University of Virginia Library

Search this document 
Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
expand section 
expand section 
  

expand sectionI. 
collapse sectionII. 
Chapter II
expand section 
expand sectionIII. 
expand sectionIV. 
expand sectionV. 
expand sectionVI. 
expand sectionVII. 
expand sectionVIII. 


89

Page 89

Chapter II

FROM THE PLATTE TO VERMILION RIVER

II. Clark's Journal, July 23—August 24, 1804

[Clark:]

Camp White Catfish Nine [10] Miles above the Platt River,
Monday the 23d. of July
1804—

A FAIR morning Set a party to look for timber for
Ores, two parties to hunt, at 11 oClock Sent off
George Drewyer & Peter Crousett with some tobacco
to invite the Otteaus if at their town and Panies if they saw
them, to come and talk with us at our Camp &c. &c. (at this
Season the Indians on this river are in the Praries hunting the
Buffalow, but from some signs of hunters, near this place &
the Plains being on fire near their towns induce a belief that
they this nation have returned to get some Green Corn or
roasting Ears) raised a flag Staff Sund and Dryed our provisions
&c. I commence Coppying a Map of the river below
to Send to the P. [President—Ed.] U. S. five Deer Killed
to day one man with a tumer on his breast, Prepared our
Camp the men put their arms in order Wind hard this afternoon
from the N. W.[1]

July 26th. Thursday

     
A M  7 h  33m  32 s  P. M.  4 h  15 m  22 s 
34  55  16  51 
36  22  18  14 

altitude given not put down

 
[1]

The astronomical observations following, have been transferred to "Scientific
Data."—Ed.


90

Page 90

White Catfish Camp 10 Ms. above Platt,
24th of July 1804 Tuesday

a fair day the wind blows hard from the South, the Breezes
which are verry frequent in this part of the Missouri is cool
and refreshing. Several hunters out to day, but as the game
of all kinds are Scerce only two Deer were brought in. I
am much engaged drawing off a map, Capt. Lewis also much
engaged in prepareing Papers to Send back by a perogue—
which we intended to Send back from the river Platt[2] observations
at this place makes the Lattitude 41°. 3′ 19″ North.

This evening Guthrege Cought a White Catfish, its eyes
Small & tale much like that of a Dolfin.

 
[2]

Coues here remarks (L. and C., i, p. 54): "Nothing was dispatched to Jefferson
till Apr. 7, 1805" (that is, from Fort Mandan).—Ed.

White Catfish Camp 25th. of July Wednesday

a fair morning Several hunters out to day, at 2 oClock
Drewyer & Peter returned from the Otteau village, and informs
that no Indians were at their towns, they saw Some
fresh Signs of a Small party But Could not find them. in
their rout to the Towns (which is about 18 miles West) they
passed thro a open Prarie crossed papillion or Butterfly Creek
and a Small butifull river which run into the Plate a little
below the Town called Corne de charf [corne de Cerf] or Elk
Horn river
this river is about 100 yards wide with Clear
water & a gravely Channel. wind from the S. E. two Deer
killed to day 1 Turkey Several Grous Seen to day.[3]

 
[3]

Biddle here gives (i, pp. 33, 34) an account of the various Indian tribes of that
region—Oto, Pawnee, Arapaho, Kiowa, Comanche, etc.—Ed.

Catfish which is White Camp
26th. of July Thursday 1804—

the wind Blustering and hard from the South all day which
blowed the clouds of Sand in Such a manner that I could not
complete my pan [plan] in the tent, the Boat roled in Such
a manner that I could do nothing in that, & was Compessed
[compelled] to go to the woods and combat with the Musquetors,


91

Page 91
I opened the Tumer of a man on the left breast,
which discharged half a point [pint].

five Beaver Cough[t] near the Camp the flesh of which we
made use of. This evening we found verry pleasant. only
one Deer killed to day. The countrey back from Camp on
the S. S. is a bottom of about five mile wide, one half the
distance wood & the bals, plain high & Dry. The opposit
Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundation Covd. with
timber, back & below is a Plain.

White Catfish Camp 10ms. above Platt 27th of July Friday,—

a small Shower of rain this morning, at 10 oClock Commence
Loading the Boat & perogue, had all the ores completely
fixed; Swam over the two remaining horses to the
L. S. with the view of the Hunters going on that Side, after
getting everry thing complete, we Set Sale under a gentle
breeze from the South and proceeded on, passed a Island
(formd. by a Pond fed by Springs) on the L. S. of high Land
covered with timber, in the 2nd. bend to the right a large Sand
Island in the river a high Prarie on the S. S. as we were Setting
out to day one man Killed a Buck & another Cut his
Knee verry bad. Camped in a Bend to the L. Side in a
coops [copse] of Trees, a verry agreeable Breeze from the
N. W. this evening. I killed a Deer in the Prarie and found
the Musquitors so thick & troublesom that it was disagreeable
and painfull to Continue a moment still.

Course & Distance, refrs. July the 27th.

           
North  1 1/2  Ms. to a willow pt. on the L. S. 
West  Ms. to Sand pt. on S. S. opsd. a pond L. S. 
N. 10°. E.  Ms. to pt. of W. L. S. psd. a large Sd. bar in the middle
of the river 
N. 8° W.  Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. Some Mounds [Ottos village
old Ayauwaus v.] on the L. S. psd. Bluff S. S. 
N. 54° E.  4 1/2  Ms. to a pt. of wood land in a bend on L. S. psd. a 
15  pt. S. S. 

I took one man R. Fields and walked on Shore with a view
of examoning Som Mounds on the L. S. of the river those


92

Page 92
Mounds I found to be of Different hight Shape & Size, Some
Composed of sand some earth & Sand, the highest next to
the river all of which covered about 200 acres of land, in a
circular form, on the Side from the river a low bottom &
small Pond. The Otteaus formerly lived here I did not get
to the boat untill after night.

July the 28th. Satturday 1804—

Set out this morning early, the wind from the N. W. by
N. a Dark Smokey Morning Some rain passed at 1 ml. a
Bluff on the S. S.[4] the first high land above the Nodaway
aproaching the river on that Side, a Island and Creek 15 yds.
wide on the S. S. above this Bluff, as this Creek has no name
call it Indian Knob Creek our party on Shore Came to the
river and informs that they heard fireing to the S. W. below[5]
this High Land on the S. S. the Aiauway Indians formerly
lived, below this old village about 5 miles passed Some
Monds on the L. S. in a bend where the Otteauze Indians
formerly lived, this Situation I examined, found it well situated
for Defence, about 2 or 300 acres of Land Covered with
Mounds

The flank came in & informed they heard two Guns to the
S. W. the high land approaches in the 1st. bend to the left,
we camped on the S. S. below the point of an Island, G
Drewyer brought in a Missourie Indian which he met with hunting
in the Prarie This Indian is one of the fiew remaining
of that nation, & lives with the Otteauz, his Camp about 4
Miles from the river, he informs that the 'great gangue'
[body —Biddle] of the Nation were hunting the Buffalow
in the Plains. his party was Small Consisting only of about
20 Lodges.[6] [Blank space in MS.] Miles further another
Camp where there was a french man, who lived in the nation,


93

Page 93
this Indian appear'd Spritely, and appeared to make use of
the Same pronouncation of the Osarge, Calling a Chief Inea

Cours. Distance & reffers. July 28

               
S. 32°. E.  Ml. on the L. Side to pt. of a Sand bar L. S. 
N. 10 W.  1/2  Ml. on the L. S. a High Bluff on the Stabd. S. above the
old village of the Aiaouez, this High land the 1st.
above Nordaway which aproaches the river S. S. 
N. 30° W.  1/2  on the L. Side 
N. 77. W.  Ms. to a pt. on the L. S. psd. an Isd. & Indian Knob
Creek S. S. 
N. 60 W.  Ms. to a pt. on the S. S. passed the aforesaid Island S. S. 
N. 60 W.  3/4  on the S. S. 
N. 63. E  Ms. to a point L. S. opsd. a Island in the M. river 
10 3/4 
 
[4]

A trading post, called Fort Croghan, was afterward built at or near this
bluff—Coues (L. and C., i, p. 61).

[5]

The rest of this paragraph is crossed out by another pen, in the original MS. Biddle
says that the Iowas "emigrated from this place to the river Des Moines." —Ed.

[6]

Floyd here says: "The Reasen this man Gives of His being with So Small a
party is that He Has not Got Horses to Go in the Large praries after the Buflows but
Stayes about the Town and River to Hunte the Elke to seporte thare famileys."— Ed.

July 29th. Sunday 1804—

Sent a french man la Liberty with the Indian to Otteauze
Camp to envite the Indians to meet us on the river above.
a Dark rainey morning wind from the W. N. W. rained all
the last night. Set out at 5 oClock opposit the (I) Island,
the bend to the right or S. S. within 20 feet of Indian knob
Creek, the water of this Creek is 5 feet higher than that of
the River. passed the Isld. we stoped to Dine under Some
high Trees near the high land on the L. S. in a fiew minits
Cought three verry large Cat fish (3) one nearly white, those
fish are in great plenty on the Sides of the river and verry
fat, a quart of Oile Came out of the surpolous fat of one of
those fish (4) above this high land & on the S. S. passed
much falling timber apparently the ravages of a Dreddfull
harican which had passed oblequely across the river from N.
W. to S. E. about twelve months Since, many trees were
broken off near the ground the trunks of which were sound
and four feet in Diameter, (2) about 3/4 of a M1. above the
Island on the S. S. a Creek coms in Called Boyers R. this
Creek is 25 yards wide, one man in attempting to cross
this Creek on a log let his gun fall in, R. Fields Dived &
brought it up proceeded on to a Point on the S. S. and
Camped.


94

Page 94

Course Distance & Refrs. July 29th

             
North  3/4  of a Mile on the L. S. an Island on the right of the
Course (I) 
N. 80° W.  1/2  Ml. to a pt. on the L. Side passed Bowyers Creek S. S. (2) 
N. 85° W.  Ms. to a Wood in a bend on the L. S. below a Hill 
North  3/4  Ml. on the S. S. (3) 
N. 11° E.  3 1/2  Ms. to a tree in the bend S. S. pased a Harican (4) 
N. 70 W.  2 1/2  to a point of wood on the S. S. Camped S. S. 
10 

July 30th. Monday 1804—

Set out this morning early proceeded on to a clear open
Prarie on the L. S. on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the
bottom which is also a Prarie (both forming Bluffs to the river)
of High Grass & Plumb bush Grapes &c. and situated above
high water, in a small Grove of timber at the foot of the
Riseing Ground between those two preraries, and below the
Bluffs of the high Prarie we Came too and formed a Camp[7] ,
intending to waite the return of the frenchman & Indians,
the white horse which we found near the Kanzus river, Died
Last night

Course Distance &c. July 30th.

     
S 82° W.  Ms. to a point of wood on the L. S. above a pt on the
L. S. and opsd. one on S. S. 
West  1 1/4  Ms. to the lower part of a Bluff & High Prarie on L. S. 
3 1/4  came too. 

posted out our guard and sent out 4 men, Captn. Lewis & [I]
went up the Bank and walked a Short Distance in the high
Prarie this Prarie is Covered with Grass of 10 or 12 inches
in hight, Soil of good quality & at the Distance of about a
mile still further back the Countrey rises about 80 or 90 feet
higher, and is one Continued Plain as fur as Can be seen,
from the Bluff on the 2d. rise imediately above our Camp, the
most butifull prospect of the River up & Down and the


95

Page 95
Countrey Opsd. prosented it Self which I ever beheld; The
River meandering the open and butifull Plains, interspursed
with Groves of timber, and each point Covered with Tall
timber, Such as Willow Cotton sum Mulberry, Elm, Sucamore
Lynn & ash (The Groves contain Hickory, Walnut,
coffee nut & Oake in addition) Two ranges of High Land
parrelel to each other, and from 4 to 10 Miles Distant, between
which the river & its bottoms are Contained. (from 70
to 300 feet high)

Joseph Fields Killed and brought in an Anamale Called by
the French Brarow.[8] and by the Panies Cho car tooch this
Anamale Burrows in the Ground and feeds on Flesh, (Prarie
Dogs) Bugs & Vigatables "his Shape & Size is like that of
a Beaver, his head mouth &c. is like a Dogs with Short Ears,
his Tail and Hair like that of a Ground Hog, and longer;
and lighter. his Interals like the interals of a Hog, his Skin,
thick and loose, his Belly is White and the Hair Short, a white
Streek from his nose to his Sholders. The toe nails of his
fore feet is one Inch & 3/4 long, & feet large; the nails of his
hind feet 3/4 of an Inch long, the hind feet Small and toes
Crooked, his legs are short and when he moves Just sufficent
to raise his body above the Ground He is of the Bear
Species. We have his skin stuffed.

Jo. & R. Fields did not return this evening, Several men
with verry bad Boils. Cat fish is cought in any part of the
river Turkeys Geese & a Beaver Killed & Cought every
thing in prime order men in high Spirits. a fair Still evening
Great no. Musquitors this evening

 
[7]

This camp is quite near Fort Calhoun.—E. E. Blackman (of Nebraska State
Historical Society).

[8]

Corruption of blaireau, French name of the badger (Taxidea Americana).—Ed.

July 31st. Tuesday

a fair Day three Hunters out, Took Meridian altitude
made the Lattd 41°. 18′. I″ 5/10 N. R. & Jo. Fields returned
to Camp they Killed 3 Deer; The Horses Strayed off last
night. Drewyer Killed a Buck one inch of fat on the ribs,
R. & Jo. Fields returned without any meet haveing been in
persuit of the horses. The Indians not yet arrived. Cought


96

Page 96
a young Beever alive which is already quite tame. Cought a
Buffalow fish. The evening verry Cool, the Musqu[i]tors are
yet troublesom.

August the 1st. 1804—

a fair morning Despatched two men after the horses lost
yesterday, one man back to the place from which the Messinger
was Sent for the Ottoes to see if any Indians was or had
been there sence our deptr. he return'd and informed that no
person had been there Sence we left it. The Prarie which is
situated below our Camp is above the high water leavel and
rich covered with Grass from 5 to 8 feet high interspersed with
copse of Hazel, Plumbs, Currents (like those of the U. S.)
Rasberries & Grapes of Dift. Kinds, also producing a variety
of Plants and flowers not common in the United States, two
Kind of honeysuckle one which grows to a kind of a Srub
Common about Harrodsburgh in Kentucky the other are not
so large or tall and bears a flour in clusters short and of a light
Pink colour, the leaves differ from any of the other Kinds in
as much as the Lieves are destinct & does not surround the
stalk as all the other kind do.

One Elk and three Deer Killed to day also two Beever
Cought

The wind rose at 10 oClock from the W. S. W. and blew a
steady and agreeable Breeze all Day.

The Musquitors verry troublesom this evening in the
bottom.

Took equal altitudes to day and the azmuth with the commencement
of the A. M.

Time of alt'd

     
N. 86° E  A.M.  7h. 52m. 55s  —  P.M.  3h. 50m. 42s 
7. 54. 20  —  3. 52. 3 
7. 55. 47  —  3. 53. 31 

The Altitude given 68°–47′–15″

The Indians not yet arrived we fear Something amiss with
our messenger or them.


97

Page 97

August 2nd Thursday 1804

a verry pleasant Breeze from the S. E. The Two men
Drewyer & Colter returned with the horses loaded with Elk,
those horses they found about 12 miles in a Southerly Derection
from Camp.

The Countrey thro which they passed is Similar to what we
see from Camp. one Beaver & a foot [of Beaver caught in
trap
] Cought this morning

at Sunset Mr. Fairfong (Ottoe interpreter resident with them)
and a pt. of Otteau & Missourie Nation Came to Camp, among
those Indians 6 were Chiefs, (not the principal Chiefs) Capt.
Lewis & myself met those Indians & informed them we were
glad to see them, and would speak to them tomorrow, Sent
them Some rosted meat, Pork flour & meal, in return they
sent us Water millions, every man on his Guard & ready for
any thing.

Three fat Bucks Killed this evening, the 4 qrs. of one
weighed 147lbs

August 3rd. Friday 1804

Mad up a Small preasent for those people in perpotion to
their Consiquence, also a package with a Meadle to accompany
a Speech for the Grand Chief after Brackfast we collected
those Indians under an owning of our Main Sail, in presence
of our Party paraded & Delivered a long Speech to them expressive
of our journey the wishes of our Government, Some
advice to them and Directions how they were to conduct themselves.
The principal Chief for the Nation being absent, we
Sent him the Speech flag Meadel & Some Cloathes. after
hering what they had to say Delivered a Medal of Second
Grade to one for the Ottos & one for the Missourie and present
4 medals of a third Grade to the inferior chiefs two for
each tribe.[9] (Those two parts of nations Ottos & Missouries
now residing together is about 250 men the Ottoes composeing
2/3d. and Missouris 1/3 part)


98

Page 98

The names of the Chiefs made [we acknowledged] this day
are as follows viz:[10]

                 
Indian name  English signfts
1st  We ár ruge nor  Ottoe call'd  Little Thief 
Shōn gŏ tōn gŏ  " "  Big Horse 
We—the— à  Miss: "  Hospatality 
Shon Guss à  Ottoe  White horse 
Wau pe ùh  M. 
Āh hŏ ning gă.  M. 
Baza cou jà.  Ottoe 
Āh hŏ nē gă.  M. 

Those Chiefs all Delivered a Speech, acknowledgeing their
approbation to the Speech and promissing two prosue the
advice & Derections given them that they wer happy to
find that they had fathers which might be depended on &c.

We gave them a Cannister of Powder and a Bottle of Whiskey
and delivered a few presents to the whole, after giveing a
Br. Cth. [Breech Cloth] some Paint guartering & a Meadell
to those we made Chiefs, after Capt. Lewis's Shooting the air
gun a fiew Shots (which astonished those nativs) we Set out
and proceeded on five miles on a Direct line passed a point
on the S. S. & around a large Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped
on the upper point, the Misquitors excessively troublesom
this evening. Great appearance of wind and rain to the N. W.
we prepare to rec've it, The man Liberty whome we Sent for
the Ottoes has not Come up he left the Ottoes Town one
Day before the Indians. This man has either tired his horse or,
lost himself in the Plains Some Indians are to hunt for him.

The Situation of our last Camp Councile Bluff[11] or Handsom
Prarie, (25 Days from this to Santafee) appears to be a verry


99

Page 99
proper place for a Tradeing establishment & fortification The
Soil of the Bluff well adapted for Brick, Great deel of timber
above in the two Points— many other advantages of a small
nature. and I am told Senteral to Several nations viz. one
Days march from the Ottoe Town, one Day & a half from the
great Pania village, 2 days from the Mahar Towns, two 1/4 Days
from the Loups village, & convenient to the Countrey thro:
which Bands of the Soux [rove &] hunt. perhaps no other
Situation is as well Calculated for a Tradeing establishment.

The air is pure and helthy so far as we can judge.

Course of Augt. 3rd
N. 5°. E 5 Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. a pt. on the S. S. & a Sand bar L. S.

 
[9]

The customary mode of recognizing a chief, being to place a medal round his
neck, which is considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad.—
Biddle (i, p. 38).

[10]

The diacritical marks over these names were added by other hands. Biddle
gives the first name as Weahrushhah. He also states that these envoys asked the
American officers to mediate between them and the Omaha, who were at war with
them.— Ed.

[11]

This is the origin of the name now applied to a city in Iowa opposite Omaha,
Nebr; but Coues thinks (L. and C., i, p. 66) that the place of this council was
higher up the river, on what was later the site of Fort Calhoun, in the present Washington
Co., Nebr. He also calls attention to the well-known uncertainty and
constant shifting of the Missouri's channels, rendering it difficult to identify historic
points.—Ed.

August 4th. Satturday

Set out early. (at 7 oClock last night we had a violent wind
from the N. W. Some little rain succeeded, the wind lasted
with violence for one hour after the wind it was clear sereen
and cool all night.) proceeded on passed thro between Snags
which was quit across the River the Channel confined within
200 yards one side [S. S.] a Sand pt. the other a Bend, the Banks
washing away & trees falling in constantly for I mile, above
this place is the rimains of an old Tradeing establishment L. S.
where Petr. Crusett one of our hands stayed two years & traded
with the Mahars a Short distance above is a Creek (3) the
out let of three Ponds, comunicateing with each other, those
Ponds or rether Lakes are fed by Springs & Small runs from
the hills. (2) a large Sand Island opposit this Creek, Makeing
out from the L. Point, from the Camp of last night to this
Creek, the river has latterly changed its bed incroaching on
the L. Side, on this Sand bar I saw great nos. of wild gees
passed a small creek on the L. S. about 3 miles above the
last both of those Creek's are out lets from the Small Lake
which re[c]ive their water from the Small Streems running
from the high land. great many Pumey stones on the Shore
of various Sises the wind blew hard. Reed a man who went
back to camp for his knife has not joined us. we camped at a
Beaver house on the L. S. one Buck Killed to day.


100

Page 100

Course Distance & refs. 4th. August 1804

           
S. 80°. W.  1/2  Ms. to an old tradeing House on the L. S. passed a
Sd. pt. from S. S. (1) 
N. 25°. W.  2 1/4  Ms. to a Willow pt. on the L. S. pass a large Sand
Isd. & Creek on the L. pt. (3) 
N. 70°. W.  1 3/4  Ms. to a Willow pt. on the S. S. psd. a sm: Creek L. S.
& many Snags 
N. 24°. W.  3 1/2  Ms. to a Willow pt. on the L. S. passed a Sand bar
from a S. pt
S. 84° E.  3 1/2  Ms. to a pt. on the L. S. passed a pt. on the S. S. 
15 

here the high Land is Some Distance from the river on both
Sides, and at this place the High lands are at least 12 or 15
miles a part, the range of high land on the S. S. appear to
contain Some timber. that on the L. S. appear to be intirely
clear of any thing but what is common in an open Plain, Some
Scattering timber or wood is to be Seen in the reveens, and
where the Creeks pass into the Hill. the points and wet
lands contain tall timber back of the willows which is generally
situated back of a large Sand bar from the Points.

5th. of August Sunday 1804—

Set out early great appearance of wind and rain (I have
observed that Thunder & lightning is not as common in this
Countrey as it is in the atlantic States) Snakes are not plenty,
one was killed to day large and resembling the rattle Snake,
only something lighter. I walked on Shore this evening S. S.
in Pursueing Some turkeys I [s]truck the river twelve miles
below within 370 yards, the high water passes thro' this
Peninsula, and agreeable to the customary changes of the
river, I concld [should calculate] that in two years the main
current of the river will pass through. In every bend the
banks are falling in from the current being thrown against
those bends by the Sand points which inlarges and the Soil I
believe from unquestionable appearn5 of the entire Bottom
from one hill to the other being the Mud or Ooze of the
river at Some former Period mixed with Sand and Clay easily


101

Page 101
melts and Slips into the River, and the mud mixes with the
water & the Sand is washed down and lodges on the points.
Great quantities of Grapes on the banks, I observe three different
kinds at this time ripe, one of the no. is large & has
the flaver of the Purple grape, camped on the S. S. the Musquitors
verry troublesom. The man who went back after his
knife has not yet come up, we have some reasons to believe
he has Deserted.

Course Distance & Refrd. August 5th

                       
S. 60° E  1 1/2  Ms Crossg a large Sd bar to a pt. on Ms. S. Sd bet: a
willow Isd. in S. Bend 
N. 20 W.  3/4  Ms to a pt. above a Sad. bar opsd. the upper point of the
Sd Island (Beaver 
N. 34 W.  3 1/4  Ms. to a pt. on the L. S. passed one on the Starboard
Side 
North  3/4  Ms. to a pt. on the right of a Sand Isd. makeing from
the L. pt
S. 45° W.  3 1/4  Ms. to 3 small trees in Prarie & bend to the L. S.
pased a Sand pt. S. S. 
N. 45° W.  4 1/2  Ms. to a pt. on S. S. 
North  1 1/4  Ms on the S. S. to the pt. of a Sand bar river narrow 
N. 70° E  1/4  Ms on the Sand bar S. S. 
S. 30 E  Ms. to the pt. of a Sand bar making out from the L.
pt psd a Sand. 
S. 30 E  1/2  Ml on the point 
N. 45° E  2 1/2  Mls to the lower point of an Island Close to the S. S.
behind this Island on the S. S. the Soldiers river
disimboques itself. 
20 1/2 

6th.. August, Monday 1804—

At twelve oClock last nigh[t] a violent Storm of wind from
the N. W. Some rain, one pr of colours lost in the Storm
from the bige Perogue. Set out early and proceeded on passed
a large Island on the S. S. back of this Isd. Soldiers River
Mouths, I am told by one of the men that this river is about
the size of Nadawa river 40 yards wide at the mouth. Reed
has not yet come up. neither has La Liberty the frenchman
whome we Sent to the Indian Camps a fiew miles below the
Council Bluffs.


102

Page 102

Course Distance &c. August 6th..

                     
N. 30° E.  Ml. to a Pt. on L. S. opposit the mouth of Soldiers
River S. S. 
N. 15° E.  3 1/2  Ms. to a pt. in a bend to the S. S. below a chan1 of the
river laterly filled up passed a Sand bar. from the
L. pt
West  2 1/2  Ms. to a willow pt. on the L. S. passed a Sand bar
makeing out from the from the L. pt
S. 50° W.  3 1/2  Ms. to a pt. of willows on the S. S. the high land
within 3 miles of the river on the L. S. 
N. 10 W.  1/2  Ml. on the S. pt. a Sand bar in R. 
N. 18° E.  Ms. passing over a Sand bar on the L. S. to a pt. on the
Same side of the Missourie. 
North  1 1/2  Ms to a pt. on the S. S. 
N. 18 W.  1/2  Ml. on the Sand from the Pt
East  Ml. to a pt. of willows on L. pt passed a place where
the snags were thick 
N. 16° E.  1 1/2  Ms to a pt on the S. S. and a place where the river formerly
run leaving ponds in its old Channels S. S. 
20 1/2 

7th.. August Tuesday 1804—

last night at 8 oClock a Storm from the N. W. which lasted
3/4 of an hour set out late this morning wind from the North.
at 1 oClock dispatched George Drewyer, R. Fields, Wm.
Bratten & Wm. Labieche back after the Deserter reed with
order if he did not give up Peaceibly to put him to Death &c.
to go to the Ottoes Village & enquire for La Liberty and bring
him to the Mahar Village also with a Speech on the occasion
to the Ottoes & Missouries, and derecting a few of their Chiefs
to come to the Mahars, & we would make a peace between
them & the Mahars and Souex, a String of Wompom & a
Carrot of Tobacco. proceeded on and Camped on the S. S.


103

Page 103

Course Dist8. & remarks Augt. 7th. 1804.

                     
North  Ms to a pt. of Willows on the L. S. 
N. 25°. W.  1/2  Ml on the L. pt
N. 45° W.  1 1/2  Ml. on the L. pt. of a Sd. bar. 
S. 12° E.  2 1/2  Ms. do do. 
S. 70° E.  1/2  Ml. to the Willows on the S. S. 
N. 36° W.  2 1/2  Ms. to a pt. of Willows on the L. S. a large Sand
[bar—Ed.] makein out 
N. 73° W.  Ms. to a pt. of Willows on the S. S. I went thro
to the next bend up a Beayoue. S. S. form'g
two Isds. I call Detachment Isd
N. 83° E.  2 1/2  Ms. to a pt. of Cotton Wood L. S. Psd Sand bar from
L. pt
N. 32 W.  1 1/2  Ms. to a Sand pt. from the S. pt
N. 12° E.  1/2  Ml. to the Willows on the S. S. 
17 

8th.. August Wednesday 1804

Set out this morning at the useal time at two miles passed
(1) a bend to L. S. choaked up with Snags our boat run on
two in turning to pass through, we got through with Safty
the wind from N. W. (2) passed the mouth of a River on
the S. Side called by the Soux Indians Ĕa-neăh Wāu dĕ pŏn (or
Stone river) the French Call this river. Petite Rivere de
Cuouex
(riviere des sioux). it is about 80 yards wide and as
(Mr. Durion Says whos been on the heads of it and the
Countrey abt.) is navagable for Perogues Some Distance runs
Parrelel to the Missourie some Distance, then falls down from
N. E. thro a roleing Countrey open, the head of this river
is 9 miles from the R Demoin [Desmoines] at which place the
Demoin is 80 yd. Wide, this Little Cuouex passes thro a lake
called Despree [D'Esprits] which is within 5 Leagues of the
Deemoin the Said Lake is about 20 Leagues in circumfrance
and is divided into 2 by two rocks approaching verry near each
other, this Lake is of various wedth, containing many Islands.
from this Lake to the Maha 4 days march, as [and?] is Said
to be near the Dog Plains one principal branch of the Demoin
is Called Cat River. The Demoin is Sholey.


104

Page 104

Cap Lewis took Medn. altitude of the Sun made it 56°–9′ –
00″ Lat: 41 – 42 – 34 and I took one man and went on Shore
the man Killed an Elk I fired 4 times at one & did not kill
him, My ball being Small I think was the reason, the Musquitors
so bad in the Praries that with the assistance of a bush
I could not keep them out of my eyes, the boat turned
Several times to day on Sand bars. in my absence the boat
passed a Island 2 Miles above the litle Scouix R on the
upper point of this Isld Some hundreds of Pelicans were collected,
they left 3 fish on the Sand which was very fine,
Cap Lewis Killed one, & took his dimentions, I joined the
boat and we Camped on the S. S. worthie of remark that
Snakes are not plenty in this part of the Missourie.

Course Dists. & reffs. 8th Augt.

               
N. 20° E.  Ms. to the pt. of a Sd. Isd. from the S. S. 
N. 50 E.  Ms. to a pt. of Wils. on the L. S. 
East  1/2  M l. on the right of a Sand Island 
North  1 1/2  Ml. to the mouth of Little River desioux Calld. by
Soux Ea neab-wau de pan (Stone River 
N. 70° W.  Mls. to the Lower pt. of Pelican Isd. (3) 
N. 20° W.  Ml. to a right Hand pt. of Sd Isd
N. 52 W.  Ms. to a Pt. of high woods in a bend to L. S. haveing
passd. the Pelican Isd
16 

one & a half miles South of Little Riv. de Cuouex took
half altitude with Sextn.

       
Time 
8h – 26 m – 59 s 
8 – 28 – 29  altd. 80° – 14′ – 15″ 
8 – 30 – 3 

9th.. August Thursday 1804—

The fog being thick detained us untill half pasd. 7 oClock at
which time we Set out and proceeded on under Gentle Breeze
from the S. E. I walked on Shore, Saw an Elk, crossed a
Istmust of 3/4 of a mile to the river, & returned to the boat
Camped on the L. S. above a Beaver Den. Musquitors verry
troublesom.


105

Page 105

Course Distance & refrs Augt. 9th

                 
N. 30° E.  2 1/2  Ms. to a Point of a Sand Bar on the L. S. 
N. 32. W.  Ml. to a pt. of high wood on L. S. 
N. 22. W.  2 1/2  Ms. to a pt. of high wood on the S. S. a large Sand bar
from it 
N. 15. W.  Ms. to a pt. of high Land L. S. opsd. to which the river
laterly cut thro' Saveing 6 Leagues. S. S. 
N. 46° W.  1 1/2  Ms. to a Willow pt. on the S. S. 
N. 35. W.  Ms. to the S. S. the river comeing graduelly arround
to the Rigt
N. 60°. E  2 1/2  Ms. to a Willow pt. on the L. S. 
N. 44. W.  3 1/2  to a point on S. S. 
17 1/2 

10th August Friday 1804—

Set out early this morning. Course

                         
N. 60°. W.  miles about to a Sand makeing out from the Larboard
point. 
S. 80 W.  1/2  ml. to a Drift log on the Sand this place is called
Coupee ar Jacke1 the river laterly Cut through,
Saveing Sev1. mls
S. 18° E.  2 1/2  Ms. to the S. S. 
S. 20 W.  2 1/2  Ms. to a burnt Stump in a bend to the L. S. this place
I was at yesterday. 
West  3 1/2  Ms. to 2 Cottonwood trees at the mouth of a run on
the L. S. near the high land & below a Bluff. 
N 40° W.  1 1/2  to a clift of yellow Sand stone the first high land touching
the river above the Council Bluff. 
N. 52°. W.  1 1/2  Ms. to the pt. of a Sand bar from the Starboard pt. passed
the Clift L. S. 
N. 79° E.  Ms. to a pt. of Willows on the L. S. 
N. 29. E.  1/2  M[12] on the L. Pt 
North  1 1/2  Ms. to a sand bar from the L. pt
N. 68. W.  3/4  Mls. on the sand bar from L. pt
N. 85. W.  2 1/2  Ms to the lower pt. of a willow island near the S. point. 
22 1/4 

106

Page 106

from this Island the high hill which the Late King of the
Mahars was buried on is high and bears West 4 miles. we
camped on this Island.

Musquitors verry troublesom. much Elk & Beaver Sign

 
[12]

This is Coupee a Jacques, in Biddle's text.—Ed.

11th August Satturday 1804.—

about day light this morning a hard wind from the NW.
with Some rain proceeded on arround the right of the Isd.

     
S. 52° W.  1/2  a Mile on the Sand pt
N. 25 W.  Mls.. to a pt. of low Willows from the L. S. passd. the
Isd. & a Sand bar makeing from the S. point. 
N. 72 W.  2 1/4  Ms. to a Pt. on the S. S. 

a hard wind accompanied with rain from the S. E. after the
rain was over, Capt. Lewis myself & 10 men assended the Hill
on the L. S. (under which there was some fine Springs) to the
top of a high point where the Mahars King Black Bird was
burried 4 years ago. [Died of small pox][13] a mound of earth
about 12 [feet—Biddle] Diameter at the base, & 6 feet high
is raised over him turfed, and a pole 8 feet high in the Center
on this pole we fixed a white flage bound with red Blue &
white, this hill about 300 feet above the water forming a
Bluff between that & the water of various hight from 40 to
150 feet in hight, yellow soft Sand stone from the top of this
Nole the river may be Seen Meandering for 60 or 70 miles,
we Decended & set out N. 24° W. 1/2 Ml. passing over a Sand
bar on the S. pt. along the willows to the river opposit a Small
Beyeau on the L. S. which is the Conveyance of the high
water from a bend which appears near in a northerly derection,
haveing passed a Creek in a Deep bend to the L. S. Called by


107

Page 107
the Mahars Wau can di Peeche (Great Spirrit is bad) on the
Creek & Hills near it about 400 of the Mahars Died with the
Small Pox

Took Medn. altitude & made the Latd. 42°. 1′. 3″ 8/10 N. also the
Moons Distance from the Sun

                       
Time  Distance 
H. M S  O M S 
P. M.  1 - 13. 45  73 - 6 - 45 
" - 16. 48  73 - 6 - 0 
" - 18. 39  " - 6 - 0 
" - 20. 55  " - 7 - 45 
" - 22. 25  " - 8 - 30 
" - 24 - 24  " - 9 - 30 
" - 25. 45  " - 9 - 30 
" - 27. 43  " - 10 - 45 
" - 29. 33  " - 11 - 30 
" - 31. 30  " - 12 - 00 
         
S 81° E  2 3/4  miles to the beginning of a point of willows on the L. Side 
N. 84°. E.  Miles to a high wood above a Prarie on the S. S. opposit
a Sand point 
N. 22°. E.  1 1/4  to a pt. of willows on the L. S. 
North  1 3/4  to a Cotton tree in a bend to the Starboard Side passed 
Miles  17.  a Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped[14]  

the Musquitoes verry troublesom, Great Nos. of Herrons.
this evening.

I have observed a number of places where the River has
onced run and now filled, or filling up & growing with willows
& Cottonwood.

 
[13]

Brackenridge gives (Louisiana, pp. 229, 230) an interesting account of this chief,
who gained an unlimited ascendency over the tribes of that region by his possession of
some arsenic, by which he threatened death against any one who opposed him. Irving
describes (Astoria, p. 161) the burial of this chief upon his horse. His skull was
carried away by George Catlin in 1832, and is now in the U. S. National Museum
(Smithsonian Report, 1885, ii, p. 263).—Ed.

[14]

Near the present Badger Lake, Monona Co., Ia,—Coues (L. and C., i, p. 73).

12th.. August, Sunday 1804—

Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the South the
river wider than useal and Shallow

(1) at 12 oClock we halted to take a meridean altd. of the Sun
& Sent a man back or I may Say across to the Bend of the


108

Page 108
river where Capt. Lewis took the Mdn. altitude yesterday, to
Step off the distance, he made it 974 yards across, the Distance
arround the bend is 1 83/4 miles. about 4 miles above
this bend on the L. S. is the Commencement of a Bluff which
is about 4 miles extinding on the river, of yellow and brown
Clay in Some parts in it near the water a Soft Sand Stone is
imbeded on the top (which is from 20 to 150 feet above the
water, & rises back) is Covered with timber, a fiew red Ceeder
is on this Bluff, the wind coms round to the S. E. a Prarie
Wolf
come near the bank and Barked at us this evening, we
made an attempt but could not git him, the animale Barkes
like a large ferce Dog. Beever is verry Plenty on this part of
the river. I prepare Some presents for to give the Indians of
the Mahars Nation. Wiser apt. Cook & Supentdt.. of the Provisions
of Sergt. Floyds Squad. We Camped on a Sand Island
in a bend to the S. S. Musquitors verry troublesom untill the
wind rose, at one or 2 oClock

Course Distance &c. August 12th..

                 
N. 45° W.  1 1/2  Ms. to a pt. of willows on the L. S. 
S. 42 W.  1/2  Ml. to a Sand on the L. point 
S. 22. E.  2 1/4  to a pt. makeing out from the Larbd. S. passed the
Timber L. S. 
N. 78. W.  Ms. to a pt. of willows on the L. S. 
S. 68. W.  2 1/2  Ms. to a Grove of Cotton Trees in the bend L. S. (1) 
N. 49. W.  4 1/2  Ms. to a pt. on the S. Side opsd. a Bluff passed a pt. at
1 Ml. on S. S. some at 2 1/2 on L. S. 
N. 12°. W.  Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a Bluff 
N. 46. E.  2 3/4  Ms. to a Sand Island in the Bend to S. S. (Camped) 
20 1/4 

August 13th.. Monday 1804—

Set out this morning at Light the useal time and proceeded
on under a gentle Breeze from the S. E.


109

Page 109
                 
N. 66°. W.  2 3/4  Ms. to a pt. of Low willows on the S. S. a bar makeing
out. passed [to] the Sd
N. 11°. W.  5: 1/4  to a pt. of Cotton Wood. in a Bend to the S. S. passed
over the pt. of a Sand bar from L. S. 
S. 44° W.  2 1/2  to a pt. on the S. S. opposit to the place Mr. Ja: Mc.Key
had a tradeing house in 95. & 96. & named it Fort
Charles[15]  
West  3/4  of a mile to the Pt. of willow Isd. on the S. point 
N. 50°. W.  Ml. to a point of high wood below the mouth of a
Beayou comunicating with a Pond L. S. 
N. 20° E.  2 1/4  Mls. to a pt. of Willows on the L. S. passed a Creek
at 1 1/2 Mls. on which the Mahar village is Situated[16]
a Sand bar on S. S. & one on L. S. haveing passed
the Willow Isd
North  1/4   Ml. on the Sand bar L. S. 
N. 69 W.  2 1/2  Ms. to the upper Point of Some Cottonwood trees in a
Bend to the L. S. opposit the lower pt. of a large
Island Situated on the S. S. 
17 1/4 

we formed a Camp on a Sand bar on the L. S. & Detached
Sergt. Ordeway Peter Crusatt, George Shannon. Werner &
Carrn. [Carson?—Ed.] to the Mahar Village with a flag &
Some Tobacco to envite the Nation to See & talk with us on
tomorrow, we took some Luner observation this evening.
the air Pleasant.

 
[15]

See ante, p. 50.—Ed.

[16]

A little south of Dakota City, north of the Omaha Indian Reservation. The
party encamped nearly opposite the present Omadi, Neb. —Coues (L. and C., i,
p. 74).

14th August Tuesday 1804 —

a fine morning wind from the S. E. The men Sent to the
Mahar Town last evining has not returned we Conclude to
send a Spye to Know the Cause of their delay, at about 12
oClock the Party returned and informd. us that they Could not
find the Indians, nor any fresh Sign, those people have not
returned from their Buffalow hunt. Those people haveing
no houses no Corn or anything more than the graves of their
ansesters to attach them to the old Village, Continue in purseute


110

Page 110
of the Buffalow longer than others who has greater
attachments to their native village. The ravages of the Small
Pox (which Swept off [about 4 years ago] 400 men & Womin
& children in perpopotion) has reduced this nation not exceeding
300 men and left them to the insults of their weaker
neighbours, which before was glad to be on friendly turms
with them. I am told when this fatal malady was among
them they Carried their franzey to verry extroadinary length,
not only of burning their Village, but they put their wives &
children to Death with a view of their all going together to
some better Countrey. they burry their Dead on the top of
high hills and rais Mounds on the top of them. The cause
or way those people took the Small Pox is uncertain, the most
Probable, from Some other nation by means of a warparty.

August 15th, Wednesday, 1804.[17]
Camp three Miles N. E. of the Mahar Village

I went with ten men to a Creek Damed by the Beavers
about half way to the Village, with Some small Willows &
Bark we made a Drag and hauled up the Creek, and Cought
318 fish of different kind i.e. Pike, Bass, Salmon, perch, red
horse, small cat, and a kind of perch Called Silver fish, on the
Ohio. I cought a Srimp prosisely of Shape Size & flavour
of those about N. Orleans & the lower part of the Mississippi
in this Creek which is only the pass or Streight from [one—
Ed.] Beaver Pond to another, is Crouded with large Musstles
verry fat, Ducks, Plover of different kinds are on those
Ponds as well as on the river. in my absence Capt. Lewis
Sent Mr. Durione the Souix interpeter & three men to examine
a fire which threw up an emence Smoke from the Praries
on the NE. Side of the River and at no great distance from
Camp. the Object of this party was to find Some Bands of
Seouex which the intptr. thought was near the Smoke and get
them to come in. in the evening this Party returned and
informed, that the fire arose from Some trees which had been


111

Page 111
left burning by a small party of Seoux, who had passed [by
that place
] Several Days. the wind Setting from that point,
blew the Smoke from that pt. over our Camp. our party all
in health and Sperrits. The men Sent to the Ottoes & in
pursute of the Deserter Reed has not yet returned or joined
our party.

 
[17]

With this entry Codex B commences, continuing until Oct. 3, 1804.—Ed.

16th August Thursday 1804.
Fishing Camp 3 Ms. N. E. of the Mahars.

a verry cool morning the wind as useal from the NW.
Cap. Lewis took 12 men and went to the Pond & Creek
between Camp and the old village and Cought upwards of 800
fine fish, 79 Pike, 8 salmon resembling Trout [8 fish resemb'g
Salmon Trout
] 1 Rock, 1 flat Back, 127 Buffalow & red horse
4 Bass & 490 Cats, with many Small Silver fish. (& Srimp) I
had a Mast made and fixed to the Boat to day, the Party
Sent to the ottoes not yet joined us. the wind shifted around
to the S. E. everry evening a Breeze rises which blows off
the Musquitors & cools the atmispeere.

17th August Friday 1804. —

a fine morning the wind from the S. E. I collected a
grass much resembling Wheet in its grouth the grain like Rye,
also Some resembling Rye & Barly. a kind of Timothey, the
Seed of which branches from the main Stalk & is more like a
flax Seed than that of Timothey.

at 6 oClock this evening Labieche one of the Party sent to
the Ottoes joined, and informed that the Party was behind
with one of the Deserters M. B. Reed and the 3 principal
Chiefs of the Nations. La Liberty they cought but he
decived them and got away. the object of those Chiefs comeing
forward is to make a peace with the Mahars thro: us. as
the Mahars are not at home this great Object cannot be accomplished
at this time. Set the Praries on fire to bring the
Mahars & Soues if any were near, this being the useal Signal.

a cool evening two Beaver cought to day.


112

Page 112

18th August, Sat'day 1804.—

a fine morning. Wind from the S. E. in the after part of
the Day the Party with the Indians arrivd. we meet them
under a Shade near the Boat and after a Short talk we gave
them Provisions to eat & proceeded to the trial of Reed, he
confessed that he "Deserted & stold a public Rifle Shot-pouch
Powder & Ball" and requested we would be as favourable
with him as we Could consistantly with our Oathes—which we
were and only Sentenced him to run the Gantlet four times
through the Party & that each man with 9 Swichies Should
punish him and for him not to be considered in future as one
of the Party. The three principal Chiefs petitioned for Pardin
for this man after we explained the injurey such men could
doe them by false representations, & explan'g the Customs of
our Countrey they were all Satisfied with the propriety of the
Sentence & was Witness to the punishment. after which we
had Some talk with the Chiefs about the orrigan of the war
between them & the Mahars &c &c. it Commenced in this
way in two of the Misouries Tribes resideing with the Ottoes
went to the Mahars to steel horses, the Killed them both
which was a cause of revenge on the part of the Missouris &
Ottoes, they also brought war on themselves Nearly in the
same way with the Pania Loups, and they are greatly in fear
of a just revenge from the Panies for takeing their Corn from
the Pania Towns in their absence hunting this Summer.
Cap L. Birth day the evening was closed with an extra gill
of whiskey and a Dance untill 11 oClock.

19th August Sunday 1804—

a fine morning wind from the S. E. prepared a Small
Present for the Chiefs and Warriors present. the main chief
Brackfast with us & beged for a Sun glass, those People
are all naked, Covered only with Breech Clouts Blankets or
Buffalow Roabes, the flesh Side Painted of Different colours
and figures. At 10 oClock we assembled the Chiefs and
warriors 9 in number under an owning, and Cap. Lewis [we]
explaind the Speech Sent to the Nation from the Council
Bluffs by Mr. Faufon. The 3 Chiefs and all the men or


113

Page 113
warriors made short Speeches approving the advice & Council
their great father had Sent them, and concluded by giving
themselves some Credit for their acts.

We then brought out the presents and exchanged the Big
horses
Meadel and gave him one equal to the one Sent to the
Little Thief & gave all Some Small articles & 8 Carrots of
Tobacco, we gave one Small Meadel to one of the Chiefs
and a Sertificate to the others of their good intentions.

                 
Names
The Little Thief  Grd. Chiefs I have
mentioned before. 
The Big Horse 
Crows Head (or)  Kar Ka paha - Missory 
Black Cat (or)  Ne na Sa wa - do 
Iron Eyes (or)  Sar na no no - Ottoe 
Big Ax[18] (or)  Nee Swar Unja - do 
Big Blue Eyes–  Star gea Hun ja do 
Brave Man (or)  War sar Sha Co 

one of those Indians after receiving his Certificate delivd.
it again to me the Big blue eyes the Chief petitioned for
the Ctft. again,[19] we would not give the Certfr., but rebuked
them verry roughly for haveing in object goods and not
peace with their neighbours. this language they did not like


114

Page 114
at first, but at length all petitioned for us to give back the
Certificate to the Big blue eyes he came forward and made a
plausible excuse, I then gave the Certificate [to] the Great
Chief to bestow it to the most Worthy, they gave it to him,
we then gave them a Dram and broke up the Council, the
Chiefs requested we would not leave them this evening we
determined to Set out early in the morning we Showed
them many Curiosities and the air gun which they were
much astonished at. those people beged much for Whiskey.
Serjeant Floyd is taken verry bad all at once with a Biliose
Chorlick we attempt to relieve him without success as yet,
he gets worst and we are much allarmed at his Situation, all
[give] attention to him.

 
[18]

In Biddle, "Big Ox."—Ed.

[19]

The captains carried with them a large number of "Indian commissions," or
certificates, on printed blanks measuring 7 1/2 X 12 1/4 inches, which they would fill out
with the chiefs' names. These read as follows:

THOMAS JEFFERSON, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

From the powers vested in us and    by the above authority: To all who shall see these
presents, Greeting:

KNOW YE, that from the special confidence reposed by us in the sincere and unalterable attachment
of    chief of the    Nation to the United States, as also from the
abundant proofs given by him of his amicable disposition to cultivate peace, harmony, and good
neighbourhood with the said States, and the citizens of the same; we do by the authority vested in
us, require and charge, all citizens of the United States, all Indian Nations, in treaty with the same,
and all other persons whomsoever, to   acknowledge, and treat the said  
and his   in the most friendly manner, declaring him to be the friend and ally of the said
States: the government of which will at all times be extended to their protection, so long as they do
acknowledge the authority of the same.

Having signed with our hands and affixed our seals

this   day of   180

20th August Monday 1804. —

Sergeant Floyd much weaker and no better. Made Mr.
Faufonn the interpter a fiew presents, and the Indians a
Canister of Whiskey We Set out under a gentle breeze from
the S. E. and proceeded on verry well. Serjeant Floyd as
bad as he can be no pulse & nothing will Stay a moment on
his Stomach or bowels. Passed two Islands on the S. S. and
at the first Bluff on the S. S. Serj. Floyd Died with a great
deal of Composure, before his death he Said to me, "I am
going away" I want you to write me a letter." We buried
him on the top of the bluff 1/2 Mile below a Small river to
which we Gave his name, he was buried with the Honors of
War much lamented, a Seeder post with the (1) Name Sergt. C.
Floyd died here 20th. of august 1804 was fixed at the head
of his grave[20] . This Man at all times gave us proofs of his
firmness and Determined resolution to doe Service to his
Countrey and honor to himself after paying all the honor to


115

Page 115
our Decesed brother we camped in the Mouth of floyds River
about 30 yards wide, a butifull evening.

Course Dists. & reffr. 20th Augt.

             
N. 56°. W.  Ms. to pt. of a Willow Isd. S. S. 
North  3/4  m1. on the left of the Island 
N. 72. E.  2 1/4  M1. to the upr. pt. of the Isd
N. 18. E.  2 1/2  Ms. to the lower pt. of an Isd. on the S. S. passed Sand
bars. 
North  3 1/2  Ms. to Sj. Floyds Bluff on S. S. the 1st above Aiaways
Village a fiew miles above Platt R. 
To the Mo. of Floyds River on S. S. and camped. 
13 
 
[20]

The journal kept by Sergeant Floyd (which will be published in full in the
present work) ends abruptly on August 18. He was buried at a spot which is now
in the southern part of Sioux City, Ia. The inroads of the Missouri River having
partly washed away Floyd's grave, his remains were reburied (May 28, 1857) in a
safer place, some 200 yards back of the original grave; and on Aug. 20, 1895, the
spot was marked with a slab. A monumental shaft to his memory was erected
May 30, 1901. See Reports of Floyd Memorial Association (Sioux City, 1897,
1901).—Ed.

21st August Tuesday 1804.—

We Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on
under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. passed Willow Creek
Small on the S. S. below a Bluff of about 170 feet high and
one 1/2 Mls. above Floyds River at 1 1/2 Miles higher & above
the Bluff passed the Soues River S. S. this River is about the
Size of Grand river and as Mr. Durrien our Soues intptr. says
"is navagable to the falls 70 or 80 Leagues and above these
falls Still further, those falls are 20 feet or there abouts and
has two princepal pitches, and heads with the St. peters [now
Minnesota River—Ed.] passing the head of the Demoin, on
the right below the falls a Creek coms in which passes thro
Clifts of red rock which the Indians make pipes of,[21] and when
the different "nations meet at those quaries all is piece." [a
sort of asylum for all nations, no fightg there
] passed a place
in a Prarie on the L. S. where the Mahars had a Village
formerly. the Countrey above the Platt R. has a great Similarity.
Campd. on the L. Side, Clouds appear to rise in the
West & threten wind. I found a verry excellent froot
resembling the read Current, the Srub on which it grows resembles
Privey & about the Common hight of a wild plumb.


116

Page 116

Course Distance & refs. 21st Augt.

                           
S. 82° E.  mls. to the Upper part of a Bluff below the Soues river
on S. S. passed Willow Creek at 1 1/2 Ms. S. S. 
South  1 1/4  Ms. to Lower pt. of a Willow Island in the Midle of
the River one on S. S. opsd.. 
S. 48. W.  1 3/4  mls. to the head of the Isld. passed Several Sand bars
dividing the Current, Wind hard 
West  Ms. to a high wood on the L. S. pased a large Sand
bar from the S. S. River Wide
N. 36. W.  Mls. to a Beyau in a bend to the L. S. above where
the Mahars once had a Village a Sand bar in the
Middle & S. S. 
N. 18. E.  Mls. to a pt. of Willows on the L. S. wind hard
from S. E. 
N. 22° W.  3/4  Mls. on the L. S. opsd. to which the Soues River is
within 2 miles on the S. S. 
S. 50. W.  1/4  Ml. on the L. S. 
S. 28. W.  Mls. to a Willow pt on the S. S. 
S. 78 W.  1 1/2  mls. on the Sand bar on S. S. 
N. 12. W.  Mls. to a Willow pt. on the L. S. passed a Sand bar. 
S. 60. W.  1 3/4  ms. on the Sand bar on the L. Side. 
South  2 1/2  miles to Some low Willows on the S. S. 
24 3/4 

The two men Sent with the horses has not joined us as yet.

 
[21]

The celebrated "Red Pipestone Quarry," in Pipestone County, S. W. Minnesota;
it was first described by George Catlin, who visited it in 1836; the stone (a
red quartzite) was named in honor of him, "catlinite." See his N. Amer. Inds.,
ii, pp. 160, 164–177, 201–206; and Minn. Geol. Survey Rep., 1877, pp. 97–109.
The stone is even yet worked, although in crude fashion, by the Sioux Indians, —Ed.

22nd August Friday 1804.—

Set out early wind from the South at three miles we
landed at a Bluff where the two men Sent with the horses
were waiting with two Deer, by examonation this (I) Bluff
Contained Alum, Copperas, Cobalt, Pyrites; a Alum Rock
Soft & Sand Stone. Capt. Lewis in proveing the quality of
those minerals was Near poisoning himself by the fumes &
tast of the Cobalt which had the appearance of Soft Isonglass.
Copperas & alum is verry pisen,[22] Above this Bluff a Small


117

Page 117
Creek coms in from the L. S. passing under the Clift for Several
Miles, this Creek I Call Roloje a name I learned last
night is M[ ]s (2) Seven Miles above is a Clift of Allom
Stone of a Dark Brown Colr. Containing also incrusted in the
crevices & shelves of the rock great qts. of Cobalt, Semented
Shels & a red earth. from this the (3) river bends to the East
and is within 3 or 4 miles of the River Soues at the place where
that river Coms from the high land into the Low Prairie &
passes under the foot of those Hills to its Mouth.

Capt. Lewis took a Dost of Salts to work off the effects of
the arsenic, we camped on the S. S.[23] Sailed the greater part
of this day with a hard wind from the S. E. Great deel of
Elk Sign, and great appearance of wind from the N. W.

Course Distance & refr. 22nd Augt.

             
S. 47° W.  1 1/4  Mls. on the S. point 
West  1 1/4  Mls. to the lower point of a Bluff on the L. S. (1) 
N. 18. W.  2 1/2  Mls. to a pt. of high wood on the L. S. passd a
Creek (2) 
N. 56. W.  5 1/2  Mls. to a Clift on the L. S. opsd a pt. pass'd a Sand
bar on both sides of the river (3) 
N. 54. E.  Mls. to a pt. of Sand on the L. S. opsd the R. Soues
is near the Missourie (4) 
N. 48. W.  6 1/2  Mls. to a Tree in the Prarie on the S. S. psd. a pt. of
Sand on the S. S. 2 Sand bars in the middle of
the river. 
19 

ordered a Vote for a Serjeant to chuse one of three which
may be the highest number. the highest numbers are P. Gass
had 19 votes, Bratten[24] & Gibson.

 
[22]

Biddle here says (i, p. 50): "The appearance of these mineral substances
enabled us to account for disorders of the stomach with which the party had been
affected since they left the river Sioux;" the men had used the water of the Missouri,
on which floated a scum proceeding from these rocks. By dipping from below, and
avoiding this scum, they obtained pure water, and their maladies soon ceased.—Ed.

[23]

Near Elk Point, Union Co., S. Dakota.—Ed.

[24]

For such information as can be obtained about William Bratton, see Wheeler,
On the Trail of Lewis and Clark (N. Y., 1904), pp. 112–116. Bratton died in
1841; a monument over his grave at Waynetown, Ind., records his share in the
Lewis and Clark expedition.

For biography of Sergeant Gass, see J. G. Jacob's Life and Times of Patrick Gass
(Wellsburg, Va., 1859); Coues's compilation therefrom, in his Lewis and Clark, i,
pp. xcix–cvi; and a sketch in History of the Pan-Handle, West Va. (Wheeling, 1879),
pp. 346–349.—Ed.


118

Page 118

23rd August Thursday 1804—

Set out this morning verry early the two men with the
horses did not come up last night I walked on Shore & Killed
a fat Buck. J. Fields Sent out to hunt Came to the Boat
and informed that he had Killed a Buffalow in the plain a head.
Cap. Lewis took 12 Men and had the buffalow brought to the
boat in the next bend to the S. S. 2 Elk Swam the river, and
was fired at from the boat R. Fields came up with the Horses
and brought two Deer one Deer killed from the Boat. Several
Prarie Wolves Seen to day Saw Elk Standing on the Sand
bar. The Wind blew hard [west] and raised the Sands off
the bar in Such Clouds that we Could Scercely [see] this Sand
being fine and verry light Stuck to everry thing it touched,
and in the Plain for a half a mile the distance I was out, every
Spire of Grass was covered with the Sand or Durt.

We camped on the L. S. above a Sand Island, one Beaver
Cought.

Course Distance & ref. Augt. 23rd.

     
West  Mls. to a Small run between two Bluffs of Yellow &
Blue Earth. [L. S.] 
North  3 1/4  Mls. to Some timber in a bend to the S. S. passd. a
Willow Island, a Sand Isd opsd psd a pt. of
High Land S. S. at 1/4 of Ml
S. 48°. W.  Mls. to a pt. of Willows on the S. S. having passd the
Sand bar on the L. point. 

24th August Friday 1804.—

Some rain last night, a Continuation this morning, we Set
out at the useal time and proceeded on the Course of last night,
to the (I) Commencement of a blue Clay Bluff of 180 or 190
feet high on the L. S. Those Bluffs appear to have been
laterly on fire, and at this time is too hot for a man to bear
his hand in the earth at any Debth[25] , Great appearance of


119

Page 119
Coal, an emence quantity of Cobalt or a Cristolised Substance
which answers its description is on the face of the Bluff. Great
quantities of a kind of berry resembling a current except double
the Size and Grows on a bush like a Privey, and the Size of a
Damsen deliciously flavoured and makes delitefull Tarts, this
froot is now ripe [26] I took my Servent and a french boy and
Walked on Shore, Killed Two Buck Elks and a fawn, and
intersepted the Boat, and had all the Meat butchered and in
by Sun Set at which time it began to rain and rained hard,
Cap. Lewis & My self walk out & got verry wet, a Cloudy
rainey night In my absence the Boat Passed a Small (2) River
Called by the Indians White Stone River this river is about
30 yards wide and runs thro: a Plain or Prarie in its whole
Course In a northerley derection from the Mouth of this
Creek in an emence Plain a high Hill is Situated, and appears
of a Conic form, and by the different nations of Indians in this
quarter is Suppose to be the residence of Deavels. that they
are in human form with remarkable large heads, and about
18 Inches high, that they are very watchfull and are arm'd
with Sharp arrows with which they Can Kill at a great distance;
they are Said to kill all persons who are So hardy as to attempt
to approach the hill; they State that tradition informs them
that many Indians have Suffered by those little people, and
among others three Mahar Men fell a sacrefise to their murceless
fury not many Years Sence. So Much do the Maha,
Soues, Ottoes and other neighbouring nations believe this fable,
that no Consideration is Suffecient to induce them to approach
the hill.


120

Page 120

Course Distance & ref. 24 Augt.

               
S. 48°. W.  2 1/4  Mls. to the Commencement of a Blue Clay Bluff of
180 or 190 feet high on the L. S. 
West  1 3/4  Mls. under the Bluff passd two Small runs from the
Bluff, those Bluffs have been latterly on fire & is
yet verry hot. (1) 
North  M ls. to a point on L. S. 
N. 10° E.  1/4  Mls. to an object in the bend on S. S. an extensive
Sand bar on the L. S. 
N. 45°. W.  1 1/2  Mls. to the lower point of a small Willow Island. 
West  1 1/4  Ml. to the upper point of a Sand bar Connected with
the Island [passed the Creek. (2)] 
S. 40. W.  2 1/2  Mls. to a Willow pt. on the S. S. 
11 1/2 
 
[25]

The heated bluffs here mentioned are ascribed by Coues (L. and C. i, p. 84)
to volcanic action; they were called by the French voyageurs côtes brulées, or "burnt
bluffs." Brackenridge, who was at this place in 1811, ascribes this phenomenon
to the burning of coal (Louisiana, pp. 232, 233).— Ed.

At Ionia, Dixon County, is found the Nebraska "volcano" or "burning hill."
Though declining in activity, this hill was once an object of considerable interest,
especially after freshets in the Missouri River. Though not visited personally, the
smoking or steaming seems to be due to the decomposition of pyrite in the damp
shales. It seems that sufficient chemical heat is produced to make the hill-top steam
and even to fuse some of the sand and clay. It bears no relation whatever to a
volcano.—Erwin H. Barbour, geologist of University of Nebraska.

[26]

Buffalo-berry, or beef-suet tree (Fr. graisse de bœuf), Shepherdia argentea.—Ed.