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CHAPTER XI.

The party still pursue their route towards the Kooskooskee on horseback
with Wollawollah guides—character of the country—the quamash and other
flowering shrubs in bloom—the party reach the Kinnooenim creek—they
meet with an old acquaintance called the Bighorn Indian—they arrive at the
mouth of the Kooskooskee—singular custom among the Chopunnish women—
difficulty of purchasing provisions from the natives, and the new resort of
the party to obtain them—the Chopunnish style of architecture—captain
Clarke turns physician, and performs several experiments with success upon
the natives, which they reward—an instance of their honesty—the distress
of the Indians for want of provisions during the winter—the party finally
meet the Twistedhair, to whom was entrusted their horses during their journey
down—the quarrel between that chief and another of his nation, on the
subject of his horses—the causes of this controversy stated at large—the two
chiefs reconciled by the interference of the party, and the horses restored—
extraordinary instance of Indian hospitality towards strangers—a council held
with the Chopunnish, and the object of the expedition explained in a very
circuitous route of explanation—the party again perform medical cures—the
answer of the Chopunnish to the speech delivered at the council, confirmed
by a singular ceremony of acquiescence—they promise faithfully to follow
the advice of their visiters.

Friday, May 2. We despatched two hunters ahead; but
the horse we had yesterday purchased from the Chopunnish,
although closely hobbled, contrived to break loose in
the night, and went back to rejoin his companions. He was
however overtaken and brought to us about one o'clock, and
we then set forward. For three miles we followed a hilly
road on the north side of the creek, opposite to a wide bottom,
where a branch falls in from the southwest mountains,
which, though covered with snow, are about twenty-five
miles distant, and do not appear high. We then entered an
extensive level bottom, with about fifty acres of land well
covered with pine near the creek, and the long-leafed pine


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occasionally on the sides of the hills along its banks. After
crossing the creek at the distance of seven miles from our
camp, we repassed it seven miles further, near the junction
of one of its branches from the northeast. The main stream
here bears to the south, towards the mountains where it
rises, and its bottoms then become narrow, as the hills are
higher. We followed the course of this northeast branch
in a direction N. 45° E. for eight and three quarter miles,
when having made nineteen miles, we halted in a little
bottom on the north side. The creek is here about four
yards wide, and as far as we can perceive, it comes from
the east, but the road here turns from it into the high
open plain. The soil of the country seems to improve
as we advance, and this afternoon we see, in the bottoms,
an abundance of quamash now in bloom. We killed
nothing but a duck, though we saw two deer at a distance,
as well as many sandhill crows, curlews, and other birds
common to the prairies, and there is much sign of both beaver
and otter. along the creeks. The three young Wollawollahs
continued with us. During the day we observed
them eating the inner part of the young succulent stem of
a plant very common in the rich lands on the Mississippi,
Ohio and its branches. It is a large coarse plant, with a
ternate leaf, the leaflets of which are three-lobed, and
covered with a woolly pubescence, while the flower and fructification
resemble that of the parsnip. On tasting this
plant, we found it agreeable, and eat heartily of it without
any inconvenience.

Saturday, 3. We set out at an early hour, and crossed
the high plains, which we found more fertile and less sandy
than below; yet, though the grass is taller, there are very
few aromatic shrubs. After pursuing a course N. 25° E. for
twelve miles, we reached the Kinnooenim. This creek rises
in the southwest mountains, and though only twelve yards
wide, discharges a considerable body of water into Lewis's
river, a few miles above the narrows. Its bed is pebbled,


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its banks low, and the hills near its sides high and rugged;
but in its narrow bottoms are found some cottonwood, willow,
and the underbrush, which grows equally on the east
branch of the Wollawollah. After dining at the Kinnooenim,
we resumed our journey over the high plains, in the
direction of N. 45° E. and reached, at the distance of three
miles, a small branch of that creek about five yards wide.
The lands in its neighbourhood are composed of a dark rich
loam; its hill sides, like those of the Kinnooenim, are high,
its bottoms narrow, and possess but little timber. It increased
however in quantity as we advanced along the north
side of the creek for eleven miles. At that distance we were
agreeably surprised by the appearance of Weahkoonut, or
the Indian whom we had called the Bighorn, from the circumstance
of his wearing a horn of that animal, suspended
from his left arm. He had gone down with us last year
along Lewis's river, and was highly serviceable in preparing
the minds of the natives for our reception. He is, moreover,
the first chief of a large band of Chopunnish; and hearing
that we were on our return, he had come with ten of his
warriors to meet us. He now turned back with us, and we
continued up the bottoms of the creek for two miles, till the
road began to leave the creek, and cross the hill to the
plains. We therefore encamped for the night in a grove
of cottonwood, after we had made a disagreeable journey of
twenty-eight miles. During the greater part of the day the
air was keen and cold, and it alternately rained, hailed and
snowed; but, though the wind blew with great violence, it
was fortunately from the southwest, and on our backs. We
had consumed at dinner the last of our dried meat, and
nearly all that was left of the dogs; so that we supped very
scantily on the remainder, and had nothing for to-morrow.
Weahkoonut, however, assured us that there was a house on
the river at no great distance, where we might supply ourselves
with provisions. We now missed our guide and the
Wollawollahs, who left, us abruptly this morning, and never

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returned. After a disagreeable night, we collected our
horses at an early hour,

Sunday, 4, and proceeded with a continuation of the same
weather. We are now nearer to the southwest mountains,
which appear to become lower as they advance towards the
northeast. We followed the road over the plains, north 60°
east, for four miles to a ravine, where was the source of a
small creek, down the hilly and rocky sides of which we
proceeded for eight miles to its entrance into Lewis's river,
about seven miles and a half above the mouth of the Kooskooskee.
Near this place we found the house of which
Weahkoonut had mentioned, and where we now halted for
breakfast. It contained six families, but so miserably poor
that all we could obtain from them were two lean dogs and
a few large cakes of half cured bread, made of a root resembling
the sweet potatoe, of all which we contrived to
form a kind of soup. The soil of the plain is good, but it
has no timber. The range of southwest mountains is about
fifteen miles above us, but continues to lower, and is still
covered with snow to its base. After giving a passage to
Lewis's river, near their northeastern extremity, they terminate
in a high level plain between that river and the
Kooskooskee. The salmon not having yet called them to
the rivers, the greater part of the Chopunnish are now dispersed
in villages through this plain, for the purpose of collecting
quamash and cows, which here grow in great abundance,
the soil being extremely fertile, and in many places
covered with the long-leafed pine, the larch, and balsam-fir,
which contribute to render it less thirsty than the open unsheltered
plains. After our repast we continued our route
along the west side of the river, where as well as on the opposite
shore, the high hills approach it closely, till at the
distance of three miles we halted opposite to two houses:
the inhabitants consisted of five families of Chopunnish,
among whom were Tetoh, or Sky, the younger of the two
chiefs who accompanied us in the autumn to the great falls


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of the Columbia, and also our old pilot who had conducted
us down the river to the Columbia. They both advised us
to cross here, and ascend the Kooskooskee on the northeast
side, this being the shortest and best route to the forks of
that river, where we should find the Twistedhair, in whose
charge we left our horses, and to which place they promised
to show us the way. We did not hesitate to accept this
offer, and therefore crossed with the assistance of three canoes;
but as the night was coming on, we purchased a little
wood and some roots of cows, and encamped, though we had
made only fifteen miles to-day. The evening proved cold and
disagreeable, and the natives crowded round our fire in such
numbers that we could scarcely cook or even keep ourselves
warm. At these houses of Chopunnish we observed a small
hut with a single fire, which we are informed is appropriated
for women who are undergoing the operation of the
menses; there they are obliged to retreat; the men are not
permitted to approach within a certain distance of them,
and when any thing is to be conveyed to those deserted females,
the person throws it to them forty or fifty paces off,
and then retires. It is singular, indeed, that amongst the
nations of the wilderness, there should be found customs
and rites so nearly resembling those of the Jews. It is
scarcely necessary to allude more particularly to the uncleanness
of Jewish females and the rites of purification.

Monday 5. We collected our horses, and at seven o'clock
set forward alone; for Weahkoonut, whose people resided
above on the west side of Lewis's river, continued his route
homeward when we crossed to the huts. Our road was
across the plains for four and a half miles, to the entrance
of the Kooskooskee. We then proceeded up that river, and
at five miles reached a large mat house, but could not procure
any provisions from the inhabitants, but on reaching
another three miles beyond, we were surprised at the liberality
of an Indian, who gave captain Clarke a very elegant


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gray mare, for which, all he requested was a phial of eye-water.
Last autumn, while we were encamped at the mouth
of the Chopunnish river, a man who complained of a pain
in his knee and thigh, was brought to us in hopes of receiving
relief. The man was to appearance recovered from
his disorder, though he had not walked for some time. But
that we might not disappoint them, captain Clarke, with
much ceremony, washed and rubbed his sore limb, and gave
him some volatile liniment to continue the operation, which
either caused, or rather did not prevent his recovery. The
man gratefully circulated our praises, and our fame as physicians
was increased by the efficacy of some eye-water
which we gave them at the same time. We are by no means
displeased at this new resource for obtaining subsistence,
as they will give us no provisions without merchandise, and
our stock is now very much reduced: we cautiously abstain
from giving them any but harmless medicines, and as we
cannot possibly do harm, our prescriptions, though unsanctioned
by the faculty, may be useful, and are entitled to some
remuneration. Four miles beyond this house we came to
another large one, containing ten families, where we halted,
and made our dinner on two dogs and a small quantity of
roots, which we did not procure without much difficulty.
Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, and looking
with great derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved
puppy almost into captain Lewis's plate, laughing
heartily at the humour of it. Captain Lewis took up the
animal and flung it with great force into the fellow's face,
and seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if he
dared to repeat such insolence. He immediately withdrew,
apparently much mortified, and we continued our repast of
dog very quietly. Here we met our old Chopunnish guide,
with his family, and soon afterwards one of our horses,
which had been separated from the rest in the charge of the
Twistedhair, and been in this neighbourhood for several
weeks, was caught and restored to us. After dinner we proceeded

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to the entrance of Colter's creek, at the distance of
four miles, and having made twenty and a half miles, encamped
on the lower side of it. Colter's creek rises not far
from the Rocky mountains, and passing in the greater part
of its course through a country well supplied with pine, discharges
a large body of water. It is about twenty-five
yards wide, with a pebbled bed and low banks. At a little
distance from us are two Chopunnish houses, one of which
contains eight families, and the other, which is by much the
largest we have ever seen, inhabited by at least thirty. It
is rather a kind of shed, built like all the other huts, of
straw and mats in the form of the roof of a house, one hundred
and fifty-six feet long, and about fifteen wide, closed at
the ends, and having a number of doors on each side. The
vast interior is without partitions, but the fire of each family
is kindled in a row along the middle of the building, and
about ten feet apart. This village is the residence of one of
the principal chiefs of the nation, who is called Neeshnepahkeook,
or Cutnose, from the circumstance of having his nose
cut from the stroke of a lance in battle with the Snake Indians.
We gave him a small medal, but though he is a
great chief, his influence among his own people does not
seem to be considerable, and his countenance possesses very
little intelligence. We arrived very hungry and weary, but
could not purchase any provisions, except a small quantity
of the roots and bread of the cows. They had, however,
heard of our medical skill, and made many applications for
assistance, but we refused to do any thing unless they gave
us either dogs or horses to eat. We had soon nearly fifty
patients. A chief brought his wife with an abcess on her
back, and promised to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if
we would relieve her. Captain Clarke, therefore, opened
the abcess, introduced a tent, and dressed it with basilicon.
We prepared also, and distributed some doses of the flour
of sulphur and cream of tarter, with directions for its use.
For these we obtained several dogs, but too poor for use,

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and we therefore postponed our medical operations till the
morning. In the meantime a number of Indians, beside the
residents of the village, gathered about us or encamped in
the woody bottom of the creek.

In the evening, we learnt by means of a Snake Indian,
who happens to be at this place, that one of the old men has
been endeavouring to excite prejudices against us, by observing
that he thought we were bad men, and came here,
most probably, for the purpose of killing them. In order to
remove such impressions, we made a speech, in which, by
means of the Snake Indian, we told them our country and
all the purposes of our visit. While we were engaged in this
occupation, we were joined by Weahkoonut, who assisted us
in effacing all unfavourable impressions from the minds of
the Indians. The following morning,

Tuesday 6, our practice became more valuable. The
woman declared that she had slept better than at any time
since her illness. She was therefore dressed a second time,
and her husband, according to promise, brought us a horse,
which we immediately killed. Besides this woman, we had
crowds of other applicants, chiefly afflicted with sore eyes,
and after administering to them for several hours, found
ourselves once more in possession of a plentiful meal, for
the inhabitants began to be more accommodating, and one
of them even gave us a horse for our remedies to his daughter,
a little girl, who was afflicted with the rheumatism. We
moreover, exchanged one of our horses with Weahkoonut, by
the addition of a small flag, which procured us an excellent
sorrel horse. We here found three men, of a nation
called Skeetsomish, who reside at the falls of a large
river, emptying itself into the north side of the Columbia.
This river takes its rise from a large lake in the mountains,
at no great distance from the falls where these natives
live. We shall designate this river, hereafter, by
the name of Clarke's river, as we do not know its Indian
appellation, and we are the first whites who have


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ever visited its principal branches; for the Great Lake river
mentioned by Mr. Fidler, if at all connected with Clarke's
river, must be a very inconsiderable branch. To this river,
moreover, which we have hitherto called Clarke's river,
which rises in the southwest mountains, we restored
the name of Towahnahiooks, the name by which it is known
to the Eneeshurs. In dress and appearance these Skeetsomish
were not to be distinguished from the Chopunnish,
but their language is entirely different, a circumstance
which we did not learn till their departure, when it was too
late to procure from them a vocabulary.

About two o'clock we collected our horses and set out,
accompanied by Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men, and
a man who said he was the brother of the Twistedhair. At
four miles we came to a single house of three families, but
we could not procure provisions of any kind; and five miles
further we halted for the night near another house, built like
the rest, of sticks, mats and dried hay, and containing six
families. It was now so difficult to procure any thing to eat
that our chief dependence was on the horse which we received
yesterday for medicine; but to our great disappointment,
he broke the rope by which he was confined, made
his escape, and left us supperless in the rain. The next
morning,

Wednesday 7, Weahkoonut and his party left us, and we
proceeded up the river with the brother of the Twistedhair
as a guide. The Kooskooskee is now rising fast, the water
is clear and cold, and as all the socks and shoals are now
covered, the navigation is safe, notwithstanding the rapidity
of the current. The timber begins about the neighbourhood
of Colter's creek, and consists chiefly of long-leafed
pine. After going four miles, we reached a house of six
families, below the entrance of a small creek, where our
guide advised us to cross the river, as the route was better,
and the game more abundant near the month of the Chopunnish.


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We therefore unloaded, and by means of a single canoe,
passed to the south side in about four hours, during
which time we dined. An Indian of one of the houses now
brought two canisters of powder, which his dog had discovered
under ground in a bottom some miles above. We
immediately knew them to be the same we had buried last
autumn, and as he had kept them safely, and had honesty
enough to return them, we rewarded him inadequately, but
as well as we could, with a steel for striking fire. We set
out at three o'clock, and pursued a difficult and stony road
for two miles, when we left the river and ascended the hills
on the right, which begin to resemble mountains. But when
we reached the heights, we saw before us a beautiful level
country, partially ornamented with the long-leafed pine, and
supplied with an excellent pasture of thick grass, and a variety
of herbaceous plants, the abundant productions of a
dark rich soil. In many parts of the plain, the earth is
thrown up into little mounds, by some animal, whose habits
most resemble those of the salamander; but although these
tracks are scattered over all the plains from the Mississippi
to the Pacific, we have never yet been able to obtain
a sight of the animal itself.

As we entered the plain Neeshnepahkee, the Cutnose,
overtook us, and after accompanying us a few miles, turned
to the right to visit some of his people, who were now gathering
roots in the plain. Having crossed the plain a little
to the south of east, we descended a long steep hill, at the
distance of five miles, to a creek six yards wide, which empties
itself into the Kooskooskee. We ascended this little
stream for a mile, and encamped at an Indian establishment
of six houses, which seem to have been recently evacuated.
Here we were joined by Neeshnepahkee, and the Shoshonee
who had interpreted for us on the fifth.

From the plain we observed that the spurs of the Rocky
mountains are still perfectly covered with snow, which the
Indians inform us is so deep that we shall not be able to pass


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before the next full moon, that is, the first of June: though
others place the time for crossing at a still greater distance.
To us, who are desirous of reaching the plains of the Missouri,
if for no other reason, for the purpose of enjoying a
good meal, this intelligence was by no means welcome, and
gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter's
creek, which formed our supper, part of which had already
been our dinner. Observing, however, some deer, and a great
appearance of more, we determined to make an attempt to
get some of them, and therefore, after a cold night's rest,

Thursday, 8, most of the hunters set out at daylight.
By eleven o'clock they all returned, with four deer, and a
duck of an uncommon kind, which, with the remains of our
horse, formed a stock of provisions such as we had not lately
possessed. Without our facilities of procuring subsistence
with guns, the natives of this country must often suffer
very severely. During last winter they were so much
distressed for food, that they were obliged to boil and eat
the moss growing on the pine trees. At the same period
they cut down nearly all the long-leafed pines, which we observed
on the ground, for the purpose of collecting its seed,
which resemble in size and shape that of the large sunflower,
and when roasted or boiled, is nutritious and not disagreeable
to the taste. At the present season they peal
this pine tree, and eat the inner and succulent bark. In the
creek near us, they also procure trout by means of a falling
trap, constructed on the same plan with those common to
the United States. We gave Neeshnepahkee and his people
some of our game and horse-beef, besides the entrails of
the deer, and four fawns which we found inside of two of them.
They did not eat any of it perfectly raw, but the entrails
had very little cooking, and the fawns were boiled whole,
and the hide, hair, and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee
was offended at not having as much venison as he wished,
and refused to interpret; but as we took no notice of him,
he became very officious in the course of a few hours, and


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made many efforts to reinstate himself in our favour. The
mother of the Twistedhair, and Neeshnepahkeeook now
drew a sketch, which we preserved, of all the waters west
of the Rocky mountains. They make the main southern
branch of Lewis's river, much more extensive than the other,
and place a great number of Shoshonce villages on its western
side. Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon
we set out, in company with Neeshnepahkeeook and other
Indians, the brother of the Twistedhair having left us. Our
route was up a high steep hill to a level plain, with little
wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the
river, for four miles, when we met the Twistedhair and six
of his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and
a part of our saddles, last autumn, and we therefore formed
very unfavourable conjectures on finding that he received
us with great coldness. Shortly after he began to speak in
a very loud, angry manner, and was answered by Neeshnepahkeeook.
We now discovered that a violent quarrel had
arisen between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterwards
understood, of our horses. But as we could not learn the
cause, and were desirous of terminating the dispute, we interposed,
and told them we should go on to the first water
and encamp. We therefore set out, followed by all the Indians,
and having reached, at two miles distance, a small
stream, running to the right, we encamped with the two
chiefs and their little bands, forming separate camps, at a
distance from each other. They all appeared to be in an ill
humour, and as we had already heard reports that the Indians
had discovered and carried off our saddles, and that the
horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy,
lest there should be too much foundation for the report. We
were therefore anxious to reconcile the two chiefs as soon
as possible, and desired the Shoshonee to interpret for us,
while we attempted a mediation; but he peremptorily refused
to speak a word: he observed that it was a quarrel between
the two chiefs, and he had therefore no right to interfere;

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nor could all our representations, that by merely repeating
what we said, he could not possibly be considered as
meddling between the chiefs, induce him to take any part
in it. Soon afterwards Drewyer returned from hunting, and
was sent to invite the Twistedhair to come and smoke with
us. He accepted the invitation, and as we were smoking
the pipe over our fire, he informed us, that according to his
promise, on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had
collected our horses and taken charge of them, as soon as
he had reached home. But about this time Neeshnepahkeeooks
and Tunnachemootoolt (the Brokenarm) who, as
we passed, had been on a war party against the Shoshonees
on the south branch of Lewis's river, returned, and becoming
jealous of him, because the horses had been confided to his
care, were constantly quarrelling with him. At length, being
an old man, and unwilling to live in perpetual dispute
with the two chiefs, he had given up the care of the horses,
which had consequently become very much scattered. The
greater part of them were, however, still in this neighbourhood;
some in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee,
and three or four at the village of the Brokenarm,
about half a day's march higher up the river. He added,
that on the rise of the river in the spring, the earth had
fallen from the door of the cache and exposed the saddles,
some of which had probably been lost; but as soon as he was
acquainted with the situation of them, he had them buried in
another deposit, where they now are. He now promised that
if we would stay to-morrow at his house, a few miles from
this place, he would collect such of the horses as were in the
neighbourhood, and send his young men for those in the forks
over the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us to visit the
Brokenarm, who was a chief of great eminence, and that he
would himself guide us to his dwelling. We told him that
we meant to follow his advice in every respect; that we had
confided our horses to his charge, and expected that he would
deliver them to us, on which we should willingly pay him the

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two guns and ammunition, as we had promised. With this
he seemed very much pleased, and declared that he would
use every exertion to restore our horses. We now sent for
the Cutnose, and after smoking for some time, took occasion
to express to the two chiefs, our regret at seeing a misunderstanding
between them. Neeshnepahkeeook told us
that the Twistedhair was a bad old man, and wore two faces;
for instead of taking care of our horses, he had suffered his
young men to hunt with them, so that they had been very
much injured, and that it was for this reason that the Brokenarm
and himself had forbidden him to use them. The
Twistedhair made no reply to this speech, after which we
told Neeshnepahkeeook of our arrangement for to-morrow.
He appeared very well satisfied, and said that he would himself
go with us to the Brokenarm, who expected that we would
see him, and who had two bad horses for us, an expression
by which was meant that he intended making us a present
of two valuable horses. That chief, he also informed us,
had been apprised of our want of provisions, and sent four
young men to meet us with a supply; but having taken a different
road, they had missed us. After this interview we
retired to rest at a late hour, and in the morning,

Friday 9, after sending out several hunters, we proceeded
through a level rich country, similar to that of yesterday,
for six miles, when we reached the house of the Twistedhair,
situated near some larch trees, and a few bushes of balsam
fir. It was built in the usual form of sticks, mats, and dried
hay; and although it contained no more than two fires
and twelve persons, was provided with the customary appendage
of a small hut, to which females in certain situations
were to retreat. As soon as we halted at this place, we
went with the Twistedhair to the spot where he had buried
our saddles, and two other young Indians were despatched
after the horses. Our hunters joined us with nothing but
a few pheasants, the only deer which they killed being lost
in the river. We therefore dined on soup, made of the roots


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of cows, which we purchased of the Indians. Late in the
afternoon, the Twistedhair returned with about half the
saddles we had left in the autumn, and some powder and
lead which was buried at the same place. Soon after, the
Indians brought us twenty-one of our horses, the greater
part of whom were in excellent order, though some had not
yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs.
We were however very glad to procure them in any condition.
Several Indians came down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt,
and passed the night with us. The Cutnose
and Twistedhair seem now perfectly reconciled, for they
both slept in the house of the latter. The man who had imposed
himself upon us as a brother of the Twistedhair, also
came and renewed his advances, but we now found that he
was an impertinent proud fellow, of no respectability in the
nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to cultivate his
intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became
very uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and
the rain and hail which began about seven o'clock, changed
in about two hours to a heavy fall of snow, which continued
till after six o'clock.

Saturday, 10, the next morning, when it ceased, after
covering the ground eight inches deep, and leaving the air
keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, and after a
scanty breakfast of roots, set out on a course S. 35° E.
across the plains, the soil of which being covered with snow,
we could only judge from observing that near the ravines,
where it had melted, the mud was deep, black, and well
supplied with quamash. The road was very slippery, and the
snow stuck to the horses' feet and made them slip down very
frequently. After going about sixteen miles, we came to
the hills of Commearp creek, which are six hundred feet in
height, but the tops of which only are covered with snow,
the lower parts as well as the bottoms of the creek having


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had nothing but rain while it snowed in the high plains. On
descending these hills to the creek, we reached about four
o'clock, the house of Tunnachemootoolt, where was displayed
the flag which we had given him, raised on a staff: under
this we were received with due form, and then conducted a
short distance to a good spot for an encampment, on Commearp
creek. We soon collected the men of consideration,
and after smoking, explained how destitute we were of provisions.
The chief spoke to the people, who immediately
brought about two bushels of dried quamash roots,
some cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried salmon trout:
we thanked them for this supply, but observed that, not being
accustomed to live on roots alone, we feared that such
diet might make our men sick, and therefore proposed to exchange
one of our good horses, which was rather poor, for
one that was fatter, and which we might kill. The hospitality
of the chief was offended at the idea of an exchange;
he observed that his people had an abundance of young horses,
and that if we were disposed to use that food, we might
have as many as we wanted. Accordingly, they soon
gave us two fat young horses, without asking any thing in
return, an act of liberal hospitality much greater than any
we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky mountains, if it
be not in fact the only really hospitable treatment we have
received in this part of the world. We killed one of the
horses, and then telling the natives that we were fatigued
and hungry, and that as soon as we were refreshed, we
would communicate freely with them, began to prepare our
repast. During this time, a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp,
came from his village about six miles distant, with a
party of fifty men, for the purpose of visiting us. We invited
him into our circle, and he alighted and smoked
with us, while his retinue, who had five elegant horses, continued
mounted at a short distance. While this was going
on, the chief had a large leathern tent spread for us,
and desired that we would make that our home whilst we

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remained at his village. We removed there, and having made
a fire, and cooked a supper of horse-beef and roots, collected
all the distinguished men present, and spent the evening in explaining
who we were, the objects of our journey, and giving
answers to their inquiries. To each of the chiefs, Tunnachemootoolt,
and Hohastillpilp, we gave a small medal, explaining
their use and importance, as honorary distinctions
both among the whites and red men. Our men are delighted
at once more having made a hearty meal. They have
generally been in the habit of crowding the houses of the
Indians, and endeavouring to purchase provisions on the best
terms they could; for the inhospitality of the country was
such, that in the extreme of hunger they were often obliged
to treat the natives with but little ceremony, but this the
Twistedhair had told us was disagreeable. Finding that
these people are so kind and liberal, we ordered our men to
treat them with great respect and not to throng round their
fires, so that they now agree perfectly well together. After
our council, the Indians felt no disposition to retire, and
our tent was crowded with them all night. The next
morning,

Sunday 11, we arose early and breakfasted again on
horse-flesh. This village of Tunnachemootoolt, is in fact only
a single house, one hundred and fifty feet long, built after
the Chopunnish fashion, with sticks, straw, and dried grass.
It contains twenty-four fires, about double that number of
families, and might perhaps muster one hundred fighting
men. The usual outhouse, or retiring hut for females, is not
omitted. Their chief subsistence is roots, and the noise
made by the women in pounding them, gives the hearer the
idea of a nail factory. Yet, notwithstanding so many families
are crowded together, the Chopunnish are much more
cleanly in their persons and habitations, than any people
we have met since we left the Ottoes on the river Platte.
In the course of the morning, a chief named Yoompahkatim,
a stout good looking man, of about forty years of age,


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who had lost his left eye, arrived from his village on the
south side of Lewis's river. We gave him a small medal,
and finding that there were now present the principal chiefs
of the Chopunnish nation, Tunnachemootoolt (the Brokenarm)
Neeshnepahkeeook, Yoompahkatim, and Hohastilpilp,
whose rank is in the order they are mentioned, we thought
this a favourable moment to explain to them the intentions
of our government. We therefore collected the chiefs and
warriors, and having drawn a map of the relative situation
of our country, on a mat, with a piece of coal, detailed the
nature and power of the American nation, its desire to
preserve harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention
of establishing trading houses for their relief and
support. It was not without difficulty, nor till after nearly
half the day was spent, that we were able to convey all this
information to the Chopunnish, much of which might have
been lost or distorted, in its circuitous route through a variety
of languages; for in the first place, we spoke in English
to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chaboneau;
he interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree
language, and she then put it into Shoshonee, and the young
Shoshonee prisoner explained it to the Chopunnish in their
own dialect. At last we succeeded in communicating the
impression they wished, and then adjourned the council; after
which we amused them by showing the wonders of the
compass, the spy-glass, the magnet, the watch and air-gun,
each of which attracted its share of admiration. They said
that after we had left the Minnetarees last autumn, three
young Chopunnish had gone over to that nation, who had
mentioned our visit and the extraordinary articles we had
with us, but they placed no confidence in it until now.
Among other persons present, was a youth, son of the Chopunnish
chief, of much consideration, killed not long since
by the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie. As soon as the
council was over, he brought a very fine mare with a colt,
and begged us to accept them as a proof that he meant to

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pursue our advice, for he had opened his ears to our councils,
which had made his heart glad. We now resumed our
medical labours, and had a number of patients afflicted with
scrophula, rheumatism and sore eyes, to all which we administered
very cheerfully as far as our skill and supplies
of medicine would permit. We also visited a chief who has
for three years past so completely lost the use of his limbs,
that he lies like a perfect corpse in whatever position he is
placed, yet he eats heartily, digests his food very well, has
a regular pulse, and retains his flesh; in short, were he not
somewhat pale from lying so long out of the sun, he
might be mistaken for a man in perfect health. This disease
does not seem to be common; indeed, we have seen only
three cases of it among the Chopunnish, who alone are afflicted
with it. The scrophulous disorders we may readily
conjecture to originate in the long confinement to vegetable
diet; which may perhaps also increase the soreness of the
eyes; but this strange disorder baffles at once our curiosity
and our skill. Our assistance was again demanded early the
next morning,

Monday 12, by a crowd of Indians, to whom we gave eye-water.
Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council
among themselves, to decide on the answer to our speech;
and the result was, as we were informed, that they confided
in what we had told them, and resolved to follow our advice.
This resolution once made, the principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt,
took a quantity of flour of the roots of cows, and
going round to all the kettles and baskets, in which his people
were cooking, thickened the soup into a kind of mush.
He then began a harangue, making known the result of
the deliberations among the chiefs, and after exhorting
them to unanimity, concluded by an invitation to all who
agreed to the proceedings of the council, to come and eat,
while those who would not abide by the decision of the chiefs
were requested to show their dissent by not partaking in
the feast. During this animated harangue, the women,


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who were probably uneasy at the prospect of forming this
new connexion with strangers, tore their hair, and wrung their
hands with the greatest appearance of distress. But the concluding
appeal of the orator effectually stopped the mouths
of every malcontent, and the proceedings were ratified,
and the mush devoured with the most zealous unanimity.
The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us, as
we were seated near our tent, and at their instance, two young
men, one of whom was the son of Tunnachemootoolt, and
the other the youth whose father had been killed by the
Pahkees, presented to each of us a fine horse. We caused
the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a
pound of powder, and fifty balls, and a present of the same
kind to the young men from whom we had received the horses.
They then invited us into the tent, and told us that
they now wished to answer what we had told them yesterday;
but that many of their people were at that moment
waiting in great pain for our medical assistance. It was
therefore agreed that captain Clarke, who is the favourite
physician, should visit the sick, while captain Lewis would
hold the council; which was accordingly opened by an old
man, the father of Hohastilpilp. He began by declaring
that the nation had listened with attention to our advice,
and had only one heart and one tongue in declaring their
determination to follow it. They knew well the advantages
of peace, for they valued the lives of their young men too
much to expose them to the dangers of war; and their desire
to live quietly with their neighbours, had induced them
last summer to send three warriors with a pipe to the Shoshonees,
in the plains of Columbia, south of Lewis's river.
These ministers of peace had been killed by the Shoshonees,
against whom the nation immediately took up arms. They
had met them last winter, and killed forty-two men, with
the loss of only three of their own party; so that having revenged
their deceased brethren, they would no longer make
war on the Shoshonees, but receive them as friends. As to

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going with us to the plains of the Missouri, they would be
very willing to do so, for though the Blackfoot Indians and
the Pahkees had shed much of their blood, they still wished
to live in peace with them. But we had not yet seen either of
these nations, and it would therefore be unsafe for them to
venture, till they were assured of not being attacked by
them. Still, however, some of their young men would accompany
us across the mountains, and if they could effect a
peace with their enemies, the whole nation would go over
to the Missouri in the course of next summer. On our proposal
that one of the chiefs should go with us to the country
of the whites, they had not yet decided, but would let us
know before we left them. But that, at all events, the whites
might calculate on their attachment and their best services,
for though poor, their hearts were good. The snow was,
however, still so deep on the mountains, that we should perish
in attempting the passage, but if we waited till after
the next full moon, the snows would have sufficiently melted
to enable our horses to subsist on the grass. As soon as
this speech was concluded, captain Lewis replied at some
length: with this they appeared highly gratified, and after
smoking the pipe, made us a present of another fat horse for
food. We, in turn, gave the Brokenarm a phial of eye-water,
with directions to wash the eyes of all who should apply
for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it was exhausted,
he seemed very much pleased with our liberality.
To the Twistedhair, who had last night collected six more
horses, we gave a gun, an hundred balls, and two pounds of
powder, and told him he should have the same quantity
when we received the remainder of our horses. In the course
of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh
exchange of small presents put the Indians in excellent humour.
On our expressing a wish to cross the river, and
form a camp, in order to hunt and fish till the snows had
melted, they recommended a position a few miles distant,
and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to cross.

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We invited the Twistedhair to settle near our camp, for he
has several young sons, one of whom we hope to engage
as a guide, and he promised to do so. Having now settled
all their affairs, the Indians divided themselves into two parties,
and began to play the game of hiding a bone, already
described, as common to all the natives of this country, which
they continued playing for beads and other ornaments.