University of Virginia Library

CHAPTER XIX.

The party return in safety to St. Louis:

Sunday, August 31. We examined our arms, and proceeded
with the wind in our favour. For some time we saw
several Indians on the hills, but soon lost sight of them. In
passing the dome, and the first village of barking squirrels,
we stopped and killed two fox squirrels, an animal which we
have not seen on the river higher than this place. At night
we encamped on the northeast side, after a journey of seventy
miles. We had seen no game, as usual, on the river;
but in the evening the musquetoes soon discovered us.

Monday, September 1. We set out early, but were shortly
compelled to put to shore, for half an hour, till a thick fog
disappeared. At nine o'clock we passed the entrance of the
Quicurre, which presents the same appearance as when we
ascended, the water rapid and of a milky-white colour. Two
miles below several Indians ran down to the bank, and beckoned
to us to land; but as they appeared to be Tetons, and of
a war party, we paid no attention to them, except to inquire
to what tribe they belonged; but as the Sioux interpreter did
not understand much of the language, they probably mistook
his question. As one of our canoes was behind, we were
afraid of an attack on the men, and therefore landed on an
open commanding situation, out of the view of the Indians,
in order to wait for them. We had not been in this position
fifteen minutes, when we heard several guns, which we immediately
concluded were fired at the three hunters; and being
now determined to protect them against any number of

Indians, captain Clarke with fifteen men ran up the river,
whilst captain Lewis hobbled up the bank, and formed the rest
of the party in such a manner as would best enable them to
protect the boats. On turning a point of the river, captain
Clarke was agreeably surprised at seeing the Indians remaining
in the place where we left them, and our canoe at
the distance of a mile. He now went on a sandbar, and
when the Indians crossed, gave them his hand, and was informed
that they had been amusing themselves with shooting
at an old keg, which we had thrown into the river, and
was floating down. We now found them to be part of a band
of eighty lodges of Yanktons, on Plum creek, and therefore
invited them down to the camp, and after smoking several
pipes, told them that we had mistaken them for Tetons,
and had intended putting every one of them to death, if they
had fired at our canoe; but finding them Yanktons, who
were good men, we were glad to take them by the hand as
faithful children, who had opened their ears to our counsels.
They saluted the Mandan with great cordiality, and
one of them declared that their ears had indeed been opened,
and that they had followed our advice since we gave a
medal to their great chief, and should continue to do so. We
now tied a piece of riband to the hair of each Indian, and
gave them some corn. We made a present of a pair of leggings
to the principal chief, and then took our leave, being
previously overtaken by our canoe. At two o'clock we
landed to hunt on Bonhomme island, but obtained a single
elk only. The bottom on the northeast side is very rich,
and so thickly overgrown with pea-vines and grass, interwoven
with grape-vines, that some of the party who attempted
to hunt there, were obliged to leave it and ascend the
plain, where they found the grass nearly as high as their
heads. These plains are much richer below than above the
Quicurre, and the whole country is now very beautiful.
After making fifty two miles against a head wind, we stopped
for the night on a sandbar, opposite to the Calumet bluff,
where we had encamped on the first of September, 1804,
and where our flag-staff was still standing. We suffered
very much from the musquetoes, till the wind became so
high as to blow them all away.

Tuesday, 2. At eight o'clock we passed the river
Jacques, but soon after were compelled to land, in consequence
of the high wind from the northeast, and remain till
sunset: after which we went on to a sandbar twenty-two
miles from our camp of last evening. Whilst we were on
shore we killed three buffaloes, and four prairie fowls,
which are the first we have seen in descending. Two turkies
were also killed, and were very much admired by the
Indians, who had never seen that animal before. The plains
continue level and fertile, and in the low grounds there is
much white oak, and some white ash in the ravines and high
bottoms, with lyn and slippery elm occasionally. During
the night the wind shifted to the southwest and blew the
sand over us in such a manner, that our situation was very
unpleasant. It lulled, however, towards daylight, and we
then,

Wednesday, 3, proceeded. At eleven o'clock we passed
the Redstone. The river is now crowded with sandbars,
which are very differently situated now from what they were
when we ascended. But notwithstanding these and the head
wind, we made sixty miles before night, when we saw two
boats and several men on shore. We landed, and found a
Mr. James Airs, a partner of a house at Prairie de Chien,
who had come from Mackinau by the way of Prairie de
Chien and St. Louis with a license to trade among the Sioux
for one year. He had brought two canoes loaded with
merchandise, but lost many of his most useful articles in a
squall some time since. After so long an interval, the sight
of any one who could give us information of our country, was
peculiarly delightful, and much of the night was spent in
making inquiries into what had occurred during our absence.
We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal gentleman,

and when we proposed to him to purchase a small
quantity of tobacco, to be paid for in St. Louis, he very readily
furnished every man of the party with as much as he
could use during the rest of the voyage, and insisted on our
accepting a barrel of flour. This last we found very agreeable,
although we have still a little flour which we had deposited
at the mouth of Maria's river. We could give in return
only about six bushels of corn, which was all that we could
spare. The next morning.

Thursday, 4, we left Mr. Airs about eight o'clock, and
after passing the Big Sioux river, stopped at noon near Floyd's
bluff. On ascending the hill we found that the grave of Floyd
had been opened, and was now half uncovered. We filled
it up, and then continued down to our old camp near the
Maha village, where all our baggage, which had been wet
by the rain of last night, was exposed to dry. There is no
game on the river except wild geese and pelicans. Near
Floyd's grave are some flourishing black walnut trees, which
are the first we have seen on our return. At night we heard
the report of several guns in a direction towards the Maha
village, and supposed it to be the signal of the arrival of
some trader. But not meeting him when we set out, the
next morning,

Friday, 5, we concluded that the firing was merely to
announce the return of the Mahas to the village, this being
the season at which they return home from buffaloe hunting,
to take care of their corn, beans and pumpkins. The
river is now more crooked, the current more rapid, and
crowded with snags and sawyers, and the bottoms on both
sides well supplied with timber. At three o'clock we passed
the Bluestone bluff, where the river leaves the highlands
and meanders through a low rich bottom, and at night encamped,
after making seventy-three miles.

Saturday, 6. The wind continued ahead, but the musquetoes
was so tormenting that to remain was more unpleasant
than even to advance, however slowly, and we therefore

proceeded. Near the Little Sioux river we met a trading
boat belonging to Mr. Augustus Chateau, of St. Louis,
with several men, on their way to trade with the Yanktons
at the river Jacques. We obtained from them a gallon of
whiskey, and gave each of the party a dram, which is the
first spirituous liquor any of them have tasted since the
fourth of July 1805. After remaining with them for some
time we went on to a sandbar, thirty miles from our last
encampment, where we passed the night in expectation of
being joined by two of the hunters. But as they did not
come on, we set out next morning,

Sunday, 7, leaving a canoe with five men, to wait for
them, but had not gone more than eight miles, when we
overtook them; we therefore fired a gun, which was a signal
for the men behind, which, as the distance in a direct line
was about a mile, they readily heard and soon joined us. A
little above the Soldier's river we stopped to dine on elk, of
which we killed three, and at night, after making forty-four
miles, encamped on a sandbar, where we hoped in vain
to escape from the musquetoes. We therefore set out early
the next morning,

Monday, 8, and stopped for a short time at the Council
bluffs, to examine the situation of the place, and were confirmed
in our belief that it would be a very eligible spot for
a trading establishment. Being anxious to reach the Platte,
we plied our oars so well, that by night we had made seventy-eight
miles, and landed at our old encampment at Whitecatfish
camp, twelve miles above that river. We had here
occasion to remark the wonderful evaporation from the Missouri,
which does not appear to contain more water, nor is
its channel wider than at the distance of one thousand miles
nearer its source, although within that space it receives
about twenty rivers, some of them of considerable width,
and a great number of creeks. This evaporation seems, in
fact, to be greater now than when we ascended the river,
for we are obliged to replenish the inkstand every day with
fresh ink, nine tenths of which must escape by evaporation.

Tuesday, 9. By eight o'clock we passed the river
Platte, which is lower than it was, and its waters almost
clear, though the channel is turbulent as usual. The sandbars
which obstructed the Missouri are, however, washed
away, and nothing is to be seen except a few remains of the bar.
Below the Platte, the current of the Missouri becomes evidently
more rapid, and the obstructions from fallen timber
increased. The river bottoms are extensive, rich, and
covered with tall, large timber, which is still more abundant
in the hollows of the ravines, where may be seen, oak,
ash, elm, interspersed with some walnut and hickory. The
musquetoes also, though still numerous, seem to lose some
of their vigour. As we advance so rapidly, the change of
climate is very perceptible, the air is more sultry than we
have experienced for a long time before, and the nights so
warm that a thin blanket is now sufficient, although a few
days ago two were not burdensome. Late in the afternoon
we encamped opposite to the Baldpated prairie, after a journey
of seventy-three miles.

Wednesday, 10. We again set out early and the wind
being moderate, though still ahead, we came sixty-five
miles to a sandbar, a short distance above the grand Nemaha.
In the course of the day we met a trader, with three
men, on his way to the Pawnee Loups or Wolf Pawnees, on
the Platte. Soon after another boat passed us with seven
men from St. Louis, bound to the Mahas. With both of these
trading parties we had some conversation, but our anxiety to
go on would not suffer us to remain long with them. The
Indians, and particularly the squaws and children are weary
of the long journey, and we are not less desirous of seeing
our country and friends. We saw on the shore, deer, rackoons,
and turkies.

Thursday, 11. A high wind from the northwest detained
us till after sunrise, when we proceeded slowly; for as the
river is rapid and narrow, as well as more crowded with
sandbars and timber than above, much caution is necessary

in avoiding these obstacles, particularly in the present
low state of the water. The Nemaha seems less wide
than when we saw it before, and Wolf river has scarcely
any water. In the afternoon we halted above the Nadowa
to hunt, and killed two deer; after which we went on to
a small island, forty miles from our last night's encampment.
Here we were no longer annoyed by musquetoes,
which do not seem to frequent this part of the river; and after
having been persecuted with these insects during the whole
route from the falls, it is a most agreeable exemption. Their
noise was very agreeably changed for that of the common
wolves, which were howling in different directions, and the
prairie wolves, whose barking resembles precisely that of
the common cur dog.

Friday, 12. After a thick fog and a heavy dew we set out
by sunrise, and at the distance of seven miles met two periogues,
one of them bound to the Platte, for the purpose of
trading with the Pawnees, the other on a trapping expedition
to the neighbourhood of the Mahas. Soon after we met
the trading party under Mr. M'Clellan; and with them was
Mr. Gravelines, the interpreter, whom we had sent with a
Ricara chief to the United States. The chief had unfortunately
died at Washington, and Gravelines was now on his
way to the Ricaras, with a speech from the president, and
the presents which had been made to the chief. He had also
directions to instruct the Ricaras in agriculture. He was
accompanied on this mission by old Mr. Durion, our former
Sioux interpreter, whose object was to procure, by his influence,
a safe passage for the Ricara presents through the
bands of Sioux, and also to engage some of the Sioux chiefs,
not exceeding six, to visit Washington. Both of them were
instructed to inquire particularly after the fate of our party,
no intelligence having been received from us during a long
time. We authorised Mr. Durion to invite ten or twelve
Sioux chiefs to accompany him, particularly the Yanktons,
whom we had found well disposed towards our country. The

afternoon being wet, we determined to remain with Mr.
M'Clellan during the night: and therefore, after sending on
five hunters ahead, spent the evening in inquiries after occurrences
in the United States during our absence; and by
eight o'clock next morning.

Saturday, 13. overtook the hunters; but they had killed nothing.
The wind being now too high to proceed safely through
timber stuck in every part of the channel, we landed, and
sent the small canoes ahead to hunt. Towards evening we
overtook them, and encamped, not being able to advance
more than eighteen miles. The weather was very warm,
and the rushes in the bottoms so high and thick that we
could scarcely hunt, but were fortunate enough to obtain
four deer and a turkey, which, with the hooting owl, the
common buzzard, crow, and hawk, were the only game we
saw. Among the timber is the cottonwood, sycamore, ash,
mulberry, pappaw, walnut, hickory, prickly ash, several
species of elm, intermixed with great quantities of grapevines,
and three kinds of peas.

Sunday, 14. We resumed our journey, and this being a part
of the river to which the Kanzas resort, in order to rob the
boats of traders, we held ourselves in readiness to fire upon
any Indians who should offer us the slightest indignity, as
we no longer needed their friendship, and found that a tone
of firmness and decision is the best possible method of making
proper impression on these freebooters. We, however,
did not encounter any of them; but just below the old Kanzas
village met three trading boats from St. Louis, on their
way to the Yanktons and Mahas. After leaving them we
saw a number of deer, of which we killed five, and encamped
on an island, fifty-three miles from our encampment of last
evening.

Monday, 15. A strong breeze ahead prevented us from
advancing more than forty-nine miles to the neighbourhood
of Haycabin creek. The river Kanzas is very low at this
time. About a mile below it we landed to view the situation

of a high hill, which has many advantages for a trading
house or fort; while on the shore we gathered great quantities
of pappaws, and shot an elk. The low grounds are now
delightful, and the whole country exhibits a rich appearance;
but the weather is oppressively warm, and descending
as rapidly as we do from a cool open country, between the
latitude of 46 and 49°, in which we have been for nearly two
years, to the wooded plains in 38 and 39°, the heat would
be almost insufferable were it not for the constant winds
from the south and southeast.

Tuesday, 16. We set out at an early hour, but the weather
soon became so warm that the men rowed but little. In
the course of the day we met two trading parties, on their
way to the Pawnees and Mahas, and after making fifty-two
miles, remained on an island till next morning,

Wednesday, 17, when we passed in safety the island of
the Little Osage village. This place is considered by the
navigators of the Missouri, as the most dangerous part of it,
the whole water being compressed, for two miles, within a
narrow channel, crowded with timber, into which the violence
of the current is constantly washing the banks. At the
distance of thirty miles we met a captain M'Clellan, lately
of the United States' army, with whom we encamped. He
informed us that the general opinion in the United States
was that we were lost; the last accounts which had been
heard of us being from the Mandan villages. Captain
M'Clellan is on his way to attempt a new trade with the Indians.
His plan is to establish himself on the Platte, and
after trading with the Pawnees and Ottoes, prevail on some
of their chiefs to accompany him to Santa Fee, where he
hopes to obtain permission to exchange his merchandise
for gold and silver, which is there in abundance. If this be
granted, he can transport his goods on mules and horses
from the Platte to some part of Louisiana, convenient to
the Spanish settlements, where he may be met by the traders
from New Mexico.

Thursday, 18. We parted with captain M'Clellan, and
within a few miles passed the Grand river, below which we
overtook the hunters, who had been sent forward yesterday
afternoon. They had not been able to kill any thing, nor
did we see any game except one bear and three turkies, so
that our whole stock of provisions is one biscuit for each
person; but as there is an abundance of pappaws, the men
are perfectly contented. The current of the river is more
gentle than it was when we ascended, the water being lower
though still rapid in places where it is confined. We continued
to pass through a very fine country, for fifty-two
miles, when we encamped nearly opposite to Mine river. The
next morning,

Friday, 19, we worked our oars all day, without taking
time to hunt, or even landing, except once to gather
pappaws; and at eight o'clock reached the entrance of the
Osage river, a distance of seventy-two miles. Several of the
party have been for a day or two attacked with a soreness
in the eyes; the eye-ball being very much swelled and the
lid appearing as if burnt by the sun, and extremely painful,
particularly when exposed to the light. Three of the men are
so much affected by it, as to be unable to row. We therefore
turned one of the boats adrift, and distributed the men
among the other canoes, when we set out a little before daybreak,

Saturday, 20. The Osage is at this time low, and discharges
but a very small quantity of water. Near the
mouth of Gasconade, where we arrived at noon, we met five
Frenchmen on their way to the Great Osage village. As
we moved along rapidly, we saw on the banks some cows
feeding, and the whole party almost involuntarily raised a
shout of joy at seeing this image of civilization and domestic
life.

Soon after we reached the little French village of Lacharette,
which we saluted with a discharge of four guns,
and three hearty cheers. We then landed, and were received

with kindness by the inhabitants, as well as some traders
from Canada, who were going to traffic with the Osages
and Ottoes. They were all equally surprised and pleased
at our arrival, for they had long since abandoned all
hopes of ever seeing us return.

These Canadians have boats prepared for the navigation
of the Missouri, which seem better calculated for the
purpose than those in any other form. They are in the
shape of batteaux, about thirty feet long, and eight wide;
the bow and stern pointed, the bottom flat, and carrying
six oars only, and their chief advantage is their width and
flatness, which saves them from the danger of rolling sands.

Having come sixty-eight miles, and the weather threatening
to be bad, we remained at La Charette till the next
morning,

Sunday, 21, when we proceeded, and as several settlements
have been made during our absence, were refreshed
with the sight of men and cattle along the banks. We also
passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo Indians, going on a
hunting excursion. At length, after coming forty-eight
miles, we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the village
of St. Charles, and on landing were treated with the greatest
hospitality and kindness by all the inhabitants of that
place. Their civility detained us till ten o'clock the next
morning,

Monday, 22, when the rain having ceased, we set out
for Coldwater creek, about three miles from the mouth of
the Missouri, where we found a cantonment of troops of
the United States, with whom we passed the day, and then,

Tuesday, 23, descended to the Mississippi, and round to
St. Louis, where we arrived at twelve o'clock, and having
fired a salute went on shore and received the heartiest and
most hospitable welcome from the whole village.