University of Virginia Library

CHAPTER XVI.

Thursday, July 3, 1806. On taking leave of captain
Lewis and the Indians, the other division, consisting of
captain Clarke with fifteen men and fifty horses, set out
through the valley of Clarke's river, along the western
side of which they rode in a southern direction. The
valley is from ten to fifteen miles in width, tolerably level,
and partially covered with the long-leafed and the
pitch pine, with some cottonwood, birch, and sweet willow
on the borders of the streams. Among the herbage are
two species of clover, one the white clover common to the
western parts of the United States, the other much smaller
both in its leaf and blossom than either the red or white
clover, and particularly relished by the horses. After crossing
eight different streams of water, four of which were
small, we halted at the distance of eighteen miles on the upper
side of a large creek, where we let our horses graze, and

after dinner resumed our journey in the same direction we
had pursued during the morning, till at the distance of
eighteen miles further, we encamped on the north side of a
large creek. The valley became more beautiful as we proceeded,
and was diversified by a number of small open
plains, abounding with grass, and a variety of sweet-scented
plants, and watered by ten streams which rush from the
western mountains with considerable velocity. The mountains
themselves are covered with snow about one fifth from
the top, and some snow is still, to be seen on the high points
and in the hollows of the mountains to the eastward. In the
course of our ride we saw a great number of deer, a single
bear, and some of the burrowing squirrels common about
the Quamash flats. The musquetoes too were very troublesome.

Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters
were sent out, and the rest of the party having collected
the horses and breakfasted, we proceeded at seven o'clock
up the valley, which is now contracted to the width of from
eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch pine,
though its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks,
are strewed with large stones. We crossed five creeks of
different sizes, but of great depth, and so rapid, that in passing
the last, several of the horses were driven down the
stream, and some of our baggage wet. Near this river we
saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to be Shoshonees.
Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an early
hour for the purpose of doing honour to the birth-day of our
country's independence. The festival was not very splendid,
for it consisted of a mush made of cows and a saddle of venison,
nor had we any thing to tempt us to prolong it. We
therefore went on till at the distance of a mile we came to
a very large creek, which, like all those in the valley, had an
immense rapidity of descent; and we therefore proceeded
up for some distance, in order to select the most convenient
spot for fording. Even there, however, such was the violence

of the current, that although the water was not higher
than the bellies of the horses, the resistance they made
in passing, caused the stream to rise over their backs and
loads. After passing the creek we inclined to the left, and
soon after struck the road which we had descended last year,
near the spot where we dined on the 7th of September. Along
this road we continued on the west side of Clarke's river,
till at the distance of thirteen miles, during which we passed
three more deep large creeks, we reached its western branch,
where we encamped, and having sent out two hunters, despatched
some men to examine the best ford across the river.
The game of to-day consisted of four deer; though we also
saw a herd of ibex, or bighorn. By daylight the next
morning,

Saturday, July 5, we again examined the fords, and having
discovered what we conceived to be the best, began the
passage at a place where the river is divided by small islands
into six different channels. We, however, crossed them
all without any damage, except wetting some of our provisions
and merchandise; and at the distance of a mile came
to the eastern branch, up which we proceeded about a mile,
till we came into the old road we had descended in the autumn.
It soon led us across the river, which we found had
fallen to the same depth at which we found it last autumn,
and along its eastern bank to the foot of the mountain nearly
opposite Flower creek. Here we halted to let our horses
graze, near a spot where there was still a fire burning and
the tracks of two horses, which we presumed to be Shoshonees;
and having dried all our provisions, proceeded at about
four o'clock, across the mountain into the valley where we
had first seen the Flatheads. We then crossed the river, which
we now perceived took its rise from a high peaked mountain
at about twenty miles to the northeast of the valley,
and then passed up it for two miles, and encamped after a
ride of twenty miles during the day. As soon as we halted
several men were despatched in different directions to examine

the road, and from their report, concluded that the
best path would be one about three miles up the creek. This
is the road travelled by the Ootlashoots, and will certainly
shorten our route two days at least, besides being much better,
as we had been informed by the Indians, than by that
we came last fall.

Sunday, 6. The night was very cold, succeeded by frost
in the morning; and as the horses were much scattered, we
were not able to set out before nine o'clock. We then went
along the creek for three miles, and leaving to the right the
path by which we came last fall, pursued the road taken by
the Ootlashoots, up a gentle ascent to the dividing mountain
which separates the waters of the middle fork of Clarke's
river, from those of Wisdom and Lewis's rivers. On reaching
the other side, we came to Glade creek, down which we
proceeded, crossing it frequently into the glades on each
side, where the timber is small, and in many places destroyed
by fire; where are great quantities of quamash now in
bloom. Throughout the glades are great numbers of holes
made by the whistling or burrowing squirrel; and we killed
a hare of the large mountain species. Along these roads
there are also appearances of old buffaloe paths, and some
old heads of buffaloes; and as these animals have wonderful
sagacity in the choice of their routes, the coincidence of a
buffaloe with an Indian road, was the strongest assurance
that it was the best. In the afternoon we passed along the
hill-side, north of the creek, till, in the course of six miles,
we entered an extensive level plain. Here the tracks of the
Indians scattered so much that we could no longer pursue
it, but Sacajaweah recognised the plain immediately. She
had travelled it often during her childhood, and informed us
that it was the great resort of the Shoshonees, who came for
the purpose of gathering quamash and cows, and of taking
beaver, with which the plain abounded, and that Glade creek
was a branch of Wisdom river, and that on reaching the
higher part of the plain, we should see a gap in the mountains,

on the course to our canoes, and from that gap a high
point of mountain covered with snow. At the distance of
a mile we crossed a large creek from the right, rising, as
well as Fish creek, in a snowy mountain, over which there is
a gap. Soon after, on ascending a rising ground, the country
spreads itself into a beautiful plain, extending north and
south about fifteen miles wide and thirty in length, and surrounded
on all sides by high points of mountains covered
with snow, among which was the gap pointed out by the
squaw, bearing S. 56° E. We had not gone two miles from
the last creek when we were overtaken by a violent storm
of wind, accompanied with hard rain, which lasted an hour
and a half. Having no shelter, we formed a solid column to
protect ourselves from the gust, and then went on five miles
to a small creek, where finding some small timber, we encamped
for the night, and dried ourselves. We here observed
some fresh signs of Indians, who had been gathering quamash.
Our distance was twenty-six miles. In the morning,

Monday, 7, our horses were so much scattered, that although
we sent out hunters in every direction, to range the
country for six or eight miles, nine of them could not be recovered.
They were the most valuable of all our horses,
and so much attached to some of their companions, that it
was difficult to separate them in the day-time. We therefore
presumed that they must have been stolen by some roving
Indians, and accordingly left a party of five men to continue
the pursuit, while the rest went on to the spot where
the canoes had been deposited. Accordingly we set out at
ten o'clock, and pursued a course S. 56° E. across the valley,
which we found to be watered by four large creeks,
with extensive low and miry bottoms; and then reached
Wisdom river, along the northeast side of which we continued,
till at the distance of sixteen miles we came to the
three branches. Near that place we stopped for dinner
at a hot spring situated in the open plain. The bed of the
spring is about fifteen yards in circumference, and composed

of loose, hard, gritty stones, through which the water
boils in great quantities. It is slightly impregnated with sulphur,
and so hot that a piece of meat about the size of three
fingers, was completely done in twenty-five minutes. After
dinner we proceeded across the eastern branch, and along
the north side of the middle branch for nine miles, when we
reached the gap in the mountains, and took our last leave
of this extensive valley, which we called the Hotspring valley.
It is indeed a beautiful country; though enclosed by
mountains covered with snow, the soil is exceedingly fertile
and well supplied with esculent plants; while its numerous
creeks furnish immense quantities of beaver. Another
valley less extensive and more rugged opened itself to our
view as we passed through the gap; but as we had made
twenty-five miles, and the night was advancing, we halted
near some handsome springs, which fall into Willard's
creek. After a cold night, during which our horses separated
and could not be collected till eight o'clock in the morning,

Tuesday 8, we crossed the valley along the southwest
side of Willard's creek for twelve miles, when it entered
the mountains, and then turning S. 20° E. came to the Shoshonee
cove, after riding seven miles; whence we proceeded
down the west branch of Jefferson river, and at the distance
of nine miles, reached its forks, where we had deposited our
merchandise in the month of August. Most of the men
were in the habit of chewing tobacco; and such was their
eagerness to procure it after so long a privation, that they
scarcely took the saddles from their horses before they
ran to the cave, and were delighted at being able to resume
this fascinating indulgence. This was one of the severest
privations which we have encountered. Some of the men,
whose tomahawks were so constructed as to answer the purposes
of pipes, broke the handles of these instruments, and
after cutting them into small fragments, chewed them; the
wood having, by frequent smoking, become strongly impregnated

with the taste of that plant. We found every
thing safe, though some of the goods were a little damp, and
one of the canoes had a hole. The ride of this day was
twenty-seven miles in length, and through a country diversified
by low marshy grounds, and high, open, and stony
plains, terminated by high mountains, on the tops and
along the northern sides of which the snow still remained.
Over the whole were scattered great quantities of hysop and
the different species of shrubs, common to the plains of the
Missouri.

We had now crossed the whole distance from Travellers'-rest
creek to the head of Jefferson's river, which seems to
form the best and shortest route over the mountains, during
almost the whole distance of one hundred and sixty-four
miles. It is, in fact, a very excellent road, and by cutting
a few trees, might be rendered a good route for wagons,
with the exception of about four miles over one of the mountains,
which would require some levelling.

Wednesday, 9. We were all occupied in raising and repairing
the canoes, and making the necessary preparations
for resuming our journey to-morrow. The day proved cold
and windy, so that the canoes were soon dried. We were
here overtaken by serjeant Ordway and his party, who had
discovered our horses near the head of the creek on which
we encamped, and although they were very much scattered,
and endeavoured to escape as fast as they could, he brought
them back. The squaw found to-day a plant which grows
in the moist lands, the root of which is eaten by the Indians.
The stem and leaf, as well as the root of this plant, resemble
the common carrot, in form, size and taste, though the
colour is of somewhat a paler yellow. The night continued
very cold, and in the morning,

Thursday 10, a white frost covered the ground; the grass
was frozen, and the ice three quarters of an inch thick in a
basin of water. The boats were now loaded, and captain
Clarke divided his men into two bands, one to descend the

river with the baggage, while he, with the other, proceeded
on horseback to the Rochejaune. After breakfast the
two parties set out, those on shore skirting the eastern side
of Jefferson river, through Service valley, and over the Rattlesnake
mountain, into a beautiful and extensive country,
known among the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah,
or Beaverhead valley, from the number of those animals to
be found in it, and also from a point of land resembling the
head of a beaver. It extends from the Rattlesnake mountain
as low as Frazier's creek, and is about fifty miles in
length, in a direct line, while its width varies from ten to
fifteen miles, being watered in its whole course by the Jefferson
and six different creeks. The valley is open and fertile,
and besides the innumerable quantities of beaver and
otter, with which its creeks are supplied, the bushes of the
low grounds are a favourite resort for deer, while on the
higher parts of the valley are seen scattered groups of antelopes,
and still further, on the steep sides of the mountains,
we observed many of the bighorn, which take refuge there
from the wolves and bears. At the distance of fifteen miles
the two parties stopped to dine, when captain Clarke finding
that the river became wider and deeper, and that the
canoes could advance more rapidly than the horses, determined
to go himself by water, leaving serjeant Pryor with
six men, to bring on the horses. In this way they resumed
their journey after dinner, and encamped on the eastern
side of the river, opposite the head of the Three-thousandmile
island. The beaver were basking in great numbers
along the shore; they saw also some young wild geese and
ducks. The musquetoes were very troublesome during the
day, but after sunset the weather became cool and they disappeared.
The next morning,

Friday, 11, captain Clarke sent four men ahead to hunt,
and after an early breakfast proceeded down a very narrow
channel, which was rendered more difficult by a high southwest
wind, which blew from the high snowy mountains in

that quarter, and met them in the face at every bend of the
river, which was now become very crooked. At noon they
passed the high point of land on the left, to which Beaverhead
valley owes its name, and at six o'clock reached Philanthropy
river, which was at present very low. The wind now
shifted to the northeast, and though high, was much warmer
than before. At seven o'clock they reached their encampment
at the entrance of Wisdom river on the sixth of
August. They found the river very high, but falling. Here too,
they overtook the hunters, who had killed a buck and some
young geese. Besides these they had seen a great number
of geese and sandhill cranes, and some deer. The beaver
too were in great quantities along the banks of the rivers, and
through the night were flapping their tails in the water
round the boats. Having found the canoe which had been
left here as they ascended, they employed themselves,

Saturday, 12, till eight o'clock in drawing out the nails and
making paddles of the sides of it. Then leaving one of their
canoes here, they set out after breakfast. Immediately below
the forks the current became stronger than above, and the
course of the river straighter, as far as Panther creek, after
which it became much more crooked. A high wind
now arose from the snowy mountains to the northwest, so
that it was with much difficulty and some danger they reached,
at three o'clock, the entrance of Fields's creek. After
dining at that place, they pursued their course and stopped
for the night below their encampment of the 31st of July
last. Beaver, young geese, and deer continued to be their
game, and they saw some old signs of buffaloe. The musquetoes
also were still very troublesome.

Sunday, 13. Early in the morning they set out, and at
noon reached the entrance of Madison river, where serjeant
Pryor had arrived with the horses about an hour before.
The horses were then driven across Madison and Gallatin
rivers, and the whole party halted to dine and unload the
canoes below the mouth of the latter. Here the two parties

separated; serjeant Ordway with nine men set out in
six canoes to descend the river, while captain Clarke with
the remaining ten, and the wife and child of Chaboneau,
were to proceed by land, with fifty horses, to Yellowstone
river. They set out at five in the afternoon from the forks
of the Missouri, in a direction nearly eastward; but as many
of the horses had sore feet, they were obliged to move
slowly, and after going four miles, halted for the night on
the bank of Gallatin's river. This is a beautiful stream,
and though the current is rapid and obstructed by islands
near its mouth, is navigable for canoes. On its lower side
the land rises gradually to the foot of a mountain, running
almost parallel to it; but the country below it and Madison's
river is a level plain, covered at present with low grass, the
soil being poor, and injured by stones and strata of hard
white rock along the hill sides. Throughout the whole,
game was very abundant. They procured deer in the low
grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin's river, and
elk, wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese, were seen at
different parts of the route. The plain was intersected by
several great roads, leading to a gap in the mountain, about
twenty miles distant, in a direction E. N. E. but the Indian
woman, who was acquainted with the country, recommended
a gap more to the southward. This course captain
Clarke determined to pursue; and therefore at an early hour
in the morning,

Monday, 14, crossed Gallatin's river in a direction
south 78° east, and passing over a level plain, reached the
Jefferson at the distance of six miles. That river is here divided
into many channels, which spread themselves for several
miles through the low grounds, and are dammed up
by the beaver in such a manner, that after attempting in
vain to reach the opposite side, they were obliged to turn
short about to the right, till with some difficulty they
reached a low but firm island, extending nearly in the course
they desired to follow. The squaw now assured captain

Clarke that the large road from Medicine river to the gap
we were seeking, crossed the upper part of this plain. He
therefore proceeded four miles up the plain and reached
the main channel of the river, which is still navigable for
canoes, though much divided and dammed up by multitudes
of beaver. Having forded the river, they passed through a
little skirt of cottonwood timber to a low open plain, where
they dined. They saw elk, deer, and antelopes, and in
every direction the roads made by the buffaloe, as well as
some old signs of them. The squaw informed them, that
but a few years ago these animals were numerous, not only
here but even to the sources of Jefferson's river; but of late
they have disappeared, for the Shoshonees being fearful of
going west of the mountains, have hunted this country with
more activity, and of course driven the buffaloe from their
usual haunts. After dinner they continued inclining to the
south of east, through an open level plain, till at the distance
of twelve miles they reached the three forks of
Gallatin's river. On crossing the southerly branch, they
fell into the buffaloe road, described by the squaw, which led
them up the middle branch for two miles; this branch is
provided with immense quantities of beaver, but is sufficiently
navigable for small canoes, by unlading at the worst
dams. After crossing, they went on a mile further, and encamped
at the beginning of the gap in the mountain, which
here forms a kind of semicircle, through which the three
branches of the river pass. Several roads come in from the
right and left, all tending to the gap. A little snow still
remains on a naked mountain to the eastward, but in every
other direction the mountains are covered with great quantities.

Tuesday, 15. After an early breakfast they pursued
the buffaloe road over a low gap in the mountain to the
heads of the eastern fork of Gallatin's river, near which
they had encamped last evening, and at the distance of six
miles reached the top of the dividing ridge, which separates

the waters of the Missouri and the Yellowstone; and
on descending the ridge, they struck one of the streams of
the latter river. They followed its course through an open
country, with high mountains on each side, partially covered
with pine, and watered by several streams, crowded as usual
with beaver dams. Nine miles from the top of the ridge
they reached the Yellowstone itself, about a mile and a half
below where it issues from the Rocky mountains. It now
appeared that the communication between the two rivers
was short and easy. From the head of the Missouri at its three
forks to this place is a distance of forty-eight miles, the greater
part of which is through a level plain; indeed, from the
forks of the eastern branch of Gallatin's river, which is there
navigable for small canoes, to this part of the Yellowstone,
the distance is no more than eighteen miles, with an excellent
road over a high, dry country, with hills of inconsiderable
height and no difficulty in passing. They halted three
hours to rest their horses, and then pursued the buffaloe
road along the bank of the river. Although just leaving a
high snowy mountain, the Yellowstone is already a bold, rapid,
and deep stream, one hundred and twenty yards in
width. The bottoms of the river are narrow within the mountains,
but widen to the extent of nearly two miles in the valley
below, where they are occasionally overflowed, and the
soil gives nourishment to cottonwood, rose-bushes, honeysuckle,
rushes, common coarse grass, a species of rye, and
such productions of moist lands. On each side these low
grounds are bounded by dry plains of coarse gravel and
sand, stretching back to the foot of the mountains, and supplied
with a very short grass. The mountains on the east
side of the river are rough and rocky, and still retain great
quantities of snow, and two other high snowy mountains
may be distinguished, one bearing north fifteen or twenty
miles, the other nearly east. They have no covering except
a few scattered pine, nor indeed was any timber fit for
even a small canoe to be seen. At the distance of nine
miles from the mountain, a river discharges itself into the
Yellowstone, from the northwest, under a high rocky cliff.
It rises from the snowy mountains in that direction; is about
thirty-five yards wide; has a bold, deep current; is skirted by
some cottonwood and willow trees, and like the Yellowstone
itself, seems to abound in beaver. They gave it the name of
Shields's river, after one of the party. Immediately below
is a very good buffaloe road, which obviously leads from
its head through a gap in the mountain, over to the waters
of the Missouri. They passed Shields's river, and at three
miles further, after crossing a high rocky hill, encamped in
a low bottom, near the entrance of a small creek. As they
came through the mountains they had seen two black bear
and a number of antelopes, as well as several herds of elk, of
between two and three hundred in number, but they were
able to kill only a single elk. The next morning,

Wednesday, 16, therefore, a hunter was despatched
ahead, while the party collected the straggling horses. They
then proceeded down the river, which is very straight, and
has several islands covered with cottonwood and willow; but
they could not procure a single tree large enough for a canoe,
and being unwilling to trust altogether to skin canoes,
captain Clarke preferred going on until they found some timber.
The feet of the horses were now nearly worn to the
quick, particularly the hind feet, so that they were obliged
to make a sort of moccasin of green buffaloe skin, which relieved
them very much in crossing the plains. After passing
a bold creek from the south, of twenty yards in width,
they halted for dinner on an island, then went on till at night
they encamped near the entrance of another small stream,
having made twenty-six miles during the day. They saw
some bear and great numbers of antelopes and elks; but the
soreness of their horses' feet rendered it difficult to chase
them. One of the men caught a fish which they had not
seen before; it was eight inches long, and resembled a trout
in form, but its mouth was like that of the sturgeon, and it

had a red streak passing on each side from the gills to the
tail. In the plains were but few plants except the silk-grass,
the wild indigo, and the sunflower, which are now
all in bloom. The high grounds on the river are faced with
a deep freestone rock, of a hard, sharp grit, which may also
be seen in perpendicular strata throughout the plain.

Thursday, 17. It rained during the night, and as the
party had no covering but a buffaloe skin, they rose drenched
with water; and pursuing their journey at an early hour, over
the point of a ridge, and through an open low bottom,
reached at the distance of six and a half miles, a part of the
river, where two large creeks enter immediately opposite to
each other; one from the northwest, the other from the
south of southwest. These captain Clarke called Riversacross.
Ten miles and a half further they halted for dinner
below the entrance of a large creek on the northeast
side, about thirty yards in width, which they named Otter
river. Nearly opposite to this is another, to which they
gave the name of Beaver river. The waters of both are of a
milky colour, and the banks well supplied with small timber.
The river is now becoming more divided by islands,
and a number of small creeks fall in on both sides. The
largest of these is about seven miles from the Beaver river,
and enters on the right: they called it Bratton's river, from
one of the men. The highlands too approach the river
more nearly than before, but although their sides are partially
supplied with pine and cedar, the growth is still too
small for canoes. The buffaloe is beginning to be more
abundant, and to-day, for the first time on this river, they
saw a pelican; but deer and elk are now more scarce than
before. In one of the low bottoms of the river was an Indian
fort, which seems to have been built during the last
summer. It was built in the form of a circle, about fifty
feet in diameter, five feet high, and formed of logs, lapping
over each other, and covered on the outside with bark set
up an end. The entrance also was guarded by a work on

each side of it, facing the river. These intrenchments, the
squaw informs us, are frequently made by the Minnetarees
and other Indians at war with the Shoshonees, when pursued
by their enemies on horseback. After making thirty-three
miles, they encamped near a point of woods in the
narrow bottom of the river.

Friday, 18. Before setting out they killed two buffaloe,
which ventured near the camp, and then pursued their route
over the ridges of the highlands, so as to avoid the bends
of the river, which now washes the feet of the hills. The
face of the country is rough and stony, and covered with
immense quantities of the prickly pear. The river is nearly
two hundred yards wide, rapid as usual, and with a bed
of coarse gravel and round stones. The same materials are
the basis of the soil in the high bottoms, with a mixture of
dark brown earth. The river hills are about two hundred
feet high, and still faced with a dark freestone rock; and
the country back of them broken into open waving plains.
Pine is the only growth of importance; but among the smaller
plants were distinguished the purple, yellow, and black currants,
which are now ripe, and of an excellent flavour.
About eleven o'clock a smoke was described to the S. S. E.
towards the termination of the Rocky mountains, intended
most probably, as a signal by the Crow Indians, who have
mistaken us for their enemies, or as friends to trade with
them. They could not however stop to ascertain the truth of
this conjecture, but rode on, and after passing another old Indian
fort, similar to that seen yesterday, halted for the night
on a small island, twenty-six miles from their camp of last
evening. One of the hunters in attempting to mount his
horse, after shooting a deer, fell on a small piece of timber,
which ran nearly two inches into the muscular part of his
thigh. The wound was very painful; and were it not for
their great anxiety to reach the United States this season,
the party would have remained till he was cured: but the
time was too precious to wait. The gentlest and strongest

horse was therefore selected, and a sort of litter formed in
such a manner as to enable the sick man to lie nearly at full
length. They then proceeded gently, and at the distance of
two miles passed a river entering from the southeast side,
about forty yards wide, and called by the Indians Itchkeppearja,
or Rose river, a name which it deserves, as well from
its beauty as from the roses which we saw budding on its
borders. Soon after they passed another Indian fort on an
island, and after making nine miles, halted to let the horses
graze, and sent out a hunter to look for timber to make a
canoe, and procure, if possible, some wild ginger to make a
poultice for Gibson's thigh, which was now exceedingly
painful, in consequence of his constrained position. He returned,
however, without being able to find either; but
brought back two bucks, and had had a contest with two
white bears who had chased him; but being on horseback
he escaped, after wounding both of them. There
are great quantities of currants in the plains, but almost
every blade of grass for many miles have been destroyed by
immense swarms of grasshoppers, who appear to be ascending
the river. After taking some refreshment they proceeded,
and found that the hills became lower on both sides;
those on the right overhanging the river in cliffs of a darkish
yellow earth, and the bottoms widening to several miles
in extent. The timber too, although chiefly cottonwood, is
coming large.

They had not gone far when Gibson's wound became so
violently painful that he could no longer remain on horseback.
He was therefore left with two men under the shade
of a tree, while captain Clarke went on to seek for timber.
At the distance of eighteen miles from his camp of last
night he halted near a thick grove of trees, some of which
were large enough for small canoes, and then searched all
the adjacent country till evening, when Gibson was brought
on to the camp. The game of to-day consisted of six deer,
seven elk, and an antelope. The smoke which had been

seen on the 17th, was again distinguished this afternoon,
and one of the party reported that he had observed an Indian
on the highlands on the opposite side of the river. The
next morning at daylight,

Sunday, 20, two good judges of timber were sent down
the river in quest of lumber, but returned without being
able to find any trees larger than those near the camp, nor
could they procure any for axe-handles except chokecherry.
Captain Clarke determined therefore to make two canoes,
which being lashed together, might be sufficient to
convey the party down the river, while a few men might
lead the horses to the Mandan nation. Three axes were
now sharpened with a file, and some of the men proceeded
to cut down two of the largest trees, on which they
worked till night. The rest of the party were occupied in
dressing skins for clothes, or in hunting, in which they were
so fortunate as to procure a deer, two buffaloe and an elk.
The horses being much fatigued, they were turned out to
rest for a few days; but in the morning,

Monday, 21, twenty-four of them were missing. Three
hunters were sent in different directions to look for them;
but all returned unsuccessful, and it now seemed probable
that the Indians who had made the smoke a few days since,
had stolen the horses. In the meantime the men worked
so diligently on the canoes that one of them was nearly
completed. Late in the evening, a very black cloud accompanied
with thunder and lightning rose from the southeast,
and rendered the weather extremely warm and disagreeable.
The wind too was very high, but shifted towards
morning,

Tuesday, 22, to the northeast, and became moderately
cool. Three men were now despatched in quest of the horses,
but they came back without being able to discover even
a track, the plains being so hard and dry that the foot makes
no impression. This confirms the suspicion of their being
stolen by the Indians, who would probably take them across

the plains, to avoid being pursued by their traces; besides,
the improbability of their voluntarily leaving rushes and
grass of the river bottoms to go on the plains, where they
could find nothing but a short dry grass. Four men were
again sent out with orders to encircle the camp for a great
distance round, but they too returned with no better success
than those who had preceded them. The search was resumed
in the morning,

Wednesday, 23, and a piece of a robe, and a moccasin,
were discovered not far from the camp. The moccasin was
worn out in the sole, and yet wet, and had every appearance
of having been left but a few hours before. This sign was
conclusive that the Indians had taken our horses, and were
still prowling about for the remainder, who fortunately escaped
last night, by being in a small prairie, surrounded by
thick timber. At length Labiche, who is one of the best
trackers, returned from a very wide circuit, and informed
captain Clarke that he had traced the tracks of the horses,
which were bending their course rather down the river towards
the open plains, and from the track, going very rapidly.
All hopes of recovering them were now abandoned.
The Indians are not the only plunderers who surround the
camp, for last night the wolves or dogs stole the greater
part of the dried meat from the scaffold. The wolves, which
constantly attend the buffaloe, are here in great numbers,
for this seems to be the commencement of the buffaloe country.
Besides them, are seen antelopes, pidgeons, doves,
hawks, ravens, crows, larks, sparrows, eagles, bank-martins,
&c. &c. great numbers of geese too, which raise their
young on this river, have passed the camp. The country
itself consists of beautiful level plains, but the soil is thin
and stony, and both plains and low grounds are covered with
great quantities of prickly pear.

At noon the two canoes were finished. They are twenty-eight
feet long, sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from
sixteen to twenty-four inches wide, and being lashed together,

every thing was prepared for setting out to-morrow;
Gibson having now recovered. Serjeant Pryor was now directed
with Shannon and Windsor, to take our horses to
the Mandans, and if he found that Mr. Henry was on the
Assiniboin river, to go thither and deliver him a letter, the
object of which was to prevail on the most distinguished
chiefs of the Sioux to accompany him to Washington.