upper part of this Island we discovered
an Indian Vault,[29] our curiosity induced us to examine the
method those nativs practiced in depos[it]eing the dead, the
vau[l]t was made by broad poads [boards] and pieces of
Canoes leaning on a ridge pole which was Suported by 2 forks
Set in the ground six feet in hight in an easterly and westerly
direction and about 60 feet in length, and 12 feet wide, in it
I observed great numbers of humane bones of every description
perticularly in a pile near the center of the vault, on the
East End 21 Scul bomes forming a circle on Mats; in the
westerley part of the Vault appeared to be appropriated for
those of more resent death, as many of the bodies of the

deceased raped up in leather robes, lay [in rows] on board[s]
covered with mats, &c [when bones & robes rot, they are gathered
in a heap & sculls placed in a circle] we observed, independant
of the canoes which served as a covering, fishing nets of various
kinds, Baskets of different Sizes, wooden boles, robes Skins,
trenchers, and various kind of trinkets, in and suspended on
the ends of the pieces forming the vault; we also Saw the
Skeletons of Several Horses at the vault a great number of
bones about it, which convinced me that those animals were
Sacrefised as well as the above articles to the Deceased.) after
diner we proceeded on to a bad rapid at the lower point of
a Small Island on which four Lodges of Indians were Situated
drying fish; here the high countrey commences again on the
Stard. Side leaveing a vallie of 40 miles in width, from the
mustle shel rapid. examined and passed this rapid close to
the Island at 8 miles lower passed a large Island near the
middle of the river, a brook on the Stard. Side and 11 Islds. all
in view of each other below, a riverlit [rivulet] falls in on the
Lard. Side behind a Small Island a Small rapid below, The
Star Side is high rugid hills, the Lar.d Side a low plain and
not a tree to be Seen in any Direction except a new Small
willow bushes which are scattered partially on the Sides of
the bank

The river to day is about ¼ of a mile in width, this evening
the countrey on the Lard. Side rises to the hight of that on the
Starboard Side, and is wavering we made 42 miles to day;
the current much more uniform than yesterday or the day
before. Killed 2 Speckle guls severl ducks of a delicious
flavour.

Map from Clark Field-book, showing position of Indian lodges, and
places of Encampment for October 20, and the
return journey, April 24, 1806.