University of Virginia Library

[Clark, first draft:]

Novr. 4th.. Monday 1805.

a cloudy cool morning, wind West, we set out at ½ past 8
oClock haveing dispatched 4 men in the small canoe to hunt

Course

 

West

6

miles to the North side & lower point of a large Island, passed the lower point of dimon[d] Island at 3 miles, a little below the head of a large Island on the Lard Side (river wide and Countrey low on both Sides & thickly covered with pine) this Island is seperated from one on its Lard. by a narrow chan1. in which there is only water in high tide. which rises here 18 Inches. high tide at 6 oClock P M

We landed at a village 200 men of Flatheads of 25 houses
50 canoes built of straw, we were treated very kindly by them,
they gave us round root near the size of a hens egg roasted
which they call Wap-to to eat.

     

N. 88°. W. 6	6	miles to Point on the Stard Side passed a village [of] 25 Houses on the Lard. mane shore, those houses are differently built from those above all except one verry large house covered with bark & Thached with straw. verry worm
N. 80°. W.	3	miles on the Stard. Side, a Pon [d] and a small plain on Std Side passed the head of an Island at 1 mile near the middle of the river to a 2d. Island opsd. the end of this course
N. 76°. W.	4	miles on the Stard Side passed a Island near the large Island Ld. a range of high hills on the Lard Side running S E. & N W. leaveing a large bottom on the river. I walked out on the Stard Side found the country fine, an open Prarie for 1 mile back of which the wood land comence riseing back, the timber on the edge of the Prarie is white oke, back is spruce pine & other species of Pine mixed some under groth of a wild crab & a species of wood I'm not acquainted [with], a species of maple & cotton wood grow near this river, some low bushes

Indians continue to be with us, several canoes continue with
us, The Indians at the last village have more cloth and Uropean
trinkets than above I saw some Guns, a sword, maney
Powder flasks, salers Jackets, overalls, hats & shirts, Copper
and Brass trinkets with few Beeds only. dureing the time I
was at Dinner the Indians stole my tomahawk which I made
use of to smoke I serched but could not find it, a Pond on
the Stard. Side off from the river. Raspberries and [blank
space in MS.] are also in the bottoms met a large and small
canoe with 12 men from below the men were dressed with a
variety of articles of European manufactory the large canoe
had emiges on the bow & stern handsomly carved in wood &
painted with the figure of a Bear in front & man in a stern.
Saw white geese with black wings. Saw a small crab-apple
with all the taste & flavor of the common. Those Indians
were all armed with Pistols or bows and arrows ready sprung
war axes &c.

     

N W.	3	miles on the Stard. Side passed the Lower point of Immage canoe Island and 4 small Islands at its lower point all on the Lard Side.
N. 35°. W.	1	mile on the Stard Side, bottoms low and extensive not subject to over flow, river about 1 ½ miles wide
North	3	miles to a white tree on the Stard. Side, high tide here at 5 oClock P. M.

Mount Hellen bears N. 25°. E about 80 miles, this is the
mountain we saw near the forks of this river. it is emensely

high and covered with snow, riseing in a kind of cone perhaps
the highest pinecal from the common leavel in America
passed a village of 4 hs. on the Stard Side at 2 mi[l]es, one
at 3mls.

   

N. 28°. W.	3	miles to a Stard bend & camped near a village on the Std. Side passed one on each side. proceded on untill after dark to get clere of Indians we could not 2 canoes pursued us and 2 others came to us, and were about us all night we bought a fiew roots &c.
	29

One deer 2 Ducks & Brant killed

November 4th. Monday 1805

A cloudy cool morning wind from the West we Set out at
½ past 8 oClock, one man Shannon set out early to walk on
the Island to kill something, he joined us at the lower point
with a Buck. This Island is 6 miles long and near 3 miles
wide thinly timbered (Tide rose last night 18 inches perpendicular
at Camp) near the lower point of this dimond Island
is the head of a large Island Seperated from a Small one by
a narrow chanel, and both Situated nearest the Lard. Side,
those Islands as also the bottoms are thickly covered with Pine
&c. river wide, country low on both Sides; on the Main
Lard. Shore a Short distance below the last Island we landed at
a village of 25 houses: 24 of those houses we[re] thached with
Straw, and covered with bark, the other House is built of
boards in the form of those above, except that it is above
ground and about 50 feet in length [and covered with broad
split boards] This village contains about 200 Men of the Skilloot[8]
nation I counted 52 canoes on the bank in front of this
village maney of them verry large and raised in bow. we recognized
the man who over took us last night, (our pilot who
came in his canoe) he invited us to a lodge in which he had
Some part and gave us a roundish roots about the Size of
a Small Irish potato which they roasted in the embers until
they became Soft, This root they call Wap-pa-to the Bulb of

which the Chinese cultivate in great quantities called the Sa-git
ti folia or common arrow head,[9] (we believe it to be the Same)
it has an agreeable taste and answers verry well in place of
bread. we purchased about 4 bushels of this root and divided
it to our party,

at 7 miles below this village passed the upper point of a large
Island nearest the Lard. Side, a Small Prarie in which there is
a pond opposit on the Stard. here I landed and walked on
Shore, about 3 miles a fine open Prarie for about 1 mile, back
of which the countrey rises gradually and wood land comencies
Such as white oake, pine of different kinds, wild crabs [with the
taste and flavour of the common crab] and Several Species of
undergroth of which I am not acquainted, a few cotton wood
trees & the Ash of this countrey[10] grow scattered on the river
bank, Saw Some Elk and Deer Sign, and joined Capt. Lewis
at a place he had landed with the party for Diner. Soon after
Several canoes of Indians from the village above came down,
dressed for the purpose as I supposed of Paying us a friendly
visit, they had scarlet & blue blankets Salor Jackets, overalls,
Shirts and hats independant of their usial dress; the most of
them had either [war axes Spears or Bows Sprung with quivers
of arrows,] Muskets or pistols and tin flasks to hold their
powder, Those fellows we found assumeing and disagreeable,
however we Smoked with them and treated them with every
attention & friendship.

dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my
pipe Tomahawk which they were Smoking with, I imediately
serched every man and the canoes, but could find nothing of
my Tomahawk, while Serching for the Tomahawk one of
those Scoundals Stole a cappoe [Capotte (gr: coat)] of one of our
interperters, which was found Stufed under the root of a tree,

near the place they Sat, we became much displeased with
those fellows, which they discovered and moved off on their
return home to their village, except 2 canoes which had passed
on down. we proceeded on met a large & a Small canoe from
below with 12 men the large canoe was ornimented with
Images carved in wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man
in Stern, Painted & fixed verry netely on the canoe, rising to near
the hight of a man two Indians verry finely Dressed & with
hats on was in this canoe passed the lower point of the
Island[11] which is nine miles in length haveing passed 2 Islands
on the Stard. Side of this large Island, three Small Islands at its
lower point. the Indians make Signs that a village is Situated
back of those Islands on the Lard. Side. and I believe that
a chanel is Still on the Lrd. Side as a canoe passed in between
the Small Islands, and made Signs that way, probably
to traffick with some of the nativs liveing on another
chanel, at 3 miles lower, and 12 Leagues below quick sand
river passed a village of four large houses (Mulknomans) on the
Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of Mt. Helien [St.
Helens] which is perhaps the highest pinical in America
[from their base] it bears N. 25°. E. about 90 miles. This
is the mountain I saw from the Muscle Shell rapid on the
19th of October last covered with Snow, it rises Something in
the form of a Sugar lofe[12] about a mile lower passed a Single
house on the Lard. Side, and one on the Stard. Side, passed
a village on each side and camped near a house on the Stard. Side
we proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get
clear of the nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom,
finding that we could not get Shut of those people for
one night, we landed and Encamped on the Stard. Side[13] Soon
after 2 canoes came to us loaded with Indians, we purchased
a fiew roots of them.

This evening we saw vines much resembling the raspberry
which is verry thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at
about 5 miles on the Lard. side which runs S. E. & N. W.
covered with tall timber the bottoms below in this range of
hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw white geese with
a part of their wings black. the river here is 1-½ miles wide,
and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy
Island the brant & geese make such a noise that it will be
impossible for me to sleap. we made 29 miles to day

Killed a Deer and Several brant and ducks. [I saw a Brarow
tamed at the Ist. village to day] The Indians which we have
passd to day (in their boats were of) of the Scil-loot nation
(going up to the falls—differ a little) in their language from
those near & about the long narrows of the Che-luc-it-te-quar
or E-chee-lute, their dress differ but little, except they have
more of the articles precured from the white traders, they all
have flatened heads both men and women, live principally on
fish and Wap pa too roots, they also kill some fiew Elk and
Deer, dureing the short time I remained in their village they
brought in three Deer which they had killed with their Bow &
arrows. They are thievishly inclined as we have experienced.