University of Virginia Library

Chapter XIX

DESCENDING THE COLUMBIA TO THE RAPIDS

XIX. Clark's Journal, October 21—November 1, 1805

[Clark, first draft:]

October 21st. 1805 Monday[1]

AVERRY cold morning we set out early wind from
the SW. we could not cook brackfast before we
embarked as usial for the want of wood or something
to burn.

           

South	3	miles to a Lard Bend
S 55°. W.	17	miles to a Lard Bend below a bad rapid high ruged rocks Passed a small Island at 2 ½ miles one at 4 miles, in the middle of the river, at 2 more swift water an Indn camp of 8 Lodges on the Std. Side opsd. the Lower point where we Brackfast, and bought some fine fish & Pounded ro[o]tes. people well disposed passed a rapid at 10 miles. Rocks out in the water passed a Stard. point & a Lard. point at 15 passed 5 Lodges of Indians, & 2 Lodges some distance above on Std
N. 45°. W.	4	miles to a stard. bend passd. the lower pt. of the Isd. at 1 mile and 2 Lodges of fishers below on the Stard Side, the rocks on the Lard. appear as if sliped from the clifts under which they are passed emence rocks in different parts of the river which were large and too noumerous to notice. Fowl of all kinds more plentiful than above. passed a verry bad rapid at 2 miles, this rapid is crouded with Islands of bad rocks dificult & crooked passage 2 Lodges of Indians below on Std. Side. I saw some fiew small Pine on the tops of the high hills and bushes in the hollers
S. 60°. W.	5	miles to the Stard. Bend, passed maney ruged black rocks in different parts of the river, and a bad rapid at 2 miles & river narrow. Several canoes loaded with Indians (Pierce Noses) came to see us. at the expiration of this course a river falls in on the Lard. 40 yds. wide Islands of rocks in every direction in the river & rapids
S. 52°. W.	13	miles to upr point of a rocky Island 80 feet high a rapid above passed the little river rapid thro narrow channels between the rocks 4 Lodges of Indians on the Stard. side opposit a round toped mountain imediately in front and is the one we have been going towards & which bore S.W. from the 2d. course below the Forks passed the lower point of an Island on the Stard at 2 miles landed at 5 Lodges of Pierced noses Indians at 4 miles where we encamped and purchased a little wood to boil our Dogs & fish, Those Indians are the relations of [those at] the falls below, fortunately for us the night was worm fine water for 7 miles passed a rapid of rocks nearly across above which at 6 miles passed 6 Lodges. at 9 miles passed a bad rapid, & Lodges of Indians on Std. Side 20 piles of fish on an Island drying, several Indians in canoes fishing in canoes & gigs &c.
	42

Collins made some excellent beer of the Pasheco quarmash
bread of roots which was verry good. obliged to purchase
wood at a high rate.

October 21st.. Monday 1805

A verry cool morning wind from the S. W. we set out
verry early and proceeded on, last night we could not collect
more dry willows the only fuel, than was barely Suffi[ci]ent to
cook Supper, and not a sufficency to cook brackfast this morning,
passd. a Small Island at 5 ½ miles a large one 8 miles in
the middle of the river, some rapid water at the head and Eight
Lodges of nativs opposit its Lower point on the Stard. Side,
we came too at those lodges, bought some wood and brackfast,
Those people recived us with great kindness, and examined us

Map from Clark Field-book, showing Course and Camping place,
October 21, 1805.

with much attention, their employments customs, Dress and
appearance Similar to those above, Speak the Same language,
here we Saw two scarlet and a blue cloth blankets, also a Salors
Jacket the Dress of the men of this tribe only a Short robe of
Deer or Goat Skins, and that of the women is a short piece of
Dressed Skin which fall from the neck so as to cover the front
of the body as low as the waste, a Short robe, which is of one
Deer or antilope Skin, and a flap around their waste and Drawn
tite between their legs as before described, their orniments are
but fiew, and worn as those above.

we got from those people a fiew pounded roos [roots] fish
and Acorns[2] of white oake, those Acorns they make use of as
food raw & roasted and inform us they precure them of the
natives who live near the falls below which place they all discribe
by the term Timm[3] at 2 miles lower passed a rapid large
rocks stringing into the river of large Size, opposit to this rapid
on the Stard. Shore is Situated two Lodges of the Nativs drying
fish here we halted a fiew minits to examine the rapid before
we entered it which was our Constant Custom, and at all that
was verry dangerous put out all who Could not Swim to walk
around, after passing this rapid we proceeded on passed anoother
rapid at 5. miles lower down, above this rapid on the
Stard. Side five Lodges of Indians fishing &c above this rapid
maney large rocks on each Side at Some distance from Shore,
[at] one mile passed an Island close to the Stard. Side, below
which is two Lodges of nativs, a little below is a bad rapid
which is bad crouded with hugh [huge] rocks scattered in
every Direction which renders the pasage verry Difficult a
little above this rapid on the Lard. Side emence piles of rocks
appears as if Sliped from the clifts under which they lay,
passed great number of rocks in every direction scattered in
the river. 5 Lodges a little below on the Stard. Side, and one
lodge on an Island near the Stard. Shore opposit to which is

a verry bad rapid, thro which we found much dificuelty in
passing, the river is crowded with rocks in every direction,
after Passing this dificult rapid to the mouth of a Small river
on the Larboard Side 40 yards wide descharges but little water
at this time, and appears to take its Sourse in the open plains
to the S. E.[4] from this place I proceved some fiew Small
pines on the tops of the high hills and bushes in the hollars.
imediately above & below this little river comences a rapid
which is crouded with large rocks in every direction, the pasage
both crooked and dificuelt, we halted at a Lodge to examine
those noumerous Islands of rock which apd. to extend
maney miles below, great numbs. of Indians came in canoes
to View us at this place, after passing this rapid which we
accomplished without loss; winding through between the
hugh rocks for about 2 miles. (from this rapid the Conical
mountain is S.W. which the Indians inform me is not far to
the left of the great falls; this I call the Timm or falls mountain
it is high and the top is covered with snow) imediately
below the last rapids there is four Lodges of Indians on the
Stard. Side, proceeded on about two miles lower and landed
and encamped near five Lodges of nativs, drying fish those
are the relations of those at the great falls, they are pore and
have but little wood which they bring up the river from the
falls as they Say, we purchased a little wood to cook our
Dog meat and fish; those people did not receive us at first
with the same cordiality of those above, they appeare to be
the Same nation Speak the Same language with a little curruption
of maney words Dress and fish in the same way, all
of whome have pierced noses and the men when Dressed ware
a long taper'd piece of Shell or beed put through the nose.[5]
this part of the river is furnished with fine Springs which either
rise high up the Sides of the hills or on the bottom near the
river and run into the river. the hills are high and rugid a
fiew scattering trees to be Seen on them either Small pine or
Scrubey white oke.

The probable reason of the Indians residing on the Stard. Side
of this as well as the waters of Lewis's River is their fear of the
Snake Indians who reside, as they nativs say on a great river to
the South, and are at war with those tribes, one of the Old
Chiefs who accompanies us pointed out a place on the Lard. Side
where they had a great battle, not maney years ago, in which
maney were killed on both Sides, One of our party J. Collins
presented us with Some verry good beer made of the Pa-shi-co-quar-mash
bread, which bread is the remains of what was laid in
as a part of our Stores of Provisions, at the first flat heads or
Cho-pun-nish Nation at the head of the Kosskoske river which
by being frequently wet molded & sowered &c. we made 33
miles to day.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 22nd. Tuesday 1805

a fine morning calm we set out at 9 oClock and on the
Course S. 52°. W. 10 miles passed lodges & Indians and rapids
as mentioned in the course of yesterday, from the expiration of

       

S. 30° W.	3	miles to the mouth of a large river in the Lard. bend 200 yds. wide great rapids in it a ¼ up it long and impracticable of assent Passed a point of rock Island at 2 miles on the Stard. 3 Islands in the mouth of this river no bottoms a little up
West	4	miles to a bend on Stard. side passed the Island of rocks at 2 miles at Lower point 8 large Lodges, on the Stard. Side 10 Lodges, below at the end of the course 6 more Lodges passed a Island on the Std Side
S. W.	2	miles to a rocky Lard. bend from the mouth of the river at the fall or commencement of the Pitch where we made a portage of 457 yards & down a steep
	19

Took our Baggage & formed a camp below the rapids in a
cove on the Stard. Side the distance 1200 yards haveing passed
at the upper end of the portage 17 Lodges of Indians below
the rapids & above camp 5 large Lodges of Indians, great
numbers of baskets of Pounded fish on the rocks Islands &
near their Lodges those are needy pounded & put in verry
new baskets of about 90 or 100 pounds w[e]ight. hire Indians
to take our heavy articles across the portage purchased a Dog
for supper Great numbers of Indians view us, we with much
dificuelty purchased as much wood as cooked our dog this
evening, our men all in helth. The Indians have their grave
yard on an Island in the rapids. The Great Chief of those
Indians is out hunting. no Indians reside on the Lard Side
for fear of the Snake Indians with whome they are at war and
who reside on the large fork on the Lard. a little above

October 22d. Tuesday 1805

A fine morning calm and fare we set out at 9 oClock passed
a verry bad rapid at the head of an Island close under the Stard.
side above this rapid on the Stard side is six Lodges of nativs
Drying fish, at 9 mls. passed a bad rapid at the head of a large
Island of high & uneaven [rocks], jutting over the water, a
Small Island in a Stard. Bend opposit the upper point, on
which I counted 20 parcels of dryed and pounded fish; on the
main Stard. Shore opposit to this Island five Lodges of Indians
are Situated, Several Indians in canoes killing fish with gigs
&c. opposit the center of this Island of rocks which is about
4 miles long we discovered the enterence of a large river on the
Lard. Side which appeared to come from the S. E. we landed
at some distance above the mouth of this river and Capt. Lewis
and my Self set out to view this river above its mouth, as our
rout was intersepted by a deep narrow Chanel which runs
out of this river into the Columbia a little below the place we
landed, leaveing a high dry rich Island of about 400 yards
wide and 800 yards long here we Seperated, I proceeded on
to the river and Struck it at the foot of a verry Considerable
rapid, here I beheld an emence body of water compressd in

a narrow chanel of about 200 yds in width, fomeing over rocks
maney of which presented their tops above the water, when
at this place Capt. Lewis joined me haveing delayed on the wày
to examine a root of which the nativs had been digging great
quantities in the bottoms of this River. at about two miles
above this river appears to be confined between two high hils
below which it [is] divided by numbers of large rocks, and
Small Islands covered with a low groth of timber, and has a
rapid as far as the narrows, three Small Islands in the mouth
of this River, this River haveing no Indian name that we
could find out, except "the River on which the Snake Indians
live",[6] we think it best to leave the nameing of it untill our
return.

we proceeded on pass[ed] the mouth of this river at which
place it appears to discharge ¼ as much water as runs down
the Columbia, at two miles below this River passed Eight
Lodges on the Lower point of the Rock Island aforesaid at
those Lodges we saw large logs of wood which must have been
rafted down the To wor-ne hi ooks River, below this Island on
the main Stard. Shore is 16 Lodges of nativs, here we
landed a fiew minits to Smoke, the lower point of one Island
opposit which heads in the mouth of Towornehiooks River which
I did not observe untill after passing these lodges about ½ a
mile lower passed 6 more Lodges on the Same Side and 6
miles below the upper mouth of Towornehiooks River the comencement
of the pitch of the great falls,[7] opposit on the
Stard. Side is 17 Lodges of the nativs we landed and walked
down accompanied by an old man to view the falls, and the
best rout for to make a portage which we Soon discovered was
much nearest on the Stard. Side, and the distance 1200 yards
one third of the way on a rock, about 200 yards over a loose
Sand collected in a hollar blown by the winds from the bottoms
below which was disagreeable to pass, as it was steep and loose.
at the lower part of those rapids we arrived at 5 Large Lod[g]es
of nativs drying and prepareing fish for market, they gave

us Philburts,[8] and berries to eate. we returned droped down
to the head of the rapids and took every article except the
Canoes across the portag[e] where I had formed a camp on [an]
ellegable Situation for the protection of our Stores from thieft,
which we were more fearfull of, than their arrows, we despatched
two men to examine the river on the opposit Side,
and [they] reported that the canoes could be taken down a
narrow Chanel on the opposit Side after a Short portage at
the head of the falls, at which place the Indians take over their
Canoes. Indians assisted us over the portage with our heavy
articles on their horses,[9] the waters is divided into Several narrow
chanels which pass through a hard black rock forming
Islands of rocks at this Stage of the water, on those Islands
of rocks as well as at and about their Lodges I observe great
numbers of Stacks of pounded Salmon neetly preserved in the
following manner, i. e. after [being] suffi[c]ently Dried it is
pounded between two Stones fine, and put into a speces of
basket neetly made of grass and rushes better than two feet
long and one foot Diamiter, which basket is lined with the Skin
of Salmon Stretched and dried for the purpose, in this it is
pressed down as hard as is possible, when full they Secure the
open part with the fish Skins across which they fasten th[r]o. the
loops of the basket that part very securely, and then on a Dry
Situation they Set those baskets the corded part up, their
common custom is to Set 7 as close as they can Stand and 5
on the top of them, and secure them with mats which is raped
around them and made fast with cords and covered also with
mats, those 12 baskets of from 90 to 100lbs. each form a Stack,
thus preserved those fish may be kept Sound and sweet Several
years, as those people inform me, Great quantities as they inform
us are sold to the whites people who visit the mouth of
this river as well as to the nativs below.[10]

on one of those Island[s] I saw Several tooms but did not
visit them The principal Chiefs of the bands resideing about
this Place is out hunting in the mountains to the S. W. no
Indians reside on the S. W. side of this river for fear (as we
were informed) of the Snake Indians, who are at war with the
tribes on this river. they represent the Snake Indians as
being verry noumerous, and resideing in a great number of
villages on Towornehiooks River which falls in 6 miles above
on the Lard. Side and it reaches a great ways and is large a
little abov its mouth at which part it is not intersepted with
rapids, they inform that one considerable rapid & maney
Small ones in that river, and that the Snake live on Salmon,
and they go to war to their first villages in 12 days, the
Course they pointed is S. E. or to the S of S. E. we are
visited by great numbers of Indians to Day to view us, we
purchased a Dog for Supper, some fish and with dificuelty
precured as much wood as cooked Supper, which we also purchased
we made 19 miles to day.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 23rd. Wednesday 1805

Took the canoes over the Portage on the Lard. Side with
much dificulty, description on another Paper one canoe got
loose & cought by the Indians which we were obliged to pay
our old Chiefs over herd the Indians from below say they
would try to kill us & informed us of it, we have all the
arms examined and put in order, all the Indians leave us early.
Great numbers of flees on the Lard Side. Shot a Sea Orter
[otter] which I did not get, Great Numbers about those
rapids we purchased 8 dogs, Small & fat for our party to
eate, the Indians not verry fond of selling their good fish,
compells us to make use of dogs for food. Exchanged our
small canoe for a large & verry new one built for riding the
waves obsd Merdn Altd 66° 27′ 30″. Latd. prodsd. 45° 42′ 57″3/10
North.

October 23d. Wednesday 1805

a fine morning, I with the greater part of the men crossed
in the canoes to opposit side above the falls and hauled them
across the portage of 457 yards which is on the Lard. Side and
certainly the best side to pass the canoes, I then decended
through a narrow chanel of about 150 yards wide forming a
kind of half circle in it[s] course of a mile to a pitch of 8 feet
in which the chanel is divided by 2 large rocks, at this place
we were obliged to let the Canoes down by strong ropes of
Elk Skin which we had for the purpose, one Canoe in passing
this place got loose by the cords breaking, and was cought by
the Indians below. I accomplished this necessary business
and landed Safe with all the canoes at our Camp below the
falls by 3 oClock P. M. nearly covered with flees which were
so thick amongst the Straw and fish Skins at the upper part
of the portage at which place the nativs had been Camped
not long since; that every man of the party was obliged to
Strip naked dureing the time of takeing over the canoes, that
they might have an oppertunity of brushing the flees of[f]
their legs and bodies. Great numbers of Sea Otters in the
river below the falls, I shot one in the narrow chanel to day
which I could not get. Great numbers of Indians visit us
both from above and below. one of the old Chiefs who had
accompanied us from the head of the river, informed us that
he herd the Indians Say that the nation below intended to kill
us. we examined all the arms &c. complete the amunition to
100 rounds. The nativs leave us earlyer this evening than
usial, which gives a Shadow of confermation to the information
of our old Chief, as we are at all times & places on our
guard, are under no greater apprehention than is common.

we purchased 8 Small fat dogs for the party to eate; the
nativs not being fond of Selling their good fish, compells us
to make use of Dog meat for food, the flesh of which the
most of the party have become fond of from the habits of
useing it for Some time past. The altitude of this day 66°. 27′.
30″ gave for Latd. 45°. 42′. 57. 3/10 N.

I observed on the beach near the Indian Lodges two butifull
canoes of different Shape & Size to what we had Seen

above wide in the midd[l]e and tapering to each end, on the
bow curious figures were cut in the wood &c. Capt. Lewis
went up to the Lodges to See those Canoes and exchanged
our Smallest canoe for one of them by giveing a Hatchet &
few trinkets to the owner who informed that he purchased it
of a white man below for a horse, these canoes are neeter
made than any I have ever Seen and calculated to ride the
waves, and carry emence burthens, they are dug thin and
are suported by cross pieces of about 1 inch diamieter tied
with Strong bark thro' holes in the Sides. our two old chiefs
appeared verry uneasy this evening.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 24th. Thursday 1805

a fine morning the Indians approached us with caution,
our 2 old Chiefs deturmine to return home, saying they were
at war with Indians below and they would kill them we purswaded
them to stay 2 nights longer with us, with a view to
make a peace with those Indians below as well as to have them
with us dureing our Delay with this tribe. Capt Lewis went
to view the falls I set out with the party at 9 oClock a m at
2 ½ miles passed a rock which makes from the Stard Side
(4 Lodges above 1 below) and confined the river in a narrow
channel of about 45 yards this continued for about ¼ of
a mile & widened to about 200 yards, in those narrows the
water was agitated in a most shocking manner boils swells &
whorlpools, we passed with great risque It being impossible
to make a portage of the canoes, about 2 miles lower passed
a verry Bad place between 2 rocks one large & in the middle
of the river here our canoes took in some water I put all
the men who could not swim on shore, & sent a fiew articles
such as guns & papers, and landed at a Village of 21 houses
on the Stard Side in a Deep bason where the river appeared to
be blocked up with emence rocks. I walked down and examined
the passage found it narrow, and one verry bad place
a little below the houses I pursued this channel which is
from 50 to 100 yards wide and swels and boils with a most
tremendeous manner, prosued this channel 5 ms. & returned

found Capt Lewis & a Chief from below with maney of his
men on a visit to us, one of our Party Pete Crusat played on
the violin which pleased the savage, the men danced, Great
numbers of Sea Orter Pole Cats about those fishings the
houses of those Indians are 20 feet square and sunk 8 feet
under ground & covered with bark with a small door round at
top rose about 18 Inches above ground, to keep out the snow
I saw 107 parcels of fish stacked, and great quantites in
the houses.

October 24th.. Thursday 1805

The morning fare after a beautifull night, the nativs approached
us this morning with great caution. our two old
chiefs expressed a desire to return to their band from this
place, Saying "that they could be of no further Service to us,
as their nation extended no further down the river than those
falls, (they could no longer understand the language of those below
the falls, till then not much difference in the vocabs.) and as the
nation below had expressed hostile intentions against us, would
certainly kill them; perticularly as they had been at war with each
other;" we requested them to Stay with us two nights longer,
and we would See the nation below and make a peace between
them, they replied they "were anxious to return and See our
horses" we insisted on their staying with us two nights longer
to which they agreed; our views were to detain those Chiefs
with us, untill we should pass the next falls, which we were told
were very bad, and at no great distance below, that they might
inform us of any designs of the nativs, and if possible to bring
about a peace between them and the tribes below.

The first pitch of this falls is 20 feet perpendecular, then
passing thro' a narrow chanel for 1 mile to a rapid of about
8 feet fall below which the water has no perceptable fall but
verry rapid See Sketch N°. 1. It may be proper here to remark
that from Some obstruction below, the cause of which we have
not yet learned, the water in high fluds (which are in the Spring)
rise below these falls nearly to a leavel with the water above the
falls; the marks of which can be plainly tracd. around the

falls[11] : at that Stage of the water the Salmon must pass up
which abounds in such great numbers above. below those falls
we[re] Salmon trout, and great numbers of the heads of a
Species of trout Smaller than the Salmon, those fish they
catch out of the Salmon Season, and are at this time in the act
of burrying those which they had drid for winter food. the
mode of bur[y]ing those fish is in holes of various Sizes, lined
with Straw on which they lay fish Skins in which they inclose
the fish which is laid verry close, and then covered with earth
of about 12 or 15 inches thick. Capt. Lewis and three men
crossed the river and on the opposit Side to view the falls which
he had not yet taken a full view of. At 9 oClock a. m. I Set
out with the party and proceeded on down a rapid Stream of
about 400 yards wide at 2-½ miles the river widened into
a large bason to the Stard. Side on which there is five Lodges of
Indians. here a tremendious black rock Presented itself high
and Steep appearing to choke up the river; nor could I See
where the water passed further than the current was drawn with
great velocity to the Lard. Side of this rock at which place
I heard a great roreing. I landed at the Lodges and the
natives went with me to the top of this rock which makes from
the Stard. Side, from the top of which I could See the dificuelties
we had to pass for Several miles below; at this place the water
of this great river is compressed into a chanel between two rocks
not exceeding forty five yards wide and continues for a ¼ of
a mile when it again widens to 200 yards and continues this
width for about 2 miles when it is again intersepted by rocks.
This obstruction in the river accounts for the water in high
floods riseing to Such a hite at the last falls. The whole of the
Current of this great river must at all Stages pass thro' this
narrow chanel of 45 yards wide.[12] as the portage of our canoes
over this high rock would be impossible with our Strength, and
the only danger in passing thro those narrows was the whorls
and swills [swells] arriseing from the Compression of the water,
and which I thought (as also our principal watermen Peter
Crusat) by good Stearing we could pass down Safe, accordingly
I deturmined to pass through this place notwithstanding
the horrid appearance of this agitated gut swelling, boiling &
whorling in every direction, (which from the top of the rock
did not appear as bad as when I was in it; however we passed
Safe to the astonishment of all the Inds. of the last Lodges who
viewed us from the top of the rock. passed one Lodge below
this rock, and halted on the Stard. Side to view a very bad place,
the current divided by 2 Islands of rocks the lower of them
large and in the midal of the river, this place being verry bad
I sent by land all the men who could not Swim and such articles
as was most valuable to us such as papers Guns & amunition,
and proceeded down with the canoes two at a time to a
village of 20 wood houses in a Deep bend to the Stard. Side below
which [was] a rugid black rock about 20 feet hiter [higher]
than the Common high fluds of the river with Several dry
chanels which appeared to Choke the river up quite across;
this I took to be the 2d. falls or the place the nativs above call
timm, The nativs of this village re[ce]ived me verry kindly,
one of whome envited me into his house, which I found
to be large and comodious, and the first wooden houses in
which Indians have lived Since we left those in the vicinty of
the Illinois, they are scattered permiscuisly on a elivated Situation
near a mound of about 30 feet above the Common leavel,
which mound has Some remains of houses and has every
appearance of being artificial. those houses are about the
Same Shape Sise and form 20 feet Square, [wide and 30 feet
long] with one Dore raised 18 Inches above ground, they
[the doors—Ed.] are 29-½ inches high & 14 wide, forming
in a half circle above, [ILLUSTRATION] those houses were Sunk into the
earth six feet, the roofs of them was Supported by [a ridge
pole resting on] three Strong pieces of Split timber on which,
[thro' one of which the dare was cut] that and the walls, the top
of which was just above ground Supported a certain number of
Spars which are Covered with the Bark of the white Ceadar, or
Arber Vitea; and the whole attached and Secured by the fibers
of the Cedar. the eaves at or near the earth, the gable ends
and Side Walls are Secured with split boards which is Seported
on iner Side with Strong pieces of timber under the eves &c.
to keep those pieces errect & the earth from without pressing
in the boards, Suported by Strong posts at the corners to
which those poles were attached to give aditional Strength,
small openings were left in the roof above the ground, for the
purpose, as I conjectured, of deschargeing their arrows at a besiegeing
enimey; Light is admited thro' an opening at top which
also Serves for the Smoke to pass through,[13] one half of those
houses is apropriated for the storeing away Dried & pounded
fish which is the principal food, the other part next the dore is
the part occupied by the nativs who have beds raised on either
side, with a fire place in the center of this Space each house
appeared to be occupied by about three families; that part
which is apropriated for fish was crouded with that article, and
a fiew baskets of burries. I dispatched a Sufficent number of
the good Swimers back for the 2 canoes above the last rapid,
and with 2 men walked down three miles to examine the river
Over a bed of rocks, which the water at verry high fluds passes
over, on those rocks I Saw Several large scaffols on which the
Indians dry fish, as this is out of Season the poles on which
they dry those fish are tied up verry Securely in large bundles
and put upon the scaffolds, I counted 107 stacks of dried
pounded fish in different places on those rocks which must
have contained 10.000lb of neet fish, The evening being late
I could not examine the river to my Satisfaction, the chanel
is narrow and compressed for about 2 miles, when it widens
into a deep bason to the Stard Side, & again contracts into a narrow
chanel divided by a rock. I returned through a rockey
open countrey infested with pole-cats to the village where I met
with Capt. Lewis the two old Chiefs who accompanied us & the
party & canoes who had all arrived Safe; the Canoes haveing
taken in some water at the last rapids. here we formed a camp
near the village, The principal chief from the nation below
with Several of his men visited us, and afforded a favourable
oppertunity of bringing about a Piece and good understanding
between this chief and his people and the two chiefs who accompanied
us which we have the Satisfaction to say we have accomplished,
as we have every reason to believe, and that those two
bands or nations are and will be on the most friendly terms
with each other, gave this great chief a Medal and some other
articles, of which he was much pleased. Peter Crusat played
on the violin and the men danced which delighted the nativs,
who Shew every civility towards us. we Smoked with those
people untill late at night, when every one retired to rest.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 25th. Friday 1805

A cold morning we deturmined to attempt the chanel after
brackfast I took down all the party below the bad places with
a load & one canoe passed well, a 2d. passed well I had men
on the shore with ropes to throw in in case any accidence happened
at the whirl &c The Inds on the rocks viewing us
the 3rd. canoe nearly filled with water we got her safe to shore.
the last canoe came over well which to me was truly gratifying
set out and had not passed 2 miles before 3 canoes run against
a rock in the river with great force no damage met with a
2d. Chief of the nation from hunting, we smoked with him
and his party and gave a medal of the small size & set out
passed great numbers of rocks, good water and came to at
a high point of rocks below the mouth of a creek which falls
in on the Lard Side and head up towards the high snow mountain
to the S W. this creek is 20 yards wide and has some
beaver signs at its mouth river about ½ a mile wide and
crouded with sea otters, & Drum [fish] was seen this evening,
we took possession of a high Point of rocks to defend our
selves in case the threts of those Indians below should be put
in execution against us. Sent out some hunters to look if any
signs of game, one man killed a small deer & several others
seen I killed a goose, and suped hartily on venison & goose
Camped on the rock. guard under the hill

A sketch of the Long and Short Narrows of the Columbia

Courses from the upper rapids

     

West	2	miles passing a Lard. point of Sand and a Stard. point & 3 Lodges a deep bason to the Stard. to a pt of rocks, above a chanel
S. 75°. W.	2	miles to a rock Island in the middle of the river at a bad rapid & who [r]ls, passed thro a narrow bad chanel 45 yds wide for ¼ of a mile. a Lodge below on Stard. Side. halted to lookout
S. 50°. W.	2	miles to a rock at the head of a narrow chanel, a deep bason to the Stard. on which a village of 21 Lodges passed a large rock Island in the middle of the river. The channel nearest the Lard. Side

Octr. 25

       

S. 34°. W.	3	miles thro a narrow swift bad chanel from 50 to 100 yards wide, of swels whorls & bad places a verry bad place at 1 mile, a rock in the middle at 2 miles to a rock, above a Deep bason to the Stard. Side above the rock
S. 20°. W.	2	miles to a high rock passed thro a narrow channel on the Std. Side of a rock in the middle of the chanel
N. 60°. W	1	mile to a bend, passed a bason to the Lard. Side, and large ruged rocks on both sides
S. 60°. W.	4	miles to large Creek [in] a Lard. bend under a timbered bottom & the first timber we have seen near the river for a long distance, Pine & white Oake

October 25th. Friday 1805

A cool morning Capt. Lewis and my Self walked down to
See the place the Indians pointed out as the worst place in
passing through the gut, which we found difficuelt of passing
without great danger, but as the portage was impracti[c]able
with our large canoes, we concluded to Make a portage of our
most valuable articles and run the canoes thro.[14] accordingly
on our return divided the party Some to take over the Canoes,
and others to take our Stores across a portage of a mile to a
place on the chanel below this bad whorl & Suck, with Some

others I had fixed on the Chanel with roapes to throw out to
any who Should unfortunately meet with difficuelty in passing
through; great number of Indians viewing us from the high
rocks under which we had to pass, the 3 fir[s]t canoes passed
thro very well, the 4th. nearly filled with water, the last passed
through by takeing in a little water, thus Safely below what
I conceved to be the worst part of this chanel felt my self
extreamly gratified and pleased. We loaded the Canoes & set
out, and had not proceeded more than 2 mile[s] before the
unfortunate Canoe which filled crossing the bad place above,
run against a rock and was in great danger of being lost; this
Chanel is through a hard rough black rock, from 50 to 100
yards wide, swelling and boiling in a most tremendious maner
Several places on which the Indians inform me they take the
Salmon as fast as they wish; we passed through a deep bason
to the Stard. Side of 1 mile below which the River narrows and
[is] divided by a rock the curent we found quit[e] gentle,
here we met with our two old chiefs who had been to a village
below to smoke a friendly pipe and at this place they met the
Chief & party from the village above on his return from hunting
all of whome were then crossing over their horses, we
landed to Smoke a pipe with this Chief whome we found to be
a bold pleasing looking man of about 50 years of age dressd. in
a war jacket a cap Legins & mockesons. he gave us some
meat of which he had but little and informed us he in his rout
met with a war party of Snake Indians from the great river of
the S. E. which falls in a few miles above and had a fight. we
gave this Chief a Medal, &c. [had] a parting Smoke with our
two faithful friends the chiefs who accompanied us from the
head of the river, (who had purchased a horse each with 2
rob[e]s and intended to return on horseback) we proceeded
on down the water fine, rocks in every derection for a fiew
miles when the river widens and becoms a butifull jentle Stream
of about half a mile wide, Great numbers of the Sea orter
[or Seals] about those narrows and both below and above. we
came too, under a high point of rocks on the Lard. Side below
a creek of 20 yards wide and much water, as it was necessary
to make Some Selestial observations we formed our camp on
the top of a high point of rocks, which forms a kind of fortification
in the Point between the river & creek, with a boat
guard,[15] this Situation we conceived well Calculated for Defence,
and conveniant to hunt under the foots of the mountain
to the West & S. W. where timber of different kinds grows,
and appears to be handsom coverts for the Deer, in oke woods,
Sent out hunters to examine for game. G. D. Killed a Small
Deer & other[s] Saw much sign, I killed a goose in the creek
which was verry fat. one of the guard saw a Drum fish to day
he conceved, our Situation will calculated to defend our selves
from any designs of the natives, Should they be enclined to
attack us.

This little creek heads in the range of mountains which runs
S. S. W. & N. W. for a long distance on which is scattering
pine white oake &c. The Pinical of the round toped mountain
which we Saw a Short distance below the forks of this
river is S. 43°. W. of us and abt 37 miles, it is at this time
toped with Snow we called this the falls mountain or Timm
mountain. [this the Mount Hood or vancauver] The face of
the Countrey on both Side of the river above and about the
falls, is Steep ruged and rockey open and contain[s] but a Small
preportion of [h]erbage, no. timber a fiew bushes excepted.
The nativs at the upper falls raft their timber down Towarnehooks
River & those at the narrows take theirs up the river to
the lower part of the narrows from this Creek, and carry it over
land 3 miles to their houses[16] &c. at the mouth of this creek
Saw Some beaver Sign, and a Small wolf in a Snare set in the
willows The Snars of which I saw Several made for to catch
wolves, are made as follows vz. a long pole which will Spring
is made fast with bark to a willow, on the top of this pole a
string (Described elsewhere)

[Clark, first draft:]

October 26th. 1805 Saturday

a fine morning sent out six men to hunt deer & collect
rozin to Pitch our canoes, had all our articles put out to dry.
Canoes drawed out and repaired, the injoiries receved in drawing
them over the rocks, every article wet in the canoe which
nearly sunk yesterday

Took the Azmuth of the Sun & time this morning

         

	Azmuth			Time			distance
			h	m	s
S.	64°.	E	8	41	6	41°.	1′	0″
S.	63°.	E	8	45	32	42	6	30
S.	62°.	E	8	51	8	43	28	15

Took equal altitudes with Sextant

       

	H.	M	s.		h	m	s
A M	8	54	22	P M	2	9	44
	8	56	41		"	12	5
	8	59	1

Altitude produced from this observation 44° –14′ –15″

a number of Indians came to the opposit side and shew great anxiety
to come over. they delayed untill late

Took time and distance of Sun and moon Sun West P. M.

                     

h	m	s
2	21	12	49°	51′	15″
"	25	45	49	51	00
"	29	4	49	52	00
"	31	43	49	52	30
"	33	9	49	52	45
"	36	2	49	53	30
"	37	49	49	54	30
"	39	5	49	55	00
"	40	23	49	55	30
"	41	36	49	56	00

Took time and distance of Moons Western limb & Fulenhalt
[Fomalhaut.] Star East

         

		Time			distance
	h	m	s
P M	6	34	0	67°	36′	15″
	"	36	4	67	35	15
	"	39	2	67	34	30

In the evening 2 chief[s] and 15 men came over in a single
canoe, those chiefs proved to be the 2 great chiefs of the
tribes above, one gave me a Dressed Elk Skin, and gave us
some deer meet, and 2 cakes of white bread made of white
roots, we gave to each chief a meadel of the small size a red
silk handkerchief a knife to the 1st. a arm ban[d] & a pice of
Paint & a comb to his son a Pice of riben tied to a tin gorget
and 2 hams of Venison They deturmined to stay with us all
night, we had a fire made for them & one man played on the
violin which pleased them much my servent danced. our
hunters killed five Deer, 4 verry large gray squirrels, a goose
& Pheasent, one man giged a Salmon trout which we had fried
In a little Bears oil which a Chief gave us yesterday and I think
the finest fish I ever tasted, saw great numbers of white
crains flying in Different directions verry high. The river has
rose nearly 8 Inches to day and has every appearance of a tide,
from what cause I can't say. our hunters saw Eik & bear
signs to day In the white oake woods the countrey to the
Lard. is broken Countrey thinly timbered with pine and white
oake, a mountain which I must call Timm or falls mountain
rises verry high and bears to S.W. the course it has bore since
we first saw it, our men danced to night. dried all our wet
articles and repaired our canoes.

The flees my self and the men got on them in passing thro
the plains the Indians had lately lived in Lodges on the Lard.
Side at the falls, are very troublesom and with every exertion
the men can't get rid of them, particularly as they have no
clothes to change those which they wore. Those Indians are
at war with the Snake Indians on the river which falls in a few
miles above this and have lately had a battle with them, their
loss I cannot lern

October 26th. Saturday 1805.

A fine morning Sent Six men out to hunt Deer, and collect
rozin to pitch the canoes which has become verry leakey by
frequently hauling them over rocks &c. as well [as] Striking
rocks frequently in passing down. all our articles we have
exposed to the Sun to Dry; and the Canoes drawn out and

turned up. maney of our Stores entirely spoiled by being
repeetedly wet,[17]

A number of Indians came to the oposit side of the river in
the fore part of the day and Shew[ed] that they were anxious
to cross to us, we did not think proper to cross them in our
Canoes and did not Send for them. in the evening two
chiefs and 15 men came over in a Small Canoe, those two
chiefs proved to be the two Principal Chiefs of the tribes above
at the falls, and above, who was out hunting at the time we
passed their bands; one of those Chiefs made Capt. Lewis and
my self each a Small present of Deer meat, and small cakes of
white bread made of roots. we gave to each chief a Meadel
of the Small Size a red Silk handkerchief, arm band, Knife
& a piece of Paint, and acknowledged them as chiefs; as we
thought it necessary at this time to treat those people verry
friendly & ingratiate our Selves with them, to insure us a kind
& friendly reception on our return, we gave Small presents to
Several, and half a Deer to them to eate. we had also a fire
made for those people to sit around in the middle of our camp,
and Peter Crusat Played on the violin, which pleased those
nativs exceedingly. (Yorke danced for the Inds.) the two Chiefs
and several men deturmined to delay all night with us all the
others returned, leaving the horses for those who staied on the
opposit Side. our hunters returned in the evening Killed five
Deer, four verry large grey Squirels and a grouse. one of the
guard at the river guiged a Salmon Trout, which we had fried
in a little Bears oil which the Chief we passed below the narrows
gave us: this I thought one of the most delicious fish I have
ever tasted

Great numbers of white crain flying in different Directions
verry high. The river rose 8 inches to day from what cause
I cannot Say certainly, as the tides cannot effect the river
here as there is a falls below, I conjecture that the rise is owing
to the winds which has Set up the river for 24 hours past

our hunters inform that the country back is broken, stoney
and thinly timbered with pine and white Oake. They saw

Elk & Bear sign in the mountains. Dried all our wet articles
and repaired our canoes to day, and the Party amused themselves
at night danceing. The Flees which the party got on
them at the upper & great falls, are very troublesom and dificuelt
to get rid of, perticularly as the me[n] have not a Change
of Clothes to put on, they strip off their Clothes and kill the
flees, dureing which time they remain nakid.

The nations in the vicinity of this place is at War with the
Snake Indians who they Say are noumerous and live on the
river we passed above the falls on the Same Side on which we
have encamped, and, the nearest town is about four days march
they pointed nearly S. E. and informed that they had a battle
with those Inds. laterly, their loss I could not assertain.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 27th.. Sunday 1805

a verry windy night and morning wind from the West
and hard

Took time and distance of Suns and moons nearest Limbs.
Sun West

                       

		Time			distance
	h	m	s
P M	3	20	37	61°	0′	0″
	"	22	33	61	0	45
	"	23	23	61	1	15
	"	24	24	61	1	45
	"	25	25	61	2	15
	"	26	22	61	2	30
	"	27	25	61	2	30
	"	28	23	61	3	15
	"	29	9	61	3	30
	"	29	50	61	3	30

Send out hunters and they killed 4 deer I pheasent and a
squirel the 2 Chiefs and party continue with us, we treat
them well give them to eate & smoke, they were joined by
seven others, from below. who stayed about 3 hours and
returned down the river in a pet, soon after the Chiefs deturmined
to go home we had them put across the river the
wind verry high, we took a vocabelary of the Languages of

the 2 nations, the one liveing at the Falls call themselves
E-nee-shur The other resideing at the levels or narrows in a
a village on the Std. side call themselves E-chee-lute not withstanding
those people live only 6 miles apart, [they understand]
but fiew words of each others language the language of those
above having great similarity with those tribes of flat heads we
have passed. all have the clucking tone anexed which is prodominate
above, all flatten the heads of their female children
near the falls, and maney above follow the same custom The
language of the Che-luc-it-te-quar a fiew miles below is different
from both in a small degree. The wind increased in the
evening and blew verry hard from the same point W day
fair and cold. The creek at which we are Encamped is called
by the natives Que-nett Some words with Shabono about
his duty The pinical of Falls mountain bears S 43°. W. about
35 miles

October 27th.. Sunday 1805

Wind hard from the west all the last night and this morning.[18]

Some words with Shabono our interpreter about his duty.
Sent out Several hunters who brought in four Deer, one
Grouse and a Squirel. The two Chiefs & party was joined by
seven others from below in two canoes, we gave them to eate
& Smoke Several of those from below returned down the river
in a bad humer, haveing got into this pet by being prevented
doeing as they wished with our articles which was then exposed
to dry. we took a Vocabelary of the Languages of those two
chiefs which are verry different notwithstanding they are Situated
within six miles of each other, Those at the great falls call
themselves E-nee-shur and are understood on the river above:
Those at the Great Narrows call themselves E-che-lute and is
understood below,[19] maney words of those people are the Same,

and common to all the flat head Bands which we have passed
on the river, all have the clucking tone anexed which is prodomonate
above all the Bands flatten the heads of the female
children, and maney of the male children also.[20] Those two
Chief [s] leave us this evening and returned to their bands,
the wind verry high & from the west, day proved fair and
cool.

The natives call this creek near which we are encamped
Que-nett.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 28th Monday 1805

a windey morning loaded our canoes and set out at 9 oClock.
A M. 3 canoes came down from the village above & 2 from
that below. in one of those canoes a Indian wore his hair cued
[queued], and had on a round hat. Wind from West

Course Distance

     

N. 50°. W.	2	miles [to a] cove in a Lard. bend Clift of rocks on each side of 90 feet high, fiew pine
N. 10° W.	2	miles to an Indian village of the Cbee-luck-it-tee-quar nation of 8 houses in the form of those above, passed the mouth of a small creek
	4

Those Indians have a musket & sword, and several Brass
Tea kittles which they appear to be verry fond of We purchased
of those people five small dogs, and some Dried beries
& white bread of roots, the wind rose and we were obliged to
lie by about 1 mile below on the Lard. Side

North 1 mile to a rock Island on the Stard. Side. we had
not landed long be[fo]r an Indian canoe came from below with
3 Indians in it. those Indians make verry nice canoes of Pine.
Thin with aperns & carve on the head imitation of animals &
other heads; The Indians above sacrifice the property of the
Deceased towit horses, canoes, bolds [bowls] Basquets of which
they make great use to hold water boil their meet &c. &c. great

many Indians came down from the upper Village & sat with
us [and] smoked, rained all the evening & blew hard from
the West, encamped on the Lard Side opsd. an Rock in the
river Bad place

October 28th. Monday 1805

A cool windey morning we loaded our canoes and Set out
at 9 oClock, a. m. as we were about to set out 3 canoes from
above and 2 from below came to view us in one of those
canoes I observed an Indian with round hat Jacket & wore his
hair cued [he said he got them from Indians below the great rapid
who bought them from the whites] we proceeded on river inclosed
on each Side in high clifts of about 90 feet of loose
dark Coloured rocks at four miles we landed at a Village of
8 houses on the Stard. Side under some rugid rocks, Those
people call themselves Chil-luckit-te-quaw,[21] live in houses similar
to those described, Speake somewhat different language with
maney words the Same & understand those in their neighbourhood
Capt. Lewis took a vocabilary of this Language I entered
one of the houses in which I saw a British musket, a
cutlash and Several brass Tea kittles of which they appeared
verry fond Saw them boiling fish in baskets with Stones, I
also Saw [badly executed] figures of animals & men cut &
painted on boards in one Side of the house which they appeared
to prize, but for what purpose I will not venter to say,
here we purchased five Small Dogs, Some dried buries, & white
bread made of roots, the wind rose and we were obliged to
lie by all day at 1 mile below on the Lard. Side. we had not
been long on Shore before a Canoe came up with a man woman
& 2 children, who had a fiew roots to Sell, Soon after maney
others joined them from above, The wind which is the cause
of our delay, does not retard the motions of those people at all,
as their canoes are calculated to ride the highest waves, they
are built of white cedar or Pine verry light wide in the middle
and tapers at each end, with aperns, and heads of animals

carved on the bow, which is generally raised. Those people
make great use of Canoes, both for transpo[r]tation and fishing,
they also [make] use of bowls & baskets made of grass & [bark]
Splits to hold water and boil their fish & meat. maney of the
nativs of the last Village come down [to] Sit and Smoke with
us, wind blew hard accompanied with rain all the evening, our
Situation not a verry good one for an encampment, but such
as it is we are obliged to put up with, the harbor is a Safe one,
we encamped on the Sand, wet and disagreeable one Deer
killed this evening, and another wounded near our Camp.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 29th. Tuesday 1805.

A Cloudy morning wind still from the West not hard, we
set out at day light proceeded on about 5 miles and came too
at a Lodge of a chief which we made at the upper Village at
the falls about his house there is six others This chief gave
us to eate Sackacomme burries Hasel nuts fish Pounded, and
a kind of Bread made of roots. we gave to the women pices
of ribon, which they appeared pleased with. those houses are
large 25 feet sqr and contain about 8 men, say 30 inhabitants

Course

     

N. 55°. W.	4	miles to a Lard. point, pasd a run on Lard Side
West	8	miles to Rock Island near the middle of River, passed 7 Houses of Indians about 50 men at 1 mile on the Stard. Side. Brackfast Those people fish at the last narrows, & have but little pounded fish, some dried and berries
	12

Those people are friendly gave us to eate fish Beries, nuts
bread of roots & Dr[i]ed beries and we call this the friendly
Village We purchased 12 dogs of them & 4 Sacks of Pounded
fish, and some fiew Dried Berries, and proceeded on at 4
miles further we landed to smoke a pipe with the people of
a village of 11 houses we found those people also friendly
Their village is Situated imediately below the mouth of a River
of 60 yards water which falls in on the Stard Side and heads in
the mountains to the N. & N. E. the Indians inform us that

this river is long and full of falls no salmon pass up it. They
also inform that 10 nations live on this river by hunting and
on buries &c. The Countrey begins to be thinly timbered with
Pine & low white Oake verry rocky and hilley. We purchased
at this village 4 dogs. at the end of this Course is
3 rocks, in the river and a rock point from the Lard. the
middle rock is large and has a number of graves on it we call
it the Sepulchar Island. The last River we call Caterack River
from the number of falls which the Indians inform is on it
The Indians are afraid to hunt or be on the Lard Side of this
Columbia river for fear of the Snake Inds. who reside on a fork
of this river which falls in above the falls. a good situation for
winter quarters if game can be had is just below Sepulchar rock
on the Lard Side, high & pine and oake timber the rocks ruged
above, good hunting Countrey back, as it appears from the
river Indian village opsd of 2 Lodges river ½ mile wide at
least

12 miles brought forward

     

S. 60°. W.	5	miles to a point of rocks Island in a Lard bend, passed 2 rocks in the river. passed 2 Houses at i mile on the Stard Side and 2 at 4 miles on the Stard. Side Countrey on the Lard. Side has more timber than common and looks well for hunting high and ruged.
S. 80°. W.	6	miles to 4 Houses in a point of a timbered bottom on the Lard Side at a large creek or River 40 yds passed a bottom on the Stard. Side the distance in which there is 14 Indian houses. The falls mountain covered with snow is South
S. 70°. W.	6	miles to a high clift of rocks Std bend passed a large creek at 1 mile on the Stard. Side in which the Indians catch fish a large sand bar from the Lard. Side for 4 miles, at which place a small stream of water falls over a rock of 100 feet on the Lard Side passed 4 Indian Houses at 5 miles in a bottom on the Lard Side

The robes of those Indians are of wolf deer elk, wild cats,
some fox, & Deer I saw one of the mountain sheep, the wool
thick and long corse hair on the back, resembling bristles.
those animals live among the rocks in those mountains below,

Map from Clark Field-book, showing location of Indian tribes
on Columbia River.

orter is much valued by those people they cew their hair on
each side with it and ware it about the necks with the tail
in front

S. 56°. W. 6 miles to a point of timbered bottom on the Lard. Side,
passd. a Stard. point at 2 miles Here the mountains are
high on each side, the high points of those to the
Lard. has snow

Came too at 3 miles on this course at 3 Houses of flatheads
and Encamped on the Stard Side, a Pond lies back of those
people in which we saw great numbers of the small swan. we
Purchased of those people 3 Dogs they gave us High bush
cramburies, bread of roots [blank space in MS.] and roots, they
were pleased with musick of the violin.

October 29th. Tuesday 1805

A cloudy morning wind from the west but not hard, we Set
out at day light, and proceeded on about five miles came too
on the Stard. Side at a village of 7 houses built in the Same form
and materials of those above, here we found the Chief we had
Seen at the long narrows named [blank space in MS.] we entered
his lodge and he gave us to eate Pounded fish, bread
made of roots, Filbert nuts, & the berries of Sackecomme.
[Sac de Commis] we gave to each.woman of the lodge a brace
of Ribon of which they were much pleased. each of those
houses may be calculated to contain 8 men and 30 Soles, they
are hospitable and good humered Speak the Same language of
the inhabitants of the last village, we call this the friendly village.
I observed in the lodge of the chief sundery articles
which must have been precured from the white people, Such
[as] a Scarlet & blue cloth Sword Jacket & hat. I also observed
two wide Split boards w[i]th images on them cut and
painted in emitation of a man; I pointed to this image and
asked a man to what use he put them to, he Said Something
the only word I understood was "good," and then Steped to
the image and took out his Bow & quiver to Show me, and
Some other of his war emplemints, from behind it. The Chief

then directed his wife to hand him his medison bag which he
opened and Showed us 14 fingers [different fingers not little or
middle fingers] which he said was the fingers of his enemies
which he had taken in war, and pointed to S. E. from which
direction I concluded they were Snake Indians, this is the
first Instance I ever knew of the Indians takeing any other
trofea of their exploits off the dead bodies of their Enimies except
the Scalp. The chief painted those fingers with Several
other articles which was in his bag red and securely put them
back,[22] haveing first mad[e] a short harrang which I suppose was
bragging of what he had done in war. we purchased 12 Dogs
and 4 Sacks of fish, & some fiew ascid berries, after brackfast
we proceeded on, the mountains are high on each side, containing
scattering pine white Oake & under groth, hill Sides
Steep and rockey; at 4 miles lower we observed a small river
falling in with great rapidity on the Stard. Side below which is
a village of 11 houses, here we landed to Smoke a pipe with
the nativs and examine the mouth of the river, which I found
to be 60 yards wide rapid and deep, The inhabitants of the
village are friendly and chearfull; those people inform us as
also those at the last village that this little river is long and full
of falls, no Salmon pass up it, it runs from N. N. E., that ten
nations live on this river and its waters, on buries, and what
game they can kill with their Bow & arrows

we purchased 4 dogs and set out. (this village is the of the
Same nation of the one we last passed) and proceeded on. The
countrey on each side begin[s] to be thicker timbered with
Pine and low white oake; verry rockey and broken. passed
three large rocks in the river the middle rock is large long
and has Several Squar vaults on it, we call this rockey Island
the Sepulchar.[23] The last river we passed we shall call the Cataract
River[24] from the number of falls which the Indians say is
on it, passed 2 Lodges of Indians a short distance below the

sepulchor Island on the Stard. Side. river wide, at 4 mile
passed 2 houses on the Stard. Side, six miles lower passed
4 houses above the mouth of a Small river 40 yards wide on
the Lard. Side a thick timbered bottom above & back of those
houses, those are the first houses which we have seen on the
South Side of the Columbia River, (and the axess to those dificuelt)
for fear of the approach of their common enemies the
Snake Indians, passed 14 houses on the Std. Side scattered
on the bank, from the mouth of this little river which we
shall Call Labeasche River,[25] the falls mountain [Mount Hood]
is South and the top is covered with Snow. one mile below
pass the mouth of a large rapid Stream on the Stard. Side,
opposit to a large Sand bar, in this creek the Indians above
take their fish, here we saw Several canoes, which induc[e]d
us to call this Canoe Creek it is 28 yards wide, about 4 miles
lower and below the Sand bar is a butifull cascade falling over
a rock of about 100 feet [high], a Short distance lower passed
4 Indian houses on the Lard. Side in a timbered bottom, a fiew
miles further we came too at 3 houses on Stard. Side, back of
which is a pond in which I Saw great numbers of Small Swan,
Capt. Lewis and [I] went into the houses of those people who
appeared Somewhat surprised at first Their houses are built
on the Same Construction of those above, Speak the Same language
and Dress in the Same way, robes of the Skins of wolves,
Deer, Elk, wild cat, or Loucirvia & fox, I also Saw a mountain
Sheap[26] skin the wool of which is long, thick, & corse with
long corse hare on the top of the neck and back something
resembling bristles of a goat, the skin was of white hare,
those animals these people inform me by signs live in the
mountains among the rocks, their horns are Small and streight,
Orter Skins are highly prised among those people as well as
those on the river above, They cue their hare which is divided
on each sholder, and also ware small strips about their necks
with the tale hanging down in front. Those people gave us,
High bush cramberries, [described hereafter not H. B. Crs. ] bread
made of roots, and roots; we purchased three dogs for the
arty to eate; we Smoked with the men, all much pleased with
the violin. Here the mountains are high on each side, those
to tne Lard. Side has Some Snow on them at this time, more
timber than above and of greater variety.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 30th. Wednesday 1805.

A cloudy morning. Some little rain all night, after eating
a slight brackfast of venison we set out. The rocks project
into the river in maney places and have the appearance of haveing
fallen from the high hills those projected rocks is common
& small Bays below & nitches in the rocks. passed 4 cascades
or small streams falling from the mountains on Lard.

     

S. 70°. W.	3	miles to a point of rocks on the Stard. Side, passed a number of stumps at some distance in the water This part of the river resembles a pond partly dreaned leaving many stumps bare both in & out of the water, current about 1 mile pr. Hour
S. 74°. W	2	miles to a point of a timbered bottom on Stard. Side halted to Dine, killed a Deer & 3 ducks & a squirel of the mountains we can plainly here the roreing of the grand Shute below, saw the large Buzard white head and part of the wings white
West	4	miles to the mouth of a river on the Stard. Side of about 60 yards wide passed Std. point & many large rocks promiscuously in the river both above and below this river a large sand bar on the Lard Side

The bottom above the river is about ¾ of a mile wide and
rich, some deer & bear sign. rained moderately all day, we
are wet and cold. Saw several species of wood which I never
saw before, some resembling Beech & other Poplar. Day dark
and disagreeable

 

S. 45°. W.

2 miles to a large rock in the river, passed several rocks and a large sand bar on the Lard. Side verry large rock near the Stard. Side High Mountains on each side, ruged and covered with a variety of timber such as Pine Spruce Seder Cotton wood oake

Great Rapids of tie Columbia River,
sketch-map by Clark.

   

S. 30 W	4	miles to a Island, at the commencement of the grand shute and the Stard. Side where we camped, passed maney large rocks in the river,[27] a large creek on the Std Side at 2 miles, with an Island in the mouth. passed 3 Islands on the Stard. one on the Lard above 2 small Islands opsd. to us on which there grows large Pine, 4 rock Islands which almost chokes up the river. a deep bay to the Stard on which the Indians live in 8 large worm Houses 2 ponds back of them on the Stard 1 above the Islands, one on the Lard side. several small rocks in dift. pts.
	15

I with 2 men proceeded down the river 2 miles on an old
Indian parth to view the rapids, which I found Inpassible for
our canoes without a portage, the roade bad at 1 mile I
saw a Town of Houses entirly abandoned, on an elevated situation,
opsd. a 2d. shute, returned at dark. Capt Lewis and 5
men went to the Town found them kind they gave Beries &
nuts, hut he cd. get nothin[g] from them in the way of Information,
the greater part of those people out collecting roots
below, rained all the evining Those people have one gun &
maney articles which they have purchased of the white people
their food is principally fish

October 30th. Wednesday 1805

A cool morning, a moderate rain all the last night, after
eating a partial brackfast of venison we Set out passed several
places where the rocks projected into the river & have the
appearance of haveing Seperated from the mountains and fallen
promiscuisly into the river, Small nitches are formed in the
banks below those projecting rocks which is comon in this
part of the river, Saw 4 Cascades caused by Small Streams
falling from the mountains on the Lard. Side, a remarkable
circumstance in this part of the river is, the Stumps of pine
trees are in maney places, are at Some distance in the river,
and gives every appearance of the river being damed up below
from some cause which I am not at this time acquainted with,

the current of the river is also verry jentle not exceeding 1-½
mile pr. hour and about ¾ of a mile in width, Some rain, we
landed above the mouth of a Small river on the Stard. Side and
Dined, J. Shields Killed a Buck & Labeash 3 Ducks, here
the river widens to about one mile large Sand bar in the middle,
a great [rock] both in and out of the water, large Stones or
rocks are also permiscuisly scattered about in the river, this
day we Saw Some fiew of the large Buzzard Capt. Lewis Shot
at one, those Buzzards are much larger than any other of
ther Spece or the largest Eagle white under part of their wings
&c. The bottoms above the mouth of this little river[28] is
m[u]ch covered with grass & firn & is about ¾ of a mile wide
rich and rises gradually, below the river (which is 60 yards
wide above its mouth,) the Countery rises with steep assent.
we call this little river from a Speces of Ash [new Timbered]
that wood [Ash] which grows on its banks [is] of a verry large
[size] and different [kind] from any we had before Seen, and a
timber resembling the beech in bark but different in its leaf
which is Smaller, and the tree Smaller.[29] passed maney large
rocks in the river and a large creek on the Stard. Side in the
mouth of which is an Island[30] passed on the right of 3 Islands
near the Stard. Side, and landed on an Island close under the
Stard. Side at the head of the great Shute, and a little below a
village of 8 large houses on a Deep bend on the Stard. Side, and
opposit 2 Small Islands imediately in the head of the Shute,
which Islands are covered with Pine, maney large rocks also,
in the head of the Shute. Ponds back of the houses, and
countrey low for a short distance. The day proved cloudy
dark and disagreeable with some rain all day which kept us
wet. The countary a high mountain on each side thickly
covered with timber, such as Spruce, Pine, Cedar, oake Cotton
&c. &c. I took two men and walked down three miles to
examine the Shute and river below proceeded along an old
Indian path, passd. an old village at 1 mile on an ellevated
Situation of, this village contained verry large houses built in
a different form from any I had seen, and laterly abandoned,
and the most of the boa[r]ds put into a pond of water near the
village, as I conceived to drown the flees, which was emensely
noumerous about the houses, I found by examonation that
we must make a portage of the greater perpotion of our stores
2-½ miles, and the canoes we could haul over the rocks, I
returned at Dark Capt. Lewis and 5 men had just returned
from the village, Capt. L. informed me that he found the
nativs kind, they gave him berries, nuts & fish to eate; but he
could get nothing from them in the way of information. The
greater part of the inhabitants of this Village being absent
down the river Some distance colecting roots Capt. L. Saw
one gun and Several articles which must have been precured
from the white people. a wet disagreeable evening, the only
wood we could get to burn on this little Island on which we
have encamped is the newly discovered Ash, which makes a
tolerable fire. we made fifteen miles to daye.

[Clark, first draft:]

October 31st. Thursday 1805.

a cloudey raney morning I proceed down the river to view
it more at leasure, I took Jos. Fields & Peter Crusat and proceeded
on down, Send Crusat back at 2 ms. to examine the rapid
near the shore & I proceeded on down about 10 miles to a very
high rock in a bottom on the Stard. opsd. 2 Islands covered with
timber on which I saw Inds. at a distance; found the river rocky
for 6 miles, after which the current became uniform. at 1 mile
I passed an old deserted village on a Pond on a high situation
of 8 Houses. at 3 ½ miles one house the only remr. of an antient
village ½ a mile lower I saw 8 vaults for the Dead which
was nearly square 8 feet closely covered with broad boa[r]ds
curiously ingraved, the bones in some of those vaults were 4
feet thick, in others the Dead was yet layed side of each other
nearly East & west, [w]raped up & bound securely in robes,

great numbers of trinkets Brass kittles, sea shells, Iron Pan
Hare &c. &c. were hung about the vaults and great maney
wooden gods, or Imeges of men cut in wood, set up around
the vaults, some of those so old and worn by time that they
were nearly worn out of shape, and some of those vaults so old
that they were roted entirely to the ground. not withstanding
they [the] wood is of Pine & [word illegible.—Ed.] or Seder
as also the wooden gods. I can not learn certainly if those
people worship those wooden emiges, they have them in conspicuous
parts of their houses at 5 miles I passed 4 large
houses on the Stard Side a little above the last rapid and
opposit a large Island which is Situated near the Lard Side.
The enhabitents of those houses had left them closely shut up,
They appeared to contain a great deel of property and Provisions
such as those people use. I did not disturb any thing
about those houses, but proceed[ed] on down below the rapid
which I found to be the last, a large village has at some
period been on the Stard Side below this rapid The bottom is
high stoney and about 2 miles wide covered with grass, here
is the head of a large Island in high water, at this time no water
passes on the Stard. Side I walked thro this Island which I
found to be verry rich, open & covered with Strawberry vines,
and has greatly the appearance of having at some period been
cultivated, The natives has dug roots in some parts of this
Isl. which is about 3 miles long & 1 wide, a small Island covered
with timber opposit the lower point no water runs on
the Stard Side of it below and in the middle of the river is a
large Island covered with tall trees opposit the Strawberry
Island on its Stard Side a creek falls in which has no running
water at present, it has the appearance of throwing out emence
torents. I saw 5 Indians in a canoe below. Jo [Fields] killed
a Sand hill Crane & we returned by the same rout to camp at
the grand Shute where I found several Indians, I smoked
Two canoes loaded with fish for the Trade below come down
& unloaded The after noon fare

         

S. 30°. E	1	mile to a Lard Bend passing the Grand Shute which is ¼ of a mile and the water confined within about 150 yards, passing with Tremendeous force, great number of rocks in the upper pt. of this shute, a low pine mountain on the Stad. Side, high one on the Lard Side.
S. 30°. W.	1	mile to a Lard. bend passed several rocks in the river & a rapid at ¾ of a mile the water being confined between large rocks, maney of which is under water. an old village of 8 houses on the Stard. Side on the hill opposit.
S. 45°. W	2	miles to a high rock above the upper point of a large Isld. on the Lard Side, passed maney rocks in different derections, a house on the Stard. at 1 mile just below is 8 Indian vaults in which is great number of dead, raped up their trinkets, & wooden Gods are placed around the vaults, they lie East & west
S. 60°. W	2	miles to a large black rock in a Stard. bend at the commencement of a rapid opsd. lower point of an Island Lard passed a rapid at ½ ml. not bad. several large rocks in the river permiscusly, 4 large Ind. houses without inhabitents on the Stard. Side at 1 ½ mile a Island on the Lard Side extensive high stoney bottoms on the Stard Side
South	2	miles to a creek under a Bluff in a Lard bend passed the rapid ¼ of a mile long. the upper point of a large Island on the Stard. Side no running water on the Stard. Side of it at present this Island high rich and open covered with Strawbery vines a narrow open bottom on the Lard Side

Those Indians cut off the hands of those they kill & preserve
the fingers.

October 31st. Thursday 1805

A cloudy rainey disagreeable morning I proceeded down
the river to view with more attention [the rapids] we had to
pass on the river below, the two men with me. Jo. Fields &
Peter Crusat proceeded down to examine the rapids the Great
Shute[31] which commenced at the Island on which we encamped

continued with great rapidity and force thro a narrow chanel
much compressd. and interspersed with large rocks for ½ a mile,
at a mile lower is a verry considerable rapid at which place the
waves are remarkably high, and proceeded on in a old Indian
parth 2-½ miles by land thro a thick wood & hill Side, to
the river where the Indians make a portage, from this place
I Dispatched Peter Crusat (our principal waterman) back to
follow the river and examine the practibility of the canoes passing,
as the rapids appeared to continue down below as far as
I could See, I with Jo Fields proceeded on, at ½ a mile
below the end of the portage passed a house where there had
been an old town for ages past as this house was old Decayed
and a place of flees I did not enter it, about ½ a mile
below this house in a verry thick part of the woods is 8 Vaults,
which appeared closely covered and highly deckerated with orniments.
Those vaults are all nearly the Same size and form
8 feet square, 6 feet high, sloped a little so as to convey off
the rain, made of Pine or cedar boards Closely Connected &
s[e]curely Covered with wide boards, with a Dore left in the
East side which is partially stoped with wide boards curiously
engraved. In Several of those vaults the dead bodies w[e]re
raped up verry securely in Skins tied around with cords of
grass and bark, laid on a mat, all east & west and some of those
vaults had as maney as 4 Bodies laying on the Side of each
other. the other Vaults containing bones only, Some contained
bones for the debth of 4 feet. on the tops and on
poles attached to those vaults hung Brass kittles & frying pans
pearced through their bottoms, baskets, bowls of wood, sea
Shels, skins, bits of Cloth, hair, bags of Trinkets & Small pieces
of bone &c. and independant of the [Hieroglyphics, figures of
men & animals] curious engraveing and Paintings on the boards
which formed the Vaults I observed Several wooden Images,
cut in the figure[s] of men and Set up on the Sides of the vaults
all round, Some of those so old and worn by time, that they
were nearly out of Shape,[32] I also observed the remains of
Vaults rotted entirely into the ground and covered with moss.
This must bee the burrying place for maney ages for the inhabitants
of those rapids, the vaults are of the most lasting
timber Pine & Cedar. I cannot say certainly that those nativs
worship those wooden idols as I have every reason to believe
they do not; as they are Set up in the most conspicious parts
of their houses, and treated more like orniments than objects
of adoration. at 2 miles lower and 5 below our Camp I passed
a village of 4 large houses, abandond by the nativs, with their
dores bared up, I looked into those houses and obsirved as
much property as is usial in the houses of those people which
induced me to conclude that they w[e]re at no great distance,
either hunting or Colecting roots, to add to their winter subsistance.
from a Short distance below the vaults the mountain
which is but low on the Stard. Side, leave[s] the river, and a
leavel stoney open bottom suckceeds on the Said Std. Side for
a great Distance down, the mountains high and rugid on the
Lard. Side this open bottom is about 2 miles a Short distance
below this village is a bad Stoney rapid and appears to be the
last in view I observed at this lower rapid the remains of a
large and antient Village which I could plainly trace by the
Sinks in which they had formed their houses, as also those in
which they had buried their fish. from this rapid to the lower
end of the portage the river is crouded with rocks of various
sises between which the water passes with great velociety createing
in maney places large waves, an Island which is Situated
near the Lard. Side occupies about half the distance the lower
point of which is at this rapid. immediately below this rapid
the high water passes through a narrow chanel through the
Stard. Bottom forming an Island of 3 miles Long & one wide;
I walked through this Island which I found to be verry rich
land, and had every appearance of haveing been at some distant
period cultivated at this time it is covered with grass intersperced
with strawberry vines, I observed Several places on
this Island where the nativs had dug for roots and from its
lower point I observed 5 Indians in a Canoe below the upper
point of an Island near the middle of the river covered with tall
timber, which induced me to believe that a village was at no
great distance below, I could not see any rapids below in the
extent of my view which was for a long distance down the river,
which from the last rapids widened and had everry appearance
of being effected by the tide [this was in fact the first tide water]
I deturmined to return to camp 10 miles distant, a remarkable
high detached rock Stands in a bottom on the Stard. Side near
the lower point of this Island on the Stard. Side about 800 feet
high and 400 paces around, we call the Beaten [Beacon] rock.[33] a
Brook falls into the narrow chanel which forms the [what we
call] Strawberry Island, which at this time has no running
water, but has every appearance of dischargeing emence torrents
&c. &c. Jo. Fields shot a Sand hill Crane. I returned by
the Same rout on our Indian parth passing up on the N. W.
Side of the river to our Camp at the Great Shute found
Several Indians from the village, I Smoked with them; Soon
after my return two canoes loaded with fish & Bear grass for
the trade below, came down from the village at the mouth of
the Catterack River, they unloaded and turned their canoes
up Side down on the beech, & camped under a Shelving rock
below our Camp.

One of the men shot a goose above this Great Shute, which
was floating into the Shute, when an Indian observed it,
plunged! into the water & swam to the Goose and brought in
on shore, at the head of the Suck, [great danger, rapids bad, a
descent close by him (150 feet off,) of all Columbia River, current
dashed among rocks, if he had got in the Suck—lost] as this Indian
richly earned the goose I suffered him to keep it which he
about half picked and Spited it up with the guts in it to roste.

This Great Shute or falls is about ½ a mile, with the water
of this great river compressed within the space of 150 paces in
which there is great numbers of both large and Small rocks,
water passing with great velocity forming [foaming] & boiling
in a most horriable manner, with a fall of about 20 feet, below
it widens to about 200 paces and current gentle for a Short distance.
a Short distance above is three Small rockey Islands

and at the head of those falls, three Small rockey Islands are
Situated crosswise the river, Several rocks above in the river.
& 4 large rocks in the head of the Shute; those obstructions
together with the high Stones which are continually braking
loose from the mountain on the Stard. Side and roleing down
into the Shute aded to those which brake loose from these
Islands above and lodge in the Shute, must be the cause of the
rivers daming up to such a distance above, where it shows such
evidant marks of the common current of the river being much
lower than at the present day.

[Clark, first draft:]

November 1st.. Friday 1805.

a verry cold morning wind from N.E. and hard

Took equal altitudes of Sun

       

	h	m	s		h	m	s
A. M.	9	22	51	P. M.	3	12	21
"	"	25	6		"	14	38
"	"	27	24		"	16	47

Altitude produced 36° – 22′ – 15″

Set all hands packing the loading over the portage which is
below the grand shute and is 940 yards of bad way over rocks
& on the slipery hill sides The Indians who came down in
2 canoes last night packed their fish over a portage of 2 ½
miles, to avoid a 2d. Shute four of them took their canoes over
the 1st. portage and run the 2d. Shute, great numbers of sea
otters, they are so cautious that I with deficuelty got a shute
at one today, which I must have killed but could not get him
as he sunk

Lattitude: 45° – 44′ – 3″. North

Cronomiter is 3m 27s too slow M. Time

1st. Novr. PM

Observed time and distance of the Moons Western Limb from
Antares * West

             

		Time			Distance
	h	m	s
P.M.	7	5	33	91°	50′	45″
	"	8	25	"	50	15
	"	10	53	"	52	00
	"	17	1	"	52	30
	"	18	59	"	52	30

The mountains is so high that no further observations can be made
with this *

observed time and distance of Moon's Western Limb from a Arietis
* East

               

		Time			Distance
	h	m	s
P.M.	7	29	34	58°	4′	30″
	"	33	12	"	4	00
	"	35	21	"	3	15
	"	37	16	"	2	00
	"	39	2	"	1	00
	"	40	35	"	0	15

We got all our canoes and baggage below the Great Shute, 3
of the canoes being Leakey from injures receved in hauling
them over the rocks, obliged us to delay to have them repaired
a bad rapid just below us, three Indian canoes loaded with
pounded fish for the trade down the river arrived at the upper
end of the portage this evening. I can't lern whether those
Indians trade with white people or Inds below for the Beeds &
copper which they are so fond of. They are nearly necked
prefuring beeds to any thing. Those Beeds they trafick with
Indians still higher up this river for skins robes &c.&c. The
Indians on those waters do not appear to be sickly, sore eyes
are common and maney have lost their eyes, some one and
maney both, they have bad teeth, and the greater perpotion
of them have worn their teeth down, maney into the gums.
They are rather small high cheeks, women small and homely,
maney of them have sweled legs, large about the knees owing
to the position in which they set on their hams, They are
nearly necked only a piece of leather tied about their breech
and a small robe which generally comes to a little below their

wastes and scercely sufficently large to cover arround them
when confined they are all fond of clothes but more so of
Beeds particularly blue & white beeds. They are durty in the
extreme both in their cooking and in their houses.

Those at the last Village raise the beads about five feet from
the earth, under which they store their Provisions. Their
houses is about 33 feet to 50 feet square, the dore of which
is about 30 Inches high and 16 Inches wide in this form [ILLUSTRATION]
cut in a wide part of Pine board, they have maney
imeges cut in wood, generally in the figure of a man. Those
people are high with what they have to sell, and say the white
people below give them great Prices for what they sell to them.
Their noses are all Pierced, and the[y] wear a white shell
maney of which are 2 Inches long pushed thro' the nose. all
the women have fiat heads pressed to almost a point at top.
The[y] press the female childrens heads between 2 bords when
young untill they form the skul as they wish it which is generally
verry flat. This amongst those people is considered as
a great mark of buty, and is practised in all the tribes we have
passed on this river more or less. Men take more of the
drugery off the women than is common with Indians.

Names of Tribes

• E-neé-Shur at the falls

• E-chee-lute at the lower whorl

• Che-luck-it-te-quar below

• Chim-ná-pum Nation above

• Qua-ba-ha—near.

November 1st. Friday 1805

A verry cool morning wind hard from the N. E. The
Indians who arrived last evening took their Canoes on ther
Sholders and carried them below the Great Shute, we Set
about takeing our Small canoe and all the baggage by land 940
yards of bad slippery and rockey way. The Indians we discoverd
took ther loading the whole length of the portage 2-½

miles, to avoid a second Shute which appears verry bad to
pass, and thro' which they passed with their empty canoes.
Great numbers of Sea Otters, they are so cautious that I with
dificelty a Shot at one today, which I must have killed,
but could not get him as he Sunk.

[ILLUSTRATION]

We got all our baggage over the Portage of 940 yards, after
which we got the 4 large canoes over by slipping them over
the rocks on poles placed across from one rock to another, and
at some places along partial Streams of the river. in passing
those canoes over the rocks &c. three of them rec[ei]ved
injuries which obiliged us to delay to have them repared.

Several Indian Canoes arrived at the head of the portage,
Some of the men acompanied by those from the village come
down to Smoke with us, they appear to Speak the same
language with a little different axcent[34]

I visited the Indian Village found that the construction of
the houses [was] Similar to those abov[e] described, with this
difference only, that they are larger say from 35 to 50 feet by
30 feet, raised about 5 feet above the earth, and nearly as much
below the Dores in the Same form and size cut in the wide
post which supports one end of the ridge pole and which is
carved and painted with different figures & Hieroglyphics.
Those people gave me to eate nuts berries & a little dried fish,
and Sold me a hat of their own taste without a brim, and
baskets in which they hold their water. Their beads [beds]
are raised about 4-½ feet, under which they Store away their
dried fish, between the part on which they lie and the back
wall, they Store away their roots burries nuts and valuable
articles on mats, which are Spread also around the fireplace
which is Sunk about one foot lower than the bottom flore of
the house, this fireplace is about 8 feet long and Six feet wide
secured with a fraim, those houses are calculated for 4, 5 & 6
families, each familey haveing a nice painted ladder to assend
up to their beads. I Saw in those houses Several wooden
Images all cut in imitation of men, but differently fasioned and
placed in the most conspicious parts of the houses, probably
as an orniment

I cannot lern certainly as to the traffick those Inds. carry on
below, if white people or the indians who trade with the whites
who are either settled or visit the mouth of this river. I
believe mostly with the latter as their knowledge of the white
people appears to be verry imperfect, and the articles which
they appear to trade mostly i. e. Pounded fish, Beargrass, and
roots; cannot be an object of comerce with furin merchants.
however they git in return for those articles Blue and white
beeds copper [Tea] Kettles, brass arm bands, some scarlet and
blue robes and a fiew articles of old clothes, they prefer beeds
to any thing, and will part with the last mouthful or articles

of clothing they have for a fiew of those beeds, those beeds
the[y] trafick with Indians Still higher up this river for roabs,
skins, cha-pel-el bread,[35] beargrass &c. who in their turn trafick
with those under the rockey mountains for Beargrass, quarmash
[Pashîco] roots & robes &c.

The nativs of the waters of the Columbia appear helthy,
Some have tumers on different parts of their bodies, and Sore
and weak Eyes are common, maney have lost their Sight
entirely, great numbers with one eye out and frequently the
other verry weak, This misfortune I must again asscribe to
the water &c. They have bad teeth, which is not common
with Indians, maney have worn their teeth down and Some
quite into their gums, this I cannot satisfactorily account for
it, do ascribe it in some measure to their method of eateing,
their food, roots pert[i]cularly, which they make use of as they
are taken out of the earth frequently nearly covered with sand,
I have not Seen any of their long roots offered for Sale clear
of sand. They are rether below the Common Size high cheeks
womin Small and homely, and have Swelled legs and thighs,
and their knees remarkably large which I ascribe to the method
in which they sit on their hams go nearly necked wareing
only a piece of leather tied about their breast which falls down
nearly as low as the waste, a small roabe about 3 feet square,
and a piece of leather tied about their breach, They [womin]
have all flat heads in this quarter both men and women. They
are dirty in the extream, both in their person and cookery.
ware their hare loose hanging in every direction. They ask
high prices for what they Sell and Say that the white people
below give great prices for every thing &c.

The noses are all pierced and when they are dressed they

have a long tapered piece of white shell or wampum put
through the nose, those Shells are about 2 inches in length. I
observed in maney of the villeages which I have passed, the
heads of the female children in the press for the purpose of
compressing their heads in their infancy into a certain form,
between two boards[36]