University of Virginia Library

[Clark, first draft:]

Novr. 18th. Monday 1805.

a little cloudy this morning I set out at day light with 10
men & my servent. Shabono, Serjt. Pryor Odderway Jos &
R. Fields Shannon Colter, Wiser, Lebiech & york proceeded
on Down the shore from the 1st. point N. W. 6 miles to a
lodge at the enterance of a river on the Std. in the middle of
a boggey Bay S. 79°. W. 7 miles to the mouth of a River (old
cabins open bogs abound for 2 ms. back) we call after the nation
Chin-nook River from this river to camp Point is S. 64°. E to
Bluff Point (a small Island in a nitch of the Bay in the same
ground) is S. 20°. W. 1 ½ miles to Cape Disapt. is South To
point adams is S. 22°. E about 25 miles. passed a part of a
fish about 1 mile above I supposed to be a Grampass The
men killed 4 brants & Leb. killed 48 plover of 2 different


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kinds yellow & black legs had them picked cooked and we
Dined on them.

       
S. 80°. W.  1 mile to the bottom of a nitch at a branch from a pond 
South 8° W.  to an Isd. in the 2d nitch from this passed 2 points in the 
course To the center of the It. nitch a run is 1 mile 
To the d° of the 2 d° is 1 mile 

At a run & Island near the shore here the Traders ancher
& trade. we passed at each point a soft clifts of yellow brown
& dark soft stones here Capt Lewis myself & sevel. of the
men marked our names day of the month & by Land &c. &c.
from this S. W. 3 miles to the Iner pt. of Cape Disapointmt.
passed a point & 2 small nitches (Reuben Fields killed a Vulter)
we found a curious flat fish shaped like a turtle, with fins
on each side, and a tale notched like [ILLUSTRATION] a fish, the Internals
on one side and tale & fins flat wise This
fish (Flownder)[40] has a white belly on one side & lies
flat to the Ground passed from last nitch across to
the ocean ½ a mile low land the Cape is a high Partly bald
hill, founded on rock, I assended a high seperate bald hill
covered with long corse grass & seperated from the hight of
countrey by a slashey bottom 2 miles N. 60 W of the Cape.
thence to a 2d Grassey pt is N. 50°. W. 2 miles Those hills
are founded on rocks & the waves brake with great fury against
them, the Coast is sholey for several miles of[f] this Cape
& for some distance off to the N W a Sand bar in the mouth,
sholey some distance out from the mouth The coast from the
Cape N W is open for a short distance back then it becomes
thick piney countrey intersperced with points

Point addams is S. 20° W about 20 miles the course on that
side bears S. 45°. W. I cannot assertain the prosise course of
the Deep water in the mouth of the river, the channel is but
narrow. I proceeded on up above the 2d. point and Encamped
on the shore above the high tide, evening clear, for a short
time Supd. on Brant and pounded fish men all chearfull,
express a Desire to winter near the falls this winter

 
[40]

This word "Flownder" was written in later.—Ed.


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November 18th. Monday 1805

A little cloudy this morning I set out with 10 men and my
man York to the Ocian by land. i. e. Serjt. Ordway & Pryor,
Jos. & Ru Fields, Go. Shannon, W. Brattin, J. Colter, P.
Wiser, W. Labieche & P. Shabono one of our interpreters &
York. I set out at Day light and proceeded on a Sandy beech
N. 80°. W. 1 Mile to a point of rocks about 40 feet high,
from the top of which the hill Side is open and assend with a
Steep assent to the tops of the mountains, a Deep nitch and
two Small Streams above this point, then my course was
N. W. 7 Mile[s] to the enterance of a creek at a lodge or
cabin of Chinnooks passing on a wide Sand bar the bay to my
left and Several Small ponds containing great numbers of water
fowls to my right; with a narrow bottom of alder & Small
balsam between the Ponds and the Mountn. at the Cabin I saw
4 womin and Some children one of the women in a desperate
Situation, covered with sores scabs & ulsers no doubt the
effects of venereal disorders which Several of this nation which
I have Seen appears to have.

This creek appears to be nothing more than the conveyance
of Several Small dreans from the high hills and the ponds on
each side near its mouth. here we were set across all in one
canoe by 2 squars. to each I gave a small hook

S. 79°. W. 5 Miles to the mouth of Chin nook river,[41] passed
a low bluff [of a small hite] at 2 miles below which is the remains
of huts near which place is also the remains of a whale
on the sand, the countrey low open and Slashey, with elivated
lands interspersed covered with (Some) pine & thick under
groth. This river is 40 yards wide at low tide. here we
made a fire and dined on 4 brant and 48 Plever which was
killed by Labiech on the coast as we came on. Rubin Fields
Killed a Buzzard [Vulture] of the large Kind near the [meat
of the
] whale we Saw [W. 25lb.] measured from the tips of
the wings across 9 ½ feet, from the point of the Bill to the end
of the tail 3 feet 10-¼ inches, middle toe 5-½ inches, toe nale
1 inch & 3-½ lines, wing feather 2-½ feet long & 1 inch 5


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lines diamiter, tale feathers 14-½ inches, and the head is 6-½
inches including the beak. [head in Peale's Mus.][42] after dineing
we crossed the river in an old canoe which I found on the
sand near Some old houses and proceeded on

S. 20°. W. 4 Miles to a Small rock island in a deep nitch
passed a nitch at 2 miles in which there is a dreen from Some
ponds back; the land low opposite this nitch a bluff of yellow
clay and Soft Stone from the river to the commencement of
this nitch. below the countrey rises to high hills of about 80
or 90 feet above the water. at 3 miles passed a nitch. this
rock Island is Small and at the South of a deep bend in which
the nativs inform us the Ships anchor, and from whence they
receive their goods in return for their peltries and Elk skins
&c. this appears to be a very good harber for large Ships.
here I found Capt. Lewis name on a tree. I also engraved my
name, & by land the day of the month and year, as also Several
of the men.

S. 46°. E. 2 Miles to the iner extremity of Cape Disapointment
passing a nitch in which there is a Small rock island, a
Small Stream falls into this nitch from a pond which is imediately
on the Sea coast passing through a low isthmus. this
Cape is an ellivated circlier [circular] point covered with thick
timber on the iner Side and open grassey exposur next to the
Sea and rises with a Steep assent to the hight of about 150 or
160 feet above the leavel of the water this cape as also the
Shore both on the Bay & Sea coast is a dark brown rock.[43] I
crossed the neck of Land low and ½ of a mile wide to the main
Ocian, at the foot of a high open hill projecting into the ocian,
and about one mile in Si[r]cumfrance. I assended this hill
which is covered with high corse grass.[44] decended to the N.
of it and camped. [walked] 19 Miles [to-day]. I picked up
a flounder on the beech this evening


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from Cape Disapointment to a high point of a Mountn. which
we shall call [Clarke's Point of Fiew][45] beares S. 20°. W. about
40 [25] miles, point adams is verry low and is Situated within
the derection between those two high points of land, the water
appears verry Shole from off the mouth of the river for a great
distance, and I cannot assertain the direction of the deepest
chanel, the Indians point nearest the opposit Side. the
waves appear to brake with tremendious force in every direction
quite across a large Sand bar lies within the mouth
nearest to point Adams which is nearly covered at high tide.
I suped on brant this evening with a little pounded fish.
Some rain in the after part of the night. men appear much
Satisfied with their trip beholding with estonishment the high
waves dashing against the rocks & this emence Ocian

 
[41]

Wallacut River, on the U. S. Coast survey chart.—Ed.

[42]

This was the Californian condor (Pseudogryphus californianus), as large as the
condor of the Andes.—Ed.

[43]

In the Courses and Distances (Codex H, p. 148) which here end, Clark entered
"Ocian 165 Miles from quick sand river. Ocian 190 Miles from the first rapid.
Ocian 4162 Miles from the Mouth of Missouri R."—Ed.

[44]

Clark climbed to the top of Cape Disappointment, where the old light house
stands, not far from Fort Canby,—O. D. Wheeler.

[45]

Now known as False Tillamook Head.—Ed.