University of Virginia Library

Chapter X

FROM THE GREAT FALLS TO THE THREE FORKS

X. July 15–27, 1805

July 15th.. Monday 1805.

rAINED the greater part of last night. a clear morning,
wind high from the N. W. we loaded the 8 canoes.
had Some difficulty to git all the baggage on board.
about 10 oClock A. M. we Set out and proceeded on verry
well. passed a large Creek or Small River on S. S. passed
Several Islands covered with cotton timber willow & Grass
fine bottoms on each Side. beaver pleanty. the current verry
gentle Since we came above the falls, can Scarsely desern it
move as yet. we or Capt. Lewis & Clark & a hunter who
walked on Shore to day killed 2 Elk and 2 Deer & one otter.
we came about 26 miles by water to day, and Camped on the
N. Side.

July 16th.. Tuesday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. Sergt. Ordway went about 4 miles
back for an axe which [he] forgot last evening. we proceeded
on verry well the current begin to git Swifter. we passed a
high round hill a Short distance from the river which at a
distance look like a large fortifycation So we named it Fort
Mountain, lying on N. S. of the river. we passed a large
creek on S. Side 100 yds.. wide. passed Several Isld.. covered
with Timber also bottoms on each Side covered with cotton
Timber, &c. Saw fresh Indian Sign. large Camps back of
Several bottoms. the hunters killed 2 buffalow. we Saw verry
large gangs in the plains under the rockey mountan which we
are now approaching. we Came 20 Miles and Camped at the
Entrence of the rockey mountains.

July 17th.. Wednesday 1805.

Capt. Lewis & 2 men Stayed out all night who went up the
river yesty. a clear morning. we Set out at Sunrise and proceeded
on. about 4 miles came to a hard rapid, ½ a mile
where the mountains make close to the river on each Side.
Capt. Lewis joined us. by the assistance of the towing line and
double manning the canoes we took them all up Safe. passed
a large Spring which run from under the Mountain on S. S.
proceeded on passed verry high Steep rocks & pricipices. these
rocky Mountains are broken & verry uneven & appear to be
nearly a Solid rock. Some parts of them thinly covered with
P.[itch] pine and balsom fer timber &c. Some of these knobs
we allow to be 700 feet high and a Solid rock. Mountain Sheep
on the top of them though they are allmost perpenticular. fine
Springs in these mountains, but a desert part of the Country.
narrow bottoms on the points. Some willow and high grass
with a wide leaf. the current verry rapid, and river crooked,
and only about 100 yards wide. we Came 11 miles this day
and Camped on the N. Side in a bottom a little cotton timber
on it. the musquetoes troublesome. we got pleanty of yallow
currents this day.

July 18th.. Thursday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Saw Some Mountain Sheep
on a verry high precipice which is nearly Steep from the river
up 2 or 3 100 feet. we Set out about Sun rise and proceded
on about 3 miles passed the mouth of a River about 100 yds..
wide at the mouth it came in on the N. Side and run Strong.
one mile further up Capt. Clark killed an Elk Saw a nomber
more. we Saw a flock of Mountain Rams on the Side of the
Mountain on S. Side with verry large horns. Capt. Clark killd.
one. we went near them before they run from us. the mountains
appear not So high ahead, but another range seen a long
distance above which appear much higher than any we See in
this range and Some we allow to be 700 feet high the pitch
& yallow pine continues Scatering along these mountains &c.
Capt. Clark & his Servant york & 2 other men Set out to go
up one or two days travel by land. we proceded on with the

canoes verry well. towards evening we passed a Small River
on N. S. about 60 yds.. wide named [blank space in MS.] River.
the mountains continue but not So high as yesterday. we
came 19 ½ miles and Camped in a narrow bottom on the S.
Side. considerable of flax in this bottom half seded. we took
on board Some deer meat & a Skin which Capt. Clark killed.

July 19th.. Friday 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal, and proceeded
on. Capt. Lewis and one hunter walked on Shore
Shortly killed a large goat or antelope. we took on board
the Skin and Some of the meat. the current verry Swift. the
mountains verry high & covered with pine & bolsom fir trees
many places verry thick. we went on untill about 11 oClock
without breakfast expecting to overtake Capt. Lewis as usal.
the cause we know knot with [out] Some thing has happened.
one of the men killed an otter with his hooked pole. they are
verry pleanty. some beaver also in these narrow bottoms.
proceeded on. Shortly found Capt. Lewis. passed the mouth
of a Small river on the S. Side. in the afternoon we passed a
verry high part of the mountain & Steep up from the River on
each Side about 600 feet from the Surface of the water, which we
name the gates of the rockey mountains. Several fine Springs
come out under these clifs of light couloured rocks. about one
oClock their came Such a Thunder Shower which lasted 1
hour. Saw pine Spruce & ceeder bolsom fer also on the top
& vallies of Sd. Mountains. the bottoms on the points verry
narrow along the Shores. we Came 19 miles this day through
verry rapid water and Camped on the South Side. a light
Sprinkling of rain this evening.

Saturday 20th.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on. at
8 oClock we came to a lower part of the mountains. we found
along the Shores a great quantity of currents of all kinds yallow
red & black they are now ripe, and we eat pleanty of them
the black kind are the most pallatiable. one of the men killed

one Elk, and found the Skin of another which Capt. Clark had
killed and left a note letting us know that he would only go
over the range of these mountains and wait our arival. the
current verry rapid. passed a Small creek on the South Side.
about 2 oClock P. M. we got through this range of mountains.
Saw an other range a head. Saw a smoak in the valley between
Some level plains in the valley. Some timber Scatering along
the River. proceeded on Saw a great nomber of otter along
the Shores. passed a plain on the N. S. in the valley between
2 mountains. this valley is uneaven & hilley. we Came 15
miles to day and Camped at a Spring on the South Side of the
River. the prickley pears verry thick &c.

Sunday 21st.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on. Saw
a nomber of large Swans on the River. Some of the hunters
killed 2 of them. considerable of pine Spruce and bollsom fer
trees along the Shore. we passed a Small Creek on the S. S.
and one on the N. S. the grass in the valley & on the hills
look dry & pearchd. up. the wind high from the N. W. in
the afternoon we passed through a hill & clifts of rocks on
each Side. the River divides in different channels & Spreads
about a mile wide. the Islands verry pleanty. Saw beaver
Sign on them. this valley is Smoth in places. Some timber
along the Shores our hunters on Shore killed a deer. we
Came 15 ½ miles through verry rapid water. the men [of the]
party much fatigued. Camped on a Smooth plain on the
South Side.

Monday 22nd.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. We Set out as usal and proceeded
on passed verry large Islands covered with grass [and] a fiew
trees. a great many currents. we took a narrow channel
behind an Isd. which was about 5 miles through. we began to
think that we had taken an other River, but proved to the
contrary. Some ceeder on Some of these Islands. passd. 2
large Islds.. which [are] level and all prarie or plain. one of the
men killed a Deer in a plain on N.S. about 2 oClock we

halted to dine on the N. S. then went on Capt. Lewis forgot
his Thurmometer which he had hung in a Shade. it Stood to
day at 80 degrees above 0. I went back and got it then went
on after the party. passed Several Islands covered with cotton
& ceeder timber. the River divides in many Channels. I took
a near cut and at night came out ahead of the party, and went
down to the Camp. Capt. Clark had joined them & his party.
they were all well and had Seen a great deal of Indian Sign
along the River and a fire which was burning. we expect the
Snake Indians or a party of them are near this. perhaps they
are alarmed at our firing at the game &c. we Came 17 ½ miles
this day thro a verry rapid current and a pleasant country.
a pleanty of ripe currents &c. along the Shores. our Intrepters
wife knows the country along the River up to hir nation
at the 3 forks. we are now 166 miles from the falls of the
Missourie.

Tuesday 23rd.. July 1805.

Capt. Clark and 3 men Set out in order to go on to the 3
forks, expecting to find the Snake nation, near that place.
Some cloudy. the Musquetoes verry troublesome. I cannot
keep them out of my face at this time. the current verry
rapid. we proceeded on. the river Spreads wide, and full of
Islands. we passed the mouth of a Small River which came in
behind an Island on the South Side. passed livel Smoth large
plains, on each Side. high grass in places & fine Short grass
in general. considerable of good flax now going to Seed. the
thissels also pleanty & high now in blossom. the timber continues
on the Island[s] and along the Shores. the beaver
pleanty. the pine timber continues on the Sides of the hills at
Some distance from the River. our hunter who Stayed out last
night came to us at noon where we delayed to dry the articles
wh[ich] is wet in the canoes. he had killed Several Deer, and
Saved the most of the meat. we hoisted up our flags and proceeded
on the current verry rapid. Came 24 miles this day
and Camped on the South Side. the party in general much
fatigued. we find pleanty of wild Inions or garlick, in these
bottoms & Islands &c. &c.

Wednesday 24th.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded
on. the current verry rapid. we found a goat Skin which
Capt. Clarks party had killed and left on Shore. passed a yallow
or redish clift of rocks on N. S. Saw considerable of
ceeder on the Islands and along the Shores. in the afternoon
we passed a large plain on the N. S. the prickley pear abound
on it. Saw otter and beaver in great abundence. the willow
verry thick on the Islands and along the Shores. the Currents
still abound also the Rabit berrys, which the french call graze
the buff [graisse de bœuf]. the rapid water continues all day.
Some bad rapids which it was with difficulty we passed over
them. Came 19 ½ mls. this day and Camped on the large
plain N.S. one deer killed this day. a white bear Seen.
pleanty of Elk sign. we Saw a great many different kinds of
Snakes along the R[iver].

Thursday 25th.. July 1805.

a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded
on. Saw a large white bear on an Island. Saw a nomber of
otter. Saw a flock of goats or antelopes one of the hunters
killed one of them. we Saw a Camp where Capt. Clark had
Stayed one night. discovered mountains a head which appear
to have Snow on them, if not Snow it must be verry white Clay
or rocks. we eat abundance of red & yallow currents. the
timber and Island [s] not So pleanty as yesterday. large plains
on each Side of the River & looks pleasant and extensive. in
the afternoon we entered in to Some rough rockey hills which
we expect from the Indian account is the commencement of the
Second chain of the rockey mountains, but they do not appear
So high as the first nor So Solid a rock. at the entrence we
found Several bad rockey rapids which we had to pass through
and So Shallow the rocks Show themselves across the River
and appear Shallow all the way across. we double manned
and got up Safe. I cut my foot with the Stone a towing along
the Shore. Saw excelent Springs which ran from under the clifts.
we came 16 miles this day and Camped on the N. S. our hunter
killed one goose, which was all that was killed this day.

Friday 26th.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set out as usal, and proceeded on the
current rapid. Saw Several Springs along the Shores. one of
the men killed a beaver. the pine and ceeder timber pleanty
along the Shores. passed clifts of rocks on each Side but
the hills make off lower. we find that we have not entered the
2nd.. chain of Mountains but can discover verry high white toped
mountains Some distance up the River. the River verry wide
and full of Islands. the current verry rapid in general. passed
over Several verry bad rapids which was difficult to pass. our
hunter on Shore killed 4 Deer. the wind blew hard at 2 oClock
& a light Sprinkling of rain. we found an Indian bow. took
on board a Deer Skin which Capt. Clark had left with a note,
that they had Seen no Indians, but had Seen fresh horse tracks.
considerable of cotton & ceeder timber on the Islands &c.
Came 19 miles this day, and Camped on the South Side of
the River. found Servis berrys &c.

Saturday 27th.. July 1805.

a clear morning. we Set off at Sun rise and proceeded on.
the current as rapid as yesterday. passed clifts of rocks where
was villages of little birds under the Shelving rocks &c. the
hills not So high as below. the currents of different kinds
abound along the Shores. about 9 oClock we Came or arived
at the 3 forks of the Missourie which is in a valley in open
view of the high Mountains which has white Spots on it which
has the appearence of Snow. Saw large flocks of mountain
Sheep or Ibex, and goats or antelopes. the plain on N. Side
of the forks has lately been burned over by the natives. we
went on passed the South fork, and west fork. went a Short
distance up the North fork and Camped on the point which is
a Smoth plain. a large Camp of Indians has been encamped
here Sometime ago. our Intrepters wife was taken prisoner
at this place 3 or 4 years ago by the Gross vauntous Indians.
their came up Showers of rain which lasted untill evening.
Capt. Clark & men returned & Joined us. had found no Indians,
but had Seen fresh Sign of horses. Saw one elegant
horse in the plains which appeared wild. they had been about

40 miles up the middle or west fork then Struck across the
plains to the North fork, and was near the mountains, and informs
us that their is considerable of Snow on them. our hunters
killed in these bottoms in the forks of the Rivers, 6 Deer 3
otter & a musk rat. Capt. Clark & party had killed Several
Deer goats or antelopes and a young bear. this is a verry
pleasant handsome place, fine bottoms of timber &c. we expected
to have found the Snake nation of Indians about this
place, but as they are gone we expect they are gone over the
mountains to the River called the Columbian River, to fish
&c. but perhaps we may find Some this Side of the mountains
yet. we Came only 7 miles to day. at this Camp we
unloaded all the canoes & conclude to rest & refresh ourselves
a day or too &c. Capt. Clark taken Sick.