University of Virginia Library

CHAPTER XVIII.

Thursday, August 12. The party continued slowly to
descend the river. One of the skin canoes was by accident
pierced with a small hole, and they halted for the purpose
of mending it with a piece of elk skin, and also to wait for
two of the party who were behind. Whilst there, they were
overjoyed at seeing captain Lewis's boats heave in sight
about noon. But this feeling was changed into alarm on
seeing the boats reach the shore without captain Lewis,
who they then learnt had been wounded the day before, and

was then lying in the periogue. After giving to his wound
all the attention in our power, we remained here some time,
during which we were overtaken by our two men, accompanied
by Dickson and Hancock, who wished to go with us
as far as the Mandans. The whole party being now happily
reunited, we left the two skin canoes, and all embarked
together, about 3 o'clock, in the boats. The wind was however
very high from the southwest, accompanied with rain,
so that we did not go far before we halted for the night on a
sandbar. Captain Lewis's wound was now sore and somewhat
painful. The next day,

Friday, 13, they set out by sunrise, and having a very
strong breeze from the northwest, proceeded on rapidly. At
eight o'clock we passed the mouth of the Little Missouri.
Some Indians were seen at a distance below in a skin canoe,
and were probably some of the Minnetarees on their return
from a hunting excursion, as we passed one of their camps
on the southwest side, where they had left a canoe. Two
other Indians were seen far off on one of the hills, and we
shall therefore soon meet with our old acquaintances, the
Mandans. At sunset we arrived at the entrance of Miry
river, and encamped on the northeast side, having come by
the assistance of the wind and our oars, a distance of eighty
six miles. The air was cool, and the musquetoes ceased to
trouble us as they had done.

Saturday, 14. We again set out at sunrise, and at length
approached the grand village of the Minnetarees, where
the natives had collected to view us as we passed. We fired
the blunderbuss several times by way of salute, and soon after
landed at the bank near the village of the Mahahas, or
Shoe Indians, and were received by a crowd of people, who
came to welcome our return. Among these were the principal
chief of the Mahahas, and the chief of the Little Minnetaree
village, both of whom expressed great pleasure at
seeing us again; but the latter wept most bitterly. On inquiry,
it appeared that his tears were excited because the

sight of us reminded him of his son, who had been lately
killed by the Blackfoot Indians. After remaining there a
few minutes, we crossed to the Mandan village of the Blackcat,
where all the inhabitants seemed very much pleased at
seeing us. We immediately sent Chaboneau with an invitation
for the Minnetarees to visit us, and despatched Drewyer
to the lower village of the Mandans to bring Jesseaume
as an interpreter. Captain Clarke, in the meantime, walked
up to the village of the Blackeat, and smoked and eat
with the chief. This village has been rebuilt since our departure,
and was now much smaller; a quarrel having arisen
among the Indians, in consequence of which a number of
families had removed to the opposite side of the river. On
the arrival of Jesseaume, captain Clarke addressed the
chiefs. We spoke to them now, he said, in the same language
we had done before; and repeated his invitation to accompany
him to the United States, to hear in person the councils
of their great father, who can at all times protect those
who open their ears to his councils, and punish his enemies.
The Blackcat in reply, declared that he wished to visit the
United States, and see his great father, but was afraid of
the Sioux, who had killed several of the Mandans since our
departure, and who were now on the river below, and would
intercept him if he attempted to go. Captain Clarke endeavoured
to quiet his apprehensions by assuring him that he
would not suffer the Sioux to injure one of our red children
who should accompany us, and that they should return loaded
with presents, and protected at the expense of the United
States. The council was then broken up, after which we
crossed and formed our camp on the other side of the river.
where we should be sheltered from the rain. Soon after the
chief of the Mahahas informed us, that if we would send to
his village, we should have some corn. Three men were
therefore despatched, and soon after returned loaded with
as much as they could carry; and were soon followed by the
chief and his wife, to whom we presented a few needles and
other articles fit for women. In a short time the Borgne
(the great chief of all the Minnetarees) came down, attended
by several other chiefs, to whom, after smoking a pipe, captain
Clarke now made a harangue, renewing his assurances
of friendship and the invitation to go with us to Washington.
He was answered by the Borgne, who began by declaring
that he much desired to visit his great father, but
that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who
should attempt to go down the river. They were bad people,
and would not listen to any advice. When he saw us
last, we had told him that we had made peace with all the
nations below, yet the Sioux had since killed eight of his
tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras too
had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had
killed two of the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions
he had always had his ears open to our counsels, and had actually
made a peace with the Chayennes and the Indians of
the Rocky mountains. He concluded by saying, that however
disposed they were to visit the United States, the fear
of the Sioux would prevent them from going with us. The
council was then finished, and soon afterwards an invitation
was received from the Blackcat, who, on captain Clarke's
arrival at his village, presented him with a dozen bushels
of corn, which he said was a large proportion of what his
people owned; and after smoking a pipe, declared that his
people were too apprehensive of the Sioux to venture with us.
Captain Clarke then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the
village. He told them of his anxiety that some of them
should see their great father, and hear his good words and
receive his gifts, and requested them to fix on some confidential
chief who might accompany us. To this they made
the same objections as before, till at length a young man
offered to go, and the warriors all assented to it. But the
character of this man was known to be bad, and one of the
party with captain Clarke informed him that at the moment
he had in his possession a knife which he had stolen. Captain
Clarke therefore told the chief of this theft, and ordered the
knife to be given up. This was done with a poor apology for
having it in his possession, and captain Clarke then reproached
the chiefs for wishing to send such a fellow to see
and hear so distinguished a person as their great father.
They all hung down their heads for some time, till the Blackcat
apologized by saying, that the danger was such that they
were afraid of sending any of their chiefs, as they considered
his loss almost inevitable. Captain Clarke remained
some time with them, smoking and relating various particulars
of his journey, and then left them to visit the second
chief of the Mandans (or the Blackcrow) who had expressed
some disposition to accompany us. He seemed well inclined
to the journey, but was unwilling to decide till he had
called a council of his people, which he intended to do in the
afternoon. On returning to the camp, he found the chief of
the Mahahas, and also the chief of the Little Minnetaree
village, who brought a present of corn on their mules, of
which they possess several, and which they procure from
the Crow Indians, who either buy or steal them on the frontiers
of the Spanish settlements. A great number of the Indians
visited us for the purpose of renewing their acquaintance,
or of exchanging robes or other articles for the skins
brought by the men.

In the evening we were applied to by one of our men,
Colter, who was desirous of joining the two trappers who
had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition
up the river, in which they were to find traps and give him
a share of the profits. The offer was a very advantageous
one, and as he had always performed his duty, and his services
might be dispensed with, we agreed that he might go,
provided none of the rest would ask or expect a similar indulgence.
To this they cheerfully answered, that they
wished Colter every success, and would not apply for liberty
to separate before we reached St. Louis. We, therefore,
supplied him, as did his comrades also, with powder and lead,

and a variety of articles which might be useful to him, and
he left us the next day. The example of this man shows
how easily men may be weaned from the habits of a civilized
life to the ruder, but scarcely less fascinating manners of
the woods. This hunter has been now absent for many
years from the frontiers, and might naturally be presumed
to have some anxiety, or some curiosity at least to return to
his friends and his country: yet just at the moment when he
is approaching the frontiers, he is tempted by a hunting
scheme, to give up those delightful prospects, and go back
without the least reluctance to the solitude of the woods.

In the evening Chaboneau, who had been mingling with
the Indians, and had learned what had taken place during
our absence, informed us, that as soon as we had left the
Minnetarees, they sent out a war party against the Shoshonees,
whom they attacked and routed, though in the engagement
they lost two men, one of whom was the son of the
chief of the Little Minnetaree village. Another war party
had gone against the Racaras, two of whom they killed. A
misunderstanding too had taken place between the Mandans
and Minnetarees, in consequence of a dispute about a woman,
which had nearly occasioned a war; but at length a
pipe was presented by the Minnetarees, and a reconciliation
took place.

Friday 16. The Mandans had offered to give us some
corn, and on sending this morning, we found a greater quantity
collected for our use than all our canoes would contain.
We therefore thanked the chief and took only six loads. At
ten o'clock the chiefs of the different villages came down to
smoke with us. We therefore took this opportunity of endeavouring
to engage the Borgne in our interests by a present
of the swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as it cannot
be discharged from our largest periogue. It was now
loaded, and the chiefs being formed into a circle round it,
captain Clarke addressed them with great ceremony. He
said that he had listened with much attention to what had

yesterday been declared by the Borgne, whom he believed
to be sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard
of our counsels, and their wars on the Shoshonees and
Ricaras. Littlecherry, the old Minnetaree chief, answered
that they had long staid at home and listened to our advice,
but at last went to war against the Sioux because their horses
had been stolen, and their companions killed; and that in
an expedition against those people, they had met the Ricaras,
who were on their way to strike them, and a battle ensued.
But in future he said they would attend to our
words and live at peace. The Borgne added, that his ears
too would always be open to the words of his good father,
and shut against bad counsel. Captain Clarke then presented
to the Borgne the swivel, which he told him had announced
the words of his great father to all the nations we
had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should recall
those which we had delivered to him. The gun was then
discharged, and the Borgne had it conveyed in great pomp
to his village. The council was then adjourned.

In the afternoon captain Clarke walked up to the village
of the Littlecrow, taking a flag, which he intended to present
to him, but was surprised on being told by him, that he had
given over all intention of accompanying us, and refused the
flag. He found that this was occasioned by a jealousy between
him and the principal chief, Bigwhite: on the interference,
however, of Jesseaume, the two chiefs were reconciled,
and it was agreed that the Bigwhite himself should
accompany us with his wife and son.

Saturday, 17. The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees
came down to bid us farewell, as none of them could be prevailed
on to go with us. This circumstance induced our interpreter,
Chaboneau, with his wife and child, to remain
here, as he could be no longer useful; and notwithstanding
our offers of taking him with us to the United States, he
said that he had there no acquaintance, and no chance of
making a livelihood, and preferred remaining among the Indians.

This man has been very serviceable to us, and his
wife particularly useful among the Shoshonees. Indeed, she
has borne with a patience truly admirable, the fatigues of
so long a route, incumbered with the charge of an infant,
who is even now only nineteen months old. We therefore
paid him his wages, amounting to five hundred dollars and
thirty three cents, including the price of a horse and a lodge
purchased of him; and soon afterwards dropped down to the
village of the Bigwhite, attended on shore by all the Indian
chiefs who went to take leave of him. We found him
surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking,
while the women were crying. He immediately sent his
wife and son, with their baggage, on board, accompanied by
the interpreter and his wife, and two children; and then after
distributing among his friends some powder and ball,
which we had given to him, and smoking a pipe with us,
went with us to the river side. The whole village crowded
about us, and many of the people wept aloud at the departure
of the chief. As captain Clarke was shaking hands
with the principal chiefs of all the villages, they requested
that he would sit with them one moment longer. Being
willing to gratify them, he stopped and ordered a pipe, after
smoking which, they informed him that when they first
saw us, they did not believe all that we then told them; but
having now seen that our words were all true, they would
carefully remember them, and follow our advice; that he
might tell their great father that the young men should remain
at home and not make war on any people except in defence
of themselves. They requested him to tell the Ricaras
to come and visit them without fear, as they meant that
nation no harm, but were desirous of peace with them. On
the Sioux, however, they had no dependence, and must kill
them whenever they made war parties against their country.
Captain Clarke, in reply, informed them that we had
never insisted on their not defending themselves, but requested
only that they would not strike those whom we had taken by
the hand; that we would apprise the Ricaras of their friendly
intentions, and that, although we had not seen those of the
Sioux with whom they were at war, we should relate their
conduct to their great father, who would take measures for
producing a general peace among all his red children.

The Borgne now requested that we would take good care
of this chief, who would report whatever their great father
should say; and the council being then broken up, we took
leave with a salute from a gun, and then proceeded. On
reaching fort Mandan, we found a few pickets standing on
the river side, but all the houses except one, had been burnt
by an accidental fire. At the distance of eighteen miles
we reached the old Ricara village, where we encamped on
the southwest side, the wind being too violent, and the
waves too high to permit us to go any further. The same
cause prevented us from setting out before eight o'clock the
next day,

Monday, 18. Soon after we embarked, an Indian came
running down to the beach, who appeared very anxious to
speak to us. We went ashore, and found it was the brother
of the Bigwhite, who was encamped at no great distance,
and hearing of our departure, came to take leave of the
chief. The Bigwhite gave him a pair of leggings, and they
separated in a most affectionate manner; and we then continued
though the wind and waves were still high. The Indian
chief seems quite satisfied with his treatment, and during
the whole of his time was employed in pointing out
the ancient monuments of the Mandans, or in relating
their traditions. At length, after making forty miles, we
encamped on the northeast side, opposite an old Mandan village,
and below the mouth of Chesshetah river.

Tuesday, 19. The wind was so violent that we were not
able to proceed until four in the afternoon, during which
time the hunters killed four elk and twelve deer. We then
went on for ten miles, and came to on a sandbar. The rain

and wind continued through the night, and during the whole
of the next day,

Wednesday, 20, the waves were so high, that one man
was constantly occupied in bailing the boats. We passed
at noon, Cannonhall river; and at three in the afternoon, the
entrance of the river Wardepon, the boundary of the country
claimed by the Sioux; and after coming eighty-one miles,
passed the night on a sandbar. The plains are beginning to
change their appearance, the grass becoming of a yellow colour.
We have seen great numbers of wolves to-day, and
some buffaloe and elk, though these are by no means so
abundant as on the Yellowstone.

Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken
place in the current and appearance of the Missouri. In places
where at that time there were sandbars, the current of
the river now passes, and the former channel of the river is
in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then naked, are covered
with willows several feet high: the entrance of some of the
creeks and rivers changed in consequence of the quantity of
mud thrown into them; and in some of the bottoms are layers
of mud eight inches in depth.

Thursday, 21. We rose after a night of broken rest,
owing to the musquetoes, and having put our arms in order,
so as to be prepared for an attack, continued our course.
We soon met three traders, two of whom had wintered with
us among the Mandans in 1804, and who were now on their
way there. They had exhausted all their powder and lead;
we therefore supplied them with both. They informed us
that seven hundred Sioux had passed the Ricara towns on
their way to make war against the Mandans and Minnetarees,
leaving their women and children encamped near the
Big-bend of the Missouri, and that the Ricaras all remained
at home, without taking any part in the war. They also told
us that the Pawnee, or Ricara chief, who went to the United
States in the spring of 1805, died on his return near Sioux
river.

We then left them, and soon afterwards arrived opposite
to the upper Ricara villages. We saluted them with the discharge
of four guns, which they answered in the same manner;
and on our landing we were met by the greater part of
the inhabitants of each village, and also by a band of Chayennes,
who were encamped on a hill in the neighbourhood.

As soon as captain Clarke stepped on shore, he was
greeted by the two chiefs to whom we had given medals on
our last visit, and as they, as well as the rest, appeared much
rejoiced at our return, and desirous of hearing from the
Mandans, he sat down on the bank, while the Ricaras and
Chayennes formed a circle round him; and after smoking,
he informed them, as he had already done the Minnetarees,
of the various tribes we had visited, and our anxiety to promote
peace among our red brethren. He then expressed his
regret at their having attacked the Mandans, who had listened
to our counsels, and had sent on a chief to smoke with
them, and to assure them that they might now hunt in the
plains, and visit the Mandan villages in safety, and concluded
by inviting some of the chiefs to accompany us to Washington.
The man whom we had acknowledged as the principal
chief when we ascended, now presented another, who
he said was a greater chief than himself, and to him, therefore,
he had surrendered the flag and medal with which we
had honoured him. This chief, who was absent at our last
visit is a man of thirty-five years of age, a stout, well-looking
man, and called by the Indians, Grayeyes.

He now made a very animated reply. He declared that
the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels we had given
them, but a few of their bad young men would not live in
peace, but had joined the Sioux, and thus embroiled them
with the Mandans. These young men had, however, been
driven out of the villages, and as the Ricaras were now separated
from the Sioux, who were a bad people, and the
cause of all their misfortunes, they now desired to be at
peace with the Mandans, and would receive them with

kindness and friendship. Several of the chiefs he said were
desirous of visiting their great father, but as the chief who
went to the United States last summer had not returned,
and they had some fears for his safety, on account of the
Sioux, they did not wish to leave home until they heard of
him. With regard to himself, he would continue with his
nation, to see that they followed our advice.

The sun being now very hot, the chief of the Chayennes
invited us to his lodge, which was at no great distance
from the river. We followed him, and found a very large
lodge, made of twenty buffaloe skins, surrounded by eighteen
or twenty lodges, nearly equal in size. The rest of the
nation are expected to-morrow, and will make the number
of one hundred and thirty or fifty lodges, containing from
three hundred and fifty to four hundred men, at which the
men of the nation may be computed. These Chayennes
are a fine looking people, of a large stature, straight limbs,
high check-bones and noses, and of a complexion similar to
that of the Ricaras. Their ears are cut at the lower part,
but few wear ornaments in them: the hair is generally cut
over the eyebrows and small ornaments fall down the cheeks,
the remainder being either twisted with horse or buffaloe
hair, and divided over each shoulder, or else flowing loosely
behind. Their decorations consist chiefly of blue beads,
shells, red paint, brass rings, bears' claws, and strips of otter
skins, of which last they, as well as the Ricaras, are very
fond. The women are coarse in their features, with wide
mouths, and ugly. Their dress consists of a habit falling to the
midleg, and made of two equal pieces of leather, sewed from
the bottom with arm holes, with a flap hanging nearly half
way down the body, both before and behind. These are burnt
various figures, by means of a hot stick, and adorned with
beads, shells, and elks' tusks, which all Indians admire.
The other ornaments are blue beads in the ears, but the hair
is plain and flows down the back. The summer dress of the
men is a simple buffaloe robe, a cloth round the waist, moccasins,

and occasionally leggings. Living remote from the
whites, they are shy and cautious, but are peaceably disposed,
and profess to make war against no people except the
Sioux, with whom they have been engaged in contests immemorially.
In their excursions they are accompanied by
their dogs and horses, which they possess in great numbers,
the former serving to carry almost all their light baggage.
After smoking for some time, captain Clarke gave a small
medal to the Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time
the meaning of it. He seemed alarmed at this present, and
sent for a robe and a quantity of buffaloe meat, which he
gave to captain Clarke, and requested him to take back the
medal, for he knew that all white people were medicine,
and he was afraid of the medal, or of any thing else which
the white people gave to the Indians. Captain Clarke then
repeated his intention in giving the medal, which was the
medicine his great father had directed him to deliver to all
chiefs who listened to his word and followed his counsels;
and that as he had done so, the medal was given as a proof
that we believed him sincere. He now appeared satisfied
and received the medal, in return for which he gave double
the quantity of buffaloe meat he had offered before. He
seemed now quite reconciled to the whites, and requested
that some traders might be sent among the Chayennes, who
lived, he said, in a country full of beaver, but did not understand
well how to catch them, and were discouraged from it
by having no sale for them when caught. Captain Clarke
promised that they should be soon supplied with goods, and
taught the best mode of catching beaver.

The Bigwhite, chief of the Mandans, now addressed them
at some length, explaining the pacific intentions of his nation;
and the Chayenne observed that both the Ricaras and Mandans
seemed to be in fault; but at the end of the council the
Mandan chief was treated with great civility, and the greatest
harmony prevailed among them. The great chief, however,
informed us, that none of the Ricaras could be prevailed

on to go with us till the return of the other chief, and
that the Chayennes were a wild people, and afraid to go. He
invited captain Clarke to his house, and gave him two carrots
of tobacco, two beaver skins, and a trencher of boiled
corn and beans. It is the custom of all the nations on the
Missouri, to offer to every white man food and refreshment
when he first enters their tents.

Captain Clarke returned to the boats, where he found the
chief of the lower village, who had cut off part of his hair,
and disfigured himself in such a manner that we did not recognise
him at first, until he explained that he was in mourning
for his nephew, who had been killed by the Sioux. He
proceeded with us to the village on the island, where we
were met by all the inhabitants. The second chief, on seeing
the Mandan, began to speak to him in a loud and threatning
tone, till captain Clarke declared that the Mandans
had listened to our councils, and that if any injury was done
to the chief, we should defend him against every nation. He
then invited the Mandan to his lodge, and after a very ceremonious
smoking, assured captain Clarke that the Mandan
was as safe as at home, for the Ricaras had opened their
ears to our councils, as well as the Mandans. This was repeated
by the great chief, and the Mandan and Ricara chiefs
now smoked and conversed in great apparent harmony; after
which we returned to the boats. The whole distance today
was twenty-nine miles.

Friday, 22. It rained all night, so that we all rose this
morning quite wet, and were about proceeding, when captain
Clarke was requested to visit the chiefs. They now
made several speeches, in which they said that they were
unwilling to go with us, until the return of their countryman;
and that, although they disliked the Sioux as the origin of
all their troubles, yet as they had more horses than they
wanted, and were in want of guns and powder, they would
be obliged to trade once more with them for those articles,
after which they would break off all connexion with them.

He now returned to the boats, and after taking leave of the
people, who seemed to regret our departure, and firing a salute
of two guns, proceeded seventeen miles, and encamped
below Grouse island. We made only seventeen miles today,
for we were obliged to land near Wetarhoo river to dry
our baggage, besides which the sandbars are now unusually
numerous as the river widens below the Ricara villages.
Captain Lewis is now so far recovered that he was able to
walk a little to-day for the first time. While here we had occasion
to notice that the Mandans as well as the Minnetarees
and Ricaras keep their horses in the same lodges with themselves.

Saturday, 23. We set out early, but the wind was so
high, that soon after passing the Sahwacanah, we were
obliged to go on shore, and remain till three o'clock, when
a heavy shower of rain fell and the wind lulled. We then
continued our route, and after a day's journey of forty miles
encamped. Whilst on shore we killed three deer and as many
elk. Along the river are great quantities of grapes and
chokecherries, and also a species of currant which we have
never seen before: it is black, with a leaf much larger than
that of the other currants, and inferior in flavour to all of
them.

Sunday, 24. We set out at sunrise, and at eight o'clock
passed Lahoocat's island, opposite to the lower point of which
we landed to examine a stratum of stone, near the top of a
bluff of remarkably black clay. It is soft, white, and contains
a very fine grit; and on being dried in the sun will crumble
to pieces. The wind soon after became so high that we
were obliged to land for several hours, but proceeded at
five o'clock. After making forty-three miles, we encamped
at the gorge of the Lookout bend of the Missouri. The
Sioux have lately passed in this quarter, and there is now
very little game, and that so wild, that we were unable to
shoot any thing. Five of the hunters were therefore sent
ahead before daylight next morning,

Monday, 25, to hunt in the Pawnee island, and we followed
them soon after. At eight o'clock we reached the
entrance of the Chayenne, where we remained till noon, in
order to take a meridian observation. At three o'clock we
passed the old Pawnee village, near which we had met
the Tetons in 1804, and encamped in a large bottom on
the northeast side, a little below the mouth of Notimber
creek. Just above our camp the Ricaras had formerly a
large village on each side of the river, and there are still
seen the remains of five villages on the southwest side, below
the Chayenne, and one also on Lahoocat's island; but
these have all been destroyed by the Sioux. The weather
was clear and calm, but by means of our oars we made forty-eight
miles. Our hunters procured nothing except a few
deer.

The skirt of timber in the bend above the Chayenne is
inconsiderable, and scattered from four to sixteen miles on
the southwest side of the river, and the thickest part is from
the distance of from ten to six miles of the Chayenne. A
narrow bottom of small cottonwood trees is also on the northeast
point, at the distance of four miles above the river. A
few large trees, and a small undergrowth of willows on
the lower side bottom on the Missouri half a mile, and extend
a quarter of a mile up the Chayenne: there is a bottom
of cotton timber in the part above the Chayenne. The
Chayenne discharges but a little water at its mouth, which
resembles that of the Missouri.

Tuesday, 26. After a heavy dew we set out, and at nine
o'clock reached the entrance of Teton river, below which
were a raft and a skin canoe, which induced us to suspect
that the Tetons were in the neighbourhood. The arms were
therefore put in perfect order, and every thing prepared to
revenge the slightest insult from those people, to whom it is
necessary to show an example of salutary rigour. We, however,
went on without seeing any of them, although we
were obliged to land near Smoke creek for two hours, to stop

a leak in the periogue. Here we saw great quantities of
plums and grapes, but not yet ripe. At five o'clock we
passed Louisville's fort, on Cedar island, twelve miles below
which we encamped, having been able to row sixty miles
with the wind ahead during the greater part of the day.

Wednesday, 27. Before sunrise we set out with a stiff
eastern breeze in our faces, and at the distance of a few
miles landed on a sandbar near Tylor's river, and sent out
the hunters, as this was the most favourable spot to recruit
our stock of meat, which was now completely exhausted. But
after a hunt of three hours, they reported that no game was
to be found in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by
the immense number of buffaloes which had recently passed
over it; and that they saw only a few buffaloe bulls, which
they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for use. Near this
place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild turkey;
and not long after landed in the Bigbend, and killed a
fine fat elk, on which we feasted. Towards night we heard
the bellowing of the buffaloe bulls, on the lower island of the
Bigbend. We pursued this agreeable sound, and after kill
ing some of the cows, encamped on the island, forty-five miles
from the camp of last night.

Thursday, 28. We proceeded at an early hour, having
previously despatched some hunters ahead, with orders to
join us at our old camp a little above Corvus creek, where
we intended remaining one day, in order to procure the skins
and skeletons of some animals, such as the mule-deer, the
antelope, the barking squirrel, and the magpie, which we
were desirous of carrying to the United States, and which
we had seen in great abundance. After rowing thirtytwo
miles we landed at twelve, and formed a camp in a high
bottom, thinly timbered and covered with grass, and not
crowded with musquetoes. Soon after we arrived the squaws
and several of the men went to the bushes near the river,
and brought great quantities of large well flavoured plums
of three different species.

The hunters returned in the afternoon, without being
able to procure any of the game we wished, except the barking
squirrel, though they killed four common deer, and had
seen large herds of buffaloe, of which they brought in two.
They resumed their hunt in the morning,

Friday, 29, and the rest of the party were employed in
dressing skins, except two, who were sent to the village of
the barking squirrels, but could not see one of them out of
their holes. At ten o'clock the skins were dressed, and we
proceeded; and soon passed the entrance of White river, the
water of which is at this time nearly the colour of milk.
The day was spent in hunting along the river, so that we did
not advance more than twenty-miles; but with all our efforts
we were unable to kill either a mule-deer or an antelope,
though we procured the common deer, a porcupine, and
some buffaloe. These last animals are now so numerous that
from an eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen
before, at one time; and if it be not impossible to calculate
the moving multitude, which darkened the whole plains, we
are convinced that twenty thousand would be no exaggerated
number. With regard to game in general, we observe
that the greatest quantity of wild animals are usually found
in the country lying between two nations at war.

Saturday, 30. We set out at the usual hour, but after
going some distance were obliged to stop for two hours, in
order to wait for one of the hunters. During this time we
made an excursion to a large orchard of delicious plums,
where we were so fortunate as to kill two buck elks. We
then proceeded down the river, and were about landing at a
place where we had agreed to meet all the hunters, when
several persons appeared on the high hills to the northeast,
whom, by the help of the spy-glass, we distinguished to be
Indians. We landed on the southwest side of the river, and
immediately after saw, on a height opposite to us, about
twenty persons, one of whom, from his blanket great-coat,
and a handkerchief round his head, we supposed to be a

Frenchman. At the same time, eighty or ninety more Indians,
armed with guns and bows and arrows, came out of a
wood some distance below them, and fired a salute, which
we returned. From their hostile appearance, we were apprehensive
that they might be Tetons; but as from the country
through which they were roving, it was possible that
they were Yanktons, Pawnees, or Mahas, and therefore less
suspicious, we did not know in what way to receive them.
In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk
to the party, captain Clarke crossed, with three persons who
could speak different Indian languages, to a sandbar near
the opposite side, in hopes of conversing with them. Eight
young men soon met him on the sandbar, but none of them
could understand either the Pawnee or Maha interpreter.
They were then addressed in the Sioux language, and answered
that they were Tetons, of the band headed by the
Black-buffaloe, Tahtackasabah. This was the same who
had attempted to stop us in 1804: and being now less anxious
about offending so mischievous a tribe, captain Clarke told
them that they had been deaf to our councils, had ill treated
us two years ago, and had abused all the whites who had
since visited them. He believed them, he added, to be bad people
and they must therefore return to their companions, for if
they crossed over to our camp we would put them to death.
They asked for some corn, which captain Clarke refused;
they then requested permission to come and visit our camp,
but he ordered them back to their own people. He then
returned, and all the arms were prepared in case of an attack;
but when the Indians reached their comrades, and had
informed their chiefs of our intention, they all set out on
their way to their own camp; but some of them halted on
a rising ground, and abused us very copiously, threatening to
kill us if we came across. We took no notice of this for some
time, till the return of three of our hunters, whom we were
afraid the Indians might have met; but as soon as they joined
us, we embarked; and to see what the Indians would attempt,
steered near the side of their river. At this the
party on the hill seemed agitated, some set out for their
camp, others walked about, and one man walked towards the
boats and invited us to land. As he came near, we recognised
him to be the same who had accompanied us for two
days in 1804, and who is considered as the friend of the
whites. Unwilling, however, to have any interview with
these people, we declined his invitation; upon which he returned
to the hill, and struck the earth three times with his
gun, a great oath among the Indians, who consider swearing
by the earth as one of the most sacred forms of imprecation.
At the distance of six miles we stopped on a bleak
sandbar; where, however, we thought ourselves safe from
attack during the night, and also free from musquetoes.
We had now made only twenty-two miles; but in the course
of the day had procured a mule-deer, which we much desired.
About eleven in the evening the wind shifted to the
northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied with hard
claps of thunder and lightning; after which the wind changed
to southwest, and blew with such violence that we were
obliged to hold the canoes for fear of their being driven
from the sandbar; the cables of two of them however broke,
and two others were blown quite across the river, nor was
it till two o'clock that the whole party was reassembled,
waiting in the rain for daylight.