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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

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[Clark, first draft:]
  
  
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expand sectionXXII. 

[Clark, first draft:]

November 26th Tuesday 1805.

Cloudy and some rain this morning at day light wind blew
from the E.N.E. we set out and proceeded on up on the
North Side of this great river to a rock in the river from
thence we crossed to the lower point of an [blank space in
MS.] Island passed between 2 Islands to the main shore, and
proceeded down the South Side, passed 2 Inlets & halted below
the 2d. at a Indian village of 9 large houses those Indians live
on an emenence behind a Island or a Channel of the river not
more than 300 yds wide, they live on fish & Elk and Wapto
roots, of which we bought a few at a high price they call them
selves Cat-tar-bets (description)

We proceeded on about 8 miles and Encamped in a deep
bend to the South, we had not been encamped long ere
3 Indians came in a canoe to trade the Wapto roots we had
rain all the day all wet and disagreeable a bad place to camp
all around this great bend is high land thickly timbered brushey
& almost impossible to penetrate we saw on an Island below
the village a place of deposit for the dead in canoes Great
numbers of Swan Geese Brant Ducks & Gulls in this great
bend which is crouded with low Islands covered with weeds


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grass &c. and overflowed every flood tide The people of the
last village is [blank space in MS.] they ask emence prices for
what they have to sel Blue Beeds is their great trade they
are fond of clothes or blankits of Blue red or brown

We are now decending to see if a favourable place should
offer on the So Side to winter &c.

from a high Point opsd. a high Isld. down the South Side is S. 30°. W 6
mls. to a point of low land opsd. upr. pt. of Isd. passed lowr. pt. 1st Isd. marshey.
at the upr. pt. of 2 low Isd. opsd each other at 4 miles

                 
S. 12°. E 2  miles to an Indn Cat-tar-bet vilg of 9 houses passed an
inlet 300 yds wide on Std. at ½ a mile 
S. 60°. W 1  mile to high land on the South 
S. 70°. W 1  d° to a South point Low land a low Isd. opsd. pass
the former 
S. 50°. W 6  miles to a high point S. 
South 2  miles to a bend camped 
N. 70°. W. 6  miles to a point No. 1 a deep bend to the left 
S. 50°. W 8  miles to Point No. 2 passing a deep bend to the South 
S. 50 W 1 ½  miles 
S. 40 W 1 ½  miles to pt in Bay 

From the Peninsolu to the upper point is

                 
N. 65°. E  To Point [blank space in MS.] miles across the river
is N. 25°. W 4 miles 
from Pt. No. 2 to Cape Disapointmt N. 70° W. 
To point Adams is West 
To 1st Creek small above Adams S. 60 W 
To 2d Creek d° d° S. 40 W 
to 3d. d° d° d° S. 20 W. 
To Fort River is imedeately cross S 10° E° 
To the opening of the mouth of River S. 50 E 
The bay turns to the N of East & receves 2 other
small Brooks 

Tuesday 26th. November 1805

Cloudy and Some rain this Morning from 6 oClock. Wind
from the E.N.E. we Set out out early and crossed a Short
distance above the rock, out in the river, & between Some low
Marshey Islands to the South Side of the Columbia at a low


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bottom about 3 miles below Point Samuel[6] and proceeded [on]
near the South Side leaveing the Seal Islands to our right and
a marshey bottom to the left 5 Miles to the Calt-har-mar
[Cathlahma] Village of 9 large wood houses on a handsom
elivated Situation near the foot of a Spur of the high land behind
a large low Island Seperated from the Southerly Shore
by a Chanel of a'bout 200 yards Wide, This Nation appear
to differ verry little either in language, Customs dress or appearance
from the Chinnooks & War. ci a cum live principally
on fish and pappato they have also other roots, and Some Elk
meat.

We purchased Some green fish & Wap pá to for which we
gave imoderate pricies. after dining on the fresh fish which
we purchased, we proceeded on through a Deep bend to the
South and encamped under a high hill, where we found much
difficuelty in precuring wood to burn, as it was raining hard,
as it had been the greater part of the day. Soon after we encamped
3 Indians of the last town Came in a Canoe with Wap.
pa to
roots to sell to us, Some of which we purchased with
fish hooks. from the Village quite around this bend to the
West the land is high and thickly timbered with pine balsom
&c. a Short distance below the Calt har mer Village on the
island which is Opposit I observed Several Canoes Scaffold[ed]
in which [were] contained their dead, as I did not examine
this mode of depos[it]ing the dead, must refer it to a discription
hereafter.

 
[6]

Point Samuel must be that cape now known as Cathlamet Head. On the explorers'
return (see March 24, 1806) they mention a Cathlamet village just below this
point. Confusion has arisen because the present town of Cathlamet is on the north
side of the river. Thomas U. Strong of Portland, Oregon, writes that "Some time
after the expedition of Lewis and Clark the Cathlamet Tribe of Indians, very much
reduced by some pestilence that prevailed, moved over to the north bank of the Columbia
River and settled somewhere near the present town of Cathlamet where somt
kinsfolk of theirs, the Wahkiakums, had already a village." The old village of the
time of Lewis and Clark was on the south bank near the present town of Knappa,
on the Columbia River Railway.—Ed.