University of Virginia Library

The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK

Chapter I

FROM RIVER DUBOIS TO THE PLATTE

I. Clark's Journal and Orders, January 30–July 22, 1804
Entries and Orders by Lewis, February 20, March 3, May 15, 20, 26, and July 8, 12

[PRELIMINARY MEMORANDA]

[Clark]

CAPTS. LEWIS & CLARK wintered at the enterance
of a Small river opposit the Mouth of Missouri
Called Wood River,[1] where they formed their party,
Composed of robust helthy hardy young men, recomended
[Sentence unfinished.—Ed.].[2]

[The following memoranda of events in the history of the
expedition prior to its departure from River Dubois, May 14,
1804, are selected from a record, mainly of natural phenomena,
kept by Clark, which is written near the end of Codex C;

this begins at p. 231, and continues (the pages being in reverse
order) to p. 216, covering the time from Jan. 1, 1804 to
April 7, 1805. The expedition had gone into camp in December.
—Ed.]

January 30th.

Capt. Lewis arrived from Kahokia

Feby. 29

The weather had been clear since Capt Lewis lef[t] Camp
untill this[3]

March 19th

Visited St. Charles

20th

Return from St Charles after haveing arrested the progress
of a Kickapoo war party

21st

I arrived at River Dubois from St Charles

28th.

Capt. Lewis returned to Camp

29th.

Tried Several men for missconduct

April 2nd

Capt Lewis went to St. Louis. Mr. Hay arrive[d]

[The following memorandum, by both Lewis and Clark, occupies
a detached sheet in the Clark-Voorhis collection.—Ed.

[Lewis:]

Information of Mr. John Hay, commencing at the discharge
of the Ottertail Lake, which forms the source of the Red
River, to his winter station on the Assinneboin River.

                                                               

From Ottertail Lake	Leagues
To the Shugar rappid	18.
Buffaloe River—N. Side	10.
Commencement of shaved prarie	9.
Expiration of D°. d°.	18.
{Tho' on a streight line not thought more than 6. leagues}
Stinking bird river, South side	60.
(heads with river St. Peters)
Shayen or Shaha South side	14.
River au Bouf North side	4.
Tree River South side	10.
Wild oates river N. Side	2.
Goose river South side	7.
Pond River S. side	1/3
Sand Hill river—not certain but b[e]lieved to be on the South side	5.
To the grand fork or Red Lake River N. Side	20.
Turtle river S. Side	3.
Dirty water river S. side	3.
Salt water river N. side at the head of this river is a salt spring	18.
Pierced wood river N. S.	12.
Pembenar river N. S.	3.
To a wintering establishment of the N. W. Company on the S. side	8.
Paemicon river S. side	3.
Mr. Reaum's Fort S. side 1792	1/3
Pond river S. side	14.
Kuckould burr river S. side	3 1/2
Rat river N side	7.
Assinniboin N side	161/2
	269
Dead river S. side	8.
Lake Winnepique	10.
From the mouth of the Assinaboin up the same to To the mouth of Mouse River S side	139 1/2

Notes—1) the general course of the red River from Leaf river to
the mouth of the assinnaboin is due West

(2d.) the River Pembenar heads in three large lakes bearing as it
proceds upwards towards the Assinnaboin—the first lake three leagues

in length and 1 in width, the turtle mountain bearing S W. distnt 7
leagues, the second smaller lying N N W. not very distant from the
former the third and last large and extending within a few miles of the
mouth of Mouse river branch of the Assinnaboin

(3) Salt is made in sundry places on the Red river (to it) [to wit]
just below the mouth of river Pembenar on the S. side head of salt
river, also on the South side of the red river a little way below the dirty
water river

[Clark:]

The Course from the Fort Mandan to the Fort Chaboillez's
on the Assinna Boin is North 150 Miles

                 

	mls
Mirey creek	12 & Big C. of wood 16 to the E to a lake
Mous river 30 yd wide	50 to the river La sou[rie] 4 L
and	20 Legues to a Small creek of the Mous R
&	3 d° to the next
&	1 League cross the Lasou or M.[ouse]
&	20 L   cross the Ditto   to the R Pass Turtle Hites at 6 L.
	27 to Assinnibon
	51

[ILLUSTRATION]

[We now return to Clark's memorandum of events, in
Codex C.—Ed.]

3rd.

Mr. Garrous[4] Boat loaded with provisions pass up for Prarie
du chien, to trade

18th.

at St. Louis

The Country about the Mouth of Missouri is pleasent rich
and partially Settled On the East Side of the Mississippi a
leavel rich bottom extends back about 3 miles, and rises by
several elevations to the high Country, which is thinly timbered
with Oakes & On the lower Side of the Missouri, at about
2 miles back the Country rises graduilly, to a high plesent
thinly timberd Country, the lands are generally fine on the
River bottoms and well calculating for farming on the upper
Country

in the point the Bottom is extensive and emensly rich for
15 or 20 miles up each river, and about 2/3 of which is open
leavel plains in which the inhabtents of St. Charles & portage
de Scioux had ther crops of corn & wheat. on the upland is
a fine farming country partially timbered for Some distance
back.

[DISCIPLINE AND ORGANIZATION]

[The following "Detachment Orders" are in the Voorhis
collection of Lewis and Clark manuscripts—see note 2, p. 3,
ante. The documents show that the "robust helthy hardy
young men," many of them fresh from the Kentucky woods,
found it not easy to accustom themselves to the rigid discipline
of a military corps; and illustrate the difficulties which beset
the two captains during the first winter camp. The orders relating
to the personnel of the expedition, with the organization
of the messes, etc., are especially interesting and suggestive.—Ed.][5] .

[Lewis:]

Detatchment Orders
Camp River Dubois, Febr. 20th. 1804.

The Commanding officer directs that During the absence
of himself and Capt. Clark from Camp, that the party shall
consider themselves under the immediate command of Sergt.
Ordway, who will be held accountable for the good poliece
and order of the camp during that period, and will also see
the subsequent parts of this order carried into effect.

The sawyers will continue their work untill they have cut
the necessary quantity of plank, the quantity wanting will be
determined by Pryor; during the days they labour they shall
recieve each an extra gill of whiskey pr. day and be exempt
from guard duty; when the work is accomplished, they will
join the party and do duty in common with the other men.

The Blacksmiths will also continue their work untill they
have completed the articles contained in the memorandom
with which I have furnished them, and during the time they
are at work will recieve each an extra gill of whiskey pr. day
and be exempt from guard duty; when the work is completed
they will return to camp and do duty in common with the
detatc[h]ment.

The four men who are engaged in making sugar will continue
in that employment untill further orders, and will recieve
each a half a gill of extra whiskey pr. day and be exempt from
guard duty.

The practicing party will in futer discharge only one round
each pr. day, which will be done under the direction of Sergt.
Ordway, all at the same target and at the distance of fifty yards
off hand. The prize of a gill of extra whiskey wil1 be recieved
by the person who makes the best shot at each time of
Practice.

Floyd will take charge of our quarte[r]s and store and be
exempt from guard duty untill our return, the commanding

Officer hopes that this proof of his confidence will be justifyed
by the rigid performance of the orders given him on that
subject.

No man shal absent himself from camp without the knowlege
and permission of Sergt. Ordway, other than those who
have obtained permission from me to be absent on hunting
excurtions, and those will not extend their absence to a term
by which they may avoid a tour of guard duty, on their return
they will report themselves to Sergt. Ordway and receive his
instructions.

No whiskey shall in future be delivered from the Contractor's
store except for the legal ration, and as appropriated by
this order, unless otherwise directed by Capt. Clark or myself.

[Lewis:]

Detatchment Orders
March 3rd. 1804.

The Commanding officer feels himself mortifyed and disappointed
at the disorderly conduct of Reubin Fields, in refusing
to mount guard when in the due roteen of duty he was regularly
warned; nor is he less surprised at the want of discretion
in those who urged his oposition to the faithfull discharge of
his duty, particularly Shields, whose sense of propryety he had
every reason to believe would have induced him reather to have
promoted good order, than to have excited disorder and faction
among the party, particularly in the absence of Capt. Clark and
himself: The Commanding officer is also sorry to find any man,
who has been engaged by himself and Capt. Clark for the expedition
on which they have entered, so destitute of understanding,
as not to be able to draw the distinction between being
placed under the command of another officer, whose will in
such case would be their law, and that of obeying the orders of

Capt. Clark and himself communicated to them through Sergt.
Ordway, who, as one of the party, has during their necessary
absence been charged with the execution of their orders; acting
from those orders expressly, and not from his own caprice, and
who, is in all respects accountable to us for the faithfull observance
of the same.

A moments reflection must convince every man of our
party, that were we to neglect the more important and necessarry
arrangements in relation to the voyage we are now entering
on, for the purpose merely of remain[in]g at camp in order to
communicate our orders in person to the individuals of the
party on mear points of poliece, they would have too much
reason to complain; nay, even to fear the ultimate success of
the enterprise in which we are all embarked. The abuse of
some of the party with respect [to the] prevelege heretofore
granted them of going into the country, is not less displeasing;
to such as have made hunting or other business a pretext to
cover their design of visiting a neighbouring whiskey shop,
he cannot for the present extend this previlege; and dose
therefore most positively direct, that Colter, Bolye, Wiser, and
Robinson do not recieve permission to leave camp under any
pretext whatever for ten days, after this order is read on the
parade, unless otherwise directed hereafter by Capt. Clark or
himself. The commanding officers highly approve of the
conduct of Sergt. Ordway.

The Carpenters Blacksmiths, and in short the whole party
(except Floid who has been specially directed to perform other
duties) are to obey implicitly the orders of Sergt. Ordway, who
has recieved our instructions on these subjects, and is held
accountable to us for their due execution.

[Orderly Book; Clark:]

Detatchment Order
Camp River Dubois, April 1st. 1804.

The Commanding officers did yesterday proceed to take the
necessary inlistments, and select the Detachment destined
for the Expedition through the interior af the Continent of
North America; and have accordingly seelected the persons
herein after Mentioned, as those which are to Constitute their
Perminent Detachment. (Viz).

                         

William	Bratten	John	Ordway
John	Colter	Nathaniel	Pryor
John	Collins	John	Potts
Reubin	Fields	Moses B	Reed
Joseph	Fields	George	Shannon
Charles	Floyd	John	Shields
Patrie	Gass	John B.	Thompson
George	Gibson	Richard	Winser
Silas	Goodrich	William	Werner
Thomas P.	Howard	Peter	Wiser
Hugh	Hall	Joseph	Whitehouse
Hugh	Mc. Neel	Alexander	Willard
John	Newmon

The commanding officers do also retain in their service
untill further Orders: The following Persons, Richard Warvington,
Rabert Frasure, John Robertson, & John Boyley
(Moses B. Read)[6] who whilst they remain with the Detachment

shall be incorperated with the second, and third squads of the
same, and are to be treated in all respects as those men who
form the Permonant detachment except with reguard to an
advance of Pay, and the distrebutions of Arms and Accoutrements
intended for the expedition.

The following persons (viz Charles Floyd, John Ordway, and
Nathaniel Pryor are this day appointed Sergeants, with equal
Powers (unless when otherwise specially ordered). The authority,
Pay, and emouliments, attached to the Said rank of
Sergeants in the Military Service of the United States, and to
hold the Said appointments, and be respected Accordingly,
dureing their good behaviour or the Will and pleasure of the
sd. Commanding officers.[7]

To insure order among the party, as well as to promote
a regular Police in Camp, The Commanding Officers have
thought proper to devide the detachment into three Squads
and to place a Sergeant in Command of each, who are held
imediately responsible to the Commanding officers, for the
regular and orderly deportment of the individuls Composeing
their respective Squads.

The following individuals after being duly balloted for, have
fallen in the several Squads as hereafter stated, and are Accordingly
placed under the derection of the Sergeants whose names
preceeds those of his squad. (Viz :)

1st Squad
Sergeant Nathaniel Pryor.
Privates

               

George	Gibson
Thomas P.	Howard
George	Shannon
John	Shields
John	Collins
Joseph	Whitehouse
Peter	Wiser
Hugh	Hall

2nd Squad
Sergt. Charles Floyd
Privates

               

Hugh	Mc.Neel
Patric	Gass
Reubin	Fields
Joseph	Fields
John B:	Thompson
Richard	Winser
Richard	Worthington
Robert	Frasure.

3rd Squad
Sergt. John Ordeway
Privates

               

William	Bratten
John	Colter
Alexander	Willard
William	Warner
Silas	Goodrich
John	Potts
John	Robertson
John	Boleye

The Camp Kettles, and other Public utensels for cooking
shall be produced this evening after the parade is Dismissed;
and an equal division shall take place of the same, among the
non commissioned officers Commanding the squads. Those
non-commissioned officers shall make an equal Division of the
proportion of those utensels between their own Messes of their
respective squads,—each squad shall be devided into two
Messes, at the head of one of which the commanding Sergeant
shall Preside. the sergeants Messes will Consist of four privates
only to be admited under his discression, the ballance of
each squad shall form the second mess of each squad.

Dureing the indisposition of Sergeant Pryor, George Shannon
is appointed (protempor) to discharge his the Said Pryor's
duty in his squad.

The party for the co[n]venience of being more imediately
under the eye of the several sergeants haveing charge of them,
will make the necessary exchanges of their Bunks and rooms
for that Purpose as shall be verbally derected by us.

Untill otherwise derected, Sergeant John Ordway will continue
to keep the rouster and detaile the men of the detachment

for the several duties which it may be necessary, they should
perform, as also to transcribe in a book furnished Him for
that purpose, those or such other orders as the Commanding
officers shall think proper to publish from time, to time for
the government of the Party.

[Orderly Book; Ordway:][8]

Detachment Order
River a Dubois, April 7th. 1804.

During the absence of the Commanding officers at St. Louis,
the Party are to Consider themselves under the immediate
command of Sergt. John Ordway; who will be held accountable
for the Poliece; and good order of the Camp, dureing
that period. Every individual of the party will Strictly attend
to all the necessarry duties required for the benefit of the
party; and to the regulations heretofore made which is now in
force. Sergt. Floyd will stay in our quarters, attend to them,
and the Store; and to the other duties reqeired of him; he
will also assist Sergt. Ordway as much as possable.

[Orderly Book:]

Detachment Orders
April 21st. 1804.

Dureing the absence of the Commanding officers at St. Louis
the Party are to be under the immediate Command of Sergeant
John Ordway agreeable to the Orders of the 7th. Instant

[Orderly Book:]

Camp at River a Dubois, May the 4th 1804

Orders Corporal Warvington, Frasier, Boley & the Detachment
late from Captain Stoddards Company will form a
mess under the direction of the Corporal, who shall be held
accountable for their conduct in Camp.

Orders: The Sergeants are to mount as officers of the
Day During the time we delay at this place, and exhibet on
Duty to Command the Detachment in the absence of the
Commanding officer—he is to see that the Guard doe their
Duty, and that the Detachment attend to the regulations heretofore
made and those which may be made from time to time,
No man of the Detachment Shall leave Camp without permission
from the Commanding officer present, except the French
Hands who have families may be allowed to Stay with their
families whilst at this place

2   Sergt. Ordway for Duty to Day. Sergt. Floyd tomorrow
& Sergt. Pryor the next day.

[Clark:]

A Memorandom of Articles in readiness for the Voyage[9]

                                             

Viz:	14	Bags of Parchmeal of 2 bus:	each about.	1200w
	9	do - Common Do . do .	do  .	800
	11	do - Corn Hulled . do   .	do   .	1000
	30	half Barrels of flour) (Gross 3900w)	do
			.	3400
	2	Bags of . do )
	7	do of Biscuit)
		(   .    Gross 650)	do   .	560
	4	Barrels do )
	7	Barrels of Salt of 2 bus: each" (870)	do   .	750
	50	Kegs of Pork . (gross 4500) .	do   .	3705
	2	Boxes of Candles 70lb and about 50lb (one of which has 50lb of soap.	do   .	170
	1	Bag of Candle-wick .   .	do   .	8
	1	do" Coffee .   .   .	.   .	50
	1	do "Beens & 1 of Pees   .	.   .	100
	2	do "Sugar .   .   .	do   .	112
	1	Keg of Hogs Lard .   .	do   .	100
	4	Barrels of Corn hulled (650) .	do   .	600
	1	do of meal    170	do   .	150
	600lb	Grees
	50	bushels meal
	24	do Natchies Corn Huled
	21	Bales of Indian goods Tools of every Description &c &c.

our party

2 Capts. 4 Sergeants, 3 Intptrs., 22 Amns. 9 or 10 French, & York
also I Corpl. & Six in a perogue with 40 Days provisions for the party
as far as these provisions last

[COMMENCEMENT OF THE JOURNALS PROPER]

[Clark:][10]

River a Dubois opposet the mouth of the Missourie River
Sunday May the 13th. 1804.

I despatched an express this morning to Capt. Lewis at St.
Louis, all our provisions Goods and equipage on Board of a
Boat of 22 oars[11] (Party) a large Perogue of 71 oares (in which
8 French) a Second Perogue of 6 oars, (Soldiers) Complete with
Sails &c. &c. Men compd. with Powder Cartragies and 100
Balls each, all in health and readiness to set out. Boats and
everything Complete, with the necessary stores of provisions
& such articles of merchandize as we thought ourselves
authorised to procure—tho' not as much as I think nessy. for the multitude of Inds. thro which we must pass on our road
across the Continent &c. &c.

• Latd. 38° - 55′ - 19″ - 6/10 North of equator

• Lorgtd. 89 - 57 - 45 - West of Greenwich

Monday May 14th. 1804

Rained the fore part of the day I determined to go as far as
St. Charles a french Village 7 Leags. up the Missourie, and wait
at that place untill Capt. Lewis could finish the business in
which he was obliged to attend to at St. Louis and join me by
Land from that place 24 miles; by this movement I calculated
that if any alterations in the loading of the Vestles or other
Changes necessary, that they might be made at St. Charles

I Set out at 4 oClock P.M, in the presence of many of the
neighbouring inhabitents, and proceeded on under a jentle

brease up the Missourie to the upper Point of the 1st Island
4 Miles and camped on the Island which, is Situated Close on
the right (or Starboard) Side, and opposit the mouth of a
Small Creek called Cold water,[12] a heavy rain this after-noon

The Course of this day nearly West wind from N. E.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday May 15th.—

It rained during the greater part of last night and continued
untill 7 OCk. A. M. after which the party proceeded, passed
two Islands and incamped on the Stard. shore at Mr. Fifer's
landing opposite an Island. the evening was fair. some wild
gees with their young brudes were seen to-day. the barge
run foul three several times on logs, and in one instance it was
with much difficulty they could get her off; happily no
injury was sustained, tho' the barge was several minutes in eminent
danger; this was cased by her being too heavily laden in the
stern. Persons accustomed to the navigation of the Missouri
and the Mississippi also below the mouth of this river, uniformly
take the precaution to load their vessels heavyest in the
bow when they ascend the stream in order to avoid the danger
incedent to runing foul of the concealed timber which lyes in
great quantities in the beds of these rivers[13]

[Clark:][14]

May 15th Tuesday—

Rained the greater part of the last night, and this morning
untill 7 oClock. at 9 oClock Set out and proceeded on 9
miles passed two Islands & incamped on the Starbd. Side at a
Mr. Pipers Landing opposet an Island, the Boat run on Logs
three times to day, owing [to] her being too heavyly loaded a
Sturn, a fair after noon, I saw a number of Goslings to day
on the Shore, the water excessively rapid, & Banks falling
In.

Course & Distance assending the Missourie Tuesday 15th May

               

Course	Mls .
West   .	1 - 0 -	To a pt. on St. Side
N 80° W .	2 - 0 -	To a pt on St. Side
N. 11° W .	2 - 1/2 -	To a pt. on Stbd. Side
N 20° W .	1 - 1/2 -	To a pt. on Lbd. Side
S 10° W .	1 - 1/2 -	To a pt. on Stbd. Side
S 22° W .	1 - 0 -	To a pt. on Stbd. Side.
	9 - 1/2	(See Suplemt. in No. 3)

May 16th.. Wednesday

A fair morning Set out at 5 oClk pass a remarkable Coal
Hill on the Larboard Side, Called by the French Carbonere,
this hill appear to Contain great quantity of Coal (& ore of a
  appearance) from this hill the Village of St. Charles
may be Seen at 7 miles distance. we arrived at St. Charles at
12 oClock a number Spectators french & Indians flocked to
the bank to See the party. This Village is about one mile in
length, Situated on the North Side of the Missourie at the
foot of a hill from which it takes its name Peetiete Coete [
petite côte] or the Little hill This Village Contns. about 100 (frame)
houses, the most of them small and indefferent and about 450
inhabitents Chiefly French, those people appear Pore, polite
& harmonious. I was invited to Dine with a Mr. Ducett
[Duquet], this gentleman was once a merchant from Canadia,
from misfortunes aded to the loss of a Cargo, Sold to the late
Judge Turner he has become Somewhat reduced, he has a
Charming wife an elegent Situation on the hill Serounded by
orchards & a excellent gardain.

Course & Distance assending the Missourie the 16th. of May—

       

Course	Mls
South   .	2 . 0 -	To a pt. on Lbd. Side
S. 85° W. .	7 . 0 -	To the mid. of St. Charles passed much hard water & 3 Is.ds.
	9 - 0

[Orderly Book:]

St. Charles, May 16th. 1804

Note the Commanding officer is full[y] assured that every
man of his Detachment will have a true respect for their own

Dignity and not make it necessary for him to leave St. Charles
for a more retired situation.

[Clark:]

May the 17th.. Thursday 1804

A fair day compelled to punish for misconduct, Several
Kickapoos Indians visit me to day, George Drewyer arrive.

Took equal altitudes of Suns L L made it 84° - 39′ - 15″ ap. T.

     

A. M.	8 h - 35′ - 40″	P. M.	3h - 23′ - 24″
	8 - 37 - 50		3 - 24 - 50
	8 - 38 - 20		3 - 25 - 50

Measured the river found it to be 720 yards Wide, a Keel
Boat came up to day. Several of the inhabitents Came abord
to day, reseved Several Speces of vegatables from the inhabitents
to day

[Orderly Book:]

Orders St. Charles Thursday the 17th of May 1804

A Sergeant and four men of the Party destined for the
Missourri Expidition will convene at 11 oClock to day on the
quarter Deck of the Boat, and form themselves into a Court
martial to hear and determine (in behalf of the Capt.) the
evidences aduced against William Warner & Hugh Hall for
being absent last night without leave; contrary to orders;—
& John Collins 1st. for being absent without leave—2nd. for
behaveing in an unbecomeing manner at the Ball last night—
3dly″ for Speaking in a language last night after his return tending
to bring into disrespect the orders of the Commanding
officer

Signd. W. Clark Comdg.

Detail for court martial

           

Sergt. John Ordway Prs
R. Fields
	members
R. Windsor
J. Whitehouse
J°. Potts

The Court convened agreeable to orders on the 17th of May
1804

Sgt John Ordway P.

     

	members
Joseph Whitehouse		Reuben Fields
John Potts		Richard Windsor

after being duly Sworn the Court proceded to the trial of
William Warner & Hugh Hall on the following Charges Viz:
for being absent without leave last night contrary to orders, to
this charge the Prisoners plead Guilty. The Court are of
oppinion that the Prisoners Warner & Hall are Both Guilty
of being absent from camp without leave, it being a breach of
the Rules and articles of War and do Sentence them each to
receive twenty-five lashes on their naked back, but the Court
recommend them from their former Good conduct to the
mercy of the commanding officer.—at the Same court was
tried John Collins Charged

1st. for being absent without leave.

2d for behaveing in an unbecomming manner at the ball last
night.

3dly. for Speaking in a language after his return to camp tending
to bring into disrespect the orders of the Commanding
Officer.

The Prisoner Pleads Guilty to the first Charge but not Guilty
to the two last Charges. after mature deliberation & agreeable
to the evidence aduced, The Court are of oppinion that the
Prisoner is Guilty of all the charges alledged against him it
being a breach of the rules & articles of War and do Sentence
him to receive fifty lashes on his naked back.

The Commanding Officer approves of the proceedings &
Desicon of the Court martial and orders that the punishment
of John Collins take place this evening at Sun Set in the Presence
of the Party. The punishment ordered to be inflicted
on William Warner & Hugh Hall, is remitted under the
assurence arriseing from a confidence which the Commanding
officer has of the Sincerity of the recommendation from the
Court.

after the punishment Warner Hall & Collins will return
to their Squads and Duty

[Clark:]

May the 18th. Friday 1804.

a fine morning, I had the loading in the Boat & perogue
examined and changed so as the Bow of each may be heavyer
loded than the Stern, Mr. Lauremus who had been Sent by
Cap Lewis to the Kickapoo Town on public business, return'd
and after a Short delay proceeded on to St Louis, I sent George
Drewyer with a Letter to Capt Lewis Two Keel Boats arrive
from Kentucky to day loaded with whiskey Hats &c &c. the
wind from the S. W.

Took equal altitudes with Sexten [sextant. —Ed.] made it 97° -
42′ - 37″ M. T.

     

A. M.	9 h - 9′ - 51″	P. M.	2 h - 49′ - 24″
	9 - 10 - 16		2 - 50 - 50
	9 - 11 - 34		2 - 51 - 10

Error of Sextion 8′ - 45″.

May 19th—Satturday 1804—

A violent Wind last night from the W. S. W. accompanied
with rain which lasted about three hours. Cleared away this
morn'g at 8 oClock, I took receipt for the pay of the men
up to the 1st. of Decr. next, R Fields kill a Deer to day, I
reseve an invitation to a Ball, it is not in my power to go.
George Drewyer return from St. Louis and brought 99 Dollars,
he lost a letter from Capt Lewis to me, Seven Ladies visit
me to day

Took equal altituds of ☉ L. L[15] & made it 76° - 33′ - 7″

     

A. M.	8h - 12′ - 20″	P. M.	3h - 45′ - 49″
	8 - 14 - 9		3 - 46 - 22
	8 - 15 - 30		3 - 47 - 41

Error of Sexton as usual.

May 20th Sunday 1804—

(at St. Charles) A Cloudy morning rained and hard Wind
form the   last night, The letter George lost yesterday
found by a Country man, I gave the party leave to go and
hear a Sermon to day delivered by Mr. [Blank space in MS.]
a roman Carthlick Priest

at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Capt. Stoddard accompanied by the
Officers & Several Gentlemen of St Louis arrived in a heavy
Showr of Rain. Messrs. Lutenants Minford & Worriss. Mr. Choteau[,]
Grattiot, Deloney, Laberdee, Rankin. Dr. Sodrang[16]

rained the greater part of this evening, .Suped with Mr.
Charles Tayon, the late Comdr. of Sr. Charles a Spanish Ensign.

[Lewis:]

Sunday May 20th 1804.

The morning was fair, and the weather pleasent; at 10 OCk.
A M. agreably to an appointment of the preceeding day, I was

joined by Capt Stoddard, Lieuts Mi1ford & Worrell together
with Messrs. A. Chouteau, C. Gratiot, and many other rispectable
inhabitants of St. Louis, who had engaged to accompany
me to the Vilage of St. Charles; accordingly at 12 OCk., after
bidding an affectionate adieu to my Hostis, that excellent
woman the spouse of Mr. Peter Chouteau, and some of my fair
friends of St. Louis, we set forward to that vilage in order to
join my friend companion and fellow labourer Capt. William
Clark, who had previously arrived at the place with the party
destined for the discovery of the interior of the continent of
North America the first 5 miles of our rout laid through a
beatifull high leavel and fertile prarie which incircles the town
of St. Louis from N. W. to S. E. the lands through which we
then passed are somewhat broken less fertile the plains and
woodlands are here indiscriminately interspersed untill you arrive
within three miles of the vilage when the woodland commences
and continues to the Missouri the latter is extreemly fertile.
At half after one P. M. our progress was interrupted by the near
approach of a violent thunder-storm from the N. W. and concluded
to take shelter in a little cabbin hard by untill the rain
should be over; accordingly we alighted and remained about
an hour and a half and regailed ourselves with a could collation
which we had taken the precaution to bring with us from
St. Louis.

The clouds continued to follow each other in rapaid succession,
insomuch that there was but little prospect of it's ceasing
to rain this evening; as I had determined to reach St. Charles
this evening and knowing that there was now no time to be lost
I set forward in the rain, most of the gentlemen continued with
me, we arrived at half after six and joined Capt Clark, found
the party in good health and sperits. Suped this evening
with Monsr. Charles Tayong a Spanish Ensign & late Commandant
of St. Charles at an early hour I retired to rest on
board the barge. St. Charles is situated on the North bank of
the Missouri 21 miles above it's junction with the Mississippi,
and about the same distance N. W. from St. Louis; it is
bisected by one principal street about a mile in length runing
nearly parallel with the river, the plain on which it stands is

narrow tho' sufficiently elivated to secure it against the annual
inundations of the river, which usually happen in the month
of June, and in the rear it is terminated by a range of small
hills, hence the appellation of petit Cote, a name by which this
vilage is better known to the French inhabitants of the Illinois
than that of St. Charles. The Vilage contains a Chappel,
one hundred dwelling houses, and about 450 inhabitants;
their houses are generally small and but illy constructed; a
great majority of the inhabitants are miserably pour illiterate
and when at home excessively lazy, tho' they are polite hospitable
and by no means deficient in point of natural genious,
they live in a perfect state of harmony among each other, and
plase as implicit confidence in the doctrines of their speritual
pastor, the Roman Catholic priest, as they yeald passive obedience
to the will of their temporal master the commandant.
a small garden of vegetables is the usual extent of their cultivation,
and this is commonly imposed on the old-men and
boys; the men in the vigor of life consider the cultivation of
the earth a degrading occupation, and in order to gain the
necessary subsistence for themselves and families, either undertake
hunting voyages on their own account, or engage themselves
as hirelings to such persons as possess sufficient capital
to extend their traffic to the natives of the interior parts of the
country; on those voyages in either case, they are frequently
absent from their families or homes the term of six twelve or
eighteen months and alwas subjected to severe and incessant
labour, exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages, the
vicissitudes of weather and climate, and dependant on chance
or accident alone for food, raiment or relief in the event of
malady. These people are principally the decendants of the
Canadian French, and it is not an inconsiderable proportion
of them that can boast a small dash of the pure blood of the
aboriginies of America. On consulting with my friend Capt C.
I found it necessary that we should pospone our departure
untill 2 P. M. the next day and accordingly gave orders to the
party to hold themselves in readiness to depart at that hour.

Capt. Clark now informed me that having gotten all the
stores on board the Barge and perogues on the evening of the

13th. of May he determined to leave our winter cantoonment at
the mouth of River Dubois the next day, and to ascend the
Missouri as far as the Vilage of St. Charles, where, as it had
been previously concerted between us, he was to wait my
arrival; this movement while it advanced us a small distance
on our rout, would also enable him to determine whether the
vessels had been judiciously loaded and if not timely to make
the necessary alterations; accordingly [at 4 P. M. on Monday
the 14th. of May 1804, he embarked with the party in the
presence of a number of the neighbouring Citizens who had
assembled to witness his departure. During the fore part of
this Day it rained excessively hard. In my last letter to the
President dated at St. Louis I mentioned the departure of Capt.
Clark from River Dubois] on the 15th. Inst, which was the day
that had been calculated on, but having completed the arrangements
a day earlyer he departed on the 14th. as before mentioned.
On the evening of the 14th. the party halted and
encamped on the upper point of the first Island which lyes
near the Larbord shore, on the same side and nearly opposite
the center of this Island a small Creek disimbogues called
Couldwater.

The course and distance of this day was West 4 Miles—the Wind
from N. E.[17]

[Clark:]

May 21st. 1804 Monday—

All the forepart of the Day arranging our party and procureing
the different articles necessary for them at this place.
Dined with Mr. Ducett and Set out at half passed three oClock
under three Cheers from the gentlemen on the bank and proceeded
on to the head of the Island (which is Situated on the
Stbd. Side) 3 Miles Soon after we Set out to day a hard
Wind from the W. S W accompanied with a hard rain, which
lasted with Short intervales all night, opposit our Camp a
Small creek coms in on the Lbd Side.

Course & Distance 21st of May

       

	m
S. 15°. W	- 1 - 3/4 -	To bilge of Isd.[18]
N 52° W	- 1 - 1/2 -	TP Upper Pt. of Isd. Std. Sd
	3 - 1/4

May 22nd Tuesday 1804—

A Cloudy Morning Delay one hour for 4 french men who
got liberty to return to arrange Some business they had forgotten
in Town, at 6 oClock we proceeded on, passed Several
small farms on the bank, and a large creek on the Lbd. Side
Called Bonom [bon homme] a Camp of Kickapoos[19] on the
St. Side (An Indian nation residing on the heads of Kaskaskis &
Illinois river 90 miles N.E. of the mouth of the Missouri, & hunt
occasionally on the Missouri)

Those Indians told me several days ago that they would
Come on and hunt and by the time I got to their Camp they
would have Some provisions for us, We camped in a Bend
at the Mo: of a Small creek, Soon after we came too the
Indians arrived with 4 Deer as a Present, for which we gave
them two qts. of Whiskey

Course & Distance the 22nd May

         

S 60°. W.	3	Ms. to a pt. Lbd Side
S 43°. W.	4	Ms. to a pt. Stbd. Side
West	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on Stbd. Sd. psd. Bonom
S. 75°. W.	7 1/2	Ms. to a pt. in Bend to Stbd. Side at the Mo. of Osage Womans R[20]
	18

This day we passed Several Islands, and Some high lands
on the Starboard Side, verry hard water.

May 23rd Wednesday 1804—

We Set out early ran on a Log and detained one hour,
proceeded the Course of Last night 2 miles to the mouth of a
Creek [R] on the Stbd. Side called Osage Womans R, about
30 yds Wide, opposit a large Island and a [American] Settlement.
(on this Creek 30 or 40 famlys are Settled, crossed to
the Setlemt. and took in R & Jos Fields who had been Sent
to purchase Corn & Butter &c Many people Came to See
us, we passed a large Cave on the Lbd. Side (Called by the
french the Tavern[21] —about 120 feet wide 40 feet Deep & 20
feet high many different immages are Painted on the Rock at
this place the Inds. & French pay omage. Many names are
wrote on the rock, Stoped about one mile above for Capt Lewis
who had assended the Clifts which is at the Said Cave 300
fee[t] high, hanging over the waters, the water excessively
Swift to day, We incamped below a Small Isld. in the Middle
of the river, Sent out two hunters, one Killed a Deer.

Course & Distance 23rd May

     

S. 75 W	2	mils to Osage Womn. R the Course of last Night
S. 52 W	7	mils. to a pt. on St. Side.
	9

This evening we examined the arms and amunition found
those mens arms in the perogue in bad order. a fair evening.
Capt. Lewis near falling from the Pinecles of rocks 300 feet, he
caught at 20 foot.

May 24th Thursday 1804—

Set out early. passed a verry bad part of the River Called
the Deavels race ground, this is where the Current Sets against
some projecting rocks for half a Mile on the Labd. Side, above

this place is the Mouth of a Small Creek called queevere,
passed Several Islands, two Small Creeks on the Stbd. Side,
and passed between a Isld. and the Lbd. Shore a narrow pass
above this Isld. is a verry bad part of the river, We attempted
to pass up under the Lbd. Bank which was falling in so fast
that the evident danger obliged us to cross between the
Starbd. Side and a Sand bar in the middle of the river, We
hove up near the head of the Sand bar, the Same moveing &
backing caused us to run on the sand. The Swiftness of the
Current Wheeled the boat, Broke our Toe rope, and was
nearly over Setting the boat, all hands jumped out on the
upper Side and bore on that Side untill the Sand washed from
under the boat and Wheeled on the next bank by the time
She wheeled a 3rd.. Time got a rope fast to her Stern and by
the means of swimmers was Carred to Shore and when her
stern was down whilst in the act of Swinging a third time into
Deep Water near the Shore, we returned, to the Island
where we Set out and assended under the Bank which I have
just mentioned, as falling in, here George Drewyer & Willard,
two of our men who left us at St. Charles to come on by land
joined us, we camped about 1 mile above where we were So
nearly being lost, on the Labd. Side at a Plantation. all in
Spirits. This place I call the retragrade bend as we were
obliged to fall back 2 miles

Course & Distance of the 24th.. May

       

S. 63°. W,	4	Ms. to a pt. on Stbd. Side
S. 68 W,	3	Ms. to a pt on Lbd. Side
S. 75° W,	3	Ms. to a pt. on Stbd. Side
	10

May 25th. Friday 1804—

rain last night, river fall several inches, Set out early psd.
Several Islands passed Wood River on the Lbd. Side at 2
Miles passed [again] the Creek on the St. Side called La
quevr [quiver] at 5 miles passed a [small] Creek (called R la
poceau) at 8 miles, opsc. an Isd. on the Lbd. Side, Camped at
the mouth of a Creek called River a Chouritte, [La Charrette],

above a Small french Village of 7 houses and as many families,[22]
settled at this place to be convt. to hunt, & trade with the Indians,
here we met with M. Louisell, imedeately down from
the Seeder [Cedar] Isld. Situated in the Country of the Sciox
[Sioux] 400 Leagues up he gave us a good Deel of information
[and] Some letters he informed us that he Saw no
Indians on the river below the Poncrars [Poncaras].[23] Some
hard rain this evening.

Course & Distance 25th May

       

West	3	M s. Stbd. Side passed Creek
N. 57° W.	5	Ms. Lbd. Side psd. Creek
N. 20° W	2	M s.to Mo: Chouritte Creek
	10	& Village on the St. Side.

The people at this Village is pore, houses Small, they sent
us milk & eggs to eat.

May the 26th.. Satturday 1804—

Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy Shour of rain (George
Drewyer, & John Sheelds, sent by Land with the two horses
with directions to proceed on one day & hunt the next)

The wind favourable from the E.N.E. passed Beef Island
and River on Lbd. Side at 3 1/2 ms. [a large island called Buffaloe
Island separated from the land by a small channel into which
Buffaloe creek empties itself]. Passed a creek on the Lbd. Side
called Shepperds Creek, passed Several Islands to day, great
Deel of Deer Sign on the Bank, one man out hunting,
W[e] camped on an Island on the Starboard Side [near the
Southern extrem' of Luter Island (La L'outre)[24] ]

Course & Distance to day

             

S. 50°. W.	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt S. Side opsd. pt. Buf Isd.
N. 80° W	2 1/2	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd.
N. 88° W	3 1/2	Ms. to pt. Std. Sd. abov Buf Isd.
N. 82° W	1 1/2	Ms. to pt. Sd. Side
N 37° W	5	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. passed 2 Is. & Shepd. R.
N 60° W.	2	Ms. to pt. on St. Sd. pd. a Isd. S. S.
	18

[Orderly Book; Lewis:]

Detatchment Order.
May 26th. 1804.

The Commanding Officers direct, that the three Squads
under the command of Sergts. Floyd Ordway and Pryor heretofore
forming two messes each, shall untill further orders constitute
three messes only, the same being altered and organized
as follows (viz)

Sergt. Charles Floyd.
Privates

• Hugh Mc. Neal

• Patric Gass

• Reubin Fields

• John B Thompson

• John Newman

• Richard Winsor

• Francis Rivet & (French)

• Joseph Fields

Sergt. John Ordway
Privates

• William Bratton

• John Colter

• Moses B. Reed (Soldier)

• Alexander Willard

• William Warner

• Silas Goodrich

• John Potts &

• Hugh Hall

Sergt. Nathaniel Pryor
Privates

• George Gibson

• George Shannon

• John Shields

• John Collins

• Joseph Whitehouse

• Peter Wiser

• Peter Crusat &

• Francis Labuche

The commanding officers further direct that the remainder
of the detatchmen[t] shall form two messes; and that the same
be constituted as follows. (viz)

Patroon, Baptist Dechamps
Engages.

• Etienne Mabbauf

• Paul Primaut

• Charles Hébert

• Baptist La Jeunesse

• Peter Pinaut

• Peter Roi &

• Joseph Collin

Corpl. Richard Warvington
Privates.

• Robert Frasier

• John Boleye

• John Dame

• Ebinezer Tuttle &

• Isaac White.

The Commanding officers further direct that the messes of
Sergts. Floyd, Ordway and Pryor shall untill further orders form
the crew of the Batteaux; the Mess of the Patroon LaJeunesse
will form the permanent crew of the red Perogue; Corpl.
Warvington's mess forming that of the white perogue.

Whenever by any casualty it becomes necessary to furnish
additional men to assist in navigating the Perogues, the same
shall be furnished by daily detale from the Privates who form
the crew of Batteaux, exempting only from such detale, Thomas
P. Howard, and the men who are assigned to the two bow
and two stern oars. For the present one man will be furnished
daily to assist the crew of the white perogue; this man must
be an expert boatman.

The posts and duties of the Sergts. shall be as follows (viz)—
when the Batteaux is under way, one Sergt. shall be stationed
at the helm, one in the center on the rear of the starboard
locker, and one at the bow. The Sergt. at the helm, shall steer
the boat, and see that the baggage on the quarterdeck is
properly arranged and stowed away in the most advantageous
manner; to see that no cooking utensels or loos lumber of
any kind is left on the deck to obstruct the passage between
the burths—he will also attend to the compas when necessary.

The Sergt. at the center will command the guard, manage the
sails, see that the men at the oars do their duty; that they
come on board at a proper season in the morning, and that the
boat gets under way in due time; he will keep a good lookout
for the mouths of all rivers, creeks, Islands and other remarkable
places and shall immediately report the same to the commanding

officers; he will attend to the issues of sperituous
liquors; he shall regulate the halting of the batteaux through
the day to give the men refreshment, and will also regulate
the time of her departure taking care that not more time than
is necessary shall be expended at each halt—it shall be his
duty also to post a centinel on the bank, near the boat whenever
we come too and halt in the course of the day, at the
same time he will (acompanied by two his guard) reconnoiter
the forrest arround the place of landing to the distance of at
least one hundred paces. When we come too for the purpose
of encamping at night, the Sergt. of the guard shall post two
centinels immediately on our landing; one of whom shal be
posted near the boat, and the other at a convenient distance
in rear of the encampment; at night the Sergt. must be always
present with his guard, and he is positively forbidden to suffer
any man of his guard to absent himself on any pretext whatever;
he will at each relief through the night, accompanyed by
the two men last off their posts, reconnoiter in every direction
around the camp to the distance of at least one hundred and
fifty paces, and also examine the situation of the boats and
perogues, and see that they ly safe and free from the bank.

It shall be the duty of the sergt. at the bow, to keep a good
look out for all danger which may approach, either of the
enimy, or obstructions which may present themselves to the
passage of the boat; of the first he will notify the Sergt. at
the center, who will communicate the information to the commanding
officers, and of the second or obstructions to the boat
he will notify the Sergt. at the helm; he will also report to
the commanding officers through the Sergt. at the center all
perogues boats canoes or other craft which he may discover
in the river, and all hunting camps or parties of Indians in
view of which we may pass. he will at all times be provided
with a seting pole and assist the bowsman in poling and
managing the bow of the boat. it will be his duty also to
give and answer all signals, which may hereafter be established
for the government of the perogues and parties on shore.

The Sergts. will on each morning before our departure relieve
each other in the following manner—(viz) The Sergt. at the

helm will parade the new guard, relieve the Sergt. and the old
guard, and occupy the middle station in the boat; the Sergt. of
the old guard will occupy the station at the bow, and the
Sergt. who had been stationed the preceeding day at the bow
will place himself at the helm.

The sergts. in addition to those duties are directed each to
keep a seperate journal from day to day of all passing occurrences,
and such other observations on the country &c as shall
appear to them worthy of notice.

The Sergts. are relieved and exempt from all labour of making
fires, pitching tents or cooking, and will direct and make
the men of their several messes perform an equal proportion
of those duties.

The guard shall hereafter consist of one sergeant and six
privates & engages.

Patroon Dechamp, Copl. Warvington, and George Drewyer, are
exempt from guard duty; the two former will attend particularly
to their perogues at all times, and see that their lading
is in good order, and that the same is kept perfectly free from
rain or other moisture; the latter will perform certain duties
on shore which will be assigned him from time to time: all
other soldiers and engaged men of whatever discription must
perform their regular tour of gua[r]d duty.

All detales for guard or other duty will be made in the evening
when we encamp, and the duty to be performed will be
entered on, by the individuals so warned, the next morning.
provision for one day will be issued to the party on each evening
after we have encamped; the same will be cooked on that
evening by the several messes, and a proportion of it reserved
for the next day as no cooking will be allowed in the day
while on the ma[r]ch.

Sergt. John Ordway will continue to issue the provisions and
make the detales for guard or other duty.

The day after tomorrow lyed corn and grece will be issued
to the party, the next day Poark and flour, and the day following
indian meal and poark; and in conformity to that rotiene
provisions will continue to be issued to the party untill further
orders. should any of the messes prefer indian meal to flour

they may recieve it accordingly —no poark is to be issued
when we have fresh meat on hand.

Labuche and Crusat will man the larboard bow oar alternately,
and the one not engaged at the oar will attend as the
Bows-man, and when the attention of both these persons is
necessary at the bow, their oar is to be maned by any idle
hand on board.

[Clark:]

May 27th. Sunday 1804—

as we were pushing off this morning two Canoos Loaded
with fur &c came to from the Mahas [Mahar; Omaha—
Ed.] nation, [living 730 miles above on the Missouri] which
place they had left two months, at about 10 oClock 4 Cajaux[25]
or rafts loaded with furs and peltries came too, one from the
Paunees, [Paunees on the river Platt] the others from Grand
Osage, they informed nothing of Consequence, passed a
creek on the Lbd. Side called ash Creek 20 yds. Wide, passed
the upper point of a large Island on the Sbd. Side back of which
comes in three creeks one Called Otter Creek, her[e] the
man we left hunting came in we camped on a Willow Island
in the mouth of Gasconnade River George Shannon killed
a Deer this evening.

Course & Distance 27th. May.

         

N 71°. W.	3	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. an Isd.
S 82° W.	6	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. 2 Isd. a Creek
N 74° W.	1 1/2	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. up pt. big Isd. & 2 Creeks
S 70° W.	5	Ms. to pt. opsd. the Gasconnade R
	15 1/2

May 28th Munday 1804
Gasconnade

Rained hard all last night some thunder & lightning hard
Wind in the forepart of the night from the S W. Ruben Fields
killed a Deer Several hunters out to day. I measured the
river found the Gasconnade to be 157 yds. Wide and 19 foot
Deep the Course of this R. is S. 29° W, one of the hunters
fell in with 6 Inds. hunting, onloaded the large Perogue on
board of which was 8 french hands found many things wet
by their cearlessessness, put all the articles which was wet out
to Dry. this day so Cloudy that no observations could be
taken, the river begins to rise, examine the mens arms and
equapage, all in order

May 29th. Tuesday—

Rained last night, Cloudy morning 4 hunters sent out with
orders to return at 12 oClock

Took equal altitudes of Suns Lower limb found it 105° - 31′ - 45″

     

A M.	9 h - 25′ - 24″	P M	2 h - 35′ - 31″
	9 - 26 - 3		2 - 37 - 20
	9 - 27 - 27		2 - 38 - 52

Error of Sextion 8′. 45″ -

☉s Magnetic Azzamuth S. 83° W.

Time at place of obsvn. by bromtr. P. M. 4 h - 4 m - 44 s

Double altitude of ☉ L Limb—71° - 24′ - 00″

Cap Lewis observed Meridean altitude of ☉ U L. back observation
with the octant & artificeal horozen—gave for altitude on the
Limb 38°. 44′ - 00″.

octant error—2 - 0 - 0 +

had the Perogues loaded and all perpared to Set out at 4
oClock after finishing the observations & all things necessary
found that one of the hunters had not returned, we determined
to proceed on & leave one perogue to wate for him,
accordingly at half past four we set out and came on 4 miles
& camped on the Lbd. Side above a small Creek called Deer
Creek, Soon after we came too we heard several guns fire
down the river, we answered them by a Discharge of a Swivell
on the Bow.

Course to day & Distance 29th May

     

N. 54° W,	2	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd.
N. 78° W	2	Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. pd. Deer Creek
	4

May 30th Wednesday 1804

Rained all last night. Set out at 6 oClock after a heavy
shower, and proceeded on, passed a large Island a Creek
opposit on the St. Side, Just above a Cave Called Monbrun
[Montbrun's] Tavern & River, passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side
call Rush Creek at 4 miles several Showers of rain, the Currents
verry Swift, river rising fast. Passed Big Miry [Muddy]
River at 11 miles on the Starboard Side, at the lower point of
a Island, this River is about 50 yards Wide, Camped at the
mouth of a Creek on Lbd. Sd. of abt. 15 yds.. Wide Called Grinestone
Creek, opposit the head of a Isd. and the mouth of Little
Mirey [Muddy] River, on the St. Side, a heavy wind accompanied
with rain & hail we made 14 miles to day, the river
Continud to rise, the Country on each Side appear full of
Water.

Course & Distance of May 30th..

             

West	2	M s. to a pt. L. Sd. opsd. a Cave & pt. Isd.
S 80° W.	2	Ms. to a pt. on L. Sd. psd. Isd. & rush Creek
S 78° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on L. Sd. psd. a Wil. Isd.
S 66° W	4	Ms. to a pt. on Lbd. Sd. opsd. Miry R: & Isd.
S 48° W	6	Ms. to a pt. on St. Sd. opsd. som sm: Isds.. Psd.
		a creek 2 ms. Swift
	17	say 17 mile

May 31st Thursday 1804—

rained the greater part of last night, the wind from the West
raised and blew with great force untill 5 oClock p. m. which
obliged us to lay by a cajaux of Bear Skins and pelteries came
down from the Grand Osarge, one french man, one Indian,
and a squaw, they had letters from the man Mr. Choteau Sent
to that part of the Osarge nation settled on Arkansa River

mentioning that his letter[26] was commited to the flaims, the
Inds. not believing that the Americans had possession of the
Countrey they disregard'ed St. Louis & their Supplies &c.
Several rats of Considerable Size was Caught in the woods to
day. Capt Lewis went out to the woods & found many curious
Plant & Srubs, one Deer killed this evening.

June 1st 1804 Friday—

Set out early a fair morning Passed the mouth Bear Creek
25 yds. Wide at 6 Miles, Several Small Islands in the river
the wind a head from the West the current exceedingly rapid
Came to at the point of the Osarges River on the Labd Side
of Missouris this Osages river verry high, [we] falled all
the Trees in the point to make observations Set up untill
12 oClock taken observation this night—

Course & Distance June 1st

       

S. 49° W -	4	ms. to pt. Isd. psd. Little Muddy river on Lbd. Sd. 30 yds. wid
S 45° W -	6	ms. to Isd. psd. Bear Creek L. Sd. 20 yd. Wid.
S. 39 W.	3	ms. to Pt. of Osage River
	13

June 2nd Satturday

Cap Lewis Took the Time & Distance of ☉s & Moons
nearest limbs, the Sun East—and Meridean altitude of Suns
U. L. with Octant, back observation gave for altitude 37°—
28′–00″.

Errors of Octant 2°–00′–00″ +. made Several other
observations. I made an angle for the Wedth of the two
rivers. The Missourie from the Point to the N. Side is 875
yards wide the Osage River from the point to the S. E.
Side is 397 yards Wide, the destance between the two rivers
at the pt. of high Land (100 foot above the bottom) and 80
poles up the Missouris from the point is 40 poles, on the
top of this high land under which is a limestone rock two
mouns or graves are raised. from this pt. which comds (commands)

both rivers I had a delightfull prospect of the Missouris
up and down, also the Osage R. up.[27]

George Drewyer & John Shields who we had sent with the
horses by Land on the N. Side joined us this evening much
worsted, they being absent Seven Days depending on their
gun, the greater part of the time rain, they were obliged
to raft or Swim many Creeks, those men gave a flattering
account of of the Countrey Commencing below the first hill
on the N Side and extend'g Parrelal with the river for 30 or
40 Ms. The Two Muddy rivers passing thro. & som fine
Springs & Streems our hunters kill several Deer to day,
Some Small licks on the SE of the Osage River.

June 3rd Sunday 1804—

The forepart of the day fair Took Meridional altitude of
☉s U. L. with the Octant and glass Horreson adjusted back
observation. The instrement gave 38°–2′–00″ it was Cloudy
and the Suns disk much obscured and cannot be Depended on.

We made other Observations in the evening after the return
of Capt. Lewis from a walk of three or four ms. round. We
Set out at 5 oClock P. M. proceeded on five miles to the
mouth of a Creek on the L. S. 20 yds.. wide Called Murow,[28]
passed a Creek at 3 ms. which I call Cupbord Creek as it
mouths above a rock of that appearance. Several Deer killed
to day. at the mouth of the Murow Creek I saw much sign
of War parties of Inds. haveing crossed from the mouth of this
Creek. I have a bad cold with a Sore throat. near West
5 Miles

June 4th Monday 1804—

a fair day three men out on the right flank passed a large
Island on the.St. Side called Seeder Island, this Isd. has a great
Deel of Ceeder on it, passed a Small Creek at 1 ml. 15 yd.
Wide which we named Nightingale Creek from a Bird of that
discription which Sang for us all last night, and is the first

of the Kind I ever heard.[29] passed the mouth of Seeder Creek
at 7 Ms. on the S. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide above Some Small
Isds passed a Creek on the L. S. abt. 15 yds. wide, Mast [Mast]
Creek, here the Serjt. at the helm run under a bending Tree
& broke the Mast, Some delightfull Land, with a jentle
assent about this Creek, well timbered, Oake, Ash, Walnut
&c. &c. passed, wind N W. by W. passed a small creek
called Zancare C on the L. S: at this last point I got out
and walked on the L. S.d thro a rush bottom for 1 Mile & a
Short Distance thro: Nettles as high as my brest assended a
hill of about 170 foot to a place where the french report that
Lead ore has been found, I saw no Mineral of that description.
Cap Lewis camped imediately under this hill,[30] to wate which
gave me Some time to examine the hill, on the top is a
mound of about 6 foot high, and about 100 acres of land which
the large timber is Dead in Decending about 50 foot a projecting
lime stone rock under Which is a Cave at one place
in this projecting rocks I went on one which spured up and
hung over the water from the top of this rock I had a prospect
of the river for 20 or 30 ms. up, from the Cave which
incumpased the hill I decended by a Steep decent to the foot,
a verry bad part of the river opposit this hill, the river continus
to fall Slowly, our hunters killed 7 Deer to day The
land our hunters passed thro: to day on the S. S. was verry
fine the latter part of to day. the high land on the S. S. is
about 2d. rate

Course & Distance 4th.. June

         

N. 30° - W.	4	Ms. to a pt. on S. Sd. psd. a C. & 2 Isd.
N. 25° - W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. Sd. psd. Seeder C.
N. 58 W.	7 1/2	M.s. to pt. on L. S. a Creek on L. S.
N. 75. W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. Sd. opsd. Mine Hill
	17 1/2

June 5th Tuesday 1804—

after Jurking[31] the meet killed yesterday and Crossing the
hunting party we Set out at 6 oClock, from the last Course &
distance, N 51° W. 5 M. to a pt. on the St. Sd. passed a
small creek on the L. S: I call Lead C. passed a creek on
the S. S. of 20 yds. Wide Cal.d Lit: [Little] Good-Womans
C. on the L. S. a Prarie extends from Lead C. parrelel with
the river to Mine river, at 4 Ms. Passed the Creek of
the big rock about 15 yds. wide on the L. S.d at 11 oClock
brought too a small Caissee [raft made of two canoes tied
together] in which was two french men, from 80 Leagues up
the Kansias [Kanzas] R. where they wintered, and Cought a
great quantity of Beaver, the greater part of which they lost
by fire from the Praries, those men inform [us] that the
Kansas Nation are now out in the plains hunting Buffalow,
they hunted last winter on this river Passed a projecting
rock on which was painted a figure [ILLUSTRATION] and a Creek at
2 ms. above Called Little Manitou[32] Creek, from the
Painted rock this Creek 20 yds. wide on the L.
Sd. passed a Small Creek on L. S. opposit a verry bad Sand
bar of Several Ms. in extent, which we named Sand C, here
my Servent York Swam to the Sand bar to geather Greens
for our Dinner, and returned with a Sufficent quantity wild
Creases [Cresses] or Tung [Tongue] grass, we passed up for
2 ms. on the L. S. of this Sand and was obliged to return, the
watr. uncertain the quick Sand moveing we had a fine wind,
but could not make use of it, our Mast being broke, we passed
between 2 Small Islands in the Middle of the Current, &
round the head of three a rapid Current for one mile and
Camped on the S. S. opsd. a large Island in the middle of the
river, one Perogue did not get up for two hours, our Scout
discovd. the fresh sign of about 10 Inds. I expect that those

Indians are on their way to war, against the Osages nation
probably they are the Saukees.[33]

Course & Destance June 5th

     

N. 51°, W.	5	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. ps.d. 3 C, 1 S. 2 L. S.
N 23° W	7 1/2	Ms. a t. L. S. psd. Mon. [Manitou—Ed.] Creek
	12 1/2

June 6th.. Wednesday 1804

Mended our Mast this morning & Set out at 7 oClock under
a jentle breese from S. E. by S passed the large Island, and a
Creek Called Split rock Creek[34] at 5 Ms. on the S. S. psd.
a place to the rock from which this Creek 20 yds. wd. takes
its name, a projecting rock with a hole thro: a point of the
rock, at 8 Ms. passed the Mouth of a Creek Called Saline or
Salt R. on the L. Sd. this River is about 30 yds.. wide, and has
So many Licks and Salt Springs on its banks that the water of
the Creek is Brackish, one verry large Lick is 9 ms. up on the
left Side the water of the Spring in this Lick is Strong as one
bushel of the Water is said to make 7lb. of good Salt passed a
large Isd. & several Small ones, the water excessivly Strong,
so much so that we Camped Sooner than the usual time to
waite for the perogue, The banks are falling in verry much
to day river rose last night a foot.

Capt. Lewis took Meridean altd. of Sun U. L. with the Octant
above Split Rock C. made the altitude 37° 6′-00″ error of
oct. as usual 2° 0′ 0″ + The Country for Several miles below
is good, on the top of the high land back is also tolerble land
Some buffalow Sign to day[35]

I am Still verry unwell with a Sore throat & head ake

Course & Distance June 6th

           

N. 28° W.	3 1/2	Ms. to a Hill on S. S. pd. N. Bilg: of Isd.
N 49° W	1 1/2	Ms. to a creek Split rock
West -	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a Clift
N 31° W.	4 1/2	Ms. 2. to a pt. on L. S. psd. Saline C. L. S.
N. 51° W	3	Ms. to a bilg of an Isd to lift pd. Sm. Isd.
	14

June, 7th.. Thursday 1804

Set out early passed the head of the Island opposit which
we Camped last night, and braekfast at the Mouth of a large
Creek on the S. S. of 30 yds wide called big Monetou,[36] from the
pt. of the Isd. o[u]r Course of last night to the mouth of this
Creek is N 61° W 4 1/2 Ms. a Short distance above the mouth
of this Creek, is Several Courious paintings and carving on the
projecting rock of Limestone inlade with white red & blue flint,
of a verry good quallity, the Indians have taken of this flint
great quantities. We landed at this Inscription and found it a
Den of Rattle Snakes, we had not landed 3 Minites before
three verry large Snakes was observed in the Crevises of the
rocks & killed. at the mouth of the last mentioned Creek
Capt. Lewis took four or five men & went to Some Licks or
Springs of Salt Water from two to four miles up the Creek,
on Rt. Side the water of those Springs are not Strong, say
from 4 to 600 gc. of water for a Bushel of Salt passed some
Small willow Islands and camped at the mouth of a small river
Called Good Womans River[37] this river is about 35 yards Wide
and said to be navagable for Perogues Several Leagues. Capt.
Lewis with 2 men went up the Creek a short distance. our
Hunters brought in three Bear this evening, and informs that
the Countrey thro: which they passed from the last Creek is
fine, rich land, & well watered.

Course & Distance June 7th

         

N 61° W,	4 1/2	Ms. to Mo. of Manitou on S. S.
S 88° W,	2	Ms. to pt. on Lbd. Side
S 81° W	4	Ms. to pt. S. S. psd. an Island
S 87° W	3 1/2	Ms. to pt. of High Land on L. S. psd. W. Isd.
	14 Ms.	Passed the Mo. of Good Womans R.

8th.. of June, Friday 1804—

Set out this morning at Daylight proceeded on the Course
of last night Passed two Willow Islands & a Small Creek
above a Rock point on the L. S. at 6 miles on which there is
a number of Deer Licks, passed the Mine River at 9 ms. this
river is about 70 yards wide at its mouth and is Said to be navagable
for Perogues 80 or 90 ms. the Main [West] branch[38]
passes near the place where the Little Osage village formerly
stood on the Missouries, & heads between the Osarge & Kansias
Rivers, the left hand fork heads with nearer Branches of
the Osage River, The french informd that Lead Ore has been
found in defferent parts of this river, I took Sjt. Floyd and
went out 4 Ms. below this river, I found the land verry good
for a mile or 1 1/2 Ms. back, and Sufficiently watered with Small
Streems which lost themselves in the Missouries bottom, the
Land rose graduelly from the river to the Summit of the high
Countrey, which is not more than 120 foot above High Water
Mark, we joined the Boat & Dined in the point above the
mouth of this River, Capt. Lewis went out above the river &
proceeded on one mile, finding the countrey rich, the wedes
& vines So thick & high he came to the Boat. proceeded on
passed an Island and Camped at the lower point of an Island
on the L. S. Called the Island of Mills about 4 Ms. above Mine
River at this place I found Kanteens, axs, Pumey Stone &
peltry hid and buried (I suppose by some hunters) none of
them (except the pumey Stone) was teched by one of our
party, our hunters Killed 5 Deer to day, commenced raining
Soon after we came too which prevented the party cooking

their provisions. our Spies inform that the Countrey they
passed thro: on S. S is a fine high bottom, no water.

Course & Distance 8th June.

           

S. 81° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. Deer L. Creek L. S.
N 88° W,	3	Ms. to a pt. on L Side
N. 83° W.	2	Ms. to Mouth of Mine Riv. L. S.
N 64° W.	1	Ml. to a pt. on S. S.
N 80° W.	3	Ms. to the Lower pt. of Isd. of Mills
	12

This day we met 3 men on a Cajaux from the River of the
Soux above the Mahar Nation those men had been hunting
12 Mo: & made about 900$ in pelts. & furs they were out
of Provisions and out of Powder. rained this night.

9th of June 1804 Satturday—

a fair morning, the River rise a little we got fast on a Snag
Soon after we Set out which detained us a Short time passed
the upper Point of the Island, Several Small Chanels running
out of the River below a Bluff [Cliff of rocks called the arrow
rock[39] ] & Prarie (Called the Prarie of Arrows) where the river
is confined within the width of 300 [200] yds. Passed a Creek
of 8 yds. wide Called Creek of Arrows, this Creek is Short and
heads in the Praries on the L. S. passed a Small Creek called
Blackbird Creek S.S. and an Island below & a Prarie above on
the L. S. a small Lake above the Prarie. opposit the Lower
point of the 2d. Island on the S. S. we had like to have Stove
our boat, in going round a Snag her Stern Struck a log under
water & She Swung round on the Snag, with her broad Side
to the Current expd. to the Drifting timber, by the active
exertions of our party we got her off in a fiew Mints. without
engerey [injury] and Crossed to the Island where we Campd.[40]
our hunters lay on the S. S. the Perogue crossed without
Seeing them and the banks too uncertain to Send her over.
Some wind from the S accompanied with rain this evening.

The Lands on the S. S. is a high rich bottom the L. S.
appears even and of a good quallity riseing gradually to from
fifty to 100 foot.

Course & Distance June 9th

           

N. 39° W,	4	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a Prarie
N. 34° E.	2	Ms. to pt. of an Isd. L. S.
N. 83′ W,	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. opsd. B. Bs Cr.
N. 39. W.	2	Ms. to a pt. of High Ld. on L. S.
N. 32. E	3 1/2	Ms. to a Pt. on L. S. psd. an Isld.
	13

10th of June1804—

A hard rain last night, We set out this morning verry
early passed Some bad placies in the river, Saw a number
of Goslings [this] morning pass near a Bank which was falling
in at the time we passed, passed two Rivers of Charletons
which mouth together, above some high land which has a great
quantity of Stone Calculated for whetstons the first of those
rivers is about 30 yds. Wide & the other is 70 yds. wd. and heads
Close to the R. Dumons [des Moines] The Aieways [Ayauway]
Nation have a Village on the head of these Rivers.[41]
they run through an even Countrey [a broken rich thickly timbered
country] and is navagable for Perogues Cap Lewis took
Medn. altd. of ☉ U. L. with Octant, back obsvn. made it 37° 12′
—00″ delayed 1 1/2 hours.

Cap. Lewis Killed a large Buck, passed a large Isd. call'd
Shecco[42] and camped in a Prarie on the L. S. I walked out
three miles, found the prarie composed of good Land and
plenty of water roleing & interspursed with points of timber
land. Those Praries are not like those, or a number of those

E. of the Mississippi void of every thing except grass, they
abound with Hasel Grapes & a wild plumb of a Superior [size
&] quallity, Called the Osages Plumb Grows on a bush the
hight of a Hasel (and is three times the sise of other Plumbs,)
and hang in great quantities on the bushes I saw great numbers
of Deer in the Praries, the evening is Cloudy, our party
in high Spirits.

Course & Distance June 10th..

             

N. 8° E	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S.
North	1	Ml. along the L. Side
N. 40° W	1	Ml. do do do
N. 70° W.	0 1/2	(ops.d. the Mos. of Charltons R.
N. 60° W	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
N 80 W	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a Pln.
	10

11th.. June 1804 Monday—

The N W. wind blew hard & cold as this wind was imediately
a head, we could not proceed we took the advantage of
this Delay and Dried our wet articles, examin'd Provisions &c.
&c. the river begining to fall, the hunters killed two Deer
G: Drewyer killed two Bear in the Prarie, they were not fat.
we had the meat Jurked and also the venison, which is a constant
Practice to have all the fresh meat not used, Dried in
this way.

12th.. of June. Tuesday 1804

Set out early passed Some bad Placies, and a Small Creek
on the L. S. called plumb Creek at abt. 1 Ml. at 1 oClock we
brought too [to,] two Chaussies one loaded with furs & Pelteries,
the other with Greece [buffalow grease & tallow] we
purchased 300lbs of Greese, and finding that old Mr. Durioun
was of the party we questioned him untill it was too late to Go
further, and Concluded to Camp for the night, those people
inform nothing of much information.

Concluded to take old durioun [who went acc'] back as fur
as the Soux nation with a view to get some of their Cheifs to
visit the Presdt. of the United S. (This man being a verry

confidential friend of those people, he haveing resided with
the Nation 20 odd years) and to accompany them on[43] [Sentence
incomplete.—Ed.]

Course & Distance June 12th

       

N. 25° W.	3 1/2	Ms. to L. S. passed Plumb C.
N 70 W	2 1/2	Ms. to pt. on S. S.
N. 60° W	3	Ms. to pt. on S. S.
	9

13th.. June Wednesday 1804—

We Set out early passed a round bend to the S. S. and
two Creeks Called the round bend Creeks between those two
Creeks and behind a Small Willow Island in the bend is a
Prarie in which the Missouries Indians once lived and the
Spot where 300 [200] of them fell a sacrifise to the fury of
the Saukees, this nation (Missouries) once the most noumerous
nation in this part of the Continent now reduced to about
30 fes [fires, i. e., families —Ed.] and that fiew under the
protection of the Otteaus[44] [Ottoes] on R Platt who themselves
are declining, passed some willow Isds. and bad Sand bars,
Took Medn. Altitude with Octent back observation it gave
for altd. on its Low L. 36° 58′ 0″ the E [Error] Enstrement
2° 00′ - 00″ +. the Hills or high land for Several days past or
above the 2 Charletons does not exceed 100 foot, passed a
Batteau on Sand rolling where the Boat was nearly turning
over by her Strikeing & turning on the Sand. we came too
in the mouth of Grand River on S. S. and Camped for the
night, this River is from 80 to 100 yards wide at its mouth
and navagable for Perogues a great distance, this river heads
with the R. Dumoine, below its mouth is a butifull Plain of
bottom land, the hills rise at 1/2 a mile back, the lands
about this place is either Plain or over flown bottom. Capt
Lewis and myself walked to the hill, from the top of which we
had a butifull prospect of Serounding countrey, in the open

Prarie we caught a racoon, our hunter brought in a Bear &
Deer, we took some Lunar observations this evening.

Course & Distance 13th. June 1804

         

N. 40° W	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. L. S.
S. 39 W.	3	Ms. to a pt. S. S. psd. 2 Creeks
N. 28, W	1 1/2	Ms. to a Pt. Stbd. S.
N. 30 W	2	Ms. to a pt. L. S. opsd. Gd. R
	9 Ms.

14th. June Thursday—

We Set out at 6 oClock, after a thick fog passed thro: a
narrow pass on the S. S. which forms a large Isd. opposit the
upper point of this Island on the L. S. is one of the worst
quick or moveing sand bars Which I have Seen, notwithstanding
all our precaustons to Clear the Sands and pass
between them (which was the way we were compd. to pass, from
the immence Current & falling banks on the S. S.) the Boat
Struck the point of one from the active exertions of the
men, prevented her turning, if She had turned she must have
overset. We met a Causseu [Cajaux, or raft—Ed.] from the
Pania [Paunee] on the River Platt, we detained 2 hours with
a view of engageing one of the hands to go to the Pania nation
with a view to get those people to meet us on the river, (I
went out & Shot a Deer) We passed a high land, & clay
bluff on the S. S. Called the Snake bluff from the number of
Snakes about this place, we passed a Creek above the Bluff
about 18 yds. wide, this Creek is Called Snake Creek,[45] a bad
Sand bar just below, which we found Dificullty in passing &
Campd. above, our Hunters came in. George Drewyer, gives
the following act. of a Pond, & at abt. 5 Miles below here S. S.
Passed a Small Lake in which there was many Deer feeding.
he heard in this Pond a Snake makeing goubleing noises like
a turkey. he fired his gun & the noise was increased, he
has heard the indians mention this Species of Snake, one
Frenchman gives a Similar account

Course & Distance June 14th..

         

S. 33° W	2	Ms. to Lowr. pt. on an Isd. S. S.
S. 60° W	1	Ml. thro: a chanil on S. S.
S. 70° W	2	Ms. to pt. L. S. passed a bad Sand
S. 5 E	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. passed a Creek S. S.
	8

15th June, Friday 1804—

Set out early and had not proceeded far e'er we wheeled on
a Sawyer which was near injuring us verry much, passed a
plain on the L. S. a Small Isd. in the midle, the river riseing,
water verry swift Passed a Creek on the L. S. passed between
two Islands, a verry bad place, moveing Sands, we were
nearly being swallowed up by the rolling Sands over which the
Current was so Strong that we could not Stem it with our
Sales under a Stiff breese in addition to our ores, we were
compelled to pass under a bank which was falling in, and use
the Toe rope occasionally, Continued up pass two other
Small Islands and Camped on the S. S. nearly opposit the
antient Village of the Little Osarges and below the antt. Village
of the Missouries both Situations in view and within three
Ms. of each other,[46] the Osage were Settled at the foot [of]
a hill in a butifull Plain, which extends back quite to the
Osage River, in front of the Vilg: next to the river is an
ellegent bottom Plain which extends several miles in length on
the river in this low Prarie the Missouries lived after they
were reduced by the Saukees at their Town Some Diste. below.
The little osage finding themselves much oppressed by the
Saukees & other nations, left this place & built a village 5
Ms. from the Grand Osarge Town, about years ago a
fiew of the Missouries accompanied them, the remainder of
that Nation went to the Otteaus on the River Platt. The
River at this place is about 3 [one] Ms. wide. our hunters did
not come in this evening the river beginning to fall

Course & Distance June 15th

               

S. 35° W.	2	Ms. along S. S.
S. 50° W.	1 1/2	Ms. a pt. L. S. passed a pra: & Creek L. S.
S. 51° W.	2 1/2	Ms. pt. S. S. psd. a Willow Isd.
S. 8° W.	3/4	Ms. to a pt. L. S. passd. Low pt/2 Isds.
S. 80° W.	2	Ms. to upr. Pt. Isd. S. S. psd. bad place
S. 5° W.	2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. passed bad place
S. 12° W.	1 1/2	Ms. to a pd. S. S. psd. a Isd. in Midl opsd. old village
	12 1/4	Lit: Osage.

16th June Satturday 1804—

Set out at 7 oClock at about a mile 1/2 we came to the
Camp of our hunters, they had two Bear & two Deer, proceeded
on pass a Island on the S. S. a heavy rain came on &
lasted a Short time, we came to on the S. S. in a Prarie at the
place where Mr. Mackey lais down a old french fort,[47] I could
See no traces of a Settlement of any kind, in the plain I discovered
a kind of Grass resembling Timothey which appeared
well Calculated for Hay. this Plain is verry extensive in the
evening I walked on the S. S. to see if any timber was convt.
to make Oars, which we were much in want of, I found some
indifferent timber and Struck the river above the Boat at a
bad Sand bar, the worst I had Seen which the boat must pass
or Drop back Several Miles & Stem a Swift Current on the

opsd. Side of an Isd. the Boat however assended the middle of
the Streem which was difficult Dangerious We came to above
this place at Dark and Camped in a bad place, the Mosquitoes
and Ticks are noumerous & bad.

Course & Distance June 16th..

             

N. 68.° W.	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. L. S. pass Isd. S. S.
West	2	Ms. to a blg. in Snag Isd. L. S.
S. 85 W.	1	Ml. on L. S. a bad Sand Mid.
S. 61 W.	1	Ml. on L. S. do do and 2 sm. Isds..
S. 30 W.	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. passed upr Sd. Isd.
S. 40 W	1	Ml. alg. S. S. an Isd. Mdl. & bad ps
	10

June 17th. Sunday 1804 (S. 65° W. 1 Ml. S. Side.)—

Cloudy morning wind from the S. E we Set out early and
proceeded on one mile & came too to make oars, & repair our
cable & toe rope &c. &c. which was necessary for the Boat &
Perogues, Sent out Sjt. Pryor and Some men to get ash timber
for ores, and Set some men to make a Toe Rope out of the
Cords of a Cable which had been provided by Capt. Lewis at
Pittsburg for the Cable of the boat. George Drewyer our
hunter and one man came in with 2 Deer & a Bear, also a
young Horse, they had found in the Prarie, this horse has
been in the Prarie a long time and is fat, I Suppose, he has
been left by Some war party against the Osage, This is a
Crossing place for the war parties against that nation from the
Saukees, Aiaouez, [Ayauways] & Souix. The party is much
aflicted with Boils, and Several have the Deassentary, which I
contribute to the water [which is muddy.] The Countrey
about this place is butifull on the river rich & well timbered
on the S. S. about two miles back a Prarie coms. [commences]
which is rich and interspursed with groves of timber, the
county rises at 7 or 8 miles Still further back and is rolling.
on the L. S. the high lands & Prarie coms. in the bank of the
river and and continus back, well watered and abounds in Deer
Elk & Bear The Ticks & Musquiters are verry troublesome.

June 18th.. Monday

Some rain last night, and Some hard Showers this morning
which delay our work verry much, Send out Six hunters in
the Prairie on the L. S. they kill 5 Deer & Coht [caught] a
Bear, which verry large & fat, the party to wok at the oars,
make rope, & jurk their meat all Day Dry our wet Sales &c.
in the evening, The Musquiters verry bad

June 19th.. Tuesday

rain last night after fixing the new oars and makeing all
necessary arrangements, we set out under a jentle breese from
the S. E. and proceeded on passed two large Islands on the
S. S. leaving J. Shields and one man to go by land with the
horses Some verry hard water, passed Several Islands &
Sand bars to day at the head of one we were obliged to cleare
away Driftwood to pass, passed a Creek on the L. Side Called
Tabboe [Tabo] 15 yds. Wide passed a large Creek at the head
of an Island Called Tiger River 25 yds. on the S. S. the
Island below this Isd. is large and called the Isle of Pant[h]ers,
formed on the S. S. by a narrow Channel, I observed on the
Shore Goose & Rasp berries in abundance in passing Some
hard water round a Point of rocks on the L. S. we were obliged
to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we
came too on the L. S. near a Lake of the Sircumfrance of
Several miles, Situated on the L. S. about two miles from the
river[48] this Lake is Said to abound in all kinds of fowls, Great
numbers of Deer frequent this Lake dureing Summer Season,
and feed on the hows [haws] &c. &c. they find on the edgers
the Land on the North Side of the river is rich and Sufficiently
high to afford Settlements, the Lds. on the South Side assends
Gradually from the River not So rich, but of a good quallity
and appear well watered

Course & Distance June 19th

             

N 87° W.	3	Ms. to upr. pt. of an Island.
S 80° W	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. L. Side psd. 4 wil. Isds..
S. 70° W	1 1/2	Ms. along the L. S.
S 58° W	4 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. psd. a Isd. S. S.
S. 68 W	3	Ms. to pt. S. S. psd. Tabbo Creek
S. 83 W	4	Ms. to pt. L. S. Campd. 1 Ml.[49]
	17 1/2

June 10th Wednesday—

Set out after a heavy Shower of rain and proceeded on the
Same Course of last night passede a large butifull Prarie on
the S. S. opposit a large Island, called Saukee Prarie, a jentle
breese from the S. W. Some butifull high lands on the L. S.
passed Som verry Swift water to day, I saw Pelicans to day on
a Sand bar, My Servent York nearly loseing an Eye by a
man throwing Sand into it, we came too at the lower Point
of a Small Island, the party on Shore we have not Seen Since
we passed Tiger R. The Land appear'd verry good on each
Side of the river to day and well timbered, We took Some
Loner observations, which detaind. us untill 1 oClock a butifull
night but the air exceedingly Damp, & the Mosquiters
verry troublesome

Course & Deistances June 20th.

           

S. 42° W.	1	Ml. along L. S.
S. 46°. W	2	Ml. to pt. S. S. psd. an Isd.
S. 51°. W	1 1/2	Ms. to pt. L. S. opsd. Isd. & Saukee Prarie on S. S.
S. 70°. W	3/4	Ml. along L. S. water bad
S. 25°. W	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. psd. Isd. & bad Sand
	6 3/4

21st.. June Thursday—

The river rose 3 Inches last night after the Bows man
Peter Crousat viewed the water on each Side of the Island
which presented a most unfavourable prospect of Swift water

over rolling Sands which rored like an immense falls, we concluded
to assend on the right Side, and with much dificuelty,
with the assistance of a long Cord or Tow rope, & the anchors,
we got the Boat up without any further dang. than Braking
a Cabbin window & loseing Some oars which were Swong
under the windows, passed four Isds.. to day two large & two
Small, behind the first large Island two Creeks mouth, called
Eue-bert [Hubert][50] Creek & River & Isd. the upper of those
Creeks head against the Mine River & is large, passed a
verry remarkable bend in the River to the S. forming an
accute angle, the high lands come to the river on the S. S.
opposit the upper large Island, this Isd. is formed by a narrow
chanel thro. the Pt. of the remarkable bend just mentiond. below
this Isd. on the L. S. is a Counter Current of about a
mile. passed between several Small Islands Situated near the
L. Side and camped above on the Same Side. Two men Sent
out to hunt this evening brought in a Buck & a pore Turkey.

at Sunset the atmespier presented every appearance of wind,
Blue & White Streeks centiring at the Sun as She disappeared
and the Clouds Situated to the S. W. Guilded in the most
butifull manner.

The Countrey and Lands on each Side of the river is
various as useal, and may be classed as follows, viz: the low
or overflown points or bottom land, of the groth of Cotton
& Willow, the 2nd.. or high bottom of rich furtile Soile of the
groth of Cotton, Walnut, Som ash, Hackberry, Mulberry,
Lynn [Linden] & Sycamore. the third or high Lands rises
gradually from the 2nd.. bottom (except whin it Coms to the
river then from the river) about 80 or 100 foot roleing back
Supplied with water (the small rivers of which loses themselves
in the bottom land) and are covered with a variety of timber
Such as Oake of different Kinds Blue ash, Walnut &c. &c. as
far as the Praries, which I am informed lie back from the river,
at Some places near & others a great Distance

Course & Distance June 21st.. 1804

               

S. 77° W.	2 1/2	Ms. along S. S. psd. the hd. of a lg Isd. L. S.
N. 30° E,	1 1/2	Ms. pt. L. S. psd. a cl. Low pt. Isd. on L. S. (1)
North,	1	Ml. along the Larboard Side
N 18° W	1/2	Ml. do do do
N 84° W	1/2	Ml. do do do
S. 80° W,	3/4	Ml. do do  psd. Sevl. Sm. Isds. L. S.
S. 35 W	3/4	Ml. do do psd. do do do
	7 1/2

22nd.. June Friday—

river rose 4 Inch last night I was waken'd before daylight
this morning by the guard, prepareing the Boat to receve
an apparent Storm which threttened violence from the West
at daylight a violent wind accompanied with rain cam[e] from
the W. and lasted about one hour, it Cleared away, and we
Set out and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from the
N. W. passed Some verry Swift water, crouded with Snags,
pass two large Island opposit each other, and immediately
opposit a large & extensive Prarie on the Labd. Side, This
Prarie is butifull a high bottom for 1 1/2 mile back and rises
to the Common leavell of of the Countrey (about 70 or 80
feet) and extends back out of view. Capt. L walked on Shore
a fiew miles this after noon (at 3 oClock P. M. Farents. Thermometer
Stood at 87° = to 11° above Summer heat) We
came too on the L. Side opposit the mouth of a large Creek
called the River of the Fire Prarie,[51] at the mouth of this
Creek, the Party on Shore were waiting our arrival, they
informed that the Lands thro: which they passed was fine &
well watered

Course & Distance June 22nd

         

S. 14° W.	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on the S. S.
S. 25° W	3	Ms. to a pt. on the S. S. bad wat.
S. 66° W.	1/2	Ml. on S. Side
N. 60° W	4 1/2	Mls to a pt. on the L. S. psd. 2 Isds and a Prarie
	10 1/2

23rd.. June Satturday—

Some wind this morning from the N. W. we set out at
7 oClock, and proceeded on to the head of a Island on the
S. S. the wind blew hard and down the river which prevented
the P'ty moveing [proceding] from this Island the whole
day,[52] Capt. Lewis had the arms examined &c. at the lower
end of this Island I got out of the boat to walk on Shore, &
expected the party on Shore would overtake me, at the head
of the Island, they did not & I proceeded on round a round
and extensive bend in the river, I Killed a Deer & made a
fire, expecting the boat would come up in the evening. the
wind continueing to blow prevented their moveing, as the
distance by land was too great for me to return by night I
concluded to Camp, Peeled Some bark to lay on, and
geathered wood to make fires to keep off the musquitrs &
knats, Heard the party on Shore fire, at Dark Drewyer
came to me with the horses, one fat bear & a Deer, river fell
8 Inches last night

Course & Distance June 23rd..

     

N 70° W	2	Ms. to an Isd. on S. S. (I went out)
N 75° E	1 1/2	Ms. psd. the head of the Isd. to pt. L. S.
	3 1/2

24th June Sunday—

Set out at half after Six. I joined the boat this morng at
8 oClock (I will only remark that dureing the time I lay on
the sand waiting for the boat, a large Snake Swam to the bank
imediately under the Deer which was hanging over the water,
and no great distance from it, I threw chunks and drove this
snake off Several times. I found that he was so determined
on getting to the meet, I was compelld. to kill him, the part

of the Deer which attracted this Snake I think was the Milk
from the bag of the Doe.) I observed great quts. of Bear
Signs, where the had passed in all Directions thro the bottoms
in Serch of Mulberries, which were in great numbers.
in all the bottoms thro which our party passed)

Passed the mouth of a Creek 20 yds. wide name [named]
Hay Cabbin Creek[53] from Camps of Straw built on it

came to about 1/2 Ml. above this creek & jurked, the meet
killed yesterday and this morning Lattitude of this place
38°–37′–5″ N. Capt. Lewis walked on Shore & killed a Deer,
pass a bad part of the river, on the S. S. the rocks projected
into the river Some distance, a creek above called Sharriton
Carta,[54] in the evening we Passed thro: between two Sand
bars at the head we had to raise the Boat 8 Inches to get
her over, Camped near the lower point of an Island on the
on the L. Side, party in high Sperrits. The Countrey on each
side of the river is fine interspursed with Praries, in which
immence herds of Deer is Seen,[55] on the banks of the river
we observe numbers of Deer watering and feeding on the
young willow, Several killed to day

Course & Distance June 24th

             

N 80. E	1/4	Ml. on the Larboard Side
N 55. E	1/4	Ml. on other
West	3	Ms. to a point on S. S.
N 80. W.	4 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. passd. Hay Cab. Is.
West	1/2	Ml. on L. Side
S 21°. W	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. a rock & Creek L. S.
	11 1/2

25th.. June Monday

a thick fog detained us untill 8 oClock, passed a Island,
at 3 Miles passed a Coal-Mine, or Bank of stone Coal, on
the South Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity
of fine Coal, the river being high, prevented our Seeing
that contained in the cliffs of the best quallity, a Small Creek
mouths below this bank call'd after the bank Chabonea [Charbon]
Creek the Wind from the N. W. passed a Small Creek
on the L. Side at 12 oClock, called Bennet's Creek The Praries
come within a Short distance of the river on each Side which
Contains in addition to Plumbs Raspberries &c. vast quantities
of wild apples, great numbs. of Deer are seen feeding on
the young willows & earbage in the Banks and on the Sand
bars in the river, our party on Shore did not join in this
evening we camped on an Island Situated on the S. Side,
opposit some hills higher than Common, say 160 or 180 feet
above the Bottom. The river is Still falling last night it fell
8 Inches

Course & Distance June 25th..

                   

S. 49° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
S 55 W	1/2	Ml. on the S. S. psd. a Coal Mine
N. 50° W	3 1/2	Ms. to Pt. on L. S. psd. a Creek L. S.
N. 70° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S. pass Willow Isd.
S. 80° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S. ditto
S 55° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S. ditto
S 15° W	1/2	Ml. on L. S. ditto & round Pt.
S 2° E	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
S 48 W	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. a Isd.
	13

June 26th.. Tuesday 1804—

We Set out early, the river falling a little, the wind from
the S. W. Passed the mouth of a Small river on the L. Side
above the upper point of a Small Island, called Blue Water
River,[56] this river heads in Praries back with the Mine River

about 30 yds. wide Lattitude of a pt. 4 Ms. above this river is
38° 32°′–15″ North, the high lands which is on the North
Side does not exceed 80 feet high, at this Place the river
appears to be confd. in a verry narrow channel, and the current
Still more so by Counter Current or Whirl on one Side
& high bank on the other, passed a Small Isd. in the bend
to the L. Side We Killed a large rattle Snake, Sunning himself
in the bank, passed a bad Sand bar, where our tow rope
broke twice, & with great exertions, we rowed round it and
came to & camped, in the Point above the Kansas [Kanzas]
River I observed a great number of Parrot queets [Parroquets]
this evening, our Party killed Several [7] Deer to day

Course & Distance June 26th

                 

S 62° W.	1/2	Ml. on the S. S. Isd. on L. S.
S 80° W.	1/2	Ml. on the S. S. psd. Blue Water R. L. S.
N 87° W.	1	Ml. on the S. S.
N. 85° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on the L. S. Midl. abt.
S. 80° W.	1/2	Ml. on L. S.
S. 37° W.	2 1/2	Mls to a pt. on S. S. psd. Lit. Cr.
S. 58° W	1	Ml. on S. S. psd. a bad place
S. 78° W.	3/4	Ml. to the up. pt. of Kansas R.
	9 3/4	= 366 & 3/4 Ms. to mouth of Missourie

June 27th.. Wednesday—

a fair warm morning, the river rose a little last night, we
determine to delay at this Place three or four Days to make
observations & recruit the party, Several men out Hunting,
onloaded our Perogue, and turned her up to Dry with a view
of repairing her after completing a Strong redoubt or brest
work from [one] river to the other, of logs & Bushes Six feet
high, The Countrey about the mouth of this river is verry
fine on each Side as well as North of the Missourie the
bottom, in the Point is low & overflows for 250 yards. it
rises a little above high water mark and continus of that hight
of good quallity back to the hills A high Clift, on the upper
Side of the Kanses 1/2 a mile up below the Kanses the hills
is about 1 1/2 Miles from the point on the North Side of the

Missourie the Hils or high lands is Several Miles back, we
compared the instrumts Took equal altitudes, and the Meridian
altitude of the Suns L. L. to day Latitude 38° 31′–13″
Longitude [Blank space in MS.] measured the width of the
Kansas River by an angle and made it 230 yds. 1/4 wide,[57] it is
wider above the mouth the Missourie at this place is about
500 yards wide, The Course from the Point down the Midl.
of the Missourie is S. 32° E, & turns to the North. up Do:
is N 21° W. & do do [i. e. turns to the North—Ed.] Do.
up the right side of the Kansas is S. 54° E., & the river turns
to the left, Several Deer killed to day.

28 June Thursday—

took equal altitudes &c. &c. &c. & varaition of the Compass
repaired the Perogue cleaned out the Boat suned our Powder
[and] wollen articles examined every thing 8 or 10 huntrs
out to day in different directions, in examining our Private
Store of Provisions we found Several articles Spoiled from the
wet or dampness they had received, a verry warm day, the
wind from the South, The river Missourie has raised yesterday
last night & to day about 2 foot. this evening it is on a
Stand, Captt. Lewis weighed the water of the Two rivers
The Missourie 78° the Kansais 72°. (the weight is)[58]

To Describe the most probable of the various accounts of
this great river of the Kansas, would be too lengthy & uncertain
to insert here, it heads with the river Del Noird in the
black Mountain or ridge which Divides the Waters of the
Kansas Del Nord, & Callarado & [a word almost illegible;
possibly "offshoots."—Ed.] from those of the Missourie
(and not well assertaind.) This river receves its name from a
Nation which dwells at this time on its banks & [has] 2
villages one about 20 leagues & the other 40 Leagues up,
those Indians are not verry noumerous at this time, reduced
by war with their neighbours, &c, they formerly lived on
the South banks of the Missourie 24 Leagues above this river
in a open & butifull plain, and were verry noumerous at the

time the french first Settled the Illinois, I am told they are
a fierce & warlike people, being badly Supplied with fire arms,
become easily conquered by the Aiauway & Saukees who are
better furnished with those materials of War, This Nation is
now out in the Plains hunting the Buffalow [They consist of
about 300 men] our hunters killed Several Deer and Saw
Buffalow, Men impd. [employed] Dressing Skins & makeing
themselves comfortable, the high lands come to the river
Kansas on the upper Side at about a mile, full in view, and a
butifull place for a fort, good landing-place, the waters of the
Kansas is verry disigreeably tasted to me.

29th.. June Friday

obsvd. the distance of ☉ & ☾, took Equal & maridional
Altd. and after makeing Some arrangements, and inflicting a
little punishment to two men we Set out at 1/2 past 4 oClock,
and proceeded on. (I) passed a large Island on the S. Side,
opposit a large Sand bar, the Boat turned, and was within Six
Inches of Strikeing the rapidity with which the Boat turned
was so great that if her bow had Struck the Snag, She must
have either turned over or the bow nocked off, S W wind

Course Distance and refferences June 29th.

       

N. 21. W.	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. pt. Isd. S. S. (I)
N. 1.8° W.	3/4	Ml. on the L. S. psd. Hd. of the Isd.
S. 79. W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on the S. S.
	7 1/4

[Orderly Book; Clark:]

Camp Mouth of the Kansies June 29th 1804

Ordered—A Court Martiall will Set this day at 11 oClock,
to consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and
Hugh Hall, Confined on Charges exhibited against them by
Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the articles of War.

Detail for the Court

• Sergt. Nat. Pryor presd.

• 2 John Colter

• 3 John Newmon

• 4 Pat. Gass   Mbs.

• 1 J. B. Thompson

John Potts to act as Judge advocate.

The Court Convened agreeable to order and proceeded to
the trial of the Prisoners Viz

John Collins Charged "with getting drunk on his post this
Morning out of whiskey put under his charge as a Sentinal,
and for Suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the Said
Barrel intended for the party."

To this Charge the prisoner plead not Guilty.

The Court after mature deliv[b]eration on the evidence
adduced &c. are of oppinion that the prisoner is Guilty of the
Charge exibited against him, and do therefore sentence him
to receive one hundred Lashes on his bear Back.

Hugh Hall was brought before the Court Charged with
takeing whiskey out of a Keg this morning which whiskey was
stored on the Bank (and under the Charge of the Guard) Contrary
to all order, rule, or regulation."

To this Charge the prisoner "Pleaded Guilty."

The Court find the prisoner Guilty and Sentence him to
receive fifty Lashes on his bear Back.

The Commanding Officers approve of the Sentence of the
Court and orders that the Punishment take place at half past
three this evening, at which time the party will Parrade for
inspection.

30th.. June Satturday 1804

Set out verry early this morning, a verry large wolf came
to the bank and looked at us this morning, passd. the (I)
mouth of a Small river 10 Ms. above the Kansas called by the
french Petite River Platte (or Shoal river) from the number of
falls in it, this river is about 60 yards wide at its mouth and
runs Parrilel with the Missouries for ten or twelve miles,[59]
Some of the party who went up told that the lands on this
Small river is good, and on it several falls well calculated for
mills, The wind from S. W. came to at 12 oClock & rested
three hours, the [day] being hot the men becom verry
feeble, Farnts. Thermometer at 3 oClock stood at 96° above o,

emence numbs. of Deer on the banks, Skipping in every derection,
the party killed nine Bucks on the river & Bank today,
The Countrey on the S. S. between the Shoal River & Missouris
is indefferent Subject to overflow, that below and on
the L. S. is high & appers well timbered, camped on the
L. S. opsd. the Lower point of a Isd. Called Diamond Island,
Broke our Mast

Course Distance & reefrs June 30th..

           

N. 20° W.	2	Ms. to pt. L. S. Boat turned
N 30° W.	1/2	M.l. on L. S. High Land S. S.
S. 64° W.	2 1/2	Ms. to p.t. on S. S. psd. R. Plate (I)
West -	1	M1. on S. S. a Sm. Creek L. S.
N. 60° W	4	Ms. to pt. on L. S.
	10

July 1st.. Sunday 1804

a Small allarm last night all prepared for action, Set out
early this morning passed on the North Side of Dimond
Island, a Small Creek mouths opposit, I call Biscuit Creek,
a large Sand bar in the middle of the river 1 1/2 Ms. above the
Isd. covered with Drift wood, river fall a little, the wind
from S. W. Came to above this Drift and delayed three
hours to refresh the men who were verry much over powered
with the heat, Great quantitys of Grapes & raspberries, (2)
passed a Small Creek on the L. S. below one large and two
small Islands. This Creek and Isds. are called Remore (or
Tree Frog) a large Pond on the S. S., the main current of
Water run'g on the L. S. of the Island, I am told that three
years ago the Main Current run on the S. S. of the Island
and no appearance of the two Smaller Islands, Camped on
the lower point of one of the two large & 2 Small Isds. Called
Isles des Parques or field Isl'ds[60] a high butifull Prarie on
the L. S. one of the french hands Says "that the french kept
their cattle & horses on those Islands at the time they had in
this quarter a fort & trading establishment.

Course Distance & refs. July 1st

                 

N. 62°. W.	1 1/2	Ms. on the S. Side of the Isd.
N. 40°. W	1/4	Ml. do   do   do
N 28°. W	3/4	Ml. to pt. on L. S. psd. the Isd.
N. 45°. W	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. Drift
N 32°. W	1 1/2	Ml. to a creek (2) L. S.
N 58 W	2 1/2	Ms. to pt. L. S. pst. the head of Isd.
N. 42 W.	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
N. 27 W.	1/2	Ml. to pt. of Field Isd. prarie L. S.
	12

paccaun [pecan—Ed.] Trees Seen on the S. S. Deer and
turkeys in great quantities on the bank

July 2nd 1804—

Set out early and preceded on the left of the Islands, two
of which are large a high bottom Situated on the L. S.
passed the mouth of a Creek on the S. S. called Turquie
[Parques] Creike, at this place I observed that the river was
Crouded with Drift wood, and dangerous to pass as this dead
timber Continued only about half an our, I concluded that
Some Island of Drift had given way (3) passed a Creek on
the L. S. called Turkey Creek, a bad Sand' bar on the L. S.
we could with dificuelty Stem the Current with our 20 oars &
and all the poles we had, passed a large Island on the S. S.
Called by the Indians Wau-car-ba war-cand-da or the Bear
Medesin Island,[61] at 12 oClock landed on the Island a [nd—
Ed.] put up a mast which detained us four hours, a verry
hot day winds from the S. E. George Drewyer informs that
the Lands he passed through, yesterday and to day on the
S. S. was verry fine, few Springs, We camped after dark on
the S. S. above the Island & opposit the 1st old village of the
Kanzes. which was Situated in a Valley, between two points
of high Land, and imediatly on the river bank, back of the
village and on a riseing ground at about one mile The French
had a garrison for some time and made use of water out of a

Spring running into Turkey Creek.[62] an extensive Prarie, as
the Current of the river Sets against the banke and washes it
away the landing place for Boats is indefferent. The high
lands above the Fire river, approaches nearer east, than below,
being from 3 to 6 Miles distant and above Kansas from 3 to
5 Miles distant and the Hills at Some places are from 160 to
180 feet above the bottom

Course and distance & reffersns.. July 2d.

                 

N. 22°. W.	1 1/4	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. in a bend (1)
N. 10° W	2 1/4	Ms. to a pt. of a Lit: Isd. on S. S. passd. Isd. (2)
N 34° E	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. Turkey Cr. (3)
N 10° W	1/2	on the L. S. High Lds. on S. S.
N. 46 W	1 1/4	Ms. on S. S. of an Isd. on S. S. (4)
S. 87 W	1/2	Ml. on S. S. a point psd. a run
S 81° W	2 1/4	Mls.. on S. S. psd. head of Island
N 82 W	2	Ms. on the S. S. psd. Swift Water
	11 1/2

1st old village Kansas

July 3rd Tuesday 1804

Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a
gentle Breeze from the S. passed two Islands (I) one a Small
Willow Island on the L. S. the other large Called by the
french Isle de Vache or Cow Island, opposit the head on the
S. S. is a large Pond containg Beever, & fowl, a bad Sand
bar on the S. S. above the Island, on the L. S. we halted at
an nid Tradeing house [deserted], here we found a verry fet
horse, which appears to have been lost a long time, a butifoll
small run passes back of the Tradeing house near the high
land, we came to at a round bend on the L. S. and camped

Course Distance & refrs. July 3rd..

                       

N. 53° W.	1	Ml. on the S. S.
N. 50° W.	1/4	Ml. do. do
N. 18° E	1	Ml. to a pt. on L. S. opsd. 2 Ids. (1)
N 30° W	3/4	Ml. to pt. Left of an Isld.
N 10° W.	1/2	Ml. to pt. L. S.
N 60° W	1/4	Ml. to a pt. on the Island
N 78 W	1/2	Ml. to a pt. L. S. at Hd. of Isd. (2)
S 56° W	2 1/4	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. of Missouri.
N. 50° W.	1	Ml. on the S. S.
N 45 E	3	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. pass a Bar
N 12 E	1/2	Ml. on L. S. Camped
	11 1/4

July 4th.. Wednesday,—

ussered in the day by a discharge of one shot from our Bow
piece, proceeded on, passed the Mouth of a (1) Bayeau
l[e]ading from a large Lake on the S. S. which has the appearance
of being once the bend of the river & reaches parrelel for
Several Miles Came to on the L. S. to refresh our selves &.
Jos. Fields got bit by a Snake, which was quickly doctered
with Bark by Cap Lewis[63] (2) Passed a Creek 12 yds. wide
on L. S. comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within
200 yards of the river, as this Creek has no name, and this
being the 4th.. of July the day of the independance of the
U S. call it 4th of July 1804 Creek, we dined (on Corn)
Capt. Lewis walked on Shore above this Creek and discovered
a high Mound from the top of which he had an extensive
View, 3 paths Concentering at the moun Saw great numbers
of Goslings to day which Were nearly grown, the before
mentioned Lake is Clear and contain great quantities of fish
and Gees & Goslings, The great quantity of those fowl in
this Lake induced me to Call it the Gosling Lake, a Small
Creek & several Springs run in to the Lake on the East Side
from the hills the land on that Side verry good. (3) We came
to and camped in the lower edge of a Plain where the 2d. old

Kanzas village formerly Stood, above the mouth of a Creek
30 yds wide this Creek we call Creek Independence as we
approached this place the Prarie had a most butifull appearance
Hills & Valies interspsd. with Coops [Copses] of Timber
gave a pleasing deversity to the Senery. the right fork of
Creek Independence Meandering thro: the Middle of the
Plain a point of high Land near the river givs an ellivated
Situation. at this place the Kanzas Indians formerly lived,
this Town appears to have covd. a large Space, the Nation must
have been noumerous at the time they lived here, the Cause
of their moveing to the Kanzas River, I have never heard,
nor can I learn; war with their neghbors must have reduced
this nation and Compelled them to retire to a Situation in the
plains better Calculated for their defence, and one where they
may make use of their horses with good effect, in persueing
their enemey, we closed the [day] by a Descharge from our
bow piece, an extra Gill of whiskey.

Course & Distance, refrs. July 4th 1804

             

N. 70° W.	1	Ml. on L. S. passd. a Bayo: S. S. (1)
S. 45° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. a sml. Isd. on L. S.
N. 75° W.	1/4	Ml. on S. S.
N. 40° W.	6	Mis. on S. S. psd. a prarie & Creek (2)
N. 12° E.	2 3/4	Ms. to pt. on L. S. psd. a Sml. Isd. L. S.
N. 10° E.	2	Ms. to pt. on S. S. opsd. old vilg. (3) psd. Creek L.S.
	15

July 5th. Thursday 1804—

Set out verry early, proceeded on near the bank where the
old village stood for two miles, (swam the hors found a few
days ago) passed Some bad Sand bars, The orrigan of this
old village is uncertain M. de Bourgmont, a French officer
who Comdd. a fort near the Town of the Missouris in about
the year 1724 and in July of the Same year he visited this
Village at that time the nation was noumerous & well disposed
towards the french Mr Du Pratz must have been badly
informed as to the cane opposd. this place we have not Seen
one Stalk of reed or cane on the Missouris, he States that

the "Indians that accompanied M De Bourgmont crossed to
the Canzes Village on floats of Cane"[64]

Those people must have been verry noumerous at that time
as Mr. De B: was accompanied by 300 Warriers, 500 young
people & 300 Dogs of burthen out of this Village

The Cause of those Indians Moveing over to the Kanzis
river I have never lernt. We passed Some bad Sand bars,
Situated parrelel to each other (1) The Boat turned twice on
the quick Sand & once on a raft of Drift, No prouveable
damage the Prarie continu on the high land on the L. S.
passd a Small Creek (2) on L. S. in the first bend to the L. S.
I call Yellow Oaker [Ochre— Ed.]. Creek from a quantity of
that Mineral in a bank a little above

The river continus to fall a little. I observe great quantity
of Summer & fall Grapes, Berries & Wild roases on the banks.
Deer is not so plenty as useal, great Deel of Elk Sign. (Wind
from S. E.)

Course Distance & reffers. July 5.

             

N. 35°. E	1	Ml. on S. S. opsd. the pls. of old vilg.
S 56° E	2	Ms. to L. pt. a eddey on L. S.
East	1	Ml on L. S. Sevl. Sand bars (1)
N 18° W	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a prarie pd. (2)
North	1	Ml. on the S. S.
S. 70° E	3	Ms to pt. of will. on L. S.
	10

July 6th Friday—

We Set out early this morning, wind from the S. W.
passed a large Sand bar in the 1st.. bend to the right. (1) passed
a Small Island at the S. point. opposit the 3rd.. point we passed
a Prarie on the S. S. called Reeveys Prarie at this place the
river is confined in a verry narrow Channel Crouded by a Sand
bar from the L. Point, this Sand bar is verry bad, at the 4th..
Point from the S. S. is a verry extensive bar, at the Point of
which is a Small Willow Island, this is called the Grand Detour
of [or] Great bend (great bend is higher up)

I walked on this Sand bar and found the Sand was light,
with collection of Small pebble, & Some Pit Coal I observe
that the men Swet more than is common from Some cause, I
think the Missouris Water is the principal Cause our hunters
Sent in 3 Bucks to day The river Still fall a little

Course Distance & reffers. July 6th

                 

N. 58° E	1	Ml. on L. S. opsd. a Sand bar
North	3	Ms. a pt. on S. S. an Isd (1)
N. 10° W.	1/4	Ml. on S. S. of Island
S. 76° E	1/2	Ml. on S. S. psd. hd. of Isld. a Sand bar
S. 60° E	1 3/4	Ml. to a Willow pt. on L. S.
N. 70° E	1 1/2	Ms. over a Sand bar L. S. op. Prarie (2)
N 50° W	1	Ms. on the L. S. pasd. a Sand bar
West	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. a Sand & (3) Isd.
	12

July the 7th.. Satturday 1804.—

Set out early passed Some Swift Water, which obliged us
to draw up by roapes, a Sand bar at the point; opposit a
butifull Prarie on the S. Side calld. (1) St. Michul, those
Praries on the river has verry much the appearence of farms
from the river Divided by narrow Strips of woodland, which
wood land is Situatd. on the runs leading to the river. passed
a Bluff of Yellow Clay above the Prarie. Saw a large rat on
the bank.[65] Killed a Wolf, at 4 oClock pass a verry narrow
part of the river water confd. in a bend not more than 200
yards wide at this place the Current runs against the L. Side,
No Sand to Confine the Current on the S. S. passed a Small
sand Island above, the Small Islds. Situated at the points, in
low water forms a part of the Sand bars makeing out from those
points Incamped on the S. S. at 7 oClock a violent Ghust
of Wind from the N. E with Some rain, which lasted half an
hour (G D. informs me that he Saw in a Pond on the S. S.
which we passed yesterday, a number of young Swans, one

man verry sick, Struck with the Sun, Capt. Lewis bled him
& gave Niter which has revived him much

Course Distance & reffrs. July 7th

                   

N. 40° E.	2	M. on the S. pt. over a Sand bar.
N 76° E	3	Ms. to a pt. on the L. S. a Sd. bar.
N. 50° E	1 3/4	Ms. to a prarie on S. S. (1)
N. 30° W	1	Ml. on the L. S. a Bluff on S. S.
N. 76° W	1/4	Ml. on the L. S.
S. 66° E	2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. a Sand bar
N. 74° W	1 1/2	Mls.. on the S. S. opsd. a yellow cliff
N. 45° E	1/2	Ml. on the S. S.
N. 70° E	2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. a Sand bar
	14

July the 8th.. Sunday 1804

Set out early passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and two
(1) Small Islands on the S. S. five men Sick to day with a
violent head ake &c. We made some arrangements as to
provisions & Messes, Came to for Dinner at the lower point
of a very large Island Situated near the S. S. after a delay of
two hours we passed a narrow Channel of 45 to 80 yds wide
five miles to the Mouth of (3) Nadăwā [now Nodaway] River,
This river Coms in from the North and is navagable for Perogues
Some distance. it is about 70 yards wide a little above
the mouth, at the mouth not so wide, the mud of the Gut
running out of the Missourie is thrown and Settles in the
Mouth half a mile higher up this Channel or gut is the upper
point of the Said Island, This Island is Called Nadawa, & is
the largest I have Seen in the river, containing 7 or 8000 acres
of Land Seldom over flowed we Camped at the head of this
Island on the S. S. opposit the head of our Camp is a Small
Island near the Middle of the river, river Still falling. our
flank party did not join us this evening

Course Distance & Refrs. July 8th

                                       

N. 28°. E 1	Ml on L. pt.—a Sand bar
N 10. W 1 1/2	Ms. to Low pt. of Little Nadawa 1sd. S. S.
N. 25. w. 3	Ms. to a pt. on on L. S. passd. 2 1sds. (1)
N. 56. W. 1 1/2	Ms. to L. pt. of Big Nadawa 1sd. (2)
West 1/4	Ml. on the left of the Island
S. 10°. W 1/4	Ml. to pt. on the S. S.
N. 25. W 1/4	Ml. on pt. on the Island
N. 40. W 1/4	Ml. to a bend on the on the S.S.
N. 70. W 1/2	Ml. to do do do S.S.
S. 70. W 1/4	Ml. to do do do Island
N. 82. W 1/2	Ml. to do do do do
N. 42. W 1/2	Ml. to do do do S.S.
S. 50. W 1/2	Ml. to do do do Island
N 60. W 1/4	Ml. to do do do do
N 18. W 1/4	Ml. to do do do S.S.
N 38. W 1/2	Ml. to do do do S.S.
S 20. W 1/2	Ml. to do do at the Mo. of Nadawa (3)
S 15. W 1/4	Ml. to do do do Island
S 80. W 1/4	Ml. to do on S. S. opsd. the head of Isd.
12 1/4

[Orderly Book; Lewis:]

Detatchment Orders.
Nadawa Island July 8th. 1804.

In order to insure a prudent and regular use of all provisions
issued to the crew of the Batteaux in future, as also to provide
for the equal distribution of the same among the individuals of
the several messes, The Commanding Officers do appoint the
following persons to recieve, cook, and take charge of the provisions
which may from time to time be issued to their respective
messes, (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergt. Floyd's mess,
William Warner to Sergt. Ordway's Mess, and John Collins
to Sergt. Pryor's Mess.

These Superintendants of Provision, are held immediately responsible
to the commanding Officers for a juducious consumption
of the provision which they recieve; they are to cook the
same for their several messes in due time, and in such manner
as is most wholesome and best calculated to afford the greatest
proportion of nutriment; in their mode of cooking they are to

exercise their own judgment; they shall allso point out what
part, and what proportion of the mess provisions are to be consumed
at each stated meal (i. e.) morning, noon and night; nor
is any man at any time to take or consume any part of the mess
provisions without the privity, knowledge and consent of the
Superintendant. The superintendant is also held responsible
for all the cooking utensels of his mess. in consideration of
the duties imposed by this order on Thompson, Warner, and
Collins, they will in future be exempt from guard duty, tho
they will still be held on the royster for that duty, and their
regular tour shall be performed by some one of their rispective
messes; they are exempted also from pitching the tents of the
mess, collecting firewood, and forks poles &c for cooking and
drying such fresh meat as may be furnished them; those duties
are to be also performed by the other members of the mess.

[Clark:]

July 9th. Monday 1804—

one man Sent back to the river we passed last night to Blase
[notch] a tree with a View to notify the party on Shore of our
passing Set out and passed the head of the (1) Island which
was Situated opposit to our Camp last night a Sand bar at the
head (2) opsd. this Island a Creek or Bayaue coms in from a
large Pond on the Starboard Side, as our flanking party saw
great numbers of Pike in this Pond, I have laid it down with
that name anex'd, at 8 oClock the wind Shifted from the
N. E. to S. W. and it commenced raining. (3) at Six Miles
passed the mouth of Creek on the L. S. called Monter's [Montain's]
Creek, about two mile above is some Cabins where
our Bowman & Several frenchmen Campd. two years ago[66]
(4) passed an Island on the S. S. in a Bend of the river opposit
some Clifts on the L. S. the Wind Shifted to the N W
opposit this Island and on the L. Side, (Loup) or Wolf River
coms in, this river is about 60 yards wide and heads with the

waters of the Kansis, and is navagable for Perogues "Some
distance up" Camped at a point on the L. S. opposit the
head of the Island, our party was incamped on the Opposit
Side, their not answering our signals Caused us to Suspect
the persons Camped opposit to us was a War party of Soux,
we fired the Bow piece to alarm the party on Shore, alled
prepared to oppose if attacted

Course Distance & Refrs. July 9th 1804

         

N. 60° W 1 1/2	Ms. to up. pt. of Isd. psd. a Creek S S (1) (2)
S 20° W 3 1/2	Ms. to up. pt. S. S. psd. pt. & Sand bar S. S.
N 82° W 3 1/2	Ms. to pt. S. S. psd. sand, & a Creek L. S. (3)
N 68° W 5 1/2	Ms. to pt. L. S. pad. Wolf R. L. S. opsd. Isd. (5)
14

July 10th.. Tuesday 1804 —

Set out early this Morning and crossd. the river with a view
to See who the party was that Camped on the other Side, we
soon discovered them to be our men, proceeded on passed a
Prarie on the L. S. at 4 Miles passed a creek L. S. called
(1) Pappie [Pape's Creek] after a man who killed himself at its
mouth, this Creek is 15 yds wide (2) Dined on an Isld. called
de Salamin [Solomon's Island]. Delayed 3 hours on this Island
to recruit the men opposit on the L. S. is a butifull bottom
Plain of about 2000 acres (3) covered with wild rye & Potatoes
[ground apple pomme de terre],[67] intermix't with the grass,
We camped on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift, Capt.
Lewis killed to young Gees or Goslings this evening. The
men of the party getting better, but much fatigued. The river
on a stand. The bottom is verry extensive on the S. S. and
thickly intersperced with Vines.

The High Land approaches near the river on the L. S. and
well timbered next to the river, back of those hills the Plains
commence.

Course Distance & refrs. July 10th

           

N. 80°. W. 3 1/4	Ms. to pt. S. S. passd. a Sand bar
N 19° E. 2	Ms. to pt. L. S. psd. a Creek (1)
North 3/4	Ml. to Low pt. of an Isld. (2)
S. 80° W. 3/4	Ml. to pt. on Left of an Isd. opsd. Pra (3)
N 50 W. 1 1/4	Ms. to pt. on L. S. passed Sd. bar
N 83 W. 2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. Isd. (5)

July 11th Wednesday 1804—

Set out early passed a Willow Island (1) in a bend on the
S. S. back of this Island a Creek coms in called by the
Indians Tar-ki-o I went on Shore above this Creek and
walked up parrelel with the river at about half a mile distant,
the bottom I found low & Subject to over flow, Still further
out, the under groth & vines wer So thick that I could not
get thro: with ease after walking about three or 4 miles I
observed a fresh horse track where he had been feeding I
turned my course to the river and prosud the track and found
him on a Sand beach This horse Probably had been left by
Some party of Otteaus hunters who wintered or hunted in this
quarter last fall or Wintr. I joined the party on a large Sand
Island imedeately opposit the mouth of Ne Ma how [Němǎhāw]
River, at which place they had Camped, this Island is
Sand about half of it covered with Small Willows of two different
kinds, one narrow & the other a Broad Leaf. Several
hunters sent out to day on both Sides of the river, Seven Deer
killed to day, Drewyer killed six of them, made some Luner
observations this evening.

Course Distance & refrs. July 11th..

       

N. 30° W 3	Ms. to the head of a Willow Isd. (1) in a bend to S. S.
West 2 3/4	Ms. to Lowr. pt. of a Sand Isld. on the S. S. psd. pt. S. S. (2)
North 1/4	Ml. on the N. Side of Isd. & Camped.
6 Miles

July 12th Thursday 1804—

Concluded to Delay here to day with a view of takeing equal
altitudes & makeing observations as well as refreshing our men
who are much fatigued. after an early Brackfast I with five
men in a Perogue assended the River Ne-Ma-haw about three
[2] Miles to the Mouth of a Small creek on the Lower Side,
here I got out of the Perogue, after going to Several Small
Mounds in a leavel plain, I assended a hill on the Lower Side,
on this hill Several artificial Mounds were raised, from the
top of the highest of those Mounds I had an extensive view
of the Serounding Plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing
prospect I ever beheld, under me a Butifull River of
Clear Water of about 80 yards wide Meandering thro: a leavel
and extensive meadow, as far as I could See, the prospect
much enlivened by the flew Trees & Srubs which is bordering
the bank of the river, and the Creeks & runs falling into it,
The bottom land is covered with Grass of about 4 1/2 feet high,
and appears as leavel as a smoth surfice, the 2d bottom [the
upper land] is also covered with Grass and rich weeds & flours,
interspersed with copses of the Osage Plumb, on the riseing
lands, Small groves of trees are Seen, with a numbers of Grapes
and a Wild Cherry resembling the common Wild Cherry, only
larger and grows on a small bush on the tops of those hills
in every direction, I observed artifical Mounds (or as I may
more justly term graves) which to me is a strong evidence
[indication] of this Country being once thickly Settled. (The
Indians of the Missouris Still keep up the Custom of Burrying
their dead on high ground) after a ramble of about two miles
about I returned to the perogue and decended down the river,
gathd. Som grapes nearly ripe, on a Sandstone Bluff about 1/4
of a Mile from its mouth on the Lower Side I observed some
Indian Marks, went to the rock which jucted over the water
and marked my name & the day of the month & year. This
river heads near one of the (see note) villages of the Pania
[Pawnee] on the River Blue [Blue River], a branch of the
Kansas River. above this river about half a mile the Prarie
comes to the Missouri, after my return to Camp on the Island

completed Som observations. Tri[e]d a man (W. C.) for
Sleeping on his Post & inspected the arms amunition &c. of
the party found all complete, Took Some Luner Observations,
three Deer killed to day.

Latd. 39° - 55′ - 56″ N.

[Orderly Book; Lewis :]

Camp New Island July 12th. 1804.

A Court ma[r]tial consisting of the two commanding officers
will convene this day at 1 OCk. P.M. for the trial of such
prisoners as may be brought before them; one of the court
will act as Judge Advocate.

[Clark:]

The Commanding officers, Capts. M. Lewis & W. Clark
constituted themselves a Court Martial for the trial of such
prisoners as are Guilty of Capatal Crimes, and under the rules
and articles of War punishable by Death.

Alexander Willard was brought foward Charged with "Lying
down and Sleeping on his post" whilst a Sentinal, on the Night of
the 11th Instant" (by John Ordway Sergeant of the Guard)

To this Charge the prisoner pleads Guilty of Lying Down,
and Not Guilty, of Going to Sleep.

The Court after Duly Considering the evidence aduced, are
of oppinion that the Prisoner Alexdr. Willard is guilty of every
part of the Charge exhibited against him. it being a breach
of the rules and articles of War (as well as tending to the probable
distruction of the party) do Sentience him to receive One
hundred lashes, on his bear back, at four different times in equal proportion.
and Order that the punishment Commence this evening
at Sunset, and Continue to be inflicted (by the Guard)
every evening untill Completed

[Clark:]

July 13th.. Friday 1804—

Set out at Sun rise, and prosd. on under a gentle Breeze, at
two Miles passed the mouth of a Small river on the S. S.
called by the Indians Tar-ki-o,[68] a channel running out of the
river three miles above (which is now filled up with Sand)
runs into this Creek and formed a Island Called Sd. Josephs
Several Sand bars parralel to each other above. In the first
bend to the left is Situated a Butifull & extensive plain, cover'd
with Grass resembling Timothy except the Seed which resembles
Flax Seed, this plain also abounds in Grapes of
defferent kinds Some nearly ripe, I Killed two Goslings
nearly Grown, Several others Killed and cought on Shore,
also one old Goose, with pin fethers, she Could not fly. at
about 12 Miles passd. a Island Situated in a bend on the S. S.
above this Island is a large Sand bar Covered with willows,
The wind from the South, Camped on a large Sand Bar
makeing out from the L. Sd. opposit a high handsom Prarie,
the hills about 4 or 5 Miles on S. S. this plain appeard extensive,
the Clouds appear to geather to the N. W. a most
agreeable Breeze from the South (I walked on Shore on the
S. S. the lands are low Subject to overflow)

Last night at about 10 oQock a Violent Storm of wind
from the N. N. E which lasted with Great violence for about
one hour, at which time a Shower of rain Succeeded.

Course Distance & Reffrs.. July 13th

                 

N. 8° E. 1	Ml. to pt. on S. S. psd. Sd. Isld.
N. 28° E 3 1/2	Ms. to pt. on L. S. psd. Riv. & Isd. (1)
S 70° W 3	Ms. to pt. on S. S. opsd. a prarie (2)
N. 46° W. 1 1/2	Ml. on S. S. opsd. the Prarie & a Hill
N. 30° W. 1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S.
N. 45° W. 4 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. an Isd. (3)
N. 66° W. 3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S.
N. 8° W. 2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. a Sand Isd.
20 1/2 Miles

The men on Shore did not join us this after noon. The
river nearly on a Stand the high lands on the S. S. has only
been seen at a Distance above the Nordaway River, those on
the L. S. approaching the river at every bend, on the Side
next to the river well timbered, the opsd. Side open & the
Commencmt. of Plains.

July 14th Satturday 1804—

Some hard Showers of rain this morning prevented our
Setting out untill 7 oClock, at half past Seven, the atmispr.
became Sudenly darkened by a black and dismal looking
Cloud, at the time we were in a Situation (not to be bettered,)
near the upper point of the Sand Island, on which we lay, and
the opposit Shore, the bank was falling in and lined with snags
as far as we could See down, in this Situation the Storm
which passd. over an open Plain from the N. E. Struck the our
boat on the Starbd. quarter, and would have thrown her up on
the Sand Island dashed to pices in an Instant, had not the
party leeped out on the Leward Side and kept her off with
the assistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the Storm was
over, the waves washed over her windward Side and she
must have filled with water if the Lockers which is [had not
been—Ed.] covered with Tarpoling & threw of the Water &
prevented any quantity getting into Bilge of the Boat In this
Situation we Continued about 40 Minits. when the Storm
Sudenly Seased and the river become Instancetaniously as
Smoth as Glass.

The two perogu[e]s dureing this Storm was in a Similar
situation with the boat about half a mile above. The wind
shifted to the S. E. & we Sailed up passed a Small (1) Isld
Situated on the S. S. and Dined & continued two hours, men
examine their arms about a Mile above this Island, passed a
Small Tradeing fort on the S. S. where, Mr. Bennet of St. Louis
Traded with the Otteaus & Panis two years. I went on
Shore to Shoot Some Elk on a Sand bar to the L. S. I fired
at one but did not get him, Went out into a large extensive
bottom the greater part of which over flows, the part that
dose not over flow, is rich and well timbered, Some Small

open Praries near the hills, the Boat passed the lower part
of a large Island Situated on the S. S. above the Lower
point of this Island on the S. S. a (2) large Creek Coms into
the river called by the Maha's [Mahar] Indians Neesh-nah-ba-to-na
(Neĕsh-năh-bă-to-na) 50 yds. this is a Considerable
Creek, nearly as large as the Mine River, and runs parrilel
with the Missouri, the Greater part of its course. In those
small Praries or Glades I saw wild Timothy, lambs-quarter,
Cuckle burs,[69] & rich weed. on the edges Grows Sumr. Grapes,
Plum's, & Goose berries. I Joined the boat which had Came
to and Camped[70] in a bend opposd. the large Island before mentioned
on the L. S. Several men unwell with Boils, Felons,
&c. The river falls a little.

Course Distance & Reffers. July 14th

           

N. 70°. W.	2	Ms. to a point on S. S. a Sml. Isd. S. S. (1)
N. 22°. W	2	Ms. to a pt. L. S. wind Shift N. W. by N.
N. 30° W.	1	Ml. on the L. S.
N. 50 W	2 1/2	Ms. to Lowr. pt. of an Isd. S. S.
N. 87 W	1 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. Side of Isd. psd. a Creek (2)
	9

July 15th.. Sunday—

a heavy Fog this morning prevented our Setting out before
7 oClock, at nine I took two men and walked on the L. S.
I crossed three butifull Streems of running water heading in
the Praries on those Streem the lands verry fine covered with
pea vine & rich weed the high Praries are also good land
Covered with Grass entirely void of timber, except what grows
on the water, I proceeded on thro those praries Several
Miles to the Mouth of a large Creek on the L. S. called (?)
[Little] Nema har this is a Small river, about 100 yds.. above
the Mouth it is 40 yards wide, at the mouth (as all other
Creeks & rivers falling into the Missourie are) much narrower
than a little distance up. after continueing at the mouth of

this Creek about an hour, I swam across and proceeded on
about 3 miles and halted to waite for the boat, which was some
distance below. In all this days march thro woods & Praries,
I only Saw three Deer & 3 fawns. I had at one part of the
Prarie a verry extensive view of all the Countrey around up
and down the river a Considerable distance, on the Larbd. Sd.
one continued Plain, on the S. S. Some timber on the bank of
the river, for a Short distance back of this timber is a bottom
Plain of four or five miles back to the hills and under the
hills between them & the river this plain appeared to extend
20 or 30 miles, those Hills have but little timber, and the
Plain appears to Continue back of them. I saw Great quantities
of Grapes, Plums of 2 kinds, Wild Cherries of 2 Kinds,
Hazelnuts, and Goosberries.

We Camped in a point of woods on the Larboard S. opsd. a
large Island.

Course Dists. & refrs.. July 15th 1804

                 

N. 30° W	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on a Willow Isd. on the L. S. passed the head of the large Isd. on S. S. (1)
N. 70° W	1/4	of a Ml. to L. pt. on Sd. Isd. the boat Passed to the L. S. Hills projects to river
N. 89 W.	1/4	of a ml. to a pt. of Sd. Isld.. the Hills here leave the river.
N. 88° W.	1/4	of a Mile to a pt. on main Shore L. S. opposit a Sand bar. took Medn. altd. ☉ L. L.
West	1 1/4	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opposit to which the hills again touch the river.
N 45° W.	1 1/2	Ms. to the Mouth of Ne-ma-har creek in a bend to L. S. (2) opsd. Low pt. of Sd. bar.
N. 30° E	2	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. a Deep bend to the right below the pt.
N. 15° E.	3/4	Ml. to the lower pt. of a Isd east of this Isd. is Said to be a Pond.
	9 3/4

July 16th.. Monday 1804—

Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on under
a gentle breeze from the S passed the upper point of the
Island, an extensive Prarie on the L. S. passed a large (1)

Island Called Fair Sun Isd. a Small Willow Isld. at the lower
point on the L. S., the boat passd. on the L. S. of those
Islands Several Small Sand Islands in the Channel, the Boat
run on the point of a Snag, (2) passed a place above the
Island, L. S. where about 20 acres of the hill has latterly
Sliped into the river, above a clift of Sand Stone for about two
miles, the resort of burds of Different kinds to reare their
young. (5) Passed a Willow Island in a Deep bend to the
S. S. opposit the river is about two miles wide, and not verry
Deep as the Snags may be Seen across, scattering, passed
the Lower point of an Island called by F, Chauvin [Chauve
Island][71] Situated off the L. Point opposit an extensive Prarie
on the S. S. This Prarie I call Ball [Bald—Ed.] pated
Prarie, from a range of Ball Hills parrelel to the river & at
from 3 to 6 miles distant from it, and extends as far up &
Down as I can See. We Camped in a point of Woods on
the S. S. above the Lower point of the Island, river falling.

Course Distance & refr. July 16th..

                                 

N. 70°. W.	1/2	a Ml. to a pt. on the left of the Isd. opposd.
N. 35°. W.	1 1/2	Ms. to a bend L. S. in Prarie opsd. hd. of Isd.
N. 30°. E.	1	Ml. to to the Lowr. pt. of Wil: Isd. off L. pt. (1)
N. 40°. W	1/4	Ml. to pt. on sad. Island
N. 30°. W.	2	Ms. to a pt. S. of a Sm. Isd. on S. S. psd. pt. L. S.
N. 15°. E.	1 1/2	Ml. to pt. of Good Sun Isd. psd. W Isd. (2)
N. 35°. W.	1/2	Ml. to L. S. Sm: W: Isd. psd. a Sm. W: Isd. (3)
N. 15°. W	3/4	Ml. on L. S. High Land Ner. Shore
N. 38°. W	3/4	Ml. to pt. Left of Isd. psd. Sm. W: Isd. L. S.
N. 54°. W	3/4	Ml. to pt. Sm. W. Isd. on the Sd. of the Isd.
N. 38°. W	3/4	Ml. to pt. L. S. took Mdn. altd. Lat. 40°: 20′- 12".
N. 52°. W	1/2	Ml. to pt. of the Isd. opsd. High Land.
N. 50°. W.	1 1/4	Ms. to pt. on L. S. above hd. of Isd. (4)
N. 58°. W.	2	Ms. to pt. on S. S. psd. Sand Stone Clifts
North.	1/4	Ml. on the S. point
N. 40° E.	6	Ms. to the upr. pt. of a wood in the bend to the S. S. above the Lowr. Point of a Isld. L. S. a prarie. above & Som ball Hills at abt. 4 Ms. (I calld. Ball Hill Prarie)
	20 1/4

July 17th.. Tuesday 1804 Bald pated Prarie—

We concluded [to] lay by at this place to day to fix the
Lattitude & Longitude of this place (to Correct the cronometer
run down Sunday) Several men out by day light hunting,
Capt. Lewis concld. to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na
Creek which passes under the ball hills near this place and at
one place a little above this Camp is within 300 yards of
the Missourie on this Creek grows Some few trees of oake
Walnut & Mulberry.

I took Meridean altitude of ☉ L. L. (43° 27") which made
the Lattitude 40°–27′– 5″–4/10 North. Wind from the South
E. Several of the party much inflicted with tumers of different
kinds, Som of which is verry troublesom, and dificcelt to cure.
Capt. Lewis returned in the evening, he Saw Som handsom
Countrey, & Says that the aforesaid Creek is rapid muddy and
running. This Creek which [where he saw it] is at 10 or 12
from its mouth, within 300 yds. of the river [Missi.] is at least
25 [16] foot Lower than the river.[72] The high Lands from
our Camp in this Bald Pated Prarie bears N 25° W. up the R.

Took equal altitudes

     

A. M. 7 h - 10 m - 8s	P. M. 4 h - 4 m - 38
" - 15 - 28	" - 6 - 3
" -52 -55	" - 7 - 24

Altitude 69° - 36′ - 00″
Took Suns Azmoth, with Comps. & Sextent & Time

         

		Ist.. Set
Comps.		altid.		Time
N. 85° W.	=	28° . 51′ . 45″.	=	h5. m23. s10
		2d. Set.
N. 84° W.	=	26° - 35′ - 30″	=	5 - 59 . 20

observed the Moon ☾ & Spica * Star West

                 

Made	Time			distance
	8 - 53 - 11	.	.	41° - 50′ - 00″
	" - 59 - 0	.	.	" - 53 - 15
	9 - 2 - 58	.	.	" - 54 - 0
	" - 5 - 49	.	.	" - 55 - "
	" - 8 - 2	.	.	" - 56 - "
	" - 15 - 24	.	.	" - 57 - "
	" - 21 - 10	.	.	" - 58 - "
	" - 25 - 18	.	.	42 - 0 - 0

The Common Current taken with a Log runs 50 fathem in
40"—Some places much Swifter, in 30" and even 20 Seconds
of time, five Deer Killed to day

July 18th.. Wednesday 1804—

a fair morning the river falling fast. Set out this morning
at Sun rise under a Gentle Breeze from the S E. by S passing
over the Prarie, at about 3 Miles we passed the head of the
Island L. S. called by the French Chauve or Bald pate opposit
the middle of (1) this Island the creek on the S. S. is nearest
the river. In high water an Island is formed in the bend
above the last (2). Measured the Current and found that in
forty one Seconds it run 50 fathom but little timber is to be
Seen except in the Low points on Islands & on creeks, the
Groth of timber is generally Cotton Mulberry Elm Sycomore
&c. &c. passed a Island on the 2d. point to the S. S. opposit
the water (3) when high passes out in the Plain, oppsed this
Island on the L. S. the hills jut to the river (4) this Hill has
Sliped from the top which forms a Bluff above & 200 foot
above the water, about 3/4 of a mile in length & about 200
feet in Depth, has Sliped into the river, it is Composed of
Sand Stone intermixed with an indiffert. Iron ore near the
bottom or next to the water is a Soft Slate Stone, Some
pebble is also intirmixt. We passed a verry bad Sand bar and
incamped on the L. S. at the lower point of the Oven Islands
& opposit the Prarie, Calld. by the french Four le tourtere
[Baker's Oven]. Saw a Dog nearly Starved on the bank, gave
him som meet, he would not follow, our hunters killed 2
Deer to day.

Course distance & reffers. July 18th

                   

N. 28°. W.	3 3/4	Ms. to a Curve in the bank passed a bend of the Isd. (& Several Sand bars (1)
S 28°. W	3 3/4	Ms. to pt. on S. S. psd. the head of the Isd. on L. S. (one back in bend (2)
S. 32°. W.	1/2	Ml. on S. pt. psd. a Sand bar
S. 88°. W	1/4	Ml. on S. S. Wind S. W.
N 55°. W	1/4	Ml. on S. S.
N. 48°. W	2 1/2	Mls.. to a pt. on L. S. ps4. a Sand bar L. S.
N 64°. W	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. low banks on L. S. (2) an Isd. S. S. (3)
N 50°. W	3	Ms.. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. a red bank on L. S. Some Iron (4)
N. 8°. E	1 1/2	Mls. to pt. on L. S. opsd. a Small Isld. in the river one (above (5)
	18

The Creummoter too Slow 6 minits 51 seconds & 6/10 altitude of
the North Star * last night at 10 h - 23 m - 18 s was 81° - 9′ - 15″.

July 19th Thursday 1804—

Set out early passed between two small Islands, one in the
Middle of the river, the other close on the L. S. opposit a
prarie S. S. called (1) by the french Four le tourtre. The Bakers
oven Islands, passed (2) Some high clift 4 1/2 Miles above
the Islands on the L. S. of yellow earth passed Several Sand
bars, that [were] wide and at one place verry Shallow (two
Small butifull runs falls into the river near each other at this
Clift, a Deer Lick 200 yards up the Lowest of those runs
head at no great distance in the plains and pass thro: Scirts
[skirts] of timber to the river. In my walk on Shore I found
Some ore in the bank above those runs which I take to be
Iron ore. (3) at this place the Side of the hills has sliped
about half way into [the river for 3/4 of a Mile forming a Clift
from the top of the hill above. In the first bend to the right
passed a Small Island a Sand bar opposit, worthey of remark
as We approach this great River Platt the Sand bars much
more numerous and the quick or moveing Sands much worst
than they were below at the places where Praries approach the
river, it is verry wide those places being much easier to wash
& under mine than the Wood Land's'. (4) passed a Willow

Isd. situated near the middle of the river, and a large Sand
makeing out from the S. S. a Deep bend to the L. S. we
camped at the head of this Island on the Starboard Side of it,[73]
Hunters Killed Two Deer. Saw great numbers of young
Gees, River falling a little.

Course Distance & refrs. July 19th

               

North	1/4	of a Ml to Lowr. pt. of a Isd. L. S. (I)
N 10° W	1 1/4	Ms. to pt. on L. S. sand bar psd. Isd. (1)
N. 45° W	1	Ml. on the L. S. a sand bar on S. S.
N 85° W.	2	Ms. to pt. on S. S. opsd. High land (2)
N 82° W.	3/4	Ml. to the Mo: of a run in bend L. S. (3)
N 13° W.	2 1/2	Ms to pt. L. S. psd. sliped bank (3) (a Island on S. S. a run L S.
N 54° W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. opsd. Some Clifts passd. a Wil° Isd. in a Deep bend on the L. S. a Sand bar S. S. (4)
	10 3/4

July 20th. Friday 1804—

a cool morning passed a large Willow Island (1) on the S.
S. and the mouth of Creek about 25 yds wide on the L. S.
called by the french l'Eue que [L'Eau qui] pleure, or the Water
which cry's [weeping water], this Creek falls into the river
above a Clift of brown Clay opposit the Willow Island, I
went out above the mouth of this Creek and walked the
greater part of the day thro: Plains interspersed with small
Groves of Timber on the branches, and some scattering trees
about the heads of the runs, I Killed a verry large yellow
Wolf, The Soil of those Praries appears rich but much
Parched with the frequent fires, after I returned to the Boat
we proceeded around a large Sand bar makeing out from
the L. S. opsd. a fountain of water comeing out of a hill L. S.
and affording water Sufficent to turn a mill. The Praries as
far as I was out appeared to be well watered, with small Streems
of running water Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two
Deer this evening. a verry Pleasent Breeze from the N. W
all night, river falling a little. It is worthey of observation
to mention that our Party has been much healthier on the

Voyage than parties of the same number is in any other Situation.
Tumers have been troublesom to them all.

Course distance & refrs.. July 20th..

           

N. 18°. E.	3	Ms. to a pt. on L. S. psd. a Wil: Isd. on S. S. a Creek on L. S. (1)
N. 48°. E	2 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. of an Isld. opsd. the upr pt. on 2d. Isd. which is divided from it by a narrow Chanl a Deep bend to S. S.
N. 5°. W	3	Ms. to a Lbd. pt. of an Island
North	6	Ms to the pt. of an Isd. on L. S. of sm.
N 18°. W	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on L S. high Land psd. the head of an Isd. above is a large Sand bar on L. S. (2)
	18

From this evenings encampment a man may walk to the
Pani [Pawnee] Village on the S bank of the Platt River in two
days, and to the Otteaus in one day,[74] all those Indians are
Situated on the South bank of the Platt River, as those Indians
are now out in the Praries following & Hunting the buffalow,
I fear we will not see them.

July 21st. Satturday 1804—

Set out early under a gentle breeze from the S. E. proceeded
on verry well, passed (1) a willow Island on the L. S. opposit
a bad Sand bar, Some high lands covered with timber L. S.
in this hill is limestone and semented rock of shels &c (2) in
high water the opposit Side is cut thro: by several Small
channels, forming Small Islands, a large Sand bar opposit the
Hill, at 7 oClock the wind luled and it Commns'd raining,
arrived at the lower Mouth of the Great River Platt at 10
oClock, (about 3 Ms. above the Hill of wood land) the Same
range of High land continus within 3/4 of a mile of the Mouth
below This Great river being much more rapid than the
Missourie forces its Current against the opposit Shore. The
Current of this river comes with great velosity roleing its Sands
into the Missouri, filling up its Bead & Compelling it to incroach
on the S [Nortti] Shore, we found great dificuelty in

passing around the Sand at the Mouth of this River. Capt.
Lewis and Myself with 6 men in a perogue went up this Great
river Platt about 2 [one] Miles, found the Current verry
rapid roleing over Sands, passing through different Channels
none of them more than five or Six feet deep, about 900 [600]
yards Wide at the Mouth, I am told by one of our Party
who wintered two winters on this river, that "it is much wider
above, and does not rise more than five or six feet" Spreds
verry wide [with many small islands scattered thro' it,] and from
its rapidity & roleing Sands Cannot be navagated with Boats
or Perogues. The Indians pass this river in Skin Boats which
is flat and will not turn over. The Otteaus a Small nation
reside on the South Side 10 Leagues up, the Panies on the
Same Side 5 Leagues higher up. about 10 Leagues up this
river on the S. Side a Small river Comes into the Platt Called
Salt River, "the water So brackish that it Can't be Drank at
Some Seasons, above this river & on the North Side a Small
river falls into the platt Called Elk (Horn) River this river
runs Parralal withe the Missouri, at 3 miles passed a Small
river on the L. S. Called Papillion or Butterfly C: 18 yds wide
a large Sand bar off the mouth, we proceeded on to get to a
good place to Camp and Delay a fiew days, passed around this
Sand bar: and Came. for the night on the L. S. a verry hard
wind from the N. W. I went on Shore S. S. and proceeded
up one mile thro: high Bottom land open a great number
of wolves about us this evening

Course Distance & Refrs. July 21st.

         

N. 22°. W.	3 1/2	Ms. to a pt. S. S. opposit a pt. of High land on the L. S.
N. 28°. W.	6 1/2	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. a Naked pt. & Wilw. Isl'd (1) on the L. S. & a high p on L S. (2)
N. 39°. W.	3	Ms. to a pt. on S. S. just below the Platt river passd a pt. of High Land covd. with wood L S. a Sd bar near the S. S.
N. 8°. W	2	Ms. to a point in the junction of the Platt & Missouri a verry extensive [view— Ed.] up the Platt West & Missourie North Passed many Sand bars in the Mouth Platt river
	15	Ms. to Platt.

July 22nd.. Sunday 1804.—

Set out verry early with a view of Getting Some Situation
above in time to take equal altitudes and take observations, as
well as one Calculated to make our party Comfortable in a
Situation where they Could receve the benefit of a Shade.
passed a large Sand bar opposit a Small river on the L. S. at
3 miles above Platt Called Papillion, or Butterfly Creek a
Sand bar & a Willow Island opposit a Creek 9 Ms. above the
Platt on the S. S. Called Morqueton Creek Prarie on both
Sides of the river, Came too and formed a Camp on the S. S.
above a Small Willow Island, and opposit the first Hill which
aproach the river on the L. S. and covered with timber of Oake
Walnut Elm &c. &c.

This being a good Situation and much nearer the Otteaus
town than the Mouth of the Platt, we Concluded to delay at
this place a fiew days and Send for Some of the Chiefs of that
nation, to let them know of the Change of Government the
wishes of our government to Cultivate friendship with them,
the Objects of our journy and to present them with a flag and
Some Small presents.

Some of our Provisions in the French Perogue being wet it
became necessary to Dry them a fiew days. wind hard from
N W. five Deer Killed to day. the river rise a little.

The Course & Distance from the Plate river to Camp N. 15°. W.
10 Miles, psd. 3 pts. L S. & 2 pts. S. S.