University of Virginia Library

Chapter VIII
PART I

FROM THE YELLOWSTONE TO THE MUSSELSHELL

VIII. Lewis's Journal, April 28—May 5, 1805
Clark's Journal, April 28—May 5

[Lewis:]

Sunday April 28th. 1805.

SET out this morning at an early hour; the wind was
favourable and we employed our sails to advantage.
Capt Clark walked on shore this morning, and I proceeded
with the party. the country through which we passed
today is open as usual and very broken on both sides near the
river hills, the bottoms are level fertile and partially covered
with timber. the hills and bluffs exhibit their usual mineral
appearances, some birnt hills but no appearance of Pumicestone;
coal is in great abundance and the salts still increase
in quantity; the banks of the river and sandbars are incrusted
with it in many places and appear perfectly white as if covered
with snow or frost. the woods are now green, tho' the plains
and meadows appear to abate of the verdure those below
exhibited some days past. we past three small runs today,
two falling in on the Stard. and one on the Lard. side, they are
but small afford but little water and head a few miles back in
the hills. we saw great quantities of game today; consisting
of the common and mule deer, Elk, Buffaloe, and Antelopes;
also four brown bear, one of which was fired on and wounded
by one of the party but we did not get it; the beaver have
cut great quantities of timber; saw a tree nearly 3 feet in
diameter that had been felled by them. Capt. Clark in the
course of his walk killed a deer and a goose; & saw three
black bear; he thinks the bottoms are not so wide as they
have been for some days past.

Courses and distances 28th. of April.

                         

				Miles
North.			to a point of timber on Lard. side.	2 1/4.
N.	40°.	W.	to the upper part of the point on Lard. opposite to a high rugged bluf	1.
S.	56.	W.	to a high bluff on the Lard. side just above a timbered bottom, and opposite a point of woodland on Stard. side	2 3/4.
S.	85.	W.	to the center of a bend on Lard. side.	1.
N.	25.	W.	to a point of timbered land on Lard. passing a point on Stard. side at I 1/4 Mls.	3.
N.	18 .	W.	to the lower point of the timber in a bend on Stard. side	2.
S.	4.	W .	to a point of woodland on Stard. side.	4.
S.	10.	W.	to a high bluff point on Lard. side, the river making a considerable bend to S.E.	2.
N.	80.	W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side	2.
N.	45.	W.	to a high bluff point on the Stard. side.	1.
S.	80.	W.	to a point of woodland on Stard. side.	3.
				Miles—24.

[Clark:]

28th. of April Sunday 1805

a fine day river falling, wind favourable from the S.E. and
moderate, I walked on shore to view the countrey, from
the top of the high hills, I beheld a broken & open countrey
on both Sides, near the river some verry handsom low plains,
I killd a Deer & a goose, saw three black bear great numbers
of Elk antelopes & 2 Gangues of Buffalow. The hills &
Bluffs show the stratums of coal, and burnt appearances in
maney places, in and about them I could find no appearance
of Pumice Stone, the wood land have a green appearance,
the Plains do not look so green as below. The bottoms are
not so wide this afternoon as below. Saw four bear this evening,
one of the men Shot at one of them. The antilopes are
nearly red, on that part which is Subject to change i. e. the
sides & 2/3 of the back from the head, the other part as white
as Snow, 2 small runs fall in on the S. Side and one this
evening on the Lard Side those runs head at a fiew miles in
the hills and discharge but little water, the Bluffs in this part

as also below Shew different stratums of coal or carbonated
wood, and coloured earths, such as dark brown, yellow a
lightish brown, & a dark red &c.

Course & distance the 28th of April

                       

N.			2 1/4	miles to a point of timber on the Lad Side
N.	40°.	W.	1	to the upper part of the point on the L. Side opposit is a high rugid Bluff on the S.S.
S.	56°.	W.	2 3/4	To a high bluff on the Ld Side opposit to a point of woods & just above a wood
S.	85°.	W.	1.	To the center of a bend on the Lad Side
N.	25°.	W.	3.	To a point of timbered land on the Ld. Side passing a point on the St. Side at 1 1/4 miles
N.	18°.	W.	2.	To the lower point of a timber in a bend to the Starboard Side.
S.	4°.	W.	4.	To a point of wood Land on the Sd. Side
S.	10°.	W.	2.	To a high bluff point on the L. Side the river makeing a considerable bend S.E.
N.	80°.	W.	2.	to a point of wood land on the Lard. Side
N.	45°.	W.	1	to a high Bluff pt. on the Std Side
S.	80°.	W.	3	To a point of wood land on the Std Side
			24

[Lewis:]

Monday April 29th 1805.

Set out this morning at the usual hour; the wind was moderate;
I walked on shore with one man, about 8. A.M. we
fell in with two brown or yellow [white] bear; both of which
we wounded; one of them made his escape, the other after my
firing on him pursued me seventy or eighty yards, but fortunately
had been so badly wounded that he was unable to
pursue so closely as to prevent my charging my gun; we
again repeated our fir[e] and killed him. it was a male not
fully grown, we estimated his weight at 300 lbs. not having the
means of ascertaining it precisely. The legs of this bear are
somewhat longer than those of the black, as are it's tallons and
tusks incomparably larger and longer, the testicles, which in
the black bear are placed pretty well back between the thyes
and contained in one pouch like those of the dog and most
quadrupeds, are in the yellow or brown bear placed much

further forward, and are suspended in separate pouches from
two to four inches asunder; it's colour is yellowish brown,
the eyes small, black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs
near the feet is usually black; the fur is finer thicker and
deeper than that of the black bear, these are all the particulars
in which this anamal appeared to me to differ from the black
bear;[1] it is a much more furious and formidable anamal, and
will frequently pursue the hunter when wounded, it is asstonishing
to see the wounds they will bear before they can be put
to death. the Indians may well fear this anamal equiped as
they generally are with their bows and arrows or indifferent
fuzees, but in the hands of skillfull riflemen they are by no
means as formidable or dangerous as they have been represented.[2]
game is still very abundant we can scarcely cast our
eyes in any direction without percieving deer Elk Buffaloe or
Antelopes. The quantity of wolves appear to increase in the
same proportion; they generally hunt in parties of six eight or
ten; they kill a great number of the Antelopes at this season;
the Antelopes are yet meagre and the females are big with
young; the wolves take them most generally in attempting to
swim the river; in this manner my dog caught one drowned it
and brought it on shore; they are but clumsey swimers, tho'
on land when in good order, they are extreemly fleet and
dureable, we have frequently seen the wolves in pursuit of
the Antelope in the plains; they appear to decoy a single one
from a flock, and then pursue it, alturnately relieving each
other untill they take it, on joining Capt Clark he informed
me that he had seen a female and faun of the bighorned
anamal; that they ran for some distance with great aparent
ease along the side of the river bluff where it was almost perpendicular;
two of the party fired on them while in motion
without effect. we took the flesh of the bear on board and
proceeded. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening, killed. a
deer, and saw several of the bighorned anamals. there is more
appearance of coal today than we have yet seen, the stratas are
6 feet thick in some instances; the earth has been birnt in
many places, and always appears in stratas on the same level
with the stratas of coal. we came too this evening in the
mouth of a little river, which falls in on the Stard. side, this
stream is about 50 yards wide from bank to bank; the water
occupyes about 15 yards. the banks are of earth only, abrupt,
tho' not high—the bed, is of mud principally. Capt Clark,
who was up this streeam about three miles, informed me that
it continued about the same width, that it's current was gentle
and it appeared navigable for perogues it meanders through
an extensive, fertile, and beautifull vally as far as could bee
seen about N. 30° W. there was but one solitary tree to be
seen on the banks of this river after it left the bottom of the
Missouri. the water of this river is clear, with a brownish
yelow tint. here the highlands receede from the Missouri,
leaving the vally formed by the river from seven to eight
miles wide, and reather lower then usual. This stream my
friend Capt. C. named Marthas river.[3]

Courses and distances of the 29th of April.

                         

				Miles
N.	45°.	W.	to a point of woodland on Lard. side opposite to a high bluff on Stard.	3.
West.			to a point of woodland Stard. opposite to a bluff	2.
N.	80.	W.	along the Stard. point opposite a high sharp bluff	1. 1/2
N.	45.	W.	to a point of woodland Lard. opposite to a bluff	2.
N.	55.	W.	to a point of woodland Lard. opposite to a bluff	3.
N.	65.	W.	to a bluff point on Stard. side	1. 1/4
S.	30	W.	to the upper point of the high timber on the Lard side in a bend of the river	3
S.	85	W.	to a point of woodland on Stard. opposite a bluff	1 1/4
N.	55.	W.	to the commencement of a bluff on Stard. side, passing a sand point at 2 1/2 miles on Lard. side	3. 1/2
S.	75.	W.	to a point of woodland on Lard. passing the poit. of a sandbar on Stard., the river making a deep bend to the South	1. 1/2
S.	75.	W.	to the entrance of a (Marthys) river in a bend on Stard. where we encamped for the night. this stream we call [blank space in MS.]	3.
				25

[Clark:]

29th.. of April Monday 1805

Set out this morning at the usial hour. the wind is moderate
& from the N.E. had not proceeded far eer we Saw a female
& her faun of the Bighorn animal on the top of a Bluff lying,
the noise we made allarmed them and they came down on the
side of the bluff which had but little slope being nearly purpindicular,
I directed two men to kill those anamals, one
went on the top and the other man near the water they had
two shots at the doe while in motion without effect, Those
animals run & Skiped about with great ease on this declivity
& appeared to prefur it to the leavel bottom or plain. Capt.
Lewis & one man walkd on shore and he killed a yellow Bear
& the man with him wounded one other, after getting the
flesh of the bear on bord which was not far from the place we
brackfast, we proceeded on Saw 4 gangus of buffalow and great
numbers of antelopes in every direction also saw Elk and
several wolves, I walked on Shore in the evening & killed a
Deer which was so meager as to be unfit for use. The hills
contain more coal, and has a greater appearance of being burnt
that [than] below, the burnt parts appear on a parrilel with
the stratiums of coal, we came too in the mouth of a Little
river on the S.S. which is about 50 or 60 yards from banks to
bank, I was up this Stream 3 miles it continues its width and
glides with a gentle current, its water is about 15 yards wide
at this time, and appears to be navagable for canoes &c. it
meanders through a butifull & extencive vallie as far as can be
Seen about N 30° W. I saw only a single tree in this fertile

vallie The water of the River is clear of a yellowish colour,
we call this river Martheys river in honor to the Selebrated
M.F. Here the high land widen from five to Eight miles
and much lower than below. Saw several of the big horn
animals this evening. The Wolves distroy great numbers of
the antilopes by decoying those animals singularly out in the
plains and prosueing them alternetly, those antelopes are
curious and will approach any thing which appears in motion
near them &c.

Course & Distance the 29th.. of April

                         

			miles
N.	45°.	W	3	to a point of wood land on the Ld Side opsd. to a high Bluff on the Stard Side
West			2	to a wood land on the Std Side opsd. a Bluff
N	80°.	W.	1 1/2	on the Std point, a high Sharp bluff
N.	45°.	W.	2	to a point of wood land on the L. Side, a high bluff opposit on the S.S.
N.	55°.	W.	3	to a point of timbered land on the Lard Side a Bluff on the S. Side
N.	65°.	W	1 1/4	to a Bluff point on the Stard. Side.
S.	30°.	W.	3	to the upper point of a high timber on the L. Side in a lard bend of the river
S.	85°.	W.	1 1/4	to a pt. of timber on Stard. Sd. opsd. a bluff
N	55°.	W.	3 1/2	to the commencement of a bluff on S.S. passd a sand pt. at 2 1/2 miles on the Lard. Sd.
S	75°.	W.	1 1/2	to a point of wood land on the passing a sand bar the river makeing a Deep bend to the South
N.	75°.	W.	3	to the enterence of a river on the Stard Side in a bend, where we encamped for the night.
			25

[Lewis:]

Tuesday April 30th. 1805.

Set out at sunrise. the wind blew hard all last night, and
continued to blow pretty hard all day, but not so much, as to
compell us to ly by. the country as usual is bare of timber;
the river bottoms are level and fertile and extensive, but possess
but little timber and that of an indifferent quality even of it's
kind; principally low cottonwood, either too small for building,

or for plank, or broken and dead at top and unsound in
the center of the trunk. saw great quantities of game as usual.
Capt. Clark walked on shore the greater part of the day, the
Interpreter, Charbono and his Indian woman attended him.
past some old Indian lodges built of drift wood; they appear
to be of antient date and not recently inhabited. I walked on
shore this evening and killed a buck Elk, in tolerable order;
it appeared to me to be the largest I had seen, and was therefore
induced to measure it; found it five feet three inches from
the point of the hoof, to the top of the sholders; the leg and
hoof being placed as nearly as possible in the same position
they would have been had the anamal been standing.

Courses and distances of 30th April.

                       

		Miles
S. 15° W.	to a point of timbered land on the Stard. side passing a sand point at 3/4 of a Me. Lard.	2 1/2
S. 22. W.	to the upper point of the high timber in the center of a bend Lard. side at the commencement of a bluff	1 1/2
S. 85. W.	to a point of timbered land on Stard. side opposite to a bluff.	1.
S. 75. W.	to a point of timber at the upper part of a bluff in a bend on Lard. side.	.1/2
N. 40. W.	to the point of a sandbar on the Lard. side, passing a willow point at two miles and a large sandbar on Stard.	5.
S. 40. W.	to a point of woodland on Stard. opposite to a bluff on Lard. the river making a considerable bend on Lard. side	3 1/2
N. 70. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side, passing, at the commencement of this course, a large sand Island in the Lard. bend.	3.
S. 25. W.	to the upper part of the high timber on the Lard. side.	2 1/2
West.	to a point of high timber on the Lard. side, a large sand island in the bend to the Stard. side.	3 1/2
N. 80. W.	to a point of high woods on the Lard. side opposite to which we encamped on a sandbar Stard. side[4]	1
	Miles	24.

[Clark:]

30th. of April Tuesday 1805

The wind blew hard from the N E all last night, we Set
out at Sunrise the wind blew hard the greater part of the day
and part of the time favourable, we did not lie by to day on
account of the wind. I walked on Shore to day our interpreter
& his squar followed, in my walk the squar found & brought
me a bush something like the currunt, which she said bore a
delicious froot and that great quantitis grew on the Rocky
Mountains. This shrub was in bloom has a yellow flower
with a deep cup, the froot when ripe is yellow and hangs in
bunches like cheries, Some of those berries yet remained on
the bushes. The bottoms above the mouth of the last river is
extencive level & fertile and covered with indifferent timber in
the points, the upland appear to rise gradually, I saw Great
numbers of antelopes, also scattering Buffalow, Elk, Deer,
wolves, Gees, ducks & Crows. I Killed 2 Gees which we
dined on to day. Capt Lewis walked on Shore and killed an
elk this evening, and we came too & camped on the S.S.
the countrey on both sides have a butifull appearance.

Course & Distance the 30th of April

                     

		miles
S.	15° W.	2 1/2	to a point of timbered land on the Sd Side passed a sand point at 3/4 of a mile L.S.
S	22° W.	1 1/2	to the upper point of the high timber on the Ld. Side in a bend a Bluff on the Lard.
S	85° W.	1	to a point of timbered land on the Std. Side opposit to a bluff on the Lard Side
S	75° W	1/2	to a point of timber at the upper part of a bluff in a bend to the Lard Side
N.	40° W.	5	to a point of a Sand bar on the Lard Side passing a Willow point at 2 miles, and a large Sand bar on S.S.
S.	40° W.	3 1/2	to a point of wood land on Std. Side opposit to a Bluff on the L. Side the [river] makeing a considerable bend L.S
N.	70° W.	3	to a point of wood land on the Lard Side passing at the commencement of this course a large sand Island in the Lard bend.
S.	25°. W.	2 1/2	miles to the upper part of a high timber on the Lard Side
West		3 1/2	to a point of high timber on the Lard Side a large sand Island in the bend to the Std Side.
N.	80°.	W 1/24	to a point of high woods on the Larboard Side

[Lewis:]

Wednesday May 1st.. 1805.

Set out this morning at an early [hour], the wind being
favourable we used our sales which carried us on at a good pace
untill about 12 OCk. when the wind became so high that the
small canoes were unable to proceed one of them which
seperated from us just befor the wind became so violent, is
now lying on the opposite side of the river, being unable to
rejoin us in consequence of the waves, which during those gusts
run several feet high. we came too on the Lard. shore in a
handsome bottom well stocked with cottonwood timber; here
the wind compelled us to spend the ballance of the day. we
sent out some hunters who killed a buffaloe, an Elk, a goat
and two beaver. game is now abundant. the country appears
much more pleasant and fertile than that we have passed for
several days; the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better
stocked with timber, which consists principally of cottonwood,
not however of large size; the under-growth willow on the
verge of the river and sandbars, rose bushes, red willow and
the broad leafed willow in the bottom lands; the high country
on either side of the river is one vast plain, intirely destitute
of timber, but is apparently fertile, consisting of a dark rich
mellow looking lome. John Shields sick today with the rheumatism.
Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind. weight
one pound. it measured from the tip of the toe, to the extremity
of the beak, 1. foot 10. Inches; from tip to tip of
wings when extended 2 F. 5 I.; Beak 3 5/8 inches; tale 3 1/8
inches; leg and toe 10 Ins. the eye black, piercing, prominent
and moderately large. the legs are flat thin, slightly imbricated
and of a pale sky blue colour, being covered with feathers as
far as the mustle extends down it, which is about half of it's

length. it has four toes on each foot, three of which, are
connected by a web, the fourth is small and placed at the heel
about the 1/8 of an inch up the leg. the nails are black and
short, that of the middle toe is extreemly singular, consisting
of two nails the one laping on or overlaying the other, the
upper one somewhat the longest and sharpest. the tale contains
eleven feathers of equal length, & of a bluish white colour.
the boddy and underside of the wings, except the large feathers
of the 1st. & 2nd. joints of the same, are white, as are also the
feathers of the upper part of the 4th. joint of the wing and part
of those of the 3rd. adjacent thereto. the large feathers of the
1st or pinion and the 2nd. joint are black; a part of the larger
feathers of the 3rd. joint on the upper side and all the small
feathers which cover the upper part of the wings are black, as
are also the tuft of long feathers on each side of the body
above the joining of the wing, leaving however a stripe of
white between them on the back. the head and neck are
shaped much like the grey plover, and are of a light brickdust
brown; the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the
head, and from thence becoming thiner and tapering to a very
sharp point, the upper chap being 1/8 of an inch the longest
turns down at the point and forms a little hook. the nostrils,
which commence near the head are long, narrow, connected
and paraellel with the beak; the beak is much curved, the
curvature being upwards in stead of downwards as is common
with most birds; the substance of the beak precisely resembles
whalebone at a little distance, and is quite as flexable as that
substance. their note resembles that of the grey plover, tho'
is reather louder and more varied, their habits appear also to
be the same, with this difference; that it sometimes rests on the
water and swims which I do not recollect having seen the
plover do. this bird which I shall henceforth stile the Missouri
plover, generally feeds about the shallow bars of the river, to
collect it's food which consists of [blank space in MS.], it
immerces it's beak in the water and throws it's head and beak
from side to side at every step it takes.[5] .

Courses and distances of this day

             

N. 88. W.	to the upper point of some high timber in a bend on the Stard. side	Miles 1 1/2
South.	to the upper point of a timbered bottom Lard.Sd.	2
S. 26°. W.	to a bluff on the Lard. side	1 1/2
S. 60°. W.	to a single tree on a point Lard. side.	1.
West.	to a point of woodland Lard. side.	2.
S. 60° W.	to a point of woodland just beneath the upper point of an elivated plane on Stard. side. one mile short of which we encamped on the Lard.	2
		10.

[Clark:]

May the 1st.. Wednesday 1805.

We set out at sun rise under a stiff Breeze from the East,
the morning cool & cloudy. one man J. Shields sick with
rhumetism. one of the men (Shannon) shot a Gull or pleaver,
which is about the Size of an Indian hen, with a Sharp pointed
bill turning up & 4 Inches long, the head and neck of a light
brown, the breast, the under feathers of the 2nd and 3d. joint of
the wings, the Short feathers on the upper part of the 3rd joint
of the wings, down the back the rump & tail white. The
large feathers of the 1st joints of the wing the upper feathers
of the 2d joints of the wings, on the body on the joints of the
wing and the bill is black. the legs long and of a skie blue.
The feet webed &c. This fowl may be properly stiled the
Missouri Pleaver. the wind became verry Hard and we put
too on the L. Side, as the wind continued with some degree of
violence and the waves too high for the Canoes we were obliged
to stay all day

Course & Distance 1st. of May

               

	miles
N. 88°. W.	1 1/2	to the upper point of some high timber in a bend to the Std. Side
South	2	to the upper part of a timber Ld Side
S. 26°. W.	1 1/2	to a Bluff on the Lard Side
S. 60°. W	1	to a Single tree on a point [on] the Lard Side
West	2	to a point [of] wood land Lard Side
S. 60°. W.	2	to a wood at the upper part of an elivated plain on the S. Side, one mile short of which we camped
	10

[Lewis:]

Thursday May 2nd. 1805.

The wind continued violent all night nor did it abate much
of it's violence this morning, when at daylight it was attended
with snow which continued to fall untill about 10 A.M.
being about one inch deep, it formed a singular contrast with
the vegitation which was considerably advanced. some flowers
had put forth in the plains, and the leaves of the cottonwood
were as large as a dollar. sent out some hunters who killed 2
deer 3 Elk and several buffaloe; on our way this evening we
also shot three beaver along the shore; these anamals in consequence
of not being hunted are extreemly gentle, where they
are hunted they never leave their lodges in the day, the flesh
of the beaver is esteemed a delecacy among us; I think the
tale a most delicious morsal, when boiled it resembles in flavor
the fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is usually
sufficiently large to afford a plentifull meal for two men.
Joseph Fields one of the hunters who was out today found
several yards of scarlet cloth which had been suspended on the
bough of a tree near an old indian hunting cam[p], where it
had been left as a sacrefice to the deity by the indians, probably
of the Assinniboin nation, it being a custom with them as
well as all the nations inhabiting the waters of the Missouri so
far as they are known to us, to offer or sacrefice in this manner
to the deity wat-ever they may be possessed off which they
think most acceptable to him, and very honestly making their
own feelings the test of those of the deity offer him the article
which they most prize themselves. this being the most usual
method of we[r]shiping the great sperit as they term the
deity, is practiced on interesting occasions, or to produce the
happy eventuation of the important occurrances incident to
human nature, such as relief from hungar or mallady, protection
from their enemies or the delivering them into their
hands, and with such as cultivate, to prevent the river's overflowing
and distroying their crops &c. s[a]crefices of a
similar kind are also made to the deceased by their friends
and relatives. the are was very piercing this evening the
[water] friezed on the oars as they rowed. the wind dying at
5.P.M. we set out.

Courses and distance 2ed. May.

       

S.	70°.	E.	to the upper point of the timber on the Lard. side in a bend, passing a point of timber on the Lard. side at 1/4 of a mile	2
S.	10°.	E.	to a point of wood land on the Stard. side	1/2
S.	30°.	W.	to a point of low timber on the Lard. side, a little above which on the Stard. side, we encamped, having passed some wider fertile bottoms and beatifull high level plains	2
				4 1/2

every thing which is incomprehensible to the indians they
call big medicine, and is the opperation of the presnts [presence
—Ed.] and power of the great sperit. this morning one of
the men shot the indian dog that had followed us for several
days, he would steal their cooked provision.

[Clark:]

May 2nd. Thursday 1805

The wind blew verry hard all the last night, this morning
about sunrise began to Snow, (The Thermomt′. at 28. abov 0)
and continued untill about 10 oClock, at which time it seased,
the wind continued hard untill about 2 P.M. the Snow which
fell to day was about 1 In deep, a verry extraodernarey climate,
to behold the trees Green & flowers spred on the plain,
& Snow an inch deep. we Set out about 3 oClock and proceeded
on about five 1/2 miles and encamped on the Std Side,
the evening verry cold, Ice freesing to the Ores. I shot a
large beaver & Drewyer three in walking on the bank, the
flesh of those animals the party is fond of eating &c.

Course & Distance 2d May

         

S.	70°.	E .	2	miles to the upper point of the timber on the Lard Side in a bend, passing a point of timber on the L.S. at a quarter of a mile
S.	10°.	E	1/2	mile to a point of wood Land on the Starboard Side
S.	30°.	W	2	miles to a point of Low timber on the Lard Side a little above which on the Starboard Side we encamped
			4 1/2
				2 deer and 3 Elk killed

[Lewis:]

Friday May 3rd. 1805.

The morning being very could we did not set out as early
as usual; ice formed on a kettle of water 1/4 of an inch thick.
the snow has melted generally in the bottoms, but the hills
still remain covered. on the lard side at the distance of 2
miles we passed a curious collection of bushes which had been
tyed up in the form of a faciene [fascine—Ed.] and standing
on end in the open bottom it appeared to be about 30 feet high
and ten or twelve feet in diameter, this we supposed to have
been placed there by the Indians, as a sacrefice for some purpose.
The wind continued to blow hard from the West but
not so strong as to compel us to ly by. Capt Clark walked
on shore and killed an Elk which he caused to be butch[er]ed
by the time I arrived with the party, here we halted and
dined being about 12 OCk. our usual time of halting for that
purpose. after dinner Capt. Clark pursued his walk, while I
continued with the party, it being a rule which we had established,
never to be absent at the same time from the party.
the plains or high lands are much less elivated than they were,
not being more than from 50 to 60 feet above the river
bottom, which is also wider than usual being from 5 to 9 Ms
in width; traces of the ancient beds of the river are visible in
many places through the whole extent of this valley. since
the hills have become lower the appearance of the stratas of
coal burnt hills and pumice stone have in a great measure
ceased; I saw none today. we saw vast quantities of Buffaloe,
Elk, deer principally of the long tale kind, Antelope or goats,
beaver, geese, ducks, brant and some swan. near the entrance
of the river mentioned in the 10th course of this day, we saw
an unusual number of Porcupines from which we determined
to call the river after that anamal, and accordingly denominated
it Porcupine river.[6] this stream discharges itself into the
Missouri on the Stard. side 2000 miles above the mouth of the
latter, it is a beatifull bold runing stream, 40 yards wide at
it's entrance; the water is transparent, it being the first of this
discription that I have yet seen discharge itself into the Missouri;

before it enters a large sand bar through which it discharges
itself into the missouri it's banks and bottom are
formed of a stiff blue and black clay; it appears to be navigable
for canoes and perogues at this time and I have no
doubt but it might be navigated with boats of a considerable
size in high water. it's banks appear to be from 8 to ten feet
high and seldom overflow; from the quantity of water furnished
by this river, the appearance of the country, the direction
it pursues, and the situation of it's entrance, I have but
little doubt but it takes it's source not far from the main body
of the Suskashawan river, and that it is probably navigable
150 Miles; perhaps not very distant from that river. should
this be the case, it would afford a very favorable communication
to the Athebaskay country, from whence the British
N.W. Company derive so large a portion of their valuable
furs. Capt. Clark who ascended this river several 'miles and
passed it above where it entered the hills informed me on his
return that he found the general width of the bed of the river
about one hundred yards, where he passed the river the bed
was 112 yards wide, the water was knee deep and 38 yard in
width; the river which he could observe from the rising
grounds for about 20 miles, bore a little to the East of North.
there was a considerable portion of timber in the bottom lands
of this river. Capt Clark also met with limestone on the
surface of the earth in the course of his walk. he also saw a
range of low mountains at a distance to the W of N, their
direction being N.W. the country in the neighbo[rhood] of
this river, and as far as the eye can reach, is level, fertile, open
and beatifull beyond discription. 1/4 of a mile above the
entrance of this river a large creek falls in which we called
2000 Mile Creek. I sent Rubin Fields to examine it, he
reported it to be a bold runing stream, it's bed 30 yards wide.
we proceeded about 3 miles above this creek and encamped on
the Stard. shore. I walked out a little distance and met with 2
porcupines which were feeding on the young willow which
grow in great abundance on all the sandbars; this anamal is
exceedingly clumsy and not very watchfull I approached so
near one of them before it percieved me that I touched it with
my espontoon. found the nest of a wild goose among some
driftwood in the river from which we took three eggs. this is
the only nest we have met with on driftwood, the usual position
is the top of a broken tree, sometimes in the forks of a
large tree but almost invariably, from 15 to 20 feet or upwards
high.

Courses and distances May 3rd.. 1805.

                           

				Miles
N.	50°.	W.	to a point of high timber in a bend Stard.	3/4
S.	65 °.	W.	to a point of high timber in the center of a bend on Lard. side	2 1/4
N.	40.	W.	to a point of woodland Stard. side	1.
N.	55°.	W.	to some dead timber in a Stard. bend	2 1/2
South			to the upper part of the high timber in a bend on the Lard. side.	3
S .	80°.	W.	to a point of woodland Stard side	1/2
S.	85°.	W.	to the commencement of the timber on the Lard. side in a bend	1 1/4
North.			to the upper part of the high timber in a bend on the Stard., passing a sand point at 1/2 mile on Lard.	1 1/2
S.	65°.	W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side.	1/2
S.	75°	W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side, at the entrance of a large river on the Stard. side, called Porcupine R.	1 3/4
S.	45°.	W.	to the high timber on the lard. side, passing the entrance of 2000 mile Creek at 1/4 of a mile on Lard. side.	3.
N.	40°.	W.	to some high timber on the Stard. side, just above an old channel of the river on the Stard. where we encampd.	1/2
			Miles	18 1/2

[Clark:]

May 3rd Friday 1805

we Set out reather later this morning than useal owing to
weather being verry cold, a frost last night and the Thermt
stood this morning at 26 above 0. which is 6 degrees b[e]low
freeseing. the ice that was on the Kettle left near the fire last
night was 1/4 of an inch thick. The snow is all or nearly all
off the low bottoms, the Hills are entireley covered; three of
our party found in the back of a bottom 3 pieces of scarlet one

brace in each, which had been left as a sacrifice near one of their
swet houses, on the L.S. we passed to day a curious collection
of bushes tied up in the shape of faccene about 10 feet diamuter,
which must have been left also by the natives as an offering to
their medison which they [are] convinced protected or gave
them relief near the place, the wind continued to blow hard
from the West, altho not sufficently so to detain us. I walked
on shore and killed an Elk & had him bucchered by the time
the Perogus came up which was the usial time of dineing.
The high lands are low and from 5 to 9 miles apart and there
is evident marks of the bead [bed] of the river having been
changed frequently but little appearance of the coal & burnt
hills to day. Great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, Deer, antilope,
beaver, Porcupins, & water fowls seen to day, such as, Geese,
ducks of dift. kinds, & a fiew Swan. I continued my walk on
shore after dinner, and arrived at the mouth of a river on the
St. Side, which appeared to be large, and I concluded to go up
this river a few miles to examine it accordingly I set out
North 1 mile thro wood or timbered bottom, 2 miles through
a butifull leavel plain, and 1 mile over a high plain about 50
feet higher than the bottom, & came to the little river, which
I found to be a butifull clear Stream of about 100 yds from
bank to bank, (I waded this river at the narrowest part and
made it 112 steps from bank to bank and at this place which
was a kind of fording place the water was near Knee deep,
and 38 steps wide, the bottom of a hard stiff Black clay, I
observed a Great perportion of timber in the bottoms of this
river as far as I could See which was to the East of N. 18 or
20 miles, it appears to be navagable at this time for canoes,
and from appearances must be navagable a long distance for
Perogus & boats in high water. This river we call Porcupines
from the great number of those anamals found about it's
mouth. a Short distance above about 1/4 mile and on the
Lard Side a large Creek falls in, which R. Fields went to
examine & reports that it is a bold running stream 30 yds
wide as this creek is 2000 miles up the Missouri we call it
the 2000 mile Creek, we proceeded on 3 miles & camped on
the S.S. here I joined Capt Lewis who had in my absence
walkd on the upper Side of Porcupine River for some distance.
This river from its size & quantity of water must head at no
great distance from the Saskashawan on this river I saw
emence herds [of] Elk & Buffalow & many deer & Porcupine.
I also saw the top of a mountain which did not appear verry
high to the West of N. & bore N W. I saw on the high
land limestone & pebble. The countrey about the mouth
of this river and as far as the eye can reach is butifull open
countrey. The greater part of the snow is melted.

Course & Distance 3d. of May 1805

                           

	mile
N. 50 °. W	3/4	to a point of high timber on the Std. Side in a bend
S. 65°. W.	2 1/4	to a point of high timber on the Ld. Sd. about the middle of a bend L.S.
N. 40°. W	1	mile to a point of wood land Std. Side
N. 55 W	2 1/2	miles to some dead timber in Std. bend
South	3	to the upper part of a timber in a bend to the Lard Side
N. 80°. W.	1/2	to a pt. of wood land Std. Side
S. 85°. W.	1 1/4	to the commencement of a timber on the Lard Side in a bend
North	1 1/2	to the upper part of the high timber in a bend on the Stard Side passing a Sand point at 1/2 a mile
S. 65°. W.	1/2	to a point of wood Land on the Ld Side
S 75°. W.	1 3/4	to a point of wood land on the Std Side at the mouth of a large river on the Std Side
S 45°. W	3 m.	to a high timber on the Lard Side passed the mouth of 2000 mile Creek at 1/4 of a mile on the Lard Side
N. 40°. W.	1/2	to some high timber on the S. Side just above an old channel of the river Std Side. encamped
	18 1/2

[Lewis:]

Saturday May 4th. 1805.

We were detained this morning untill about 9 OCk. in order
to repare the rudder irons of the red perogue which were
broken last evening in landing; we then set out, the wind
hard against us. I walked on shore this morning, the weather
was more plesant, the snow has disappeared; the frost seems
to have effected the vegetation much less than could have been

expected the leaves of the cottonwood the grass the box alder
willow and the yellow flowering pea seem to be scarcely
touched; the rosebushes and honeysuckle seem to have sustaned
the most considerable injury. The country on both
sides of the Missouri continues to be open level fertile and
beautifull as far as the eye can reach which from some of the
eminences is not short of 30 Miles. the river bottoms are
very extensive and contain a much greater proportion of timber
than usual; the fore part of this day the river was bordered
with timber on both sides, a circumstance which is extreemly
rare and the first which has occurred of any thing like the same
extent since we left the Mandans. in the after part of the day
we passed an extensive beautifull plain on the Stard. side which
gradually ascended from the river. I saw immence quantities
of buffaloe in every direction, also some Elk deer and goats;
having an abundance of meat on hand I passed them without
firing on them; they are extreemly gentle the bull buffaloe
particularly will scarcely give way to you. I passed several in
the open plain within fifty paces, they viewed me for a moment
as something novel and then very unconcernedly continued to
feed. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening and did not
rejoin us untill after dark, he struck the river several miles
above our camp and came down to us. we saw many beaver
some [of] which the party shot, we also killed two deer today.
much sign of the brown bear. passed several old Indian hunting
camps in the course of the day one of them contained
two large lodges which were fortifyed with old driftwood and
fallen timber; this fortification consisted of a circular fence of
timber lade horizontally laping on and over laying each other
to the hight of 5 feet. these pounds are sometimes built from
20 to 30 feet in diameter and covered over with the trunks
and limbs of old timber. the usual construction of the lodges
we have lately passed is as follows. three or more strong sticks
the thickness of a man's leg or arm and about 12 feet long are
attatched together at one end by a with of small willows, these
are then set on end and spread at the base, forming a circle of
ten twelve or 14 feet in diameter; sticks of driftwood and
fallen timber of convenient size are now placed with one end
on the ground and the other resting against those which are
secured together at top by the with and which support and
give the form to the whole, thus the sticks are laid on untill
they make it as thick as they design, usually about three
ranges, each piece breaking or filling up the interstice of the
two beneath it, the whole forming a connic figure about 10 feet
high with a small apperture in one side which answers as a
door. leaves bark and straw are sometimes thrown over the
work to make it more complete, but at best it affords a very
imperfect shelter particularly without straw which is the state
in which we have most usually found them.

Courses and distances of the 4th. of May

             

S. 80°. W.	to a point of timber on the Stard. side	3.
S. 72°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. side river wide and filled with sandbars	5.
S. 50°. W.	to the mouth of a small creek in a deep bend on Lard. side, a sand Island opposite	1 1/2
N. 10°. W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side passing a Stard. point at 1 1/4 miles	3.
S. 45°. W.	to a willow point on the Stard. side, the river making a considerable bend to the N. an open plain on the Stard.	4
S. 70°. W.	to a point of timbered land on the Stard. where we encamped.	1 1/2
	Miles	18.

At noon the sun was so much obscured that I could not
obtain his maridian Altitude which I much wished in order to
fix the latitude of the entrance of Porcupine river. Joseph
Fields was very sick today with the disentary had a high fever
I gave him a doze of Glauber salts, which operated very well,
in the evening his fever abated and I gave him 30 drops of
laudnum.

[Clark:]

May 4th.. Satturday 1805

The rudder Irons of our large Perogue broke off last night,
the replaceing of which detained us this morning untill 9
oClock at which time we set out the wind a head from the

west, The countrey on each side of the Missouri is a rich
high and butifull the bottoms are extencive with a great deal
of timber on them all the fore part of this day the wood land
bordered the river on both Sides, in the after part a butifull
assending plain on the Std Side we camped on the Std. Side a
little above. we passed a Small Creek on the L. Side near
which I saw where an Indian lodge had been fortified many
year past. Saw great numbers of anamals of different kinds
on the banks, I saw the black martin to day. in the evening
I walkd on Shore on the Std Side & Struck the river Several
miles above our camp & did not get to Camp untill some time
after night. we have one man Sick. The river has been falling
for several days passed; it now begins to rise a little, the
rate of rise & fall is from one to 3 inches in 24 hours

Course & Distance the 4th. of May

               

	miles
S. 80°. W.	3,	to a point of timber on the Stard. Side.
S. 72°. W.	5.	to a point of wood land on the Std. Side. river wide & maney sand bars
S. 50°. W	1 1/2	to the mouth of a creek in a Deep bend to the Lard. Side. a sand Isd. opsd.
N 10° W.	3.	to a point of wood Land on the Lard. Side passing a point S Side 1 1/4 miles.
S 45°. W.	4	to a willow point on the Stard. Side, the river makeing a considerable [bend] arround to the North an open plain
S. 70°. W.	1 1/2	to a point of timbered land on the Stard Side, where we encamped
	miles 18

[Lewis:]

Sunday May 5th 1805

A fine morning I walked on shore untill after 8 A.M.
when we halted for breakfast and in the course of my walk
killed a deer which I carried about a mile and a half to the
river, it was in good order. soon after seting out the rudder
irons of the white perogue were broken by her runing fowl on
a sawyer, she was however refitted in a few minutes with some
tugs of raw hide and nales. as usual saw a great quantity of

game today; Buffaloe Elk and goats or Antelopes feeding in
every direction; we kill whatever we wish, the buffaloe furnish
us with fine veal and fat beef, we also have venison and
beaver tales when we wish them; the flesh of the Elk and
goat are less esteemed, and certainly are inferior. we have not
been able to take any fish for some time past. The country is
as yesterday beatifull in the extreme. saw the carcases of
many Buffaloe lying dead along the shore partially devoured
by the wolves and bear. saw a great number of white brant
also the common brown brant, geese of the common kind
and a small species of geese which differ considerably from
the common canadian goose;[7] their neck head and beak are
considerably thicker shorter and larger than the other in proportion
to it's size, they are also more than a third smaller,
and their note more like that of the brant or a young goose
which has not perfectly acquired his notes, in all other
rispects they are the same in colour habits and the number
of feathers in the tale, they frequently also ascociate with the
large geese when in flocks, but never saw them pared off with
the large or common goose. The white brant ascociate in
very large flocks, they do not appear to be mated or pared
off as if they intended to raise their young in this quarter, I
therefore doubt whether they reside here during the summer
for that purpose. this bird is about the size of the common
brown brant or two thirds of the common goose, it is not so
long by six inches from point to point of the wings when
extended as the other; the beak head and neck are also larger
and stronger; their beak legs and feet are of a redish or flesh-coloured
white. the eye is of moderate size, the puple of a
deep sea green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown. it
has sixteen feathers of equal length in the tale; their note
differs but little from the common brant, their flesh much the
same, and in my opinion preferable to the goose, the flesh is
dark. they are entirely of a beatifull pure white except the
large feathers of the 1st and second joints of the wings which
are jut [jet] black. form and habits are the same with the
other brants; they sometimes ascociate and form one common
flock. Capt Clark found a den of young wolves in the course
of his walk today and also saw a great number of those
anamals; they are very abundant in this quarter, and are of
two species the small woolf or burrowing dog of the praries
are the inhabitants almost invariably of the open plains; they
usually ascociate in bands of ten or twelve sometimes more
and burrow near some pass or place much frequented by
game; not being able alone to take a deer or goat they are
rarely ever found alone but hunt in bands; they frequently
watch and seize their prey near their burrows; in these burrows
they raise their young and to them they also resort when
pursued; when a person approaches them they frequently
bark, their note being precisely that of the small dog. they
are of an intermediate size between that of the fox and dog,
very active fleet and delicately formed; the ears large erect
and pointed the head long and pointed more like that of the
fox; tale long and bushey; the hair and fur also resembles
the fox tho' is much coarser and inferior. they are of a pale
redish brown colour. the eye of a deep sea green colour small
and piercing. their tallons are reather longer than those of
the ordinary wolf or that common to the atlantic States, none
of which are to be found in this quarter, nor I believe above
the river Plat.[8] The large woolf found here is not as large as
those of the atlantic states. they are lower and thicker made
shorter leged. their colour which is not effected by the
seasons, is a grey or blackish brown and every intermediate
shade from that to a creen [cream] coloured white; these
wolves resort [to] the woodlands and are also found in the
plains, but never take refuge in the ground or burrow so far as
I have been able to inform myself. we scarcely see a gang of
buffaloe without observing a parsel of those faithfull shepherds
on their skirts in readiness to take care of the mamed wounded.
the large wolf never barks, but howls as those of the atlantic
states do. Capt. Clark and Drewyer killed the largest brown
bear this evening which we have yet seen. it was a most
tremendious looking anamal, and extreemly hard to kill notwithstanding
he had five balls through his lungs and five
others in various parts he swam more than half the distance
acoss the river to a sandbar, & it was at least twenty minutes
before he died; he did not attempt to attack, but fled and
made the most tremendous roaring from the moment he was
shot. We had no means of weighing this monster; Capt.
Clark thought he would weigh 500 lbs. for my own part I
think the estimate too small by 100 lbs. he measured 8. Feet
7 1/2 Inches from the nose to the extremety of the hind feet,
5 F. 10 1/2 Ins. arround the breast, 1 F. 11. I. arround the
middle of the arm, & 3.F. 11.1. arround the neck; his tallons
which were five in number on each foot were 4 3/8 Inches in
length. he was in good order, we therefore divided him
among the party and made them boil the oil and put it in a
cask for future uce; the oil is as hard as hogs lard when cool,
much more so than that of the black bear. this bear differs
from the common black bear in several respects; it's tallons
are much longer and more blont, it's tale shorter, it's hair
which is of a redish or bey brown, is longer thicker and finer
than that of the black bear; his liver lungs and heart are much
larger even in proportion with his size; the heart particularly
was as large as that of a large Ox. his maw was also ten
times the size of black bear, and was filled with flesh and fish.
his testicles were pendant from the belly and placed four
inches assunder in seperate bags or pouches. this animal also
feeds on roots and almost every species of wild fruit.

The party killed two Elk and a Buffaloe today, and my dog
caught a goat, which he overtook by superior fleetness, the
goat it must be understood was with young and extreemly
poor. a great number of these goats are devowered by the
wolves and bear at this season when they are poor and passing
the river from S.W. to N.E. they are very inactive and
easily taken in the water, a man can out swim them with great

ease; the Indians take them in great numbers in the river at
this season and in autumn when they repass to the S.W.

Courses and distances of May 5th.. 1805. Mls.

             

S. 70° W.	to the willows on the lower point of an Island near the Stard. shore, opposite a low bluff	3
S. 72° W.	to some high timber on a projecting point on the Stard. side opposite a pot. Lard. passing the upper part of Isld. at 2 miles	2 1/2
S. 30° W.	to a point of woodland on the Stard. opposite a low bluff on Lard. side	2 1/2
N. 48° W.	to a point of woodland on the Lard. side	2 1/4
N. 45° W.	to the extremity of the sand bar from the Lard. point	1 3/4
South.	to a willow point on the Stard. side short of which we encamped on Stard	5
	Miles	17.

Point of observation No. 9.

On the Lard. shore near the fourth course of this day, observed meridian
Altitude of the ☉s. L. L. with Octant by the back observation to
be 68° 47′; the latitude deduced from which is 45° 46′ 5″6. I do
think this observation can be depended on as it was reather late before I
could commence it, the sun was about to decline or perhaps had declined
a few minutes.

[Clark:]

5th of May Sunday 1805

We set out verry early and had not proceeded far before
the rudder Irons of one of the Perogus broke which detained
us a short time Capt Lewis walked on shore this morning
and killed a Deer, after brackfast I walked on shore Saw
great numbers of Buffalow & Elk Saw also a Den of young
wolves, and a number of Grown Wolves in every direction,
the white & Grey Brant is in this part of the Missouri I shot
at the white brant but at so great a distance I did not kill,
The Countrey on both sides is as yesterday handsom & fertile.
The river rising & current Strong & in the evening we saw a
Brown or Grisley beare on a sand beech, I went out with one
man Geo Drewyer & Killed the bear, which was verry large
and a turrible looking animal, which we found verry hard to

kill we Shot ten Balls into him before we killed him, & 5 of
those Balls through his lights. This animal is the largest of
the carnivorous kind I ever saw we had nothing that could
way him, I think his weight may be stated at 500 pounds, he
measured 8 feet 7 1/2 Ins. from his nose to the extremity of the
Toe, 5 feet 10 1/2 Ins. arround the breast, 1 feet 11 Ins: around
the middle of the arm, 3 feet 11 Ins. arround the neck his
tallents was 4 Inches & 3/5 long, he was [in] good order,
and appeared verry different from the common black bear in
as much as his tallents (talon or nail) were blunt, his tail short,
his liver & lights much larger, his maw ten times as large and
contained meat or flesh & fish only. we had him skined and
divided, the oile tried up & put in Kegs for use. we camped
on the Stad Side, our men killed three Elk and a Buffalow
to day, and our Dog cought an antilope a fair race, this animal
appeared verry pore & with young.

Course & Distance 5th. of May

             

S. 70°. W.	3	miles to the willows on the lower point of an Island near the Sd. Side opposit a low bluff.
S. 72°. W.	2 1/2	miles to some high timber on a projecting point on the Stad. Side opsd. a pt L.S., passed the Isds. at 2 miles
S. 30°. W.	2 1/2	miles to a point of wood land on the Stard Side opsd. a low Bluff L. Side
N. 48°. W	2 1/4	miles to a point of wood land on the Lard Side
N. 45°. W.	1 3/4	miles to the extremity of the sand bar from the Lard point
South	5	miles to a willow point on the Stard Side short of which we encamped
miles	17