University of Virginia Library

LVI. LVI

A NEWSPAPER ACCOUNT

LVI. [From the Boston Centinel, July 13, 1805.]

The party of discovery, under the command of Capt. Lewis and
Clark, left the mouth of the Missouri on the 19th day of May, 1804.
An express with dispatches from their winter quarters, which left them
the 14th April, has returned to St. Louis. By the express, letters were
received from Captain Clark to his correspondents in Kentucky. A
gentleman from Jefferson county, has obligingly favored the Editor of
the Kentucky Gazette with the following account, which he obtained
from one of the men who returned with the express, and from letters
from some of the party. They fortified themselves in November last,
on the bank of the Missouri, 1609 miles from the mouth, by actual
measurement, in latitude 47, 21, N; called then Fort Mandane, after a
nation of Indians, who reside in the neighborhood, and who have been
very friendly to them.—On their passage up, they were delighted with
the beautiful appearance of the country for about 200 leagues, or to the
mouth of the river La Plata, which comes in from the South; after
which, to their winter quarters, it is described not to be so fertile.
The person who brought the dispatches, speaks of the opening made by
the river, being about one mile wide with high cliffs on each side.—
The bed of the river occupies about a fourth part of it, the remainder
of the bottom entirely composed of coarse sand, covered with cotton
wood. This bottom is continually giving way either on one side or
the other, and gaining on the opposite side.—The cliffs in some places
are covered with red cedar, which, with the cotton and a few small
black ash trees, is the only timber described to be in that country.
From the height, there is not a tree or twig to be seen, as far as the
sight can extend, or as they have explored. Out from the river the
land goes off perfectly level, with but few exceptions—and their plains
covered with grass. They passed the mouths of a number of streams,

the most of which had names given by the French. One they have
named Floyd's river, to perpetuate the name of a young man of their
party, named Charles Floyd, who died much regretted on the 20th
August. They represent the Indians to have been friendly, with but a
few exceptions. The Soux are the most numerous, are organized in
bands bearing different names, move about from place to place, from the
banks of the river out to the plains, in pursuit of game and plunder
having no fixed place of residence and in a continual state of warfare.
These were the most troublesome Indians to the party of discovery, as
they expressed a jealousy, least they would supply their enemies higher
up with arms &c.—The higher up they went, the more friendly they
found the savages, and the better armed.—They have a more regular
trade with the North West Company, and the Hudson bay company;
which supplies come to them by the way of Lake Winnepeck. The
Mandanes cultivate corn, which is of a small kind, from whom the
party was supplied during the winter, and their hunters kept them in
abundance of meat.

Buffaloes are said to be in great numbers, and of a large size—two
description of deer are described; those resembling the common kind of
this country being larger, and the tails 18 inches long, and the hair
much longer on their bodies; the other kind having a black tail. Elks
and goats are numerous. The grouse, or praire hen are in plenty; and
before the closing of the river in the fall, water fowls in abundance.
Fish scarce, and those principally of the cat kind. Some of the white
bear-skins, had been brought to the fort by visiting Indians from higher
up; but the party had seen none of those animals. The Indians keep
horses, which are used entirely for the chase, and in war.

From such information as they have received of the country above
there, it is about 600 miles to the great falls, which are made by a ledge
of mountains, called Rocky Mountain, in which it is presumed the
Missouri terminates. At their winter quarters the river is nearly a mile
wide; is equally as muddy as at its mouth, and has continued its rapidity
with very little alteration, as high as they have gone, though it has
became considerably more shallow, so that they will not be able to take
their large barge any higher. From what information they have obtained
of the course of the upper part of the river, the most are at the
northwardly part.—From where they wintered to the falls, is nearly a
south course. The description given by McKenzie of the head waters
of the river, is accurate.

They have sent on to the President of the United States an accurate
journal, with a map of the country through which they passed. Six of

party were sent back—she party now consists of 28 men, exclusive of
the two officers. They have enjoyed perfect health—not one having
been sick, except the unfortunate young man before mentioned, and he
was taken off in a few hours by the cramp in his stomach. The greatest
friendship has existed with the party; and the men who have returned,
speak in the highest terms of the humanity, and uncommon
pains and attention of both Captains, Lewis and Clark, toward the
whole of them; and that they left them in good spirits, fully convinced
that they would winter on the Pacific Ocean.

They were told of six nations of Indians they would have to pass,
before they would arrive at the falls from only one of which they apprehended
any difficulty—they are called the Snake tribe; and reside
high up.

Curiosities of different kinds, live beasts, birds, several boxes of
minerals, a pair of uncommon ram's horns, from the rocky mountains,
scions of a new discovered berry, called the buffaloe berry, &c. have
been brought on by the returned party, and deposited with the commanding
officer at St. Louis, to be sent by him to the President.

We expect in a few days further particulars relative to this interesting
voyage.