University of Virginia Library

LXI. LXI

LEWIS TO JEFFERSON

LXI. [From original MS. in Lewis and Clark journals—Codex S, which consists of leaves cut from
the regular note-books. Apparently the first draft of the document which is found in the
Jefferson Papers (Bureau of Rolls), series 6, vol. II, doc. 103. We have, in the present publication,
preferred to follow this draft.]

Sir: It is with pleasure that I anounce to you the safe arrival of
myself and party at this place on the [blank space in MS.] inst. with
our papers and baggage. no accedent has deprived us of a single
member of our party since I last wrote you from the Mandans in April
1804. In obedience to your orders we have penetrated the Continent
of North America to the Pacific Ocean and suficiently explored the
interior of the country to affirm that we have discovered the most
practicable communication which dose exist across the continent by
means of the navigable branches of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers;
this is by way of the Missouri to the foot of the rapids five miles below
the great falls of that river a distance of 2575 Miles, thence by land
passing the Rocky mountains to the Kooskooske 340 and from thence
by way of the Kooskooske, the S. E. branch of the Columbia and the
latter river to the Ocean of 640 Miles making a total of 3555 Miles.
the Missouri possesses sufficient debth of water as far as is specifyed for
boats of 15 tons burthen, but those of smaller capacity are to be prefered,
the navigation may be deemed safe and good. of 340 Miles land
carriage 200 Miles is along a good road and 140 over tremendious
mountains which for 60 Miles are covered with eternal snows. notwithstanding
the Rocky Mountains thus present a most formidable
barrier to this tract across the continent a passage is practicable from
the last of June to the last of September, and the expence of transportation
over land may be reduced to a mere trifle by means of horses which
can be procured in immence numbers and for the most trivial considerations
from the natives inhabiting the rocky Mountains and Plains of
Columbia West of those Mountains. the Navigation of the Columbia
and it's branches is good from the 1st. of April to the middle of August

when their waters subside and leave their beds obstructed by a great
number of difficult and dangerous shoals and rapids. the Columbia in
every stage of it's water has three portages. the first in decending is a
portage of 1200 paces at the great falls, a pitch of 37 feet 8 inches being
261 Miles from it's mouth, the second of 2 Miles at the long narrows
6 miles below the falls, and the third of 2 miles at the great rapids 65
miles still lower down. the tides flow within 7 miles of these rapids or
183 miles up the Columbia. thus far large sloops might ascend the
river with safety and ships of 300 tons burthen might ascend 125 miles
to the entrance of Multnomah river a large Southen branch of the
Columbia which takes its rise on the confines of Mexico with the
Collorado and Apostles R. from the head of tidewater to the foot of
the long narrows the river would be most advantageously navigated
in large batteauxs, and from thence upwards in light perogues we vew
this passage across the continent as affording immence advantages to the
fir trade but fear that advantages wich it offers as a communication
for the productions of the East Indias to the United States and thence
to Europe will never be found equal on an extensive scale to that by the
way of the Cape of good hope. still we beleive that many articles not
bulky brittle nor of a perishable nature may be conveyed to the
U'. States by this rout with more facility and less expence than by that
at present practiced. That portion of the Continent watered by the
Missouri and all it's branches from the Cheyenne upwards is richer in
beaver and Otter than any country on earth particularly that proportion
of it's subsiduary streams lying within the Rocky mountains; the furs
of all this immence tract of country including such as may be collected
on the upper portion of the river St. Peters, the Assinniboin & Red
rivers may be conveyed to the mouth of the Columbia by the 1st of
August in each year and from thence be shiped to and arrive at Canton
earlier than the furs which are annually shiped from Montreal arrive in
England. The N West Company of Canada were they permited by
the U.S. might also convey their furs collected in the Athebaske on
the Saskashawan and South and West of lake Winnipicque by that
rout within the same period. in the infancy of this trade across the
Continent or during the period that the trading establishments shall be
confined to the branches of the Missouri the men employed in this
trade will be compelled to convey the furs collected in that quarter as
low on the Columbia as tide water in which case they could not return
to the falls of the Missouri untill about the 1st. of October which would
be so late in the season that there would be considerable danger of the
river being obstructed by ice before they could reach St. Louis and the
comodities of the East Indias thus detained untill the following spring.
but this dificulty will vanish when establishments are made on the
Columbia and a sufficient number of men employed at them to convey
the East India commodities to the upper establishment on the
Kooskooske and there exchanging them with the men of the Missouri
for their furs in the begining of July. by these means the furs not
only of the Missouri but those of the Columbia may be shiped to Canton
by the season before mentioned and the comodit[i]es of the East Indias
arrive at St. Louis by the last of September in each Year. altho' the
Columbia dose not as much as the Missouri abound in beaver and
Otter yet it is by no means despicable in this respect and would furnish
a profitable fur trade, in addition to the otter and beaver considerable
quantities of the finest bear of three species affording a great variety of
colours, the Tyger catt, several species of fox, the Martin and Sea Otter
might be procured beside the rackoon and some other animals of an
inferior class of furs. If the government will only aid even on a
limited scale the enterprize of her Citizens I am convinced that we
shall soon derive the benifits of a most lucrative trade from this source.
and in the course of 10 or 12 Years a tour across the Continent by this
rout will be undertaken with as little concern as a voyage across the
Atlantic is at present.

The British N. West company of Canaday have for several years
past carried on a partial trade with the Mandans Minnetares and
Avahaways on the Missouri from their establishments on the Assinniboin
near the entrance of Mouse R. at present I have every reason to
believe that they intend forming an establishment very shortly on the
Missouri near those nations with a view to ingroce the fir trade of that
River. the known enterprize and resou[r]ces of this Company latterly
stre[n]gthened by an union with its powerfull rival the X. Y. Company
have rendered them formidable in that distant part of the continent to
all other traders, and if we are to regard the trade of the missouri as an
object of importance to the U. States the strides of this company towards
that river cannot be too vigelently watched nor too firmly and spedily
opposed by our government. the imbarrasment under which the navigation
of the Missouri at present labours from the unfriendly dispositions
of the Cancezs the several bands of Tetons, Assiniboins and those tribes
that resort the British establishments on the Suskashawan is also a
subject which requires the earliest attention of our government. as I
shall shortly be with you I have deemed it unnecessary here to detail
the several ideas which present themselves to my mind on those subjects
more especially when I consider that a thorough knoledge of the geography

of the country will be absolutely necessary to their being understood,
and leasure has not yet permited us to make but one general Map
of the country which I am unwilling to wrisk by the Mail. As a sketch
of the Most prominent features of our perigrinations since we left the
Mandans may not be uninteresting I shall indeavour to give it to you
by way of letter from this place, where I shall necessarily be detained
for some days in order to settle with and discharge the men who
accompanied me on the voige as well as to prepare for my rout to
Washington. (not sending a party from the falls) We left fort Clatsop
where we wintered on the pacific Ocean the 27th of [Mar]ch last and
arrived at the foot of the Rocky Mts. on the 10th of May here we were
detained untill the 24th of June in consequence of the snow rendering
those mountains impassable, had it not been for this detention I should
have joined you at Montechello in this month agreeably to the promise
made you previous to our departure from the Mandans. I have brought
with me several skins of the Sea Otter 2 skins of the native Sheep of
N. America. 5 skins and skelitons complete of the Bighorn or mountain
ram, and a skin of the mule deer besides the skins of several other
quadrupeds and birds natives of the country through which we have
passed; I have also preserved a pretty extensive collection of pla[n]ts
in Horteo have obtained 10 vocabularies. have also prevailed on the
principal Chief of the Mandans to accompany me to washington, he is
now with my worthy friend and Colleague Capt. C. and myself at this
place, in good health and spirits. With rispect to the exertions and
services rendered by this estimable man Capt. Wm. Clark on this expedicion
I cannot say too much, if sir, any credit be due to the success of
the arduous enterprize in which we have been engaged he is equally with
myself entitled to the consideration of yourself and that of our common
Country. The anxiety which I feel to return once more to the bosom
of my friends is a sufficient guarantee that no time will be expended unnecessarily
in this quarter. the rout by which I purpose travelling is
from hence by Cahokia Vincennes LouisVill Kty. the Craborchard
Abington Fincastle, Stanton and Charlotsville to Washington. any
letters directed to me at Louisvill 10 days after the receipt of this will
most proba[b]ly meet me at that place. I am very anxious to learn
the state of my friends in Albemarle particular[l]y whether my mother
is yet living. I am with every sentiment of esteem your most Obt.
Servt.