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Chapter IV

FROM TETON RIVER TO THE MANDANS

IV. Clark's Journal and Orders, September 25—October 26, 1804
Order by Lewis, October 13

[Clark:]

25th. Sept.—

A FAIR Morning the Wind from the S. E. all well,
raised a Flag Staff & made a orning or Shade on a
Sand bar in the mouth of Teton River, for the purpose
of Speeking with the Indians under, the Boat Crew on
board at 70 yards Distance from the bar The 5 Indians
which we met last night Continued, about 11 OClock the
1t. & 2d. Chief Came we gave them Some of our Provisions to
eat, they gave us great Quantitis of Meet Some of which was
Spoiled we feel much at a loss for the want of an interpeter
the one we have can Speek but little.

Met in Council at 12 oClock and after Smokeing, agreeable
to the useal Custom, Cap. Lewis proceeded to Deliver a
Speech which we [were—Ed.] oblige[d] to Curtail for want
of a good interpeter all our party paraded. gave a Medal to
the Grand Chief Calld. in Indian Un ton gar Sar bar in French
Beeffe nure [Beuffle noir] Black Buffalow. Said to be a good
Man, 2[nd] Chief Torto hon gar or the Parti sin or Partizan
bad the 3rd. is the Beffe De Medison [Beuffe de Medecine]
his name is Tar ton gar Wa ker 1[st]. Considerable Man,
War zing go. 2[nd]. Considerable Man Second Bear—Mato
co que par
.

Envited those Cheifs on board to Show them our boat and
such Curiossities as was Strange to them, we gave them 1/4 a
glass of whiskey which they appeared to be verry fond of,
Sucked the bottle after it was out & Soon began to be troublesom,
one the 2d. Cheif assumeing Drunkness, as a Cloake for
his rascally intentions I went with those Cheifs (in one of the


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Perogues with 5 men3 & 2 Inds.) (which left the boat with
great reluctiance) to Shore with a view of reconsileing those
men to us, as Soon as I landed the Perogue three of their
young Men Seased the Cable of the Perogue, (in which we had
pressents
&c) the Chiefs Soldr. [each Chief has a soldier] Huged
the mast, and the 2d. Chief was verry insolent both in words &
justures (pretended Drunkenness & staggered up against me) declareing
I should not go on, Stateing he had not receved
presents sufficent from us, his justures were of Such a personal
nature I felt My self Compeled to Draw my Sword (and
Made a Signal to the boat to prepare for action
) at this Motion
Capt. Lewis ordered all under arms in the boat, those with
me also Showed a Disposition to Defend themselves and me,
the grand Chief then took hold of the roap & ordered the
young Warrers away, I felt My Self warm & Spoke in verry
positive terms.

Most of the Warriers appeared to have ther Bows strung
and took out their arrows from the quiver. as I (being surrounded)
was not permited (by them) to return, I Sent all the
men except 2 Inps. [Interpreters] to the boat, the perogue
Soon returned with about 12 of our determined men ready for
any event. this movement caused a no: of the Indians to withdraw
at a distance, (leaving their chiefs & soldiers alone with me).
Their treatment to me was verry rough & I think justified
roughness on my part, they all lift my Perogue, and Councild.
with themselves the result I could not lern and nearly all
went off after remaining in this Situation Some time I offered my
hand to the 1. & 2. Chiefs who refusd. to receve it. I turned off
& went with my men on board the perogue, I had not prosd.
more the [than] 10 paces before the 1st. Cheif 3rd. & 2 Brave
Men Waded in after me. I took them in & went on board[1]

We proceeded on about 1 Mile & anchored out off a
Willow Island placed a guard on Shore to protect the Cooks
& a guard in the boat, fastened the Perogues to the boat, I
call this Island bad humered Island as we were in a bad humer.


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Course Distance & reffurences—26th. Sept. 1804 badhd. Isd.

 
N. 28° W.  4 1/2  Miles to a p t.on the L. S. passing a Small Willow
Island at 1 1/2 Miles & Several Sand bars the
Water Shallow came too (1)
 
 
[1]

This paragraph is misplaced in the MS.; it is written on the next page after that
containing the first part of this council with the Indians. We have placed it in
proper position.—Ed.

26th. of September Wednesday 1804—

Set out early proceeded on and Came to by the Wish of
the Chiefs for to let their Squars [squaws] & boys see the
Boat and Suffer them to treat us well great numbers of men
womin & children on the banks viewing us, these people
Shew great anxiety, they appear Spritely, Generally ill looking
& not well made their legs [& arms] Small generally, [high
cheek bones, prominent eyes
] they Grese & Black [paint]
themselves [with coal] when they dress [the distingd. men]
make use of a hawks feathers [Calumet feather adorned with
porcupine quills & fastened to the top of the head & falls backwards
]
about their heads. the men [wear] a robe & each a
polecats Skin, for to hold ther Bawe roley [Bois roule] for
Smoking,[2] fond of Dress & Show badly armed with fusees,
&c. The Squaws are Chearfull fine look'g womin not handsom,
High Cheeks Dressed in Skins a Peticoat and roab
which foldes back over ther Sholder, with long wool, do all
their laborious work & I may Say perfect Slaves to the Men,
as all Squars of Nations much at War, or where the Womin
are more noumerous than the men[3] after Comeing too Capt.
Lewis & 5 men went on Shore with the Cheifs, who appeared
disposed to make up & be friendly, after Captain Lewis had
been on Shore about 3 hours I became uneasy for fear of
Deception & Sent a Serjeant to See him and know his treatment
which he reported was friendly, & they were prepareing
for a Dance this evening The[y] made frequent Selicitiations
for us to remain one night only and let them Show their good


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disposition towards us, we deturmined to remain, after the
return of Capt. Lewis, I went on Shore on landing I was
receved on a elegent painted B.[uffalo] Robe & taken to the
Village by 6 Men & was not permited to touch the ground
untill I was put down in the grand Concill house on a White
dressed Robe. I saw Several Maha Prissners and Spoke to
the Chiefs [telling them that—Ed.] it was necessary to give
those prisoners up & become good friends with the Mahas if
they wished to follow the advice of their great father I was
in Several Lodges neetly formed as before mentioned as to
the Baureily (Bois brulé—Yankton) Tribe. I was met (on
landing from the boat
) by about 10 Well Dressd. young Men
who took me up in a roabe Highly adecreated and Set me
Down by the Side of their Chief on a Dressed Robe in a large
Council House, this house formed a 3/4 Circle of Skins Well
Dressed and Sown together under this Shelter about 70 Men
Set forming a Circle in front of the Cheifs a plac of 6 feet
Diameter was Clear and the pipe of peace raised on (forked)
Sticks (about 6 or 8 inches from the ground) under which there
was swans down scattered, on each Side of this Circle two
Pipes, the (two) flags of Spain 2 & the Flag we gave them
in front of the Grand Chief a large fire was near in which
provisions were Cooking, in the Center about 400lbs. of excellent
Buffalo Beef as a present for us. Soon after they Set me
Down, the Men went for Capt. Lewis brought him in the
same way and placed him also by the Chief in a fiew minits
an old man rose & Spoke aproveing what we had done &
informing us of their situation requesting us to take pity on
them & which was answered. The great Chief then rose with
great State [speaking—Ed.] to the Same purpote as far as
we Could learn & then with Great Solemnity took up the pipe
of Peace & after pointing it to the heavins the 4 quarters of
the Globe & the earth, he made Some disertation, (then made a
Speech
) lit it and presented the Stem to us to Smoke, when
the Principal Chief Spoke with the Pipe of Peace he took in
one hand some of the most Delicate parts of the Dog which
was prepared for the fiest & made a Sacrefise to the flag. [this
sentence misplaced in MS., but properly placed by us.—Ed.]

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after A Smoke had taken place, & a Short Harange to his
people, we were requested to take the Meal (& then put before
us the dog which they had been cooking, & Pemitigon
[4] & ground
potatoe in Several platters Pemn. is Buffa meat dried or jerked
pounded & mixed with grease raw. Dog Sioux think great dish
used on festivals eat little of dog—pemn. & pote good
.) We
Smoked for an hour (till) Dark & all was Cleared away a
large fire made in the Center, about 10 Musitions playing on
tambereens (made of hoops & Skin stretched), long Sticks with
Deer & Goats Hoofs tied so as to make a gingling noise, and
many others of a Similer Kind, those Men began to Sing, &
Beet on the Tamboren, the Women Came foward highly
Deckerated in their Way, with the Scalps and Tropies of War
of their fathers Husbands Brothers or near Connections &
proceeded to Dance the War Dance (Women only dance jump
up & down—five or six young men selected accompanied with
songs the tamborin making the song extempore words & music
every now & then one of the com' come out & repeat some exploit
in a sort of song—this taken up by the young men and the women
dance to it
) which they done with great Chearfullness untill
about 12 oClock when we informed the Cheifs that they were
[must be] fatigued [amusing us] &c. they then retired & we
Accompd. by 4 Cheifs returned to our boat, they Stayed with
us all night. Those people have Some brave men which they
make use of as Soldiers those men attend to the police of the
Village Correct all errors I saw one of them to day whip
2 Squars, who appeared to have fallen out, when he approachd.
all about appeared to flee with great turrow [terror].
at night they keep two 3,4 5 men at different Distances walking
around Camp Singing the accurrunces of the night

All the Men on board 100 paces from Shore Wind from
the S. E. moderate one man verry sick on board with a
Dangerass Abscess on his Hip. All in Spirits this evening.

In this Tribe I saw 25 Squars and Boys taken 13 days ago
in a battle with the Mahars in this battle they Destroyd 40
Lodges, Killed 75 Men, & som boys & Children, & took 48


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Prisoners Womin & boys which they promis both Capt. Lewis
and my self Shall be Delivered up to Mr. Durion at the Bous
rulie (Bois brulé) Tribe,[5] those are a retched and Dejected
looking people the Squars appear low & Corse but this is an
unfavourable time to judge of them

We gave our Mahar inteptr. some fiew articles to give those
Squars in his name Such as Alls, needles &c. &c.

I saw & eat Pemitigon the Dog, Groud. potatoe made into a
Kind of homney, which I thought but little inferior. I also
Saw a Spoon Made of a horn of an Animell of the Sheep
Kind (the mountain ram of Argalia[6] ) the Spoon will hold 2
quarts.

 
[2]

Bais roulé, litenily "rolled wood,"—better known by its Algonkin name,
Kinikinik (Kinnikinnic),—a mixture of tobacco with scrapings or shavings from
warious, woods, especialy that of sumac, red osier, and other dogwoods, and bearberry.
Ed

[3]

Biddle describes in much greater detail (i, pp. 84–90) the costumes and mode
of life of these Teton Indians.—Ed.

[4]

Better known as "pemmican,"—Ed.

[5]

One of the bands of the Teton Sioux.—Ed.

[6]

The Rocky Mountain sheep or argal (Ovis montana.)—Ed.

27th. of Sept. Thursday 1804.—

I rose early after a bad nights Sleep found the Chief [s]
all up, and the bank as useal lined with Spectators we gave
the 2 great Cheifs a Blanket a peace, or rether they took off
agreeable to their Custom the one they lay on and each one
Peck of corn. after Brackfast Capt. Lewis & the Cheifs went
on Shore, as a verry large part of their nation was comeing in,
the Disposition of whome I did not know one of us being
sufficent on Shore, I wrote a letter to Mr. P. Durion & prepared
a meadel & Some Comsns. (Certificates) & Sent to Cap
Lewis at 2 oClock Capt. Lewis Returned with 4 Chiefs & a
Brave Man (Consids Man) named War cha pa or on his Guard
when the friends of those people [the Scioux] die they run
arrows through their flesh above and below their elbows as a
testimony of their Greaf.

after Staying about half an hour, I went with them on Shore,
Those men left the boat with reluctience, I went first to the
2d. Cheifs Lodge, where a croud came around after Speeking
on various Subjects I went to a princpal mans lodge from
them to the grand Chiefs lodge, after a fiew minits he invited
me to a Lodge within the Circle in which I Stayed with all
their principal Men untill the Dance began, which was Similer
to the one of last night performed by their women with poles


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(in their hands) on which Scalps of their enemies were hung,
Some with the Guns Spears & War empliments of (taken by)
their husbands [&c.] in their hands.

Capt. Lewis Came on Shore and we Continued untill we were
Sleepy & returned to our boat, the 2nd. Chief & one principal
Man accompanied us, Those two Indians accompanied me
on board in the Small Perogue; Capt. Lewis with a guard Still
on Shore, the man who Steered not being much acustomed to
Steer, passed the bow of the boat & the peroge Came broad
Side against the Cable & broke it which obliged me to order
in a loud voice all hands up & at their ores, my preemptry
order to the men and the bustle of their getting to their ores
allarmd. the Cheifs, together with the appearance of the Men
on Shore, as the boat turnd. The Cheif hollowaed & allarmed
the Camp or Town informing them that the Mahars was about
attacking us (them). In about 10 minits the bank was lined
with men armed the 1st. Cheif at their head, about 200 men
appeared and after about 1/2 hour returned all but about 60
men who continued on the bank all night, the Cheifs Contd.
all night with us. This allarm I as well as Capt. Lewis Considered
as the Signal of their intentions (which was to Stop our
proceeding on our journey and if Possible rob us) we were
on our Guard all night, the misfortune of the loss of our
Anchor obliged us to Lay under a falling bank much exposd.
to the accomplishment of their hostile intentions. P. C. our
Bowman who cd. Speek Mahar informed us in the night that
the Maha Prisoners informed him we were to be Stoped. we
Shew as little Sighns of a Knowledge of their intentions as
possible all prepared on board for any thing which might
hapen, we kept a Strong guard all night in the boat, no Sleep

28th. of September 1804. Friday

Made many attemps in different ways to find our anchor,
but Could not, the Sand had Covered it, from the Misfortune
of last night our boat was laying at Shore in a verry unfavourable
Situation, after finding that the anchor Could not be
found we deturmined to proceed on, with great difficuelty got


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the Chiefs out of our boat, and when we was about Setting out
the Class Called the Soldiers took possession of the Cable
the 1st. Cheif which was Still on board, & intended to go a
Short distance up with us. I told him the men of his nation
Set on the Cable, he went out & told Capt. Lewis who was
at the bow the men Who Set on the roap was Soldiers, and
wanted Tobacco Capt. L. [said] would not agree to be forced
into any thing, the 2d. Chief Demanded a flag & Tobacco
which we refusd. to Give Stateing proper reasons to them for
it after much Dificuelty—which had nearly reduced us to
necessity to hostilites I threw a Carrot of Tobacco to 1st.
Chief took the port fire from the gunner. Spoke so as to
touch his pride The Chief gave the Tobacco to his Soldiers
& he jurked the rope from them and handed it to the bowsman
we then Set out under a Breeze from the S. E. about 2 miles
up we observed the 3rd. Chief on Shore beckining to us we
took him on board he informed us the roap was held by the
order of the 2d. Chief who was a Double Spoken man, Soon
after we Saw a man Comeing full Speed, thro: the plains left
his horse & proceeded across a Sand bar near the Shore we
took him on board & observed that he was the Son of the
Chief we had on board we Sent by him a talk to the nation
Stateint [stating] the cause of our hoisting the red flag undr. the
white, if they were for peace Stay at home & do as we
had Directed them, if the[y] were for war or were Deturmined
to stop us we were ready to defend our Selves, we halted one
houre & 1/2 on the S. S. & made a Substitute of Stones for
a ancher, refreshed our men and proceeded on about 2 Miles
higher up & Came to a verry Small Sand bar in the middle
of the river & Stayed all night, I am verry unwell for want
of Sleep Deturmined to Sleep to night if possible, the Men
Cooked & we rested well.

Course Distance & reffs.

     
N. 33 W.  Miles to the extmty of a Sand bar on the L. S. passed
a Willow Isld. on the L. S. at the Comse. of the Course.
 
S. 80° W.  Mls. to an object on the bank in a bend to the S. S. at
Some woods, opsd. the High land on the L. S. Camped.
 

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29th. of Septr. Satturday 1804.—

Set out early Some bad Sand bars, proceeded on at 9
oClock we observed the 2d. Chief & 2 principal Men one Man
& a Squar on Shore, they wished to go up with us as far as
the other part of their band, which they Said was on the river
a head not far Distant we refused Stateing verry Sufficint
reasons and was Plain with them on the Subject, they were
not pleased observed that they would walk on Shore to the Place
we intended to Camp to night, we observed it was not our wish
that they Should for if they did we Could not take them or
any other Tetons on board except the one we had now with us
who might go on Shore whenever he pleased. they proceeded
on, the Chief on board askd. for a twist[7] of Tobacco for those
men we gave him 1/2 of a twist, and Sent one by them for
that part of their band which we did not See, & Continued on
Saw great numbers of Elk at the mouth of a Small Creek
Called No timber C—as no timber appeared to be on it
above the mouth of this Creek (a Ricara band of) the Panies
had a Village 5 years ago, (no remains but the mound which surrounded
the town
.) The 2d. Cheif came on the Sand bar &
requested we would put him across the river, I Sent a Perogue
& Crossed him & one Man to the S. S. and proceeded on &
Came too on a Sand bar on about 1/2 Mile from the main Shore
& put on it 2 Sentinals Continud all night at anchor (we
Substitute large Stones for anchors in place of the one we lost
all in high Spirits &c.

Course Distance & refference—29 Septr.

             
S. 60°. W.  Mls. to a pt. on S. S. Passing Several Sand bars. 
N. 80° W.  1 1/4  to a tree on L. S. 
N. 16°. E.  2 1/2  to a pt. on S. S. 
N. 8° W.  1 3/4  to the Mouth of a Creek on the L. S. Where the Panias
had a Town.
 
N. 45°. E.  M1s. to a pt. on the L. Side 
N. 25°. E.  1 1/2  Miles to the Lower pt. of a Willow Island[8] in the
middle of the river.
 
11 

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Course Distance & refferrence—30th. Sept.

                 
N. 30° W.  Miles to a tree at the upper pt. of some woods on the
S. S.
 
N. 80°. W.  1 1/2  Miles on the S. S. 
N. 64°. W.  Mls. to a Bush on L. S. 
N. 46°. W.  1 1/2  Mls. on the L. S. 
N. 10. W.  Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. passed Several Sand bars &
the Camp of a Band of Tetons (1)
 
North  Miles to a tree on the S. S. 
N. 24°. W.  Mls. to a pt. on the L. S. 
N. 50° W.  2 1/2  Mls. to the Lower pt. of Pania Island[9] situated in the
midl. of the river (2) 
20 1/2 
 
[7]

The same as the "carrot" mentioned elsewhere.—Ed.

[8]

Now Okobjou.—Ed.

[9]

Now Cheyenne.—Ed.

30th. of Sept. Sunday 1804—

Set out this morning early had not proceeded on far before
we discovered an Indn. running after us, he came up with us
at 7 oClock & requested to come on bord and go up to the
Recorees[10] we refused to take any of that band on board if
he chose to proceed on Shore it was verry Well Soon after
I descovered on the hills at a great distance great numbers of
Indians which appeared to be makeing to the river above us,
we proceeded on under a Double reafed Sail, & some rain at
9 oClock observed a large band of Indians the Same which I
had before seen on the hills incamping on the bank the L. S.
we Came too on a Sand bar Brackfast & proceeded on & Cast
the anchor opposit their Lodge at about 100 yards distant, and
informed the Indians which we found to be a part of the Band
we had before Seen, that (we) took them by the hand and Sent
to each Chief a Carrot of tobacco, as we had been treated
badly by some of the band below, after Staying 2 days for
them, we Could not delay any time, & referred them to Mr.
Durion for a full account of us and to here our Talk Sent by
him to the Tetons, those were verry selicitious for us to land
and eate with them, that they were friendly &c. &c. we appoligised


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& proceeded on,[11] Sent the Peroge to Shore above
with the Tobacco & Delivd. it to a Soldr. of the Chief with us
Several of them ran up the river, the Chfs. on board threw
them out a Small twist of Tobacco & told them to go back &
open ther ears. they rec[e]ved the Tobacco & returned to
their lodges. we saw great numbers of white Guls This day
is Cloudy & rainey. refresh the men with a glass of whisky
after Brackfast.

We Saw about 6 Miles above 2 Indians who Came to the
bank and looked at us about 1/2 an hour & went over the hills
to the S. W. we proceeded on under a verry Stiff Breeze
from the S. E., the Stern of the boat got fast on a log and
the boat turned & was verry near filling before we got her
righted, the waves being verry high, The Chief on board was
So fritened at the Motion of the boat which in its rocking
Caused Several loose articles to fall on the Deck from the
lockers, he ran off and hid himself, we landed, he got his gun
and informed us he wished to return, that all things were
cleare for us to go on, we would not see any more Tetons &c.
we repeated to him what had been Said before, and advised
him to keep his men away, gave him a blanket a Knife & some
Tobacco, Smokd. a pipe & he Set out. We also Set Sale and
Came to at a Sand bar, & Camped, a verry Cold evening, all
on guard.

Course Distance & reffurence—1st. October

           
N. 80° W.  Mls. to the upper pt. of a large Island in the River. (1)[12]  
N. 70° W.  Mls. to the Mouth of Chien or Dog River[13] on the
L.S. (2)[12].
 
N. 16°. W.  2 1/2  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. Passed verry bad Sand
bars
 
N. 50° E.  Mile to Some Willows on the L. S. passed 2 Creeks
on the L. S. the upper Small.
 
S. 53° E.  4 1/2  Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. passing a Bluff on the L.S. 
16 

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Sand bars are So noumerous, that it is impossible to describe
them, & think it unnecessary to mention them.

 
[10]

Otherwise called Ricaree, Ree, or, more correctly, Arikara; Lewis says
("Statistical View," p. 23) that they are "the remains of ten large tribes of Panias
(Pawnees);" and estimates that they then (1806) numbered 500 warriors, or 2,000
souls. Cf. Biddle's account of their migrations (1, 104).—Ed.

[11]

Passed 60 Lodges of Tetons, the remainder of the band.— Clark (memorandum
on p. 225 of Codex C).

[12]

In MS., these figures are misplaced.—Ed.

[13]

Erroneously thus named, from the resemblance of the French word chien (dog) to the tribal name Cheyenne.—Ed.

1st. of October Monday 1804—

The wind blew hard all last night from the S. E. verry cold
Set out early the wind Still hard, passed a large Island in the
middle of the river (1) opsd. the lower point of this Island the
Recrerees formerly lived in a large Town on the L. S. (remains
only a mound circular walls 3 or 4 feet high
) above the head of
the Island about 2 miles we passed the (2) River Chien (or
Dog River) (Chayenne) L. S. this river Comes in from the
S. W. and is about 400 yards wide, the Current appears gentle
throwing out but little Sands, and appears to throw out but
little water the heads of this River is not known (in the second
range of the Côte Noir its course generally about East. So
called from the Chayenne Indians who live on the heads of it
)
a part of the nation of Dog Indians live some distance up this
river, the precise distance I cant learn, above the mouth of
this river the Sand bars are thick and the water Shoal the
river Still verry wide and falling a little we are obliged to
haul the boat over a Sand bar, after makeing Several attempts
to pass. the wind So hard we Came too & Stayed 3 hours
after it Slackened a little we proceeded on round a bend, the
wind in the after part of the Day a head. (2) passed a Creek
on the L. S. which we Call the Sentinal, this part of the river
has but little timber, the hills not so high, the Sand bars more
noumerous, & river more than one mile Wide including the
Sand bars. (2) pass a Small Creek above the latter which we
Call lookout C. Continued on with the wind imediately a head,
and Came too on a large Sand bar in the middle of the river,
we Saw a man opposit to our Camp on the L. S. which we
discovd. to be a Frenchman, a little of [f] (from Shore among)
the Willows we observed a house, we Call to them to come
over, a boy came in a canoe & informed that 2 frenchmen
were at the house with good[s] to trade with the Seauex which
he expected down from the rickerrees everry day, Sever'l
large parties of Seauex Set out from the rees for this place to
trade with those men.


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This Mr. Jon Vallie[14] informs us that he wintered last winter
300 Leagues up the Chien River under the Black mountains,
he informs that this river is verry rapid and dificuelt even for
Perogues [Canoos] to assend and when riseing the Swels is
verry high, one hundred Leagues up it forks one fork
Comes from the S. the other at 40 Leagues above the forks
enters the black Mountain. The Countrey from the Missourie
to the black mountains is much like the Countrey on the
Missourie, less timber. & a great perpotion of Ceder.

The black mountains he Says is verry high, and Some parts
of it has Snow on it in the Summer great quantities of Pine
Grow on the Mountains, a great Noise is heard frequently
on those Mountains". No beever on Dog river, on the
Mountains great numbers of goat, and a kind of anamale
with large circular horns, this animale is nearly the Size of an
[Small] Elk. [Argalea] White bears is also plenty The
Chien (Chayenne) Inds. are about 300 Lodges[15] they inhabit this
river principally, and Steel horses from the Spanish Settlements,
to the S W. this excurtion they make in one month
the bottoms & Sides of R Chien is corse gravel. This frenchman
gives an account of a white booted turkey an inhabitent
of the Cout Noir (Prairie Cock)

 
[14]

Evidently meant for Jean Vallé—probably a relative of the François Vallé who
was commandant at Ste. Genevieve at the time when that post was delivered by the
Spaniards to the United States authorities.—Ed.

[15]

The Cheyenne tribe is (like the Arapaho) of Algonquian stock. Powell thinks
that these savages, having early separated from their kindred at the North, forced their
way through hostile tribes, across the Missouri, into the Black Hills country—thus
locating between the Siouan and the Shoshonean tribes. See Mooney's account of
this tribe, in U. S. Bur. Ethnol. Rep., 1892–93, pp. 1023–1027. —Ed.

1st. of October Monday 1804 at the Mouth of River Chien or Dog R[16]

We proceeded now from the mouth of this river 11 miles
and camped on a Sand bar in the river opposit to a Tradeing
house verry windy & cold. 11 miles above —Chien R[16]


177

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Course Distance and refferrens.—2nd. of Octr.

         
S. 70°. E.  2 1/2  Miles to a wood on the L. Side pass a large Sand bar
in the middle & a Willow Isd. close under the L. S.
 
S. 80° E.  1 1/2  Mls. on the L. S. 
N. 62. E.  Miles on the L. S. a Willow bottom opposit on the S. S. 
N. 15° E.  Miles to the L. Side of an Island Situated near the S. S.
& 1 Ml. above the lower point of the Sd. Island (1)
 
N. 28°. E.  Miles to the pt. of a Sand bar Makeing from the head
12 of the Island & Camped (2)
 
 
[16]

This paragraph is found on p. 2 of Codex C.—Ed.

2nd of October Tuesday 1804—

a Violent wind all night from the S. E. Slackened a little and
we proceeded on Mr. Jon Vallie Came on board and proceeded
on 2 Miles with us, a verry Cold morning Some black Clouds
flying took a Meridian altitude & made the Lattitude 44°
19′ 36″. North this was taken at the upper part of the gouge
of the Lookout bend, the Sentinal heard a Shot over the
hills to the L. S. dureing the time we were Dineing on a large
Sand bar. the after part of this day is pleasant, at 2 oClock
opposit a Wood on the L. S. we observed Some Indians on a
hill on the S. S. one Came down to the river opposit to us
and fired off his gun, & beckend. to us to Come too, we
payed no attention to him he followed on Some distance,
we Spoke a few words to him, he wished us to go a Shore
and to his Camp which was over the hill and Consisted of 20
Lodges,[17] we excused our Selves advised him to go and here
our talk of Mr. Durion, he enquired for traders we informed
him one was in the next bend below. & parted, he returned,
& we proceeded on (1) passed a large Island, on the S.S.
here we expected the Tetons would attempt to Stop us and
under that idear we prepared our selves for action which we
expected every moment. opsd. this Island on the L. S. a Small
Creek Coms in, This Island we call Isd. of Caution[18] we took
in Some wood on a favourable Situation where we Could


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defend our Men on Shore & (2) Camped on a Sand bar 1/2 a
Mile from the main Shore the Wind changed to the N. W.
& rose verry high and Cold which Continud. The Current
of the Missourie is less rapid & Contains much less sediment,
of the Same Colour.

 
[17]

Gass says (p. 68) : "He said he belonged to the Jonkta or Babarole band,"
probably referring to the Yankton.—Ed.

[18]

Now Plum Island.—Ed.

2nd. of October Tuesday 1804[19]

Proceeded on as mentioned in Journal No. 2 twelve miles
camped above a large Island on a Sand bar, verry windy and
cold the after part of this day, the mid day verry warm. The
Lattitude as taken to day is 44° 19′ 36″ observe great caution
this day expecting the Seaux intentions some what hostile
towards our progression, The river not so rapid as below the
Chien, its width nearly the same. 12 miles

3rd of October Wednesday 1804.—Wind blew hard all night from
the N. W. Some rain and verry Cold we Set out at 7 oClock &
proceeded on

         
N. 50° E.  2 1/2  M1s to a pt. of Wood on the L. S. 
N. 54 E  Miles to a tree in a bend S. S. 
North  Miles to a pt. High Land on L. S. wind hard a head
Came too & Dined.
 
N. 22°. W.  4 1/2  Miles to the head of good hope Island. 2 Indians
Came to the mouth of a Creek on the S. S.
 
11  Shields 
 
[19]

This entry is found on p. 2 of Codex C.—Ed.

3rd.. of October Wednesday 1804[20]

The N. W. wind blew verry hard all night with Some rain
a cold morning, we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on
at 12 oclock landed on a Bare L. S. examined the Perogus
& focatle (forecastle) of the (boat) to See if the mice had done
any damage, Several bags cut by them corn scattered &c
Some of our clothes also spoiled by them, and papers &c, &c.
at 1 oClock an Indian came to the bank S. S. with a turkey
on his back, four others Soon joined him, we attempted
several chanels and could not find water to assend, landed on


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a Sand bar & concluded to Stay all night, & Send out and
hunt a chanell, some rain this afternoon. Saw Brant and
white gulls flying Southerly in large flocks.

Course Distance & reffurences. 3 rd

         
N. 50°. E  2 1/2  miles to a point of wood on the Larboard Side. 
N. 54°. E  miles to a tree in the bend to the Larboard Side. 
North  miles to a point of high Land on the Larboard Side. 
N. 22°. W.  1 1/2  miles on the L. Side under a Bluff. 
8 miles 
 
[20]

At this point the journal is continued in Codex C, the last entry therein being
dated April 7, 1805.—Ed.

4th.. of October Thursday 1804—

the wind blew all night from the NW. some rain, we were
obliged to Drop down 3 miles to get the Chanel Suft. deep to
pass up, Several Indians on the Shore viewing of us called
to us to land one of them gave 3 yels & Sciped [skipped] a
all before us, we payed no attention to him, proceeded on
and came too on the L. S. to brackf't one of those Indians
swam across to us beged for Powder, we gave him a piece of
Tobacco & Set him over on a Sand bar, and set out,. the
wind hard ahead (1) passed a Island in the middle of the river
about 3 miles in length, we call Good hope Island, (2) at 4
miles passed a (2) Creek on the L. S. about 12 yards wide
Capt. Lewis and 3 men walked on Shore & crossed over to an
(3) Island situated on the S. S. of the current & near the center
of the river this Isld. is about 1 1/2 miles long & nearly 1/2 as
wide, in the Center of this Island was an old village of the
rickeries called La hoo catt it was circular and walled containing
17 lodges and it appears to have been deserted about five
years, the Island contains but little timber. we camped on
the Sand bar makeing from this Island, the day verry cool

Course Distance & reffurences, 4th.. Octr.

       
N. 18°. W.  8 1/2  miles to a pt. on the S. S. passed an Island Goodhope
in the middle of the river (1)
 
N. 12°. E.  1 1/2  miles on the S. S. passed a creek on the L. S. (2) 
N. 45°. E.  miles on the S. pt. passed an Island on which there
was a Village (3) of Ricreries in the year 1797.
La hoo-catt
 
12 

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5th.. of October, Friday 1804—

Frost this morning, we Set out early and proceeded on
(1) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. at 7 oClock heard
some yels proceeded on Saw 3 Indians of the Teton band,
they called to us to come on Shore, beged Some Tobacco, we
answd. them as useal and proceeded on, passed (2) a Creek on
the S. S. at 3 mls. above the mouth we saw one white Brant
in a gang of about 30, the others all as dark as usial, a Discription
of this kind of Gees or Brant shall be given here after
Saw a gang of Goats Swiming across the river out of which we
killed four they were not fatt. in the evening passed a Small
(3) Island Situated close to the L. Side, at the head of this
Isd. a large Creek coms in on the L. S. saw white Brants, we
call this Creek white Brant Creek. I walked on the Isd. found
it Covered with wild Rye, I Shot a Buck, Saw a large gang
of Goat on the hills opposit, one Buck killed, also a Prarie
wolf this evening. The high Land not so high as below, river
about the Same width, the Sand bars as noumerous, the earth
Black and many of the Bluffs have the Appearance of being
on fire. We came too and camped on a mud bar makeing
from the S. S. the evening is calm and pleasent, refreshed
the men with a glass of whiskey.

Course Distance & reffurences.—5th.. October

               
N. 63°. E.  1 1/2  under Some high land on the S. S. 
East.  miles to a point of Timber on the L. S. passed a
creek on the L. S. (I) high land on the S. S.
 
N. 80 E  1 1/2 mls to a Tree in the bend to the S. S. 
N. 36°. W.  2 mls to a pt. of high land on the L. S. passd a creek on
the S. S. (2) 
N. 50°. W.  miles to a Point to the S. S. 
N. 17°. W.  3 mls to a tree on the S. S. passd. a Small Island close
on the L. S. above the Sd. Island a Creek comes
in on the L. S. 
N. 16°. E.  mls. to a pt. on the L. Side opposit a Willow Island
Situated near the S. Shore 
20 

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6th.. October Satturday 1804.—

a cool morning wind from the North Set out early passed
a willow Island (1) Situated near the S. Shore at the upper
point of Som timber on the S. S. many large round Stones
near the middle of the river, those Stones appear to have been
washed from the hills (2) passed a Village of about 80 neet
Lodges covered with earth and picketed around, those loges
are Spicious [spacious—Ed.] of an Octagon form as close
together as they can possibly be placed and appear to have
been inhabited last Spring, from the Canoes of Skins Mats
buckits &c. found in the lodges, we are of oppinion they were
the recrereis We found Squashes of 3 Different Kinds growing
in the Village, one of our men Killed an Elk close by
this Village, I saw 2 wolves in persute of another which
appeared to be wounded and nearly tired, we proceeded on
found the river Shole we made Several attempts to find the
main Channel between the Sand bars, and was obliged at length
to Drag the boat over to Save a league which we must return
to get into the deepest Channel, we have been obgd. to hunt a
Chanl. for Some time past the river being devided in many
places in a great number of Chanels, Saw Gees, Swan, Brants,
& Ducks of Different Kinds on the Sand bars to day, Capt.
Lewis walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Prarie hens, I
observe but fiew Gulls or Pleover in this part of the river,
The Corvos or Magpye is verry Common in this quarter.
We camped on a large Sand bar off the mouth of Beaver or
Otter Creek, on the S.S. this creek is about 22 yards wide
at the mouth and contains a greater perpotion of Water than
common for creeks of its Sise[21]

Course Distance and Reffurences— 6th Octr.

         
N. 4°. E  miles to a point of woodland on the L. S. passed a
willow Isd. S. S. 
N. 8°. W.  Ml. on the L. Side. 
N. 32°. W.  Ms. to a point on the S. S. Passed an old Village of
the Rickorrees at the Comst. of this Course (2) 
N. 40°. W.  2 1/2  Miles the Mouth of Beaver (otter Creek) on the S.S. 
14 1/2  a large Sand bar opposit 
 
[21]

Now Swan Creek, in Walworth C.—Coues (L. and C., i, p. 155).


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7th of October Sunday 1804—

a Cloudy morning, Some little rain frost last night, we
Set out early proceeded on 2 miles to the mouth of a (1)
River on the L.S. and brackfast this river when full is 90
yards wide the water is at this time Confined within 20 yards,
the Current appears jentle, this river throws out but little
Sand. at the mouth of this river we Saw the Tracks of white
bear which was verry large, I walked up this river a mile.
below the (2) mouth of this river is the remains of a Rickorree
Village or Wintering Camp fortified in a circular form of about
60 Lodges, built in the Same form of those passed yesterday
This Camp appears to have been inhabited last winter, many
of their willow and Straw mats, Baskets & Buffalow Skin
Canoes remain intire within the Camp, the Ricaries call this
river Sur-war-kar-na or Park[22] . [R?]

Course Distance & Reffurences—7th October

                 
N. 42° W.  Miles to the Mouth of a River Caled Sur war car na
in a bend to the L. S. (I) a village at Mo: (2)
 
N. 30° E.  3 1/2  Mls. to a Clump of bushes in a bend to the S. S. passing
for 3/4 mile on the L. S.
 
N. 30° W.  miles to a pt of high land on the L. Side,
passed a willow Island (3)
 
N. 35° W.  on the L. Side passed a Sand bar on the S. S.
(4) 
N. 10° W.  mile on the L. S. to a pt. 
N. 80° W.  miles to the left Side of an Island (5) in the mid river 
N. 45° W.  Mile to the head of the Willows at the head of the S.
Grouse Isld.
 
West  2 1/2  miles to a point on the main S. S. a large Sand bar
from the upper point of the Island high land on
both Sides opposit this Island.
 
22 

from this river (which heads in the 1st. black mountains) we
proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S.W. at
10 oClock we Saw 2 Indians on the S.S. they asked for something
to eat, & informed us they were part of the Beiffs De
Medesons
(Beuffles de Medecines) Lodge on their way to the


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Rickerrees passed (3) a Willow Island in a bend to the S.S.
(4) at 5 Miles passd. a willow Island on the S.S. Wind hard
from the South in the evening I walked on an (5) Island
nearly the middle of the river Called Grous Island, (the walls
of a village on this island
) one of the men killed a Shee
Brarow,[23] another man Killed a Black tail Deer, the largest
Doe I ever Saw, (Black under her breast) this Island is
nearly 1 1/4 mls. Squar no timber high and Covered with grass
wild rye and contains Great Numbers of Grouse, we proceeded
on a Short distance above the Island and Camped on
the S.S. a fine evening.

 
[22]

Now Owl, or Moreau, River.—Ed.

[23]

Corrupt form of blaireau (the badger).—Ed.

8th.. of October Monday 1804.—

a cool morning Set out early the wind from the N.W.
proceeded on, passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L.S.
about 2 1/2 miles above Grouse Island, (3) passed a Willow
Island which divides the Current equilly. (2) passed the
mouth of a River called by the Ricares We tar hoo[24] on the
L.S. this river is 120 yards wide, the water of which at this
time is Confined within 20 yards, dischargeing but a Small
quantity, throwing out mud with Small propotion of Sand,
great quantities of the red Berries, ressembling Currents, are
on the river in every bend. 77° 33′. 00″ Lattitude from the
obsevation of to day at the mouth of this river (heads in the
Black mount'n
) is 45° 39′.5″North. proceeded on passed a
(3) Small river of 25 yards wide Called (4) Rear par or Beaver
Dam R: this river [Ma ro pa][25] is entirely chocked up with
mud, with a Streem of 1 Inch Diamiter passing through, descharging
no Sand, at 1 (5) mile passed the lower pint of
an Island close on the L.S. 2 of our men discovered the
ricckerree village, about the Center of the Island on the L
Side on the main Shore. this Island is about 3 miles long,
Seperated from the L.S. by a Channel of about 60 yards wide
verry Deep, The Isld. is covered with fields, where those
People raise their Corn Tobacco Beens &c. &c. Great numbers


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of those people came on the Island to See us pass, we
passed above the head of the Island & Capt. Lewis with 2
interpeters & 2 men went to the Village I formed a Camp of
the french & the guard on Shore, with one Sentinal on board
of the boat at anchor, a pleasent evening all things arranged
both for Peace or War, This Village (6) is Situated about
the center of a large Island near the L. Side & near the foot
of Some high bald uneaven hills, Several french men Came
up with Capt. Lewis in a Perogue, one of which is a Mr. Gravellin[26]
a man well versed in the language of this nation and gave
us some information relitive to the Countrey nat[i]on &c.

Courses Distance and reffurences.—8th.. Octr

               
N. 70°. W  Miles to a tree in the bend to the L. Side, passed a
small Creek L. S. (I) 
N. 10°. W.  miles to the pt. on the S. S. 
N. 15°. E.  2 1/2  to the mo: of a River [We ter hoo 120 yds wide] in
the bend to the L. S. (2) passing over a willow
Island (3) 
N. 40°. E.  mile on the L. Side 
N. 30° E  mile on the L. S. to the Mouth of a Small river [Ma-ro-pa]
(4) 
N. 15°. E  mile to the lower pt. of an Isd. (5) 
North  3 1/2  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. passd. the head of the Isd. and
the 1st. rickorries Village (6) oppsd a Creek we
Call after the 1st. Chief Ka kaw iss assa Creek. L. S. 
12 
 
[24]

Now Grand River; an Indian agency of the same name at its mouth.—Ed.

[25]

Known as Rampart Creek, and Oak Creek.—Ed.

[26]

Joseph Gravelines, a trader residing among the Anrikara tribe, in company with
Antoine Tabeau (Tabo), who is mentioned below.—Ed.

[Orderly Book; Clark:]

Orders October the 8th.. 1804.

Robert Frazer being regularly inlisted and haveing become
one of the Corps of Vollenteers for North-Western Discovery, he is therefore to be viewed & respected accordingly; and will be
anexed to Sergeant Gass's mess.

Wm. Clark Cpt. &c.
Meriwether Lewis
Capt. 1st
U.S. Regt. Infty

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Page 185

[Clark:]

River Maropa 9th.. of October 1804. Tuesday

a windey rainey night, and cold, So much So we Could not
speek with the Indians to day the three great Chiefs and
many others Came to see us to day, we gave them some
tobacco and informed them we would Speek on tomorrow,
the day continued Cold & windey some rain Sorry Canoos
of Skins passed down from the 2 Villages a Short distance
above, and many Came to view us all day, much astonished
at my black Servent, who did not lose the opportunity of
[displaying—Ed.] his powers Strength &c. &c. this nation
never Saw a black man before[27] .

Several hunters Came in with loades of meat, I observed
Several Canoos made of a Single Buffalow Skin with 3 thre
squars Cross the river to day in waves as high as I ever Saw
them on this river, quite uncomposed I have a Slite Plursie
this evening verry cold &c. &c.[28]

  • 1st. Chiefs name Ka kawissassa (lighting Crow)

  • 2d do do Pocasse (or Hay)

  • 3rd. do do piaheto (or Eagles feather)

 
[27]

By way of amusement he told them that he had once been a wild animal, and
caught and tamed by his master; and to convince them showed them feats of strength
which added to his looks made him more terrible than we wished him to be.—
Biddle (i, p. 101).

In a rare pamphlet entitled Adventures of Zenas Leonard (Clearfield, Pa., 1839)
—for information regarding which see Chittenden's Amer. Fur Trade, i, p. 397—
is an account of a negro residing (1832–34) in the Crow village at the junction of
Bighorn and Stinking rivers, who apparently was Clark's servant York. He told
Leonard that he first went to that country with Lewis and Clark, with whom he
returned to Missouri; that he afterward accompanied a trader up the Missouri, and
had remained with the Indians ever since (about ten or twelve years). He had,
when Leonard saw him, four Indian wives, and possessed much reputation and influence
among the Crows, from whom he secured the return of some horses which they
had stolen from Leonard's party.—Walter B. Douglas (St. Louis).

[28]

Wind blew hard this morning drove the boat from her anker, to shore.—
CLark (memorandum on p. 224 of Codex C).

10th.. of October Wednesday 1804.

a fine morning wind from the S.E. at about 11 oClock the
wind Shifted, to the N. W. we prepare all things ready to
Speak to the Indians, Mr. Tabo & Mr. Gravolin came to brackfast


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with us the Cheefs &c. came from the lower Town, but
none from the 2 upper Towns, which is the largest, we Continue
to delay & waite for them at 12 oClock Despatchd
Gravelin to envite them to come down, we have every reason
to believe that a gellousy exists between the Villages for fear
of our makeing the 1st. Cheif from the lower Village, at one
oClock the Cheifs all assembled & after Some little Cerremony
the council Commenced, we informd them what we had told
the others before i. e. Ottoes & Seaux. made 3 Cheif 1 for
each Village; gave them presents. after the Council was
over we Shot the air guns which astonished them much, the[y]
then Departed and we rested Secure all night, Those Indians
wer much astonished at my Servent, they never Saw a black
man before, all flocked around him & examind. him from top
to toe, he Carried on the joke and made himself more turribal
than we wished him to doe. Those Indians are not fond of
Spirts. Licquer. of any kind[29]

 
[29]

Much pleased, the french Chief lost his presents by his Skin Canoe oversetting,
shot the air gun, the men traded some fiew articles for Robes had the Corn
mill set up & shewed the Inds. its opperation after Speaking to them &c.— Clark
(ut supra).

11th.. October Thursday 1804—

a fine morning the wind from the S.E. at 11 oClock we
met the Grand Cheif in Councel and he made a Short Speech
thanking us for what we had given him & his nation promisseing
to attend to the Council we had given him & informed
us the road was open & no one dare Shut it, & we might
Departe at pleasure, at 1 oClock we Set out for the upper
Villages 3 miles destant, the Grand Cheif & nephew on board,
proceeded on at 1 mile took in the 2d. Cheif & Came too off
the first [second] Village Seperated from the 3rd. by a Creek
after arrangeing all matters we walked up with the 2d. Cheif to
his Village, and Set talking on Various Subjects untill late we
also visited the upper or 3rd. Village each of which gave us
Something to eate in their way, and a fiew bushels of Corn
Beens &c. &c. after being treated by everry civility by those
people who are both pore & Durtey we returned to our boat


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at about 10 oClk. P M. informing them before we Departed
that we would Speek to them tomorrow at there Seperate
Villages, Those people gave us to eate bread made of Corn
& Beens, also Corn & Beans boild. a large Been (of) which they
rob the mice of the Prarie (who collect & discover it) which is
rich & verry nurrishing also [S]quashes &c. all Tranquillity.

Course Distance & Reffurence 12th.. [11t—?] Octr.

           
N. 45. E  Miles to the mouth of a Creek between the 2 upper
Villages of the Rickeres L. S. (1) 
S. 75°. E  1 1/2  Miles the point on the L. S. passed the Village (2) 
N. 45°. E.  Mls. to a point of wood on the L. S. 
N. 20°. W.  2 1/2  miles to a pt. on the S. S. 
N. 8 W.  1 1/2  Miles to a point on L. S. passed a Sand bar. 
1/2 

12th.. October Friday 1804—

I rose early after brackfast we joined the Indians who were
waiting on the bank for us to come out and go and councel,
we accordingly joined them and went to the house of the 2nd.
Cheif Lassel where there was many Cheif and Warriers & [they
made us a present of—Biddle] about 7 bushels of Corn, a
pr. of Leagins, a twist of their Tobacco, & Seeds of 2 Kind
of Tobacco[30] we Set Some time before the Councill Commenced
this man Spoke at Some length declareing his dispotion
to believe and prosue our Councils, his intention of
going to Visit his great father acknowledged the Satisfaction
in receiveing the presents &c. rais'g a Doubt as to the Safty
in passing the Nations below particularly the Souex. requested
us to take a Chief of their nation and make a good peace with
Mandins & nations above. after answering those parts of the
2d Cheifs Speech which required it, which appeared to give
general Satisfaction we went to the Village of the 3rd. Chief and as usial Some Serimony took place before he Could Speek to
us on the Great Subject. This Chief Spoke verry much in
the [same] Stile on nearly the Same Subjects of the other Chief


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who Set by his Side, more Sincear & pleasently, he presented
us with about 10 bushels of Corn[31] Some beens & [s]quashes
all of which we acksepted with much pleasure, after we had
ansd. his Speech & give them Some account of the Magnitude
& power of our Countrey which pleased and astonished them
verry much we returned to our boat, the Chiefs accompanied
us on board, we gave them Some Sugar a little Salt and a
Sun Glass, & Set 2 on Shore & the third proceeded on with
us to the Mandens by name [blank space in MS.] at 2
oClock we Set out the inhabitents of the two Villages Viewing
us from the banks, we proceeded on about 9 1/2 miles and
Camped on the S.S. at Some woods passed, the evening Clear
& pleasent Cool.

The Nation of the Rickerries (Rickaras) is about 600 men
(Mr. Taboe says, I think 500 men) (Mr. Tabat is right) able to
bear arms a Great perpotion of them have fusees they
appear to be peacefull, their men tall and perpotiend,[32] womin
Small and industerous, raise great quantities of Corn Beens
Simnins[33] &c. also Tobacco for the men to Smoke they collect
all the wood and do the drugery as Common amongst Savages.

This nation is (two villages are) made up of 10 (nine) Different
Tribes of the Pania (Panies), who had formerly been
Seperate, but by Commotion and war with their neighbours
have Come reduced and compelled to come together for protection,
The curruption of the language of those different
Tribes has So reduced the language that the Different Villages
do not understan all the words of the others. Those people
are Durtey, Kind, pore, & extravigent. pursessing national
pride, not beggarley recive what is given with great pleasure,
Live in warm houses, large and built in an oxigon [octagon]
form forming a cone at top which is left open for the smoke


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to pass, those houses are Generally 30 or 40 foot Diamiter,
Covd. with earth on poles willows & grass to prevent the earths
passing thro'[34] . Those people express an inclination to be at
peace with all nations. The Seaux who trade the goods which
they get of the Britush Traders for their Corn,[35] and [have]
great influence over the Rickeres, poison their minds and keep
them in perpetial dread.

I saw Some of the Chien (Chyenne) or Dog Indians, also a
man of a nation under the Court Nue, This nation is at war
with the Crow Indians & have 3 children prisoners.

a curious custom with the Souix as well as the rickeres is to
give handsom squars to those whome they wish to Show some
acknowledgements to. The Seauex we got clare of without
taking their squars, they followed us with Squars two days.
The Rickores we put off dureing the time we were at the
Towns but 2 [handsom young] Squars were Sent by a man to
follow us, they came up this evening, and pursisted in their
civilities.[36]

Dress of the men of this nation is Simply a pr. mockerson,
Leagin, flap in front & a Buffalow roabe, with ther hair arms
& ears Deckorated.

The womin, wore Mockersons leagins fringed and a Shirt
of Goat Skins, Some with Sleaves this garment is longe &
Genly. white & fringed, tied at the waste[,] with a roabe, in
Summer without hair.


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[Memorandum made by Clark on the inside front cover of Codex C: ]

Names of the nations who come to the Ricares to trafick and
bring Horses & robes

                   
○1  Kun.na-nar-Wesb  —  (Gens des vach)[37]   Blue beeds. 
○2  Noo-tar- wau  —  Hill Climbers 
*3  Au-ner-hoo  —  the people who pen  Buffaloes to cetch them 
*4  To-che- wah-coo  —   Fox Indians 
*5  To-pah-cass  —  white hair's 
○6  Cat-tar-kah  —   Paducar. 
*7  Ki-e-wah  —  Tideing Indians 
+8  Too-war-sar  —  Skin pricks 
Shār ha (chien)  —  The village on the other side 
10  We hee skeu (chien)  —  The villagers on this side 

Those nations all live on the praries from S W by S to West of the
Ricarees all speek different languages and are numerous, all follow the
Buffalow and winter near the mountains.

 
[30]

Their tobacco is different from any I had before seen; it answers for smoking,
but not for chewing.—Gass (p. 73).

[31]

Recive Some Corn from the 2d. & 3rd Chf. about 20 bushels. —CLark (memorandum
on p. 224 of Codex C).

[32]

Gass says of the Arikara (pp. 73, 74) that "they are the best-looking, most
cleanly, most friendly and industrious Indians I have ever seen on the voyage."—Ed.

[33]

A form of "Simlin" or "simnel," a name used in the Southern States for
summer squashes.—Ed.

[34]

Cf. the more detailed descriptions of these huts given by Biddle (i, p. I06)
Gass (p. 72), and Brackenridge (Louisiana, p. 248).—Ed.

[35]

The English traders not only traffic with the Indians about the shining [Rocky]
mountains, but they have extended it to the Mandans on the Missouri, and to several
other tribes both above and below them. The Spaniards also from Santa Fé occassionally
traffic with the Indians about the waters of the Kansas, as likewise with those on
the river Platte.—Stoddard(Louisiana, pp. 453, 454).

[36]

Brackenridge says (Louisiana, p. 247) : "It is part of their hospitality, to offer
the guest their wife, sister, or maid servant, according to the estimation in which the
guest is held, and to refuse, is considered as treating the host with contempt." This
was a custom widely prevalent among Indian tribes, especially those of the Far West.
Biddle says (i, p. 105) that Arikara regarded such intercourse with strangers as disgraceful,
when occurring without the husband's or brother's consent.—Ed.

[37]

A French nickname, meaning "cow-people"—that is, Buffalo tribe. The
Indian name here given—written by Biddle (i, p. 34) Kaninaviesch—is only an
Chippewa appellation of that tribe, now known as the Arapaho, one of the westernmost
Algonquian tribes (see Mooney's sketch of this people, in U. S. Bur. Ethnol. Rep.,
1892–93, pp. 953–957). Lewis, however, in his "Statistical View" (p. 18)
applies the name Ar-râh'-pâ-hoó to a branch of the Pawnec.—Ed.

13th.. of October Satturday 1804—

one man J. Newmon confined for mutinous expression Set
out early proceeded on, passd. a camp of Seauex on the S.S.
those people only viewed us & did not Speak one word. The
visiters of last evening all except one returned which is the
Brother of the Chief we have on board passed (1) a Creek
13 yds on the S.S. at 18 ml. above the Town heading in some
Ponds a Short Dists. to the N.E. we call Stone Idol C. (well
to observe here that the Yankton or R Jacque heads at about
2 Days March of this place Easterly, the R. de Seaux one
Day further, the Chien (Chayenne the Chayl formerly there) a
branch of R. Rouche (Rouge) Still beyend, and the River
St. Peters 4 Days march from this place on the Same Derection
(Informtn. of the Rickores). Passed a large willow (2) & Sand
Islands above the mouth of the last Creek. at 21 Miles


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above the Village passed a (3) Creek about 15 yards wide on
the L.S. we call after 2d. Chief Pocasse (or Hay). nearly
opposit this Creek a fiew miles from the river on the S.S. 2
Stones resembling humane persons & one resembling a Dog is
Situated in the open Prarie, to those Stones the Rickores
pay Great reverance make offerings (votive Dress &c.) whenever
they pass (Informtn. of the Chief & Intepeter) those
People have a curious Tredition of those Stones, one was a
man in Love, one a Girl whose parents would not let [them]
marry (The man as is customary went off to mourn, the female
followed
.), the Dog went to morn with them all turned to
Stone gradually, commenceing at the feet. Those people fed
on grapes untill they turned, & the woman has a bunch of
grapes yet in her hand, on the river near the place those are
Said to be Situated, we obsd. a greater quantity of fine grapes
than I ever Saw at one place.

The river above the Island on which the Lower Reckores
Village is Situated is narrow and conts. a great[er] propotion of
Timber than below, the bottoms on both Sides is covered
with timber the up lands naked the current jentle and Sand
bars confined to the points Generally.

We proceeded on under a fine Breeze from the S.E. and
camped late at the upper part of Some wood on the Starboard
Side. Cold & Some rain this evening. we Sent out hunters
killed one Deer.

we Tried the Prisoner Newmon last night by 9 of his Peers
they did "Centence him 75 Lashes & Disbanded [from] the
party."

Course distance & reffurence—13th. Octr.

               
N. 60°. W.  Miles to a pt. on the S.S. 
N. 40°. W.  Miles to a pt. of timber on L. S. 
N. 10°. W.  Miles to the pt. on the L. S. 
N. 53 W.  1 1/2  Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. 
North  Mls. to a pt. on the L. S. opsit the mouth of a Creek
on the S. S. (1) 
N. 70°. W.  4 1/2  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. passing a Island (2) and
opsd. a Creek L. S. (3) 
N. 18°. E  3  Mls. to the upper point of Some wood on the S. S. and
camped. 
18 

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[Orderly Book; Clark:]

Orders 13th. of October 1804

A Court Martial to Consist of nine members will set to day
at 12 oClock for the trial of John Newmon now under Confinement.
Capt. Clark will attend to the forms & rules of a
president without giveing his opinion.

Detail for the Court Martial

         
Sergt. John Ordaway  Wm Werner 
Sergeant Pat: Gass  Wm Bratten 
Jo: Shields  Geo: Shannon 
H: Hall  Silas Goodrich 
Jo. Collins 
Meriwether Lewis Capt.
1st. U. S. Regt. Infty
WM.. Clark Capt
or E. N W D [Engineer North Western
Discovery.—Ed.]

[Lewis:]

In conformity to the above order the Court martial convened
this day for the trial of John Newman, charged with
"having uttered repeated expressions of a highly criminal and
"mutinous nature; the same having a tendency not only to
"distroy every principle of military discipline, but also to
"alienate the affections of the individuals composing this
"detatchment to their officers, and disaffect them to the ser"vice
for which they have been so sacredly and solemnly
"engaged." The Prisonar plead not guil[t]y to the charge
exhibited against him. The court after having duly considered
the evidence aduced, as well as the defence of the said
prisonor, are unanimously of opinion that the prisonor John
Newman is guilty of every part of the charge exhibited against
him, and do sentence him agreeably to the rules and articles
of war, to receive seventy five lashes on his bear back, and to
be henceforth discarded from the perminent party engaged for
North Western discovery; two thirds of the Court concurring


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in the sum and nature of the punishment awarded. the commanding
officers approve and confirm the sentence of the
court, and direct the punishment take place tomorrow between
the hours of one and two P.M. The commanding officers
further direct that John Newman in future be attatched to the
mess and crew of the red Perogue as a labouring hand on
board the same, and that he be deprived of his arms and
accoutrements, and not be permited the honor of mounting
guard untill further orders; the commanding officers further
direct that in lue of the guard duty from which Newman has
been exempted by virtue of this order, that he shall be
exposed to such drudgeries as they may think proper to direct
from time to time with a view to the general relief of the
detatchment.

[Clark:]

14th.. of October Sunday 1804.—

Some rain last night all wet & cold, we Set [out] early the
rain contind. all Day, at [blank in MS.] miles we passed a (1)
Creek on the L.S. 15 yards wide this Creek we call after
the 3rd. Chief Piaheto (or Eagles feather) at 1 oClock we
halted on a Sand bar & after Dinner executed the Sentence of
the Court Martial so far a[s] giveing the Corporal punishment,
& proceeded on a fiew Miles, the wind a head from
N.E. Camped in a Cove of the bank on the S.S.[38] imediately
opposit our Camp on the L.S. I observe an antient
fortification the Walls of which appear to be 8 or 10 feet high,
(most of it washed in) the evening wet and disagreeable, the
river Something wider more timber on the banks.

The punishment of this day allarmd. the Indian Chief verry
much, he cried aloud (or effected to cry) I explained the
Cause of the punishment and the necessity (of it) which he
(also) thought examples were also necessary, & he himself had
made them by Death, his nation never whiped even their
Children, from their burth.


194

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Courses & Distance & reffurences.—14th.

             
S. 70 W.  Mls. to a pt. on the L.S. the Same course continud 2 Ml. to a bend
L.S.
 
N. 63°. E.  Mls. to the pt. on the S.S. passd a Creek on the
L.S. (1)
 
N. 30°. W.  1 1/2  Ml. to a large Tree on the L.S. 
N. 40°. E.  1 1/2  Mls. some trees on the S.S. 
N 60°. W.  Mls. to a pt. on the L.S. Passing 
N. 70°. W.  3  Miles to a point on the S.S. passed an antient fortification
on the L.S.
 
12 
 
[38]

In North Dakota, close to 46°, at a creek now called Thunder-hawk. Piaheto
is now Blackfoot Creek.—Coues (L. and C., i, p. 168).

15th.. of October Monday 1804—

rained all last night, we Set out early and proceeded on at
3 miles passed an Indn. Camp (of hunters Ricaras) on the S.S.
we halted above and about 30 of the Indians came over in
their canoos of Skins, we eate with them, they give us meat,
in return we gave fish hooks & some beeds, about a mile
higher we came too on the L.S. at the camp of the Recores
(ricaras) of about 8 Lodges, we also eate and they gave
Some meat, we proceeded on Saw numbers of Indians on
both Sides passing a Creek, Saw many curious hills, high and
much the resemblance of a house with a hiped (like ours) roof,
at 12 oClock it cleared away and the evening was pleasent,
wind from the N.E. at Sunset we arrived at a Camp of
Recares of 10 Lodges on the S.S. we came too and camped
near them Capt. Lewis and my self went with the Chief who
accompanis us, to the Huts of Several of the men all of
whome Smoked & gave us something to eate also Some meat
to take away, those people were kind and appeared to be
much plsd. at the attentioned paid them.

Those people are much pleased with my black Servent.
Their womin verry fond of carressing our men &c.


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Course Distance & Reffurences—15th Oct

       
West  2 1/2  Miles to a Creek on the L.S. passing over a Sand bar
makeing from the S. pt.
 
North  Miles to a point of wood on the L.S. passing over a
sand point on the S.S.
 
N. 34° W.  31/2  Miles to a point of wood on the S.S. passing old Village
of the Shăr há or Chien Indians on the L.S.
below a Creek on the same Side. passed a Camp
10 of Ricares on S.S. 
10 

16th.. of October Tuesday 1804—

Some rain this morning, 2 young squars verry anxious to
accompany us, we Set out with out Chief on board by name
Ar ke tar na shar or Chief of the Town, a little above our
camp on the L.S. passed a circular work, where the, Shăr há
or Chien, or Dog Indians formerly lived a short distance
above passed a Creek which we call Chien Creek (Chayenne or
Shar ha (Mr Hayley says Not Chien
), above is a willow Island
Situated near (1) the L. Side a large Sand bar above & on
both Sides (2) passed a Creek above the Island on the L.S.
call So-harch (or Girls) Creek, at 2 miles higher up (3) passed
a Creek on L.S. call Charpart[39] (or womins) Creek, passed
(5) an Island Situated in a bend to the S.S. this Isd. is about
1 1/2 Miles long, covered with timber Such as Cotton wood,
opsd. the lower point a creek coms in on [sentence incomplete
Ed.] the S.S. called by the Indians Kee tooch Sar
kar nar
[Keetooshsahawna—Biddle] (or place of Beaver)
above the Island a small river coms in about 35 yards wide
called War ra con ne[40] or (Elk Shed their horns). The Island
is called Carp Island by Ivens [Evans] Wind hard from the
N.W. Saw great numbers of Goats on the Shore S.S. proceeded
on Capt. Lewis & the Indian Chief walked on Shore,
soon after I discovered great numbers of Goats in the river,
and Indians on the Shore on each Side, as I approached or


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got nearer I discovered boys in the water Killing the goats
with Sticks and halling them to Shore, Those on the banks
Shot them with arrows and as they approachd. the Shore would
turn them back of this Gangue of Goats I counted 58 of
which they had killed on the Shore, one of our hunters out
with Cap Lewis killed three Goats, we passed the Camp on
the S.S. and proceeded 1/2 mile and camped on the L.S.
many Indians came to the boat to See, Some came across
late at night, as they approach they hollowed and Sung,
after Staying a short time 2 went for Some meat, and returned
in a Short time with fresh & Dried Buffalow, also goat, those
Indians Stayed all night, they Sung and was verry merry the
greater part of the night.

Course Distance & reffurences —16th Oct

           
North  Miles to a pt. on the S.S. Passed a Willow Island
L. S. (1) a Creek (2) above the Isd. & one at 2
miles further (3)
 
N. 10°. E.  6.  Miles to the upper point of Some Timber on the L.S.
opsd. the mouth of a Creek on the S.S. (4) passed
a Isld. on the S.S. (5) opsd. the Lower pt. of which
comes in a Creek (5)
 
North  1/2  Mile on the L. Side 
N. 30°. W.  Ml. on the L. point High Ld
N. 38°. W.  Miles to a point on the S.S. 
14 1/2 

Course Distance & reffurence.—17th. Oct.

         
N. 10°. E.  1 1/2  Miles to a pt. on the L.S. 
North  1/2  ml. on the L.S. 
N. 10°. W.  1/2  Ml. on the L.S. 
N. 33°. W.  3 1/2  Mls. to the Commencement of Some woods on the S.S. 

☞ note from the Ricares to the River Jacque near N.E.
is about 40 mls. to the Chien a fork of R Rogue[41] . 20 (further)
passing the Souix River near the Chien this from information
of Mr. Graveline who passed through this Countrey.

 
[39]

These names are spelled by Biddle, Sohawch and Chapawt; he says that they
are Arikara words.—Ed.

[40]

The present name is Big Beaver Creek; at its mouth is the town of Emmons-burg,
N. D.—Ed.

[41]

Meaning Rouge—that is, Red River (of the North). —Ed.


197

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17th.. of October Wednesday 1804.—

Set out early a fine morning the wind from the N.W.
after brackfast I walked on Shore with the Indian Chief &
Interpeters, Saw Buffalow, Elk and Great numbers of Goats
in large gangues (I am told by Mr. G. that those animals
winter in the Black Mountains to feed on timber &c.) and this
is about the Season they cross from the East of the Missouries
to go to that Mountain, they return in the Spring and pass
the Missouries in great numbers (to the plains). This Chief
tells me of a number of their Treditions about Turtles, Snakes,
&c. and the power of a perticeler rock or Cove on the next
river which informs of every thing none of those I think
worth while mentioning. The wind So hard a head the [boat]
could could not move after 10 oClock. Capt. Louis took the
altitude of the Sun Latd. 46° 23′. 57″ I killed 3 Deer, and
the hunters with me killed 3 also, the Indian Shot one but
could not get it, I scaffeled[42] up the Deer & returned & met
the boat after night on the L.S. about 6 miles above the place
we camped last night. one of the men saw a number of
Snakes, Capt. Lewis Saw a large Beaver house S.S. I cought
a whipprwill Small & not common.[43] the leaves are falling
fast. the river wide and full of Sand bars. Great numbers of
verry large Stone on the Sides of the hills & some rock of a
brownish Colour in the Ld. Bend below this.

Great numbers of Goats are flocking down to the S. Side of
the river, on their way to the Black mountains where they
winter Those animals return in the Spring in the Same way
& scatter in different directions.

 
[42]

That is, Scaffolded, to be above the reach of wolves.—Ed.

[43]

Nuttall's whippoorwill (Phalænoptilus Nuttalli).—Ed.

18th.. of October Thursday 1804—

Set out early proceeded on at 6 mls. passed the mouth of
(1) la [Le] Boulet (or Cannon Ball River) about 140 yards
wide on the L.S. this river heads in the Court Noi or Black


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Mountains (a fine Day) above the mouth of the river Great
numbers of Stone perfectly round with fine Grit are in the
Bluff and on the Shore, the river takes its name from those
Stones which resemble Cannon Balls. The water of this
river is confined within 40 yards. We met 2 frenchmen in
a perogue Decending from hunting, & complained of the
Mandans robing them of 4 Traps their furs & Several other
articles. Those men were in the imploy of our Ricaree interpeter
Mr. Gravelin the[y] turned & followered us.

Saw Great numbers of Goats on the S.S. comeing to the
river our hunters Killed 4 of them Some run back and
others crossed & proceded on their journey to the Court Nou
at (3) passed a Small River called Che Wah or fish river[44] on
the S.S. this river is about 28 yards wide and heads to the
N.E. passed a small creek on the L.S. 1 mile above the last,
and camped on a sand bar on the L.S. opposit to us we Saw
a Gangue of Buffalow bulls which we did not think worth
while to kill. our hunters killed 4 Coats [Goats] 6 Deer
4 Elk & a pelican & informs that they Saw in one gang: 248
Elk, (I walked on Shore in the evening with a view to see
Some of those remarkable places mentioned by evins [Evans
Ed.], none of which I could find). The Countrey in this
Quarter is Generally leavel & fine Some high Short hills, and
some ragid ranges of Hills at a Distance

Course Distance & Refferences—18th Oct

             
N. 50°. W.  Miles to the mouth of a River (1) cannon ball L.S. 
N. 20°. W.  Miles to a point of wood land on the S.S. passing a
Bluff in which theres round stone (2)
 
North  2 1/2  miles to a point of wood land on the L.S. 
N. 15°. W.  1/2  Mile on the L.S. opsd. a Creek on the S.S. (3) 
N. 10°. E.  2 1/2  miles to a point on the S.S. passing a small Creek
on L.S.
 
N. 20°. E.  miles to a point of woods on the L.S. passing over a
Sand bar
 
13 

199

Page 199

☞ The recaree Indians inform us that they find no black
tail Deer as high up as this place, those we find are of the fallow
Deer kind

☞ The recarees are not fond of Spiritous liquers, nor do
they apper to be fond of Receiveing any or thankfull for it.
[they say we are no friends or we would not give them what makes
them fools
].

 
[44]

Now Long Lake Creek : this day's encampment was near Fort Rice.—Ed.

19th.. October Friday 1804.—

a fine morning wind from the S.E. we Set out early under
a gentle Breeze and proceeded on verry well, more timber
than common on the banks on this part of the river. passed
a large Pond on the S.S. I walked out on the Hills & observed
Great numbers of Buffalow feeding on both Sides of the river
I counted 52 Gangues of Buffalow & 3 of Elk at one View,
all the runs which come from the high hills which is Generally
about one or 2 miles from the water is brackish and near the
Hills (the Salts are) and the Sides of the Hills & edges of the
Streems, [the mineral salts appear] I saw Some remarkable
round hills forming a cone at top one about 90 foot one 60 &
several others Smaller, the Indian Chief say that the Callemet
bird[45] live in the holes of those hills, the holes form by the
water washing [away] this Some parts in its passage Down
from the top—near one of those noles [Knolls], on a point
of a hill 90 feet above the lower plane I observed the remains
of an old village, (high, strong, watchtower &c.) which had been
fortified, the Indian Chief with us tels me, a party of Mandins
lived there, [Here first saw ruins of Mandan nation] we
proceeded on & camped on the S.S. opposit the upper of
those conocal hills. our hunters killed 4 Elk 6 Deer & a
pelican, I saw Swans in a Pond & killed a fat Deer in my
walk, Saw about 10 wolves. This day is pleasent


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Course Distance & reffurence—19th. Octr.

                 
N. 60°. W.  2 1/2  Mls. to a pt. on the S.S. Passed a Creek on the S.S. 
N. 40°. W.  Mls. to Some wood in a bend on the L.S. 
N. 10°. E.  1 1/2  mile to the point on the L.S. 
N. 20°. W.  miles to a tree in the bend S.S. 
N. 83°. W.  miles to the point on the S.S. 
N. 44°. W.  mile to a Willow point on the L.S. pd. a Lake S.S. 
N. 30°. W.  miles to a tree in the bend to the S.S. 
N. 80°. W.  3 1/2  miles to a point on the S.S. (2) opposit a round nole
on the L.S. a Deep bend to the L.S. & pond. 
17 1/2 

Courses Distance & Reffers.—20th October

             
N. 30°. W  Miles to Some timber in a bend to the S.S. at a Creek (1) 
N. 10°. W.  mile on the S.S. 
N. 54°. W.  miles to a pt. on the L.S. Isd). passing over a Sand bar
S. S. 
N.  miles to some high trees in a bend on the S.S. passing
the lowrp.t Is.d. (2) 
N. 70° W.  Miles to a pt. on the S.S. passing the upper pt. of the
Island on the L.S. 
N. 50°. W  Mls. to the upper part of Bluff in which there (3) is
Stone Cole on the L.S. passing the Ist old Mandin
Village on the L.S. (4) 
12 
 
[45]

The golden eagle (Aquila chrysaëtos)—thus named because its tail-feathers are
used to decorate the calumet-pipes of the Indians, who attach great value to these
ornaments.—Ed.

20th.. of October Satturday 1804—

Set out early this morning and proceeded on the wind from
the S.E. after brackfast I walked out on the L. Side to See
those remarkable places pointed out by Evins, I. saw an old
remains of a village (covering 6 or 8 acres) on the Side of a hill
which the Chief with Too né tels me that nation lived in 2 [a
number
] villages 1 on each Side of the river and the Troublesom
Seaux caused them to move about 40 miles higher up
where they remained a fiew years & moved to the place they
now live, (2) passed a small Creek on the S.S. (3) and one on
the L. S. passed (4) a Island covered with willows laying
in the middle of the river no current on the L.S. Camped on
the L.S. above a Bluff containing coal (5) of an inferior quallity,
this bank is imediately above the old Village of the Mandans.
The Countrey is fine, the high hills at a Distance with gradual


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assents, I Kild. 3 Deer The Timber confined to the bottoms
as useal which is much larger than below. Great numbers of
Buffalow Elk & Deer, Goats. our hunters killed 10 Deer &
a Goat to day and wounded a white Bear,[46] I saw several fresh
tracks of those animals which is 3 times as large as a mans
track. The wind hard all Day from the N.E. & East, great
numbers of buffalow Swimming the river I observe near all
large gangues of Buffalow wolves and when the buffalow move
those animals follow, and feed on those that are killed by
accident or those that are too pore or fat to keep up with the
gangue.

 
[46]

Pierre Cruzat shot a white bear left his gun, &c.—Clark (memorandum on
p. 223. of Codex C).

21st.. October Sunday 1804—

a verry Cold night wind hard from the N.E. Some rain
in the night which frosed as it fell at Day light it began to
Snow and continued all the fore part of the Day passed just
above our camp (1) a Small river on the L. S. called by
the Indians Chiss-che-tar [Chisshetaw— BIDDLE] this river is
about 38 yards wide containing a good Deel of water[47] Some
distance up this River is Situated a Stone which the Indians
have great faith in & say they See painted on the Stone, all
the Calemetes & good fortune to hapin the nation & parties
who visit it. a tree [an oak] which Stands [alone] near this
place [about 2 miles off] in the open prarie which has withstood
the fire they pay Great respect to make Holes and tie Strings
thro [the skins of their] their necks and around this tree to
make them brave [Capt. Clarke saw this tree] (all this is the
information of Too ne [is a whipperwill] the Cheif of the Ricares
who accompanied us to the Mandins, at 2 Miles (2) passed
the 2nd. Village of the Mandins which was in existance at the
same time with the 1st. this Village is at the foot of a hill on
the S.S. in a butifull & extensive plain, (nearly opposite is another


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village in a bottom the other side of Missouri) at this time covered
with Buffalow. a cloudy afternoon, I killed a fine Buffalow,
we camped on the L. S. (below an old Mandan village having
passed another up a Creek 3 miles below on Sd. S
. verry cold
Ground covered with Snow. one orter [otter] killd.

Course Distance & reffers.—21st. Oct.

       
S.80°. E.  miles to the place the Mandans had a village formerly
at the foot of a riseing part of the plain. (1) on
the S. S. passed a river 
N. 16°. W.  1 1/2  miles to a grove on the S. S. 
N. 40°. W.  3 1/2  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. river wide and sand bars a
large willow Island. 
 
[47]

Now known as Heart River; just above are the towns of Bismarck and Mandan,
N. D., joined by the N. P. Railway bridge. Just below the river are the ruins
of Fort Abraham Lincoln, Custer's post in 1876. The encampment of Lewis and
Clark on October 20, 1804, was a little above the site of the fort.—O.D. Wheeler.

22nd. October Monday 1804—

last night at 1 oClock I was violently and Suddenly attacked
with the Rhumetism in the neck which was So violent I could
not move Capt. [Lewis] applied a hot Stone raped in flannel,
which gave me some temporey ease. We Set out early, the
morning Cold at 7 oClock we came too at a camp of Teton
Seaux on the L. S. those people 12 in number were nackd.[48]
and had the appearance of war, we have every reason to
believe that they are going or have been to Steel Horses from
the Mandins, they tell two Stories, we gave them nothing
after takeing brackfast proceeded on. my Neck is yet verry
painfull at times Spasms. (Passed old Ma[n]dan village near
which we lay, another at 4 miles, one at 8 miles at mouth of large
creek 4 miles further all on Larboard side.) (The mounds, 9 in
number along river within 20 miles the fallen down earth of the
houses, some teeth and bones of men & animals mixed in these villages,
human skulls are scattered in these villages
)

Camped on the L. Side, passed an Island Situated on the
L. Side at the head of which we pass a bad place & Mandans
village S.S. (2 miles above). The hunters killed a buffalow


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bull, they Say out of about 300 buffalow which they Saw,
they did not, see one Cow. Great Deel of Beaver Sign.
Several Cought every night.

Course Distance & Reffurence—22d Oct

           
N. 50°. W  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. 
N. 34° W.  Miles to the lower point on an Island on the L. S. 
N. 34°. W.  Miles to a pt. on the S. S. passed a bad riffle or bar 
North  Mile to a point on the L. S. a Deep bend to the S. S. 
N. 24°. W  miles to a point on the S. Side. 
12 
 
[48]

14 Sioux came to us on the L. S. with their guns cocked, believe them to be
a war party they were naked except their Leagins.—Clark (memorandum on
p. 223 of Codex C).

Of these savages: "Notwithstanding the coldness of the weather, they had not an
article of clothing except their breech-clouts."—Gass (p. 79).

23rd.. of October Tuesday 1804—

a cloudy morning Some Snow Set out early, pass five
Lodges which was Diserted, the fires yet burning we Suppose
those were the Indians who robed the 2 french Trappers a fiew
days ago those 2 men are now with us going up with a view
to get their property from the Indians thro. us. Cold & cloudy
camped on the L. S. of the river[49]

(Saw at 12 miles passed old village on S. S. of Maharha * Indns., a
band of Minnetarréas who now live between Mands & Minnetarres
)
(* Ah na ha wa's [Ahwahaways—Biddle] see note 10
May 1805
)

Course Distance & reffurences

             
N. 45°. E  Miles to a Tree in the bend S. S. 
N. 18°. W.  1 1/2  Mls. to High land on S. S. 
N. 65°. W.  Mls to a tree in the bend L. S. 
N. 33°. W.  2 1/2  Mls. to a pt. on the L. S. 
N. 18°. W.  mile on the L. S. 
N. 45°. W.  Miles to a point on the S. S. passing as common many Sand bars 
13 

Course Distance & reffurences—24th Oct.

         
N. 20°. W.  Mile to a pt. on the S. S. 
N. 10°. W.  Miles to a pt. on the L. S. at this place the river has laterly
Cut thro forming a large Island to the S. S. (1) 
N. 35°. W.  Miles to an object on the S. S. 
N. 64°. W.  Miles to a point of high land on which the Mandins
formerly lived (2) 
 
[49]

Near Sanger, N. D., a short distance south of Deer Creek.—Ed.


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24th. October Wednesday 1804—

Set out early a cloudy day Some little Snow in the morning
I am Something better of the Rhumitism in my neck. a butifull
Countrey on both Sides of the river. the bottoms covd.
with wood, we have Seen no game on the river to day—a
prof of the Indians hunting in the neighbourhood (1) passed
a Island on the S. S. made by the river Cutting through a
point, by which the river is Shortened Several miles. on this
Isld. we Saw one of the Grand Chiefs of the Mandins, with five
Lodges hunting, this Chief met the Chief of the Ricares who
accompanied us with great Cordiallity & serimony Smoked the
pipe & Capt. Lewis with the Interpeter went with the Chiefs to
his Lodges at 1 mile distant, after his return we admited the
Grand Chief & his brother for a few minits on our boat. proceeded
on a Short distance and camped on the S. S. below the
old village of the Mandins & ricares.[50] Soon after our land'g
4 mandins came from a camp above, the Ricares Chief went
with them to their Camp,

Course Distance & Reffurences—25th.. of October.

             
N. 80°. W.  Miles to a pt. on the L. Side passed an old Village (1) 
West  Mile on the L. Side 
S. 80°. W.  Mile on the L. Side 
S. 60. W.  Miles to a pt. on the L. Side 
S. 30°. W.  Miles to a Tree on the Larboard Side 
S. 33°. W.  Miles to a point on the Starboard Side opposit a high hill 
11 
 
[50]

Near Washburn, N. D.—Ed.

25th.. of October Thursday 1804.—

a cold morning. Set out early under a gentle Breeze from
the S. E. by E. proceeded on, passed (1) the 3rd. old Village
of the Mandans which has been Desd. for many years, This
village was situated on an eminance of about 40 foot above the
water on the L. S. back for Several miles is a butifull Plain
(2) at a Short distance above this old Village on a Continuation
of the same eminance was Situated the Ricares Village (two ola
villages of ricaras one on top of high hill the 2d below in the bottom
.)
which has been avacuated only Six (five) years, (about 3 or 4


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miles above Ricaras villages are 3 old villages of Mandanes near
together here they lived when the R's came for protection —afterwards
moved where they now live
.) above this Village a large and
extensive bottom for Several miles in which the Squars raised
ther Corn, but little timber near the Villages, on the S. S.
below is a point of excellent timber, and in the point Several
miles above is fine timber, Several parties of Mandins rode
to the river on the S. S. to view us indeed they are continuelly
in Sight Satisfying their Curiossities as to our apperance
&c. We are told that the Seaux has latterly fallen in with &
Stole the horses of the Big bellies,[51] on their way home they
fell in with the Ossiniboin who killed them and took the
horses. a frenchman has latterly been killed by the Indians
on the Track to the tradeing establishment on the Ossinebine
R. in the North of this place (or British fort) This frenchman
has lived many years with the Mandins. we were frequently
called on to land & talk to parties of the Mandins on the
Shore; wind Sfifted to the S. W at about 11 oClock and
blew hard untill 3 oClk. clouded up river full of Sand bars
& we are at a great loss to find the channel of the river, frequently
run on the Sand bars which Delais us much passed
a verry bad riffle of rocks in the evening by takeing the L. S.
of a sand bar[52] and camped on a Sand point on the S. S.
opposit a high hill on the L. S. Several Indians came to see
us this evening, amongst others the Sun of the late Great Chief
of the Mandins (mourning for his father), this man has his two
little fingers off; on inquireing the cause, was told it was
customary for this nation to Show their greaf by some testimony
of pain, and that it was not uncommon for them to take
off 2 Smaller fingers of the hand (at the 2d joints) and some
times more with other marks of Savage effection


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The wind blew verry hard this evening from the S.W. verry
cold R. Fields with the Rhumitism in his neck, P. Crusat
with the Same complaint in his Legs —the party other wise
is well, as to my self I feel but slight Simptoms of that disorder
at this time,

 
[51]

A common but somewhat erroneous translation of Gros Ventres, the French
appellation of a tribe who form a division of the Arapaho people. The name
Gros Ventres is also applied, as here, to the Siouan Minitaree (more correctly
known as Hidatsa). See Mooney's Sketch of the Arapaho, U. S. Bur. Ethnol. Rep.,
1892–93, pp. 954, 955. The Assiniboin are a division of the Siouan family; most
of them dwell in British territory.—Ed.

[52]

All obliged to get out and haul the boat over.—Clark (memorandum on
p. 223 of Codex C).

26th. of October Friday 1804—

Set out early wind from the S. W. proceeded on saw
numbers of the Mandins on Shore, we set the Ricare Chief
on Shore, and we proceeded on to the Camp of two of their
Grand Chiefs where we delayed a fiew minits, with the Chiefs
and proceeded on takeing two of their Chiefs on board & Some
of the heavy articles of his house hold, Such as earthen pots &
Corn, proceeded on, at this Camp Saw a (Mr.) Mc Cracken
Englishmon from the N.W. (Hudson Bay) Company[53] this man
Came nine Days ago to trade for horses & Buffalow robes,—
one other man came with him. the Indians continued on the
banks all day. but little wood on this part of the river, many
Sand bars and bad places, water much devided between them

We came too and camped on the L. S. about 1/2 a mile
below the 1st. Mandin Town on the L. S.[54] soon after our
arrival many men womin & children flocked down to See us,
Capt. Lewis walked to the village with the principal Chiefs and
our interpters, my Rhumatic complaint increasing I could
not go. if I was well only one would have left the Boat &
party untill we niew the Disposition of the Inds. I Smoked
with the Chiefs who came after. Those people apd. much
pleased with the Corn Mill which we were obliged to use, &
was fixed in the boat.


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Course Distance & reffrs.—26th. Oct.

                 
N. 45°. W.  Ml. to a tree in the bend to the Larboard Side 
N. 70°. W.  Ml to a pt on the S.S. 
S. 26. W.  Mls. to a Camp of Mandans wood in the bend L.S. 
West.  Mls. to a tree in bend L.S. passed a Small Creek 
N. 27°. W.  Mls. to the pt. Fort Mandan stands on Passing a Bluff
of indft. Coal L.S. 
N. 55°. W.  Ml. to a pt. on the L. S. 
S. 60°. W.  2-  Mls. to the 1st Village of the Mandins Situated on the L.
side in an open Plain. 
11 
 
[53]

Early explorations by French and English navigators and traders led to the
establishment (May 2, 1670) of the Hudson's Bay Company, with headquarters in
London, who long held a monopoly of the fur trade in the great Northwest. In
1783–84 some of the leading Montreal merchants organized a rival association, known
as the North West Company; but after a long and fierce competition for supremacy
in the fur trade, the Hudson's Bay Company finally absorbed its rival (March 26,
1821). Hugh McCracken was an Irish "free trader," usually employed by the North
West Company, who had accompanied David Thompson and Alexander Henry in
their journeys through the Upper Missouri region.—Ed.

[54]

Not far from Stanton, N. D.—Ed.