University of Virginia Library

The Original Journal of Private Joseph
Whitehouse

May 14, 1804–November 6, 1805

The ORIGINAL JOURNAL OF
Private JOSEPH WHITEHOUSE[1]

Chapter I

FROM RIVER DUBOIS TO THE PLATTE

I. May 14–July 22, 1804

JOSEPH WHITEHOUSES Journal Commencing at
River deboise 14th.. May 1804. it being a Minute relation
of the various transactions and occurrences which took
place dureing a Voiage of [blank space in MS.] years from the
United States to the Pacific Ocean through the interior of the
conti[nent] of North America [*] under the directions of Capt.
Meriwether Lewis & Capt W[illiam] Clark, and patronised
by the Government of the U, States. The individuals who
composed the party engaged to essay the dificuelties, dangers
fatigues of this enterprise with the said officers; consists of
the persons whoes Names are here-unto anexed–Viz: George

Drewyer to act as Interpreter and Hunter; John Ordway,
Nath. Pryor, Charles Floyd & Patric Gass Sergts. John
Shi[elds,] William Bratten, John Colter, Hugh Hall, John
Collins, Joseph Field, Reuben Field, Silas Goodrich, Alexander
Willard, William Werner, John Potts, Thomas Procter
Howard, Peter Wiser, George Gibson, George Shannon, John
B. Thompson, Richard Windser, [Ro]bert Frazer, Hugh
Mc.. Neal, Peter Crusatt, Francis Labeech, & Joseph White[hou]se;
also Capt. Clarks Black Man York. At the Mandans
Tousant Shabono [MS. torn] Indian woman & child joined as
interpreter & interpretis to the Snake Indians. [*][2]

Monday 14th. May 1804.

hard Showers of rain. this being the day appointed by
Capt. Clark to set out, a number of the sitizens of Gotian
Settlement came to see us Start. we got in readiness. Capt.
Lewis is now at St. Louis but will join us at St. Charls. about
3 oclock P.M. Capt. Clark and the party consisting of three
Sergeants and 38 men who manned the Batteaux and 2
perogues. we fired our swivel on the bow hoisted Sail and
Set out in high Spirits for the western Expedition. we entered
the mouth of the Missourie haveing a fair wind Sailed abt. 6
miles and Camped on the North Side.

Tuesday 15th.. May 1804.

hard rain. we set out eairly. the current Swift, & water
muddy. passed Islands & Some inhabitants &c. the aftir
part of the day proved pleasant. we Camped on the North
Side.

[Wedne]sday 16th. May 1804.

a clear morning. Set out [eairly] and proceeded on verry
well. about 2 oClock P. M. [we ar]rived at St. Charls. and
passed the evening with a [gr]eat deal of Satisfaction, all chearful
and in good spirits. this place is an old french village
Situated on the North Side of the Missourie and are dressy
polite people and Roman Catholicks.

Thursday 17th.. May 1804.

a pleasant morning. we are waiting here the arival of Capt.
Lewis. the evening rainy.

Friday 18th.. May 1804.

a fair morning. we bought some acceseries &c. for the
voiage. passed the evening verry agreeable dancing with the
french ladies, &c.

Saturday 19th.. May 1804.

a rainy wet morning. Capt. Lewis and Some of the officers
from St. Louis arived here this afternoon. we made ready for
a Start &c.

Sunday 20th.. May 1804.

Several of the party went to church, which the french call
Mass, and Sore [saw] their way of performing &c.

Monday 21st.. May 1804.

Some rainy. we took on board Some more provision
bread &c. about 4 oclock P. M. we Set out from this place.
fired our bow peace and gave three cheers, and proceeded on
in good heart, about [blank space in MS.] miles and Camped
on the North Side. 2 frenchmon went back to the village.
two of our men Stayed at St. Charls in order to come on with
the horses

Tuesday 22nd.. May 1804.

a fair morning. we Set out eairly proceeded on verry well
passed canon Creek on the Stard. Side. Several Indians came
to us this evening. Gave us some venison.

Wednesday 23rd.. May 1804

a fair morning. we Set out 6 oClock A. m. and proceeded
on verry well. passed Some Inhabitants called boons Settlement.
passd. a noted [p]lace called cave tavern in a clift of
rocks on [the] South Side, which is 120 feet long 20 perpinticular
high [MS. illegible] us inspected our arms and
camped.

[Thu]rsday 24th.. May 1804

a fair morning. we set out eairly and proceeded on as usal
passd. timbred land on each Side current of the river Swift.
Camped on the South Side.

Friday 25th.. May 1804.

we Set out eairly passed a Smal river on the Stard. Side.
the Soil of this part of the country rich. towards evening we
arived at a french village called St. Johns, on the Stard. Side.
a boat came here loaded with fur & Skins—had been a long
destance up the River tradeing with the Savages &c. we
Camped near this Small village this is the last Settlement of
white people on this River.

Saturday 26th.. May 1804.

a fair morning. we Set out eairly some Thunder and
rain. towards evening. we passd. a creek called otter Creek
on the N. Side.

Sunday 27th.. May 1804.

a fair morning. we set out eairly. passed a creek called
ash Creek, on the N. Side high clifts on the South Side.
proceeded on in the afternoon we arived at the Mouth of
Gasganade River on South Side, and camped on an Island
opposite the mouth of Sd. River.

Monday 28th.. May 1804.

a pleasant morning. Several men out a hunting. the Latidude
at this place is 38°, 44′, 3.5–10ths. as I was a hunting
this day I came across a cave on the South Side or fork of a
River about 100 yards from the River. I went a 100 yards
under ground. had no light in my hand if I had, I should
have gone further their was a Small Spring in it. it is the
most remarkable cave I ever Saw, in my travels. I returnd. to
the River found the boad had gone on and had left the french
perogue for me. I called they came across for me, and went
to camp took dinner and procd on the barge had been gone
abt. 2 hours. we went about 2 miles and Camped for the
night.

Wendnesday 30th.. May 1804.

a fair morning. we set out eairly and proceeded on about
noon began to rain. we passed a creek on the S. Side called
rush creek. procd. on passed fine bottoms of timbered land on
each Side. passd. a River on N. Side called little muddy River,
and panther River on S. Side a large Island opposite the
mouth.

Thursday 31st.. May 1804.

a fair morning. we Set out as usal and proceed. on met a
perogue in which was a frenchman and 2 Indians on board.
their loading was beaver Skins and other peltry. high wind.
R. Fields killed a deer.

Friday 1st.. June 1804.

a pleasant morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on
passed a River on the N. Side called big muddy, the bottoms
low. passd. a creek called beaver creek on the S. Side.

Saturday 2nd.. June 1804.

our officers lay by this day for observations. 4 men went
out a hunting. about 12 oC. they came in had killed 4 deer.
we now lay at the Grandosage River which comes in on the
South Side which is a handsome River 397 yards wide the
Missourie is at this place 875 yards wide. we fell Some trees
in the point to open a place for observations.

Sunday 3rd.. June 1804.

a fair morning. Several men out a hunting. our officers
takes observations &c.

Monday 4th.. June 1804.

a fair morning. we branded Several trees &c. in the
afternoon we Set out and proceeded about 4 miles and Camped
at the [mouth] of a creek on S. Side.

Tuesday 5th.. June 1804.

a fair morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on passed
a creek on the South Side and Camped on the Same Side.

Wednesday 6th.. June 1804.

we Set out eairly. and proceeded on passed a creek called
led creek on S. Side. passed a creek on N. Side called little
good woman creek. the country is good Soil rich and well
timbred &c. Camped on the North Side.

Thursday 7th.. June 1804.

the hunters and Capt. Lewis went out to a buffaloe lick two
miles. Saw this Salt Spring, but no buffaloe. on N. E. Side
of the Missourie up the Monetuie [Manitou] river in a
timbred country. fine bottoms along each Side of the River,
underbrush thick.[3] Killd. 3 Rattel Snakes of Different Sorts
at a large rock Close by the latter river after roed. 10 miles
Campd. at the Mouth of Creek namd. The Good woman N. E.
Side of the Missurie Our daily hunters met us there with
three Bears, One Old famel & her two Cubbs brought By
G. Drewyer

Friday—8th

Got on our way at the usal hour had strong Watter to
Goe throug the white pierogue had hard Crossing the River
to bring the Meat from the hunters, Druyer killd. 5 deer before
12 Oclock. met two Connooes loaded with furr from the
Zoue [Sioux] River neer the Mandens. Got to the Amens
[Mine] River at three Oclock but did not remain at it any
times Roed. 16 mile.

Satery. 9

Got ondur way at the usal hour Roed. 7 miles Stopd to
take dinner at the End of a large Island Above the Arrow
Prarie the distance from the latter to the River Charrotte
River is 14 miles the hunters did Not Come as the Storm
was Great the peirouge Could not Cross for them Roed 15
miles

Sundy 10

We got to the Charrotte River at 2 Oclock Waited the
Arrival of the hunters there Sufferd. by the Musquitoes on
the N. E. Side The Bigg Charrottoe is 100 Yds at the mouth.
The little comus in to it at the Distance of 300 Yds. apart
its. Brenth at the mouth is 50 Yds.. Broad Swem the horses
and ferried the men across had hard watter Campd. On the
Charrotte prarie Roed 13 Miles.

Monday 11th..

the wind blew so strong in the morning that the Commanding
Officer halted there that day Drewyer killd. two bears &
One buck there Halted.

Tusday 12

Left the Charrottoe Perarie and Saild. for the Grand River.
Met with 7 peirogues. Loaded with peltry for Captn Chatto
[Chouteau] in St. Louis Our men of Each Craft Exchangd
Blankets for Buffalow Robes & Mockisons Sent One of Our
Men Belonging to the white pierouge back that Belongd to
Captn Stodders[4] Company of Artilery Incampd. within two
miles of the three point Island Roed 7 Miles that day.

Wendy.. 13th

Got On Our way at the three point Island Or the falling
Banks whare all hands Breakfasted belonging to the three
Crafts. On the oppisite Shore S. W. Side neer two or about
2 oclock the Barge Struck a Sandbar She keeld On her
labord the Sand being Quick Vanquishd Suddently from
Under her the Currant Being Rappid Neerly Swept the
men of[f] their legs while Bearing her up from Sinquing.
Got to the Grand River at three Oclock our hunters met us
there with a bear and Some Venison [*] this Venson is
nice (?)[*][5] Incampd there Roed. 14 Miles.

Thurs.dy 14

Got under way at the Grand River Roed 3 miles and Got
in to a Byoe at the End of sd. Byoe Came to the main River.
the River Rose the wrack run Rappidly we had to S[t]rike
Streat Across the River and the boat with the Other Crafts
took the Sand bar with much dificuelty Got them of[f]
Got on through many Deficueltys. Roe 6 Miles. Incampd.
Neer the Willow praraie.

Friday 15

Got on our way at the willow prarie the wind S. E. fresh
We Crouded Sail and Saild. 16 miles Campd at the Indian
Settlement namd little Zoe [Sioux] prarie the hunters met us
with four bears And three deer the party drank a Drachm of
whisky and Roe on.

Saterdy 16th

Got on our way at the little town Zoe peraraie this perara
is Extencive from the Banks of the River Runs a Vast number
of miles from the River back the Wind Rose we Saild 10
Miles Got in Strong water In the Evening towed. the boat
by cutting the timber off the Banks Got on successfully
Campd. at the Riffel Island whare the water Rolld. over in
Quicksand.

Sunday 17th.

Got on Our [way] Roed. One Mile And Incampd. and
Made 20 Oars & 600 feet of Roup at the Roap Walk Camp.

Monday 18th.

In the fore noon thunder and litning Came On After a
Rapid Rain Got fair and finish Roaps & And Oars. the
hunters killd. four deer and Colter one large Bare On the west
Side of the River.

Tusday 19

Got on Our way at the Roap walk Camp perarie the day
Was Clear a Sharp wind Arose Saild. 12 Miles Campd. at
neer the River Taboe, it Running N. E. the Breadth of it at
The Mouth is 50 Yds. at the Mouth.

Wendy. 20th.

Rain came on as we was a goeing to start in the morning
Shortly After Got fair the hunters Came to the bank of the
River. the[y] killd. a bear brought the Skin left the Meat
as it was poor the Currant was Strong towed. Our boat
Untill we came to the head of the Strong watter Island whare
the watter run so rappid that the men of the french peirouge
Could. not make headway by Roeing Or poleing the[y] had
to jumpd. out and push her through the water Incampd On
the point of And Islanand Calld. Strong water point Roed 12
Miles

Thursday 21st

Got on our way at the Strong water Point the water was
Strong likeways had to towe the Cheif part of the day to the
3 Islands Calld. the 3 mills whare the water Runs Rapidly
Campd. at the head of them Roed. 12 Miles the hunters
Came in with One deer & one turky and a bear Skin

Friday 22nd

the Rain came on Rapidly in the morning Interupd. our
Starting at the usal hour the day cleard Up at 7 Oclock
the two latter days was the hotist that has been seen Or felt
a long time. the water was Strong with the heat of the day
which made the times disagreeble to the party. G. Drewyer
killd a large Male Bare weighd. Neer 5 hundred. Wt. Our
hunters Came in which had been Absent from the 19th Inst.
the[y] had part of One deer girkd. with them their names is
J. Sheilds & Collins Incampd. at the fire perarie Roed 12
Miles.

Saterdy. 23rd.

Got on Our way at the fire prarie at day light passd. the
River Calld. painter Creek the wind Arose and blew a head
of us Renderd our days Work mighty hard for the hands of
Each Craft Saild. Only 3 miles Incampd. at the head of a
Island namd painter Island the hunters came In with two
deer & one fish the[y] shot Captn. Clark Could not Get

aboard the wind blew so strong G. Drewyr went out and
kill 2 deers and one Bare befor Night which made four deer
and One bare Kill[ed] in all that day

Sunday 24

Got on Our way at and Crossd. the River to the west Shore
at 12 oclock we Stopd. to Girk our meat on account of the
weather being so warm, passd. the River Calld the Straw Hill,
On the west Side Runing N. E. by E high land On Each
Side of the River, N[o] Indians has Apeard On our Rout
Yet the hunters killd. 8 deer one of which from a board the
white peerouge on her way Roed. 13 Miles Incampd. at hard
Scrable perara

Monday 25

Got on our way at hard Scrable Perarie passd. two Creeks
the One Calld. la beane[6] and the Other Rowling Creek, S. W.
S[ide] a little above the latter two wolves appeard On Shore
A man from on board of the white Peiroug went ashore Shot
One of them On the E side is high land and well timberd
the hills puts in neer the River. Roed 14 Miles. Incampd. on
a small Island. the hunters [blank space in MS.]

Tusday 26th

the morning was Clear the water was Strong at the head of
the Island we Campd. on Got to the E. Shore, and towed our
boat by Cutting the timber of[f] the Banks the day Got
mighty hot Saw 3 deer Swiming Down the River the white
peerogue took after them Killd. the three One of whom Sunk
as Soon [as] it Got shot in the head Got the other two
Brought them up to the Barge. G Druery killd. 8 deer that
day took them on board 2 miles before we Reachd. the River
de-Caugh [Kansas] at Sun Set Roed 10 Miles.

Wendy 27th

halted at the above mentioned River Nixt morning Cleard.
off the point And formd. a temperery brest work or piqet. Least
the Savages would Attempt. Comeing in the Night the Sd.
River de caugh as the[y] take the tittle from it I was Informd.
by one of our Men that traded Up the River that 300 Warriers
lives in One Village Up the River About 50 leagues.
Latd. 38D. 31M. 133. N this river lies in the head of it lies S. W.
Halted

Thursday 28

halted at the river de Caugh Meassurd. the Breadth of it is
230 ¼ Yds. a little farder is four hundred Do.
the hunters kill five deer one woolf and Catchd. an other
about five Months old Kept it for three days Cut its Rope
Got away.

Friday 29

Rested. Untill 4 Oclock p. M Started. on our journey Roed.
five 5 miles Campd. at woolf Creek.

Saterday 30

Got on our way at day light the water Was Strong the
land high on Each Side the deer was plentifull on the Sand
beech as we passd. along all sorts of fowls likeway the wolves
and Bears Every day Roed. 12 Miles.

July 1st. Sunday

the water was Strong all day passd. a Number of Islands to
the labourd Roed. 12 ¼ Miles the hunters did not Come up
to us that day.

Mondy. 2nd.

Got on Our way at Green Island at 4 Oclock P.M., the
water was Strong passd. a prarie on the west S. at Sd. place
Crossing the [river] at Sd. place the Boat Swong the [MS. torn]
Exerted them selves mighty well [MS. torn] Off halted. and
got a mast [MS. torn] the Barge Roed. 10 ½ Miles [MS.
torn] the head of Ordaways [MS. torn]

Tusday 3rd

Got on our way [MS. torn] Island oposite the [MS. torn]
Wind Rose Saild. [MS. torn] Lat 38, 31, 13 N.

Wendy. 4

Got on our way at Green point at the usal hour the wind
being favourable and the water being good Roed. on Successfully
the day mighty hot when we went to toe the Sand
[s]calded Our [feet] Some fled from the rope had to put on
Our Mockisons. within the River calld. Independance found
a Gray horse on the W. Side Roed. 16 Miles Incampd on a
perarie namd. Old town de Caugh

Thursdy. 5

Got on our way Roed. a mile up the prarie crossd. the River
with the white horse and left him with the others that the
hunters had on the E. Shore Roed. 10 Miles Incamped. at the
Rock prarie.

Fridy. 6

Got on on our way at the Usal hour at the Rock prarie
the water was tolarably Good. the land a little distance from
the River Hilly prarie. had Good Sailing Roed. 15 Miles
Campd. at a prarie calld the bald hills.

Saterdy. 7

Got under way about Sun Rise Six Miles from whare we
started. Came to the most beautifull prarie On the E. S. Whare
Nature formd. Some battryes And Readouts [redoubts] the
hills putts in Neer the River A quarter of mile to the N. E.
of Sd. prarie a rock on the Bank of the River about 320 feet
from the surface of the watter high to the top there off. after
passing Sd. place towards the Evening a man Espyd. a wolf lying
a sleep with the Noise of the oars Roeing he awoke Stood
to [k]no[w] what was a comeing Captn. Lewis shot at him
Wounded the animal, Colter likeways, killd. him it was
thought he was mad when the first Bawl Struck him he snapd.
at his hind part Roed. 15 Miles. Incampd.

Sunday 8th.

the wind Rose before we started. and blew fair with us
Saild Chiefly for the space of Eight hours we came to Small
River Calld. little Nan doughe, [Nadawa] In Indian tounge,
Inglish little woody River, it lieing in latude 39D, 39M, 22S 7/100
an Island to the S. S On on our W.S. a bear apeared but
Could. not be Shot Made his Alopement we Got to the River
Nandouie Roed 15 Miles Incampd. at the head of of a large
Island.

Monday 9

Sat out the Usal hour of Day light Rain Came On Raind
the Most part of the day the hunters did not come in We
rod 12 Miles at Piettet River de louce [loup] or Woolf River.
Incampd. it lies on the W. S. the Mouth is about 20 yds.
B [road]. the hunters Came did not come in.

Tusday 10

Got On Our way at woolf River at Sun Rise the water was
strong the Morning was Clear. On the E. S. of the River
whare [we] Stopd. to take breakfast the willd. Rice was pleanty
Groeing on the bank of the River, Straberyes, Rosies, Red
And White Roed. 11 Miles Campd. at the hunters Came in
brought 2 deer with them.

Wedndy.. 11

Got Under Way at an Early hour It appeard. like rain but
cleard up passd. Some Islands to the E. of us Got to
Grande-mo-haugh [Grand Nemaha] at Eleven Oclock Halted.
that day and Next. Roed. 4 ½ Miles.

Thursdy. 12

Rested. at the above mentiond place found a a pybold horse
on the E. S. the hunters Came in brought 4 deer with them.
Captn. Lewis took the altude as follows Latd. 39D. 55M. N.

Friday 13

Got under way Early and Swim the horses across a Creek
Tarkia, for the hunters the wind Rose pass Several Islands
Is On Our labourd. Saild. 27 Miles. Campd on the little
Sandy Isle Oppesite the Hurican[e] prarie.

Tusdy

the Rain Came on before we left Camp with a Smart wind
that Inragd. the watter to Such a degree that all hands had to
Get in the Watter to keep up the boat. Roed. on after the
Storm was Over 10 Miles.

Sundy. 15

the Morning was foggy had to wait Untill it went off Passd
the River namd. Nishnay Baton [a] at 3 Oclock passd. the
little Mohaugh Got to Camp on the Mohaugh prarie. Roed.
11 Miles

Monday 16

The morning was Clear the water strong the wind rose
had Good Sailing passd. a number of Islands to the labourd.
Seen Some Elk on the E. Shore as we passd. the prarie Roed.
20 Miles Campd. on the Mohaugh prarie

Tusdy 17

Halted on the latter mention prarie Neer the Bald. pated. hills
took an altitude of the meriedian Latd. 40., 29, 54 5/10 N
Go. Druier Brought in 3 deer in the Evening.

Wendy. 18

the Morning was Clear Got under way at day light the
wind blew fair saild 13 miles Before Dinner. passd. an Iron
oar Mine on the Bank of the River on the W. S. wint 22
Miles. the hunters brough[t] 2 deer in with them.

Thur.sdy 19th.

Got on under way the Morning was Clear passd. 4 Islands
To our Stabourd as we came along Shore there was two large
Cat fish had hold of Each other could not get off one of the

french men Shot the two the first Shot. On the W. Shore at
Butter run, the men pulld. a Great Quantity of wild Cherrys
put them in the Barrel of whisky. Roed 12 Miles Campd. on
an Island neer the River Calld. the Crying Water.

Friday 20

Got on our way at an Early hour Came up to the creek
calld. Crying water Breakfasted In the Mouth of it the
breanth there of is 20 Yds. at the mouth On the W. S. Under
baldhill. at[7] one oCLock Came to a Large oPen preaarie
neare the River oPLate it [is] hie Land and Rich, and Some
groves of TimBer. a freash Bres of wind Come fare and we
SaLed we Came to [an] I Land cross under an[d] lest night
the hunt[ers] kiLed 2 deare Camp nere the Read Blufe
Road [rowed] 17 miLe.

Sartdaye 21

got on oer way at an [early hour] the wind Come fare we
Come 2 miLes and Eat oer Breakfast. the wind Seased BLoing
a reamark[able] hiLL tow hundrered foot hie from the
warter Come to the River opLate at one oCLock this River
On the west Side of the Mesury a fine preare [two words
illegible] on the mouths of the PLate with Beries on a very
Strong Streame it Baks the Mussiry over hie warter & Land
on the West Side and [an] I Land.

[8] The wedth of the Great River Platt at its mouth across the
bars is about ¾ of a mile, but further up we are told by a
Frenchman who lived 2 years up this River that it does not rise
4 feet, but Spreads 3 miles in some places. we passed a creek
called pappeo [papillion] R. praries are between the 2 Rivers.
we camped on the S.S. G. Drewye joined us with 4 Deer he
killed.

Sunday July 22d. 1804.

we Set out eairly to find Some good place for observations
&c. For Incamping. we passd. a creek on the N. S. called Musquetoe
Creek. came 12 miles & camped. cut & cleaned a
place for encamping pitched our tents built bowereys &c—

Chapter II

FROM THE PLATTE TO VERMILION RIVER

II. July 23–August 24, 1804

Monday July 23rd.. 1804.

a CLEAR morning G. Drewyer & St. Peter [Crusatt]
Set out to go to the Zotoe & Paunie village 45 miles
to Invite them to come to our camp for Certian purposes
&c. we hoisted the american Collours on the Bank The
Latitude at this place is 41D. 3M 19¾ North. one of the hunters
killed 2 Deer to day.

Tuesday July 24th.. 1804.

Some rain this morning 4 men went to makeing ores for
the Batteaux.

Wednesday July 25th.. 1804.

a pleasant morning. Som men out hunting. G. Drewyer
& St. peter Returned found no Indians, they were in the praries
hunting the Buffelow. Collins killed 2 Deer. Jo. F[ields]
1 Turkey.

Thursday July 26th.. 1804.

pleasant morning Some men out hunting. G. Drewyer
killed 2 Deer & 1 Turkey. the latter part of the day the
[wind] hard from the South a Great many Beaver caught at
this place by the party.

Friday July 27th.. 1804.

cloudy morning the Boat made ready to Start. we Set out
about 1 oClock proceeded along. high wood land on S.S.
G. Shannon killed one Deer to day we passed a prarie on the
S. S. we passd. many sand bars, the River very crooked;

came about 15 miles & camped on a bank of a high prarie,
among a Grove of Cotten wood. the 2 men who were with
the horses did not join us to night.

Saturday July 28th.. 1804.

cloudy morning. we Set out eairly proceded on past a high
Bottom prarie on N. S. Some Timber on the Ridge back of
those praries above the Bottom prarie the hills make in close
to the River verry high & Steep. we passd. the mouth of a
Small Creek on N. S. named Round Knob Creek. the wind
Blew hard from the N. E. G. Drewyer joined us at 11 oC with
one Deer. [1] we Came to a hi CLift or Buut [Butte] one hun[dred]
feet the Barge Struck a Sand Bare on the Side of the
River on the StarBord S. inCampe on the north Side of the
[river] at the foot of a iLand CaLd the BLuf iLand we
Rowed 10 MiLes that day. the hunterers Comin and Brought
one indian with them.

Sunday 29

the Morning was Rany the indian and LiBerty went to the
nation to Bring the rest of them to a treaty the hunter Come
to us at 12 CLock with Some EaLk meat and on[e] deare
the Cowes [buffalo, word conjectural] was near the Same Praerie
Land Some groves of timBer weL wartered I Cut my [word
illegible] on the 27 had to Lay by my ower [oar] the Cout
was one inch and half Long WiLard Left his tommehake weare
[where] we Camped on the night of the 28 Instan we Came
to the Grean Prarie it [is] very hansom the hiLs Com in
near the river th[ere] Come in [a] smaLe Creak on the West
Sd. of the river Cald it Potts Creak aBout 20 yds at the
Mouth. [2] Rold. 11 ½ Campd. on the E. S. Joseph fields
Shot a Brareowe he is the form of a dog. his colour is Gray
his talents on the four feet is 1 ½ Inch long his picture never
was Seen by any of the party before.

Monday July 30th.

Sat out at an Early hour to find a place of Incampment. to
wait for lebarty & the Zottoe Indians to form A Treaty with
them Come to a place of Incampt. About Eigh [t] Oclock On
the W. S. in a piece of woods Cloase to a high Bank whare
No. 2 walkd. On; from Surface of the water it is neerly 100
feet in hight. Roed 4 Miles & halted there.

Tusday July 31

the Morning was Clear G. Druier Catched a young beavour
kept him for a pet. Joseph fields, And his brother lost the
horses when the[y] went to bring whome [home] a deer that
the Sd. Joseph Shot on the Evening of the 30th. Inst.

Wendy August 1st;

the Morning was Clear G. Druier & Colter went to look
for the horses that was lost on the 30th. of last month; G. Gibson
was Sent back one Days Journey to see if the Indians came
there with Liberty that was sent for them to come to a Treaty
with Captn. Lewis & Wm. Clark at the Camp of the Brareowes.
Shields Kill One Deer Gibson returnd but did not see liberty
or the Indians there.

Thursday 2nd.

G. Druier & Colter Returnd found the horses Killd. an
Elk. Brought It to Camp 12 of the Zottoe Indians Arivd.
at Our Camp Calld. the Council Bluffs, or the Brarareham prarie;
at the Hour of 7 Oclock P. M. No buissness was don.
the commanding officer Orderd them plenty of Provisions.
Halted.

Friday 3rd.

the morning was foggy the Indians Beheavd. well while Incampd.
Neer our party Captn. Lewis Brought them to a treaty after
the hour of 9 Oclock there was Six of the Zottoe Cheifs
& Six of the Missueriees; he gave 3 of the head chiefs a
Meaddle Each; and the Other three Commissions in the Name
of the president of the U. S. the[y] was well content With
what the[y] Recd. the Officer Commanding Gave Each of the

privates Some Small presents which made them all on an Eaqual
Satisfactory Atonement for their Visit. the[y] was well
Content in the presence of their two fathers, which was M.
Lewis & Wm. Clark do. when the Articles was Opend Out
the[y] Said as long as the french had traded with [them] the[y]
Never Gave them as much as a Knife for Nothing. Got under
way in the Evening Saild. 5 miles.

Saterday Augst. 4th.

The morning was Clear passd. Several Indian Old Camps
On the W. S. one was Calld. the hat as the Indian died there
namd. the hat Campd. on the East Side Roaed 17 m2..

Sunday 5

Nothing Extraordinary happned that day Road 16 miles
Campd. On the S. S. Read deserted from our party.

Monday 6th.

the morning was fair got underway at Sun Rise passd. an
Island to the L. S. Roaed 12 miles before Dinner. the
hunters brought 3 deer to the River Campd. on the sd: S.
Roaed 18 ¾ Miles.

Tusday Augt. 7th.

the Morning Clear the party Sonsisted of 4 their names
first G. Druier, R. fields, Bratton, And William [Labiech][3] that
was Sent after mr. Read that Deserted in Lat. 41, 17,00 N.
Nothing Else happend. Extraordinary this day.

Wendsy. Augt. 8th.

Captn. M. Lewis Shot a pillican the Bagg that it carried its
drink in containd. 5 Gallons of water by Measure after we
passd. the pillican Island there was better than 5 or 6000 of
them flying they kept before Us one day Roaed 19 Miles
Campd. On the E. S.

Thursday Augt. 9th.

the Morning was foggy Cleard Up at 8 Oclock the Wind
blew south had Good Sailing for better than 14 Miles.
Cam[p]ed On the E. S. Roaed & Saild. 20 miles.

Friday 10

the morning was clear the musquitoes was mighty troublesome
Untill The Sun Rose to Some hight. Campd On the E.
S. Roaed 24 miles.

Sateday Augt. 11.

Rain came on at the hour of 3 Oclock A. M. a heavy wind
blew after. the Crafts got under way at 6 Oclock favourd. With
a South Wind, passd. a bluff whare the Black bird the late
King of the Mahars Was buried 4 years ago the Officers took
a flagg with them and Assended the hill which was 300 feet
higher than the water left the white flagg on a pole Stuck on
his Grave. Road. 18 Miles [camped] on the E. S.

Sunday Augt 12th.

The Morning was fair a Sharp Breese of wind Blew from
the South Sald. 21 Miles from 12 Oclock the 11th. to 12 Oclock
this day and Gaind. 914 yards on a direct Cource. Camped on
the W. S. r[owed] 21 Miles.

Monday Augt. 13th.

Arived. at the fish camp Neer the Mahars Village at at 4
4 Oclock this day the Commanding Officer Sent a Serjt. & 4
Men with a white flagg, to the Village to Invite them to Come
to a treaty, but the[y] found no Indians at the Village Returnd.
Nixt day after 12 Oclock.

Tusday 14th.

the day was fair and pleasant Some of the men Went a hunting
Returnd found no Game.

Wendy 15

Captn. Clark and Some of the men went a fishing to a pond
One mile from the River the[y] had Good Success the[y]
catchd. 386 fish.

Thursday Augst. 16

Captn.. Lewis went out the Nixt day with his party and Returned
with 709 fish Neerly 200 pike fish amongst them.

Friday Augt 17th.

the weather was fine the men Ocepyed their time in Cam[p]
Repairing their Arms, and Cloathing. LaeBash returned by
himSelf Lost the Party and came to Camp with measige.[4]

Saturday 18th Augt.[5]

G. Drewyer & the other 2 men Returned & Brought with
them M. Reed the Deserter, likewise the pettevolior [Little
Thief] the Big chief of the Zattous & another called the Big
horse, a frenchman & 7 of the warriers &c. they all came for
the purpose of treating & making friends with the Mahars, &c.
M. Reed tried & towards evening he Recd. his punishment,
the chiefs Sorry to have him punished &c. La Liberty has
not returned. it is expected that he has deserted.

Sunday 19th.

the Indians all appear to be friendly at 9 oClock the
Captains read a long Speech to them & Counseled with them,
& Gave one a medal & the others they Gave commissions, &
Some Small preasants &c we Gave them provisions while they
Remained with us. Sergt. Floyd Taken verry ill this morning
with a collick.

Monday 20th..

we Set out eairly this morning under a gentle breeze from
the S.E. the Indians all Set out for to return to their village,

we Sailed on verry well till noon when we landed for to take
Dinner. Sergeant Charles Floyd expired directly after we
landed. he was layed out in the most decent manner possable.
we proceeded on to the first hills on N. S. where we
halted and dug a Grave on the top of a round knob & buried
the Desed with the honours of war. the funeral Serrymony
performed &c. we named this hill Sgt. Floyd's Bluff we then
proceeded on to a Creek on the Same Side which we named
Sgt. Floyds Creek.

Tuesday 21st.. August 1804.

we Set out eairly this morning under a hard Breeze from the
South. we passed the mouth of the Grand River Souix close
abv. a high Bluff on N. S. we came 20 odd miles & camped on
S. S.

Wednesday 22nd.. Augt. 1804.

we Set off eairly the current Swift. the [wind] hard from
the South. we passed a ceedar Bluff on the South Side in
which we found Some kinds of Minral Substance, the 2 men
who had been with the horses joined us had killed 2 Deer
we pasd. an allum Stone clift on the S. S. we camped at a
prarie on the N. S. we See a great deal of Elk Sign &c.

Thursday 23rd

we Set off eairly 2 men went on Shore hunting. passed
round a bend Capt. Clark walked on Shore a Short time and
killed a fat Buck. we halted to take Breakfast. 2 Elk Swam
across the River close abv. the boat we wounded boath of
them. Jo. Fields came to the Boat had killed a Bull Buffelow.
Capt. Lewis & 10 men of the party went out & Brought it to
the Boat. John Collins killed a faun. the 2 men on the S. S.
who had been with the horses came to the Boat with 2 Deer.
we halted in a bend to dine the wind verry hard so we jurked
our meat &c. the wind fell towards evening we proceeded
on till dark & camped on the S. S.

Friday 24th.

Some Small Showers of rain last night we Set off about
Sun rise. we passed rugged Bluffs on the S. S. where we found
Some red berreys which they call Rabbit berrys. we passed a
handsom prarie on N. S. in this prarie we are informed that
their is a high hill which they call the hill of little Devills. we
passed the mouth of large Creek on N.S. called White
Stone River which is abt. 50 yards wide & extends a Great
distance in to the Countrey, we Camped on the S. S. of the
Missouri.

Chapter III

FROM THE VERMILION TO TETON RIVER

III. August 25–September 24, 1804

Saturday 25th.

2 MEN of the party caught 9 nine cat fish last night, 5 of
them verry large. Capt. Lewis & Clark & 10 more of
the party went back to See the hill of little Devils. the
Boat waited till eleven oClock & then went on.

Sunday 26th.

the Boat detained this morning to Jurk an Elk which
Shannon killed, abt. 9 oClock the party returned to the Boat
much fatigued they informd us that their was nothing but
Birds to be Seen & that it is about nine miles from the
Missouri & a handsom round hill in a [im] mence large prarie.
they Saw a Great many Buffelow from the hill. they were all
most famished for water &c. we proceeded on passed a white
clay Bluff on S. S. we found a large plumb orched in a prarie
N. S. we Camped on a large Sand bar N. S. opposite a Creek
called pet arck [Petite Arc] or little Bow whare their was
formerly an Indian village.

Monday 27th.

G. Drewyer came to us this morning 2 men Sent out for
to hunt the horses. we Set out at Sun rise under a gentle
Breeze from the S. E. we proceeded on passed a chalk Bluff
on S.S. in this Bluff is Mineral Substance &c. we passed the
Mouth of a large Creek called River Jaque on the N. S.
here we Saw 3 Indians they informed us that their camp was
near & Sergt. pryor & 2 men went we then proceeded on
untill dark & camped on a large Sand beach on the N. Side.

Tuesday 28th.

we Set off eairly under a fine Breeze from S. E. we passed
high praries on N. S. handsome & ascending graddually from
the river at 2 oClock P M. the wind Blew hard from the
S.W. the pearogue got a hole Broke in to hir by dashing a
gainst a Snag, So that they had to begin to unload, but they
Stoped the Water from comming in by Stopping in one thing
& another. So we went across the river on the South Side and
camped to wait the arival of the Indians &c. in order to counsel
with with them &c. a flag pole raised this place is below
a large Island & Sand bar below a hill & Bluff on the S. S. in
a handsome Bottom & Groves of oak Timber, &c.

Wednesday 29th.

a hard Storm arose from the N. W. last night abt 8 oCof
wind & rain. cloudy morning, Some Thunder, colter
Sent on with Some provision for to hunt Shannon & the horses
&c. the pearogue repaired the men make a Towing line out
of our Elk Skins. we have pleanty of fine cat fish which the
party catch in the Missouri River, in the afternoon Serg
pryor & the 2 men returned brot with them 60 Indians of
the Souix nation they appear to be friendly. they camped on
the opposite Shore we carried them over Some provisions &
capt Lewis Sent them Tobacco &c. Sergt. pryor informed us
that their Town was abt. 9 miles from the Missouri, and consisted
of 40 lodges, and built with dressed Buffelow Skins &c.
painted different coulers &c. G. Drewyer killed one Deer
to day.

Thursday 30th..

the fog is so thick on the river this morning that we could
not See across the river, untill late in the morning. about
9 oClock the Indians was brought across the river in our
pearogue our Captains counseled with them read a Speech
to them, & made 5 of them chiefs & Gave them all Some
Marchandize &c &c. They received them verry thankfully
divided them out among themselves, & play on their juze

harps, Sung &c. they [their] Boys Shot with their Bows and
arrows for Beeds and appeared to be merry, and behaved well
among our parte[y]. Capt. Lewis Shot his air gun told them
that their was medician in hir & that She would doe Great
execution, they were all amazed at the curiosity, & as Soon
as he had Shot a fiew times they all ran hastily to See the Ball
holes in the tree they Shouted aloud at the Site of the execution
She would doe &c. The Captains Gave them provisions
&c. as Soon as it was dark a fire was made a drum was
repaired among them. the young men painted themselves
different ways. Some with their faces all white others with
their faces part white round their forehead, & breasts &c.
then they commenced dancing in curious manner to us. their
was a party that Sung and kept time with the drumm. they
all danced or all their young men especially. they Gave a
houp before they commenced dancing, they would dance
around the fire for Some time and then houp, & then rest a fiew
minutes. one of the warrirs would git up in the centre with
his arms & point towards the different nations, & make a
Speech, telling what he had done, how many he had killed &
how many horses he had Stole &c. all this make them
Great men & fine warrirs, the larger rogues [are] the best
men &c or the Bravest men & them that kills most gets the
greatest honoured among them

Friday 31st..

a pleasant morning.

Septr.. 1

the morning was Rainy got under way at the Calmit bluff
at that place Captn. Lewis & Clark Held a treaty with the tribe
of the Debough-bruley [Bois Brulé] or the Burning wood.[1]

Sunday 2nd.. Sept. 1804.

a hard Storm of wind and rain last night which lasted about
2 hours, cloudy this morning we Set off eairly three men
out hunting. the hunters killed three Elk. we halted at 8

oC on the S. S. where their was an ancient fortification in the
form of a half moon it appeared that one Side had washed in
to the river. Capt. Clark took the dimentions of it. the wind
high from the North So that we were obledged to lay too at a
high prarie where we found plumbs & Grapes a pleanty.

Monday 3rd. Sept.

cool and pleasant this morning we Set off at Sun rise
passed yallow Bluff & many beaver Signs we passed a Chalk
Bluff we passed plumb Creek on the N. S. Camped on
the S. S.

Tuesday 4th.. Sep

Set off eairly. proceeded on found Some plumbs. passd.
white paint Creek on the S. S. we Sailed fast, we passed the
Mouth of Big Rapid River on S. S. Saw an Indian raft at a
Cdeeder [Cedar] Bottom abv. the Mo. of Rapid River. G.
Drewyer killed a Turky we looked for tracks of Shannon
but could not See whether he had passd. or not.

Wednesday 5th.. Sept.

we took a ceeder mast on board Some hunters out we
Sailed on passed Goat creek on N. S. where the Beaver had
made a damm across the mouth of it. we passed handsome
Minneral Springs on the N. S. the hunters killed 2 Elk & a
Deer.

Thursday 6th.. Sept.

a cloudy morning Several hunters out hunting. colter
joined us had not found Shannon. the hunters killed 1 Buffalow
one Elk 3 Deer one woolf 1 Deer & four Turkies.
camped on N. S.

Friday 7th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear morning we set off eairly. one of the hunters killed
a prarie dogg & Sd. he Saw a village of them we halted the
Capts. went out with 10 men and drounded out one & took it
alive & kept it. it is a curious annimal much like a little dog,
& live in holes all in a compact place like a village.

Saturday 8th.. Sept.

a pleasant morning. we Set off eairly. G. Drewyer joined
with the horses had killed 2 Elk a faun Deer and caught 2
large beaver. we passed an old Trading house on N. S.
Capt. Clark walkd on Shore & killed a faun Deer 3 Turkies
& a Squerrell.

Sunday 9th.. Sept

we Set off eairly. Saw Several Gangs of Buffalow on the
Side hills on S. S. Capt. Clark walked on Shore passed Several
creeks. G. Drewyer killed a Deer. R. Fields killed a
Buffalow. Capt. Clark killed a Buffalow.

Monday 10th.. Sept. 1804.

a foggy morning. we Set off eairly proceeded on. we Saw
a ruck of Bones on the Bank S. S. which appeared to be the
Bones of a monstrous large fish the Back Bone is 45 feet long.
the hunters killed three Buffalow & a Deer.

Tuesday 11th.. Sept. 1804.

Set out an eairly hour Clear morning & fare wind. proceeded
on passed an IsId.. covd. with timber. high hills and
prarie Saw a man coming down to the bank horseback near
we came to Shore and found it was Shannon that had been
with the horses. he had been absent 16 days and 12 of them
he had eat nothing but Grapes. the reason was his balls ran
Short. the hills commenced close on both Sides of the river.
Capt. Clark, Sergt. Ordway & Sergt. Pryor went out to hunt
this morning [came] to us heree. had killed 2 Elk 4 Deer
and one porkapine. one of the horses which Shannon had
with him Gave out & he left him 7 days ago. we proceeded
on Rained verry hard passed black bluffs on the S. S.
R. Fields went with the horse as we have only the one now
the rain continued untill 7 oClock in the evening. Camped
on the South Side.

Wednesday 12 Sept. 1804.

Clouday. R. Fields continued on with the horse. passed a
long range of black bluffs on the S. S. and an Island covered
with timber. that is all the wood that is to be Seen at this
place. all the country is hills and praries. at 12 oclock Capt.
Clark Newman and Sergt. Gass went a hunting. those in the
barge had a Great deal of trouble to Git along the Sand bars,
their was So many and the current So rapid that we did not
come more than 4 miles. Camped after dark on the S.
Side.

Thursday 13th.. Sept. 1804.

cloudy and hard rain. G. Drewyer caught 4 beaver last
night high wind, passed a creek on S. S. and range of black
bluffs. three of the party went out to hunt and has not
returned yet. Camped on the N. S.

Friday 14th.. Sept. 1804.

a foggy morning, a cloudy day and Some rain the water is
So Shallow that we had to waid & hall the barge over the
Sand bars. at 8 oClock we halted for to take breakfast. the
3 men who went a hunting yesterday joined us here. the hills
and praries are pleasant but barron. G. Drewyer caught 3
beaver last night the Musquitoes are troublesom. passd. black
bluffs on the S. Side and an Island which had Som timber on
it. passed a creek on South Side. the hunters killed a goat
and a hare. the Goat was killed by Capt. Clark & the first
that was Seen by the party on the Missourie.

Saturday the 15th.. Sept.

we Set off eairly a cloudy morning. Collins went with the
horse. we passed a creek on the S. Side named Shannons
creek and black bluffs on N. S. passed white River on the
S. Side Sergt. Gass & R. Fields went up white River Some
distance. they found it to be a handsom river and a handsom
country. 12 miles up this R. it is 150 yds.. wide the current
and coulour is like the Missourie R.

Sunday 16th.. Sept. 1804.

we Set off eairly and proceeded on passed the mouth of
White River on the S. Side Came 4 miles and Camped at
a beautiful bottom wood with thin timber named pleasant
Camp. I went out a hunting and Several more of the party,
their was a nomber of buffaloe Elk Deer Goats & one magpy
killed this day. Sergt. Gass & R. Fields returned. had killed
3 Deer.

Monday 17th.. Sept. 1804.

Capt. Lewis and Several more of the party went out a hunting.
they came in had killed 13 common Deer 2 black taild
Deer 1 Goat & 3 Buffaloe the Goats in this [country] is different
from the Goats in the States they have much longer ears
and courser hair. Drewyer caught 1 beaver. killed a prarie
wolf, these wolves are larger than a fox.

Tuesday 18th.. Sept.

we Set off from camp pleasant a clear day. passed timbered
land on the S. S. hills and prarie on the N. S. passd. an
Isd. and a Great nomber of Sand bars. Capt. Lewis in his yesterdays
hunt killed a bird not common in the States a bird of
pray resembling the Europian magpy. Capt. Clark Drewyer
& jo Fields killed 11 deer and one wolf we Camped before
night in order to jerk our meat on the S. Side Fields did not
join us this night.

Wednesday 19th.. Sept.

we Set off eairly. a clear day. we passed handsom large
bottoms on Each Side covered with timber jo. Fields killed
a black tailed Deer & hung it up on the bank of the river.
Capt. Clark & 2 men went out to hunt on N. S. at noon we
Saw Some buffaloe Swimming the river. we Stoped and
Killed 2 of them. proceeded on. Capt. Lewis and Drewyer
went to hunt on an Island opposit to this Isld. comes in
River called the Souix pass over of the three Rivers. at the
upper end of the Same Isd. comes in a creek called Elm Creek
up the bluffs abt. 2 miles comes in another Creek called wash

creek. Capt. Lewis and Drewyer Came to the Boat again.
about 2 miles we passd. another creek called night Creek, at
which place we Camped on the South Side. Here Drewyer
came to us had killed 2 deer of the black tald kind.

Thursday 20th.. Sept.

Set off eairly a clear day & fair wind. passed handsom
riseing prarie on N. Side and a bottom covered with timber
on the S. Side. Capt Clark walked on Shore. Drewyer and
Shields went across a point withe the horse about 2 miles
which was 30 miles round by water, which is called the Grand
bend of the missourie. at one oClock we halted to dine.
Capt. Lewis and R. Fields went a hunting. at 2 oC we proceeded
on passed a long range of bluffs on N. S. of a dark
coulour. out of those and others of the same kind is where
the Missourie Gets its muddy colour for this Earth melts like
Sugar, and every rain that comes they wash down and the
rapidness of the current keeps continualy mixing through the
water all the way to the mouth of the Mississippi. at 7 oC
we camped on a large Sand beach on N. S. here boath the
Captains and R. Fields joined us. had killed 2 Goats and 2
deer at 1 oClock at night the bank began to fall in So fast
we had to raise all hands and go on one mile further before
we could camp. then crossed the river & camped again.

Friday 21st.. Sept.

Set off eairly a clear day proceeded on 4 miles passed the
bluffs on the South Side and came to the End of the bend
where it is not more than 2 miles across to our Camp of the
19th.. Inst. after a journey of 35 miles. we proceeded on passed
black bluffs on S. S. and handsom plains on N. S. passd. a
ceeder bottom on S. S. and bluffs on the N. Side passed a
creek on the S. S. called Tylors creek. Camped on the N.
Side.

Saturday 22nd.. Sept.

Set off eairly a foggy morning. passed Some timber on
S.S. high plains on N. S. about 3 oC we passed a ceeder

Isld. one of the 3 Sister [s] where Mr. Louisell had built a fort
of ceeder. it is pickeded in 65 or 70 feet Square a Sentery
box at the 2 angles corners the pickets are 13 ½ feet above
Ground. in this Square he built a house 45 ½ by 32 ½ feet
divided into 4 equal parts, one for a common hall one to trade
in and one for a famaly house. opposite this Drewyer &
Shields came to us with the horse. they had killed Several
deer and one white wolf. passed a creek & Isd. of the 3 Sisters
proceeded on passed an old Indian Camp where we found
Some of their dog poles, they answer us for Setting poles.
the reason that they are called dog poles is that they tye them
to their dogs & they hall their baggage &c. from one Camp
to another. we Camped on the N. S.

Sunday 23rd.. Sept.

we Set out eairly a clear morning passed Some timber on
the N. S. high land on the S. S. passed a creek on the N. S.
called Smoak creek. R. Fields went out to hunt we passed
Elk Island at the lower end of the long reach. a handsom
bottom on the N. S. and barron hills on the S. Side. At
6 oC in the evening we Seen 4 Indians on the S. S. we
Camped on the N. S. and three of them Swam over to us
they belonged to the Souix nation. they Informed us that
their was more of their nation not far off we Set them back
over the river again R. Fields joined us here had killed one
Goat.

Monday 24th.. Sept.

Set off eairly passed a Small creek on the S. Side about
3 oClock Coulter came up the bank and told us that he had
went on an Island this morning, and while he was their the
Indians Stole the horse, he had killed 2 Elk one perogue
Stopd. to dress & take them on board. we saw 5 Indians on
the bank but we could not understand them nor them us. we
ankred the boat out in the river to wait for the perogues. one
came up we then proceeded on to the mouth of the Teton
River on the S. Side where we ankered out 100 yards from

Shore and all the men remained on board except the Guard &
the cooks. we had one frenchman on board who could Speak
a little of their language. they told us that their chiefs would
come to See us tomorrow. they sayd that if their young men
had taken the horse they would Git him again. these are a
band of the Souix nation called the Tetons. those 5 we Saw
on Shore Stayed all night.

Chapter IV

FROM TETON RIVER TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD
OF THE MANDANS

IV. September 25–October 15, 1804

Tuesday 25th.. Sept.

We delayed to wait for the Indian chiefs and warrie[r]s
to come which we expected. about 10 oClock they
came about 50 in nomber. our officers made three
of them chiefs, and Gave them meddels & Some presents. 5
of them came on board & Stayed a long time. Capt. Clark and
Some men took [them] to Shore in a perogue. the Indians did
not incline to let us Go on any further up the river. they held
the cable of the perogue and Said that they wanted one perogue
at least to Stay as they were poor. Capt. Clark insisted on Going
on board but they resisted for a long time. they Sd. they
had Soldiers on Shore as well as he had on board. Capt. Clark
told them that he had men and medican on board that would
kill 20 Such nations in one day. they then began to be Still
and only wished that we would Stop at their lodges untill their
women & children would see us. 4 of them came on board
again, & we proceeded on 1 mile and ankered out at the lower
point of an Island in the middle of the river. the 4 Indians
stayed with us all night.

Wednesday 26th.. Sept.

we Set off eairly proceeded on 4 miles all the way on the
S. Shore was covered with Savages. at 10 oClock we came to
where the whole band had formed a circle of their lodges &
pitched in the best order possable. we ankered out about 100
yards from Shore. Capt. Lewis the 4 chiefs & 4 or 5 men went
on Shore. the natives appeared peacable & kind. Capt. Lewis

came on board & Capt. Clark went out. when the Indians Saw
the officers comming they Spread a buffaloe Robe on the
Ground and they Set down on it, then it was taken up by 4
warrie[r]s and carried to the Grand chiefs lodge. they killed
Several fat dogs which they call the best meat that ever was.
at night the women assembled and danced untill 11 oClock at
night. then our officers came on board and 2 chiefs with
them.

Thursday 27th.. Sept. 1804.

we Stayed here this day. Capt. Lewis and Some of the party
went over to See the Indians Camps their lodges are about 80
in nomber and contain about 10 Souls Each, the most of them
women and children. the women are employed dressing buffaloe
hides for to make themselves cloathing and to make their
lodges &c. they are or appear as yet to be the most freendly
people I ever Saw but they will Steal and plunder if they can
git an oppertunity. they are verry dirty the vessels they carry
their water in is the pouch of their game which they kill and in
the Same manner that they take them out of the animel. they
gave us different kinds of victules to eat. Some of it I never
Saw the like before. about 15 days ago they had a battle with
the Mahars. they killed 65 men and took 25 women prisoners.
they took the 65 of the Mahars sculps and had them hung on
Small poles, which ther women held in their hands when they
danced. we Saw them have one dance this evening. they
kept it up untill one oclock dancing round a fire about 80 of
them in nomber. they had drums and whistles for musick.
they danced war dances round the fire which was curious to us.
when we came on board an axedant happened by running the
perogue across the bow of the boat and broke our cable and
lost our anker all hands was raised and roed the barge to
Shore. the Savages ran down to know what was the matter.
we told them they Said that they came to our assistance we
thanked them for Showing their good will but kept on
our guard all night for fear they would turn our enimies
themselves.

Friday 28th.. Sept. 1804.

we draged the river in hopes to find our anker but it was in
vain. about 9 oClock we went to Set off Some of the chiefs
was then on board and concluded to go a little ways with us.
when we were about to Shove off a nomber of warrie[r]s on
Shore caught hold of our cable and another whiped of[f] the
children the women went off also only about 60 warries on
the edge of the bank and we jest under the bank Some of
them had fire arms and the rest had Good bows and arrows
ready for war. the consequence had like to have been bad as
Capt. Lewis was near cutting the cable with his Sword and giving
orders for the party to fire on them. then the chiefs went
out and Spoke to them. they Said if we would Give them a
carrit of tobacco they would loose the rope. we gave them
tobacco. the chief after Some hesitation loosed the rope himself.
we then Set of under a fine breese of wind. passed high
land on N. S. & bottom on S. S. Saw an Indian comming up
the Shore. we hoisted a white flag, and a red flag for peace or
war, and was determined to fight our way, if we could not Go
without. Capt. Lewis Got into a perogue and went on Shore to
See what the Indian wished [and] brought him on board. he
Informed us that 300 more of Savages had arived at the village
they wished us to Stop and talk with them, but we did not
Stop. he remained on board. about Sunset we ankered out
near a Small Sand bar in the middle of the river for to Stay all
night.

Saturday 29th.. Sept. 1804.

we Set off eairly. proceeded on passed bluffs on S. S. Saw
Several Indians on Shore 1 or 2 of the brave men as they called
themselves, wanted Some tobacco. the Officers gave them
2 carrits of tobacco but told them that we Should not Stop
untill we Got to the RickRee I. Nations. passed an old village
on S. S. where the RickaRees had lived 5 years ago, had
raised corn beans [illegible word] Camped on a Sand beach
on the S. Side.

Sunday 30th.. Sept. 1804.

Set off eairly. a cloudy morning. we proceeded on Saw
a Great nomber of Indians on the S. S. comming down the
river. we halted a fiew minutes and Gave them Some tobacco
& Spoke a fiew words to them, and went on under a fine
breeze of wind. towards night the waves ran & our boat
rocked So that it Skared our old Indian which was on board
He was afraid to go any further with us, and went out on
Shore in order to return to his nation. we Camped on the
N. S. of the river.

Monday 1st.. October 1804.

Set off eairly. a cloudy morning fare wind. we Sailed on
rapidly. at 9 oClock we passed dog River which comes in on
S. S. we Camped on a Sand bar in the middle of the river,
a french trador came to us from the S. Shore.

Tuesday 2 October 1804.

Set off eairly. proceeded on. passed a range of black
bluffs on N. S. and a large bottom on S. S. about 2 oClock
we discovered a nomber of Indians on the hills on N. S. one of
them came down on the bank of the river & fired off his Gun
and cryed out. we hardly new his meaning but we held ourselves
in rediness in case they Should attack us we were determined
to fight or dye. proceeded on passed a creek on the
S. S. Camped on a Sand bar in the middle of the river.

Wednesday 3rd.. Oct. 1804.

a cloudy morning, and Some rain We Set off at ½ past
7 oClock, proceeded on at 12 oClock the wind blew So hard
down the river that we Delayed untill 3 oC. then proceeded
on passed a long range of dark couloured bluffs on S. S. bottom
& Some timber on the N. S. Camped on the South Side.

Thursday 4 Oct 1804.

Set off eairly. at 9 oClock we halted for breakfast an
Indian Swam the river & came to us. proceeded on passed a
creek on S. S. called Teed creek Camped on the upper point
of an Island.

Friday 5th Oct. 1804.

Set off eairly Some whight frost last night. the day clear
and pleasant. about 11 oClock we Saw Some Goats Swimming
the river. one of our hunters Shot 4 of them. passed a creek
on the N. S. called hidden Creek. we killed a prarie wolf
Swimming in the river passed a creek on the S. S. called
whight Goat creek. Camped on the S. Side.

Saturday 6th.. Oct.

Set off eairly. clear & pleasant. about 11 oC we were
passing a bottom covered with timber on the S. S. 2 of our
hunters went out and killed 1 Elk. in this bottom a band of
the Rick a rees lived last winter. they left a nomber of round
huts covered with earth, and Some water-crafts made out of
buffaloe hides. proceeded on passed a creek on the S. S. we
Camped on a Sand beach on N. S.

Sunday 7th.. Oct. 1804.

we Set off eairly. a clear day. passed a creek on the N. S.
Goodrich and a Small River on the S. S. called Sir war [Sirwarkahna]
about 90 yards wide. at the mouth of this River is
a wintering camp of the Rickarees having about 60 lodges. we
Saw 2 of the Souix indians on the N.S. Capt. Clark killed a
Deer and a brarow. we Camped on the N. S. opposite the
head of an Island.

Monday 8th.. Oct. 1804.

we Set off eairly, a pleasant morning. we passed a run on
the S. S. called Slate run. proceeded on about 12 oClock
we passed the mouth of Marroppy [Maropa] River. we
came to the upper end of an Island where one band of the
Rick-a-rees live. we camped above the Isd. on the S. S.

Tuesday 9th.. Oct. 1804.

a Stormy day. we delayed here all day in order to counsel
with this nation their is 2 frenchmen lives with the natives.
they all appear to us verry friendly.

Wednesday 10th.. Oct. 1804.[1]

our officers held a counsel with the natives and gave them
Some presents.

Thursday 11th.. Oct. 1804.

about 12 oClock the natives came to our camp & Gave us
Some corn beans & squashes & wished our officers to Speak a
good word for them at the Mandans, for they Said they wished
to make peace.

Friday 12th.. Oct. 1804.

about 12 oclock we Set off. one of the natives went with
us, to go as far as the Mandans. we camped on the N. S.
of the River.

Saturday 13th.. Oct. 1804.

we Set off eairly clouday, about 12 oclock it rained some.
we halted 2 hours. then proceeded on untill dark and camped
on the N. S.

Sunday 14th.. Oct. 1804.

cloudy. Some rain. we Set off eairly, proceeded on passed
a creek on the S. S. campd on the N. S. nothing else extraordinary
hapened this day.

Monday 15th.. Oct. 1804.

rained all last night. we Set off eairly

Chapter V

AMONG THE MANDANS

V. November 1 1804—January 20, 1805

November thur. 1st.. 1804.[1]

THE wind blew So fresh from the South that we Could
not Get Under Way at the time appointed as the
Officers Intended falling down the the river before two
oclock P. M., to the place that the[y] wishd. to build a fort.
at dark we arivd. with the boat and Peirouges 91/2 Miles below
the 2nd.. vilage of Mandans at a piece of woods On the N. E.
Side whare we Commenced building the fort.

Friday 2nd November.

Began the works of the fort the weather continued pleasant
for 14 days during which time all the men at Camp Ocepied
thair time dilligenently in Building their huts and got them
Made comfertable in that time to live in.

Saterday 3d..

a party of hunters was Sent down the river with a peirogue
to Bring the meat whome [home] the[y] Remained 15 days,
and on the 18th.. Inst. the[y] had good Success the[y] killd. 34
deers, 10 Elks and 5 Buffelows, in all the[y] had Upwards of
20 hundred Wt. Nothing Else happnd.. Extraordinary Untill
the 30th.. Inst. a messenger from the mandans came to the fort to
Inform Our Officers that a hunting party of theirs was Robed
by the Sues & Rees Indians, on the 27th.. last, of Eight horses
and their meat that the[y] had killd., & Killd. One of their men
and wounded two Others.

the[y] Applyd. for Some Assistance from the fort which Captn.
Lewis & Clark Readly granted them. Twenty Men turnd
Out Volentary Under the Command of Captn.. Clark out of the
fort to goe to fight the Sues the Guard Seat us Across the
Missourie at Eleven Oclock at the fort the Captn. formd. his
men On the S. W. Side of the river Missourie and told them
off in Sections, from the right, and Sent out a Noncommissioned.
Officer and a file of men on Each flank to Reconitere
the woods at the distance of neerly One hundred Yds.. from the
head of Company. After a march of 6 miles we Arivd. at the
first Village of mandans, with our two Interprators One of
the mandans & one of the Grosvauinties, thinking to be Reignd.
forsd. [reinforced] by a party of Each Nation With a Detachment
from the Watesoons Nation like-ways, as they and [the]
Groce Vaunties are Nigh Neighbours to the Mandans Nation
but after we Arivd. At the Village the Cheifs of Both Nations
Concluded not to goe to fight as the weather was Cold and the
Snow Upwards of 18 Inches Deep on the Ground, before
Spring Nixt.

The Captn.. & the party halted two hours at the Village
he told the Cheifs and Warieres of the Mandans that he and
his men was on the Ground Ready to Assist them And the[y]
Should See that Him and his Men Could fight. After Some
little Conversation with the Savages, we took our leave of them
and Started for the fort we Crossd. the river between the first
& Second Village On the Ise And came whome to the fort
Arivd. at dark the Evening was cold. Each Drank Some Good
Spirits After which Revivd. Us Very Much And Retird. to Our
Rooms Each.

December 1st..

Nothing hapened Extraordinary Continued Picquiting in
the huts.

2nd.

the Big white a Cheif of the mandans Came to Our fort in
the Morning to Inform Us that the Buffelow was Close to us
a Comeing in Captn. Lewis and 15 Men turnd. Out to Shoot

them the[y] killd. 10, and the Indians Killd. 50 the two Captains
Lewis & Clark took it in turn day about with a party
Each day to goe a hunting And had Great Success until the
15 inst. that the Buffelow got neerly twenty miles off Captn.
Clark and his party Returned on the Morning of the 16th. Inst.
but Could find no game But two deer, the[y] Slept in the
woods all night Some Snow fell that made the Air warmir On
the Night of the 15th. Inst.

Monday 17 Decr.[2]

a cold day. Sergt. Gass fixed a horse Sled for one of the
N. W. Compy. traders to go to thier forts with. Some of the
Mandans come & Informed us that the buffaloe had come near
the River again.

Tuesday 18th.. Decr. 1804.

a verry cold day. 8 of the party went out to hunt, but Saw
nothing but Some goats, the N. W. Compy. tradors Set of this
morning notwithstanding the coldness of the weather.

Wednesday 19th.. Decr. 1804.

a clear pleasant day. we began to Set up the pickets of our
fort.

Thursday 20th.. Decr. 1804.

a quite warm day. the Snow melted fast. we continued on
our work as usal.

Friday 21st.. Decr. 1804.

Still pleasant and warm. we continued on our work as
usal &c.

Saturday 22nd.. Decr. 1804.

a clear pleasant warm day a great nomber of the natives
came to the fort with corn beans and moccasons to trade. they
take any trifling thing in exchange viz.—old Shirts buttons
knives awls &c &c.

Sunday 23rd.. Decr. 1804.

a clear pleasant day. we continued our work Setting up the
pickets &c.

Monday 24. Decr. 1805[4].

Some Snow fell this morning. about 10 oC cleared off a
fair day. we finished our fortifycation. in the evening our
Captains contributed to the party Some flour pepper dryed
apples &c to celebrate the Chrisstmas.

Tuesday 25th.. Decr. 1804.

we ushred [in] the morning with a discharge of the Swivvel,
and one round of Small arms of all the party. then another
from the Swivel. then Capt. Clark presented a glass of brandy
to each man of the party. we hoisted the american flag, and
each man had another Glass of brandy. the men prepared
one of the rooms and commenced dancing. at 10 oC we had
another Glass of brandy, at one a gun was fired as a Signal for
diner. half past two another gun was fired to assemble at the
dance, and So we kept it up in a jovel manner untill eight oC.
at night, all without the compy. of the female Seck, except
three Squaws the Intreptirs wives and they took no part with
us only to look on. agreeable to the officers request the
natives all Stayed at their villages all day.

Monday 31st.. Decr. 1804.

nothing particular occured Since christmas but we live in
peace and tranquillity in our fort, visited dayly by the natives
with Supplys of corn &c.

January 1st 1805. Tuesday.

2 Guns was discharged from the Swivel to celebrate the new
year, a round of Small arms immediately after by each man of
the party, a Glass of old ardent Spirits was given. a short
time after Capt. Clark gave another. about 10 oClock one of
the Intrepters & one half of the party went up to the Ist. village
of Mandans by their request to dance. Some time after
Capt. Clark and 3 more men Came up also. the day was warm
and pleasant. in the afternoon Capt. Lewis Gave another glass,
in the evening Capt. Clark & Some of the party came home &
Some Stayed all night.

Wednesday 2nd.. Jany. 1805.

Some Snow fell this morning. the rest of the men came
from the village, about 10 oClock Capt. Lewis & the rest of
the party who had not been went up to the 2nd.. village, we
danced and amused our Selves the greater part of the [day]
which pleased the natives &c. in the evening the most of the
men returned home. the natives keep their horses in their
lodges with themselves every cold night dureing the winter
Season & feed them on nothing but the branches of cotton
wood which they cut off the Bark, which is Sweet & good.
they live on it & look tollarably well.

Thursday 3rd.. Jany. 1805.

Some buffalow came near our fort, 9 men went out but
killed none of them. one of the men killed a butiful white
hair which is common in this country.

Friday 4th.. Jany. 1805.

the weather is not as cold as it was Some time past. Some
hunters went out & 3 of [them] Stayed out all night, the rest
came home. had killed one Small buffalow. in the evening
it got verry cold and the wind blew verry hard all night.

Saturday 5th.. Jany. 1805.

a cloudy cold day. the 3 hunters which who went down the
river a hunting on the 4th. Inst. returned on the 7th.. Inst. they
informed us that they had nothing the 2 first days to eat only
one wolf which they killed. they informed us that it eat very
well. they killed after that 4 Deer & 2 wolves. the weather
continued verry Cold. nothing else remarkable hapened Since
the 5th.. Instant.

Wednesday 9th.. Jany. 1805.

2 unexperienced hunters went out to day, the day proved to
be very cold & Stormey, one of them returned to the fort
about 8 oClock in the evening with one of his feet frost bit. the
other Stayed out all night, in they morning Some men were
going for them expecting they were froze, but they came in
before they started well & hearty. Some of the Natives went

in the prarie a hunting, in the evening as they were returning
one of them gave out. they left him behind. Some of his
friends or his father went after him expecting to find him a
Corps, but after they left him he came too So that he changed
his position to the woods, & broke branches to lye on, so his
life was Spared, but his feet was froze verry bad. they got
him to our fort. Capt. Lewis doctered him. Some hunters
went out the Same evening & Stayed out all night.

Friday 11th.. Jany. 1805.

2 of the hunters came to the fort had killed 3 Elk &
dressed them & took the meat to their Camp. Some other of
the hunters went lower down the river.

Saturday 12th.. Jany. 1805.

a clear cold day. Some of the men went down for the meat
with a Slide [sled] two more hunters went out to day.

Sunday 13th.. Jany. 1805.

continues clear & cold a nomber of the natives went down
the river to hunt, with our men. in the evening one of our
Intrepters & a frenchman returned who had been up the river
Some time to a nation of Indians called the osnaboins [Assiniboins]
after fur &c their guide got froze so that they had to
leave him their, & they got their faces frost bit So that the
Skin came off. this nation live near the rockey Mountains,
about 18 [80] or 90 miles from this place.

Monday 14th Jany. 1805.

Some Snow fell this morning. 6 more hunters went out to
join the rest a nomber of the natives went out also, in the
evening one of the hunters that went out fi[r]st Came to the
fort, he informed us that they had killed one buffaloe a wolf
& 2 porkapines, & I got my feet So froze that I could not
walk to the fort.

Tuesday 15th.. Jany. 1805.

warm to what it has been. the man who went to the fort
yesterday, Came down with 2 horses after me & Some meat,
the day kept warm & pleasant.

Wednesday 16th.. Jany. 1805.

quite warm for the time a year & pleasant the Snow melted
fast. I came to the fort & 2 more men with me my feet got
Some easier.

Thursday 17th. 1805.

about 3 oC. this morning the wind began to blow from the
North & began to freeze. continued cold & the wind the
Same course all day.

Friday 18th.. Jany. 1805.

clear cold weather 2 of our hunters came in had killed 4
Deer 4 wolves and one brarow. 2 men who belonged to the
N. W. Compy. that trades at the grossvauntares villages came
to our fort this day they told us that these animals we called
Brarows are a Specie of the Badgers, which are common in
Europe.

Saturday 19th.. Jany. 1805.

2 men Sent with three horses down the River for meat to
the hunting Camps, which is about 30 miles distant from the
Fort. the way they go [is] on the Ice.

Sunday 20th.. Jany. 1805.

Some men went up to the villages. they informed us that
they all used them verry well. gave them pleanty to eat, &
when they had done eating they gave a bowl of victuls to a
buffalows head which they worshiped, & Sd. Eat this So that the
live ones may come in that we may git a Supply of meat.
Some of them & indeed the most of them have Strange & uncommon
Ideas, but verry Ignorant of our forms & customs,
but quick & Sensible in their own way & in their own conceit
&c &c.[3]

Chapter VI

FROM NEAR MARTHA'S RIVER TO THE
MUSSELSHELL

VI. May 1–22, 1805

Wednesday 1st. day of May 1805

a CLEAR pleasant morning but cold. we Set off at Sun
rise, the wind from the east. we Sailed Some. we
passed high bluffs and round knobs on the S. S. and
bottoms of timber on each Side of the River. the hills in
general are not so high as they have been below, the country
more pleasant, and the timber more pleanty. about 12 oClock
the wind rose So high that we were oblidged to halt in a bottom
of timber on the South Side. one cannoe lay on the opposite
Shore & could not cross. I and one more was in the cannoe
and ware obledged to lay out all night without any blanket. it
being verry cold I Suffered verry much. Some of the party
went out to hunt. they killed one buffaloe one Deer 2 beaver
and one Goose. the party camped opposite to where I lay all
night the man who was with me killd. a Deer. (came only 10
miles to day)

Thursday 2nd.. May 1805.

at day light it began to Snow & blow So that we did not Set
off this morning. Some men went out to hunt. Killed Some
buffaloe & Some Deer. one of the party killd. two beaver last
night. the men who was out a hunting found Several peaces
of red cloath at an Indian camp, where we expect they left last
winter for a Sacrifice to their maker as that is their form of worship,
as they have Some knowledge of the Supreme being, and
anything above their comprihention they call big medicine.
about 3 oC the wind abated & quit Snowing. we Set off. proceeded

on. the [wind] had shifted and blew from the west.
the Snow lay on the Edge of the Sand beaches where the wind
blew it against the bank about 12 Inches Deep but their was
not more than about one Inch on a level. Capt. Clark & one
of the party Shot 3 beaver on the South Shore. the air verry
cold. we Camped on the N. S. at a handsom bottom partly
covered with timber. came 5 miles to day.

Friday 3rd.. May 1805.

clear but verry cold for this month. we Set off about 7 oC &
proceeded on the Standing water was froze over in places, &
forze to our poles as we were working along. a white frost
last night. the Ground is covered with Snow. the wind rose
high from the west. we halted about one oC. at a bottom
covd. with timber on the N. S. Capt. Clark who walked on
Shore Since morning came to us had killed an Elk near Some
men went & brought it in. one man went a Short distance
along the bank and Shot a beaver. we have Saw Great Sign
of beaver all day. the wind cold & high. we proceeded on
Saw a Great many buffaloe on the ridges & plains. the Snow
is all gone this evening. passed large bottoms & plains in the
course of the day but no high hills. passed a creek on the
S. S. Came 20 miles and Camped in a bottom on the N. S.
as we were a landing it being after dark Got the Irons broke
off the red perogue, which the rudder hung on. we passed a
creek towards evening on the N. S. which came in at a sand
bar. I forgot it.[1]

Saturday 4th.. May 1805.

clear & pleasant. we delayed Some time to mend the
rudder which Got broke last night. we Set off about 9 Oclock
and proceeded on. passed large bottoms covered with timber
on each Side and Smoth [smooth] high plains back from the
River. at a 11 oC. we passed the mouth of a Creek which
came in on S. Side of the Missourie. proceeded on passed a
beautiful plain on the N. S. where we Saw large Gangs of

buffaloe Elk & Cabberee or Goats. Camped in a bottom on
the N. S. Came 22 miles to dav. we killed two Deer
today.

Sunday 5th.. May 1805.

Clear and pleasant. we Set off eairly. one of the hunters,
lay on the S.S. last night, joined us at break fast-time had
killed two buffaloe Calfs. we proceeded on. Saw buffaloe
Elk Deer & goats on each side of the River. passed bottoms
and plains on each side. at, 12 oC. we Saw 4 bair on a Sand
beach on S. S. passed a handsom large plain on the N. S. we
halted to dine on the South Side at a bottom of timber. Our
officers Gave out to the party a half a Gill of ardent spirits.
we Saw buffaloe and flocks of Goats. Jo. Fields verry sick.
we proceeded on. towards evening, we killed a verry large
bair in the River. the Natives call it white but it is of a light
brown coulour the measuer of the brown bair is as follows.
round the head is three-feet 5 Inches, d°. the neck 3 feet 11
Inches, d°. the breast 5 feet 10½ inches. also round the
middle of the arm one foot 11 inches. the length from the
nose to the extremity of the hind toe is 8 feet 7½ Inches.
the length of tallons 4 feet ⅜ Inches[2] his teeth or tuskes
were allmost worn out. the toe nales ware worn Short. when
we got him to Shore we halted for the night on the N. S.
dressed the sd. brown bair found a fish in him, which he had
caught & eat. we rendred out about 6 Gallons of Greese and
did not render only a part of it he was not fat but reckened
to be about 600 weight as he was killed. one of the hunters
went out and killed an elk & Saw another bair nearly of the
Same discription. Came 16 miles this day.

Monday 6th.. May 1805.

clear pleasant and warm. the wind from the east. we Sailed
on verry well. Caught two beaver last night. Saw a brown
bair Swim the River before us. about 2 oC. we halted to dine

at a handsom bottom covered with timber on the N. S. Capt.
Clark killed an Elk, a light sprinkling of rain, but did not
last long. passed a bluff on S. S. and Some hills also. high
plains & bottoms on the N. Side and on the S. S. Came
about 27 miles in all this day, and Camped in a bottom of
timber on the S. Side. the bottoms is all trod up by the Game,
and different paths in all directions. &c. &c.

Tuesday 7th.. May 1805.

clear and pleasant. we Set off eairly. the wind rose from
the East. we Sailed on untill about 12 oC. the wind rose so
high that one of the cannoes filled with water we got it Safe
to Shore, and halted for the wind to abate on the S. Side.
Some men went out to hunt. two beaver was caught by Some
of the men last night and Shot five more at this place. about
4 oC. we Set off and proceeded on verry well. passed handsom
plains and bottoms on N. S. rough hills & ridges & bottoms
on the S. S. Saw large gangs of buffaloe on each Side of the
River. Came 15 ½ miles to day, & Camped on the S. S.
Capt. Clark and one hunter killed two buffaloe which we found
to be good meat to Eat.

Wednesday 8th.. May 1805.

we Set off eairly. clouded up and rained Some the current
Swift. we proceeded on under a fine breeze from the East,
20 mls.. by about 1 oClock then we passed the mouth of a
River on N. S. about 200 yards wide and verry deep. it is
2100 miles from the mouth of the Missourie R. to the mouth
of this River. we named this River Scolding or milk River.
we halted on the point above the mouth to dine. Some men
went a Short distance up this River. one of them killed a
deer. about 2 oClock we proceeded on passed handsom
bottoms thinly covered with timber on the River and high
beautiful high plains on the N. S. and River hills on the S. S.
Came 27 miles this day and Camped on a timbred bottom on
the S. S. one man killd. a beaver. we Saw a Great deal of
beaver Sign all Sorts of Game on each Side R.[iver]

Thursday 9th.. May 1805.

clear and pleasant. we Set off at Sun rise and proceeded on
about 9 oC. we halted to take breakfast in a beautiful Smoth
bottom thinly or partly covred with timber on the S. S. Capt.
Clark killed two deer. the Game is getting So pleanty and
tame in this country that Some of the men has went up near
enofe to club them out of their way. about one oC. we passed
the mouth of a large River which came in on the S. S. it is
at high water mark about 437 yards wide, but the water at
this Season of the year Sinques in the quick Sand So that
their is none to be Seen at the mouth. this River is called
[blank space in MS.][3] we halted to dine. Some of the
party killed two buffaloe. proceeded on passed large bottoms
covred with timber on each Side of the River Saw large gangs
of buffaloe and elk on the Side of the hills in the bottoms and
on the plains. Came 25 miles to day and Camped at the
mouth of a creek (named warners River) on the N. S. Saw
great deal of beaver Sign in the course of the day. the country
for Several days back is pleasant, the Soil good, & the Game
pleanty.

Friday 10th.. May 1805.

clear and cold. we Set of[f] about Sun rise and proceeded
on. the wind rose from the N. W. came about 4 miles and
halted for the wind to abate at a bottom covred with timber
on the S. S. where the beaver had eat down considerable of a
peace of Small timber Several of the party went out to hunt
the wind rose high Some Squawls of rain. one of the men
caught a nomber of fish. the hunters killed 1 fat buffaloe 4
beaver, and 3 Deer. Some of them Saw Some mooce Deer
which was much larger than the common deer. our officers
Inspected our arms &c. Camped here for the night.

Saturday 11th.. May 1805.

a clear cold morning, a white frost last night. Some of the
party caught 2 beaver last night. we Set off eairly, and proceeded
on passed black bluffs on the S. S. and hills on each

Side partly covred with low ceeder. we Saw large gangs of
buffaloe in the bottoms on Each Side of the River. towards
evening one of the party wounted a brown bair, and was
chased by it to the perogues. Several hunters went to his
assistance and killed it it was nearly of the same discription
as the other we killed Several days ago. we fount it fat and
good meat. Capt. Clark who walked on Shore killed 2 buffaloe
and 2 deer (one beaver also). one of the men killd.
another buffaloe. we Saw hills on the N. S. partly covred
with pitch pine the first we have Seen. the country begins
to be hilley and broken, but verry rich Soil the bottoms on
the River chiefly covred with cottonwood timber, which is
filled with Game Some Smoth plains under the hills covred
with wild hysop. we came 17 miles and Camped on the
South Side before night on account of dressing the bair, which
detained us untill night &c. passed 2 or 3 small runs to
day, &c.

Sunday 12th.. May 1805.

a clear pleasant warm morning. we Set off Soon after Sun
rise and proceeded on. passed the pitch pine hills on the
N. S. one of the hunters killed a deer in a bottom on the S. S.
Capt. Clark killed a beaver in the River. passed a Small River
on the N. S. the wind rose high from the N. W. we halted
about one oC. to dine on the S. S. opposite the lower point
of an Island covred with willows in the middle of the River.
the wind detained us the remainder of the day. Some men
went out hunting & killed Some Elk & Deer. Camped for
the night. had come [blank space in MS.] miles this day.
Squwls of rain this evening. &c.

Monday 13th.. May 1805.

the wind blew hard all last night. Some rain high wind and
Squawls of rain this morning, So that we did not Set off eairly.
Some men went out hunting and killed Several Elk and deer.
about 2 oC. p. m. the weather cleared off pleasant. the wind
abated and we Set off Some of the hunters had not returned.
we proceeded on the current Swift passed hills on each Side
which make near the River only the bottoms on the points &

in the bends. came 9 miles and camped in a bottom on S. S.
the hunters joined us one of them had wounded a white or
brown bear. we passed a creek at the lower end of this
bottom, the Current verry Swift in the Missourie, came
about 9 miles this day.

Tuesday 14th.. May 1805.

a hard white frost last night. our mocasons froze near the
fire. a clear and pleasant morning. we Set off at Sun rise
and proceeded on passed the mouth of a large creek on N. S.
named [blank space in MS.][4] and a Small willow Island ab v
the mouth of Sd. creek we Saw verry large gangs of buffaloe,
on N. S. high rough black hills on each Side of the River.
Some Spots of pitch pine on the hills on each Side of the
River. about 1 oC. we halted to dine at [a] timbred bottom
on the S. S. Capt. Clark killed a buffaloe about 2 oC. we
proceeded. we had passed the mouth of a large creek this
fore noon on S. S. Sergt. Gass Saw Some banks of Snow on
the N. Side of Some hills. about 4 oClock P. M. we passed
the mouth of a large creek on S. S. 100 yards wide at high
water mark. we proceeded on at 5 oC. we Saw a verry large
brown bear on the hills on S. S. Six men went from the
cannoes to kill him they fired at him and only wounded
him he took after them and chased 2 men in to a cannoe.
they Shoved off in the River and fired at him Some of the
men on Shore wounded him worse he then chased one man
down a Steep bank in to the River and was near gitting hold
of him, but he kept up Stream So that the bear could not git
up to him. one of the men on Shore Shot the bear in the
head, which killed him dead after having nine balls Shot in
him. we got him to Shore and butchered him. his feet was
nine Inches across the ball, and 13 in length, nearly of the
Same discription of the first we killed only much larger his
nales was Seven Inches long &c. the two captains ware out on
Shore after a verry large gang of buffaloe the white perogue
of the captains hoisted Sail as the wind blew fair. a violent
Storm of wind arose from a black cloud in the N. W. the

wind shifted in[to] N. W. and took the Sail of a Sudden and
had it not been for the eairning [awning] and mast She would
have turned up side down. She filled ful of water with
much trouble they got her to Shore and unloaded hir found
that the most of the loading was wet the Medicine Spoiled
or damaged very much Some of the paper and nearly all the
books got wet, but not altogether Spoiled. we opened all the
loading, on the bank and Camped at a bottom covred with
timber on the N. S. our officers gave each man a draghm of
ardent Spirits, Came 18½ miles this day. (1 man wounded
another bear).

Wednesday 15th.. May 1805.

cloudy. we delayed to dry the goods which was wet, opened
them but Soon had to cover them again for a Shower of rain which
lasted about one hour, then we opened them again. Several
men out a hunting, they all returned towards evening. had
killed one buffaloe 7 Deer and 4 beaver. Stayed here all day
& dressed Skins &c.

Thursday 16th.. May 1805.

a heavy diew last night a clear pleasant morning. we
opened the goods &c. in order to get them dry before we
packed them up. Some of the men wounded a large panther
in this bottom, as he was coverring up a deer which he had
killed not long before. about 12 oClock Sergt. Ordway killed
a cabberree or antelope, a Specie of our goats. one of the
party killed another which was mired in the mud. about one
oC. we packed up our goods and loaded the officers perogue.
about 3 oClock P. M. we set off and proceeded on. passed
high broken hills & round knobs on each Side of the River and
narrow bottoms. passed a Small willow Island near the N. S.
we halted a fiew minutes at a bottom on N. S. and killed 2 buffaloe,
3 Deer and one buffaloe calf. Camped on the S. S. at a
bottom covered with timber. came 7 miles to day.

Friday 17th.. May 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set off eairly and proceeded
on. passed high broken whiteish couloured hills, which wash

by rain, and make close to the River on each Side, the bottoms
high and narrow. Some Spots of pitch pine on and between
the hills on each Side, but the cottonwood gits Scarser. we
Saw large gangs of Elk, but a fiew buffaloe. Saw a number of
geese and goslings on the river. about 2 oC. we halted to dine
at a Small bottom on S. S. where there was Some old Indian
Camps. about 3 oC. P. M. we proceeded on towards evening
we killed a brown bear, the first femal that we killed we
passed a creek on the S. S., & verry high rough naked hills on
each Side all this day. we Came 20 ¼ miles and Camped on a
narrow plain on the South Side. Killed 2 Elk.

Saturday 18th.. May 1805.

a clear warm morning. one of the party killed a rattle
snake. another caught a beaver. about 7 oC. we Set [out]
and proceeded on. passed Some narrow bottoms of timber &
covered with rose bushes. about 10 oC. clouded up and began
to rain. we had Several Small Showers. about 12 oC capt.
Clark killed a fat deer. we halted to dine and dry our Selves
at a large bottom covered with timber on N. S. this bottom
is filled with buffaloe Elk Deer &c one of the party killed 2
Elk. another killed a beaver. about 2 we proceeded on the
weather cleared up and we had a pleasant afternoon the River
water is gitting clear and gravelly bottom &c. we came 19
miles and Camped at a Smooth high bottom on S. S. N. B.
(Capt. Clark killed three deer)

Sunday 19th.. May 1805.

a heavy diew fell last night. a clear pleasant morning. we
Set off as usal and proceeded on passed pitch pine hills on
each Side of the river. about 10 oClock we killed a Small
female brown bear on S. S. we took on board the meat & Skin
and proceeded on. about 1 oC. we halted to dine at a bottom
on the N. Side. Capt. Clark killed 3 Deer. about 2 we proceeded
on passed a handsom willow Island near the N.S. of
River. passed pitch pine & ceeder hills as usal, & bottoms
of timber on each Side of the River. we Came about 18
Miles and Camped at a bottom on the N. Side, where Capt.
Lewis killed an Elk & Some of the men killed 3 Deer. Some
of the hunters killed 3 beaver to day.

Monday 20th.. May 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set off as usal. one of the
hunters caught a beaver last night. abt. nine oC. we passed the
mouth of a Creek on the S. S. and a handsom bottom of c.[otton]
wood timber. one of the hunters killed a Deer another
killed a beaver. we proceeded on passed pitch pine & ceeder
hills on each Side [of the] River. about 11 oClock, we arived
at the mouth of Mussell Shell River on the S. S. this River is
110 yards wide and the Missourie 222 yards wide at this place,
and 2271 miles from the mouth of the Missourie River. we
encamped here on the point between the 2 rivers which is
a large bottom covered with C. wood timber. we delayed
here all day for observations &c. found the latitude 47°, 24′
North the hunters killed at this place Eight Deer 4 Elk one
woolf and remained here all the afternoon & Camped for the
night 2 men Stayed out hunting beaver all night. we came
only 6 miles this morning.

Tuesday 21st.. May 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. the 2 men returned who Stayed
out all night had caught one beaver & killed a Deer. they
Swam across the Mussel Shell River before Sun rise. Soon
after we Set off. another beaver was caught we proceeded on.
passed timbred bottoms & hilly land on each Side, but the
River hills are not So high, as they were for Some distance below.
Some of the party yesterday discovered a high range of
mountains to the west, a long distance off. we Saw Some old
Indian Camps in a timbred bottom on N. S. where Capt. Clark
killed an Elk. about 1 oC. P. M. we halted to dine at a handsom
timbred bottom on the South Shore. one of the hunters
killed an Elk. the wind rose So high from the N. W. that we
delayed about 2 hours and proceeded on passed bottoms & pine
hills as usal. Came about 15 Miles and Camped on a large
Sand beach on N. S. one of the hunters killed a buffaloe another
killed a beaver. the wind rose verry high Soon after we
Camped, and made the Sand fly So that it was verry disagreeable
the most of the party moved back towards the hills.

Wednesday 22nd.. May 1805.

the wind blew hard all last night (caught 2 beaver last night)
and continues blowing this morning. Cloudy. about 11 oC.
A. M. the wind abated So that we Set off and proceeded on
passed a Small Island near N. S. and one Near the S. Side. the
River hills make near the River. passed black bluffs the pitch
pine close along Sd. bluffs to the bank of the River. passed a
Creek on the N. S. we wounded a brown bear in the River.
abt. 2 oC. we halted to dine at a handsom timbred bottom on
the N. S. a cold chilly day. towards evening Some of the
hunters killed a large brown bear. we Saved the Skin & greese.
we Camped on the N. S. Came 16½ Miles to day. Sergt.
Ordway and one of the hunters killed a large buffaloe.

Chapter VII

FROM THE MUSSELSHELL TO MARIA'S
RIVER

VII. May 23–June 7, 1805

Thursday 23rd May 1805.

a COLD frosty morning. the Standing water was froze
over. we Set off at Sun rise and proceeded on one of
the hunters who went on Some distance & Stayed out
all [night] joined us, had killed 5 deer. we passed bottoms
killed [blank space in MS.] Deer in Sd. bottoms passed pitch
pine hills on each Side of the River. passed Several Small
Islands in the River. about 2 oC. P.M. we halted and made
fire to dine at a timbred bottom on N. S. one of the hunters
took his rifle & bullett pouch on Shore the fire broke out
into the woods, and burned up his shot pouch powder horn &
the stalk of his rifle. about 3 oC we proceeded on passed pine
hills as usal. towards evening we killed a brown bear in the
river but he Sank in under a large drift of wood So that we
could not git it. we Came 28 miles to day and Camped at a
timbred bottom on the N. S. Some of the party discovered
high Mountains to the west of us a long distance or as far off
as their eyes could extend L. S.

Friday 24th.. May 1805.

clear & pleasant. we Set off as usal, & and proceeded on
passed Several Creeks & Several Small Islands in the river
passed pitch pine hills & timbred bottoms on each Side. about
3 oClock P. M. we halted to dine at a Small & narrow bottom
covered with timber on N. S. Capt. Clark who walked on Shore
had killed a fat buffaloe Some of the party went for the meat,
high black bluffs on the S. S. & a large creek which came

in a Short distance below. the wind from the S.E. So that
we Sailed Some part of the time about 4 we proceeded on.
2 canoes waited for the five men to come with the meat.
Came 24 ¾ miles to day and Camped at a bottom covered with
c. wood timber [of] which the leaves were dead. they had
been killed by the frost. the 2 canoes & 6 men Stayed behind
all night. we Saw a nomber of old Indian Camps in the
bottoms near the River.

Saturday 25th May 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we waited for the 2 canoes to
come up. about 7 oC. they came. then we Set off and proceeded
on. passed 2 creeks on the N. S. and one large one on
the S. S. passed 2 Small Islands before noon about 12 oC.
we passed a large handsom large Island covered with handsom
c. wood timber, near the N. S. Saw Several Eagles nests.
passed high bluffs & knobs and hills partly covred with pitch
pine timber on each Side of the R. the wind blew from the
N. W. about 3 oClock we halted to dine on a beautiful level
thin timbred Island near the N. S. of the River. Capt. Clark
and one man who walked on Shore joined us had killed two
Mountain Sheep, one a yew the other a ram. the ram had
large horns which turned back of a gradual taper, they have
the resemblence of our Sheep only fine brownish hair in Stead
of wool. they were poor and not as large as the natives represented,
but these are the first we have killed. about 4 oC.
P. M. we proceeded on the current has been verry Swift for
Several days. we passed river hills as usal. passed Several
Creeks in the course of the day. Came 18 miles to day and
Camped on the S. S. little above a high handsom Island in the
river mostly prarie only a little large timber at the upper end
of it. Gibson one of the hunters putt one of his Shoulders out
of place to day but got it in again.

Sunday 26th.. May 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set off eairly and proceeded
on. with the towing line under high bluffs which make near
the River on each Side & are verry Steep & barron. Some

Spots of pine, but the most of the knobs and river hills wash
by rains. passed high Clifts of Sand Stone on each Side.
passed Several Creeks which appeared to be large, Some on
each Side. passed Several Small Islands in the river. Some
of the hunters killed 2 mountain Sheep or Ibex as Capt. Clark
calls them which were running along in flocks where the bluffs
were to appearence nearly perpenticular we Suppose they
keep on high Steep clifts & bluffs & mountains in order to
keep out of the reach of other larger animals they are verry
Suple & run verry fast. one of these Ibex which was killed to
day, had verry large horns. the head & horns weighed 27
pounds, one of the hunters killed a hare which weighed 8 ½
pounds. we proceeded on with the towing lines all day
towards evening we Came to a rapid place in the river, where
the hills made close on each Side & high clifts of rocks. this
rapid had considerable of a fall, which gave us Some trouble to
git over our crafts but by towing & waiding in the water &
holding the canoes from filling in the waves, we all got Safe
over by dark, and Camped on the S. Side below a Small prarie
1st. at a Small bottom of timber where their was Several old
Indian Camps. Capt. Lewis & one of the hunters killed 2
buffaloe. we Came 22 miles this day.

Monday 27th.. May 1805.

pleasant weather. the wind high from the N. W. about
10 oC. we Set off and proceeded on with the towing lines.
the current verry Swift. passed a great nomber of rapid places.
passed verry high Steep mountains and clifts Steep precipices.
these mountains appear to be a desert part of the country. they
wash by rains, but a little rain in this part. no diews like
other parts but barron broken rich Soil but too much of a
desert to be inhabited, or cultivated. Some Spots of pitch &
Spruce pine. the game is Scarcer than it has been. no grass
nor timber for them to live in, but what Ibex or Mountain
Sheep, Elk deer &c [there are] live on what little grass their is
in the vallies and narrow plains on [the] river, which is covered
with wild hysop rose bush & Some grass. Some different
kinds of mint along the Shore. Saw mussel Shells also. the

Shore is Stoney & gravvelly. no falling in banks but the
creeks drive the earth and gravvel in Some distance in the river
which causes the most of the hard riffles, which we have had all
day and had to double man our perogues to git them over Safe.
one mountain ram or Ibex killed to day. we Came 13 mls.. to
day, and Camped at an old Indian Camp on the S. Side [of]
River we are 800 & 10 miles from the Mandans, 2415 [from
the Mouth of the Missouri].

Tuesday 28th.. May 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set off and proceeded on.
passed over hard riffles. the Bluffs & clifts are high [word
illegible] as yesterday. abt. 10 oC. Capt. Clark killed a mountain
Sheep & [figure illegible] Deer. about noon we halted
to dine near Some old Indian Camps. Some thunder & Small
Showers of rain which lasted about 2 hours. we then proceeded
on a pleasant afternoon. towards evening the hills
began to git lower passed large bottoms, partly covered with
c. wood timber. passed Several Islands 7 or 8 in the course
of the day, Some of them handsom groves of timber on
them. we passed a nomber of large Creeks on each Side of
the river, which force the Gravvel Stone from the hills in to
the river. we Came 21 ½ miles & Camped in a bottom of the
river on the N. S. a large Creek came in on the opposite
Shore. we Saw a gang of Elk in this bottom, & beaver Signs
[along] the Shores. a large bottom on the S. Side. we found
an Indians (?) foot ball floating down the river & dog poles
also.

Wednesday 29th.. May 1805.

Some clouday. a large buffaloe Swam the river last night,
and came out across one of the perogues & broke a blunderbuss,
& bent a rifle & came up the bank through the Camp
& like to have tramped on Several of the men as they were
a Sleep. we Set off as usal & proceeded on. passed the
Mouth of a large Creek or 2, on the S. S. & bottoms of
timber. about 10 oC. A. M. we passed a handsom bottom
on the N. S. where about 100 lodges of Indians had lately

been camped. we Suspect it was a nation called the blackfoot
Indians which live back from the River, to the Northward.
we got Some of their dog poles. we proceeded on passed
over hard rifles which was So rapid that caused high waves for
Some distance below. passed Several Creeks on each Side of
the river. about one oC. P. M. we passed high Steep clifts
of rocks on the N. S. where the natives had lately drove a
gang of buffaloe off from the plains. they fell So far on the
uneven Stone below that it killed them dead. they took what
meat they wanted, & now the wolves & bears are feasting on
the remains, which causes a horrid Smell. Capt. Clark killed
a wolf with a Sphere [spear] near that place. we Saw Several
brown bear on the mountains on the S. Side. about 3 oC.
P. M. we passed the mouth of a large Creek or Small river
on S. S. we halted [a] little above at a handsom bottom of
timber on the N. S. began to rain, the wind rose high from
N. W. So we Camped for the night. Some of the hunters
went out in the plains. they Soon returned & Said it Snowed
& hailed on the hills back from the river. our officers gave
each man a draughm of ardent Spirits. one of the hunters
killed an Elk. hard rain this evening. we had come 18
miles to day through a Mountaneous desert Country. Saw
a nomber of geese on the river. one man killed one of them.

Thursday 30th.. 1805.

Cloudy & rain, the wind high from the N. W. we delayed
untill about 10 oC. then Set off, though disagreeable
working. passed white Straight range of Clifts on the S. S.
proceeded on with the towing lines about 5 miles & halted to
dine on the N. S. Some of the hunters Shot an Elk. cold
chilly wind & rain. passed a Camp wher 29 lodges of the
blackfoot Indians had lately been & left piles of mussel Shells
at each fire. Came 8 miles. we Camped at a handsom narrow
bottom covered with thin c. wood timber, where 50 or 60
lodges of Indians had lately been Camped. they were gone
as we expect up the river. they left Several lodge poles &
considerable of fire wood gathered. 2 of the hunters went
across the river on the hill & killed 2 buffaloe.

Friday 31st.. May 1805.

cloudy. we Set off as usal. the canoes crossed the river
& the men went for the meat which was killed last nigh.
one of the hunters killed an Elk. we proceeded on. abt
11 oC. began to rain, rained moderately for Some time. we
passed verry high clifts of rocks, halted at 12 oC. to dine.
our Captains gave each man a draughm of Spirits as it was
wet. Capt. Lewis killed a fat buffaloe, & Some of the hunters
killed 2 more but lost one of them in the river. abt. 1 oC.
we proceeded on passed high white clifts of rocks & Some
pinecles [pinnacles] which is 100 feet high from the Surface
of the water. Some verry high black walls of Stone also on
each Side of the river, which is curious to see. we Saw a
brown bear on the N. S. Some of the hunters went out in
order to kill it. passed Straight white clifts of rocks on the
S. Side Came 17 ½ miles & Camped at a handsom bottom
covered with c. wood timber on the N. S. which was the first
timber we Saw to day except a fiew Scatering trees along the
Shore and a fiew ceeders on the hills. the current has been
Swift all this day. the hunters came in at dark had killed 1
black taild Deer 2 Ibex or mountain Sheep (rams) which had
handsom large horns. we took care of the horns in order to
take them back to the U. States. a pleasant evening. (one
man Saw a large pond or Small lake, out in the plains on
South Side.)

Saturday 1st.. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning we Set off eairly & proceeded on.
passed Steep clifts of white rocks which had villages of little
birds, built along the projecting rocks. one of the party killed
a Mountain ram or Ibex which had fine horns. we passed
handsom bottoms of c. wood & box elder timber on each Side.
Saw old Indian Camps at a bottom on N. S. passed a Creek
on N. S. & Straight bluffs. passed Several Small Islands.
about one oC. P. M. we passed a beautiful large Island covered
with large & Small timber Saw Some Elk on it. the hills
& bluffs are not So high on the river as they have been for
Some time. about 2 oC. we halted to dine and air our goods

&c. the wind rose from the S. E. the river bears to the
South, handsom baron plains back from the river. we Saw
Mountains a Short distance from the river on the N. S. and
on the S. S. at a considerable distance up the river. about
3 oC. we proceeded on passed a Creek on the N. S. passed
Several Islands covered with timber. passed a Straight clift
of rocks Steep from the Surface of the water about 100 feet
perpinticular, pass dd handsom high plains on each Side. Came
24 miles & Camped on the 7th. Isld. a Small Island covered with
timber. had passd. 2 [a] little below.

Sunday 2nd.. June 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set off as usal & proceeded
on. about 9 oC. Some of the hunters killed a buffalow and
an Elk. passed high bluffs on each Side, high plains, narrow
bottoms and Islands. passed a creek on the N. S. and one on
the S. Side about 12 oC. killed another Elk. about 1 oC.
we halted to dine at a bottom of timber on the N. S. Some
of the men killed another buffaloe. the wind high from the
N.W. clouded up. the current is not So Swift yesterday
& to day as it has been Some time past. we git along verry
well with the towing lines. a Small Sprinkling of rain. about
2 oC. we proceeded on passed Several Islands of cotton wood
bluffs & high land towards evening the hunters killed a yallow
bear in a bottom of cotton wood on S. S. we Came 18 miles
& Camped at a fork of the river. we could not determine
which was the Missourie. the hunters killed 6 Elk in all
to day. we Saw a high mountain to the west of us. one
hunter man Shot a large beaver this evening.

Monday 3rd.. June 1805.

a fair morning. we delayed untill 8 oClock then moved our
Camp over to the point between the two rivers. two Small
canoes were unloaded and a Sergeant and 2 men I was one of
them Sent in each up the 2 rivers to See what discoveries they
could make. Some men went out a hunting also. their is 3
Islands in the Mo. [of the] left hand river, which is the largest
& Swiftest river. Some men went out towards a mountain

covred with Snow to the South of this place. the Captains
walked out on the high hills in the point they observed a
level country to the foot of the mountain which lay South of
this also a River which falls in to the right hand fork about
1 ½ miles up from the mouth on the Lard. Side. This little
River discharges a great deal of water & contains as much
cotton timber as either of the others. they Saw buffalow &
antilopes, wild cherries red & yallow berrys goose berrys
&c. abound in the river bottoms, prickley pairs on the high
plains the Captains had a Meridian altitude & the Latitude
produced was 47°, 24′, 12″ North, the after part of the day
proved cloudy. Capt. Clark measured the [width of] each
River & found the one to the right hand to be 186 yards wide
of water and the left hand fork 372 yards wide & rapid, the
right hand fork falling [into] the other at a Stand & clear.
the right hand fork & the river which fall[s] into it is couloured,
and a little muddy. Several of the party complain of their feet
being Sore by their walking in the Sand & cut by the Stones.
we to be Sure have a hard time of it oblidged to walk on Shore
& haul the towing line and 9/10 of the time barefooted. in the
evening the men all returned had been about 15 miles up each
river but could not determine which was the Missourie, nor
which would be our best course. our officers & all the men
differ in their opinions which river to take. we expect the
right hand fork would take us too far to the North, the left
hand fork we expect heads in the mountains. however the
officers conclude to leave the party here, and go by land with
a Small party up each river, in order to find out which will be
the best for us to take. the hunters killed 4 buffaloe 3 Elk
3 beaver & Deer &c. the Captn. Gave each man a dram of
ardent Spirits. I killed 2 Elk myself to day, as I was up the
left fork as a Spye.

Tuesday 4th.. June 1805.

Capt. Lewis & 6 men Set out to go up the Right hand fork.
Capt. Clark & 5 more Set out to go up the left hand fork.
they intend to go about one day & a halfs walk up the rivers
& See what discoveries they can make. Some of the men at

camp killed 2 faun Elk close by the camp for their Skins, to
dress. the day proved cloudy. a fiew drops of rain towards
evening, & high cold wind from the N. E. 2 men who had
been from camp a hunting returned had killed an Elk & a
Deer, & had Set 2 traps for beaver. cloudy all day.

Wednesday 5th.. June 1805.

the wind blew high from the N.E. all last night. a cloudy
cold windy morning. one beaver caught in a trap last night.
I Stayed in Camp dressing Skins for to make myself moccasons
&c. one of the men by the name of goodrich has caught a
considerable quantity of Small fish. Some of them Skale fish
the most part are a sort of Smallish sized cat fish. we have
caught no large ones this Season as we did last as yet &c.

Thursday 6th.. June 1805.

a cold cloudy morning. the wind blew cold from the N. E.
Some of the men went from Camp a Short distance and killed
2 buffalow one fat Elk 2 Deer 1 mule & one common Deers,
2 antilopes &c. a light Sprinkling of rain to day. about 2
oClock P.M. Capt. Clark & his party returned to Camp. they
informed us that the South fork is the most probable branch
to our course which Capt. Clark alowed we would take. they
had been about 40 miles up the South fork. when they got
about 8 miles from our Camp they found a beautiful Spring of
water, where the Small river was not more than 200 yards
from the South fork. they refreshed themselves at the Spring
with a drink of good grog. they Saw but little game on this
river. they passed through high plains, where nothing groes
but Short grass & prickley pears. the course of the river as
far as they went about S. W. they Saw a mountain to the
South of them covred with Snow. one of the men by the
name of Jo Fields was att[a]c[ke]d by an old hea bear, which
would have killed him if the rest of the party had not been in
hearin to have fired at him which made him turn his course.
they killed 3 bear & eat a part of one of them, & returned by
way of the middle branch which they came down & killed in its
bottoms a nomber of fat Elk Deer & Saw wolves antelopes &

beaver &c. the bottoms of this middle river is like thee
bottoms below the forks, covered with timber. Some cotton
trees with a leaf like the leaf of cherry. they Saw wild tanzey
&c. Capt. Lewis & party did not return this evening. the
party has been employed dressing Skins &c.

Friday 7th.. June 1805.

rained the greater part of last night. a Cloudy wet morning.
Some men went out to hunt, and killed 2 Deer, rained
moderately all day. Capt. Lewis & his party has not returned
yet. we expect the reason is owing to the badness of the
weather. nothing further occured this day.

Chapter VIII

FROM MARIA'S RIVER TO THE GREAT FALLS
OF THE MISSOURI

VIII. June 8–20, 1805

Saturday 8th.. June 1805.

SOME cloudy. the wind blew cold from the S. W. Several
men went out to hunt. about 9 oC. cleared off
pleasant. the Indian goods &c put out to air. we Saw
the high mountain to the west of us covered with Snow. the
South fork of the Missourie is high & of a yallow coulour to
day, & the North fork more white & rile than before, owing as
we expect to the rains & Snow melting above, on the mountains.
about 3 oClock P. M. Capt. Lewis & party returned to
Camp, & Informed us that they had been about 60 miles distant
up the north fork, had traveled through high plains the
greater part of the way. they found that the N. fork keeps its
bigness, pleanty of water, considerable of timber in the bottoms
& an amence cite [sight] of game. they killed a great deal of
Elk Buffalow Deer &c. &c. but Capt. Lewis thinks that the
N. fork bears too far North for our course to cross the Mountains,
for if we Should take the wrong River, we Should have
more mountains to cross & further to go by land to git to the
Columbia River, which we have to descend to the west. So
the Capts.. conclude to take the South fork & proceed, and
named the North fork River Mariah, but it has the resemblence
of the Missourie below the forks in everry respect, & the
middle fork they name Tanzey River the water &c. of which
resembles the Missourie also. the men in Camp generally employed
Dressing Skins &c. towards evening the hunters all
returned had killed sevl. Elk 13 deer and one beaver. the
wind blew from the East, a light Shower of rain this evening.

Sunday 9th.. June 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. 2 men of the hunters went out
& killed a verry fat buffalow. took Eight men to bring in the
meat. Several men Sent out to the bluffs back in the point, to
dig a hole called a Cash to burry Some of the articles which we
can Spare best, So that we might have them Safe when we come
back &c. the wind rose high from the west. towards evening
we had a frolick. the officers gave the party a dram, the fiddle
played and they danced late &c. we had a light Shower of
rain late in the evening. rope works made.

Monday 10th.. June 1805.

a beautiful pleasant morning. the party employed Some
makeing a towing line for the white perogue, others employed
digging another hole So that we might bury in different places
what we left So that if the Savages Should find one perhaps
they would not find the other & we would have Some left Still.
about 10 oClock we halled up the red perogue on an Island, on
the North Side of the N. fork which was covered with Small
cotton timber. we halled it among the thicke[st] of trees &
ran the bow between two & pined hir on each Side & covered
hir over with bushes, & Secured hir as well as possable, branded
Several trees with the U. S. mark & Capt. M. Lewis & Latd. &c.
The black Smiths fixed up the bellowses & made a main
Spring to Capt. [Lewis's] air Gun, as the one belonging to it got
broke. the articles which we Intend to bury all got ready. the
loading which came out of the red perogue divided out to the
White perogue & canoes & loaded them. put a Canister of
powder & led accordingly in the ground near the point, between
the two Rivers at our Camp. about 4 oClock P. M. we had
a light Shower of rain. the evening pleasant.

Tuesday 11th.. June 1805.

a Clear pleasant morning. about 8 oClock Capt. Lewis,
George Drewyer, G. Gibson, Jo. Fields & Silas Goodrich Set
out for the South Snowey mountain. we put in the carsh or

hole 1 keg of powder 1 bar led, 1 keg flour 1 keg pork 2 kegs
parched meal the bellowses & tools augur plains Saw &c. some
tin cups a dutch oven, a corn hand mill, packs of beaver, bear
Skins horns Buffalow Robes &c. &c. the Blacksmiths compleated
repairing the fire arms. the carsh or hole on the high
land dug deeper and compleated burrying the heavey articles
&c. we got in readiness to ascend the South fork. we have
caught more Small fish Since we lay here than we made use of,
and one kind of Small flat Scale fish that we never Saw the
kind before.

Wednesday 12th.. June 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we burryed 3 traps which was forgot
yesterday, and Set out about 7 oClock from Camp or
point Deposit 2508 ¼ mls.. from mouth, and proceeded on up
the South fork which we Still call the Missourie R. passed a
great nomber of Islands (5 or 6 at least by noon) before we
had got out of cite of the point, which was covered with cotton
timber. one of the party caught a beaver on one of them in a
trap which he Set last night. passed high black & yallow bluffs
on each Side & handsom Smooth plains on each Side. Saw
Elk antelopes & Geese &c. found Some penerial [pennyroyal]
the first we Saw on the River. the current verry Rapid. three
of the (G. D.)[1] canoes like to have overset & one in great danger.
Several Rattle Snakes has been Seen by the party to day.
one man took hold of one with his hand, which was in a bunch
of bushes, but luckily he escaped being bit. Our Intrepters
wife verry Sick. Capt. Clark killed this evening one Elk & a
Deer. Some other of the hunters killed 1 or 2 more. we
passed in the course of the day a number of gravvelly Islands
& bars. the Shore on each Side is covered with Stone of different
Sizes. we Came 18 miles to day & Camped at a handsom
bottom of cotton wood on the N. Side, where the Elk & Deer
was killed.

Thursday 13th.. June 1805.

a beautiful pleasant morning. we Set out at an eairly hour
& proceeded on. passed the Mouth of a Small River on the
South Side about 50 yards wide & rapid current & of a
muddy coulour. I went over the River to See it. large bottoms
of cotton timber for Some distance up. we named it
Snowey River, as we expect it comes from the Snowey Mountain,
to the South of us. passed verry high bluffs on each Side
Some Small bottoms of cotton timber we Saw abundance of
wild or choke cherries & a kind of yallow current, Such as I
never Saw before. the Goose berrys are now ripe & abound
in the River bottoms. we came 14 miles to day & Camped
on the South Side. I was taken verry Sick to day, & a violent
head ack. 2 deer & [word illegible] buffalow killed to day.

Friday 14th.. June 1805.

a fare pleasant morning. 2 men lay out all last night, which
walked on Shore one [with] a lame hand the other 2 sick.[2]
we proceeded on. passed the place where Capt. Lewis had
camped as he went up. had left 2 bear Skins & fat one Deer
Skin which they had killed. 2 of the men lay by it last night.
at breakfast we came up to the other man which had killed
2 buffalow & a deer. we proceeded on passed verry high
bluffs on each Side, & Several Islands of cotton timber. the
current verry rapid all day. our Intrepters wife verry Sick &
I am verry Sick myself. about 4 oC. P. M. we met one man
which Capt. Lewis Sent back to meet us. he informed us that
he came from the falls today, & that they were verry bad, &c.
about 20 miles from us above, & that Capt. Lewis & the other
three men was a going to the head of the falls, in order to
examine how far it was before we could take water again. we
went 10 miles to day through a verry rapid current, and
Camped at a Small bottom on the Lard Side. we Saw a nomber
of dead buffalow floating down the River which we expect
was killed in the falls.

Saturday 15th.. June 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out at the usal hour.
proceeded on. passed the rapidest water I ever Seen any
crafts taken through, at noon we halted at the Mouth of a
creek on the Lard. Side which we named Strawberry creek,
their being a great quantity of Strawberry vines about it. a
handsom rapid Stream, the bottoms of it coverd. with Small
cotton timber. 2 of the hunters went a Short distance up this
Stream & killed 2 Deer. choak cherrys, Goose berrys and
yallow currents abound on the banks of the Streams in this
country. the afternoon verry warm. we proceeded on.
passed redish couloured bluffs on each Side of the River which
were high rough & in places clifts of dark Rocks. in the
evening we came to a bad rapid which we concluded to not
undertake to pass untill morning. So we Camped below
on the Stard. Side. the wood here Scarse. one man Sent to
the falls, for Capt. Lewis. we Came only 12 miles to day by
exerting our Selves as much as possable with the towing line.

Sunday 16th.. June 1805.

we had a Shower of rain & high wind the fore part of last
night. a clear morning. all hands went over the Rapids 1st
with the canoes about 1 mile & then went back and took up
the perogue, and halted to wait the arival of Capt. Lewis, &c.
their being a rapid a Short distance above which is impossable
to pass with loaded crafts. we caught a considerable quantity
of Small flat Scale fish at this place. about 12 oC. Capt. Lewis
& the men who accompanied him joined us. Capt. Lewis informed
us that he had been 15 miles up the River above the
first bad Rapids or Shoot & that the falls continued all that
distance in 5 different Shoots, but Some higher than the rest,
but the highest about 50 feet perpenticular & verry Rapid
water between each Shoot roling waves & white brakers. Capt.
Lewis informed us that the Lard. Side would be the best for us
to carry our goods and baggage by the falls, also the canoes.
So we crossed over to the Lard. Side and unloaded the canoes
& crossed them back to the Stard. Side empty and towed them

up the rapid about a mile. then crossed them back to the
Lard. Side again, in order that we might git them up a Small
River which comes in below the next Shoot to a more convenient
place to git them up the bank on to the plains. this little
River comes in on Lard. Side close below the next Shoot.
opposite to the mouth of this little River on S. S. a beautiful
Sulpher or mineral Spring rises out of the Side hills. it is a
verry Strong Sulpher water. we git & drink freely of it. in
the bottoms is a considerable of wild flax growing all in blossum.
Capt. Lewis's party had prepared & dryed buffalow meat
and had caught & dryed a large quantity of fine fish, which we
call Salmon troute.

Monday 17th.. June 1805.

a cloudy morning. Some men employed taking the canoes
up the little River about 1 ¾ miles. 6 men employed makeing
Small low waggons to hall the canoes and baggage by the
carrying place above the falls. Capt. Clark and five men went
to Survey & measure the distance up to the head of the falls,
to where we can take water again, & to look out a road for us
to go up with the waggons &c. 2 hunters out to git Elk
Skins to put our Iron boat together above the falls, as we leave
our largest craft here. the timber is verry Scarse above the
falls. verry high plains the buffalow pleanty. in the evening
we got the canoes up the Small River to the falls of it
which is about 4 feet perpenticular. we had Some difficulty
in gitting them up the rapids to day, as well as a dangerous
job. one canoe turned upside down in a bad rapid, & was
near drowning the 2 men which was in hir. Several others
filled with water but we haled them up Safe to the place convenient
at the falls to take them up the bank. we caried them
out on a livel & turned them up on edge to dry.

Tuesday 18th.. June 1805.

a fine pleasant day. in the morning all hands halled out
the White perogue, in a thicked of bushes below the bank &
covered hir with bushes &c. & Secured hir Safe. 3 men Sent

out a Short distance to a knob to dig a carsh or hole to deposite
Some of our baggage in, for we mean to leave all we can
Spare at this place. Some men at Sorting & repacking the
Indian Goods &c. about 12 oC. the 2 hunters came in had
killed 10 Deer but no Elk. in the evening we Saw Some
buffalow on the opposite Side of the River. Some of the
hunters went over and killed 2 of them. the low waggons
finished which are all made of wood, & of an ordinarry quality
though they may answer the purpose. the wind high from
the West.

Wednesday 19th.. 1805.

a clear cool morning. Several men Sent for the meat across
the River which was killed last night. the wind verry high
from the West. our Intrepters wife Some better. three men
Sent over the River to go up to the head of the falls to a river
which falls in on that Stard. Side, Called medicine River, to
hunt in order to prepare Elk Skins for the Iron boat. we
prepare to move the goods & baggage &c. Saw large gangs
of buffalow on the Side hills on the opposite Shore. the
wind continues high all day. we are now 2580 odd miles
from the mouth of Missourie.

Thursday 20th.. June 1805.

Some cloudy & cold. the wind continues high from the
west. three or 4 men went across the River to hunt &c. we
lay at Camp at the commencement of the carrying place, to
wait the arival of Capt. Clark & party. a light Squall of rain
about noon. in the afternoon Some of the hunters came in
had killed 11 buffalow the most of them verry fat. all hands
turned out after the meat, but could not fetch more than half
of what was fat. 3 men Stayed all night to butcher the remainder
of the buffalow, which lay dead. Saw large gangs
come about close to the men which was dressing the meat &c.
a little rain. in the evening Capt. Clark & party returned.
they informed us that they traversed the River going up &
measured the falls & river found the first to be about 30 feet
the highest or middle 87 feet the upper one a 45 feet all of
which is perpinticular. a continued rapids between each other.

they found it to be 17 miles to the head to where we can take
water again. two men was attacted by a verry large White
bear one of them A Willard near being caught. Capt. Clark
went & relieved them & 3 men with him. but night comming
on & the bushes thick it being on an Island they did not kill
it. they Saw 1 or 2 other white bear. they Saw also innumerable
gangs of buffalow & killed 8 of those animels, & one
beaver. they Saved as much of the buffalow meat as possable.
1 mile above the fall of 47 feet 8 Inches is the largest fountain
or Spring, as they think is the largest in america known. this
water boils up from under the rocks near the river & falls
immediately into the river 8 feet & keeps its coulour for ½
a mile which is clear & of a blueish cast. they inform us that
their is many Shoots or little falls between the high ones. the
large catteract or falls is a large mist quite across the fall, for
a long distance from them. Capt. Clark Saw rattle Snakes but
Saw verry little timber. they turned back this morning in
order to look out the best & Smoothest portage possable to
take the canoes & baggage &c. up to the medicine River.
they informed us that the Country above the falls & up the
meddicine River is level with low banks & Smoth water. they
Saw a chain of mountains to the west, Some of which particular
those to N. W. & S. W. are covered with Snow, &
appear to be verry high. Capt. Clark lost a part of his notes
which could not be found, as the wind blew high & took them
off. they did not look out & marke the road for the baggage
&c much more than half way down to Camp it being too late
to go round the deep gulleys &c. Capt. Clark Saw gangs of
buffalow attempt to Swim the river abv. the falls. Some went
over.

Chapter IX

PORTAGING AROUND THE GREAT FALLS

IX. June 21–July 14, 1805

June 21st.. Friday 1805.

A FINE morning the wind from the S. W. off the Mountains
& hard. Capt. Lewis with the men except a fiew
take a part of the baggage &c. & a canoe up the Hill
better than a mile in advance. Several men employed in
Shave[in]g & graining Skins Elk hides for the Iron boat as
it is called. the meat was brought in & the men returned
which Stayed out to dress the buffalow last night. they killed
2 or 3 deer and a buffalow calf & a Small Elk. we Saw
innumerable numbers & gangs of buffalow & calfs on the high
plains on Stard. Side of the Missourie.

Saturday 22nd.. June 1805.

a fair pleasant morning. the wind as usal. the party all
raised up eairly. Capt. Lewis and Clark with all the party
except 3 Set out with a waggon & baggage to take the canoe
& loading which was halled on the hill yesterday up to the
upper end of the portage, where we Shall form a Camp. Capt.
Lewis & 3 or 4 men carried all their baggage in order to Stay
up their, in order to git the Iron boat in readiness &c. the
buffalow around the lower Camp verry thick Some gangs
Swam the River Capt. Clarks Servant york killed one which
was verry fat. Capt. Clark informed us that he Saw 40 or 50
Swimming the River abv. the falls and Some went down over
them which he could not See them rise any more. a nomber
got to Shore half drowned. in this way great numbers of
those animels are lost and accounts for So many as we Saw
lying on the Shores below the falls ever Since we came from

the Mandans & Grossvauntares but a vast deal pleantier near
them. the country in general is verry high. no timber back
from the river and but verry little on the river, but bluffs &
high Clifts the most of the Shores. we are a little South of
the Mandans, but have had no verry hot weather as yet.

Sunday 23rd.. June 1805.

the wind has Shifted to the East. Cloudy. a light Sprinkling
of rain. in the afternoon one of the hunters came in from
the Medicine River & informed us that one man G. Shannon
left them the first day he left this place, & took with him a
Small kittle & Some parched meal which was for the hunters,
and that the other 2 had killed 16 buffalow and a fiew Deer
but Saw no Elk. had dryed considerable of fat buffalow meat
at their Camp on the Medicine River. in the evening Capt.
Clark and party came in from the upper Camp & I with them
& informed us that they had Some difficulty with their truck
waggons as they broke Sundry times. Capt. Clark Surveyed
& measured the remainder of the portage, and looked out the
best way for the truck waggons & baggage to Go, and made
the distance to the upper camp to where we take water again
to be 18 miles a Strait course. they put up mile half mile ¼
mile & a half quarty mile Stakes as well as Several flags as
guides for the portage or carrying place &c. Capt. Lewis &
3 men Stayed at the upper Camp, to prepare the Iron boat
&c. &c.

Monday 24th.. June 1805.

a fair morning. we halled out the last canoe, & turned hir
up to dry. all the party present Set our eairly with a waggon
& baggage &c. for the upper Camp. we had Some difficulty
in gitting the loading up on the high plains to where the
canoes were left last night, though after a little fatigue we got
all the loading which we intended carrying at this load in 2
Canoes & proceeded on to a creek called willow creek 7 miles
from the lower Camp & halted to refresh ourselves. made a
tongue to one of the truck waggons, & proceeded on. the
wind blew Steady from the S. East. we hoisted a Sail in the

largest canoe which helped us much as 4 men halling at
the chord with a harness. passed through high Smoth delightful
plains. Saw a nomber of antelopes & buffalow. towards
evening when we were within about 3 miles of the upper
Camp, their came up of a Sudden a violent thunder Shower
& rained a mazeing hard, for about 15 or 20 minutes, in which
time the water Stood on the ground over our mockasons.
our water being all gone and all the men thursty drunk harty
out of the puddles. at dusk we arived at the upper camp, and
unloaded found Some of the baggage wet by the raining in
the canoes &c. we found Shannon here. he had been incamped
up the medison River. he had killed 3 buffalow 8
Deer & several antelopes but no Elk.

Tuesday 25th.. June 1805.

a cloudy morning. we Set out with the 2 truck waggons,
and returned back to the lower camp for another load. took
up 2 canoes on the high plains. the day proved pleasant and
warm the party much fatigued halling the truck waggons &
the baggage. Saw large gangs of buffalow and antelopes
to day. the evening clear and pleasant. we got our loads
ready to Start from this for the upper Camp. mended our
mockasons &c. below the falls the plains are inferior in point
of Soil to those below, more Stones on the Sides of the hills,
Grass but a fiew inches high and but a fiew flowers in the
plains. Great quantities of choke cherries, good berrys, red &
yallow berrys & red and purple currents on the Edges of the
water. we catch great quantities of Trout, and a kind of a
mullet flat backs &c. a Soft fish resembling a Shad, and fiew
cat fish &c. Sergt. pryor Sick. the party all of us amused
ourselves with dancing untill 10 oC. all in cheerfulness and
good humor. we all harnised up our back loads of the baggage
to make an eairly Steart in the morning.

June 26th.. Wednesday 1805.

Some rain last night. this morning verry cloudy. the
part Set out eairly with out loads to the canoes consisting of
pearched meal pork powder lead axes tools Bisquit and portable
Soup &c. we proceeded on with the 2 canoes & Some

baggage. verry hot Sun beat down on us as the day proved
fair. we halted at willow creek and made up a fiew dumplings
& broiled a little fat buffalow meat & we Saw great numbers
of buffalow on the plains in every direction. the plain[s]
appear to be black with them. Some antelope and Deer. the
wolves pleanty. I took sick this evening I expect by drinking
too much water when I was hot. I got bled &c.

June 27th.. Thursday 1805.

a fair warm morning. I feel Some better but not able to go
back to the lower Camp So I remained with Capt. Lewis.
Sergt. Ordway and three men went down by the River to See
the falls and Spring &c about 4 oClock we had a hard
Shower of rain which made the portage so Slipperry we did
not expect they would Start from the lower Camp tomorrow
with a load of baggage as usal.

June 28th.. Friday 1805.

a fair morning the wind from the South. I remained with
Capt. Lewis assisting with the Iron boat &c.

June 29th.. Saturday 1805.

a little rain verry eairly this morning. after clear and
pleasant. in the afternoon their arose a storm of hard wind
and rain and amazeing large hail at our Camp we measured &
weighed Some of them, and Capt. Lewis made a bowl of Ice
punch of one of them they were 7 Inches in Surcumference
and weighed 3 ounc[e]s. as luck would have it we were all
That Stay at this camp Safe in a Shelter but we feel concerned
about the men on the road.

June 30th.. Sunday 1805.

a fair morning. I remained Still at the upper Camp assisting
with the Iron boat Sowing Skins together &c. &c. the
hunters kill Some buffalow and 3 white bear. one verry
large the fore feet of which measured 9 inches across, & the
head t[w]o feet 11 ¼ Inches long and 7 Inches wide a bear
[came] nearly catching Joseph Fields chased him in to the
water bear about the Camp everry night, and Seen on the
Islands in the day time. we look for Capt. Clark & party.

July 1st.. Monday 1805.

pleasant and warm. we continued on with the Iron boat as
usal about 3 oClock Capt. Clark and party arived with the
last canoe and the most of the baggage. the remainder left only
out at the 6 mile Stake. they informed us that the wet
weather was what detained them and that they were out in
the hail Storm but as luck would have it, the hail was not So
big as they were here. Capt. Clark was at the falls at the time
had hunted a Shelter in a deep creek with out water when he
went in but before the Shower was over the creek rose So fast
that he and 3 more who were with him had Scarsely time to
git out before the water was ten feet deep. Capt. Clark lost
the large Compass a fusiee pouch & horn powder & ball, and
Some cloaths &c. the party who were halling Some of them
like to have lost their lives, being nearly naked and the most
of them without any hats on their heads or anything to cover
them and under went as much as any men could and live
through it.

July 2nd.. Tuesday 1805.

Some rain at day light this morning after which a fair morning.
the men who came in yesterday Set out with the truck
waggons to go back to the 6 mile Stake for the Boxes and
kegs which was left yesterday &c. we that Stayed at Camp
Set at gitting timber &c. for the Iron boat. Musquetoes verry
troublesome to day. about 2 oClock the party arived with
the last of the Baggage. they killed 3 buffalow and one
antelope. we put our fire arms in order and about 4 oClock
the 2 Captains and the most of the hunters went over on an
Island to hunt bear they killed one and Saved the Skin and
greece.

July 3rd.. Wednesday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. Sergt. Gass and 2 men Set out to
go down and See the falls & large Spring &c. the men at
[camp] employed puting the leather on the Iron boat &c.
Some burning tar to put on it. we overhalled the Baggage
and found Some mice & killed a large curious rat with hair on

his tail. we fixed Scaffels to keep the Bags &c from the
ground and from the rats. a light Sprinkling of rain in the
afternoon. George Drewyer Capt. Lewis' hunter at the upper
Camp killed 2 large handsom otter and three beaver. in the
evening 2 men went out a Short distance from Camp and
killed a fat buffalow. Some men went for [the] meat. Sergt.
Gass and the man returned from the falls, had killed Six
buffalow and Saved only the brains and tongues. we got the
leather on the Iron boat, and took it apart. 8 Seprt.. Sections
(2 men burning a tar kill)

July 4th.. Thursday 1805.

a clear beautiful morning. the most of the men employed
putting the Sections of the Iron boat together &c. &c. one
of the hunters went on bear Island and killed an Elk and a
beaver. we finished putting the Iron boat together and
turned hir up to dry. towards evening our officers gave the
party the last of the ardent Spirits except a little reserved for
Sickness. we all amused ourselves dancing untill 10 oClock
in the evening, at which time we had a light Shower of rain.
the party all in good Spirits keeping up the 4th.. of July &c as
Independence.

July 5th.. Friday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. 3 men Set out to go down to See
the falls &c. about 9 oClock 12 of the party with Capt. Clark
wen[t] in the plains after a gang of buffalow Seen on a hill
Some distance off. the Situation of the plain where the gang
of buffalow was [was] Such that we could not git near enofe
without being discovered by them. in attempting it Scared
them all off. then a part of the men went after another gang,
the remainder returned to Camp. towards evening the
hunters all came in had killed 3 buffalow 4 miles back in the
plains. brought in Some meat and Skins. the 3 men returned
from the falls. had killed Several buffalow and might
have killed hundreds if they chuse where they were pened in
under high clifts of rocks. they went among them So as
might have reached them with the muzzel of their guns &c.

July 6th.. Saturday 1805.

verry hard Showers of rain and hail through the course of
last night. hard Thunder. at day light a hard Shower of
rain and large hail one of the men gethered a Small kittle
full of the hail which kept the most part of the day. the
morning cloudy. 4 men Set out in 2 canoes in order to go
down to the head of the falls to kill buffalow for Skins to
cover our crafts & meat &c. Some men employed finishing
off the Iron boat others dressing Skins &c. the day proved
clear. light Showers in the afternoon. the hunters did not
return this evening.

July 7th.. Sunday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. one man caught a beaver last
night. 2 hunters Set out across the river this morning to attempt
to kill 1 or 2 Elk for their Skins. we finished off
the Iron boat and put hir up in an open place to dry. the
day warm. I am employed makeing leather cloaths for the
party &c. Some Thunder and a light Shower of rain. about
4 oClock the hunters returned had killed Several buffalow,
one Elk and Several wolves &c. they brought in Some
Skins to cover the crafts with &c. the 2 hunters returned
from across the river had killed 4 Deer and one antelope &c.

July 8th.. Monday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. one man went across the river a
hunting. about 9 oClock A. M. Capt. Clark and all the men
that could be Spared from Camp Set out for to go down to
the falls a hunting. I remained in Camp makeing leather
cloathes &c. the rest of the men at Camp was employed in
makeing coal & tallow and Beese wax mixed and payed over
the leather on the Iron boat &c. in the afternoon the hunters
returned from the falls and plains. had killed Several buffalow,
1 antelope and a yallow fox, also 2 rattle Snakes &c. Capt.
Clark measured the width of the river at the great Spring &
middle falls &c. the hunter returned from over the river and
had killed one buck Deer and a buck antelope or goat kind
&c. Some Thunder and light Sprinkling of rain &c.

July 9th.. Tuesday 1805.

a beautiful morning. the Island near our Camp is covered
with black birds. the musquetoes verry troublesome. we put
the Iron boat in to the water corked Some of the canoes and
git in readiness to depart from this place. in the afternoon
we loaded the 6 canoes but did not load the Iron boat for She
leaked Some. Soon after we got the canoes loaded there came
up a Storm of wind & Thunder. the waves dashed over in
the canoes So that we had to unload again. our officers conclude
that the Iron boat will not answer our purpose as we
cannot git Tar nor pitch to pay the [bottom of] hir over the
hides. the coal Tallow & bease wax would not Stick to the
hides &c. the time being So far Spent they concluded to
burry hir at this place and go about 20 miles up the River and
make 2 canoes which would answer much better. So we Sunk
Sd. Iron boat in the River So that Shee may be taken apart the
better tomorrow. about 10 men got ready to go with Capt.
Clark to make the canoes, about 20 mls.. by water and only about
5 by land from this place.

July 10th.. Wednesday 1805.

a clear morning. we took the Iron boat out of the water,
and loaded 4 canoes one with baggage & tools for the men at
the upper Camp. we Set off eairly with the canoes for the
upper Camp Capt. Clark Set out at the Same time with abt.
10 men to go up by land to make the 2 canoes. we proceeded
on with the 4 canoes about 8 miles and the wind rose So high
that we we[re] obledged to lay by untill toward evening. the
wind then abated and we went on untill dark. then camped
for the night on N. S. within about 3 miles of the upper
Camp. we killed a large rattle Snake. we passed to day 2 or
3 Islands covered with cotton timber and choke cherrys.
abundance of cherry yallow currents and box elder timber
along the Shores. passed a village of bearking Squerrells &
killed one of them on N. S. the musquetoes & nats are
troublesome at our Camp this evening. high banks of Sand
along the N. Shore.

July 11th.. 1805 Thursday.

a clear morning, but high wind which obledged us to lay at
our Camp untill late in the afternoon except the baggage canoe
which went on. 2 of the men went up to the Camp and got
Some meat. towards evening the wind abated a little so that
we went on arived at the upper Camp about Sunset and unloaded.
the hunters had killed 2 fat buffalow and Several
Deer. I walked a Short distance in the plains to day when we
were waiting for the wind to abate, and trod on a verry large
rattle Snake. it bit my leggin on my legg I Shot it. it was
4 feet 2 Inches long, & 5 Inches & a half round. we took
Some fat meat on board and 4 of us Set out with the 8 empty
canoes to return to the lower Camp. we floated apart of the
night got about 8 miles the wind rose so that we halted untill
morning. Capt. Clark had got 2 fine trees cut for 2 canoes and
got them ready to dig out &c. &c.

July 12th.. Friday 1805.

a clear morning. the wind high from the N. W. we proceeded
on down the river. the wind So high that one canoe
filled the other 2 took in water, but with difficulty we got to
the lower Camp about noon. they while we were gone had
killed 2 buffalow. had also put the Irons of the Iron boat in
the ground and Some other articles, also. we Scaffelled up the
buffalow meat to dry &c. Several men had Set out this morning
for the upper Camp the wind continues verry high all
day.

July 13th.. Saturday 1805.

clear and calm. we loaded all the canoes eairly and Set out
with all our baggage for the upper Camp. Capt. Lewis a Sick
french man and the Intrepters wife went across by land. we
proceeded on with the canoes abt. 5 miles verry well then the
wind rose So high that obledged us to lay too untill towards
evening, when the wind abated and we went on about 7 mls..
further and Camped. the Musquitoes verry troublesome untill
9 oClock at night.

July 14th.. Sunday 1805.

we Set out eairly and proceeded on. the morning clear and
calm. passed Several Islands &c. and arived at the upper
Camp about noon. Capt. Clark & men had got the 2 canoes
ready to put in the water. we unloaded the canoes put one of
the niew canoes in the River about 4 oClock P. M. we had
a Small Shower of rain. verry warm the musquetoes troublesome.
we put the other niew canoe in the river, and make
ready to leave this place. we have considerable of fat buffalow
meat dryed. the weeds and grass in this bottom is as high as
a mans knees but the grass on the high land is not more than
3 Inches high.

Chapter X

FROM THE GREAT FALLS TO THE THREE FORKS

X. July 15–27, 1805

July 15th.. Monday 1805.

rAINED the greater part of last night. a clear morning,
wind high from the N. W. we loaded the 8 canoes.
had Some difficulty to git all the baggage on board.
about 10 oClock A. M. we Set out and proceeded on verry
well. passed a large Creek or Small River on S. S. passed
Several Islands covered with cotton timber willow & Grass
fine bottoms on each Side. beaver pleanty. the current verry
gentle Since we came above the falls, can Scarsely desern it
move as yet. we or Capt. Lewis & Clark & a hunter who
walked on Shore to day killed 2 Elk and 2 Deer & one otter.
we came about 26 miles by water to day, and Camped on the
N. Side.

July 16th.. Tuesday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. Sergt. Ordway went about 4 miles
back for an axe which [he] forgot last evening. we proceeded
on verry well the current begin to git Swifter. we passed a
high round hill a Short distance from the river which at a
distance look like a large fortifycation So we named it Fort
Mountain, lying on N. S. of the river. we passed a large
creek on S. Side 100 yds.. wide. passed Several Isld.. covered
with Timber also bottoms on each Side covered with cotton
Timber, &c. Saw fresh Indian Sign. large Camps back of
Several bottoms. the hunters killed 2 buffalow. we Saw verry
large gangs in the plains under the rockey mountan which we
are now approaching. we Came 20 Miles and Camped at the
Entrence of the rockey mountains.

July 17th.. Wednesday 1805.

Capt. Lewis & 2 men Stayed out all night who went up the
river yesty. a clear morning. we Set out at Sunrise and proceeded
on. about 4 miles came to a hard rapid, ½ a mile
where the mountains make close to the river on each Side.
Capt. Lewis joined us. by the assistance of the towing line and
double manning the canoes we took them all up Safe. passed
a large Spring which run from under the Mountain on S. S.
proceeded on passed verry high Steep rocks & pricipices. these
rocky Mountains are broken & verry uneven & appear to be
nearly a Solid rock. Some parts of them thinly covered with
P.[itch] pine and balsom fer timber &c. Some of these knobs
we allow to be 700 feet high and a Solid rock. Mountain Sheep
on the top of them though they are allmost perpenticular. fine
Springs in these mountains, but a desert part of the Country.
narrow bottoms on the points. Some willow and high grass
with a wide leaf. the current verry rapid, and river crooked,
and only about 100 yards wide. we Came 11 miles this day
and Camped on the N. Side in a bottom a little cotton timber
on it. the musquetoes troublesome. we got pleanty of yallow
currents this day.

July 18th.. Thursday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Saw Some Mountain Sheep
on a verry high precipice which is nearly Steep from the river
up 2 or 3 100 feet. we Set out about Sun rise and proceded
on about 3 miles passed the mouth of a River about 100 yds..
wide at the mouth it came in on the N. Side and run Strong.
one mile further up Capt. Clark killed an Elk Saw a nomber
more. we Saw a flock of Mountain Rams on the Side of the
Mountain on S. Side with verry large horns. Capt. Clark killd.
one. we went near them before they run from us. the mountains
appear not So high ahead, but another range seen a long
distance above which appear much higher than any we See in
this range and Some we allow to be 700 feet high the pitch
& yallow pine continues Scatering along these mountains &c.
Capt. Clark & his Servant york & 2 other men Set out to go
up one or two days travel by land. we proceded on with the

canoes verry well. towards evening we passed a Small River
on N. S. about 60 yds.. wide named [blank space in MS.] River.
the mountains continue but not So high as yesterday. we
came 19 ½ miles and Camped in a narrow bottom on the S.
Side. considerable of flax in this bottom half seded. we took
on board Some deer meat & a Skin which Capt. Clark killed.

July 19th.. Friday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal, and proceeded
on. Capt. Lewis and one hunter walked on Shore
Shortly killed a large goat or antelope. we took on board
the Skin and Some of the meat. the current verry Swift. the
mountains verry high & covered with pine & bolsom fir trees
many places verry thick. we went on untill about 11 oClock
without breakfast expecting to overtake Capt. Lewis as usal.
the cause we know knot with [out] Some thing has happened.
one of the men killed an otter with his hooked pole. they are
verry pleanty. some beaver also in these narrow bottoms.
proceeded on. Shortly found Capt. Lewis. passed the mouth
of a Small river on the S. Side. in the afternoon we passed a
verry high part of the mountain & Steep up from the River on
each Side about 600 feet from the Surface of the water, which we
name the gates of the rockey mountains. Several fine Springs
come out under these clifs of light couloured rocks. about one
oClock their came Such a Thunder Shower which lasted 1
hour. Saw pine Spruce & ceeder bolsom fer also on the top
& vallies of Sd. Mountains. the bottoms on the points verry
narrow along the Shores. we Came 19 miles this day through
verry rapid water and Camped on the South Side. a light
Sprinkling of rain this evening.

Saturday 20th.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on. at
8 oClock we came to a lower part of the mountains. we found
along the Shores a great quantity of currents of all kinds yallow
red & black they are now ripe, and we eat pleanty of them
the black kind are the most pallatiable. one of the men killed

one Elk, and found the Skin of another which Capt. Clark had
killed and left a note letting us know that he would only go
over the range of these mountains and wait our arival. the
current verry rapid. passed a Small creek on the South Side.
about 2 oClock P. M. we got through this range of mountains.
Saw an other range a head. Saw a smoak in the valley between
Some level plains in the valley. Some timber Scatering along
the River. proceeded on Saw a great nomber of otter along
the Shores. passed a plain on the N. S. in the valley between
2 mountains. this valley is uneaven & hilley. we Came 15
miles to day and Camped at a Spring on the South Side of the
River. the prickley pears verry thick &c.

Sunday 21st.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on. Saw
a nomber of large Swans on the River. Some of the hunters
killed 2 of them. considerable of pine Spruce and bollsom fer
trees along the Shore. we passed a Small Creek on the S. S.
and one on the N. S. the grass in the valley & on the hills
look dry & pearchd. up. the wind high from the N. W. in
the afternoon we passed through a hill & clifts of rocks on
each Side. the River divides in different channels & Spreads
about a mile wide. the Islands verry pleanty. Saw beaver
Sign on them. this valley is Smoth in places. Some timber
along the Shores our hunters on Shore killed a deer. we
Came 15 ½ miles through verry rapid water. the men [of the]
party much fatigued. Camped on a Smooth plain on the
South Side.

Monday 22nd.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. We Set out as usal and proceeded
on passed verry large Islands covered with grass [and] a fiew
trees. a great many currents. we took a narrow channel
behind an Isd. which was about 5 miles through. we began to
think that we had taken an other River, but proved to the
contrary. Some ceeder on Some of these Islands. passd. 2
large Islds.. which [are] level and all prarie or plain. one of the
men killed a Deer in a plain on N.S. about 2 oClock we

halted to dine on the N. S. then went on Capt. Lewis forgot
his Thurmometer which he had hung in a Shade. it Stood to
day at 80 degrees above 0. I went back and got it then went
on after the party. passed Several Islands covered with cotton
& ceeder timber. the River divides in many Channels. I took
a near cut and at night came out ahead of the party, and went
down to the Camp. Capt. Clark had joined them & his party.
they were all well and had Seen a great deal of Indian Sign
along the River and a fire which was burning. we expect the
Snake Indians or a party of them are near this. perhaps they
are alarmed at our firing at the game &c. we Came 17 ½ miles
this day thro a verry rapid current and a pleasant country.
a pleanty of ripe currents &c. along the Shores. our Intrepters
wife knows the country along the River up to hir nation
at the 3 forks. we are now 166 miles from the falls of the
Missourie.

Tuesday 23rd.. July 1805.

Capt. Clark and 3 men Set out in order to go on to the 3
forks, expecting to find the Snake nation, near that place.
Some cloudy. the Musquetoes verry troublesome. I cannot
keep them out of my face at this time. the current verry
rapid. we proceeded on. the river Spreads wide, and full of
Islands. we passed the mouth of a Small River which came in
behind an Island on the South Side. passed livel Smoth large
plains, on each Side. high grass in places & fine Short grass
in general. considerable of good flax now going to Seed. the
thissels also pleanty & high now in blossom. the timber continues
on the Island[s] and along the Shores. the beaver
pleanty. the pine timber continues on the Sides of the hills at
Some distance from the River. our hunter who Stayed out last
night came to us at noon where we delayed to dry the articles
wh[ich] is wet in the canoes. he had killed Several Deer, and
Saved the most of the meat. we hoisted up our flags and proceeded
on the current verry rapid. Came 24 miles this day
and Camped on the South Side. the party in general much
fatigued. we find pleanty of wild Inions or garlick, in these
bottoms & Islands &c. &c.

Wednesday 24th.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded
on. the current verry rapid. we found a goat Skin which
Capt. Clarks party had killed and left on Shore. passed a yallow
or redish clift of rocks on N. S. Saw considerable of
ceeder on the Islands and along the Shores. in the afternoon
we passed a large plain on the N. S. the prickley pear abound
on it. Saw otter and beaver in great abundence. the willow
verry thick on the Islands and along the Shores. the Currents
still abound also the Rabit berrys, which the french call graze
the buff [graisse de bœuf]. the rapid water continues all day.
Some bad rapids which it was with difficulty we passed over
them. Came 19 ½ mls. this day and Camped on the large
plain N.S. one deer killed this day. a white bear Seen.
pleanty of Elk sign. we Saw a great many different kinds of
Snakes along the R[iver].

Thursday 25th.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded
on. Saw a large white bear on an Island. Saw a nomber of
otter. Saw a flock of goats or antelopes one of the hunters
killed one of them. we Saw a Camp where Capt. Clark had
Stayed one night. discovered mountains a head which appear
to have Snow on them, if not Snow it must be verry white Clay
or rocks. we eat abundance of red & yallow currents. the
timber and Island [s] not So pleanty as yesterday. large plains
on each Side of the River & looks pleasant and extensive. in
the afternoon we entered in to Some rough rockey hills which
we expect from the Indian account is the commencement of the
Second chain of the rockey mountains, but they do not appear
So high as the first nor So Solid a rock. at the entrence we
found Several bad rockey rapids which we had to pass through
and So Shallow the rocks Show themselves across the River
and appear Shallow all the way across. we double manned
and got up Safe. I cut my foot with the Stone a towing along
the Shore. Saw excelent Springs which ran from under the clifts.
we came 16 miles this day and Camped on the N. S. our hunter
killed one goose, which was all that was killed this day.

Friday 26th.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal, and proceeded on the
current rapid. Saw Several Springs along the Shores. one of
the men killed a beaver. the pine and ceeder timber pleanty
along the Shores. passed clifts of rocks on each Side but
the hills make off lower. we find that we have not entered the
2nd.. chain of Mountains but can discover verry high white toped
mountains Some distance up the River. the River verry wide
and full of Islands. the current verry rapid in general. passed
over Several verry bad rapids which was difficult to pass. our
hunter on Shore killed 4 Deer. the wind blew hard at 2 oClock
& a light Sprinkling of rain. we found an Indian bow. took
on board a Deer Skin which Capt. Clark had left with a note,
that they had Seen no Indians, but had Seen fresh horse tracks.
considerable of cotton & ceeder timber on the Islands &c.
Came 19 miles this day, and Camped on the South Side of
the River. found Servis berrys &c.

Saturday 27th.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set off at Sun rise and proceeded on.
the current as rapid as yesterday. passed clifts of rocks where
was villages of little birds under the Shelving rocks &c. the
hills not So high as below. the currents of different kinds
abound along the Shores. about 9 oClock we Came or arived
at the 3 forks of the Missourie which is in a valley in open
view of the high Mountains which has white Spots on it which
has the appearence of Snow. Saw large flocks of mountain
Sheep or Ibex, and goats or antelopes. the plain on N. Side
of the forks has lately been burned over by the natives. we
went on passed the South fork, and west fork. went a Short
distance up the North fork and Camped on the point which is
a Smoth plain. a large Camp of Indians has been encamped
here Sometime ago. our Intrepters wife was taken prisoner
at this place 3 or 4 years ago by the Gross vauntous Indians.
their came up Showers of rain which lasted untill evening.
Capt. Clark & men returned & Joined us. had found no Indians,
but had Seen fresh Sign of horses. Saw one elegant
horse in the plains which appeared wild. they had been about

40 miles up the middle or west fork then Struck across the
plains to the North fork, and was near the mountains, and informs
us that their is considerable of Snow on them. our hunters
killed in these bottoms in the forks of the Rivers, 6 Deer 3
otter & a musk rat. Capt. Clark & party had killed Several
Deer goats or antelopes and a young bear. this is a verry
pleasant handsome place, fine bottoms of timber &c. we expected
to have found the Snake nation of Indians about this
place, but as they are gone we expect they are gone over the
mountains to the River called the Columbian River, to fish
&c. but perhaps we may find Some this Side of the mountains
yet. we Came only 7 miles to day. at this Camp we
unloaded all the canoes & conclude to rest & refresh ourselves
a day or too &c. Capt. Clark taken Sick.

Chapter XI

FROM THE THREE FORKS OF THE MISSOURI
TO THE BEAVER'S HEAD

XI. July 28–August 10, 1805

Sunday 28th.. July 1805.

a FOGGY morning but clear. Several men went out
eairly a hunting. we put out all the baggage to air.
Capt. Clark verry unwell. we built a bowrey for his
comfort. the party in general much fatigued. Several lame,
with Sore feet &c. towards evening the hunters all returned.
had killed 7 or 8 Deer Some of them fat bucks. one of them
who had been a Short distance up the South fork & found it
not as large as the middle or west & North forks, which are
near of a Size. in the evening we had a fine Shower of rain.
Some Thunder attended it, which cooled the air much. the
men at Camp has employed themselves this day in dressing
Skins, to make cloathing for themselves. I am employed
makeing the chief part of the cloathing for the party. two
Elk killed to day also.

Monday 29th.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. Several hunters went out eairly
to hunt. we conclude to lay at this Camp to day. Capt. Clark
Some better. the day verry warm the wind from the east.
the Latitude of this place is 45°, 22m, 34s. 5/10 North. the
width of the Rivers at the forks we alow the North fork to
[be] about 60 yards wide, the west fork about the Same, the
South fork about 40 yards wide. towards evening the hunters
came in had killed 2 fat buck deer, and brought in a curious
long leged redish couloured crain.

Tuesday 30th.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we loaded the canoes eairly and
Set out about 9 oClock and proceeded on. Capt. Lewis and
Several men walked on Shore. we passed large bottoms of
cotton timber. the River crooked rapid and full of Islands.
the underbushes thick. the currents abound. the beaver
pleanty. a nomber of beaver dams behind the Islands &c.
we dined at the upper end of the bottoms close by a clear open
prarie or plain. at this place our Intrepters wife was taken
prisoner 4 years ago by a war party of the grossvauntous.
they took hir as She was attempting to make hir ascape by
crossing a Shole place on the River, but was taken in the
middle of it. 2 or 3 Indians killed at the Same time on Shore.
the rest of the Snakes made their ascape. the day warm, and
verry pleasant. one of the hunters killed a deer. we proceeded
on. the current verry Swift & rapids common. passed
beautiful large plains on L. S. and high land on the S. Side.
we came 13 ½ miles this day and Camped on the Stard. Side.
Capt. Lewis did not join us this evening. these bottoms are
low & many beaver dams which causes pond[s] &c.

Wednesday 31st.. July 1805.

Capt. Lewis layed out alone all last night. a fine morning.
we Set off at Sun rise and proceeded on as usal. the current
rapid. passed the Mouth of a Creek on the Lard. Side, which
was damed up by the beaver in Sundry places. the bottoms
low on each Side and covered with Small cotton timber &
young willow &c. about 8 oClock A. M. we came to Capt.
Lewis where he Camped last night. we took breakfast and proceeded
on passed a plain on the L. S. the hills begin to make
near the River on each Side. passed a verry large Island
which is Smo[o]th bottom prarie & but a little timber on it
large open plain on L. Side on which grows abundance of flax
wild Tanzey thissels &c. the above mentioned handsome
Creek runs through this prarie on Smoth bottom without timber.
only a little cotton timber on the River we dined about
1 oC. under a delightful Grove of cotton timber on L. Side

under the mountain which has large heaps of Snow on it. we
now enter the hills on each Side and keeps along under the
mountains. Capt. Clark Saw a mountain Sheep with the Spy
glass on a round hill towards the mountain. the Game is now
gitting Scarser. we are now without fresh meat which is verry
uncommon to us. the day verry warm. we proceeded on
passed clifts of rocks and high wales along the Shores. Some
pine Scatering along the hills. we Came 17 ¾ miles this day
and Camped on a Small Island on the Lard. Side. our hunter
on Shore wounded a white bear.

Thursday 1st.. day of August 1805

a clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on.
Some of the men killed a goose & a beaver. about 8 oClock
A. M. we took breakfast under Some handsome ceeder trees on
S. Side. Capt. Lewis Sergt. Gass Sharbonoe & Drewyer Set out
by land to go on up the River to make discoverys &c expecting
to find Indians &c. we proceeded on. find currents as usal
and choak cherrys along the River. the current Swift the
hills higher and more pine and ceeder timber on them. we
passed high clifts about 500 feet high in many places. considerable
of pine on the Sides of the hills all the hills rough and
uneven. at noon Capt. Clark killed a mountain Sheep, on the
Side of a Steep redish hills or clifts the remainder of the
flock ran up the Steep clifts. the one killed roled down
Some distance So we got it and dined eairnestly on it. it
being Capt. Clarks buthday he ordered Some flour gave out to
the party. we Saw Some timber along the Shores resembling
ceeder which Some call Juniper, which had a delightfull Shade.
I left my Tommahawk on the Small Island where we lay last
night which makes me verry Sorry that I forgot it as I had used
it common to Smoak in.[1] proceeded on passed verry high
ragid clifts, and a bad rapid at the upper end of a Small Island
the toe rope broke of the Capts.. perogue, and it was in danger
of upsetting. passed a Spring run or creek on L. Side. came
in to a valley. passed bottoms of timber and the mouth of a

large creek on S. Side, and a Spring also. we came 13½ miles
and Ca[m]ped in a fine bottom covered with cotton timber
and thick bushes &c. Saw a white bear. the hunters
killed 5 deer we took on board 2 Elk which Capt. Lewis had
killed and left on Shore for us. Saw Snow on the Mountains
a Short distance to the South of us.

Friday 2nd.. August 1805.

a fine pleasant morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded
on the River is now Small crooked Shallow and rapid.
passed bottoms of cotton timber &c. Saw abundance of beaver
Sign, trees a foot over which had newly been cut down. Saw
a pond which was made by the beaver damming up the water
as in ma[n]y places. passed a high bank in which was a village
of what is called bank Swallows. high hills a little back
from the River on each Side of the River. considerable of
pine on them, & covered with Short grass. I have a pain in
my Shoulder. we proceeded on passed large beautiful bottom
prarie on each Side, & bottoms of timber. Saw a nomber of
old Indian Camps. the beaver houses are verry pleanty &
ponds where they resort. the day warm. we proceeded on
passed a nomber of Islands and bottoms. the River Shallow
and rapid. passed Smoth praries &c. Saw 2 grey Eagles
which had nests on the top of dry trees. Came 14 ¾ miles
this day & Camped on a Smoth plain on L. Side. Saw a gang
of Elk back under the hills. the country back from the River
is broken & Mountainous.

Saturday 3rd.. August 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on.
Capt. Clark walked on Shore a Short time and killed a Deer.
the River verry crooked and filled with Islands. proceeded on.
Saw 2 deer little ahead, one of the hunters went after them and
killed a panther on an Island. it differs Some from those in
the States it was 7 ½ feet long, & of a redish coulour the turshes
[tusks] long the tallants [talons] large but not verry long.
passed verry rapid water So that we had to double man the
canoes and drag them over the Sholes & rapids. passed a large

prarie on S. Side. high grass & bushes along the River. the
bottoms has been burned over by the natives I expect last fall.
passed a verry large Spring on L. S. which makes from under
the mountains. the beaver has damed up the mouth & built
lodges all through the pond it forms. it falls over the beaver
dam in to the River verry Steep, about 4 feet. passed over a
bad rapid and halted about one to dine at a bottom of timber
on the S. Side. the day pleasant & warm. proceeded on
passed Several Springs one large one on L. S. plains and bottoms,
Some of which is covred with cotton & birch timber
the River Still getting more rapid and the rapids longer than
below. Came 11½ miles this day and Camped on L. Side
Cot. wood.

Sunday 4th.. August 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out at Sunrise, a hunter Sent on
a head to kill Some fresh meat for us to eat. proceeded on.
abt 8 oCl. A. M. we Came to Capt. Lewis camp of the 2 ult.
[inst.] he left a note letting us know he left this place yesterday
morning and ment to go on untill this evening, & if they
found no fresh Sign of Indian, they would return back a fiew
miles & hunt untill we came up. we Saw Several Elk in a
plain on L. Side. proceeded on our hunters killed 2 deer.
the rapids bad as usal. we are obledged to use the towing lines
where ever the Shore will admit. Some of the Mountains
near the River on L. S. has been burned by the natives Some
time ago. The timber killed. not So much timber on the
River as below. proceeded on killed a goose and a duck.
they are pleanty on the River. we Came 15 miles this day
and Camped at a bottoms covered with dry timber and wild
rose bush which is verry thick on S. Side. the beaver ponds
and Sign pleanty &c.

Monday 5th.. August 1805.

a clear cool morning. we Set out at Sunrise 2 hunters
Sent on a head to kill Some meat. one of them joined us
with a deer he had killed before breakfast time. the wind cold
from the South. the Shores and hills rockey, & bottom of
the River covd. with Small Stones. our other hunter joined us

at noon, had killed nothing. the rapids gits worse that ever.
it is with difficulty we git over them, & verry fatigueing. at
1 oC. P. M. clouded up. wind high. proceeded on about
a mile further up came to a fork we took the right hand fork
which was amazeing rapid. Some of the rapids falls 3 or 4
feet or their abouts in the length of our canoes. we passed
through a channel where the water was rapid and ran through
the willows & young cotton wood the beaver had fell[ed]
Some of them across the channel and [as] it [was] crooked it
was with much difficulty we got thro. obledged to forse our
way through the bushes and hall by them. Some places out
in the water could Scarsely keep our feet for the rapidity of
the current. Saw Several beaver dams verry high. night
came on. Camped on S. Side at a low bottom, which has
lately been overflowed. we expect this little Stream is high
from the Snow melting on the mountains. it appears it has
lately been higher, but is now falling a little. was it low their
would not be water enofe in it for us to proceed any further
by water. our hunter killed a deer. Came 8 miles this day.
the party much fatigued and wish to leave the canoes & go
by land.

Tuesday 6th.. August 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal, and proceeded on halling
the canoes up the rapids. the bottoms low and covered
with Small timber. about 8 oClock A. M. we halted for
breakfast at a grove of timber. Saw an Indian trale or path.
G. Drewyer Came to us and informed us that we had got the
wrong fork & that their was 3 forks & Capt. Lewis allowed
that the middle fork would be the right course & the best fork
for us to go up. Capt. Lewis gone down to the forks. we
turned about and went down to the forks with the crafts. in
going through a difficult place which we went up thro last
evening, one canoe got up Set and everry perticle of the loading
got wet. one of the men who was in the bow lost his
knapsack and the most of his cloaths &c. I was in the Stern
when She Swang & jumped out to prevent hir from turning
over but the current took hir round So rapid that caught my

leg under hir and lamed me & was near breaking my leg.
lost my Shot pouch powder horn full of powder a bunch of
thred and Some mockisons &c. the remainder of the loading
Saved. we found it difficult to go down over the Sholes.
Several canoes ran fast &c. one of the large canoés took in
water & was near filling. we got down to the forks found
Capt. Lewis & party their. they informed us that they had
been about 30 miles up & their was 3 forks and the middle
fork was the best for us, to go. we halted here at the forks
on L. S. and put out all the articles which got wet to dry.
one of the men who went out to hunt this morning has not
returned. Several men went out from this place to hunt.
we had a Small Shower of rain. the hunters all returned in
the evening had killed 3 Deer and one faun Elk. we blew
the horn & fired Several guns, expecting the man who went
out this morning George Shannon was lost. the Indian goods
&c. did not all git dry this evening &c.

Wednesday 7th.. August 1805.

a clear cool morning. one man out to hunt. we unloaded
one of the Small canoes and halled it out in a grove of cotton
trees and leave hir here. we put [out] the Indian goods &c.
to git throully dry. Capt. Lewis took an observation & Shot
the air gun. the lost man not returned. the day warm, the
large horse flyes troublesome &c. about one oClock we
packed up all the baggage and Set off & proceeded on up the
middle fork. we find the current not So rapid as the right
fork. the rapids not so bad. we had Thunder Showers &
high wind this afternoon. passed Smooth plains on each Side
&c. Camped after coming 7 miles on a bottom of wood &
bushes L. Side. our hunter G. Drewyer joined us had killed
a deer.

Thursday 8h.. August 1805.

a clear cold morning. 4 hunters Sent out eairly to hunt.
we Set out at Sunrise, and proceeded on passed beautiful
Smooth prarie on each Side, but little timber only willows and
bushes currents &c. passed the left hand fork which empties
in at 2 places, but is not as large as the middle fork. Saw a

little Snow on the knobs & mountains at a Short distance
back from the [River.] this large & extensive valley which
looks verry pleasant. the Soil of these praries is much better
than below, for a long distance. we proceeded on passed a
fine Spring on L. S. one of the hunters brought us a deer
which he killed. Saw a nomber of geese & ducks on the
River. passed delightful prarie on each Side covred with high
grass thissels Small Sun flowers and a nomber of other kinds
of flowers &c. at noon R. Fields joined us had been hunting
for Shannon but had not found him. he had killed a deer &
a goat &c. one of the other hunters joined us had killed a
deer & a goat also the day warm & pleasant, in this valley,
which is 10 or 12 miles wide & all prarie. proceeded on
halled the canoes over Several Shole places. this little River
which we call Jeffersons River is only about 25 yards wide but
jenerally eight or 10 feet deep, and verry crooked. we passed
upwards of 60 points this day in comming [blank space in
MS.] miles and Camped in a thicket of bushes on the Lard.
Side. one more deer kill[ed].

Friday 9th.. August 1805.

a clear cool morning. Several hunters out on Shore we
Set out as usal and proceeded on the wind high from the
S. E. took on board a goat which one of the hunters had
killed. we halted abt. 8 oC. for breakfast. George Shannon
joined us who had been lost 3 days. he had killed 3 buck
Deer, which was fat. he brought in the Skins & a little meat.
Capt. Lewis G. Drewyer H. Mc. Neal & John Shields Set out
to go on by land a long distance to look out the way for us to
go & expect to find the Snake nation of Indians. we proceeded
on. took on bord a deer which one of the hunters
killed. we Saw no game worth notice except a fiew Deer.
the River and Smooth prarie the Same as yesterday. back
at the forks our Captains named this Stream Jeffersons River,
the N. fork Sensable River, and the South fork[2] not known
yet. So I expect that ought to be called the head of the

Missourie although we are yet on the head branch, which we
expect to See the head of it Soon. Some Thunder. the
Musquetoes troublesome. the beaver pleanty as usal &c.
Saw Snow on the Mountains Some distance a head. proceeded
on passed the old bed of the River where it formerly
ran along the high land at South Side of the prarie Some
cotton trees along it. the prarie low, Some part of which is
soft & boggy which we expect is good turf to burn [if it] was
dug & dryed. Thunder Showers passed round or over.
Came 18 miles and Camped on L. S. near a grove of cotton
trees & willows.

Saturday 10th.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal. Several
hunters out on Shore. we now begin to live on fresh meat &
that poor venson & goat meat at this time. as our fatigues
[are] hard we find that poor meat alone is not Strong diet, but
we are content with what we can git. the high land make near
the River on each Side. passed a high clifts of rocks on S.
Side. proceeded on the valley gits wider and the hills make
further from the River our officers thought proper that the
Missourie Should loose its name at the 2nd.. forks we passed
Some time ago where we expected to have found the Snake
nation of Indians. So they named the North fork Jeffersons
River, the west or middle fork Maddison River, the South fork
Gallitine River, on which is a most beautiful Spring abt. 2 mls..
from its mouth. the Small River that puts in above the forks
to Jeffersons River they call phillosify River. So Jeffersons
River is the one which we Still keep on. the last 3 forks they
call the North fork, Wisdom R. the South Philandrophey and
the west or middle fork Still retains its name Jeffersons River
it is now gitting Small crooked & Shole in places So that we
have to waid and hall the canoes over. about one oClock we
halted to dine. had a hard Thunder Shower of large hail and
rain thin proceeded on the bottom and river as usal. the
hunters killed only one deer this day. Came 13 miles this
day and Camped on the Stard. Side.

Chapter XII

FROM THE BEAVER'S HEAD TO THE GREAT DIVIDE

XII. August 11–16, 1805

Sunday 11th.. August 1805.

a COOL cloudy morning Some rain we Set out after
breakfast and proceeded on 3 men out a hunting.
about 3 miles came to a verry large prarie Island which
is 3000 miles from wood River or the mouth of the Missourie.
So we call it 3000 mile Island. we took up the L. Side of it
& had to hall over Several Shole places. Saw a nomber of
geese & ducks. one of the hunters joined us at noon. had
killed 3 three Deer & 2 otter, Some distance a head. the day
warm. the large flys troublesome. we proceeded on passed
Several Sunken ponds and low bottoms which is Soft and
boggy the beaver has cat many channels to their houses along
the Shores they are verry numerous in this valley. I think
they are more pleanty than ever we Saw them before. towards
evening we Came to a fiew Scattering cotton trees along the
Shore. the valley continues to be 8 or 10 miles wide and all
low Smooth prarie with timber. we See Mountains a head
Some distance which appear high. large Spots of Snow on
them. we Came 14 miles this day and Camped on a wet
bottom on the Stard. Side. the Mosquitoes troublesome, &c.

Monday 12th.. August 1805.

a clear morning 3 hunters out on Shore a hunting. we
proceeded on the current verry rapid. passed low Swampy
bottoms. about 2 oClock P. M. a hard Thunder Shower
arose rained a Short time. we then proceeded on the current
more rapid one of the large canoes was near turning over.
towards evening the hunters all came in had killed 3 deer and

seen Deer & a goat or antelope. Some timber along the
Shore. We came [blank space in MS.] miles and Camped at
a Smooth prarie & grove of timber.

Tuesday 13th.. August 1805.

cloudy. we Set out as usal & proceeded on. Several
hunters out a hunting. passed a handsom Spring run on the
L. Side. the hills make a little nearer the River. the valley
not So wide & a little higher dry and Smooth. Sun flowers &
grass Some places high & other places Short. Some pine
timber back on the high hills. we halted & took breakfast
near a high clift of rocks on L. Side above which the hills
make near the River. proceeded on. the current rapid the
plain continues on L. Side and hills on S. Side. Some Scattering
cotton trees along the River. we have caught a nomber
of Trout in this Stream. in the afternoon we passed fine
Springs & clifts of rocks on S. Side. the current not So rapid
in the afternoon Saw a nomber of large otter along the River.
Saw bald eagels ducks &c. took on board a Deer which the
hunters killed. Came 15 miles this day and Camped on the
Smooth prarie on L. S. Capt. Clark Shot a duck. considerable
of flax in these praries. Some of the men Save Some of
the Seed. 2 hunters did not join us this evening.

Wednesday 14th.. August 1805.

a clear cold morning. we did not Set out untill we took an
eairly breakfast. the 2 hunters Stayed out last night. the
water in the River is clear and Cold we are now drawing near
the Mountains. the upper part of the valley pleasant. passed
a Spring run or creek on S. Side a handsome valley Some distance
up it. Some Small timber on its Shores. about 10
oClock A. M. we came up to the hunters Camp. they had
killed 4 Deer & one antelope. we proceeded on the current
more rapid. obledged to hale the large canoes over Sholes &
rapids. the Shores & banks of the River Stoney. halted to
dine about one oClock at a dry part of the plain & fine groves
of cotten trees &c. proceeded on took on board a deer and a
goat which the hunters had hung on a limb of a tree. the

current continues verry rapid all day. Capt. Clark killed a
buck and one of the men killed a faun Deer. we Came miles[1]
and Camped on the L. Side at the foot of the Mountains, on
the Smooth plain at the upper end of the valley.

Thursday 15th.. August 1805.

a cold clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on
entered the Mountains verry high clifts of rocks near the
River & Steep on each Side. passed Several Springs on L.
Side which run from under the Mountains. passed Several
bad rapids caught a nomber of fine Trout below the rapids.
the bottoms narrow timber Scarse, the River more Shallow
passed clifts of rocks & high rough mountains on each Side.
passed the Mouth of a creek on the Stard. Side, the warter of a
ridish coulour, considerable rapid and deep. abt. 7 paces wide.
2 hunters on a head. we passed where Capt. Lewis had left 3
or 4 Deer Skins the 10 ult. & proceeded on. the River Shallow
were obledged to hale the large canoes the most part of
the time passed Several cree[ks] clifts of rocks Steep up from
the River about 2 or 3 100 feet in many places. Some of the
knobs are covred with grass & a fine Scattering pitch pines on
them. the River crooked & difficult Some places Shole &
Some deep holes in which we caught a nomber of Trout. Capt.
Clark was near being bit by a rattle snake which was between
his legs as he was Standing on Shore a fishing. he killed [it]
& Shot Several others this afternoon. Came [blank space in
MS.] miles and Camped on L. Side at a narrow plain on which
was Some old Indian Camps.

Friday 16th.. August 1805.

a clear but verry cold morning. the Thurmometer Stood
at 47°. the water So cold that we delayed untill after breakfast.
one hunter out on a head. we proceeded on as usal
the current Swift passed a handsom Spring run on L. Side
on which is a fiew cotton trees. Capt. Clark our Intrepter &
wife walked on Shore and found a great nomber of fine berrys

which is called Servis berrys our Ints. wife gethered a pale full
& gave them to the party at noon where we halted at a grove
of cotton trees on L. S. our hunter who went out this morning
killed a verry large buck. two of our hunters Stayed out
last night, and have not returned yet. we name this place Servis
valley, from the abundance of these berrys along under the
hills &c. the 2 hunters joined us here & Informed us that the
River forks in about 5 miles a Strait course by land & they
think we can go no further than the forks with the crafts. 2
hunters Sent on to the forks to kill meat. we proceeded on
over verry Shallow & Swift water passed up a verry bad rockey
rapid where we had to waid up to our middle & hale the canoes
over the rapids. Saw Several fine Springs & a run above the
bad rapid passed high clifts of rocks and high hills on each
Side. found pleanty of currents the water not So bad above
the rapid. Came [blank space in MS.] miles this day and
Camped on a narrow bottom on L. Side. No timber we
could Scarsely find any but Small willow to boil our venison.

Chapter XIII

CROSSING THE GREAT DIVIDE, AND SEARCHING
FOR NAVIGABLE WATERS

XIII. August 17–26, 1805

Saturday 17th.. August 1805.

a CLEAR cold morning, we lay last night with 2
blankets or Robes over us & lay cold. Some frost
this morning. we took an eairly breakfast and Set
out. proceeded on a Short distance. heared a nomber of
Indians a Singing on L. Side. directly their came Several
of the Snake nation. Came to us & told us that Capt. Lewis
& party was at the forks. Capt. Clark our Intrepter & wife
went with the natives rode their horses to the forks. they
kept rideing back & forward to See us comeing up with the
canoes. we were obledged to hale the canoes a great part
of the way untill we got to Capt. Lewises Camp a little below
the forks their was 20 odd of the Snake nation Camped with
Capt. Lewis. they appeared harmeless & friendly. Capt. Lewis
informed us that he had been over the mountain on the head
waters of Columbian River and that this band was Camped on
Sd. waters and Creek or Small River on their way across to this
place a hunting. the first they Saw was one Spy they had
Some distance a head on horse back. Capt. Lewis Swung &
held up a blanket as a token of friendship, but as it hapened
2 of the men were a hunting one on each Side of him, which
frightned him as he Suposed they wished to take [him] prisoner
[he] turned about his horse & rode verry S[p]eedy out
of his road & made no halt untill he got to the band, & told
his people the news. they met 3 Squaws on the Side of the
mountain a digging roots 2 of them ran off, the other being
old Stood hir ground. Capt. Lewis came or went up to hir &
gave hir Some Small presents, and Shewed everry mark of

freiendship. She then called up the other 2 and they piloted
Capt. Lewis & party to the band, which received them with a
great deal of fear at first. app[e]ared frightened until they lay
down their guns and made Some tokens & motions of friendship.
the natives then put their arms around their or our
peoples necks & appeared glad to See them and used them
friendly. they had Some Salmon which they had brought with
them from the main river. it is only about 40 miles over the
mount. to the head waters of the other R. the[y] drank at the
head waters or Spring of the Missourie and went only abt. a
mile and drank out of the head Spring of the Columbian
River which ran west. the natives tell us that their is no
timber large enofe for canoes on the head waters &c. Capt.
Lewis got 20 [o]dd of the band to come over with their
horses, only 3 women with them. we conclude to leave the
canoes at this place and git horses of the natives to take our
baggage over the mountains. So we unloaded the canoes and
formed a Camp on a Smooth prarie on L. Side. the grass
high, but no timber we could git no timber to burn but
small dry willow Sticks about as big as a mans finger &c. a
high hill in the point or between the forks of the River. high
hills around this valley. the hunters killed 3 deer & 2 goats
this day. Capt. Lewis informes us that the game is verry
Scarse on the mountain, & that they were without any thing of
account to eat for 2 or three days, but the natives tell us that
their is pleanty of fish on the columbian River Such as Salmon
&c. our officers told the natives that we wanted to git their
horses to take our baggage over the Mountain & wanted to
buy Some from them also So they Gave them considerable
of marchandize divided it among them all. they consented to
let us have their horses & assist us over the mt. they tell us
that it is only about 8 days travvel a South course to the
Spanish country, but these Indians git but little trade amongst
them &c.

Sunday 18th.. August 1805.

One beaver caught in a trap l[ast] n[ight]. a clear morning.
Capt. Clark and 11 men got in readiness to Set out with the

natives to go over the mountain to the other River to make
canoes &c. Capt. Lewis bought 4 horses of the natives Gave
them, Some he gave a uniform coat a knife & a hankerchief,
others he gave red leggins a knife a hankerf and a fiew arrow
points &c. 2 of the men joined and bought a horse to take
their baggage on & gave only one brich [breech] cloath one
old or poo[r] Shirt & one knife, for a good pack horse. these
Indian are verry poor and vallue a little worth a great deal, as
they never had Scarsely any kind of a kinife or Tommahawk
or any weapons of war or to use. 2 or 3 guns only to be
seen among them which we expect they got from Some other
nation, who traded with the french or Spanish traders. Gave
their horses &c. for them. they are tollarably well dressed with
Skins Such as antelope and Mountain rams Skins &c. they
have a fiew beeds and ear bobs among them. they gave Capt.
Lewis a kind of an ornament which Spread around the
Shoulders it was made of wezels tales & Some other ornemental
afares. they have little things made of mussell shell
which they hang in their ears with their beeds &c. about 10
oClock A. M. Capt. Clark 11 men and all the natives but
4 [–] 2 women & 2 men which Stayed at our Camp, Set out
with their horses & considerable baggage to cross the mountain
and Send back the horses for us to pack over all the baggage,
which we wish to take over. we put out the Indian goods &c
to air & Sort we had Some Showers of rain this afternoon
the one hunter killed one Deer to day.

Monday 19th.. August 1805.

a cold morning. we Set our net across this little Stream in
hopes to catch Some fish. Several traps Set for beaver.
caught no fish in the net. Caught one beaver in a trap. a
white frost this morning a clear pleasant day, all hands
employed in dressing Skins & Sorting the Indian goods &
packing up the baggage. Some at makeing pack Saddles &c.
three men out with a horse to hunt. Some of the men caught
a nomber of fine fish, large Trout black Spots all over them.
the hunters returned in the afternoon had killed 2 Deer.

light Showers of rain. we packed up the most of the baggage
&c. halled the fish net across the river but caught none any
other way but with a hook & line. Capt. Lewis takes observations
here this being the upper fork of Jeffersons River &
the extream navigable part of the Missourie close under the
dividing ridge of the western Country.

Tuesday 20th.. August 1805.

a clear cold morning. a white frost. two men out hunting.
the men at Camp employed dressing Skins &c. the 2
Indians who Stay at Camp behave well their women mend &
make our moccasons. these Indians behave as well and are as
friendly as any Savages we have yet Seen. our hunters returned
had killed nothing. one beaver caught which ran off
with a Steel trap last night. we found [it] 2 miles down the
river. a nomber of fish caught to day. Capt. Lewis looked
out a place down the river a Short distance for a carsh [cache]
or hole to put Some baggage in which we can do without untill
our return.

Wednesday 21st.. August 1805.

a hard white frost the water which Stood in the Small vessells
froze a little. Some deer Skins which was Spread out wet
last night are froze Stiff this morning. the Ink freezes in the
pen at Sunrise. a clear pleasant morning. one hunter out
with a horse a hunting. 4 men Sent to dig a carsh or hole.
at 8 oClock A. M. Some of the party found Ice in Some
Standing water ¼ of an Inch thick. Captain Lewis took observations
at this place and the Latitude produced is 43D, 44M,
19S North. in the evening after dark we carried our baggage
we concluded to carsh to the place of cashing, So as that the
Indians need not discover us, or mistrust that we are going to
berry any thing at this place &c &c.

Thursday 22nd.. August 1805.

a white frost & cold as usal in the morning. our hunter
returned late last night. had killed a faun deer, and informed

us that he fell among a party of Indians which were troublesome
as they took his gun & rode off he rode after them and
got his gun from out of an Indians hand. their was Several
Squaws which had considerable of their kinds of food and
Skins. they went and left it all he took it and brought it
in with him. a clear pleasant morning three men wen[t] to
finish hideing the baggage. the men at Camp employed dressing
their Deer Skins & makeing their mockasons &c. I am
employed makeing up their leather Shirts & overalls. about
11 oClock A. M. one tribe of the Snake nation 50 odd in
nomber arived here on horse back some women & children.
they have now come over the dividing ridge to trade their
horses &c. with us. Capt. Lewis counciled with them made 2
of them chiefs, and told them that we had come to open the
way and try to make peace among the red people, and that
they would be Supplyed with goods and necessaries, if they
would catch beaver and otter and Save their Skins which the
white people were fond of, and would trade with them as Soon
as times would admit &c. Capt. Lewis traded with them &
bought 3 horses & 2 mules or half mules, for a little marchandize
&c. we being out of fresh meat & have but little Salt
meat we joined and made a fish dragg out of willows tyed
bunches of them together and made it long enofe to reach
across the River, and Caught with it 520 different kinds of
fine pan fish. we divided them with the natives. Gave them
a mess of boiled corn which they were fond of. they appear
to be verry kind and friendly. we trade with them for dressed
mountn. rams Skins and otter Skins &c. our Interpeter &
wife came over with them & were all Scarse off for provissions.
killed nothing but one or 2 mountain Sheep & rabits &c. they
all Camp with us and are peacable, do not attempt to Steel
any thing. borrow nothing but what they return. they appear
to live in fear of other nations who are at war with them,
but Capt. Lewis tells them that these other nations promise to
let them alone and if they do not, their Great father will Send
them arms and amunition to defend themselves with, but rather
that they would live in peace &c.

Friday 23rd.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. 2 men Sent out a hunting. Capt.
Lewis Commences trading with the natives for more horses,
but they do not incline to part with any more horses untill
they git over the mountains, but will carry all our baggage
over for us. Several of the natives went out with horses to
hunt. they rode after the Deer & chased Some in site of our
Camp and ran them down So that they killed 4 or 5 of them.
this day, we halled all the canoes out in a Small pond on the
North Side of the River and Sunk them in the water, So as
they may be Safe for us at our return. about 4 oClock P. M.
their came another party of the Snake Indians on horseback,
about 40 in nomber. they appear the Same as the others did.
we expect to Set out tomorrow to cross the mountain 2 hunters
Sent on a head to kill Some meat if possable for us by the
time we come up with them. our hunter returned in the evening
had killed 2 large Deer and three Small Deer and brought
them all to Camp on the horse.

Saturday 24th.. August 1805.

a clear cool morning. we find that the band of the Snake
nation who came here yesterday is going down on the Missourie
after the buffaloe, and offers Some of their horses for
Sale. So we detain this morning in order to purchase Some
of them. we got 3 or 4 more horses and hired 2 and loaded
all our horses which was abt. 12 in nomber then the Squaws
took the remainder of our baggage and we then Set out about
12 oC. on our way to cross the divideing ridge. proceeded
on abt. 3 miles one of the men was taken Sick with the collick,
and detained us So that we came only about 6 miles and
Camped on the creek. one of the hunters came to us had
killed nothing we gave the Indians Some corn, as they had
nothing to eat.

Sunday 25th.. August 1805.

a clear morning a little frost last night. we loaded up our
horses and loaded the Indian horses and proceeded on through
the level plain. our hunters killed 3 Deer, passed a nomber

of fine Springs and Spring runs. Some willow on the creeks
& runs but no timber of any acct. except pitch pine on the hills
& tops of the mountains. our hunters killed another Deer.
we Came about 15 miles this Day and Camped near the creek
or run.

Monday 26th.. August 1805.

a clear morning. we find it verry cold and frosty every
morning. the water froze a little in the Small vessells. we
Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on. the mountains make
along close to the branch on each Side which are partly covd.
with pi[t]ch pine. passed a nomber of fine large Springs and
drank at the head Spring of the Missourie and crossed a high
ridge only one mile and drank at the head Spring of Columbian
River running west. the runs all make the Same course Saw
a high mountain to the S. W. with Some Spots of Snow on
them. Saw Spots of pitch pine and bolsom fer on the Sides of
the Mo. and on the Spring runs, and verry tall. we halted to
dine at a Spring within about 8 miles of the Indians Camp
which is on the Small River. one of our Indian women was
taken Sick a little back of this and halted a fiew minutes on
the road and had hir child and went on without Detaining us.
we then proceeded, on after we dined and gave the Indians who
were with us a little corn. passed over Several hills. when
we came near the natives lodges we fired 2 rounds by the
requ[e]st of the chief then went to their lodges. they had a
large one in the center prepared for us, wher we unloaded and
Camped with them. their is about 30 lodges here consisting
of men women and children, but the nomber of persons would
be difficult to find out. we danced a little this evening. the
natives assembled to see us. they all appeared verry friendly
and peaceable.

Chapter XIV

DOWN THE LOLO TRAIL

XIV. August 27–October 10, 1805

Tuesday 27th.. August 1805.

a BEAUTIFUL pleasant morning. we hoisted our
large flag. Capt. Lewis Gave the head chief a flag also
the 2[nd] chief one they hoisted them on the levil
near their lodges. Capt. Lewis then began to trade with the
natives for horses, after paying off the women who helped us
over the divideing mount. Mr. Sharbono bought one horse for
a red cloak. the natives brought up Several horses for trade.
2 hunters went out this morning to hunt with horses. the
natives caught a nomber of fine Trout which would weigh abt.
8 pound Some call them Salmon Trout. others call them real
Salmon, but they are not So red as the large Salmon. the Indian
women are mostly employed gethering a kind of Small black
Seed not So large as buck wheat, which they dry and pound or
rub between 2 Stone[s] and make a Sort of meal of it they
also dry cherries and Servis berryes & roots &c &c. for food.
they kill but fiew Deer or any wild game except when they go
down on the missourie after the buffalow. the country in
general is barron broken and mountainious. an Indian came
in with a horse load of Deer meat, which our hunters killd. our
hunters all returned towards evening had killed 4 Deer & 8 or
10 fine Salmon which they had killed with a wooden gig.
Capt. Lewis has bought 7 or 8 horses this day for a little of
different kinds of Marchandize &c, but they Seem loth to part
with any more without asking more for them. Some of them
play away whatever they git for their horses, at a game nearly
like playing butten only they keep Singing all the while and
do all by motions. more or less play at this game & loose or

win more or less they care not always appear Still peaceable
and contented, poor as they be. in the evening they had a
war dance. their women Sang with them they danced verry
well, but no So regular as those on the Missourie they tell us
that Some of their horses will dance but I have not Seen them
yet.

Wednesday 28th.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we hoisted the large flag. Several
men went a hunting and Several a fishing with Iron gigs fixed
on poles. about 9 oClock A. M. Capt. Lewis began to trade
for horses again and offered nearly double as much as yesterday.
Some Spots of Snow continues to lay on the mountain
a fiew miles to the South of us. Sergt. Gass joined us about
2 oC. and informed us that Capt. Clark & the rest of the men
were about 12 miles down the River waiting for us, but Capt.
Lewis Sent down for him to come up as we had So many
horses to pack down. Capt. Lewis has bought 5 or 6 more to
day we have now 25 in all. our hunters killed nothing this
day. in the evening 2 Indians arived at this village on horseback
from another band which were Some distance to the South
near the Spanish country. the principal men of the village all
assembled to council with them these Savages all like Salt &
eat it on meat &c.

Thursday 29th.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. about 8 oClock A. M. a nomber
of Indians arived here from the East Side of the Mountain.
they belonged to this nation but had been gone a long time
and one of the warrie[r]s had been Sculped by Some war party
in the plain. a nomber of their relation cryed aloud when they
arived in the village. Capt. Lewis bought 2 more horses.
about 11 oClock A. M. Capt. Clark & party except 2 who
Stayed to take care of the baggage arived here. they informed
us the Mountains are amazeing high and rough So that it is
impossable to follow the River down for the Steep clifts &c.
and the River So rapid and full of rocks that it is impossable
to go down with crafts, and no game of any kind. they killed
nothing but one Deer, while they were gone. they lived

Several days on Servis berrys and cherries &c. they passed a
lodge of Indians in a Small valley in the mountn. gethering
cherries & Servisses. they Started to run but our men having
a guide of their nation with them, he Spoke to them and they
were easy. these Savages had nothing to give our men but
Some of their berries. they got Some Salmon from the natives
who Stayed on the River, but Suffered a great deal with hunger.
the Natives tells us that we cannot find the ocean by
going a west course for Some of them who are old men has
been on that a Season or more to find the ocean but could not
find it, and that their was troublesome tribes of Indians to pass.
that they had no horses but would rob and Steal all they could
and eat them as they had nothing as it were to eat. the country
verry mountaineous and no game. these natives do not
incline to Sell any more horses without guns in return as they
say they must have one or the other for defence, as they could
jump on their horses & ride off and carry their children &c.
we told them they [sc. we] could not Spare any guns if we
Should git no more horses So we put up the goods & make
ready to Set out tomorrow on our way round the or between
the mountains and Strike Columbian River below if possable.
our hunters came in had caught 6 fish and killed one Deer.

Friday 30th.. August 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we got all our horses up and
bought 3 more which makes 30 in all which we now have. we
got our loads ready. the guide which we engaged to go with
us tells us that we could go a road which would be Smooth &
leads to the Southward but we would be 2 days without water
and no game on that road. but he could Show us a hilley
rough roud [rout] over the mountains to the north of the
River which would take us in 15 days to Salt water, or in 10
days to a large fork of the River, where it would be navagable.
So we concluded to go that roud a part of these natives Set
out with their horses to go over on the Missourie after the
buffalow. about one oClock P. M. we got ready and Set out
with all our horses except 2 loaded with baggage. our hunter

killed three Deer this for[e]noon. we proceeded on down this
little River bottom crossed Several Spring runs passed Several
old camps or lodges. Came about 10 miles and Camped on
the bottom near the River.

Saturday 31st.. August 1805.

a fine morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on 2 miles
and passed Several Indian lodges where we bought a nomber
of fine Salmon. the natives have wires [weirs] fixed across the
River in which they catch more or less evverry night. a
Strange Indian came in Site of these lodges who they expected
to be one of the nation called the flat heads. he ran as Soon
as he Saw us Several of these natives followed after him. we
went on a Short distance further crossed the River and halted
for breakfast. one man out a hunting. 2 men Sent to Some
other Indian Camps, with Some articles to buy Some more
Sammon, but they had moved their Camps and we got none.
we then proceeded on over rough hills Some of them high
& Steep, deep Gullies and white earth which had been washed
down by rains &c. went about eight miles and halted to bate
our horses and dine. 4 or five of the natives follow us. Some
pitch pine on the Mountains which make near the River on
each Side. we proceeded on over a Smooth plain about 7
miles and passed along [th]e Side of a mountain near the River,
where the Stone lay one [up]on another and full of holes, So
that it is allmost impossable for horses to pass without breaking
their leggs. we then passed along the end of this mountain.
Come to a large creek which falls in on the East Side.
we followed up this creek or Spring branch. found pleanty of
wild or choke cherries and Servis berrys. one of the hunters
killed a Deer at the edge of the evening. we Came [blank
space in MS.] Miles this day and Camped at the Creek where
we had Several good Indian lodges to Sleep in this night.

Sunday 1st.. September 1805.

a fine morning we Set out as usal and proceeded on over
verry high mountains which was verry bad for our horses to
climb up and down them. passed across Several large creeks

the water of which is verry cold. considerable of pine & cotton
timber on each of those creeks. we find a great pleanty of
Servis berrys which are verry Sweet and good at this time. in
the afternoon we descended a Mountain nearly as Steep as the
roof of a house. went down in to the valley in which runs
through a large Creek. passed by a plain near the Creek a
Short distance. Camped after coming 23 miles this day &
Camped a little before night on account of its raining. Some
of the men giged Several Sammon in the creek. three men
went down to the Mo. of it to purchase Some Sammon from a
camp of Indians who Stay at the mo. of the Creek to fish. they
bought about 25 pound with a fiew Small articles. the hunters
killed a Deer and wounded two bear at dark but could not get
them. the wild or choke cherrys abound in this bottom. we
gethered and boiled Some which eat verry well. a nomber of
Indian lodges along the creek. we had 2 at camp to Sleep in.
Several Small Showers of rain this day & a little Small hail.

Monday 2nd.. Sept. 1805.

a wet cloudy morning. we loaded our horses and Set out
about 7 oClock and proceedd on. the road bad Some places
thick bushes and logs to cross. other places rockey. went
about a N. E. course up the abo. ment. Creek. Crossed Several
large Spring runs. Saw a nomber of large beaver dams, &
ponds the pine and bolsom fer timber verry pleanty and
thick up this Creek Some of the Pine is large enofe for boards
[One line in MS. illegible.]

we proceeded on through a bad thicket of tall Strait pitch
pine bolsom fer & cotton timber we were obledged to cut a
road for the horses to go and some places verry Steep and
rockey. we followed the creek up, crossed a nomber of fine
Spring branches and waided the creek a nomber of times.
the mountains on each Side of the Creek is verry Steep and
high. the bottoms on the Creek narrow and Swampy a nomber
of beaver dams. we Call this place dismal Swamp, and it is
a lonesom rough part of the Country. we were obledged to
climb Several hills with our horses, where it was So Steep and
rockey that Some of the horses which was weak and their feet

Sore they fell back 3 or 4 fell over backwards and roled to
the foot of the hills. we were then obledged to carry the loads
up the hills and then load again. one of the horses gave out
So that his load was left a little before night. we Came 13
miles this day and Camped in a thicket of pine and bolsom
fir timber near the Creek. 2 of the men came up with their
horses and loads after dark. this horrid bad going where we
came up this creek which we Call dismal Swamp was six miles
and we are not out of it yet, but our guide tells us that we will
git on a plain tomorrow. Several fessons [Pheasants] killed
this day, but no other kind of game Seen by our hunters.

Tuesday 3rd.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy. we Set out as usal after the load was brought up
which was left last night. we proceeded on up the branch a
Short distance, then took the mountains and w[ent] up and
down the mountains all day. passed and crossed an a bundance
of fine Springs and Spring runs. Some of the mountains was
So Steep and rockey that Several of the horses fell back among
the rocks and was near killing them. Some places we had to
cut the road through thickets of bolsom fer Some of that
kind of timber in the vallies of these mountains is verry high
about 100 & 60 feet, and verry Strait and handsom. the most
of them are covred with warts full of the bolsom towards
evening we crossed a dividing ridge went some distance on the
top of it which was tollarable good and Smoth going. then
passed down a Steep hill in to the head of a cove and branch
where we Camped after a dissagreeable days march of only 11
miles with much fatigue and hunger as nothing has been killed
this day only 2 or 3 fessents, and have no meat of any kind.
Set in to raining hard at dark So we lay down and Slept, wet
hungry and cold. Saw Snow on the tops of Some of these
mountains this day.

Wednesday 4th.. Sept. 1805.

the morning clear but verry cold our mockersons froze
hard. the mountains covred with Snow. 2 mountain Sheep

Seen by one of the men. we delayed untill about 8 oClock
A. M. then Set out and assended a mountain without any thing
to eat. the Snow lay on the mout. So that it kep on our
mockisons the air verry cold our fingers aked with the cold.
we [de]scended the mountain down a rough rockey way and
along through a large thicket of bolsom fer timber in which
we killed a dozen fessents then descended down in to a large
valley on a branch and halted to dine our hunter killed a
Deer. Saw fresh Indian Sign. we Eat our deer. our Indian
guide and the young Indian who accompanied him Eat the
paunch and all the Small guts of the Deer. we then proceeded
on down the valley towards evening we arived at a large
Encampment of the flat head nation which is a large band of
the nation of about 40 lodges. they have between 4 and 500
well looking horses now feeding in this valley or plain in our
view. they received us as friends and appeared to be glad to
See us. 2 of our men who were a hunting came to their
lodges first the natives Spread a white robe over them and
put their arms around their necks, as a great token of friendship.
then Smoaked with them. when Capt. Lewis and Capt.
Clark ari[ved] they Spread white robes over their Shoulders
and Smoaked with them. our officers told them that they
would Speak with them tomorrow and tell them our business
and where we are going &c. the natives are light Complectioned
decent looking people the most of them well
cloathed with Mo. Sheep and other Skins. they have buffalow
Robes leather lodges to live in, but have no meat at this time.
but gave us abundance of their dryed fruit Such as Servis
berrys cherries different kinds of roots all of which eat verry
well. they tell us that we can go in 6 days to where white
traders come and that they had Seen bearded men who came
[from] a river to the North of us 6 days march but we have
4 mountains to cross before we come on that River. our
hunters killed another Deer this evening. Came [blank space
in MS.] miles to day and pitched our Camp on the plain near
the Creek on the right of the Indians lodges. considerable of
large pitch pine in the valley.

Thursday 5th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear cold morning. the Standing water froze a little last
night. we hoisted our large flag this morning. Several men
went out a hunting. about 10 oClock our officers held a
Council with the flat head nation and told them nearly the
Same as they told other nations, only told them that we wanted
a fiew horses from them, and we would give them Some
marchandize in return. Gave 4 of their principal men meddles
made them chiefs gave each of them a Shirt and a nomber of
other articles also 2 flags &c. then told them that we could
not Stop long with them and that we were ready to purchase
their horses, and that we could not talk with them as much as
we wish, for all that we Say has to go through 6 languages
before it gits to them and it is hard to make them understand
all what we Say. these Savages has the Strangest language of
any we have ever Seen. they appear to us to have an Empeddiment
in their Speech or a brogue or bur on their tongue but
they are the likelyest and honestst Savages we have ever yet
Seen. our officers lay out Some marchandize in different
piles to trade with the natives for horses. our officers bought
twelve horses and gave a Small quantity of marchandize for
each horse. we swapped 7 horses which were lame &c. Gave
Some Small articles to boot. we bought 10 or a Dozen pack
Saddles from the natives. our hunters all came to Camp
towards evening. one of them had killed 2 young Deer and
one brarow.

Friday 6th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear cold morning. we began to pack up our baggage
and look up our horses &c. bought a nomber of lash chords
and other Small articles from the natives at 10 oClock A. M.
the natives all got up their horses and Struck their lodges in
order to move over on the head of the Missourie after the
buffalow. they make a large Show as they are numerous and
have abundance of horses. we take these Savages to be the
Welch Indians if their be any Such from the Language. So
Capt. Lewis took down the names of everry thing in their
Language, in order that it may be found out whether they are

or whether they Sprang or origenated first from the welch or not.
about noon we got ready to Set out. we have now 40 good
pack horses, and three Colts. we loaded the horses Several
men had to take 2 horses &c. 4 hunters were furnished
horses without loads to hunt constant. about 1 oClock P. M.
we Set out. the natives Set out at the Same time to go over
on the Missourie. we proceeded on our journey. crossed a
large creek went over a mountain about 7 miles came down on
the Same creek and Camped nothing to eat but a little
pearched corn. on[e] hunter Stayed out all night. light
Sprinklings of rain through the course of the day.

Saturday 7th.. Sept. 1805.

a cloudy cold morning. we Set out eairly, and proceeded
on down the creek. our hunter came up who Stayed out last
night. had lost his horse. we proceeded on over a plain.
the bottoms narrow and considerable of timber large pine and
cotton along the creek high mountains on the L. Side of the
creek which are covred with pitch pine. Some of the highest
are covred thick with Snow. one of our hunters killed 2 Deer
which revived us. Some of the hunters killed a goose & a
crain Several fessents and a hawk. Several Small Showers of
rain in the course of the day. the valley gitting wider the
creek larger. the plain Smooth and dry. the Soil verry indifferent.
we Came 18 miles this day and Camped on the
bank of the Creek. we passed Several creeks and branches
which run into the main creek this day. one of our hunters
did not join us this evening. a little rain. our course this
day is generally N. west.

Sunday 8th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy and verry chilley and cold. we Set out eairly and
proceeded on down this large creek or Small River. passed
over Smooth dry plains. no timber only along the River,
which is large pitch pine the bottoms wide. we crossed
Several creeks. Saw Snow on the Mountains to our left. high
barron hills to our right. about 11 oClock we halted to dine at

a branch our hunters all joined us. had killed an Elk and a
Deer, Which they brought with them. the wind from N. W.
chilley and cold. the Snow lays thick on the Mot. a little to
our left. we delayed and let our horses feed about 2 hours,
and proceeded on down the valley. had Several Small cold
Showers of rain & a little hail. passed over level Smooth
plains in this valley. the Mountains are rough on each Side
and are covered with pine and the tops of which are covered
with Snow. Some places appear to lay thick. one of our
hunters found & caught 2 horses and a handsom Colt. we
take them along with us though the horses are lame. we
expect that to be the reason that the natives left them in these
bottoms. we travveled 20 odd miles this day and Camped at
the Creek and Smooth bottom where was fine feed for our
horses. our hunters all joined us one of them had killed a
Deer. crossed Several branches in course of the day.

Monday 9th.. Sept. 1805

a cloudy cold morning, wind from the N. W. we Set out
as usal, and proceeded on down the valley. Smooth pleasant
plains, large pitch pine timber along the River. no timber on
the plains but they are covred with grass and wild hysop. the
Soil poor. crossed Several branches on which is pine timber,
also, a little cotton timber &c. the Snow continues on the
Mount. each Side of the valley. about 11 oClock we halted at
a branch to dine one of the hunters had killed three geese
and a wood pecker. Capt. Clark killed 4 fessents or prarie
hens. we find wild or choke cherries along the branches. we
delayed about 2 hours and a half. then proceeded on down
the valley. passed through a large bottom covred with handsom
pitch pine timber, from that a pleasant plain the remainder
of this day. the afternoon pleasant, but the Snow Still continues
on the Mountains as usal. Came about [blank space
in MS.] Miles this day and Camped on a plain near a
creek which runs in to the River about 2 ml. below. our
hunters all but one joined us had killed 3 Deer and Several
ducks this day &c. course N. W. and North all day.

Tuesday 10th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. not So cold as usal. as our road
leads over a mountain to our left, we conclu[de] our Captains
conclude to Stay here this day to take observations, and for
the hunters to kill meat to last us across the mountain and for
our horses to rest &c. Several men and all the best hunters
went out a hunting considerable of cotton timber on this
creek the choke cherries abound on its bottoms. the natives
has lately gethered an amence quantities of them here for food,
as they mooved up. considerable of Elder willow and Servis
bushes along the Creek &c. theo [though] the day is warm
the Snow does not melt on the Mo. a Short distance from us.
considerable of pitch pine on the mountains, but the Snow
makes them look like the middle of winter. the valley and
plains are pleasant. towards evening the hunters all came or
returned to Camp had killed 4 Deer 2 ducks a faun deer and
Several geese. towards evening one of the hunters went up
the creek a Short distance came across three Indians a horseback
they appeared afraid of him untill he lay down his gun
they then came up to him in a friendly manner and took him
on behind one of them and rode verry fast down to our Camp.
they belong to the nation of flat heads. 2 of our hunters was
down the River in cite of the forks to day, and allow it to be
about 15 miles down the valley. these three natives tell us
that they lay in hearing of our guns all day and was afraid to
come to us. they tell us that two of the Snake Indians has
Stole 22 of their horses, and these three are in persuit of them.
one Stayed to pilot us over the mout. the other 2 proceeded
on in order to ride all night after them, intending to git their
horses if possable. our guide tells us that these waters runs in
to Mackinzees River as near as they can give an account, but
he is not acquainted that way. So we go the road he knows.

Wednesday 11th.. Sept. 1805.

a beautiful pleasant morning. we went out to hunt up our
horses, but they were So Scattered that we could not find them
all untill 12 oClock, So we dined here. the Latitude at this

place is 46°, 48′, 28 8/10″ North. the Snow on the mountain
about 1 mile to the S. W. of us does not melt but verry
little. Some of the men who were hunting the horses detained
us Untill 4 oClock at which time we Set out and proceeded on
up this Creek Course nearly West. the narrow [bo]ttom
along this creek is mostly covred with pine timber. passed a
tree on which was a nomber of Shapes drawn on it with paint
by the natives. a white bear Skin hung on the Same tree. we
Suppose this to be a place of worship among them. Came
about 7 miles this evening and Camped on a Smooth plain
near the Creek, where had lately been a large Encampment of
Indians. Saw one house made of Earth. the pine trees
pealed as far up as a man could reach. we Suppose that the
natives done it to git the enside beark to mix with their dryed
fruit to Eat. the Choke cherries are pleanty &c.

Thursday 12th.. Sept. 1805.

a white frost, and clear pleasant morning. the hunters Set out
eairly. we loaded up and Set out soon after Sunrise, and proceeded
on a Short distance. then took the mountains covred
with pitch pine. went up and down a nomber of bad hills and
mot. crossed Several runs & about 1 oClock P. M. we descended
a bad part of the mot. nearly Steep came down on the creek
again, and halted to dine. our hunters has killed this day 4
Deer and a fessent. we proceeded on crossed 2 more creeks,
and assended a high rough mountain rockey & a verry rough
trail to follow. we proced. on along the ridge which was covred
with pitch pine timber. night came on and we had to go
through the thickets of pine and over logs &c. untill about 10
oClock at in the evening before we could git any water. then
descended a Steep part of the mountain down on the Creek
which we left at noon, and Camped on the bank of the creek
where we had Scarsely room to Sleep. Came 17 ½ miles this
day. Saw high Mountains to the South of us covred with
Snow, which appears to lay their all the year round. Scarsely
any feed for our horses.

Friday 13th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy. we got our horses up all but the one Capt. Lewis
rode and a colt which our young Indian rode. we hunted
Some time for them but could not find them. then all but 2
or three loaded the horses and proceeded on a Short distance
passed a warm Spring, which nearly boiled where it Issued out
of the rocks a Short distance below the natives has dammed
it up to bathe themselves in, and the water in that place is considerable
above blood heat. it runs out in Sundry places and
Some places cooler than others. Several of us drank of the
water, it has a little sulp[h]ur taste and verry clear. these
Springs are very beautiful to See, and we think them to be as
good to bathe in &c. as any other ever yet found in the United
States. a handsom green or Small meadow on the creek near
Sd. Springs. a little above we could not git along the Indian
trail for the timber which had been blown down in a thicket of
pine &c. So we went around a hill came on the trail again and
proceeded on untill about 11 oClock and halted to dine and let
our horses feed on the main fork of the creek where was Several
beaver dams. Capt. Lewis and the men who Stayed back
to hunt their horses joined us, but had not found them our
hunters gone on a head the mountains rough and rocks which
appear above the timber like towers in Some places. the day
proved pleasant. we proceeded on assended a high mountain,
over took the hunters. they had killed a Deer. 2 of them
Sent back after Capt. Lewis's horse. we crossed the dividing
ridge found it only about half a mile from the head Spring of
the water running East to a branch running west. each heading
on an open Swamp, which is level and full of Springs,
Came [blank space in MS.] miles this day and Camped on the
branch running west where we had good feed for our horses.

Saturday 14h.. Sept. 1805.

a cloudy morning. we eat the last of our meat, and Set out
as usal. ascended a mountain covrd with pine. abt. 4 miles
we descended it down on the Creek at a fork where it ran very
rapid and full of rocks. we then ascended a verry high mountain,
about 4 miles from the forks of the creek to the top of it

went Some distance on the top then descended it about 6 miles.
Some places verry Steep. came down at another fork of the
Creek where it was considr. larger. the Natives had a place
made across in form of our wires [weirs] in 2 places, and
worked in with willows verry injeanously, for the current [was]
verry rapid. we crossed at the forks and proceeded on down
the creek. passed Several late Indian Encampments. our
Guide tells us that the natives catch a great nomber of Sammon
along here. we went down the creek abt. 4 miles and
Camped for the night. Eat a little portable Soup, but the men
in jeneral So hungry that we killed a fine Colt which eat verry
well, at this time. we had Several light Showers of rain and a
little hail. Several claps of Thunder. we came in all [blank
space in MS.] miles this day. the 2 hunters joined us with
Capt. Lewis horse which had been lost. Saw high mountan. a
little to the South of us, which are covred with Snow. the
most of these mountains are covred with pine. Saw Some tall
Strait Siprass [Cypress] or white ceeder to day. the Soil indifferent,
and verry broken. the Countrey all mountaineous.
our hunters found a Stray horse on the road. a Small Indian
horse came to us this evening.

Sunday 15th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy. we loaded up our horses and Set out at 7 oClock,
and proceeded on down the creek a Short distance crossed
Several Springs and Swampy places covred with white ceeder
and tall handsom Spruce pine, which would be excelent for
boards or Shingles. we crossed a creek a Small pond a little
below, then assended a high mountain. Some places So Steep
and rockey that Several of the horses fell backward and roled
down among the rocks 20 or 30 feet but did not kill them.
we got on to the ridge of the mot and followed it riseing over
Several high knobs, where the wind had blown down the most
of the timber. we found a Small Spring before we came to the
highest part of the mountain where we halted and drank a
little portable Soup, and proceeded on up on the top of the
mountain, which is covred with timber Spruce &c. and Some
Spots of Snow and high clifts of rocks. it is about 10 miles

from the foot of this mountain to the top and the most of the
way verry Steep. we marched on top of this mountain untill
after dark in hopes to find water, but could not find any, So we
Camped on the top ridge of the mountain without finding any
water, but found plean[ty] of Snow, which appear to have lain
all the year we melted what we wanted to drink and made or
mixd. a little portable Soup with Snow water and lay down contented.
had come [blank space in MS.] miles to day.

Monday 16th.. Sept. 1805.

when we awoke this morning to our great Surprise we were
covred with Snow which had fallen about 2 Inches the latter
part of last night, and continues a verry cold Snow Storm.
Capt. Clark Shot at a deer but did not kill it. we mended up
our mockasons. Some of the men without Socks raped rags
on their feet, and loaded up our horses and Set out without
anything to eat, and proceeded on. could hardly See the old
trail for the Snow. kept on the ridge of the mountain Several
high knobs to pass over but had more down hill than up.
about one oClock finding no water we halted and melted Snow
and made a little more Soup, and let our horses graze 1 hour
& a half. then proceeded on the Snow is fell So fast that it
is now in common 5 or 6 Inches deep. Some places is considerable
of old Snow on the moutn.. towards evening we descended
the mountain down in a lonesome cove on a creek
where we Camped in a thicket of Spruce pine & bolsom fir
timber. all being tired & hungry, obledged us to kill another
colt and eat the half of it this evening. it has quit Snowing
this evening, but continues chilley and cold. Came about 15
miles to day over a rockey rough road. Some places bare on
the top high places of rocks &c.

Tuesday 17th.. Sept. 1805.

cloudy and cold. we went out to hunt our horses, but
found them much Scatered. the mare which owned the colt,
which we killed, went back & led 4 more horses back to where
we took dinner yesterday. the most of the other horses found
Scatd. on the mountain but we did not find them all untill 12

oClock at which time we Set out and proceeded on. the Snow
lay heavy on the timber. passed along a rough road up and
down the Mountains descended down a Steep part of the
moutn.. the afternoon clear & warm. the Snow melted So
that the water Stood in the trail over our mockasons in Some
places. verry Slippery bad travvelling for our horses. we
assended verry high mountains verry rockey. Some bald
places on the top of the mountn.. high rocks Standing up, &
high precepices &c. these mouts. mostly covred with Spruce
pine & bolsom fer timber. crossed Several creeks or Spring
runs in the Course of the day Came about [MS. torn] miles
this day, and Camped at a Small branch on the mountain near
a round deep Sinque hole full of water. we being hungry
obledged us to kill the other Sucking colt to eat. one of the
hunters chased a bear in a mountn.. but killed nothing. we
expect that their is game near a head. we hear wolves howl &
Saw Some deer Sign &c.

Wednesday 18th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. Capt. Clark and Six hunters Set
out at Sunrise to go on a head to try to kill Some game if
possable. we got up all our horses except one which we expect
is lost. one man Sent back Some distance to hunt him.
we Set out about 7 oClock and proceeded on a ridge of the
mountains Some distance, then went up and down rough
rockey mountains as usal. but verry little water. about 3
oClock P. M. we halted on a ridge of the mountn.. to let our
horses feed a little, and melt a little Snow as we found no water
to make a little Port.. Soup as we have nothing else to eat. the
day moderate the Snow melts a little. the mountains appear
a head as fer as we can See. they continue much further than
we expected. we proceeded on down a verry Steep part of the
mount. then up on the side of another before we found any
water, and Campd. at dark on the Side of the motn.. where we
found a Spring by going down a Steep hill where it was dangerous
to take our horses to water. we Suped on a little
portable Soup and lay down on this Sideling mountn. Came
14 miles [to]day

Thursday 19th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal and assended
up to the top of Sd mout. and discovered a plain in a valley
about 20 miles from us where we expect is the Columbian
River. which puts us in good Spirits again. we descended
down the mountn.. which was verry Steep descent, for about
three miles. then assended another as bad as any we have ever
been up before. it made the Sweat run off of our horses & ourselves.
on the top the ground was froze a little and the ground
mostly covred with Snow. the Spruce pine & bolsom timber
continues on these motn.. as usal. Some places thick bushes.
we descd.. the mot. down in a narrow valley where we found a
run of water and halted to bate our horses and to drink a little
portable Soup. one of the men killed a fessent. their is not
any kind of game or Sign of any to be Seen in these mout.
Scarsely any birds itself. we delayed about 2 hours and proceeded
on descended the mountain about 4 miles came to a
creek running about East. we followed up the creek. a bad
peace of the road, Some places along Side of the mountn. which
is high & Steep on each Side of the creek. one of our horses
fell backward and roled about 100 feet down where it was
nearly Steep and a Solid rock & dashed against the rock in the
creek, with a load of Ammunition. but the powder being in
canisters did not git damaged nor the horse killed, but hurt.
we proceeded on. Came about 17 miles this day and Camped
at a run in Sd. mount., our course this day was generally west.
the timber continues as usal. we Suped [on] a little portable
Soup. the most of the party is weak and feeble Suffering with
hunger. our horses feet are gitting Sore and fall away in these
mountains, but we are in hopes to git out of them Soon.

Friday 20th.. Sept. 1805.

a cold frosty morning. we eat a fiew peas & a little greece
which was the verry last kind of eatables of any kind we had
except a little portable Soup. we got up our horses except
one which detained us untill about 8 oClock before we found
him. we then load up our horses and Set out. proceeded on
up the creek a Short distance and found a line which Capt. Clark

had left with the meat of a horse which they found and killed
as they had killed nothing after they left us only three prarie
hens or Phesants. we took the horse meat and put it on our
horses and proceeded on a Short distance further. then left
the creek and went over a mountain S. W. then followed
down a ridge, came to a Spring run and halted and dined
Sumptiously on our horse meat. one horse Strayed from us
which had on him a pear of portmantaus which had in it Some
marchandize and Capt. Lewis winter cloaths &c. 2 men Sent
back to the creek to hunt him. we proceeded on up and
down Several hills and followed a ridge where the timber was
fell So thick across the trail that we could hardly git along.
our horses got Stung by the yallow wasps. we did not find
any water to Camp untill after dark, and then Camped on a
ridge found a little water in a deep gulley a Short distance
from us. the different kinds of pine continues as usal. considerable
of Strait handsome timber on these ridges, which resembles
white ceeder but is called Arbervity no other kind
except the pine & bolsom fer, all of which grows verry tall and
Strait. the mountains not So high as back but verry broken.
Came about 14 miles this day. the plains appear Some distance
off yet. it is twice as far as we expected where we first
discovred it from a high mountain.

Saturday 21st.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we went out eairly to hunt up
our horses, but they were much Scatered. we did not find
them all untill about 10 oClock at which time we Set out and
proceeded on crossed a creek & went on a west course over
a hilley rough trail. on Some of the ridges the timber has
been killed by fire and fell across the trail So that we had Some
difficulty to git a long the trail. in the after part of the day
we descended down a hill & came to the forks of a creek where
it is large. we went down it a Short distance and Camped at
a good place for feed near the creek. had Come 11 miles this
day. Capt. Lewis killed a wolf. Some of the men killed a
duck and three Phesants. we caught Some craw fish in the
creek, and eat them.

Sunday 22nd.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. a white frost. we were detained
Some time a hunting our horses. about nine oClock we found
all the horses and Set out ascended a mountain and proceeded
on Came on a Smoth level clear place & a run of water.
met R. Fields who Capt. Clark Sent back to meet us with Some
Sammon and other kinds of food which they had purcd. from
Some Indians which they found Encamped about 8 miles from
this. we halted and divided out the food and eat it found it
verry good. we delayed about one hour & a half, then proceeded
on. the 2 men who had been back for the lost horse
soon overtook us. they had found the horse & portmauntaus,
and took on the horse with the one they took with them untill
last night then they lost boath of the horses. they expect
that they were Stole by Some of the natives. So they brought
the portmantaus &c. on their backs. we proceeded on over a
mountain and down in a handsome Smoth valley. ariv[ed]
at an Indian village in a delightful plain. large pitch pine
around it. these Savages was verry glad to See us the men
women & children ran meeting us & Seemed rejoiced to See
us. we Camped near [the] village at a Small branch. the
natives gave us Such food as they had to eat, consisting of
roots of different kinds which was Sweet and good also red &
black haws &c. the principal roots which they made use off for
food are pleanty. this praries are covred with them they are
much like potatoes when cooked, and they have a curious way
of cooking them. th[e]y have places made in form of a Small
coal pit, & they heat Stone in the pit. then put Straw over
the Stone, then water to raise a Steem. then they put on large
lo[a]ves of the pounded potatoes, and 8 or 10 bushels of potatoes
on at once then cover them with wet Straw and Earth.
in that way they Sweet [sweat] them untill they are cooked, and
when they take them out they pound Some of them up fine
and make them in loaves and cakes. they dry the cakes and
String them on Strings, in Such a way that they would keep a
year & handy to carry, any journey. Capt. Clark arived here
this evening, and informed us that he had been on a branch of
the Columbian River where it was navigable for canoes, and

only about 8 & half miles from this place & a good road. the
hunters Stayed at the River to hunt. one of them had killed
2 Deer at the River. the natives gave us Some excelent fat
Sammon to eat with the root or potatoe bread.

Monday 23rd.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we purchased considerable quantity
of Sammon and root or potatoe bread from the natives.
these natives are now at war with Some other nation to the
west, and the most of the warrie[r]s, are mostly gone to war,
and the women are engaged laying up food for the winter as
they tell us that they intend going over to the Missourie in the
Spring after the buffaloe &c. Some of the natives have copper
kittles, and beeds a fiew knives &c. which they tell us that
they got from the traders to the west, which must have Come
from the western ocean. they are verry fond of our marchandize.
the large blue beeds they are the fondest of but are glad
to git anything we have. a Small peace of red cloath, as wide
as a mans hand they gave as much for as they would for
double the value in any other article. our officers gave the
chiefs of this village a flag & one to the chief of the next village
about 2 miles further on our road, which they hoisted.
these natives live well are verry kind and well dressed in
mountain Sheep & deer & Elk Skins well dressed. they have
buffaloe robes but are verry choice of them. in the afternoon
we got up our horses, all except one which we could not find.
we loaded up our horses, left one man who had not found his
horse, and went down to the next village about 2 miles and
Camped. bought Some more Sammon and Some dressed Elk
Skins &c. we had a Shower of rain attended with Thunder
this evening. these Savages at this village live the Same as
those at the other village. they are numerous and talk loud
& confused. they live [with] much comfort in their villages.
Several lodges all join. the most of them have leather lodges,
and are makeing flag lodges &c.

Tuesday 24th.. Sept. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we went out eairly a hunting
our horses, which were Scatered all over the plain. Saw a vast

nomber of horses which belong to the natives, the most of
which are in good order and good horses in general. Saw a
nomber of Squaws digging the wild potatoes in the plains. the
Soil verry rich and lays handsom for cultivation. we loaded
up our horses. one man Sent back in the mountains to look
for the 2 horses which was lost about 8 oClock we Set out
and proceeded on. the day warm. had a fine road mostly
plain, Some Scatering large pitch pine, but little water. Several
of the men Sick, by eating hearty of the Sweet food and
Sammon. towards evening we came on the branch or fork of
Columbian River, and followed down it Some distance, and
went on a Small prarie Island and Camped. a hard rapid at
the foot of this Island which the natives tell us is the last bad
rapid in this fork of [the] River the hunters joined us with
4 Deer & 2 Sammon which they had killed. Several of the
natives followed after us and Camped with us. high hills each
Side of the River thinly covred with pine but not large enofe
for canoes, but we expect to find Some near, So that we may
leave our horses in the care of a chief and go down by water to
the ocean.

Wednesday 25th.. Sept. 1805.

a fine morning. three men out a hunting. Capt. Clark went
with a chief down the River to look for timber which would
answer for to make cannoes. the natives have Several Small
cannoes in the River one at th[is] place. this River is about
Sixty yards wide and gener[ally] deep. Some clifts of rocks
along the Shores. the natives have a fishery fixed in the River
[a] little above our Camp in which they catch large quantity
of Sammon. they went withe the canoes and took in Several
to day. they gig a great many also. towards evening Capt.
Clark returned had been down about 4 miles at a fork which
came in on the east Side. he informs us that their is Some
timber at the forks but not verry large & knotty. So we conclude
to move down tomorrow. the natives drive a nomber of
their horses from the villages to this place. the man who
Stayed at the village for his horse arived here this evening.
had got his horse by hireing Indians to git him.

Thursday 26th.. Sept. 1805.

clear and pleasant. we got up our horses and Set out about
8 oClock and proceeded on down the River crossed a creek
which came in on the East Side. then crossed the River at a
Shole place, but wide the water to the horses belleys. proceeded
on down the South Side of the River and Camped
opposite the fork which came in on the N. Side. we formed
our Camp in a narrow plain on the bank of the River. made
a pen of pine bushes around the officers lodge, to put all our
baggage in. Some of the natives followed us with droves of
horses. Some came down the N. fork whoe had been up Some
distance a fishing. had with them a Small raft which they
came on with all their baggage, Sammon &c. they ran fast on
a Shole place about the middle of the River opposite our
Camp, and came out to See us. Some Indians came down
from our last nights Camp in a canoe with Sammon &c. we
went about helving our axes and git in readiness to begin the
canoes. Several of the men Sick with the relax, caused by a
suddin change of diet and water as well as the climate changed
a little also.

Friday 27th.. Sept. 1805.

a fair morning. the party divided in five parties and went
at falling five pitch pine trees for canoes, all near the Camp.
in the afternoon the man who went back to the mountains after
the lost horses joined us had found one of the horses, & had
killed a large Deer, which he brought to Camp with him.

Saturday 28th.. Sept. 1805.

a fair morning. 2 men went out to hunt. all that were able
went at work makeing the canoes & oars. the natives visit us.
they catch a fiew fresh Sammon which we purchase from them.
we fixed Some gigs on poles in order to gig Some ourselves.
Several of the party are unwell and all takeing medicine.

Sunday 29th.. Sept. 1805.

a fair morning. all hands who were able to work are employed
at the canoes. only two who went out to hunt. about
noon the hunters Came to Camp with three Deer. which they
had killed. the natives caught a nomber of Sammon which
they Sold to us.

Monday 30th.. Sept. 1805.

two hunters Stayed out last night. a fair morning. the
Sick men are gitting Some better. we continued our work at
the canoes as usal. our constant hunter out to day. the party
in general are So weak and feeble that we git along Slow with
the canoes. our hunters returned towards evening one of
them had killed a Deer & a pheasant.

Tuesday 1st.. October 1805.

a fair morning we continued working at the canoes. built
fires on Several of the canoes to burn them out found that
they burned verry well. the hunters killed nothing this day.

Wednesday 2nd.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. two men Sent up to the villages with Six
of our horses and Some marchandize to trade for Sammon and
their kind of bread &c. we continued our work as usal at the
canoes. Some hunters out in the hills a hunting. towards
evening the hunters returned had killed nothing but one
prarie wolf, which we eat. the party are So weak working
without any kind of meat, that we concluded to kill a horse
and accordingly we did kill a horse which was in tollarable
order, and we eat the meat with good Stomacks as iver we did
fat beef in the States. we bought a fiew fresh Sammon &
Some root bread from the natives &c.

Thursday 3rd.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. we continued on our work at the canoes as
usal. Some of them forward &c.

Friday 4th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. two men out a hunting. we continue at
the canoes Some of them ready to dress and finish off. our
hunters killed nothing this day. Some of the men eat a fat
dog.

Saturday 5th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair cool frosty morning. the two men who had been at
the villages trading, returned late last night, with their horses
loaded with the root bread and a Small quantity of Sammon, a
fiew Elk Skins dressed & otter Skins for caps &c. we continue
on finishing off the canoes. got up our horses and
cropped their fore mane, and branded them with a Sturrip
Iron on the near fore Shoulder, So that we may know them
again at our return. a Chief who we Intended leaveing our
horses with has engaged to go on with us & leaves the horses
in care of his two Sons. 38 in nomber of the horses which we
delivered up in their care towards evening we put two of the
canoes which was finished in to the River. (the distance over
the mountn.. is estimated to be 160 odd miles from where we
left Flatt head River, to this place.

Sunday 6th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we continued on with the other
canoes & a carch or hole dug to berry our pack Saddles in.
we got poles & oars ready. towards evening we got the
other canoes ready to put in the water. Some gig poles prepared
&c. a raft Seen floating down the River with Several
Indians on it. one of the men killed 2 ducks. berryed the
pack Saddles and Some Ammunition &c.

Monday 7th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. we put the other three canoes in to the
River and got them in readiness and loaded them. about 3
oClock P. M. we Set out on our way to descend the River.
the 2 Indians we came over the mount. with us continues on
with us, and a chief & one more Indian who agreed to go
down with us has gone by land Some distance down, and then
Intends comming on board. we proceeded on over a nomber

of bad rapids where the canoes run fast and obledged us to git
out in the cold water and hale them off. Some places the
water is deep & current gentle for Some distance, but the
Shole rapids are common & rockey. the River hills make
close to the River on each Side. Some clifts of rocks, a fiew
Scattering pine trees on the hills, but they are mostly barron
broken & covred over with grass. Some Small cotton wood
along the Shores. Some of the rapids which are deep enofe to
run clear are So bad that we take water over the canoes by the
waves. Strike Some large rocks & Slide of [f] without Injury.
Came 21 miles and Camped on Stard. Side the officers canoe
leaks So that they changes their Baggag[e] in an other canoe
for fear of gitting the Instruments &c wet. the Evening
cloudy. one man taken Sick with the collick. we passed
Some old Indian Camps this afternoon & a Small canoe on
Shore.

Tuesday 8th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair day. we dilayed loading &c. burryed a canister of
powder [on] the Northe Side of a broken toped tree. about 9
oClock we Set out and proceeded on down the River. Saw
Some Indian horses on the Side of the hills passed over Several
bad rapids. took Some water in the canoes by the waves
dashing over the Sides. the current rapid the most part of the
way some places deep. passed clifts of rocks and bare hills
on each Side. about 12 oClock we Came to Some Indian
Camps, on the South Side, only 4 or 5 lodges of well looking
Indians & Squaws. they had Several Small canoes and catch
considerable quantitys of Sammon. we purchased Some from
them by giving them a fiew green or blue or red beeds, and
tin &c. the day warm. Some of the men bought 2 dogs
from them. they have a great many horses feeding along the
Shores and have a nomber of Small canoes. we proceeded
on a Short distance further down came to Some more Indian
Camps at the foot of an Isl. & rapids. we halted a Short time,
bought Some more Sammon and Some white roots. then proceeded
on a Short distance further down 2 chiefs came with
us. as we were descending a rockey rapids at the foot of an

Island on which was Some Indian Camps, one of the canoes
Struck a rock and whe[e]led round then Struck again and
cracked the canoe and was near Spliting hir in too. throwed
the Stearsman over board, who with difficulty got to the canoe
again, but She soon filled with water, and hang on the rocks
in a doleful Situation. Some of the men on board could not
Swim, and them that could had no chance for the waves and
rocks. an Indian went in a Small canoe to their assistance.
our little canoe went also and took out Some of the loading,
and carried it to Shore. we unloaded one of the other canoes
and went in the rapid and took the loading all out of the canoe
which was Stove and got all to Shore below the rapid, and
Camped at dark examined found everry thing wet which was
in the canoe that was Stove. Some Small articles lost. a
nomber of the natives visit us this evening. we have come
about 18 miles this day before the Sad axident hapened to us.

Wednesday 9th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. we were obledged to delay and prepare or
repair the canoe which got Stove last evening, put the loading
marchandize &c out to dry. the natives brought us Some
fresh Sammon. the River hills are high and continue barron
on each Side. a fiew Scattering pines along the Shores. but
fiew creeks puts in. the natives hang about us as though they
wished to Steal or pilfer Something from us So we had to keep
2 Sentinels to watch the Marchandize &c. we got the canoe
repaired and loaded. our officers tryed to purchase a fat horse
for us to eat but the Natives did not bring him as they promised.
in the evening we purchased a considerable quantity
of Sammon, a little bears oil or greese, Some root bread, 2
dogs &c. after dark we played the fiddle and danced a little.
the natives were pleased to see us. one of their women was
taken with the crazey fit by our fire. She Set to Singing
Indian and gave all around hir Some roots, and all She offered
had to take from hir. one of our men refused to take them
from hir. She then was angry and hove them in the fire,
and took a Sharp flint from hir husband and cut hir arms

in Sundry places So that the blood gushed out. She wiped
up the blood and eat it. then tore off Some beeds and peaces
of copper &c. which hung about hir and gave out to them that
were round hir a little to each one. Still kept hir Singing and
makeing a hishing noise. She then ran around went to the
water Some of her kindred went after hir and brought hir
back She then fell in to a fit and continued Stiff and Speechless
Some time they pored water on hir face untill She came
too. Capt. Clark gave hir Some Small things which pleased
hir.

Thursday 10th.. Oct. 1805.

a fair morning. our 2 Indians who came with us from the
Snake nation left us yesterday. we Set out eairly and proceeded
on down Several bad rapids took in Some water in the canoes.
passed Several Indian fishing camps where we bought Some
Sammon from them they have a nomber of Small canoes
along the Shore. about 11 oClock we came to a verry bad
rockey rapid, where we halted and took one canoe over at
a time. one of the canoes ran fast on a rock Stove a hole in
hir Side with Some difficulty we got hir to Shore, unloaded
and repaired hir Some of the natives caught Some of our
oars and poles which was washed away in the rapids. we
bought some more Sammon & a dog or two. about 2 oClock
we proceeded on passed Several more fishing Camps. passed
down Some verry bad rapids which were Shallow. we had
to wade in Several rapids to hale the canoes over. about
5 oClock P. M. we arived at the forks of the Columbian
river. we proceeded on down it a Short distance and the
wind blew So high from the west that we Camped on the
Starbord Side. had come 20 miles this day & mostly a west
course a nomber of fishing camps along the Shores about the
forks. this is a large River afords a large body of water & is
about 400 yards wide, and of a greenish coulour. No timber
barron & broken praries on each Side.

Chapter XV

THE RAPIDS OF THE SNAKE AND COLUMBIA

XV. October 11–20, 1805

Friday 11th.. Oct. 1805.

a FAIR morning. we Set out eairly. two more
Indians with a Small canoe accompy. us. we proceeded
on passed over Some rapid water but the
current mostly gentle. about 8 oClock we came to a fishing
Camp & party of Indians, where we bought considerable
quantity of Sammon, and 8 or 10 fat dogs to eat. Some
dryed haws &c. Saw among them Some peace of fish net
which they must have come from white people. a tea kettle
made of copper Seen also &c. we proceeded on passed a
great nomber of fishing camps where the natives fish in the
Spring. the Stone piled up in roes So that in high water
the Sammon lay along the Side of the line of rocks while they
would gig them. the country is barron a high hills and clifts
of rocks on each Side of the River not even a tree to be
Seen no place. a fiew willows along the Shores Some places.
Some rapids in the River but Some of them roles high waves
but a large body of water. we roed 30 miles this day and
Camped at a fishing Camp of Indians on the S. Side where
we bought 3 or 4 more dogs and Some Sammon &c. one
Indian from an other nation came among them f[rom] falls

Saturday 12th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded
on as usal. the country continues the Same as yesterday.
Saw a nomber of old fishing Camps along the Shores. the
current Swift in Some places, but gentle in general. about

12 oClock we halted to dine on the Lard. Shore could
Scarsely find wood enofe to cook our victules. Capt. Lewis
took an Meridian observation. we then proceeded on verry
well passed Several more fishing Camps. the wind rose hard
from the west our general course west. high clifts of rocks
& high prarie on each Side. this River is verry handsom
and country pleasant but no timber at all. we Came 35 miles
this day and Camped on the Starbord Side at the head of a
bad rockey rapid which we expect is difficult to pass. the
Indians canoe and our Small pilot canoe went over this
evening. we expect that we have got past the numerous
flat head nation. only the guides who are with us they tell
us that in 2 days more we will come to another nation at a
fork which comes in on the S. Side of the Columbian River.

Sunday 13th.. Oct. 1805.

a rainy wet morning. we delayed untill about 10 oClock
A. M. then took 2 of the canoes at a time down the rapids
all the men which could not Swim went by land and carried
Some rifles & Instruments &c. we got Safe below the rapids
by 12 oClock. dined on Sammon and proceeded over Several
more rapids the wind hard a head. cleard off about 2 oC.
P. M. we Saw Several Old camps where the natives fish in
the Spring, but no timber except what they raft down a long
distance, and they Scaffel it up verry carefully. towards
evening we came to a verry rockey place in the River &
rapid the River all confined in a narrow channel only about
15 yds.. wide for about 2 mile and ran as [s]wift as a mill tale
the canoes ran down this channel Swifter than any horse could
run. a great fishery below these rapids. Saw 2 Indians Swim
their horses across the River to the N. S. and follow down
the River they have to ride fast to keep up with us for the
current mostly rapid. the clifts & hills high plains & barrons
continues on each Side of the River as usal. we Came [blank
space in MS.] miles this day, and Camped on the Stard. Side.
passed a Creek on the Lard. Side this aftr..noon.

Monday 14th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear cold morning the wind high a head & west. we
took an eairly breakfast and Set out and proceeded on. as
usal the current mostly rapid about noon we went down a
verry bad rockey rapid the worst we have passd. in this River.
three of the canoes ran fast on a Solid rock at the head of the
rapids two on at a time and was in great dangr. of being lost.
one Struck a rock in the middle of the rapids and luckily
escaped being Stove. as luck would have it we all got Safe
down. a Small Island near the Lard. Side, in the rapids we
halted a little below to dine. two Indians are rideing down
the River, and have to ride verry fast to keep up with us. we
proceeded on verry well about 8 miles then came to a rockey
rapid at the head of an Island in which one of the canoes
under charge of Sergt. ordway ran fast on a Solid rock. they
got out on the rock and attempted to Shove the canoe off the
rock, but could not Start hir for Some time. the waves
dashed over hir bow So that when we got hir loose from the
rock She filled full of water and considerable of the baggage
and bedding washed out. one of the canoes below unloaded
and went to their assistance. took out Some of the loading.
the canoe then broke away from them and left 4 men Standing
on the rock. the water half leg deep over the Smooth rock
& rappid. a canoe Shortly went and took them off the rock,
and got all to Shore except a Small brass kittle & bowl, 2
mens robes & blankets 2 Spoons, one bag of root bread one
Shot pouch & powder horn a dressed Elk Skin and Some
other Small articles. we Camped below the rapids on Sd. Island
and put out all the wet baggage to dry. we found Some wood
on the Island covered up with Stones where the natives
burryed Sammon everry Spring. wood was So Scarse that we
made use of that which was covred So carefully with Stone.
we came [blank space in MS.] miles this day. the country
continues barron. Some places broken, other places high
Smooth plains &c. Some or one of the men killed 7 or 8
ducks today.

Tuesday 15th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear cool morning. we delayed here to dry the baggage.
Some of the men went out and killed three geese & Several
ducks. about 3 oClock P. M. we loaded up the canoes and
Set out and proceeded on over Several rapids and Swift water.
passed Several Scaffels of wood where it was put up to be
Saved for the use of their fishing in the Spring, the country
continues as yesterday. we came 17 miles and Camped above
a bad rapid on a Sand bar no wood except an Indians
Scaffel we had to take Some of the wood for our use this
evening.

Wednesday 16th.. Oct. 1805.

we Set out as usal and proceeded on. Over Several bad
rapids which was full of rocks. one of the canoes Struck a
rock in a rapid and Swung on it they Stayed their untill we
unloaded and took a canoe I was on board the canoe which
Struck. the small canoes came to our assistance also. we
got the load and canoe Safe to Shore, loaded again and proceeded
on over Several more rapids then came to a verry
bad rapid, the worst or had the highest waves of any we have
yet passd. we halted above the rapid and carried considerable
of the baggage by land about a mile. then took the canoes
Safe over, and loaded up and proceeded on down Several
more rapids towards evening we arived at the forks of the
river which came from a northly direction and is larger than
this Column. R. the country around these forks is level
Smooth barron plains not even a tree to be Seen as far as our
eyes could extend a fiew willows along the Shores. we found
about 2 hundred or upwards Camped on the point between
the two Rivers. a verry pleasant place. we Camped near
them on the point. the natives Sold us eight dogs and Some
fresh Sammon. the whole band came in a body Singing in
their form to our fires and Smoaked with us and appeared
friendly. they have beeds and brass and coper in Small peaces
hanging about them, which they Sign to us that they got them
from white people on a River to the north, and Some down
about the mouth of this River. we went [blank space in
MS.] miles this day. passed Several Islands &c.

Thursday 17th. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we delay here to day for our
officers to take observations &c. the natives Sold us a nomber
more dogs and fresh Sammon &c. these Savages have but
verry. fiew buffalow Robes, but are dressed in deer & Elk
Skins. the deer Skins are dressed with the hair on and Sowed
together in robes. Some of them have red and blew cloath
and a nomber of articles which came from Some white people.
they have Some horses. they Sign to us that their is deer and
Elk below this. we Saw an emence Site of fowls on the plain
considerable la[r]ger than the prarie or haith [heath] hens.
Some of the party went out and killed 3 of them. we now
call the north fork as it is the largest the Columbian River,
and the other which we came down loose [loses] it[s] name
from Columb. and we call it after the Indian name ki-moo-e-nem.
the Columbian River is more Smooth and the current gentle
the Natives have a great nomber of canoes, and fishing camps
along the Shores. Capt. Clark and two men went up the
Columb. River in a canoe 3 or 4 miles to the Indians lodges
they Saw a vast quantitys of live Sammon in the River they
giged one which was verry larg[e] they Saw a great nomber
lay dead on [the] Shores. Some of the men killed Several
more haith hens most as large as Turkeys. we cannot find
out what nation these are as yet, but our officers gave the
principal men meddles a flag and Some other Small articles
&c. we bought in all 26 dogs from the natives this day.
these Savages are peaceable but verry poor. they have nothing
of any account to trade. a nomber of them have not any thing
to cover their nakedness, but the greater part of them have
dressed deer & Elk Some rabit Skins &c. to cover themselves.
Saw a nomber of horses on the opposite Shore. we have
lately Seen a nomber of their grave yards pickeded in &c.

Friday 18th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we delay untill after 12 oClock
today for Gapt. Lewis to complete his observations. Capt. Clark
measured the width [of the] Columbian River and the ki-moo-e-nem
found the Columbian R. to be 860 yards wide and the

ki-moo-e-nem River to be 475 yards wide at the forks. Some
of the party killed Several more haith hens about 12 oClock
we loaded up the canoes. Capt. Lewis took down Some of
three languages of these Savages, as fer as we could make them
understand. about 2 oClock P. M. we Set out only two chiefs
with us who come with us from the flat heads. we proceeded
on down the Columbia River, which is now verry wide from a
half a mile to three forths wide and verry Smooth & pleasant
the country level for about 16 miles down then the hills and
clifts made near the River, and Some Rapid places in the
River. passd. Several Islands on which was large camps of
Indians and Scaffels of abundance of Sammon. Saw the Sammon
thick jumping in the river Some dead in the R. and
along the Shore. the Latitude at the forks as taken by Capt.
Lewis and Clark is [blank space in MS.] North. we proceeded
on over Several rapids places passd. Several large Camps of
Indians which have flag lodges and abundance of Sammon, and
have a great nomber of horses we went [blank space in MS.]
miles and Saw no timber of any acct. not a tree to be Seen. we
Camped on the Lard. Side. got a fiew Small willows only to
burn. a nomber of the natives came in their canoes to See us.
they have a great nomber of Small canoes &c.

Saturday 19th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear cold morning. took an eairly breakfast. the Natives
came to See us in their canoes. brought us Some fish which
had been roasted and pounded up fine and made up in balls,
which eat verry well. about 7 oC. A. M. we Set out and proceeded
on down the R. passed high clifts of rocks on each Side
passd over Several rockey rapids. our officers gave one of the
Natives we left this morning a meddel. we passed Several Islands
on which was Indian fishing Camps. the natives all hid
themselves in their flag lodges when they Saw us comming.
the Indians are numerous the camps near each other along
the Shores the River pleasant only at the rapids which are
common we passd. over Several today but no exident hapened.
the Country around level plains except Some hills & clifts
along the Shores. we discovred a high hill or mountn along

distance down the River which appears to have Snow on it.
we went 36 miles this day and Campd. opposite a large Indian
Camp on the South Side a great nomber of the natives come
over in their canoes to see us. when any of these natives die
they deposite all their property with them. we Saw one of
their grave yards to day, even a canoe was Split in peaces and
Set up around the yard Several other art. [articles] also.

Sunday 20th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear frosty morning. we Set out eairly. passed a handsom
peace of the River the country low Smooth plains on
each Side. Saw Some pillicans, and abundance of crows &
ravens, as the Shores is lined with dead Sammon. about 12
oClock we came to a large Indian Camp on the point of a large
Island. we halted to dine. we bought Several Small articles
from the natives and Saw Some articles which came from Some
white people Such as copper kittles, red cloth Some arsh [ash]
paddles &c. we proceeded on passed a great nomber of Indian
Camps, where they had abundance of fish hung on Scaffels to
dry. passed over Several rapids to day but no exident hapened.
the country continues as usal the hunters killed 9 ducks and
a goose this day. we Come 46 miles and Camped on the
Stard. Side. no wood only a fiew Small Sticks, & green willow
&c. we Saw Some akehorns among the natives which is a Sign
of oak being in the country for they boil and eat them. we
Saw red cloth which appeared to have come from white people
this last Sommer.

Chapter XVI

DESCENDING THE COLUMBIA TO
TIDEWATER

XVI. October 21–November 1, 1805

Monday this 21st.. Oct. 1805.

a CLEAR cold morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded
on as usal, untill about 8 oClock at which time we halted
at an Indian Camp where we bought Some wood and
cooked breakfast. bought Some pounded fish from the Natives
and Some roots bread which was made up in cakes in form
of ginger bread and eat verry well. Saw a nomber of Rackoon
Skins also otter and fisher Skins &c. they gave us any thing
we asked for by our giving any Small article we pleased we
proceeded on passed clifts of rocks and River hills on each Side
passed over Several verry bad rockey rapids, where the River
was nearly filled with high rocks of a dark coulour, and the
water divided in narrow deep channels, where we ran through
verry fast high waves and whorl pools below. passd. Several
Islands and fishing Camps where the natives had a large quantity
of pounded fish the best of their Sammon pounded up and
put up in Small Stacks along the Shore for winter, & cover
them with Straw and pile the Stone around them. the Solid
clifts continue on each Side. Saw a little Scattering pine timber
on the hills on each Side of the River. Some places the
rocks are high and Steep. we went about 32 miles and Camped
at Some Indian Camps on the Stard. Side. a handsom Spring
run from a clift of rocks near our Camp. we bought Some
wood from the Natives to cook with these natives appeer to
be mostly covd. in deer and Elk Some rabit & Squerrel Skins.
they have Some blew Cloth blankets &c. we passed a Small
River which came in on the Lard. Side.

Tuesday 22nd.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out Soon after Sunrise
and proceeded on passed fishing Camps on the Stard. Side high
clifts on each Side of dark couloured rock, and a high rock
Island with rough towers of Solid rough rocks on it a verry
rough roaring rapid at the Stard. Side which is the main body
of the River we went down on the Lard. Side a river puts in
on the Lard. Side about 40 yards wide & falls in it. opposite
the lower part of the Island high hills & clifts on each Side,
but the highest is on the Stard. Side. all the natives on this
River at the most of their Camps have fish nets [with] which
they catch the Sammon in the Spring in great abundance.
Saw considerable of Sand along the Shores for Several days
past. we proceeded on to the lower end of Sd. Island which is
about 4 mile long at the lower end is a great nomber of
fishing Camps a Short distance below is the first falls of the
Columbian River. we halted [a] little above about noon, and
bought Some pounded fish and root bread of the natives who
are verry thick about these falls. Some of them have flag
lodges and Some have cabbins of white ceeder bark. they
have an abunduance of dry and pounded [fish]. bags full of
Sammon and heaps of it on the Shores they have a nomber
of Small canoes, and have a nomber of well looking horses.
high clifts of rocks near on each Side of the falls. we found
the falls to be about [blank space in MS.] feet of a perpinticular
pitch and filled with Solid rocks cut in many channels.
a mist rizes continually from the falls. we found that we had
to make a portage of about ¾ of a mile on the Stard. Side. So
we went to carrying the baggage by land on our backs. hired
a fiew horse loads by the natives So we got all the baggage
below the falls this evening and Camped close to a high range
of clifts of rocks, where the body of the River beat against it
and formed a large Eddy. the natives Sign to us that it is
only about Six miles below, to the next or other falls. we
Saw Several Sea otter in and about these falls. the natives are
troublesome about our Camp. we had went about [blank space
in MS.] miles before we came to these falls. these natives
Sign to us that Some white people had been here but were

gone four or 5 days journey further down. the perpinticular
clifts at our Camp is [blank space MS.] feet high.

Wednesday 23rd.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we took an eairly breakfast in
order to undertake gitting the canoes by the falls. about
8 oClock A. M. we all went with Capt. Clark and took the
canoes across the River then halled them round a perpinticular
pitch of 21 feet. we halled all canoes round the high rocks
about a quarter of a mile then put them in the water again.
this portage has been frequented by the natives halling their
canoes round, and it is a great fishery with them in the Spring.
and the flees are now verry thick, the ground covd. with them.
they troubled us verry much this day. we got the canoes all
in the River below the great falls of 22 feet perpinticular then
went on board again and ran verry rapid through the whorl
pools a little better than a half a mile then came to 2 little
falls of about 3 feet each we let the canoes down by ropes
one of them got away from us from the Lower Shoot and was
taken up by the Indians below. towards evening we got all
the canoes Safe down to Camp. the Latitude at this place which
is called the grand falls of the Columbia River is 45°, 42′,
57.3″. the hight of the falls is in all 37 feet 8 Inches, and
has a large Rock Island in them and look Shocking, but are
ordinary looking. Some of the Sick men at Camp bought
Several fat dogs this day. in the evening one of our chief[s]
Signed to us that the Savages had a design to kill us in the
night, which put us on our guard. but we were not afraid of
them for we think we can drive three times our nomber.

Thursday 24th.. Oct. 1805

a clear cool morning we loaded up and Set out about
9 oClock and proceeded on down. the current verry rapid.
we went through a place wher the River was all confined in a
narrow channel of about 20 yds.. wide high rocks on each Side
the current verry rapid and full of whorl pools we ran down
verry fast, passed Several fishing Camps. high barron land on

each Side of the River. about 4 oClo [ck] P. M. we went
down a bad rapid where the River was cut in rockey Isld. &c.
a Short distance below we came to another narro [ws] where
the River is filled with high rocks. we halted and Camped
for the night at a village of Savages or red people, which have
their houses in our form only they have them in the ground
except the roof which is covred with white ceeder bark Some
hewn plank which are verry nice comfortable houses their flag
mats &c. we bought from them Some cakes of white root
bread and other kinds cramberies &c. we bought a nomber
of fat dogs and Some wood for us to cook with. their appears
to be Some timber back from the River. their has been white
people tradeing among these Savages Saw one half white
child among them. Saw also a new copper tea kittle beeds
copper and a nomber of other articles which must have come
from Some white trader. we had went only 7 miles this day.

Friday 25th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear morning. we carrd Some of our baggage about a
mile, which took us below the worst of the rapids, then took
one canoe down the rapids and narrows where the whole
channel is confined in a narrow channel only about 25 yards
wide. one of the canoes nearly fi[lled] running through the
rapids waves & whorl pools. we got all the canoes down and
loaded them. we have bought a large quantity about 16
common bags of pounded Sammon Some white bread cramberies
&c. about 3 oClock we Set out and proceeded on
down the narrows which lasted abt. 2 miles verry rapid 2
Small Islands of Solid rocks Stood in the channel one of the
canoes ran hir bow aggainst the point and glanced off, without
Injury. the water or River between these narrows and the
falls, rises at high water 48 feet perpinticular by its being confined
by the different narrows. a little [below] or at the lower
end of the narrows we Saw a war party of Indians, with
horses. they had deer & bear meat with them the head
chief had on a jacket that was made of Some kind of worked
Splits which would defend off the arrows. our Capts. gave him

a meddle, and he gave our Capts. Some bears oil and a fresh
Sammon our 2 chiefs came to us and told us that their was
a nation below that which had a design to kill them and us
So they left us in order to return to their own village again.
we then proceeded on about eight miles the hils high Some
pine and oak timbr. to be Seen the River got Smooth. we
Campd. on a high point of rocks little below the mouth of a
creek on the Lard. Side. timbered country back from the
River [on] each Side. Saw drumm fish jump in Rivr.

Saturday 26th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we lay campd. on the clift or pt.
of rocks for Safety. 2 Sentinels to guard us. our officers
conclude to delay here for observations and repair the canoes
&c. So we unloaded all the canoes Shaved the bottoms
Smooth and pay them over and made them in good repair &c.
Several men out a hunting. a nomber of the natives visited
us. we dryed the articles which got wet in the canoe that
filled yesterday. one of the men giged a Sammon Trout in
the River. towards evening the hunters returned to Camp
had killed five Deer a goose and a gray Squirrel. they Saw a
great nomber of deer in the timbered land. we Saw a great
no [mber] of geese and ducks. the Savages came in crafts to
our Camp made of Solid wood but are made in form of Sciffs
for the convenience of rideing the waves in high winds, or to
coast along the Sea Shore. Several of the Indians Stayed with
us this night one of them a chief. Capt. Lewis compared the
languages of these with those which he had taken down all the
way this Side of the mountains, and find them to be all one
nation but differ a little in their languages, caused by the
different tribes of them Scatered Such a long distance from
each other. all the way thick along the kimoo-e-nem &
Columbia Rivers and to the head of all the Rivers runing in to
it. we think the flat head nation to be ten Thousand Strong
in all. the River began to raise about 4 oClock P. M. and
raised Several Inches, the cause of which we think that the
tide Swels a little up to this place.

Sunday 27th.. Oct. 1805.

a clear morning. the wind high from the west. 6 of the
party went out to hunt, back from the River in the timbered
country, Such as white oak and pitch pine. the wind continued
high all day in the evening the hunters returned to
Camp had killed 4 Deer. we Set the Savages across the
River which had been with us all day eating our venison.
our officers gave one of the principal men a meddle &c.

Monday 28th.. Oct. 1805.

the wind Seased the later part of last night, and began to
rain and rained moderately untill morning. then cleared off
we loaded up the canoes and Set out about 9 oClock the
wind raised and blew high from the west. we proceeded on
about 4 miles and halted at an Indian village of about 6 lodges
where we Saw an old Brittish musket and Sword, copper tea
kittles &c, we bought Several 5 fat dogs, Some root bread &c.
then proceeded on a Short distance further down the wind
rose So high from the west that caused the waves to roll So
that we thought it not Safe to proceed So we halted under a
clift of rocks on the Lard. Side. had Several Squalls of rain &
high [wind] all day. So we Camped for the night. one of
the party killed a Deer this evening, and wounded another
near a Small pond a Short distance back from the River a
nomber of the natives visited us &c.

Tuesday 29th.. Oct. 1805.

a cloudy morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on
about 6 miles and halted for breakfast at Some Indian villages
on the Stard.. Side, where we bought a nomber more fat dogs
we proceeded on the current gentle passed a great nomber of
Indian villages on the Stard. Side which had their houses built
like those at the falls. Saw 2 or 3 Camps on the Lard. Side,
which was the first we Saw on that Side of the Colm. R. passed
the mo. of two creeks, one on each Side, and a Spring on Lard.
Side which ran of[f] a high clift of rocks which looked curious.
the country this day mountaineous high clifts of rocks on each

Side of the River. the country mostly timbred Such as pine
and oak. Some cottonwood on Some of the narrow bottoms
along the Shores willows also. we bought Several more dogs
at one of the villages. went 26 miles and Camped at a village
on the Stard. Side in a Small or narrow bottom of large cotton
trees. we bought Several bags of pounded Sammon today.
we Saw Snow on the timbred mountains on the Lard. Side a
little back from the River.

Wednesday 30th.. Oct. 1805.

cloudy. we bought 3 dogs of the Indians, and Set out about
7 oClock and proceeded on. the river verry Strait and wide.
the Timber thick on each Side. Saw a nomber of beautiful
Springs running out of the clifts on the Lard. Side high hills
covred with pine and Spruce. Some bottoms along the Shores
covred with cotton timber, and under brush &c. the after part
of the day rainy and foggey. one of the hunters killed a Deer.
we Saw a great nomber of Swan and geese, turkey buzzards
which had white on their wings &c. Capd. Clark killed a black
loon. in the evening we arived at another verry bad rapid or
falls, above which the River is gentle and wide a nomber of
Islands and high rocks &c. one half mile above the falls is a
village of about 10 well looking cabbins covred with bark, Sunk
in the ground like those at the narrows above, only these are
much larger and verry comfortable, and warm. these Savages
were Surprized to See us they Signed to us that they thought
that we had rained down out of the clouds. a nomber of the
party went in the village, and was treated in a friendly manner
gave fish and the best they had to eat &c. we went 15 miles
and Camped between the village and falls. continued raining.
high mountains on each Side of the falls &c. we passed the
mouth of a River came in on the S. Side 50 yds wide.

Thursday 31st.. Oct. 1805.

Some cloudy. we got in readiness to carry our baggage
past the portage, which we expict will be about two miles.
about 9 oClock cleared off pleasant. as the road was Slippery
we concluded to take Some of the canoes down to day. So

we took down two canoes I at a time over high rocks on
rollers, by main Strength and by being in the water which ran
between Sd. Stone & large rocks. we had to hall them in that
way past 2 of the worst rapids then took them a half a mile
below, where we intend loading which will make the portage in
all only about one mile, but a verry bad one. in the evening
2 Indian canoes came to our Camp 5 Indians in them which
were going down the River tradeing with fish &c.

Friday 1st.. Nov. 1805.

a clear morning. the wind high from the N. E. and cold.
So we carryed all our baggage past the portage the Indians
carried their Baggage and canoes past the portage. we drew
out one of the canoes to repair it. then went at taking down
the other two large canoes, and the Small one. towards evening
we got all Safe below the big rapids and Camped. three
canoes arived at the head of the rapids a nomber of men and
women on board of them. they are loaded with pounded fish
and dry Sammon for trade. they Sign to [us] that they are
going down to the white traders to trade their fish for blue
Beeds.

Chapter XVII

FROM THE RAPIDS TO CAPE HORN

XVII. November 2–6, 1805

Saturday 2nd.. Nov. 1805.

a CLEAR morning. we carried a part of the baggage
below the other last rapids one mile further, and ran
over one canoe down the rapid at a time. about 10
oClock A. M. we got all below the last rapids we have any
acct. of from the Savages, then loaded the canoes agn. and about
12 oC. Set out and proceeded on over Several more rapids at
the foot of large Islands. Saw 2 old ancient villages below the
big rapids which was evacuated, the bark taken off of one of
them and put in a pond to Soak. the frames verry large. the
mountains verry high on the Lard. Side and on the S. Side a
little back from the River. proceed. on abt. 4 miles then the
Rir. got Smooth the current verry gentle &c the River wide
and Strait the remdr.. of the day we passed a creek on L. Side
&c. great nomber of Spring runs, and Springs flowing from
the high clifts and mountains, and fell off down 100 feet or
more. high clifts on each Side. the Indians over took us
with their canoes, which they carryed past the big rapids Saw
2 Indians dressed in red Scarlet and one in blue cloth which
appeared new. they had a Musket which was made all of
brass and copper, a powder flask &c. towards evening the
River got more wide could Scarsely perceive any current at all.
the mont.. and clifts cont. all day. went 21 miles and Camped
under a Shelving clift & a green on the Lard. Side. Saw this
day abundance of geese and killed 16 of them. Saw Some
Swan and brants ducks &c. passd. one village this after noon
on the S. Side. passd. Some narrow bottoms high towers of
rocks &c. the country is timbred but mostly Spruce and pine.
Some oak &c.

Sunday 3rd.. Nov. 1805.

a foggy morning. we delayd. untill abt. 9 oClock. Several
men went out a Short distance to hunt. we Shot Several
geese flying over our Camp this morning. one canoe belonging
to the Savages and Several Indians camped with us last
night. a handsom Spring run came in near our Camp. the
fog So thick this morning that we cannot See more than one
hundred yards distance. agreeable to all calculations it cannot
be more than two hundred miles from this to the ocean. one
of the men killd. a large buck Deer. we then Set out abt. 9 oC.
and proceeded on the fog continued So thick that we could
Scarsely See the Shores or Islands passed Several Isld. abt.
noon we halted to dine at the mo. of a River which came in on
the Lard. Side, the mouth of which was filled with quick Sand So
that we could run a pole 6 or 8 feet in it and it emptyd. in at
Several places thro a verry large Sand bar which lay at the mo
we then proceeded on passd the mo. of a Small River on Stard.
the after part of the day clear and pleas [ant]. we Saw a high
round mountain on the Lard. Side which we expect is the Same
we Saw abo. the great falls and the Same that Lieut. Hood gave
an account off (it is nearly covd. with Snow). we proceeded on
the River verry wide better than a mile in general. a nomber
of large Islands &c. towards evening we met Several Indians
in a canoe who were going up the River. they Signed to us
that in two Sleeps we Should See the Ocean vessels and white
people &c. &c. the Country lower and not So mountanous
the River more handsome the current verry gentle. Some
bottoms covred with cotton and pine &c. passd. a nomber of
large Islands. went about 13 miles and Camped on a verry
large & long Island which was mostly prarie and handsome.
a large lake on it. we have Seen a great many Sea otter in
the River ever Since we came to the Big falls. the geese and
Swan ducks and brants &c. we killed Several Swan geese and
brants &c. this day. a nomber of the Savages Camped with
us. at Sunset we got a Small canoe from them and carried it
out to the pond or lake and killed a nomber of large Swan and
geese.

Monday 4th.. Nov. 1805.

Some cloudy. the tide swell[ed] about two feet perpinticular
last night and on the rise this morning. one of the men
went out on the Island and killed a Deer and [a] goose. about
7 oClock we Set out and proceed. on abt. 8 mils.. passd. Several
large Islands covd. with cotton timber & praries the River
wider. we Came to a verry large village on L. Side the
Savages verry nomerous in it, about 35 cabbens. it is but a
niew village. they have a vast quantity of pounded Sammon
in their cabbins. they have 50 canoes at their handsome
village or landing they have cloths of different kinds among
them. the timber Such as cotton and pine is thick in these
bottoms the River is now handsome. we bought 2 dogs
and Some excelent roots which we found nearly as good as
potatoes. we then proceed. on a Short distance and halted to
dine on the Stard. Side. 2 canoe loads of Savages followed us
from the village. they Stole Capt. Clarks pipe Tomahawk
which we could not find. [MS. torn] all the way on [MS.
torn] timbered bottoms on each Side covd. with cotton and oak
timber. a little back from the River the hills is covred with
pine and Spruce from which the Savages git the bark to cover
their villages. passd. Several more verry large villages on each
Side. the Savages are verry numerous. the country appears
to be good, the Soil rich and game tolbr. pleanty. we Saw the
Indians bring in Several deer to day which they had killed
with their bows and arrows. towards evening we met a large
canoe loaded with Indians one of them could curse Some
words in Inglish. they had a Sturgeon on board. they [their]
canoe had images worked on the bow & Stern. they had five
muskets on board. we discovered a high round mountain
some dis[tance] back from the River on Stard. Side which is
called mount Rainy. we are not yet out of Site of Mount
Hood which is covd. with Snow. Saw a great many Sea otter
in the River we went 28 miles to day and Camped after
dark on the Starbord Side. the Swan and geese are verry
pleanty on the River brants also.

Tuesday 5th.. Nov. 1805.

began to rain abt. one oClock last night and rained untill
morn. the morning cloudy. we Set out eairly and proceeded
on verry well the River verry Strait passd. Islands as usal
abor.. 10 miles [MS. torn] the largest village we have [MS. torn]
the S. Side. the cabbens [MS. torn] they had a great no[mber]
[MS. torn] Some of them got in their [canoes and] came out
in the River to See us. they wanted to trade us Elk Skins
for muskets. we proceeded on 20 miles Since we Started this
morng. and halted about 1 oC. to dine on an Isl. Several men
went out a Short time to hunt, and killed one Swan and Several
brants. we then proceeded on. passed one or 2 more villages
had Several Small Showers of rain the Isld. continues all the
way covd. with cotton timber. the bottoms cont. as usal. we
went 31 miles to day and Camped on the Lard. Side where the
pine hills make close to the River. and Some clifts of rocks
on L. Shore. the River about a mile wide. this evening
rainy.

Wednesday 6th.. Nov. 1805.

Several Showers of rain in the course of last night. the
guard had to attend to the canoes to keep them loose as the
tide Ebbs & flows abt. 3 feet pert.ular. a cloudy wet morning.
we Set out eairly and proceeded on. Shortly passed a Small
village on Lard. Side. Some Indians came out in the River to
us with their canoes. we bought Some fresh fish from them,
and bought Some fine roots from a canoe which was going
down the R. with a load trading. at noon we halted to dine
at a large bottom which was covd. with cotton timber on the
S. Side. Several hunters went out abt. one hour and the under
brush So thick that they could not go any distance back. we
proceeded on. passed high clifts on L. S. abt. 100 feet from
the S[urface of ] the water. the hills on each Side are [covered
with] different kinds of pine.

[DISTANCES AND LATITUDES][1]

Remarks of Different places.

             

Latd. of the Gasnage [Gasconade]	38°, 15′, 57″ N
Do." "Granzoe [Grand Osage]	39°, 16′, 23″ N
Do.    Rock pole [Split Rock]	38°, 16′, 00″ N
Do. the two Charottoes	38°, 19′, 00″ N
Do. Decaugh [Kansas]	38°, 31′, 13″ N
River platt	41°, 3′, 19–¾″ N
Camp of the Brareow on Councel Bluffs	41°, 17′, 00″[2]

                                                           

From River Duboice to St Charles	21 Miles by water
" Gasconade	104 " " "
Unto the Osage River	138 " " "
" Mine River	201 " " "
" 2 Charottoes Rivers	226 " " "
" Old Villag of Missuries	246 " " "
" Grand River	254 " " "
" Kanzus River	366 " " "
" 2nd.. Old Village of Kanzeis	433 " " "
" Nadoway River	481 " " "
" Grand Na, mahaw R	511 " " "
" Bald pated prarie	570 " " "
" Mouth of Plate River	632 " " "
" Councel Bluffs	682 " " "
" Little Seeoux River	766 " " "
" Mahars Village	870 " " "
" The Mouth of the Big Souix river	880 "
" the Mouth of the river Jacque	970 Miles
" Grand Calimet Bluffs	980 "
" the River of rapid water	1020 "
" Ceeder Island	1090 "
" River White	1142 "
" the Island in the Big bend or Grand Detorture of the Missourie River	1183 "
Unto Round the Bend 30 miles	1203 Miles
" the ceeder Island above the Big Bend	1235 "
" the Mouth of the Teton River	1275 "
" the 1st. Village of Rickarees	1480 "
" Mouth of the river Bullette [Cannon Ball]	1505 "
" River Chiss-Chetar above the old Village of Mandans	1550 "
" Fort Mandans on the N. Side	1600 ½ Miles.[3]

Lat[it]udes of the Different Remarkable places on the Missourie River.

                                             

of St. Charles	38°, 54′, 39″ N
Gasconade	38°, 44′, 35″ N
Mo. of the Osarge River	38°, 31′, 6″
mo. of the Grand River	38°, 47′, 54 9/10
mo. of the Kanzeis River	39°, 5′, 25″
12[½] ms. above dimond Isl.	39°, 9′, 38″
3 m. b[e]low the 2nd.. Old Village of Kanzeis	39°, 25′, 42″
mo. of the Nordaway	39°, 39′, 22″
mo of the Namahaw	39°, 55′, 56″
Good Isld.	40°, 20′, 12″
Bald Pated Praire	40°, 27′, 6″
White Catfish Camp	41°, 3′, 19″
Council Bluff	41°, 17′, 00″
Mo. of Stone River or the little Seoux	41°, 42′, 34″
On the South Side Whare the late King of the Mahars [was buried]	42°, 1′, 3″N
Fish Camp Neer the Mahars Village Augst 14th 1804	42°, 13′, 41″
Septmb 1 Calimet Bluffs opsite the Sues Lodges whare we met the Nation of the Sues	42°, 53′, 13″
Ceeder Island Louisells Fort	44°, 11′, 33″
the Mouth of the Chien River	44°, 19′, 36″
Mouth of the Water-hoo River	45°, 39′, 5″
the Mouth of the River bullette	46°, 29′, 00″
Fort Mandans on N. Side	47°, 21′, 00″
at the forks of Mariah	47°, 24′, 12″.