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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

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November 4th. Monday 1805

A cloudy cool morning wind from the West we Set out at
½ past 8 oClock, one man Shannon set out early to walk on
the Island to kill something, he joined us at the lower point
with a Buck. This Island is 6 miles long and near 3 miles
wide thinly timbered (Tide rose last night 18 inches perpendicular
at Camp) near the lower point of this dimond Island
is the head of a large Island Seperated from a Small one by
a narrow chanel, and both Situated nearest the Lard. Side,
those Islands as also the bottoms are thickly covered with Pine
&c. river wide, country low on both Sides; on the Main
Lard. Shore a Short distance below the last Island we landed at
a village of 25 houses: 24 of those houses we[re] thached with
Straw, and covered with bark, the other House is built of
boards in the form of those above, except that it is above
ground and about 50 feet in length [and covered with broad
split boards
] This village contains about 200 Men of the Skilloot[8]
nation I counted 52 canoes on the bank in front of this
village maney of them verry large and raised in bow. we recognized
the man who over took us last night, (our pilot who
came in his canoe
) he invited us to a lodge in which he had
Some part and gave us a roundish roots about the Size of
a Small Irish potato which they roasted in the embers until
they became Soft, This root they call Wap-pa-to the Bulb of


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which the Chinese cultivate in great quantities called the Sa-git
ti folia
or common arrow head,[9] (we believe it to be the Same)
it has an agreeable taste and answers verry well in place of
bread. we purchased about 4 bushels of this root and divided
it to our party,

at 7 miles below this village passed the upper point of a large
Island nearest the Lard. Side, a Small Prarie in which there is
a pond opposit on the Stard. here I landed and walked on
Shore, about 3 miles a fine open Prarie for about 1 mile, back
of which the countrey rises gradually and wood land comencies
Such as white oake, pine of different kinds, wild crabs [with the
taste and flavour of the common crab
] and Several Species of
undergroth of which I am not acquainted, a few cotton wood
trees & the Ash of this countrey[10] grow scattered on the river
bank, Saw Some Elk and Deer Sign, and joined Capt. Lewis
at a place he had landed with the party for Diner. Soon after
Several canoes of Indians from the village above came down,
dressed for the purpose as I supposed of Paying us a friendly
visit, they had scarlet & blue blankets Salor Jackets, overalls,
Shirts and hats independant of their usial dress; the most of
them had either [war axes Spears or Bows Sprung with quivers
of arrows
,] Muskets or pistols and tin flasks to hold their
powder, Those fellows we found assumeing and disagreeable,
however we Smoked with them and treated them with every
attention & friendship.

dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my
pipe Tomahawk which they were Smoking with, I imediately
serched every man and the canoes, but could find nothing of
my Tomahawk, while Serching for the Tomahawk one of
those Scoundals Stole a cappoe [Capotte (gr: coat)] of one of our
interperters, which was found Stufed under the root of a tree,


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near the place they Sat, we became much displeased with
those fellows, which they discovered and moved off on their
return home to their village, except 2 canoes which had passed
on down. we proceeded on met a large & a Small canoe from
below with 12 men the large canoe was ornimented with
Images carved in wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man
in Stern, Painted & fixed verry netely on the canoe, rising to near
the hight of a man two Indians verry finely Dressed & with
hats on was in this canoe passed the lower point of the
Island[11] which is nine miles in length haveing passed 2 Islands
on the Stard. Side of this large Island, three Small Islands at its
lower point. the Indians make Signs that a village is Situated
back of those Islands on the Lard. Side. and I believe that
a chanel is Still on the Lrd. Side as a canoe passed in between
the Small Islands, and made Signs that way, probably
to traffick with some of the nativs liveing on another
chanel, at 3 miles lower, and 12 Leagues below quick sand
river passed a village of four large houses (Mulknomans) on the
Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of Mt. Helien [St.
Helens] which is perhaps the highest pinical in America
[from their base] it bears N. 25°. E. about 90 miles. This
is the mountain I saw from the Muscle Shell rapid on the
19th of October last covered with Snow, it rises Something in
the form of a Sugar lofe[12] about a mile lower passed a Single
house on the Lard. Side, and one on the Stard. Side, passed
a village on each side and camped near a house on the Stard. Side
we proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get
clear of the nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom,
finding that we could not get Shut of those people for
one night, we landed and Encamped on the Stard. Side[13] Soon

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after 2 canoes came to us loaded with Indians, we purchased
a fiew roots of them.

This evening we saw vines much resembling the raspberry
which is verry thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at
about 5 miles on the Lard. side which runs S. E. & N. W.
covered with tall timber the bottoms below in this range of
hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw white geese with
a part of their wings black. the river here is 1-½ miles wide,
and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy
Island the brant & geese make such a noise that it will be
impossible for me to sleap. we made 29 miles to day

Killed a Deer and Several brant and ducks. [I saw a Brarow
tamed at the Ist. village to day
] The Indians which we have
passd to day (in their boats were of) of the Scil-loot nation
(going up to the fallsdiffer a little) in their language from
those near & about the long narrows of the Che-luc-it-te-quar
or E-chee-lute, their dress differ but little, except they have
more of the articles precured from the white traders, they all
have flatened heads both men and women, live principally on
fish and Wap pa too roots, they also kill some fiew Elk and
Deer, dureing the short time I remained in their village they
brought in three Deer which they had killed with their Bow &
arrows. They are thievishly inclined as we have experienced.

 
[8]

This was the tribe known to later travellers as Kreluit. They were of lower
Chinookan origin, and acted as middlemen between the Indians of the coast and those
higher up the river.—Ed.

[9]

The roots of the common arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia,) also common throughout
the Northern States; the species cultivated in China is S. sinensis. Until a recent
revision of the American genus by J. G. Smith several species were confused. These
tubers form an important article of food among many Northwestern tribes. It is sometimes
called "swamp potato."—Ed.

[10]

The white oak of the Columbia is Quercus garryana; the wild crab is Pyrus
rivularis
Dougl.; the cotton wood is Populus trichocarpa T. & Gr.; the ash is
Fraxinus oregana Nutt.—C. V. Piper.

[11]

Named by the explorers Image-canoe, and later Wappatoo; now known as
Sauvies Island. As it lies across the entrance to the Multnomah, that river was not
seen by Lewis and Clark in passing it; but, hearing of it on the return trip, Clark
ascended it for a short distance (April 3, 1806).—Ed.

[12]

This was probably the explorers' first view of Mount St. Helens, which rises to
an altitude of 9,750 feet in Skamania County, Washington. This peak was first
sighted by Vancouver in May, 1792, and named the following October, in honor of
Lord St. Helens, then British ambassador at Madrid.—Ed.

[13]

Probably near Knapp's Landing, Washington, a few miles below the mouth of
the Multnomah.—Ed.