University of Virginia Library

[Clark:]

14th.. of October Sunday 1804.—

Some rain last night all wet & cold, we Set [out] early the
rain contind. all Day, at [blank in MS.] miles we passed a (1)
Creek on the L.S. 15 yards wide this Creek we call after
the 3rd. Chief Piaheto (or Eagles feather) at 1 oClock we
halted on a Sand bar & after Dinner executed the Sentence of
the Court Martial so far a[s] giveing the Corporal punishment,
& proceeded on a fiew Miles, the wind a head from
N.E. Camped in a Cove of the bank on the S.S.[38] imediately
opposit our Camp on the L.S. I observe an antient
fortification the Walls of which appear to be 8 or 10 feet high,
(most of it washed in) the evening wet and disagreeable, the
river Something wider more timber on the banks.

The punishment of this day allarmd. the Indian Chief verry
much, he cried aloud (or effected to cry) I explained the
Cause of the punishment and the necessity (of it) which he
(also) thought examples were also necessary, & he himself had
made them by Death, his nation never whiped even their
Children, from their burth.

Courses & Distance & reffurences.—14th.

             

S. 70 W.	1	Mls. to a pt. on the L.S. the Same course continud 2 Ml. to a bend L.S.
N. 63°. E.	2	Mls. to the pt. on the S.S. passd a Creek on the L.S. (1)
N. 30°. W.	1 1/2	Ml. to a large Tree on the L.S.
N. 40°. E.	1 1/2	Mls. some trees on the S.S.
N 60°. W.	3	Mls. to a pt. on the L.S. Passing
N. 70°. W.	3	Miles to a point on the S.S. passed an antient fortification on the L.S.
	12

15th.. of October Monday 1804—

rained all last night, we Set out early and proceeded on at
3 miles passed an Indn. Camp (of hunters Ricaras) on the S.S.
we halted above and about 30 of the Indians came over in
their canoos of Skins, we eate with them, they give us meat,
in return we gave fish hooks & some beeds, about a mile
higher we came too on the L.S. at the camp of the Recores
(ricaras) of about 8 Lodges, we also eate and they gave
Some meat, we proceeded on Saw numbers of Indians on
both Sides passing a Creek, Saw many curious hills, high and
much the resemblance of a house with a hiped (like ours) roof,
at 12 oClock it cleared away and the evening was pleasent,
wind from the N.E. at Sunset we arrived at a Camp of
Recares of 10 Lodges on the S.S. we came too and camped
near them Capt. Lewis and my self went with the Chief who
accompanis us, to the Huts of Several of the men all of
whome Smoked & gave us something to eate also Some meat
to take away, those people were kind and appeared to be
much plsd. at the attentioned paid them.

Those people are much pleased with my black Servent.
Their womin verry fond of carressing our men &c.

Course Distance & Reffurences—15th Oct

       

West	2 1/2	Miles to a Creek on the L.S. passing over a Sand bar makeing from the S. pt.
North	4	Miles to a point of wood on the L.S. passing over a sand point on the S.S.
N. 34° W.	31/2	Miles to a point of wood on the S.S. passing old Village of the Shăr há or Chien Indians on the L.S. below a Creek on the same Side. passed a Camp 10 of Ricares on S.S.
	10

16th.. of October Tuesday 1804—

Some rain this morning, 2 young squars verry anxious to
accompany us, we Set out with out Chief on board by name
Ar ke tar na shar or Chief of the Town, a little above our
camp on the L.S. passed a circular work, where the, Shăr há
or Chien, or Dog Indians formerly lived a short distance
above passed a Creek which we call Chien Creek (Chayenne or
Shar ha (Mr Hayley says Not Chien), above is a willow Island
Situated near (1) the L. Side a large Sand bar above & on
both Sides (2) passed a Creek above the Island on the L.S.
call So-harch (or Girls) Creek, at 2 miles higher up (3) passed
a Creek on L.S. call Charpart[39] (or womins) Creek, passed
(5) an Island Situated in a bend to the S.S. this Isd. is about
1 1/2 Miles long, covered with timber Such as Cotton wood,
opsd. the lower point a creek coms in on [sentence incomplete
—Ed.] the S.S. called by the Indians Kee tooch Sar
kar nar [Keetooshsahawna—Biddle] (or place of Beaver)
above the Island a small river coms in about 35 yards wide
called War ra con ne[40] or (Elk Shed their horns). The Island
is called Carp Island by Ivens [Evans] Wind hard from the
N.W. Saw great numbers of Goats on the Shore S.S. proceeded
on Capt. Lewis & the Indian Chief walked on Shore,
soon after I discovered great numbers of Goats in the river,
and Indians on the Shore on each Side, as I approached or

got nearer I discovered boys in the water Killing the goats
with Sticks and halling them to Shore, Those on the banks
Shot them with arrows and as they approachd. the Shore would
turn them back of this Gangue of Goats I counted 58 of
which they had killed on the Shore, one of our hunters out
with Cap Lewis killed three Goats, we passed the Camp on
the S.S. and proceeded 1/2 mile and camped on the L.S.
many Indians came to the boat to See, Some came across
late at night, as they approach they hollowed and Sung,
after Staying a short time 2 went for Some meat, and returned
in a Short time with fresh & Dried Buffalow, also goat, those
Indians Stayed all night, they Sung and was verry merry the
greater part of the night.

Course Distance & reffurences —16th Oct

           

North	4	Miles to a pt. on the S.S. Passed a Willow Island L. S. (1) a Creek (2) above the Isd. & one at 2 miles further (3)
N. 10°. E.	6.	Miles to the upper point of Some Timber on the L.S. opsd. the mouth of a Creek on the S.S. (4) passed a Isld. on the S.S. (5) opsd. the Lower pt. of which comes in a Creek (5)
North	1/2	Mile on the L. Side
N. 30°. W.	1	Ml. on the L. point High Ld.
N. 38°. W.	3	Miles to a point on the S.S.
	14 1/2

Course Distance & reffurence.—17th. Oct.

         

N. 10°. E.	1 1/2	Miles to a pt. on the L.S.
North	1/2	ml. on the L.S.
N. 10°. W.	1/2	Ml. on the L.S.
N. 33°. W.	3 1/2	Mls. to the Commencement of Some woods on the S.S.
	6

☞ note from the Ricares to the River Jacque near N.E.
is about 40 mls. to the Chien a fork of R Rogue[41] . 20 (further)
passing the Souix River near the Chien this from information
of Mr. Graveline who passed through this Countrey.

17th.. of October Wednesday 1804.—

Set out early a fine morning the wind from the N.W.
after brackfast I walked on Shore with the Indian Chief &
Interpeters, Saw Buffalow, Elk and Great numbers of Goats
in large gangues (I am told by Mr. G. that those animals
winter in the Black Mountains to feed on timber &c.) and this
is about the Season they cross from the East of the Missouries
to go to that Mountain, they return in the Spring and pass
the Missouries in great numbers (to the plains). This Chief
tells me of a number of their Treditions about Turtles, Snakes,
&c. and the power of a perticeler rock or Cove on the next
river which informs of every thing none of those I think
worth while mentioning. The wind So hard a head the [boat]
could could not move after 10 oClock. Capt. Louis took the
altitude of the Sun Latd. 46° 23′. 57″ I killed 3 Deer, and
the hunters with me killed 3 also, the Indian Shot one but
could not get it, I scaffeled[42] up the Deer & returned & met
the boat after night on the L.S. about 6 miles above the place
we camped last night. one of the men saw a number of
Snakes, Capt. Lewis Saw a large Beaver house S.S. I cought
a whipprwill Small & not common.[43] the leaves are falling
fast. the river wide and full of Sand bars. Great numbers of
verry large Stone on the Sides of the hills & some rock of a
brownish Colour in the Ld. Bend below this.

Great numbers of Goats are flocking down to the S. Side of
the river, on their way to the Black mountains where they
winter Those animals return in the Spring in the Same way
& scatter in different directions.

18th.. of October Thursday 1804—

Set out early proceeded on at 6 mls. passed the mouth of
(1) la [Le] Boulet (or Cannon Ball River) about 140 yards
wide on the L.S. this river heads in the Court Noi or Black

Mountains (a fine Day) above the mouth of the river Great
numbers of Stone perfectly round with fine Grit are in the
Bluff and on the Shore, the river takes its name from those
Stones which resemble Cannon Balls. The water of this
river is confined within 40 yards. We met 2 frenchmen in
a perogue Decending from hunting, & complained of the
Mandans robing them of 4 Traps their furs & Several other
articles. Those men were in the imploy of our Ricaree interpeter
Mr. Gravelin the[y] turned & followered us.

Saw Great numbers of Goats on the S.S. comeing to the
river our hunters Killed 4 of them Some run back and
others crossed & proceded on their journey to the Court Nou
at (3) passed a Small River called Che Wah or fish river[44] on
the S.S. this river is about 28 yards wide and heads to the
N.E. passed a small creek on the L.S. 1 mile above the last,
and camped on a sand bar on the L.S. opposit to us we Saw
a Gangue of Buffalow bulls which we did not think worth
while to kill. our hunters killed 4 Coats [Goats] 6 Deer
4 Elk & a pelican & informs that they Saw in one gang: 248
Elk, (I walked on Shore in the evening with a view to see
Some of those remarkable places mentioned by evins [Evans
—Ed.], none of which I could find). The Countrey in this
Quarter is Generally leavel & fine Some high Short hills, and
some ragid ranges of Hills at a Distance

Course Distance & Refferences—18th Oct

             

N. 50°. W.	3	Miles to the mouth of a River (1) cannon ball L.S.
N. 20°. W.	2	Miles to a point of wood land on the S.S. passing a Bluff in which theres round stone (2)
North	2 1/2	miles to a point of wood land on the L.S.
N. 15°. W.	1/2	Mile on the L.S. opsd. a Creek on the S.S. (3)
N. 10°. E.	2 1/2	miles to a point on the S.S. passing a small Creek on L.S.
N. 20°. E.	3	miles to a point of woods on the L.S. passing over a Sand bar
	13

☞ The recaree Indians inform us that they find no black
tail Deer as high up as this place, those we find are of the fallow
Deer kind

☞ The recarees are not fond of Spiritous liquers, nor do
they apper to be fond of Receiveing any or thankfull for it.
[they say we are no friends or we would not give them what makes
them fools].

19th.. October Friday 1804.—

a fine morning wind from the S.E. we Set out early under
a gentle Breeze and proceeded on verry well, more timber
than common on the banks on this part of the river. passed
a large Pond on the S.S. I walked out on the Hills & observed
Great numbers of Buffalow feeding on both Sides of the river
I counted 52 Gangues of Buffalow & 3 of Elk at one View,
all the runs which come from the high hills which is Generally
about one or 2 miles from the water is brackish and near the
Hills (the Salts are) and the Sides of the Hills & edges of the
Streems, [the mineral salts appear] I saw Some remarkable
round hills forming a cone at top one about 90 foot one 60 &
several others Smaller, the Indian Chief say that the Callemet
bird[45] live in the holes of those hills, the holes form by the
water washing [away] this Some parts in its passage Down
from the top—near one of those noles [Knolls], on a point
of a hill 90 feet above the lower plane I observed the remains
of an old village, (high, strong, watchtower &c.) which had been
fortified, the Indian Chief with us tels me, a party of Mandins
lived there, [Here first saw ruins of Mandan nation] we
proceeded on & camped on the S.S. opposit the upper of
those conocal hills. our hunters killed 4 Elk 6 Deer & a
pelican, I saw Swans in a Pond & killed a fat Deer in my
walk, Saw about 10 wolves. This day is pleasent

Course Distance & reffurence—19th. Octr.

                 

N. 60°. W.	2 1/2	Mls. to a pt. on the S.S. Passed a Creek on the S.S.
N. 40°. W.	2	Mls. to Some wood in a bend on the L.S.
N. 10°. E.	1 1/2	mile to the point on the L.S.
N. 20°. W.	2	miles to a tree in the bend S.S.
N. 83°. W.	3	miles to the point on the S.S.
N. 44°. W.	1	mile to a Willow point on the L.S. pd. a Lake S.S.
N. 30°. W.	2	miles to a tree in the bend to the S.S.
N. 80°. W.	3 1/2	miles to a point on the S.S. (2) opposit a round nole on the L.S. a Deep bend to the L.S. & pond.
	17 1/2

Courses Distance & Reffers.—20th October

             

N. 30°. W	2	Miles to Some timber in a bend to the S.S. at a Creek (1)
N. 10°. W.	1	mile on the S.S.
N. 54°. W.	3	miles to a pt. on the L.S. Isd). passing over a Sand bar S. S.
N.	2	miles to some high trees in a bend on the S.S. passing the lowrp.t Is.d. (2)
N. 70° W.	2	Miles to a pt. on the S.S. passing the upper pt. of the Island on the L.S.
N. 50°. W	2	Mls. to the upper part of Bluff in which there (3) is Stone Cole on the L.S. passing the Ist old Mandin Village on the L.S. (4)
	12

20th.. of October Satturday 1804—

Set out early this morning and proceeded on the wind from
the S.E. after brackfast I walked out on the L. Side to See
those remarkable places pointed out by Evins, I. saw an old
remains of a village (covering 6 or 8 acres) on the Side of a hill
which the Chief with Too né tels me that nation lived in 2 [a
number] villages 1 on each Side of the river and the Troublesom
Seaux caused them to move about 40 miles higher up
where they remained a fiew years & moved to the place they
now live, (2) passed a small Creek on the S.S. (3) and one on
the L. S. passed (4) a Island covered with willows laying
in the middle of the river no current on the L.S. Camped on
the L.S. above a Bluff containing coal (5) of an inferior quallity,
this bank is imediately above the old Village of the Mandans.
The Countrey is fine, the high hills at a Distance with gradual

assents, I Kild. 3 Deer The Timber confined to the bottoms
as useal which is much larger than below. Great numbers of
Buffalow Elk & Deer, Goats. our hunters killed 10 Deer &
a Goat to day and wounded a white Bear,[46] I saw several fresh
tracks of those animals which is 3 times as large as a mans
track. The wind hard all Day from the N.E. & East, great
numbers of buffalow Swimming the river I observe near all
large gangues of Buffalow wolves and when the buffalow move
those animals follow, and feed on those that are killed by
accident or those that are too pore or fat to keep up with the
gangue.

21st.. October Sunday 1804—

a verry Cold night wind hard from the N.E. Some rain
in the night which frosed as it fell at Day light it began to
Snow and continued all the fore part of the Day passed just
above our camp (1) a Small river on the L. S. called by
the Indians Chiss-che-tar [Chisshetaw— BIDDLE] this river is
about 38 yards wide containing a good Deel of water[47] Some
distance up this River is Situated a Stone which the Indians
have great faith in & say they See painted on the Stone, all
the Calemetes & good fortune to hapin the nation & parties
who visit it. a tree [an oak] which Stands [alone] near this
place [about 2 miles off] in the open prarie which has withstood
the fire they pay Great respect to make Holes and tie Strings
thro [the skins of their] their necks and around this tree to
make them brave [Capt. Clarke saw this tree] (all this is the
information of Too ne [is a whipperwill] the Cheif of the Ricares
who accompanied us to the Mandins, at 2 Miles (2) passed
the 2nd. Village of the Mandins which was in existance at the
same time with the 1st. this Village is at the foot of a hill on
the S.S. in a butifull & extensive plain, (nearly opposite is another

village in a bottom the other side of Missouri) at this time covered
with Buffalow. a cloudy afternoon, I killed a fine Buffalow,
we camped on the L. S. (below an old Mandan village having
passed another up a Creek 3 miles below on Sd. S. verry cold
Ground covered with Snow. one orter [otter] killd.

Course Distance & reffers.—21st. Oct.

       

S.80°. E.	2	miles to the place the Mandans had a village formerly at the foot of a riseing part of the plain. (1) on the S. S. passed a river
N. 16°. W.	1 1/2	miles to a grove on the S. S.
N. 40°. W.	3 1/2	Miles to a pt. on the S. S. river wide and sand bars a large willow Island.
	7

22nd. October Monday 1804—

last night at 1 oClock I was violently and Suddenly attacked
with the Rhumetism in the neck which was So violent I could
not move Capt. [Lewis] applied a hot Stone raped in flannel,
which gave me some temporey ease. We Set out early, the
morning Cold at 7 oClock we came too at a camp of Teton
Seaux on the L. S. those people 12 in number were nackd.[48]
and had the appearance of war, we have every reason to
believe that they are going or have been to Steel Horses from
the Mandins, they tell two Stories, we gave them nothing
after takeing brackfast proceeded on. my Neck is yet verry
painfull at times Spasms. (Passed old Ma[n]dan village near
which we lay, another at 4 miles, one at 8 miles at mouth of large
creek 4 miles further all on Larboard side.) (The mounds, 9 in
number along river within 20 miles the fallen down earth of the
houses, some teeth and bones of men & animals mixed in these villages,
human skulls are scattered in these villages)

Camped on the L. Side, passed an Island Situated on the
L. Side at the head of which we pass a bad place & Mandans
village S.S. (2 miles above). The hunters killed a buffalow

bull, they Say out of about 300 buffalow which they Saw,
they did not, see one Cow. Great Deel of Beaver Sign.
Several Cought every night.

Course Distance & Reffurence—22d Oct

           

N. 50°. W	3	Miles to a pt. on the S. S.
N. 34° W.	3	Miles to the lower point on an Island on the L. S.
N. 34°. W.	3	Miles to a pt. on the S. S. passed a bad riffle or bar
North	1	Mile to a point on the L. S. a Deep bend to the S. S.
N. 24°. W	2	miles to a point on the S. Side.
	12

23rd.. of October Tuesday 1804—

a cloudy morning Some Snow Set out early, pass five
Lodges which was Diserted, the fires yet burning we Suppose
those were the Indians who robed the 2 french Trappers a fiew
days ago those 2 men are now with us going up with a view
to get their property from the Indians thro. us. Cold & cloudy
camped on the L. S. of the river[49]

(Saw at 12 miles passed old village on S. S. of Maharha * Indns., a
band of Minnetarréas who now live between Mands & Minnetarres)
(* Ah na ha wa's [Ahwahaways—Biddle] see note 10
May 1805)

Course Distance & reffurences

             

N. 45°. E	2	Miles to a Tree in the bend S. S.
N. 18°. W.	1 1/2	Mls. to High land on S. S.
N. 65°. W.	3	Mls to a tree in the bend L. S.
N. 33°. W.	2 1/2	Mls. to a pt. on the L. S.
N. 18°. W.	1	mile on the L. S.
N. 45°. W.	3	Miles to a point on the S. S. passing as common many Sand bars
	13

Course Distance & reffurences—24th Oct.

         

N. 20°. W.	1	Mile to a pt. on the S. S.
N. 10°. W.	2	Miles to a pt. on the L. S. at this place the river has laterly Cut thro forming a large Island to the S. S. (1)
N. 35°. W.	2	Miles to an object on the S. S.
N. 64°. W.	2	Miles to a point of high land on which the Mandins formerly lived (2)
	7

24th. October Wednesday 1804—

Set out early a cloudy day Some little Snow in the morning
I am Something better of the Rhumitism in my neck. a butifull
Countrey on both Sides of the river. the bottoms covd.
with wood, we have Seen no game on the river to day—a
prof of the Indians hunting in the neighbourhood (1) passed
a Island on the S. S. made by the river Cutting through a
point, by which the river is Shortened Several miles. on this
Isld. we Saw one of the Grand Chiefs of the Mandins, with five
Lodges hunting, this Chief met the Chief of the Ricares who
accompanied us with great Cordiallity & serimony Smoked the
pipe & Capt. Lewis with the Interpeter went with the Chiefs to
his Lodges at 1 mile distant, after his return we admited the
Grand Chief & his brother for a few minits on our boat. proceeded
on a Short distance and camped on the S. S. below the
old village of the Mandins & ricares.[50] Soon after our land'g
4 mandins came from a camp above, the Ricares Chief went
with them to their Camp,

Course Distance & Reffurences—25th.. of October.

             

N. 80°. W.	3	Miles to a pt. on the L. Side passed an old Village (1)
West	1	Mile on the L. Side
S. 80°. W.	1	Mile on the L. Side
S. 60. W.	2	Miles to a pt. on the L. Side
S. 30°. W.	2	Miles to a Tree on the Larboard Side
S. 33°. W.	2	Miles to a point on the Starboard Side opposit a high hill
	11

25th.. of October Thursday 1804.—

a cold morning. Set out early under a gentle Breeze from
the S. E. by E. proceeded on, passed (1) the 3rd. old Village
of the Mandans which has been Desd. for many years, This
village was situated on an eminance of about 40 foot above the
water on the L. S. back for Several miles is a butifull Plain
(2) at a Short distance above this old Village on a Continuation
of the same eminance was Situated the Ricares Village (two ola
villages of ricaras one on top of high hill the 2d below in the bottom.)
which has been avacuated only Six (five) years, (about 3 or 4

miles above Ricaras villages are 3 old villages of Mandanes near
together here they lived when the R's came for protection —afterwards
moved where they now live.) above this Village a large and
extensive bottom for Several miles in which the Squars raised
ther Corn, but little timber near the Villages, on the S. S.
below is a point of excellent timber, and in the point Several
miles above is fine timber, Several parties of Mandins rode
to the river on the S. S. to view us indeed they are continuelly
in Sight Satisfying their Curiossities as to our apperance
&c. We are told that the Seaux has latterly fallen in with &
Stole the horses of the Big bellies,[51] on their way home they
fell in with the Ossiniboin who killed them and took the
horses. a frenchman has latterly been killed by the Indians
on the Track to the tradeing establishment on the Ossinebine
R. in the North of this place (or British fort) This frenchman
has lived many years with the Mandins. we were frequently
called on to land & talk to parties of the Mandins on the
Shore; wind Sfifted to the S. W at about 11 oClock and
blew hard untill 3 oClk. clouded up river full of Sand bars
& we are at a great loss to find the channel of the river, frequently
run on the Sand bars which Delais us much passed
a verry bad riffle of rocks in the evening by takeing the L. S.
of a sand bar[52] and camped on a Sand point on the S. S.
opposit a high hill on the L. S. Several Indians came to see
us this evening, amongst others the Sun of the late Great Chief
of the Mandins (mourning for his father), this man has his two
little fingers off; on inquireing the cause, was told it was
customary for this nation to Show their greaf by some testimony
of pain, and that it was not uncommon for them to take
off 2 Smaller fingers of the hand (at the 2d joints) and some
times more with other marks of Savage effection

The wind blew verry hard this evening from the S.W. verry
cold R. Fields with the Rhumitism in his neck, P. Crusat
with the Same complaint in his Legs —the party other wise
is well, as to my self I feel but slight Simptoms of that disorder
at this time,

26th. of October Friday 1804—

Set out early wind from the S. W. proceeded on saw
numbers of the Mandins on Shore, we set the Ricare Chief
on Shore, and we proceeded on to the Camp of two of their
Grand Chiefs where we delayed a fiew minits, with the Chiefs
and proceeded on takeing two of their Chiefs on board & Some
of the heavy articles of his house hold, Such as earthen pots &
Corn, proceeded on, at this Camp Saw a (Mr.) Mc Cracken
Englishmon from the N.W. (Hudson Bay) Company[53] this man
Came nine Days ago to trade for horses & Buffalow robes,—
one other man came with him. the Indians continued on the
banks all day. but little wood on this part of the river, many
Sand bars and bad places, water much devided between them

We came too and camped on the L. S. about 1/2 a mile
below the 1st. Mandin Town on the L. S.[54] soon after our
arrival many men womin & children flocked down to See us,
Capt. Lewis walked to the village with the principal Chiefs and
our interpters, my Rhumatic complaint increasing I could
not go. if I was well only one would have left the Boat &
party untill we niew the Disposition of the Inds. I Smoked
with the Chiefs who came after. Those people apd. much
pleased with the Corn Mill which we were obliged to use, &
was fixed in the boat.

Course Distance & reffrs.—26th. Oct.

                 

N. 45°. W.	1	Ml. to a tree in the bend to the Larboard Side
N. 70°. W.	1	Ml to a pt on the S.S.
S. 26. W.	2	Mls. to a Camp of Mandans wood in the bend L.S.
West.	1	Mls. to a tree in bend L.S. passed a Small Creek
N. 27°. W.	3	Mls. to the pt. Fort Mandan stands on Passing a Bluff of indft. Coal L.S.
	8
N. 55°. W.	1	Ml. to a pt. on the L. S.
S. 60°. W.	2-	Mls. to the 1st Village of the Mandins Situated on the L. side in an open Plain.
	11