University of Virginia Library

Chapter XIV

DOWN THE LOLO TRAIL

XIV. August 27–October 10, 1805

Tuesday 27th.. August 1805.

a BEAUTIFUL pleasant morning. we hoisted our
large flag. Capt. Lewis Gave the head chief a flag also
the 2[nd] chief one they hoisted them on the levil
near their lodges. Capt. Lewis then began to trade with the
natives for horses, after paying off the women who helped us
over the divideing mount. Mr. Sharbono bought one horse for
a red cloak. the natives brought up Several horses for trade.
2 hunters went out this morning to hunt with horses. the
natives caught a nomber of fine Trout which would weigh abt.
8 pound Some call them Salmon Trout. others call them real
Salmon, but they are not So red as the large Salmon. the Indian
women are mostly employed gethering a kind of Small black
Seed not So large as buck wheat, which they dry and pound or
rub between 2 Stone[s] and make a Sort of meal of it they
also dry cherries and Servis berryes & roots &c &c. for food.
they kill but fiew Deer or any wild game except when they go
down on the missourie after the buffalow. the country in
general is barron broken and mountainious. an Indian came
in with a horse load of Deer meat, which our hunters killd. our
hunters all returned towards evening had killed 4 Deer & 8 or
10 fine Salmon which they had killed with a wooden gig.
Capt. Lewis has bought 7 or 8 horses this day for a little of
different kinds of Marchandize &c, but they Seem loth to part
with any more without asking more for them. Some of them
play away whatever they git for their horses, at a game nearly
like playing butten only they keep Singing all the while and
do all by motions. more or less play at this game & loose or

win more or less they care not always appear Still peaceable
and contented, poor as they be. in the evening they had a
war dance. their women Sang with them they danced verry
well, but no So regular as those on the Missourie they tell us
that Some of their horses will dance but I have not Seen them
yet.

Wednesday 28th.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we hoisted the large flag. Several
men went a hunting and Several a fishing with Iron gigs fixed
on poles. about 9 oClock A. M. Capt. Lewis began to trade
for horses again and offered nearly double as much as yesterday.
Some Spots of Snow continues to lay on the mountain
a fiew miles to the South of us. Sergt. Gass joined us about
2 oC. and informed us that Capt. Clark & the rest of the men
were about 12 miles down the River waiting for us, but Capt.
Lewis Sent down for him to come up as we had So many
horses to pack down. Capt. Lewis has bought 5 or 6 more to
day we have now 25 in all. our hunters killed nothing this
day. in the evening 2 Indians arived at this village on horseback
from another band which were Some distance to the South
near the Spanish country. the principal men of the village all
assembled to council with them these Savages all like Salt &
eat it on meat &c.

Thursday 29th.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. about 8 oClock A. M. a nomber
of Indians arived here from the East Side of the Mountain.
they belonged to this nation but had been gone a long time
and one of the warrie[r]s had been Sculped by Some war party
in the plain. a nomber of their relation cryed aloud when they
arived in the village. Capt. Lewis bought 2 more horses.
about 11 oClock A. M. Capt. Clark & party except 2 who
Stayed to take care of the baggage arived here. they informed
us the Mountains are amazeing high and rough So that it is
impossable to follow the River down for the Steep clifts &c.
and the River So rapid and full of rocks that it is impossable
to go down with crafts, and no game of any kind. they killed
nothing but one Deer, while they were gone. they lived

Several days on Servis berrys and cherries &c. they passed a
lodge of Indians in a Small valley in the mountn. gethering
cherries & Servisses. they Started to run but our men having
a guide of their nation with them, he Spoke to them and they
were easy. these Savages had nothing to give our men but
Some of their berries. they got Some Salmon from the natives
who Stayed on the River, but Suffered a great deal with hunger.
the Natives tells us that we cannot find the ocean by
going a west course for Some of them who are old men has
been on that a Season or more to find the ocean but could not
find it, and that their was troublesome tribes of Indians to pass.
that they had no horses but would rob and Steal all they could
and eat them as they had nothing as it were to eat. the country
verry mountaineous and no game. these natives do not
incline to Sell any more horses without guns in return as they
say they must have one or the other for defence, as they could
jump on their horses & ride off and carry their children &c.
we told them they [sc. we] could not Spare any guns if we
Should git no more horses So we put up the goods & make
ready to Set out tomorrow on our way round the or between
the mountains and Strike Columbian River below if possable.
our hunters came in had caught 6 fish and killed one Deer.

Friday 30th.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we got all our horses up and
bought 3 more which makes 30 in all which we now have. we
got our loads ready. the guide which we engaged to go with
us tells us that we could go a road which would be Smooth &
leads to the Southward but we would be 2 days without water
and no game on that road. but he could Show us a hilley
rough roud [rout] over the mountains to the north of the
River which would take us in 15 days to Salt water, or in 10
days to a large fork of the River, where it would be navagable.
So we concluded to go that roud a part of these natives Set
out with their horses to go over on the Missourie after the
buffalow. about one oClock P. M. we got ready and Set out
with all our horses except 2 loaded with baggage. our hunter

killed three Deer this for[e]noon. we proceeded on down this
little River bottom crossed Several Spring runs passed Several
old camps or lodges. Came about 10 miles and Camped on
the bottom near the River.

Saturday 31st.. August 1805.

a fine morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on 2 miles
and passed Several Indian lodges where we bought a nomber
of fine Salmon. the natives have wires [weirs] fixed across the
River in which they catch more or less evverry night. a
Strange Indian came in Site of these lodges who they expected
to be one of the nation called the flat heads. he ran as Soon
as he Saw us Several of these natives followed after him. we
went on a Short distance further crossed the River and halted
for breakfast. one man out a hunting. 2 men Sent to Some
other Indian Camps, with Some articles to buy Some more
Sammon, but they had moved their Camps and we got none.
we then proceeded on over rough hills Some of them high
& Steep, deep Gullies and white earth which had been washed
down by rains &c. went about eight miles and halted to bate
our horses and dine. 4 or five of the natives follow us. Some
pitch pine on the Mountains which make near the River on
each Side. we proceeded on over a Smooth plain about 7
miles and passed along [th]e Side of a mountain near the River,
where the Stone lay one [up]on another and full of holes, So
that it is allmost impossable for horses to pass without breaking
their leggs. we then passed along the end of this mountain.
Come to a large creek which falls in on the East Side.
we followed up this creek or Spring branch. found pleanty of
wild or choke cherries and Servis berrys. one of the hunters
killed a Deer at the edge of the evening. we Came [blank
space in MS.] Miles this day and Camped at the Creek where
we had Several good Indian lodges to Sleep in this night.

Sunday 1st.. September 1805.

a fine morning we Set out as usal and proceeded on over
verry high mountains which was verry bad for our horses to
climb up and down them. passed across Several large creeks

the water of which is verry cold. considerable of pine & cotton
timber on each of those creeks. we find a great pleanty of
Servis berrys which are verry Sweet and good at this time. in
the afternoon we descended a Mountain nearly as Steep as the
roof of a house. went down in to the valley in which runs
through a large Creek. passed by a plain near the Creek a
Short distance. Camped after coming 23 miles this day &
Camped a little before night on account of its raining. Some
of the men giged Several Sammon in the creek. three men
went down to the Mo. of it to purchase Some Sammon from a
camp of Indians who Stay at the mo. of the Creek to fish. they
bought about 25 pound with a fiew Small articles. the hunters
killed a Deer and wounded two bear at dark but could not get
them. the wild or choke cherrys abound in this bottom. we
gethered and boiled Some which eat verry well. a nomber of
Indian lodges along the creek. we had 2 at camp to Sleep in.
Several Small Showers of rain this day & a little Small hail.

Monday 2nd.. Sept. 1805.

a wet cloudy morning. we loaded our horses and Set out
about 7 oClock and proceedd on. the road bad Some places
thick bushes and logs to cross. other places rockey. went
about a N. E. course up the abo. ment. Creek. Crossed Several
large Spring runs. Saw a nomber of large beaver dams, &
ponds the pine and bolsom fer timber verry pleanty and
thick up this Creek Some of the Pine is large enofe for boards
[One line in MS. illegible.]

we proceeded on through a bad thicket of tall Strait pitch
pine bolsom fer & cotton timber we were obledged to cut a
road for the horses to go and some places verry Steep and
rockey. we followed the creek up, crossed a nomber of fine
Spring branches and waided the creek a nomber of times.
the mountains on each Side of the Creek is verry Steep and
high. the bottoms on the Creek narrow and Swampy a nomber
of beaver dams. we Call this place dismal Swamp, and it is
a lonesom rough part of the Country. we were obledged to
climb Several hills with our horses, where it was So Steep and
rockey that Some of the horses which was weak and their feet

Sore they fell back 3 or 4 fell over backwards and roled to
the foot of the hills. we were then obledged to carry the loads
up the hills and then load again. one of the horses gave out
So that his load was left a little before night. we Came 13
miles this day and Camped in a thicket of pine and bolsom
fir timber near the Creek. 2 of the men came up with their
horses and loads after dark. this horrid bad going where we
came up this creek which we Call dismal Swamp was six miles
and we are not out of it yet, but our guide tells us that we will
git on a plain tomorrow. Several fessons [Pheasants] killed
this day, but no other kind of game Seen by our hunters.

Tuesday 3rd.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy. we Set out as usal after the load was brought up
which was left last night. we proceeded on up the branch a
Short distance, then took the mountains and w[ent] up and
down the mountains all day. passed and crossed an a bundance
of fine Springs and Spring runs. Some of the mountains was
So Steep and rockey that Several of the horses fell back among
the rocks and was near killing them. Some places we had to
cut the road through thickets of bolsom fer Some of that
kind of timber in the vallies of these mountains is verry high
about 100 & 60 feet, and verry Strait and handsom. the most
of them are covred with warts full of the bolsom towards
evening we crossed a dividing ridge went some distance on the
top of it which was tollarable good and Smoth going. then
passed down a Steep hill in to the head of a cove and branch
where we Camped after a dissagreeable days march of only 11
miles with much fatigue and hunger as nothing has been killed
this day only 2 or 3 fessents, and have no meat of any kind.
Set in to raining hard at dark So we lay down and Slept, wet
hungry and cold. Saw Snow on the tops of Some of these
mountains this day.

Wednesday 4th.. Sept. 1805.

the morning clear but verry cold our mockersons froze
hard. the mountains covred with Snow. 2 mountain Sheep

Seen by one of the men. we delayed untill about 8 oClock
A. M. then Set out and assended a mountain without any thing
to eat. the Snow lay on the mout. So that it kep on our
mockisons the air verry cold our fingers aked with the cold.
we [de]scended the mountain down a rough rockey way and
along through a large thicket of bolsom fer timber in which
we killed a dozen fessents then descended down in to a large
valley on a branch and halted to dine our hunter killed a
Deer. Saw fresh Indian Sign. we Eat our deer. our Indian
guide and the young Indian who accompanied him Eat the
paunch and all the Small guts of the Deer. we then proceeded
on down the valley towards evening we arived at a large
Encampment of the flat head nation which is a large band of
the nation of about 40 lodges. they have between 4 and 500
well looking horses now feeding in this valley or plain in our
view. they received us as friends and appeared to be glad to
See us. 2 of our men who were a hunting came to their
lodges first the natives Spread a white robe over them and
put their arms around their necks, as a great token of friendship.
then Smoaked with them. when Capt. Lewis and Capt.
Clark ari[ved] they Spread white robes over their Shoulders
and Smoaked with them. our officers told them that they
would Speak with them tomorrow and tell them our business
and where we are going &c. the natives are light Complectioned
decent looking people the most of them well
cloathed with Mo. Sheep and other Skins. they have buffalow
Robes leather lodges to live in, but have no meat at this time.
but gave us abundance of their dryed fruit Such as Servis
berrys cherries different kinds of roots all of which eat verry
well. they tell us that we can go in 6 days to where white
traders come and that they had Seen bearded men who came
[from] a river to the North of us 6 days march but we have
4 mountains to cross before we come on that River. our
hunters killed another Deer this evening. Came [blank space
in MS.] miles to day and pitched our Camp on the plain near
the Creek on the right of the Indians lodges. considerable of
large pitch pine in the valley.

Thursday 5th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear cold morning. the Standing water froze a little last
night. we hoisted our large flag this morning. Several men
went out a hunting. about 10 oClock our officers held a
Council with the flat head nation and told them nearly the
Same as they told other nations, only told them that we wanted
a fiew horses from them, and we would give them Some
marchandize in return. Gave 4 of their principal men meddles
made them chiefs gave each of them a Shirt and a nomber of
other articles also 2 flags &c. then told them that we could
not Stop long with them and that we were ready to purchase
their horses, and that we could not talk with them as much as
we wish, for all that we Say has to go through 6 languages
before it gits to them and it is hard to make them understand
all what we Say. these Savages has the Strangest language of
any we have ever Seen. they appear to us to have an Empeddiment
in their Speech or a brogue or bur on their tongue but
they are the likelyest and honestst Savages we have ever yet
Seen. our officers lay out Some marchandize in different
piles to trade with the natives for horses. our officers bought
twelve horses and gave a Small quantity of marchandize for
each horse. we swapped 7 horses which were lame &c. Gave
Some Small articles to boot. we bought 10 or a Dozen pack
Saddles from the natives. our hunters all came to Camp
towards evening. one of them had killed 2 young Deer and
one brarow.

Friday 6th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear cold morning. we began to pack up our baggage
and look up our horses &c. bought a nomber of lash chords
and other Small articles from the natives at 10 oClock A. M.
the natives all got up their horses and Struck their lodges in
order to move over on the head of the Missourie after the
buffalow. they make a large Show as they are numerous and
have abundance of horses. we take these Savages to be the
Welch Indians if their be any Such from the Language. So
Capt. Lewis took down the names of everry thing in their
Language, in order that it may be found out whether they are

or whether they Sprang or origenated first from the welch or not.
about noon we got ready to Set out. we have now 40 good
pack horses, and three Colts. we loaded the horses Several
men had to take 2 horses &c. 4 hunters were furnished
horses without loads to hunt constant. about 1 oClock P. M.
we Set out. the natives Set out at the Same time to go over
on the Missourie. we proceeded on our journey. crossed a
large creek went over a mountain about 7 miles came down on
the Same creek and Camped nothing to eat but a little
pearched corn. on[e] hunter Stayed out all night. light
Sprinklings of rain through the course of the day.

Saturday 7th.. Sept. 1805.

a cloudy cold morning. we Set out eairly, and proceeded
on down the creek. our hunter came up who Stayed out last
night. had lost his horse. we proceeded on over a plain.
the bottoms narrow and considerable of timber large pine and
cotton along the creek high mountains on the L. Side of the
creek which are covred with pitch pine. Some of the highest
are covred thick with Snow. one of our hunters killed 2 Deer
which revived us. Some of the hunters killed a goose & a
crain Several fessents and a hawk. Several Small Showers of
rain in the course of the day. the valley gitting wider the
creek larger. the plain Smooth and dry. the Soil verry indifferent.
we Came 18 miles this day and Camped on the
bank of the Creek. we passed Several creeks and branches
which run into the main creek this day. one of our hunters
did not join us this evening. a little rain. our course this
day is generally N. west.

Sunday 8th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy and verry chilley and cold. we Set out eairly and
proceeded on down this large creek or Small River. passed
over Smooth dry plains. no timber only along the River,
which is large pitch pine the bottoms wide. we crossed
Several creeks. Saw Snow on the Mountains to our left. high
barron hills to our right. about 11 oClock we halted to dine at

a branch our hunters all joined us. had killed an Elk and a
Deer, Which they brought with them. the wind from N. W.
chilley and cold. the Snow lays thick on the Mot. a little to
our left. we delayed and let our horses feed about 2 hours,
and proceeded on down the valley. had Several Small cold
Showers of rain & a little hail. passed over level Smooth
plains in this valley. the Mountains are rough on each Side
and are covered with pine and the tops of which are covered
with Snow. Some places appear to lay thick. one of our
hunters found & caught 2 horses and a handsom Colt. we
take them along with us though the horses are lame. we
expect that to be the reason that the natives left them in these
bottoms. we travveled 20 odd miles this day and Camped at
the Creek and Smooth bottom where was fine feed for our
horses. our hunters all joined us one of them had killed a
Deer. crossed Several branches in course of the day.

Monday 9th.. Sept. 1805

a cloudy cold morning, wind from the N. W. we Set out
as usal, and proceeded on down the valley. Smooth pleasant
plains, large pitch pine timber along the River. no timber on
the plains but they are covred with grass and wild hysop. the
Soil poor. crossed Several branches on which is pine timber,
also, a little cotton timber &c. the Snow continues on the
Mount. each Side of the valley. about 11 oClock we halted at
a branch to dine one of the hunters had killed three geese
and a wood pecker. Capt. Clark killed 4 fessents or prarie
hens. we find wild or choke cherries along the branches. we
delayed about 2 hours and a half. then proceeded on down
the valley. passed through a large bottom covred with handsom
pitch pine timber, from that a pleasant plain the remainder
of this day. the afternoon pleasant, but the Snow Still continues
on the Mountains as usal. Came about [blank space
in MS.] Miles this day and Camped on a plain near a
creek which runs in to the River about 2 ml. below. our
hunters all but one joined us had killed 3 Deer and Several
ducks this day &c. course N. W. and North all day.

Tuesday 10th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. not So cold as usal. as our road
leads over a mountain to our left, we conclu[de] our Captains
conclude to Stay here this day to take observations, and for
the hunters to kill meat to last us across the mountain and for
our horses to rest &c. Several men and all the best hunters
went out a hunting considerable of cotton timber on this
creek the choke cherries abound on its bottoms. the natives
has lately gethered an amence quantities of them here for food,
as they mooved up. considerable of Elder willow and Servis
bushes along the Creek &c. theo [though] the day is warm
the Snow does not melt on the Mo. a Short distance from us.
considerable of pitch pine on the mountains, but the Snow
makes them look like the middle of winter. the valley and
plains are pleasant. towards evening the hunters all came or
returned to Camp had killed 4 Deer 2 ducks a faun deer and
Several geese. towards evening one of the hunters went up
the creek a Short distance came across three Indians a horseback
they appeared afraid of him untill he lay down his gun
they then came up to him in a friendly manner and took him
on behind one of them and rode verry fast down to our Camp.
they belong to the nation of flat heads. 2 of our hunters was
down the River in cite of the forks to day, and allow it to be
about 15 miles down the valley. these three natives tell us
that they lay in hearing of our guns all day and was afraid to
come to us. they tell us that two of the Snake Indians has
Stole 22 of their horses, and these three are in persuit of them.
one Stayed to pilot us over the mout. the other 2 proceeded
on in order to ride all night after them, intending to git their
horses if possable. our guide tells us that these waters runs in
to Mackinzees River as near as they can give an account, but
he is not acquainted that way. So we go the road he knows.

Wednesday 11th.. Sept. 1805.

a beautiful pleasant morning. we went out to hunt up our
horses, but they were So Scattered that we could not find them
all untill 12 oClock, So we dined here. the Latitude at this

place is 46°, 48′, 28 8/10″ North. the Snow on the mountain
about 1 mile to the S. W. of us does not melt but verry
little. Some of the men who were hunting the horses detained
us Untill 4 oClock at which time we Set out and proceeded on
up this Creek Course nearly West. the narrow [bo]ttom
along this creek is mostly covred with pine timber. passed a
tree on which was a nomber of Shapes drawn on it with paint
by the natives. a white bear Skin hung on the Same tree. we
Suppose this to be a place of worship among them. Came
about 7 miles this evening and Camped on a Smooth plain
near the Creek, where had lately been a large Encampment of
Indians. Saw one house made of Earth. the pine trees
pealed as far up as a man could reach. we Suppose that the
natives done it to git the enside beark to mix with their dryed
fruit to Eat. the Choke cherries are pleanty &c.

Thursday 12th.. Sept. 1805.

a white frost, and clear pleasant morning. the hunters Set out
eairly. we loaded up and Set out soon after Sunrise, and proceeded
on a Short distance. then took the mountains covred
with pitch pine. went up and down a nomber of bad hills and
mot. crossed Several runs & about 1 oClock P. M. we descended
a bad part of the mot. nearly Steep came down on the creek
again, and halted to dine. our hunters has killed this day 4
Deer and a fessent. we proceeded on crossed 2 more creeks,
and assended a high rough mountain rockey & a verry rough
trail to follow. we proced. on along the ridge which was covred
with pitch pine timber. night came on and we had to go
through the thickets of pine and over logs &c. untill about 10
oClock at in the evening before we could git any water. then
descended a Steep part of the mountain down on the Creek
which we left at noon, and Camped on the bank of the creek
where we had Scarsely room to Sleep. Came 17 ½ miles this
day. Saw high Mountains to the South of us covred with
Snow, which appears to lay their all the year round. Scarsely
any feed for our horses.

Friday 13th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy. we got our horses up all but the one Capt. Lewis
rode and a colt which our young Indian rode. we hunted
Some time for them but could not find them. then all but 2
or three loaded the horses and proceeded on a Short distance
passed a warm Spring, which nearly boiled where it Issued out
of the rocks a Short distance below the natives has dammed
it up to bathe themselves in, and the water in that place is considerable
above blood heat. it runs out in Sundry places and
Some places cooler than others. Several of us drank of the
water, it has a little sulp[h]ur taste and verry clear. these
Springs are very beautiful to See, and we think them to be as
good to bathe in &c. as any other ever yet found in the United
States. a handsom green or Small meadow on the creek near
Sd. Springs. a little above we could not git along the Indian
trail for the timber which had been blown down in a thicket of
pine &c. So we went around a hill came on the trail again and
proceeded on untill about 11 oClock and halted to dine and let
our horses feed on the main fork of the creek where was Several
beaver dams. Capt. Lewis and the men who Stayed back
to hunt their horses joined us, but had not found them our
hunters gone on a head the mountains rough and rocks which
appear above the timber like towers in Some places. the day
proved pleasant. we proceeded on assended a high mountain,
over took the hunters. they had killed a Deer. 2 of them
Sent back after Capt. Lewis's horse. we crossed the dividing
ridge found it only about half a mile from the head Spring of
the water running East to a branch running west. each heading
on an open Swamp, which is level and full of Springs,
Came [blank space in MS.] miles this day and Camped on the
branch running west where we had good feed for our horses.

Saturday 14h.. Sept. 1805.

a cloudy morning. we eat the last of our meat, and Set out
as usal. ascended a mountain covrd with pine. abt. 4 miles
we descended it down on the Creek at a fork where it ran very
rapid and full of rocks. we then ascended a verry high mountain,
about 4 miles from the forks of the creek to the top of it

went Some distance on the top then descended it about 6 miles.
Some places verry Steep. came down at another fork of the
Creek where it was considr. larger. the Natives had a place
made across in form of our wires [weirs] in 2 places, and
worked in with willows verry injeanously, for the current [was]
verry rapid. we crossed at the forks and proceeded on down
the creek. passed Several late Indian Encampments. our
Guide tells us that the natives catch a great nomber of Sammon
along here. we went down the creek abt. 4 miles and
Camped for the night. Eat a little portable Soup, but the men
in jeneral So hungry that we killed a fine Colt which eat verry
well, at this time. we had Several light Showers of rain and a
little hail. Several claps of Thunder. we came in all [blank
space in MS.] miles this day. the 2 hunters joined us with
Capt. Lewis horse which had been lost. Saw high mountan. a
little to the South of us, which are covred with Snow. the
most of these mountains are covred with pine. Saw Some tall
Strait Siprass [Cypress] or white ceeder to day. the Soil indifferent,
and verry broken. the Countrey all mountaineous.
our hunters found a Stray horse on the road. a Small Indian
horse came to us this evening.

Sunday 15th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy. we loaded up our horses and Set out at 7 oClock,
and proceeded on down the creek a Short distance crossed
Several Springs and Swampy places covred with white ceeder
and tall handsom Spruce pine, which would be excelent for
boards or Shingles. we crossed a creek a Small pond a little
below, then assended a high mountain. Some places So Steep
and rockey that Several of the horses fell backward and roled
down among the rocks 20 or 30 feet but did not kill them.
we got on to the ridge of the mot and followed it riseing over
Several high knobs, where the wind had blown down the most
of the timber. we found a Small Spring before we came to the
highest part of the mountain where we halted and drank a
little portable Soup, and proceeded on up on the top of the
mountain, which is covred with timber Spruce &c. and Some
Spots of Snow and high clifts of rocks. it is about 10 miles

from the foot of this mountain to the top and the most of the
way verry Steep. we marched on top of this mountain untill
after dark in hopes to find water, but could not find any, So we
Camped on the top ridge of the mountain without finding any
water, but found plean[ty] of Snow, which appear to have lain
all the year we melted what we wanted to drink and made or
mixd. a little portable Soup with Snow water and lay down contented.
had come [blank space in MS.] miles to day.

Monday 16th.. Sept. 1805.

when we awoke this morning to our great Surprise we were
covred with Snow which had fallen about 2 Inches the latter
part of last night, and continues a verry cold Snow Storm.
Capt. Clark Shot at a deer but did not kill it. we mended up
our mockasons. Some of the men without Socks raped rags
on their feet, and loaded up our horses and Set out without
anything to eat, and proceeded on. could hardly See the old
trail for the Snow. kept on the ridge of the mountain Several
high knobs to pass over but had more down hill than up.
about one oClock finding no water we halted and melted Snow
and made a little more Soup, and let our horses graze 1 hour
& a half. then proceeded on the Snow is fell So fast that it
is now in common 5 or 6 Inches deep. Some places is considerable
of old Snow on the moutn.. towards evening we descended
the mountain down in a lonesome cove on a creek
where we Camped in a thicket of Spruce pine & bolsom fir
timber. all being tired & hungry, obledged us to kill another
colt and eat the half of it this evening. it has quit Snowing
this evening, but continues chilley and cold. Came about 15
miles to day over a rockey rough road. Some places bare on
the top high places of rocks &c.

Tuesday 17th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy and cold. we went out to hunt our horses, but
found them much Scatered. the mare which owned the colt,
which we killed, went back & led 4 more horses back to where
we took dinner yesterday. the most of the other horses found
Scatd. on the mountain but we did not find them all untill 12

oClock at which time we Set out and proceeded on. the Snow
lay heavy on the timber. passed along a rough road up and
down the Mountains descended down a Steep part of the
moutn.. the afternoon clear & warm. the Snow melted So
that the water Stood in the trail over our mockasons in Some
places. verry Slippery bad travvelling for our horses. we
assended verry high mountains verry rockey. Some bald
places on the top of the mountn.. high rocks Standing up, &
high precepices &c. these mouts. mostly covred with Spruce
pine & bolsom fer timber. crossed Several creeks or Spring
runs in the Course of the day Came about [MS. torn] miles
this day, and Camped at a Small branch on the mountain near
a round deep Sinque hole full of water. we being hungry
obledged us to kill the other Sucking colt to eat. one of the
hunters chased a bear in a mountn.. but killed nothing. we
expect that their is game near a head. we hear wolves howl &
Saw Some deer Sign &c.

Wednesday 18th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. Capt. Clark and Six hunters Set
out at Sunrise to go on a head to try to kill Some game if
possable. we got up all our horses except one which we expect
is lost. one man Sent back Some distance to hunt him.
we Set out about 7 oClock and proceeded on a ridge of the
mountains Some distance, then went up and down rough
rockey mountains as usal. but verry little water. about 3
oClock P. M. we halted on a ridge of the mountn.. to let our
horses feed a little, and melt a little Snow as we found no water
to make a little Port.. Soup as we have nothing else to eat. the
day moderate the Snow melts a little. the mountains appear
a head as fer as we can See. they continue much further than
we expected. we proceeded on down a verry Steep part of the
mount. then up on the side of another before we found any
water, and Campd. at dark on the Side of the motn.. where we
found a Spring by going down a Steep hill where it was dangerous
to take our horses to water. we Suped on a little
portable Soup and lay down on this Sideling mountn. Came
14 miles [to]day

Thursday 19th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal and assended
up to the top of Sd mout. and discovered a plain in a valley
about 20 miles from us where we expect is the Columbian
River. which puts us in good Spirits again. we descended
down the mountn.. which was verry Steep descent, for about
three miles. then assended another as bad as any we have ever
been up before. it made the Sweat run off of our horses & ourselves.
on the top the ground was froze a little and the ground
mostly covred with Snow. the Spruce pine & bolsom timber
continues on these motn.. as usal. Some places thick bushes.
we descd.. the mot. down in a narrow valley where we found a
run of water and halted to bate our horses and to drink a little
portable Soup. one of the men killed a fessent. their is not
any kind of game or Sign of any to be Seen in these mout.
Scarsely any birds itself. we delayed about 2 hours and proceeded
on descended the mountain about 4 miles came to a
creek running about East. we followed up the creek. a bad
peace of the road, Some places along Side of the mountn. which
is high & Steep on each Side of the creek. one of our horses
fell backward and roled about 100 feet down where it was
nearly Steep and a Solid rock & dashed against the rock in the
creek, with a load of Ammunition. but the powder being in
canisters did not git damaged nor the horse killed, but hurt.
we proceeded on. Came about 17 miles this day and Camped
at a run in Sd. mount., our course this day was generally west.
the timber continues as usal. we Suped [on] a little portable
Soup. the most of the party is weak and feeble Suffering with
hunger. our horses feet are gitting Sore and fall away in these
mountains, but we are in hopes to git out of them Soon.

Friday 20th.. Sept. 1805.

a cold frosty morning. we eat a fiew peas & a little greece
which was the verry last kind of eatables of any kind we had
except a little portable Soup. we got up our horses except
one which detained us untill about 8 oClock before we found
him. we then load up our horses and Set out. proceeded on
up the creek a Short distance and found a line which Capt. Clark

had left with the meat of a horse which they found and killed
as they had killed nothing after they left us only three prarie
hens or Phesants. we took the horse meat and put it on our
horses and proceeded on a Short distance further. then left
the creek and went over a mountain S. W. then followed
down a ridge, came to a Spring run and halted and dined
Sumptiously on our horse meat. one horse Strayed from us
which had on him a pear of portmantaus which had in it Some
marchandize and Capt. Lewis winter cloaths &c. 2 men Sent
back to the creek to hunt him. we proceeded on up and
down Several hills and followed a ridge where the timber was
fell So thick across the trail that we could hardly git along.
our horses got Stung by the yallow wasps. we did not find
any water to Camp untill after dark, and then Camped on a
ridge found a little water in a deep gulley a Short distance
from us. the different kinds of pine continues as usal. considerable
of Strait handsome timber on these ridges, which resembles
white ceeder but is called Arbervity no other kind
except the pine & bolsom fer, all of which grows verry tall and
Strait. the mountains not So high as back but verry broken.
Came about 14 miles this day. the plains appear Some distance
off yet. it is twice as far as we expected where we first
discovred it from a high mountain.

Saturday 21st.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we went out eairly to hunt up
our horses, but they were much Scatered. we did not find
them all untill about 10 oClock at which time we Set out and
proceeded on crossed a creek & went on a west course over
a hilley rough trail. on Some of the ridges the timber has
been killed by fire and fell across the trail So that we had Some
difficulty to git a long the trail. in the after part of the day
we descended down a hill & came to the forks of a creek where
it is large. we went down it a Short distance and Camped at
a good place for feed near the creek. had Come 11 miles this
day. Capt. Lewis killed a wolf. Some of the men killed a
duck and three Phesants. we caught Some craw fish in the
creek, and eat them.

Sunday 22nd.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. a white frost. we were detained
Some time a hunting our horses. about nine oClock we found
all the horses and Set out ascended a mountain and proceeded
on Came on a Smoth level clear place & a run of water.
met R. Fields who Capt. Clark Sent back to meet us with Some
Sammon and other kinds of food which they had purcd. from
Some Indians which they found Encamped about 8 miles from
this. we halted and divided out the food and eat it found it
verry good. we delayed about one hour & a half, then proceeded
on. the 2 men who had been back for the lost horse
soon overtook us. they had found the horse & portmauntaus,
and took on the horse with the one they took with them untill
last night then they lost boath of the horses. they expect
that they were Stole by Some of the natives. So they brought
the portmantaus &c. on their backs. we proceeded on over a
mountain and down in a handsome Smoth valley. ariv[ed]
at an Indian village in a delightful plain. large pitch pine
around it. these Savages was verry glad to See us the men
women & children ran meeting us & Seemed rejoiced to See
us. we Camped near [the] village at a Small branch. the
natives gave us Such food as they had to eat, consisting of
roots of different kinds which was Sweet and good also red &
black haws &c. the principal roots which they made use off for
food are pleanty. this praries are covred with them they are
much like potatoes when cooked, and they have a curious way
of cooking them. th[e]y have places made in form of a Small
coal pit, & they heat Stone in the pit. then put Straw over
the Stone, then water to raise a Steem. then they put on large
lo[a]ves of the pounded potatoes, and 8 or 10 bushels of potatoes
on at once then cover them with wet Straw and Earth.
in that way they Sweet [sweat] them untill they are cooked, and
when they take them out they pound Some of them up fine
and make them in loaves and cakes. they dry the cakes and
String them on Strings, in Such a way that they would keep a
year & handy to carry, any journey. Capt. Clark arived here
this evening, and informed us that he had been on a branch of
the Columbian River where it was navigable for canoes, and

only about 8 & half miles from this place & a good road. the
hunters Stayed at the River to hunt. one of them had killed
2 Deer at the River. the natives gave us Some excelent fat
Sammon to eat with the root or potatoe bread.

Monday 23rd.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we purchased considerable quantity
of Sammon and root or potatoe bread from the natives.
these natives are now at war with Some other nation to the
west, and the most of the warrie[r]s, are mostly gone to war,
and the women are engaged laying up food for the winter as
they tell us that they intend going over to the Missourie in the
Spring after the buffaloe &c. Some of the natives have copper
kittles, and beeds a fiew knives &c. which they tell us that
they got from the traders to the west, which must have Come
from the western ocean. they are verry fond of our marchandize.
the large blue beeds they are the fondest of but are glad
to git anything we have. a Small peace of red cloath, as wide
as a mans hand they gave as much for as they would for
double the value in any other article. our officers gave the
chiefs of this village a flag & one to the chief of the next village
about 2 miles further on our road, which they hoisted.
these natives live well are verry kind and well dressed in
mountain Sheep & deer & Elk Skins well dressed. they have
buffaloe robes but are verry choice of them. in the afternoon
we got up our horses, all except one which we could not find.
we loaded up our horses, left one man who had not found his
horse, and went down to the next village about 2 miles and
Camped. bought Some more Sammon and Some dressed Elk
Skins &c. we had a Shower of rain attended with Thunder
this evening. these Savages at this village live the Same as
those at the other village. they are numerous and talk loud
& confused. they live [with] much comfort in their villages.
Several lodges all join. the most of them have leather lodges,
and are makeing flag lodges &c.

Tuesday 24th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we went out eairly a hunting
our horses, which were Scatered all over the plain. Saw a vast

nomber of horses which belong to the natives, the most of
which are in good order and good horses in general. Saw a
nomber of Squaws digging the wild potatoes in the plains. the
Soil verry rich and lays handsom for cultivation. we loaded
up our horses. one man Sent back in the mountains to look
for the 2 horses which was lost about 8 oClock we Set out
and proceeded on. the day warm. had a fine road mostly
plain, Some Scatering large pitch pine, but little water. Several
of the men Sick, by eating hearty of the Sweet food and
Sammon. towards evening we came on the branch or fork of
Columbian River, and followed down it Some distance, and
went on a Small prarie Island and Camped. a hard rapid at
the foot of this Island which the natives tell us is the last bad
rapid in this fork of [the] River the hunters joined us with
4 Deer & 2 Sammon which they had killed. Several of the
natives followed after us and Camped with us. high hills each
Side of the River thinly covred with pine but not large enofe
for canoes, but we expect to find Some near, So that we may
leave our horses in the care of a chief and go down by water to
the ocean.

Wednesday 25th.. Sept. 1805.

a fine morning. three men out a hunting. Capt. Clark went
with a chief down the River to look for timber which would
answer for to make cannoes. the natives have Several Small
cannoes in the River one at th[is] place. this River is about
Sixty yards wide and gener[ally] deep. Some clifts of rocks
along the Shores. the natives have a fishery fixed in the River
[a] little above our Camp in which they catch large quantity
of Sammon. they went withe the canoes and took in Several
to day. they gig a great many also. towards evening Capt.
Clark returned had been down about 4 miles at a fork which
came in on the east Side. he informs us that their is Some
timber at the forks but not verry large & knotty. So we conclude
to move down tomorrow. the natives drive a nomber of
their horses from the villages to this place. the man who
Stayed at the village for his horse arived here this evening.
had got his horse by hireing Indians to git him.

Thursday 26th.. Sept. 1805.

clear and pleasant. we got up our horses and Set out about
8 oClock and proceeded on down the River crossed a creek
which came in on the East Side. then crossed the River at a
Shole place, but wide the water to the horses belleys. proceeded
on down the South Side of the River and Camped
opposite the fork which came in on the N. Side. we formed
our Camp in a narrow plain on the bank of the River. made
a pen of pine bushes around the officers lodge, to put all our
baggage in. Some of the natives followed us with droves of
horses. Some came down the N. fork whoe had been up Some
distance a fishing. had with them a Small raft which they
came on with all their baggage, Sammon &c. they ran fast on
a Shole place about the middle of the River opposite our
Camp, and came out to See us. Some Indians came down
from our last nights Camp in a canoe with Sammon &c. we
went about helving our axes and git in readiness to begin the
canoes. Several of the men Sick with the relax, caused by a
suddin change of diet and water as well as the climate changed
a little also.

Friday 27th.. Sept. 1805.

a fair morning. the party divided in five parties and went
at falling five pitch pine trees for canoes, all near the Camp.
in the afternoon the man who went back to the mountains after
the lost horses joined us had found one of the horses, & had
killed a large Deer, which he brought to Camp with him.

Saturday 28th.. Sept. 1805.

a fair morning. 2 men went out to hunt. all that were able
went at work makeing the canoes & oars. the natives visit us.
they catch a fiew fresh Sammon which we purchase from them.
we fixed Some gigs on poles in order to gig Some ourselves.
Several of the party are unwell and all takeing medicine.

Sunday 29th.. Sept. 1805.

a fair morning. all hands who were able to work are employed
at the canoes. only two who went out to hunt. about
noon the hunters Came to Camp with three Deer. which they
had killed. the natives caught a nomber of Sammon which
they Sold to us.

Monday 30th.. Sept. 1805.

two hunters Stayed out last night. a fair morning. the
Sick men are gitting Some better. we continued our work at
the canoes as usal. our constant hunter out to day. the party
in general are So weak and feeble that we git along Slow with
the canoes. our hunters returned towards evening one of
them had killed a Deer & a pheasant.

Tuesday 1st.. October 1805.

a fair morning we continued working at the canoes. built
fires on Several of the canoes to burn them out found that
they burned verry well. the hunters killed nothing this day.

Wednesday 2nd.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. two men Sent up to the villages with Six
of our horses and Some marchandize to trade for Sammon and
their kind of bread &c. we continued our work as usal at the
canoes. Some hunters out in the hills a hunting. towards
evening the hunters returned had killed nothing but one
prarie wolf, which we eat. the party are So weak working
without any kind of meat, that we concluded to kill a horse
and accordingly we did kill a horse which was in tollarable
order, and we eat the meat with good Stomacks as iver we did
fat beef in the States. we bought a fiew fresh Sammon &
Some root bread from the natives &c.

Thursday 3rd.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. we continued on our work at the canoes as
usal. Some of them forward &c.

Friday 4th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. two men out a hunting. we continue at
the canoes Some of them ready to dress and finish off. our
hunters killed nothing this day. Some of the men eat a fat
dog.

Saturday 5th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair cool frosty morning. the two men who had been at
the villages trading, returned late last night, with their horses
loaded with the root bread and a Small quantity of Sammon, a
fiew Elk Skins dressed & otter Skins for caps &c. we continue
on finishing off the canoes. got up our horses and
cropped their fore mane, and branded them with a Sturrip
Iron on the near fore Shoulder, So that we may know them
again at our return. a Chief who we Intended leaveing our
horses with has engaged to go on with us & leaves the horses
in care of his two Sons. 38 in nomber of the horses which we
delivered up in their care towards evening we put two of the
canoes which was finished in to the River. (the distance over
the mountn.. is estimated to be 160 odd miles from where we
left Flatt head River, to this place.

Sunday 6th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we continued on with the other
canoes & a carch or hole dug to berry our pack Saddles in.
we got poles & oars ready. towards evening we got the
other canoes ready to put in the water. Some gig poles prepared
&c. a raft Seen floating down the River with Several
Indians on it. one of the men killed 2 ducks. berryed the
pack Saddles and Some Ammunition &c.

Monday 7th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. we put the other three canoes in to the
River and got them in readiness and loaded them. about 3
oClock P. M. we Set out on our way to descend the River.
the 2 Indians we came over the mount. with us continues on
with us, and a chief & one more Indian who agreed to go
down with us has gone by land Some distance down, and then
Intends comming on board. we proceeded on over a nomber

of bad rapids where the canoes run fast and obledged us to git
out in the cold water and hale them off. Some places the
water is deep & current gentle for Some distance, but the
Shole rapids are common & rockey. the River hills make
close to the River on each Side. Some clifts of rocks, a fiew
Scattering pine trees on the hills, but they are mostly barron
broken & covred over with grass. Some Small cotton wood
along the Shores. Some of the rapids which are deep enofe to
run clear are So bad that we take water over the canoes by the
waves. Strike Some large rocks & Slide of [f] without Injury.
Came 21 miles and Camped on Stard. Side the officers canoe
leaks So that they changes their Baggag[e] in an other canoe
for fear of gitting the Instruments &c wet. the Evening
cloudy. one man taken Sick with the collick. we passed
Some old Indian Camps this afternoon & a Small canoe on
Shore.

Tuesday 8th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair day. we dilayed loading &c. burryed a canister of
powder [on] the Northe Side of a broken toped tree. about 9
oClock we Set out and proceeded on down the River. Saw
Some Indian horses on the Side of the hills passed over Several
bad rapids. took Some water in the canoes by the waves
dashing over the Sides. the current rapid the most part of the
way some places deep. passed clifts of rocks and bare hills
on each Side. about 12 oClock we Came to Some Indian
Camps, on the South Side, only 4 or 5 lodges of well looking
Indians & Squaws. they had Several Small canoes and catch
considerable quantitys of Sammon. we purchased Some from
them by giving them a fiew green or blue or red beeds, and
tin &c. the day warm. Some of the men bought 2 dogs
from them. they have a great many horses feeding along the
Shores and have a nomber of Small canoes. we proceeded
on a Short distance further down came to Some more Indian
Camps at the foot of an Isl. & rapids. we halted a Short time,
bought Some more Sammon and Some white roots. then proceeded
on a Short distance further down 2 chiefs came with
us. as we were descending a rockey rapids at the foot of an

Island on which was Some Indian Camps, one of the canoes
Struck a rock and whe[e]led round then Struck again and
cracked the canoe and was near Spliting hir in too. throwed
the Stearsman over board, who with difficulty got to the canoe
again, but She soon filled with water, and hang on the rocks
in a doleful Situation. Some of the men on board could not
Swim, and them that could had no chance for the waves and
rocks. an Indian went in a Small canoe to their assistance.
our little canoe went also and took out Some of the loading,
and carried it to Shore. we unloaded one of the other canoes
and went in the rapid and took the loading all out of the canoe
which was Stove and got all to Shore below the rapid, and
Camped at dark examined found everry thing wet which was
in the canoe that was Stove. Some Small articles lost. a
nomber of the natives visit us this evening. we have come
about 18 miles this day before the Sad axident hapened to us.

Wednesday 9th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. we were obledged to delay and prepare or
repair the canoe which got Stove last evening, put the loading
marchandize &c out to dry. the natives brought us Some
fresh Sammon. the River hills are high and continue barron
on each Side. a fiew Scattering pines along the Shores. but
fiew creeks puts in. the natives hang about us as though they
wished to Steal or pilfer Something from us So we had to keep
2 Sentinels to watch the Marchandize &c. we got the canoe
repaired and loaded. our officers tryed to purchase a fat horse
for us to eat but the Natives did not bring him as they promised.
in the evening we purchased a considerable quantity
of Sammon, a little bears oil or greese, Some root bread, 2
dogs &c. after dark we played the fiddle and danced a little.
the natives were pleased to see us. one of their women was
taken with the crazey fit by our fire. She Set to Singing
Indian and gave all around hir Some roots, and all She offered
had to take from hir. one of our men refused to take them
from hir. She then was angry and hove them in the fire,
and took a Sharp flint from hir husband and cut hir arms

in Sundry places So that the blood gushed out. She wiped
up the blood and eat it. then tore off Some beeds and peaces
of copper &c. which hung about hir and gave out to them that
were round hir a little to each one. Still kept hir Singing and
makeing a hishing noise. She then ran around went to the
water Some of her kindred went after hir and brought hir
back She then fell in to a fit and continued Stiff and Speechless
Some time they pored water on hir face untill She came
too. Capt. Clark gave hir Some Small things which pleased
hir.

Thursday 10th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. our 2 Indians who came with us from the
Snake nation left us yesterday. we Set out eairly and proceeded
on down Several bad rapids took in Some water in the canoes.
passed Several Indian fishing camps where we bought Some
Sammon from them they have a nomber of Small canoes
along the Shore. about 11 oClock we came to a verry bad
rockey rapid, where we halted and took one canoe over at
a time. one of the canoes ran fast on a rock Stove a hole in
hir Side with Some difficulty we got hir to Shore, unloaded
and repaired hir Some of the natives caught Some of our
oars and poles which was washed away in the rapids. we
bought some more Sammon & a dog or two. about 2 oClock
we proceeded on passed Several more fishing Camps. passed
down Some verry bad rapids which were Shallow. we had
to wade in Several rapids to hale the canoes over. about
5 oClock P. M. we arived at the forks of the Columbian
river. we proceeded on down it a Short distance and the
wind blew So high from the west that we Camped on the
Starbord Side. had come 20 miles this day & mostly a west
course a nomber of fishing camps along the Shores about the
forks. this is a large River afords a large body of water & is
about 400 yards wide, and of a greenish coulour. No timber
barron & broken praries on each Side.