University of Virginia Library

Chapter XV

THE RAPIDS OF THE SNAKE AND COLUMBIA

XV. October 11–20, 1805

Friday 11th.. Oct. 1805.

a FAIR morning. we Set out eairly. two more
Indians with a Small canoe accompy. us. we proceeded
on passed over Some rapid water but the
current mostly gentle. about 8 oClock we came to a fishing
Camp & party of Indians, where we bought considerable
quantity of Sammon, and 8 or 10 fat dogs to eat. Some
dryed haws &c. Saw among them Some peace of fish net
which they must have come from white people. a tea kettle
made of copper Seen also &c. we proceeded on passed a
great nomber of fishing camps where the natives fish in the
Spring. the Stone piled up in roes So that in high water
the Sammon lay along the Side of the line of rocks while they
would gig them. the country is barron a high hills and clifts
of rocks on each Side of the River not even a tree to be
Seen no place. a fiew willows along the Shores Some places.
Some rapids in the River but Some of them roles high waves
but a large body of water. we roed 30 miles this day and
Camped at a fishing Camp of Indians on the S. Side where
we bought 3 or 4 more dogs and Some Sammon &c. one
Indian from an other nation came among them f[rom] falls

Saturday 12th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded
on as usal. the country continues the Same as yesterday.
Saw a nomber of old fishing Camps along the Shores. the
current Swift in Some places, but gentle in general. about

12 oClock we halted to dine on the Lard. Shore could
Scarsely find wood enofe to cook our victules. Capt. Lewis
took an Meridian observation. we then proceeded on verry
well passed Several more fishing Camps. the wind rose hard
from the west our general course west. high clifts of rocks
& high prarie on each Side. this River is verry handsom
and country pleasant but no timber at all. we Came 35 miles
this day and Camped on the Starbord Side at the head of a
bad rockey rapid which we expect is difficult to pass. the
Indians canoe and our Small pilot canoe went over this
evening. we expect that we have got past the numerous
flat head nation. only the guides who are with us they tell
us that in 2 days more we will come to another nation at a
fork which comes in on the S. Side of the Columbian River.

Sunday 13th.. Oct. 1805.

a rainy wet morning. we delayed untill about 10 oClock
A. M. then took 2 of the canoes at a time down the rapids
all the men which could not Swim went by land and carried
Some rifles & Instruments &c. we got Safe below the rapids
by 12 oClock. dined on Sammon and proceeded over Several
more rapids the wind hard a head. cleard off about 2 oC.
P. M. we Saw Several Old camps where the natives fish in
the Spring, but no timber except what they raft down a long
distance, and they Scaffel it up verry carefully. towards
evening we came to a verry rockey place in the River &
rapid the River all confined in a narrow channel only about
15 yds.. wide for about 2 mile and ran as [s]wift as a mill tale
the canoes ran down this channel Swifter than any horse could
run. a great fishery below these rapids. Saw 2 Indians Swim
their horses across the River to the N. S. and follow down
the River they have to ride fast to keep up with us for the
current mostly rapid. the clifts & hills high plains & barrons
continues on each Side of the River as usal. we Came [blank
space in MS.] miles this day, and Camped on the Stard. Side.
passed a Creek on the Lard. Side this aftr..noon.

Monday 14th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear cold morning the wind high a head & west. we
took an eairly breakfast and Set out and proceeded on. as
usal the current mostly rapid about noon we went down a
verry bad rockey rapid the worst we have passd. in this River.
three of the canoes ran fast on a Solid rock at the head of the
rapids two on at a time and was in great dangr. of being lost.
one Struck a rock in the middle of the rapids and luckily
escaped being Stove. as luck would have it we all got Safe
down. a Small Island near the Lard. Side, in the rapids we
halted a little below to dine. two Indians are rideing down
the River, and have to ride verry fast to keep up with us. we
proceeded on verry well about 8 miles then came to a rockey
rapid at the head of an Island in which one of the canoes
under charge of Sergt. ordway ran fast on a Solid rock. they
got out on the rock and attempted to Shove the canoe off the
rock, but could not Start hir for Some time. the waves
dashed over hir bow So that when we got hir loose from the
rock She filled full of water and considerable of the baggage
and bedding washed out. one of the canoes below unloaded
and went to their assistance. took out Some of the loading.
the canoe then broke away from them and left 4 men Standing
on the rock. the water half leg deep over the Smooth rock
& rappid. a canoe Shortly went and took them off the rock,
and got all to Shore except a Small brass kittle & bowl, 2
mens robes & blankets 2 Spoons, one bag of root bread one
Shot pouch & powder horn a dressed Elk Skin and Some
other Small articles. we Camped below the rapids on Sd. Island
and put out all the wet baggage to dry. we found Some wood
on the Island covered up with Stones where the natives
burryed Sammon everry Spring. wood was So Scarse that we
made use of that which was covred So carefully with Stone.
we came [blank space in MS.] miles this day. the country
continues barron. Some places broken, other places high
Smooth plains &c. Some or one of the men killed 7 or 8
ducks today.

Tuesday 15th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear cool morning. we delayed here to dry the baggage.
Some of the men went out and killed three geese & Several
ducks. about 3 oClock P. M. we loaded up the canoes and
Set out and proceeded on over Several rapids and Swift water.
passed Several Scaffels of wood where it was put up to be
Saved for the use of their fishing in the Spring, the country
continues as yesterday. we came 17 miles and Camped above
a bad rapid on a Sand bar no wood except an Indians
Scaffel we had to take Some of the wood for our use this
evening.

Wednesday 16th.. Oct. 1805.

we Set out as usal and proceeded on. Over Several bad
rapids which was full of rocks. one of the canoes Struck a
rock in a rapid and Swung on it they Stayed their untill we
unloaded and took a canoe I was on board the canoe which
Struck. the small canoes came to our assistance also. we
got the load and canoe Safe to Shore, loaded again and proceeded
on over Several more rapids then came to a verry
bad rapid, the worst or had the highest waves of any we have
yet passd. we halted above the rapid and carried considerable
of the baggage by land about a mile. then took the canoes
Safe over, and loaded up and proceeded on down Several
more rapids towards evening we arived at the forks of the
river which came from a northly direction and is larger than
this Column. R. the country around these forks is level
Smooth barron plains not even a tree to be Seen as far as our
eyes could extend a fiew willows along the Shores. we found
about 2 hundred or upwards Camped on the point between
the two Rivers. a verry pleasant place. we Camped near
them on the point. the natives Sold us eight dogs and Some
fresh Sammon. the whole band came in a body Singing in
their form to our fires and Smoaked with us and appeared
friendly. they have beeds and brass and coper in Small peaces
hanging about them, which they Sign to us that they got them
from white people on a River to the north, and Some down
about the mouth of this River. we went [blank space in
MS.] miles this day. passed Several Islands &c.

Thursday 17th. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we delay here to day for our
officers to take observations &c. the natives Sold us a nomber
more dogs and fresh Sammon &c. these Savages have but
verry. fiew buffalow Robes, but are dressed in deer & Elk
Skins. the deer Skins are dressed with the hair on and Sowed
together in robes. Some of them have red and blew cloath
and a nomber of articles which came from Some white people.
they have Some horses. they Sign to us that their is deer and
Elk below this. we Saw an emence Site of fowls on the plain
considerable la[r]ger than the prarie or haith [heath] hens.
Some of the party went out and killed 3 of them. we now
call the north fork as it is the largest the Columbian River,
and the other which we came down loose [loses] it[s] name
from Columb. and we call it after the Indian name ki-moo-e-nem.
the Columbian River is more Smooth and the current gentle
the Natives have a great nomber of canoes, and fishing camps
along the Shores. Capt. Clark and two men went up the
Columb. River in a canoe 3 or 4 miles to the Indians lodges
they Saw a vast quantitys of live Sammon in the River they
giged one which was verry larg[e] they Saw a great nomber
lay dead on [the] Shores. Some of the men killed Several
more haith hens most as large as Turkeys. we cannot find
out what nation these are as yet, but our officers gave the
principal men meddles a flag and Some other Small articles
&c. we bought in all 26 dogs from the natives this day.
these Savages are peaceable but verry poor. they have nothing
of any account to trade. a nomber of them have not any thing
to cover their nakedness, but the greater part of them have
dressed deer & Elk Some rabit Skins &c. to cover themselves.
Saw a nomber of horses on the opposite Shore. we have
lately Seen a nomber of their grave yards pickeded in &c.

Friday 18th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we delay untill after 12 oClock
today for Gapt. Lewis to complete his observations. Capt. Clark
measured the width [of the] Columbian River and the ki-moo-e-nem
found the Columbian R. to be 860 yards wide and the

ki-moo-e-nem River to be 475 yards wide at the forks. Some
of the party killed Several more haith hens about 12 oClock
we loaded up the canoes. Capt. Lewis took down Some of
three languages of these Savages, as fer as we could make them
understand. about 2 oClock P. M. we Set out only two chiefs
with us who come with us from the flat heads. we proceeded
on down the Columbia River, which is now verry wide from a
half a mile to three forths wide and verry Smooth & pleasant
the country level for about 16 miles down then the hills and
clifts made near the River, and Some Rapid places in the
River. passd. Several Islands on which was large camps of
Indians and Scaffels of abundance of Sammon. Saw the Sammon
thick jumping in the river Some dead in the R. and
along the Shore. the Latitude at the forks as taken by Capt.
Lewis and Clark is [blank space in MS.] North. we proceeded
on over Several rapids places passd. Several large Camps of
Indians which have flag lodges and abundance of Sammon, and
have a great nomber of horses we went [blank space in MS.]
miles and Saw no timber of any acct. not a tree to be Seen. we
Camped on the Lard. Side. got a fiew Small willows only to
burn. a nomber of the natives came in their canoes to See us.
they have a great nomber of Small canoes &c.

Saturday 19th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear cold morning. took an eairly breakfast. the Natives
came to See us in their canoes. brought us Some fish which
had been roasted and pounded up fine and made up in balls,
which eat verry well. about 7 oC. A. M. we Set out and proceeded
on down the R. passed high clifts of rocks on each Side
passd over Several rockey rapids. our officers gave one of the
Natives we left this morning a meddel. we passed Several Islands
on which was Indian fishing Camps. the natives all hid
themselves in their flag lodges when they Saw us comming.
the Indians are numerous the camps near each other along
the Shores the River pleasant only at the rapids which are
common we passd. over Several today but no exident hapened.
the Country around level plains except Some hills & clifts
along the Shores. we discovred a high hill or mountn along

distance down the River which appears to have Snow on it.
we went 36 miles this day and Campd. opposite a large Indian
Camp on the South Side a great nomber of the natives come
over in their canoes to see us. when any of these natives die
they deposite all their property with them. we Saw one of
their grave yards to day, even a canoe was Split in peaces and
Set up around the yard Several other art. [articles] also.

Sunday 20th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear frosty morning. we Set out eairly. passed a handsom
peace of the River the country low Smooth plains on
each Side. Saw Some pillicans, and abundance of crows &
ravens, as the Shores is lined with dead Sammon. about 12
oClock we came to a large Indian Camp on the point of a large
Island. we halted to dine. we bought Several Small articles
from the natives and Saw Some articles which came from Some
white people Such as copper kittles, red cloth Some arsh [ash]
paddles &c. we proceeded on passed a great nomber of Indian
Camps, where they had abundance of fish hung on Scaffels to
dry. passed over Several rapids to day but no exident hapened.
the country continues as usal the hunters killed 9 ducks and
a goose this day. we Come 46 miles and Camped on the
Stard. Side. no wood only a fiew Small Sticks, & green willow
&c. we Saw Some akehorns among the natives which is a Sign
of oak being in the country for they boil and eat them. we
Saw red cloth which appeared to have come from white people
this last Sommer.